carry'd one along with him to Vienna where having had the good fortune not to displease the Prince he testify'd to me at his departure that he should be glad to see me at Mantua where he would not forget the services I had done him This presently infus'd into me a desire of seeing Italy especially upon the opportunity that offer'd it self not long after For Monsieur de Sabran the King of France's Envoy to his Imperial Majesty being to go for Venice and desirous of one that understood the German Language to bear him Company I laid hold of the occasion so that in eight days we got to Venice While we stay'd at Venice I took a view to my great satisfaction of that most Celebrated City and in regard it is in many things like to Amsterdam as in Situation Greatness Magnificence Commerce and Concourse of Strangers my being there did but still reinforce my inclination to Travel From Venice I went to Mantua with Monsieur de Sabran where the Prince being glad to see me again gave me my choice of an Ensign or of a place in the Company of the Ordonnance of the Duke his Father I accepted the latter as being glad to be under the Command of the Conde de Guiche who was then Captain At the Siege of Mantua I had like to have been slain but for the goodness of a Cuirass which I had chosen out of the Princes Magazin being hit with two Bullets above and upon the left pap which had enter'd had not my Arms been excellent proof So that after I was recover'd of my Bruises a longer stay at Mantua did not agree with my desire to travel Therefore some time after the Siege was rais'd I took leave of the Prince who gave me an honourable Pass by vertue whereof five or six Horse-men bore me Company back to Venice From Venice I went to Lauretta from Lauretta to Rome from Rome to Naples from whence returning to Rome again I stay'd there ten or twelve days After that I went to see Florence Pisa Ligorn and Genoa from whence I Embark'd for Marseilles From Marseilles I hasted to Paris where I could not stay long for being desirous to see Poland I pass'd once more into Germany through Switzerland after I had tak'n a survey of the principal Towns of the Cantons I went by the Rhine by Water to visit Strasburgh and Brisack thence by Land crossing Suabia I passed through Ulme and Auspurgh to go to Munich There I saw the Magnificent Palace of the Dukes of Bavaria which William the fifth began and which Maximilian his Son finish'd in the heat of the Wars that troubl'd the Empire From thence I went the second time to Norimbergh and Prague and leaving Bohemia I enter'd into Silesia and pass'd the Oder at Bâ—eslaw From Breslaw I went to Cracovia one of the greatest Cities of Europe or rather a Town compos'd of three Cities the ancient Seat of the King of Poland From thence keeping the Vistula upon the left hand I went to Warsaw and saw there the Court of King Sigismund which is a noble and splendid Habitation From Warsaw I return'd to Breslaw taking the Road toward the Lower Silesia designing to visit one of the principal Officers of the Emperours Houshold who was my particular acquaintance But about two Leagues from Glogaw meeting with Colonel Butler a Scotch Gentleman Colonel of one of the Emperours Regiments of Horse who afterwards kill'd Walesteyne in pursuance of the Orders he receiv'd I gave over my first intended journey His Wife was a great lover of the French so that being earnestly oblig'd by both together I could not withstand the testimonies of their kindness There I understood that the Emperour was going to Ratisbone with his Son Ferdinand the Third to Crown him King of the Romans so that I who had seen the Coronations of the Kings of Hungary and Bohemia being desirous to see the third Solemnity also took leave of my Colonel and hasted to Ratisbone At that time arriv'd to Ratisbone several Jewellers one of which came to his end by an accident so tragical that all the whole Court pity'd his untimely fate He was the only Son of one of the riohest Merchants of Europe that liv'd in Frankfort whose Father had sent him with Jewels to sell at the Coronation For fear of being Robb'd he had conveigh'd them before into the hands of a Jew in Ratisbone his Correspondent to be deliver'd to his Son at his coming This young man arriving at Ratisbone went to the Jew who told him that he had receiv'd a small Casket of Jewels from his Father which he might take away when he pleas'd At the same time the Jew invited the young man to drink and carry'd him to a publick House upon the Key of the City where they continu'd 'till about an hour after day was shut in At this time both going out together the Jew led the young man through a private Street where few people pass'd by and there having stabb'd him five or six times in the Belly with a Dagger left him wallowing in his Blood A while after one of the Emperour's Trumpets going that way in the dark stumbl'd at the Legs of the unfortunate youth who still breath'd and fell upon his Body At first feeling his hands wet he thought it had been some drunken fellow that had eas'd his stomach but upon second thoughts imaging it might be some wounded person he ran and call'd the Officers who coming with Lanthorns beheld the tropick spectacle of a young man weltring in his own gore Thereupon the Officers carrying the Body to the same publick House as being next at hand his face was no sooner wash'd but the Woman and Maid of the House knew him to be the same young man that had been there drinking with the Jew not long before But as for the young man he presently expir'd without being able to make the least discovery However the Jew was seiz'd that evening and being seiz'd cofess'd the Crime The Imperial Laws ordain that a Jew for killing a Christian should be hung upon a Gibbet by the Heels and that two fierce Dogs should be hung by him in the same manner to the end that the Dogs in their madness should tear out his Bowels But the Jews made such presents to the Empress that the Sentence was chang'd though the punishment was not much less rigorous For his flesh was torn with red hot Pincers from several parts of his body in several Streets of the City and boyling Lead pour'd into the raw wounds after which he was broken alive upon the wheel at the publick place of Execution Being upon my departure from Ratisbone I met with Father Joseph Resident there for the King of France who knowing me in Paris propos'd to me to go along with the Monsieur the Abbot of Chapes Brother of the Marshal de Aumont and Monsieur St. Liebau who were then intending for Constantinople and so for Palestine I
lik'd the proposition well and immediately put my self into the Society of those two Gentlemen from whom I never separated 'till they departed for Syria from Constantinople But before we left Germany we resolv'd to see the Court of Savony whither we got in a few days By the way we pass'd through Freybergh a small City but well worth seeing for the beauty of the Electors Tombs and most splendid and magnificent both for Materials and Workmanship in all Europe From thence we went and view'd the stately Castle of Augustburgh seated upon a high Mountain wherein among other things there is a great Hall adorn'd from top to bottom with nothing but Horns fasten'd to the Wall among the rest is the Head of a Hare with two Horns sent the Elector by the King of Denmark for a great Rarity In one of the Courts of the Palace stands a Tree so large in Body and spreading out the Branches at so wide a distance that they will cover three hundred sixty five Tables with their shade And that which makes this Tree more wonderful is that it is only Birch that rarely grows to that Immensity Dresde is the Residence of the Elector a little City but a very near one and well fortify'd with a Stone Bridge over the Elbe that parts the Old and New Town The Palace is one of the largest and fairest in Germany But it wants a Piazza before it the principal Gate standing just at the bottom of a narrow Lane From Dresde we went to Prague which was a third time that I saw that great and fair City or rather three Cities together only separated by the Molda that throws it self into the Elbe some five or six Leagues below Having travers'd Bohemia and touch'd upon the corner of Moravia we enter'd Austria and came to Vienna resolving there to Embark with all speed because the Winter came on We stay'd one day at Presburgh to see the great Church and some Relicks which they shew'd us and from thence fell down to Altenburgh Altenburgh is a City and Province belonging to the Count of Arach It was the Childs part of one of the Queens of Hungary who upon her death-bed bequeathed it to one of the Lords of her Court upon condition that he and his Successors should always keep such a number of Peacocks for defect whereof the Territory should revert to the Crown Thence we came to Signet from whence I took a little Boat and hasted to Raab where I did my Devoirs to the Viceroy who was glad to see me and gave noble entertainment to the Messieurs de Chapes and de St. Liebau Here we stay'd eight or ten days for the Basha of Buda's Answer whether he would give liberty to two French Gentlemen to pass with their Train through his Garrison or no which being return'd such as we could desire we Embark'd at Comorra in a sort of Brigantines well fitted for defence and convenience From Vienna to Javarin we laid three days upon the water by reason of the great turnings and windings of the Dunaw Leaving Javarin we lay at Comorra and from Comorra we row'd to Buda in two days For the Road by Land is seldom travell'd in regard that the Frontiers of both Empires are full of Thieves and Boothaylers In fair weather you may go from Bada to Belgrade in less than eight days but we were forc'd to stay longer upon the Water in regard of the Cold weather It is the custom in Hungary that in all Roads little frequented by Strangers not to take any Money of the Traveller For the Burghers lodge and entertain them civilly for which the Burgo Master at the years end repays them out of the publick stock But besides that they are not troubl'd with many passengers Hungary which is one of the best Countries in Europe affords provision at so cheap a rate that to Belgrade it costs us not above two Crowns a day for fourteen people Buda stands upon the right hand of the Danaw about half an hours travelling from the River The Basha being advis'd of our arrival sent his Squire with led Horses and several Slaves in very good Liveries to conduct us to the Town And though we stay'd twelve days before we could speak with him by reason of his being sick at that time yet he allow'd us a fair provision of Mutton Pullets Rice Butter and Bread and two Sequins a day for small expences He was a comely person and of a handsom carriage and at our departure he sent six Caleshes with two Spahi's to conduct us to Belgrade with order to defray our expences which would by no means be accepted Coming to Belgrade we found the Sangiai as rude as we had found the Basha civil before For he made a ridiculous demand of two hundred Ducats a Head and for fifteen days prolong'd the contest But at length I so terrify'd him by threatning to send our Complaints to the Ottaman Port of his ill usage of two Gentlemen kinsmen to the Embassador of France that he was contented with fifty Ducats for all Belgrade is scituated upon a point of Land where two great Rivers the Danaw and the Sava meet and is furnish'd with Wine Bread and all sorts of provisions at a cheap rate From Belgrade we took some Saddle Horses some Coaches for Adrianople as every one lik'd best We pass'd through Sophia a large and well peopl'd City the Metropolis of the ancient Bulgarians and the residence of the Basha of Romeli In it stands a fair Mosquee which hath been a Christian Church built with so much Art that three men may go up to the top of the Steeple and not see one another From Sophia we came to Philippoli between which Town and Adrianople we met with two Troops of Tartars well mounted When they saw us they made a Lane for us to pass through them with a design most certainly to have fall'n upon us since they could not hope to do any good upon us but by surprize and number for they were ill provided of Weapons and we rarely well Arm'd Thereupon we alighted and Barricado'd up our selves with our Chariots In the mean time we sent our Spahi's to the Commander of those Tartars to tell them we would not stir 'till they were gone and that being Souldiers as they were they could not hope for any booty from us The Commander answer'd that he had divided his men in that manner only to do us Honour but since we desir'd they should be gone they requested us but to send them a little Tobacco A boon which we readily granted them and so we pass'd on We came to Adrianople the three and twentieth day after we parted from Belgrade Adrianople takes its name from the Emperour Adrian being formerly call'd Orestes It is pleasantly situated at the mouth of three Rivers that throw themselves into the Archipelago The old Town is not very big but the Turks dayly enlarge the Suburbs being a place which the
Inhabitants whereof are for the most part Greeks These Mountains are very high and extend themselves along the Road for two days journey They are full of several sorts of Trees which are streight and tall like Firr-trees and divided by so many Torrents which it would be hard to pass over were it not for the Bridges that the Grand Visier Kuprigli caus'd to be built In regard the soil of these Mountains is very fat there would be no drawing for the Horses after great Rains or the melting of the Snow had not the same Visier caus'd all the Ways to be Pav'd and Pitch'd even as far as Constantinople A Work of great Charge in regard there is not a Flint in any part of the Mountain and for that the Stone is to be fetch'd a great way off There are abundance of Pigeons as big as Hens and of an excellent tast which not only pleas'd our Appetites but afforded us very good Pastime to shoot them Between the City and the Mountain there is a Plain about two Leagues in length near to which there glides a River that waters it and very much contributes to its fertility It is an excellent Soil and produces all things necessary for Humane Life Upon each side of the way I counted above twenty Churchyards For it is the custom of the Turks to bury near the Highway believing that the Travellers pray for the Souls of the deceas'd Upon every Tomb there is to be seen a Marble Pillar half fix'd in the Earth of which Pillars there are so great a number of various Colours that it is from thence conjectur'd that there were a very great number of Christian Churches in Polia and the parts thereabouts They assur'd me likewise that there were a vast quantity of these Pillars in the Villages up and down in the Mountains which the Turks every day pull down to set upon their Tombs Bendourlour is a Village in the Mountains where there is one Inn. Gerradar is beyond the Mountains where there are two Inns. Cargâ—slar has two Inns and lyes in a good Country Caragalan is a Town where there are two Inns. Cosizar is a Village with one Inn. Tocia is a great City situated upon rising Hills that joyn to very high Mountains Upon the Winter West there appears a fair Champain Country water'd by a Stream that falls into a River of a greater bigness call'd Guselarmac Upon the highest of the smaller Hills toward the East there is a Fortress where a Basha resides and in the Town is one of the fairest Inns upon the Road. The greatest part of the Inhabitants are Christian Greeks who have the advantage to drink excellent Wine with which the Country furnishes them in abundance Agisensalou stands upon a River and there is an Inn and a fair Mosquee in it Ozeman is a little City seated at the foot of a Hill upon which there stands a strong Castle and below two very commodious Inns. The River Guselarmac broad and deep washes the South side of the City which you cross over one of the fairest Bridges that ever was seen It consists of fifteen Arches all of Free-stone and is a Work that shews the Grandeur of the Undertaker Somewhat at a distance from the Bridge stand six Corn-Mills all together with little wooden Bridges to go from one to another This River falls into the Euxin Sea about eight days journey from Ozeman Azilar is a great Town where there are two Inns. Delekiras is a great Village with one Inn. These Four Days Journeys are very dangerous by reason that the Ways are narrow and commodious for Robbers They are very numerous in this Country and therefore understanding that we were way-laid we sent and desir'd a Convoy of the Basha who lent us fifty Horsemen Amasia is a great City built upon an ascent in the hollow of a Mountain It has no prospect but only from the South over a fair Plain The River that runs by it comes from Tocat and throws it self into the Black Sea four days journey from Amasia You cross it over a wooden Bridge so narrow that not above three persons can go a-brest To bring fresh Water to the City they have cut a League into Rocks as hard as Marble which was a prodigious Labour On the West-side upon a high Mountain stands a Fortress where they can come by no other Water than what they preserve in Cisterns when it rains In the middle of the Mountain is a fair Spring and round about it are several Chambers cut out of the Rock where the Dervichs make their abode There are but two Inns and those very bad ones in Amasia But the Soil is good and bears the best Wine and Fruits in all Natolia Ainabachar is the name of an Inn distant a quarter of a League from a great Town where they fetch their Provisions Turcall is a great Town near to a Mountain upon which there stands a Castle The River that comes from Tocatt washes the Houses and we caught excellent Fish in it In that place is another of the fairest Inns upon the Road. From Turcall you may travel in one day to Tocatt where the Road from Smyrna to Ispahan meets Tocat is a good fair City built at the foot of a very high Mountain spreading it self round about a great Rock that stands almost in the midst of the Town upon the top whereof a high Castle commands the neighbouring parts with a good Garrison in it It is very ancient and the remainder of three others that stood there in former times The City is very well inhabited with Turks who are the Lord Controllers Armenians Greeks and Jews The Streets are very narrow but the Houses are indifferent well built and among several Mosquees there is one very magnificent which seems to be newly rear'd There was also a very fair Inn going up which when I last travell'd that way was not quite finish'd There is one thing more particular and more commodious at Tocat which is not to be found in any Inns upon the Road That round about all the Caravansera's in the Town there are Lodgings which they let out to Merchants that desire to be by themselves out of the noise and hurry of the Caravans whiles they stay at Tocat Besides that in those private Lodgings you have your liberty to drink Wine and provide for the rest of your Journey which is not so easily done in the publick Inns where the Turks will have an eye upon the Merchants to draw Money out of their pockets The Christians have twelve Churches at Tocat and there resides an Archbishop that has under him seven Suffragans There are also two Monasteries for Men and two for Women and for fourteen or fifteen Leagues round Tocat the Country is all inhabited by Armenian Christians but very few Greeks being intermix'd among them The greatest part of these Christians are Tradesmen and for the most part Smiths A fair River runs about half a quarter
Churches and of the ancient Buildings of the Armenians by which you may conjecture that it never was very beautiful The Fortress stands upon a high ground with a double Wall square Towers close one to another and a pitiful Moat The Basha resides there but in a very ill House all the Buildings about the Fortress being in a bad condition In the same Enclosure there is a little rising Ground upon which they have rais'd a small Fort wherein the Janisary-Aga lives and where the Basha has no Power When the Grand Signor has a mind to the Head of this Basha or any other considerable person in the Province he sends a Capigi with order to the Janisary to send for the Person to the little Fort where the Execution is presently done One Example hereof I saw in my last Travels into Persia For the Basha of Erzerom not having sent Twelve thousand Men so soon as the Grand Signor requir'd them for his Wars in Candy the same Capigi that brought the Sentence of his Death had the same Order for the Execution of the Basha of Kars and meeting this Capigi upon the Road in a Village upon his return for Constantinople he would needs shew me whether I would or no the Heads of the two Basha's which he was carrying to the Grand Signor in a Bag. Between the first and second Gate of the Fortress are to be seen four and twenty Pieces of Cannon most excellent Guns but lying one upon another without Carriages They lye at Erzerom to be ready upon all occasions when the Grand Signor makes War against the Persians There are in Erzerom several great Inns this City like Tocat being one of the greatest Thoroughfares in Turkie The Country about it bears Wine but not very good and in regard the People are strictly forbid to drink Wine the Merchants are forc'd to buy it very privately for fear it should come to the knowledge of the Cadi Though it be very cold at Erzerom Barley grows there in fourty days and Wheat in sixty which is very remarkable The Customs paid there for the carrying out of the Gold and Silver and upon all other Commodities is very severe Silk that comes out of Persia pays four and twenty Crowns for a Camel's Load which is eight hundred Pounds For in the mountainous Countries a Camel's Load is no more but in the plain and even Countries they make 'em carry above ten hundred weight A Load of Indian Calicutts pays a hundred Crowns but the Loads of Linnen are much heavier than those of Silk As for other Commodities they pay Six per Cent. according to their value From this Stage the Caravan sets forward to a Fortress call'd Hassan Kala where you must pay half a Piaster for every Camel's or Horses Load going from Erzerom to Erivan but returning you pay but half as much Leaving this Fortress you must go and lodge at a Bridge near to a Village which is call'd Choban-Cupri Over this Bridge which is the fairest in the whole Journey you cross two Rivers which there meet one is the Kars and the other is a Stream that falls from a Mountain call'd Binguiel both which disburthen themselves into the Aras The Caravan usually stays a day or two at this Bridge because the Caravan divides it self at this place some continuing on the High-road others taking the Road of Kars as well to avoid fording the Aras several times as the paying a great Duty upon the great Road where they exact four Piasters upon every Camel's Load and two upon every Horse-Load whereas at Kars you are dismiss'd for half so much I went Kars Road twice but it is longer and more troublesom than the other As soon as you leave the Bridge for the first four days you travel over woody Mountains and very desert Countries where you meet but with one Village but coming near Kars the Country is more pleasant and well manur'd bearing all sorts of Grain Kars is in 78 Deg. 40 Min. of Longitude and 42 Deg. 40 Min. of Latitude in a very good Soil The City is very large but thinly peopl'd though Provision be very plentiful and very cheap But the Grand Signor always choosing that place to rendezvouz his Army whenever he intended to recruit it and to lodge his People there which he sent to build Villages the King of Persia has ruin'd all the Country as he did at Sulfa and in many other Frontier places for nine or ten days journey together From Kars to Erivan the Caravan makes it nine days journey and lyes where it can find most convenience there being no certain Stages The first days journey ends at a Monastery and a Village the one no less deserted than the other The next day you come to the Ruines of a great City call'd Anikagaë in the Armenian Language the City of Ani which was the name of an Armenian King that was the Founder of it By the Wall on the East-side runs a rapid Stream that falls from the Mountains of Mingrelia and empties it self into the River of Kars This City was very strongly situated being plac'd in a Mersh where are to be seen the Remains of two Causeys that only led to the Town There are the Ruines of several Monasteries among the rest two that are entire suppos'd to be Royal Foundations From thence to Erivan for two days journey you meet with only two Villages near the last of which you ride by the side of a Hill whither when the Caravan passes by the People bring Horses from several Parts to be sold. The Great Road from the Bridge where the Caravan parts lyes thus Two Leagues from the Bridge on the right hand toward the South lyes a great Mountain which the People of the Country call Mingol In this Mountain there are abundance of Springs and from one side of it falls Euphrates from the other side the River of Kars which empties it self into the Aras fourteen or fifteen Leagues on this side Erivan The Aras which the Ancients call'd Araxes falls from other Mountains Eastward of Mingol which after many windings through the Upper Armenia where it receives many other Rivers that swell its Streams it discharges it self into the Caspian Sea two days journey from Shamaki upon the Frontiers of the ancient Medes The whole Country is inter-cut by the Rivers Aras and Kars and several other Streams that fall into them inhabited by very few but what are Christians those few Mahumetans that live among them being so superstitious that they will not drink the Water of any of those Rivers nor wash in them believing them impure and defil'd by the use which the Christians make of them They have their particular Wells and Cisterns by themselves which they will not suffer a Christian to come near Comasour is the first Village where you lodge after you leave the Bridge of Choban-Kupri going to Erivan Halicarcara is the next Stage to Comasour this is a great Town also
believe it a Sin to suffer Wine to be publickly drank therein The People come in Pilgrimage from all parts of Persia to the Sepucher of Sha-Sefi which together with the vast Trade of Silk makes Ardevil one of the most considerable Cities of all Persia. There are several other Buildings added to the Mosquee wherein he lyes interr'd the Entry whereof faces the Meydan to which it is joyn'd upon the South-side with a large Portal The Gate is chain'd with Chains fasten'd a-cross with great Rings which if any Criminal Offender can but touch and enter into the first Court he is safe for no person can apprehend him This is a large Court yet more in length than breadth without the Wall whereof that looks upon the Market-place several Shops are built for Merchants and Tradesmen Out of this Court you pass into another which is less and pav'd with broad Stones with a Rivulet running through the middle The Entry into it is through a Door fortifi'd with Iron Chains like the former and is made at a corner of the great Court upon the left hand It brings you presently under a Portico where there are fair Balconies rais'd after the fashion of the Country Those Balconies are full of several People either Pilgrims or persons whose Crimes constrain them thither for Sanctuary In that place you must leave your Stick and your Sword before you go any farther and give something besides to a Moullah who is always attending there with Books In that second Court through which the Rivulet glides on the one side are Baths on the other Granaries for Rice and Corn and upon the left hand at the end of the same Court there is a little Door which brings you to a place where the Royal Alms are distributed to the Poor Morning and Evening being just against the King's Kitchin This Gate is cover'd with Plates of Silver and in the Kitchin there are about thirty Ovens contriv'd in the Wall with as many great Caldrons to dress Pilaw and other Food as well for the Poor as for the Officers of the Mosquee While these Alms are distributing the Master-Cook who commands all the rest sets upon a Chair cover'd with Plates of Silver and sees that every thing be done in order He sees to the measuring out the Rice every day for the Kettles and causes the Victuals to be divided in his own sight For there is an excellent Oeconomy in the King's House At the end of the Portico beyond the first Court there are two Gates one beyond another both cover'd with Plates of Silver between those two Gates on the right hand appears a little Mosquee where are the Tombs of several Persian Princes of the Blood Royal. You must have a great care not to tread upon the Thresholds of the Gates for it is a Crime not to be expiated without a severe Punishment From hence through a little I le you come into the Body of the Church richly hung with Tapestry and set about with high Desks where lye a great many Books wherein the Moullahs or Doctors of the Law read continually having Stipends to Officiate in the Mosquee At the end of the Body of the Mosquee is a little Octagonal Monument like the Choir of a Church in the midst whereof stands the Monument of Sha-Sefi It is only of Wood but curiously carv'd and inlaid It exceeds not the height of a Man of an ordinary stature and seems like a great Chest having four Apples of Gold set up at each corner It is cover'd with a Crimson Satin purfl'd with Gold and all the other Tombs that are by it are cover'd with Silks as rich As well in the Choir as in the Body of the Church there are abundance of Lamps some of Gold some of Silver but the biggest of all is of Silver gilded and vermilion'd and neatly engrav'd There are also six great Branches of a curious sort of Wood cover'd with Silver with great Wax Candles in them which are never lighted but at their great Festivals From the Duomo where stands the Tomb of Sha-Sefi you go under a little Vault which encloses another Monument of another King of Persia whose Name I could not learn It looks like another great Chest curiously wrought and cover'd with Satin The Roof of the Mosquee is adorn'd within with a Painting of Gold and Azure a la Moresque on the outside with a fair Varnish of several Colours like the stately Mosquee at Tauris In the adjacent Parts round about Ardeüil are several Monuments worth a Man's sight being very ancient and some which are ruin'd shew by what remains the care which they took to enrich them with curious Workmanship A quarter of a League from the City stands a Mosquee in which are the Tombs of the Father and Mother of Sha-Sefi It is a fair Structure with Gardens and Courts in one of which there is a very clear Fountain where they keep Fish Ardeüil is not only famous as I have said already for the Royal Sepulchers which are in it and for the Pilgrimages which have been made to it from all parts of Persia but the numerous Caravans of Silk which sometimes consist of eight or nine hundred Camels add very much to its Grandeur For being near to Guilan and Shamaqui from whence those vast quantities of Silk come and for that the Road from both those places to Constantinople and Smyrna lyes through this City there is a continual confluence of Merchants and all sorts of Merchandizes are here to be had as well as at Tauris From Ardeüil to Casbin you travel through a good Country for every three or four Leagues you meet with little Rivers that fall from the Northern Mountains and water the Earth The Caravan is usually five days between Ardeüil and Arion between Arion and Taron two between Taron and Casbin two more Half a League on this side Taron you must cross a great River over a stone Bridge and half a League beyond you come to Kalkal Arion is a little City Taron and Kalkal are two great Towns and there are but these three places in all Persia where there grow any Olives or that they make any Oyl Leaving Kalkal you travel over a Plain for three hours at the end whereof is a Way which you cannot get over in less than four hours The way is so bad that the Horses and Mules can hardly get up but for the Camels they must take the lower Road which is also very tedious and full of Stones which the Torrents tumble down and it is three or four Leagues about When you are up the Country is level and you have not above three Leagues to Casbin Casbin lyes in 87 Degrees and 30 Minutes of Longitude and 36 Degrees and 15 Minutes of Latitude It is a great City the Houses whereof are low and ill built except seven or eight which are next to the King's Gardens It has no Walls and indeed the best half of the City is
you will beleive the Armenians they will tell you that there were in Sultanie near eight hundred Churches and Chappels Three Leagues from Sultanie stands an Inn and a League farther a great Town call'd Ija where there is another very commodious Inn and most excellent Wine From thence you go to Habar an ancient City and of a large extent but very much ruin'd inhabited by Armenians for the most part Here for the good Wines sake the Travellers stay to recruit their Bottles From Habar after seven hours travel you come to a Village call'd Partin From Zangan to Partin you reach in two days It stands in a fertil Plain where there are several other Villages It is not above three Leagues broad being enclos'd on each side to the East and West with a row of high Mountains Having pass'd this Plain you come to a barren Country and ill inhabited which lasts all the day till you come to Sexava You pass by the Ruines of a Village where there are but two Houses standing with the Tower of a Mosquee which is very high and slender Then you come to a Mud-wall'd-Inn built some few years since and near to that a Castle call'd Khiara upon the peek of a Hill but very ill built Sexava is a little City in a Soil that bears excellent Nuts The Inns that are there being built of Earth and being but little are very handsom and convenient their number supplying the defect of their smalness From Sexava after seven hours travel you come to a great Inn call'd Idgioup which was formerly a nobler place than now it is standing alone in a Field Three Leagues from thence you meet with another spacious Inn call'd Cochkeria and four hours farther you come to the Inn Denghé where the two Roads meet which I spake of in the foregoing Chapter From Denghé to Kom are three days journey over a barren dry and desert Country where there is no Water but Cistem-water except in some very few places where it is very good Four Leagues from Denghé is a fair Inn and three Leagues farther stands another about a Mile from a Village to the South where there grows excellent good Wine white and red From this last Inn to Sava is not above three hours travel with the Caravan Sava is a good City in a fertil Plain where there are several Villages The greatest Trade of the Town is in little grey Lamb-skins the curl whereof is very neat of which they make Furrs Two or three Leagues beyond Sava the Country is very well manur'd and after you have forded a River half a League from the City after two hours travel you come to one of the fairest Inns in all Persia which was finish'd when I went last to Ispahan From thence to Kom it is about seven or eight hours journey through a dry and sandy Road but half a League on this side Kom the Land is very good and fruitful Kom is one of the great Cities of Persia in a fat Country abounding in Rice There grow also excellent Fruits particularly large and excellent Granates The Walls are only of Earth with little Towers close one to another and the Houses being only of Earth are never the handsomer within-side At the entry into the Town you must cross a River over a stone Bridge and then turning to the right hand over a fair Key you come to an Inn very well built and very convenient That which is most remarkable in Kom is a large Mosquee no less in veneration among the Persians than the Mosquee of Ardeüil There it is that you may see the Sepulchers of Sha-Sefi and Sha-Abas the Second as also the Tomb of Sidi-Fatima the Daughter of Iman-Hoven who was the Son of Haly and Fatima-Zuhra the Daughter of Mahomet The great Gate of the Mosquee answers to a Piazza more long than broad where stands an Inn and certain Shops which without-side are somewhat beautiful One of the sides of the Piazza is clos'd up with a low Wall over which appears the Shore and a River which you cross at the end of the Piazza Over the great Portal of the Mosquee stands an Inscription in Letters of Gold in the Praise of Sha-Abas the Second The first place that you enter into is a Court of more length than breadth which may be term'd a Garden in regard that on each side of the Alley in the middle which is pav'd there are several square Beds of Flowers yellow Jasmin and other Plants which are rail'd in by a Rail that runs all the length of the Alley on each side It is not an easie thing for the Christians to get in to this Court especially such whose Habits and Aspect they do not like But as I cloth'd and carry'd my self I never was deny'd entrance into any place either in Persia or India In this first Court on the left hand as you enter are little Chambers where they that receive the Alms which by the Foundation of the Mosquee are to be distributed every day come and eat their proportion and then go their ways Those Chambers serve as an Asylum to those that cannot pay their Debts as at the Mosquee of Ardeüil Neither are these Priviledg'd places like ours where they that retire must live at their own Charge For in Persia they are fed at the Expence of the Mosquee and being in that manner freed from Care their Friends more easily bring their Creditors to Composition Out of the first Court you pass into a second which is larger and all pav'd and from that into a third which is square and rais'd like a Terrass You enter into it through a large Gate at the end of an open Passage where stand the Lodgings of the Moullah's Out of that Court by an ascent of Brickwork of ten or twelve Steps you enter into a fair Court which is also rais'd like a Terrass in the midst whereof is a fair Fountain It is continually fill'd by little Pipes of Water which run into it and is empty'd by others that carry the Water into several parts of the whole Enclosure There are some Buildings in this Court but one of the sides of it is taken up with the Front of the Mosquee which is no displeasing Structure There are three large Gates belong to it very well expanded according to the mode of the Country with a Brick-wall before about the height of a Man with Holes in it for Light made like a Lozange The Threshold of the middle Gate is cover'd with a plate of Silver and between these three Gates and that of the Duomo are several Doctors that hold Books in their hands and read perpetually This Mosquee is Octagonal and at every angle is a small wooden Door of Walnut-tree varnish'd with grey and yellow The Tomb of Sidi-Fatima is at the farther part of the Mosquee there being only room for one Man to pass between the Wall and the Tomb. It is encompass'd with a large Silver Grate sixteen
threats or by rewards The eleventh after a Journey of ten hours we came to Ourfa where the Caravan usually stays eight or ten days for here it is that they live that hire the Horses and the Mules who have always some business in this place We lay at an Inn three or four hundred paces distant from the City toward the North. When the Inn is full the rest retire into the Grotto's which are near at hand and are very good quarters Here the Toll-gatherer presently comes and counts the Bales without op'ning them They that carry any Sacks must pay for half a Load if not he op'ns the Sack to see if there be any Merchandise therein for then the Merchant must pay the whole duty Ourfa is the Capital City of Mesopotamia built as they say in the same place where Abraham liv'd and where stood the ancient Edessa where the people of the Country report that King Abagarus generally kept his Court. There are still to be seen the ruines of a Castle from whence they add that the same King sent to CHRIST for his Picture and offer'd him his Kingdom and his people to defend him against the Jews whom he understood to be his Enemies The Chronicles of the Armenians report that Abagarus was their Country-man and that in his Reign they began to be Christians and to be Baptiz'd by the hands of an Apostle whom CHRIST sent to that Prince after his Resurrection * Neither is this Castle yet so far ruin'd but that there is still to be seen a spacious Hall and three or four handsom Rooms with some relicks of Mosaick work I was curious to see what ever was remarkable in this City And first they led me to a large Fountain which resembles a Fish-pond the Spring whereof is under the Foundations of the principal Mosquèe which was built in the honour of Abraham The Christians of the Country say that it was in that place where he pray'd before he went about to Sacrifice his Son Isaac and that two Springs of Water arose from the two places where he rested his knees which now feed the large Fountain I have made mention of It is pav'd with Free-stone and so full of fish that if you throw them in a little Bread they will follow you from place to place as you walk by the side of the Pond There is no medling with them for the Turks have a great veneration for those Fish which they call Abraham's Fish Besides that the place about the Fountain where the water wid'ns it self to water all the City is cover'd with very fair Carpets for about twenty paces in bredth This Fountain at length falls into a little River that runs by the Walls As for the Grotto where the two Springs rise there is no going into it before you have pull'd off your Shooes and it is a great favour for a Christian to see it such a favour as cost me six Piasters I also saw the Church under the portal whereof they say St. Alexis liv'd seventeen years a private life It stands in the middle of a Church-yard in the highest part of the Town in the possession of the Armenians But their principal Church is about a quarter of an hours walking from the City built by St. Ephren who is there buried The Monastery stands yet entire enclos'd with fair Walls In the Church I saw a large Bible in Armenian Characters The Sepulchre of St. Ephren is in a Cave at the foot of the Mountain to which there also belongs a Chappel where they keep three or four Lamps continually burning There are other Grotto's up and down the Mountain where are to be seen very ancient Sepulchers of the Christians The City of Ourfa is seated in a good soil very well manur'd which extends it self out of sight toward the East There are several pleasant Gardens near the walls water'd by little Channels brought thither by Art The soil produces good Wine so that a man may live as well at Ourfa as in any part of Turkie While I stay'd there I kill'd abundance of Feldfares in those Gardens and indeed there is great store of wild Fowl all the Country over The Walls of the City are of Freestone with Battlements and Towers but within the houses are small ill built and ruinous And there are several void spaces in the City which makes Ourfa to look rather like a Desert than a Metropolis The City is Govern'd by a Basha who has under him a hundred and fifty Janizaries and six hundred Spahi's standing more in need of Cavalry than Infantry by reason of the Incursions of the Arabians especially in Harvest time In short Ourfa is the place were they dress such great quantities of Cordovan Skins by reason of the waters particular to the Country which give them that peculiar beauty The Yellow Skins are drest at Ourfa the Blew at Tocat and the red Rat Diarbequir The twentieth of March we set out of Ourfa and after a Journey of six hours we lay at a pittiful Village where the Inn was fal'n all to decay There is a Fountain of excellent water by it which is all the convenience of the place for there is no Provision to be had The twenty-first we travel'd nine hours and came to lye near several Caverns which are very deep at the entry whereof there are little Rooms which are suppos'd to be the places where the People of the Country liv'd that fed their Cattel thereabouts There is also Rain-Water to be had in some of the Concavities of the Rock Half this days journey you must pass over Rocks where it is almost impossible and very dangerous to keep your Horses back The twenty-second having travel'd eleven hours we lodg'd near a Cavern having forded a River that runs at the foot of it There are two great Grotto's on each side where Travellers take up their Quarters and whither the Natives of the Country bring Provisions both for Horse and Man The Toll-gatherers coming from a Fort about three Leagues distant from these Caverns here exact two Piasters and a half for every Horse and Mules Load and search your Sacks to see if there be no Merchantable Goods therein About half the way of this days journey you meet with a City quite deserted by the Inhabitants and about an hours march after that with Tombs of Stone in the middle whereof stands a Cross with Armenian Characters The twenty-third we travel'd elev'n hours and lay at Dadacardin This appears to have been a great Town but is all ruin'd nor is there any thing remaining but a long Stone-Bridge very well built under which runs a River that is very broad when it overflows The People of the Country have no other Habitations than the Hollows of Rocks yet they bring to the Travellers Hens Butter Cheese and other Provisions which they sell very cheap The twenty-fourth we travel'd nine hours and lay at a place call'd Cara built upon a Hill The Caravan lay
Merchants that were to go along with the Caravan The way which we took was not the usual Road to Persia but it was a way wherein there were less Duties to be paid and besides it was a short cut the Caravan making but fifty-eight days Journey between Aleppo and Ispahan From the very banks of the River to the place where we Lodg'd that Evening we saw nothing but continu'd Ruines which makes me believe it was the place where the ancient Nineveh stood We stay'd two days near the Mosquée where according to the tradition of the Turks Jonas was bury'd and made choice of a Curd or Assyrian for our Caravan-Basbi though the people are generally Thieves and must be carefully look'd after But it was a piece of Policy because we were to cross the ancient Assyria now call'd Curdistan the Language of which Country is a particular Speech In the two first days Journey we cross'd two small Rivers that fall from the Mountains and empty themselves into Tigris Our first Journey was through a plain Country all along by the side of a little River and the second Evening we lodg'd by the side of a great River that falls from the Mountains toward the North and running to the South discharges it self into Tigris It is call'd Bohrus being a very rapid Stream full of Fish but more especially excellent Trouts The Caravan was two days passing that River by reason there were no Boats For the people are forc'd to tye long Perches four or five together one upon another which the Natives call a Kilet They make it four-square and put underneath it about a hundred Goat-Skins full of wind to the end the Kilet may not touch the water Besides the Merchant must be careful to spread good store of thick Felts over the Kilet of which he must be provided to keep off the Water least the Bales that sink the Kilet should take wet At the four corners are four Perches that serve for Oars though they avail but little against the force of the Tide so that you must be forc'd to hale the Kilet four or five hundred Paces a' this side up the River and then row down the Stream to the place where you intend to Land the Goods When the Goods are Landed the men are forc'd again to draw the Kilet by main strength out of the water to take away the Goat-Skins which are then to be lad'n upon the Mules appointed to carry them As for the Horses Mules and Asses as well those that carri'd the Goods as those upon which the Men ride so soon as the Herds-men thereabout see a Caravan coming they stock to the River-side Those people that wear nothing but a course piece of Linnen or a Goat-skin to cover their nakedness take off their Cloaths and wind them about their Heads like a Turbant Then every one tyes a Goat-skin blow'd up under his Stomach and then two or three of the most expert mounting the same number of the best Horses which are bridl'd put themselves first into the Water while others follow them swimming and drive the Horses before them holding the Beast by the Tayl with one Hand and switching him with the other If they find any Horse or Ass that is too weak they tye a Goat-skin under his Belly to help him Considering which difficulties it cannot take up less time than I have mention'd to get over a Caravan of five or six hundred Horses The Caravan being thus got over for two or three days has but a very bad Road. The first days journey the Horses were continually in the Water up to the mid-leg and the second and part of the third we travel'd through a very desert Country where we met with very little food for our Horses and only a few Brakes to boyl our Rice Having got over this bad way we came to a River call'd the great Zarbe over which we pass'd upon a Stone-Bridge of nine Arches They report that this Bridge was built by Alexander the Great in his March against Darius A quarter of a League to the South-East two Rivers meet which empty themselves into Tigris Leaving the Bridge we came to a Town call'd Sherazoul built upon a rising Ground upon three Redoubts There resides a Basha who must be brib'd with a small Present to let the Caravan pass we lay by the Banks of a River and staid there two days From thence we travel'd one days journey over dry Mountains not finding any Water But the next day we came into a pleasant Plain stor'd with Fruit-trees This was the Plain of Arbele where Alexander defeated Darius containing about fifteen Leagues in all It is water'd with several Rivulets and in the middle of the Mountain rises a little Hill about half a League in circuit It is all over cover'd with the fairest Oaks that ever were seen and on the top are the Ruines of a Castle that seems to have been a sumptuous Structure The Country-people say that Darius staid there while his Captains gave Battel to Alexander Three Leagues from thence near a great Mountain toward the North are to be seen the Ruines of another Castle and several Houses where they add that Darius secur'd some of his Wives when he lost the Battel This Castle is seated in a most lovely Prospect At the foot of the Mountain rises a Spring which a quarter of a League off swells into a River that bears good big Boats It runs winding about the Mountains to the Southward so that two days journey from the Hill you cross it near a Town call'd Sherazoul over a fair Stone-Bridge of nine Arches whereof the Great Sha-Abas caus'd three to be brok'n down after he had tak'n Bagdat This City of Sherazoul is built after another manner than any other of the Cities in those parts being all cut out of a steep Rock for a quarter of a League together so that you must go up to the Houses by Stairs of fifteen or twenty steps sometimes more sometimes less according to the situation of the place The people have no other Doors to their Houses than only a thin round Stone like a Mill-stone which they will roll away when they go in or out the sides of the Wall being so cut as to receive the Stone like a Case being level with the Rock The tops of their Houses are like Niches in the Mountain where the Inhabitants have contriv'd Caves to keep their Cattel in So that we judg'd it to be built for a place of safety to secure the Inhabitants from the Incursions of the Arabians and Bedouins of Mesopotamia We came to Sherazoul upon Easter-Eve and staid there three days to refresh our selves after a Lent which we had kept very sparingly Here I found certain Springs that rose up in large Bubbles which after I had mix'd with two Glasses of Wine and drank up I found to have a Purgative quality having a kind of Mineral tast These Springs boyl up near the side of
and came to lye at a Town call'd Tegrit upon Mesopotamia side There belongs to the Town a Castle half ruin'd and yet there are still some handsom Chambers to be seen Upon the North and East the River serves for a Moat but upon the West and South it has a deep Artificial one pav'd with Free-stone The Arabians say that formerly it was the strongest place in all Mesopotamia though it be commanded by two Hills not far from it The Christians dwelt half a League from the City where the Ruines of a Church and part of a Steeple are still to be seen whereby it appears to have been a considerable Pile of Building The twenty-first after we had row'd three hours we met with a Town upon Assyria side which was call'd Amet-el-tour from the name of a person that lyes inter'd in a Monastery whom the people account to be a Saint Therefore is it a place of great Devotion among them so that great numbers of Votaries go thither in private That day we were twelve hours upon the Water and lay upon the Banks of the River The twenty-second having been upon the Water two hours we met with a great Channel cut out of Tigris to water the Lands which runs up as far as just over-against Bagdat and there falls into the Tigris again Coming thither we landed upon Chaldea side by reason that there were certain Turks with us who would of necessity perform their Devotions at a place call'd Samà tra In the same there is a Mosquee not above half a League from the River to which many Mahometans pay their Devoirs especially Indians and Tartars who believe forty of their Prophets to be buried there When they knew us to be Christians they would not permit us no not for Money to set our Feet in it About five hundred Paces from the Mosquee stands a Tower very ingeniously built There are two Stair-cases without that belong to it made twirling like a Periwinkle-shell one of which Stair-cases was built deeper into the Tower than the other I would have taken better notice of it could I have been permitted to have come nearer it Only I observ'd that it was made of Brick and that it seems to be very ancient Half a League from thence appear three great Portals that look as if they had been the Gates of some great Palace And indeed it is not improbable but that there was some great City thereabouts for for three Leagues all along the River there is nothing to be seen but Ruines We were twelve hours that day upon the Water and lay upon the Banks of Tigris according to custom The twenty-third we were twenty hours upon the Water and all the day long we saw nothing upon either side of the River but pitiful Hutts made of the Branches of Palm-trees where live certain poor people that turn the Wheels by means whereof they water the neighbouring Grounds We also met that day with a River call'd Odoine that falls into Tigris upon the side of the ancient Chaldea The twenty-fourth we were twenty-two hours upon the Water together never stirring off from the Kilet The reason is because the Merchants having tak'n out of the Kilet all their Money and the best part of their Merchandizes give them to the Country-people who carry them very faithfully to Bagdat whither they go to sell their own Commodities which the Merchants do to avoid the payment of Five in the Hundred in the City I trusted them also with several things of which they gave me a very good account as they did to others being contented with a small matter for their pains The twenty-fifth about four of the Clock in the Morning we arriv'd at Bagdat which is as usually call'd Babylon They open the Gates by six and then the Customers come to take an account of the Merchandize and to search the Merchants themselves If they find nothing about 'em they let the Merchants go but if they have any thing about 'em which ought to pay they carry the persons to the Custom-House where they write down the quantity of the Goods and let them go All the Merchandize upon the Kilet is carry'd thither also which the Merchant fetches away again in two or three days paying the Custom All which is done in very great order without any noise or disturbance in the least Though Bagdat usually bear the name of Babylon yet it is at a great distance from the ancient Babylon whereof in due place But now for Bagdat as it stands at this day Bagdat is a City seated upon the River of Tigris on the Coast of Persia and separated from Mesopotamia by the same River It lyes in 33 Deg. 15 Min. of Elevation The Chronicles of the Arabians report that it was built by one of their Califfs nam'd Almansour in the year of the Hegyra of Mahomet 145 and of Christianity 762 or thereabouts They call it Dar-al-sani that is the House of Peace Some say it deriv'd its name from a Hermitage that stood in a Meadow where the City now stands whence it was call'd Bagdat or a Garden bequeath'd About forty years ago digging up the Foundations of an Inn the Work-men found a Body entire habited like a Bishop with a Censor and Incense by him And in the same place several Cells of Religious Houses shew'd themselves which makes it very probable that where Bagdat is built there was anciently a great Monastery with several Houses where the Christians inhabited The City is about fifteen hundred Paces long and sev'n or eight hundred broad and cannot possibly be above three Miles in circuit The Walls are of Brick and terrass'd in some places with large Towers like Bastions Upon all these Towers there are mounted about sixty pieces of Cannon the biggest whereof carries not above a five or six Pound Ball. The Moats are wide and about five or six Fathom deep There are not above four Gates three upon the Land-side and one upon the River which you must cross over a Bridge of thirty-three Boats distant one from the other about the bredth of one Boat The Castle is in the City near to one of the Gates call'd El-Maazan upon the North side It is partly built upon the River encompass'd only with a single Wall terrass'd in some places and adorn'd with little Towers upon which are planted about a hundred and fifty Cannon but without Carriages The Moat is narrow and not above two or three Fathom deep neither is there any Draw-Bridge before the Gate The Garrison consists of three hundred Janizaries commanded by an Aga. The City is govern'd by a Basha who is generally a Vizier His House is upon the side of the River making a fair shew and he has alway ready at command six or sev'n hundred Horse There is also an Aga that commands three or four hundred Spahi's They have besides another sort of Cavalry which is call'd Ginguliler that is to say Men of Courage commanded by two Aga's
shall have it The twenty-sixth of September we departed from Erivan and the ninth of November we came to Tauris taking the ordinary Road. At Erivan two of my Servants the one a Watch-maker the other a Gold-smith dy'd I left them sick there but caus'd them to be buried in the Church-yard belonging to the Armenians One of them dy'd in fifteen days of a Gangrene which eat out his Mouth and Throat being the Disease of the Country Though had the Armenians known that one of them had been a Protestant they would never have allow'd him to have been bury'd in their Church-yard Here observe the exact justice wherewith the Persians preserve the Goods of Strangers For the Civil Judge hearing of the death of the Watch-maker caus'd his Chamber to be seal'd up to the end the Goods might be preserv'd for the kindred of the deceas'd if they came to demand them I return'd to Tauris a twelve-month after and found the Chamber close seal'd up We staid twelve days at Tauris during which time I resolv'd to attend the Kan of Shamaqui a frontler Town of Persia toward the Caspian Sea but I found him not there in regard it was Harvest season at what time he goes to gather the King's and his own Duties Two days journey on this side Shamaqui you pass the Aras and for two days journey you travel through a Country all planted with white Mulberry-Trees the Inhabitants being all Silk-Weavers Before you come to the City you must cross over several Hills But I think I should rather have call'd it a great Town where there was nothing remarkable but a fair Castle which the Kan built himself I speak of the time past For as I return'd from this present Voyage of which I now write when I came to Tauris I understood that there had happen'd such a terrible Earthquake in the Town as had laid all the Houses in a heap none escaping that dismal subversion but only one Watch-maker of Geneva and one more who was a Camel-driver I had several times design'd to return into France through Muscovy but I durst never adventure being certainly inform'd that the Muscovite never permitted any person to go out of Muscovy into Persia nor to come out of Persia into Muscovy So that it was by particular connivence that that favour was granted to the Duke of Holstein's Ambassadors This last time I was resolv'd to have try'd whether I could have open'd a Passage from Persia through Muscovy into France but the Ruine of Shamaqui deterr'd me We departed from Tauris the twenty-second of November from whence to Cashan we met with nothing considerable but only one of the Muscovite Ambassadors upon his return into his own Country with a small Retinue of sixty his Companion dying at Ispahan Upon Sunday the fourteenth of December taking Horse by three of the Clock in the morning the Ice bearing very well we came to Ispahan about noon but in regard it was slippery before day and very plashy after the Sun was up the Journey was both tedious and troublesom CHAP. III. The Road from Aleppo to Tauris through Diarbequir and Van. THere are two Roads more remaining to be describ'd one through the North part of Turkie the other through the South The first through Diarbequir and Van and so to Tauris the second through Anna and the small Desert leading to Bagdat I will describe the first of these Roads and make a skip at the first leap to Bi r whither I have already led you in the Road from Aleppo From Bi r or Beri you travel all along the River Euphrates to Cachemé From Cachemé you come to Milesara where you pay the Customs of Oursa when you do not pass through the City which amounts to four Piasters for every Horse-load From Milesara you come to the River Arzlan-chaye or the Lion River by reason of the rapidity of the Stream which falls into Euphrates From Arzlan-chaye you go to Seuerak This is a City water'd by a River that also falls into Euphrates It is environ'd with a great Plain to the North the West and South The way which the Horses Mules and Camels keep is cut through the Rock like a Channel two Foot deep where you must also pay half a Piaster for every Horse-load From Seuerak you come to Bogazi where there are two Wells but not a House near and where the Caravan usually lodges From Bogazi you come to Deguirman-Bogazi and from Deguirman-Bogazi to Mirzatapa where there is only an Inn. From Mirzatapa you come to Diarbequir which the Turks call Car-emu Diarbequir is a City situated upon a rising ground on the right side of Tigris which in that place forms a Half-moon the descent from the Walls to the River being very steep It is encompass'd with a double Wall the outward Wall being strengthned with sixty-two Towers which they report were built in Honour of the sixty two Disciples of JESUS CHRIST The City has but three Gates over one of which there is an Inscription in Greek and Latin that makes mention of one Constantine There are in it two or three fair Piazza's and a magnificent Mosquee which was formerly a Christian Church It is surrounded with very decent Charnel-houses near to which the Moullah's Dervi's Book-sellers and Stationers do live together with all those other people that concern the Law About a League from the City there is a Channel cut out of Tigris that brings the Water to the City And in this Water are all the red Marroquins wash'd that are made at Diarbequir surpassing in colour'all others in the East which Manufacture employs a fourth part of the Inhabitants of the City The Soil is very good and yields according to expectation there is excellent Bread and very good Wine nor is there any better Provision to be had in any part of Persia more especially there is a sort of Pigeons which in goodness excel all the several kinds that we have in Europe The City is very well peopl'd and it is thought there are in it above twenty thousand Christians The two thirds are Armenians the rest Nestorians with some few Jacobites There are also some few Capuchins that have no House of their own but are forc'd to lodg◠in an Inn. The Basha of Diarbequir is one of the Viziers of the Empire He has but an inconsiderable Infantry which is not much requisite in that Country the Curds and Arabs which infest that Country being all Horse-men But he is strong in Cavalry being able to bring above twenty thousand Horse into the Field A quarter of an hours riding on this side Diarbequir there is a great Town with a large Inn where the Caravans that go and come from Persia rather choose to lye than at Diarbequir in regard that in the City-Inns they pay three or four Piasters for every Chamber but in the Country-Inns there is nothing demanded At Diarbequir you cross the Tigris which is always fordable unless when the Snow
min. Lat. In a Country abounding in all forts of Cattel Zenjon 73 deg 36 min. Long. 36 deg 5 min. Lat. Famous for its antiquity and formerly the Persian University Zertah 79 deg 30 min. Long. 32 deg 30 min. Lat. The biggest City in the Province of Belad-Ciston abounding in Wine and Shell-fruit Zour 70 deg 20 min. Long. 35 deg 32 min. Lat. A City in the same Province Zouzen 85 deg 15 min. Long. 35 deg 39 min. Lat. In the Province of Mazandran Zourend 73 deg 40 min. Long. 31 deg 15 min. Lat. In the Province of Kerman where there is great store of curious Potters ware where also grows the Root Hanna with the juice whereof the Persians dye their Nails and the Breasts and Tails of their Horses The End of the Third BOOK THE FOURTH BOOK OF THE TRAVELS OF MONSIEUR TAVERNIER BEING A DESCRIPTION OF PERSIA CHAP. I. Of the Extent of PERSIA and its division into Provinces PERSIA according to the present State of the Empire to the North is bounded by the Caspian Sea Southward by the Ocean Eastward it joyns to the Territories of the Great Mogul Westward to the Dominions of the Grand Signor the two Empires being parted by the Rivers Tigris and Euphrates But that you may the better understand the full extent of the Dominions of the Persian King you are to know That this great Monarch besides that Tract of Ground which is properly call'd Persia possesses a vast part of the ancient Assyria and the great Armenia the ancient Kingdoms of the Parthians and Medes the Kingdom of Lar the Kingdom of Ormus and all Eastward of Persia beyond Candahar almost as far as the Kingdom of Scindi But because those Europeans that have Travel'd before me either were not so curious or had not perhaps the opportunity to learn the true number of the Provinces that compose the whole Continent of Persia I have undertak'n though the Persians themselves are ignorant enough to give the best account I can finding it necessary for the better satisfaction of the Reader to take some notice of the Names of Places according to the ancient Geography The first is the Great Armenia which our Maps without any ground or reason at all call Turcomannia in regard they might have more properly call'd it Ermonick in general since the Inhabitants are the greatest part Armenians That part whereof which is situated between the two Rivers of Araxes and Cyrus at this day call'd Aras and Kur by the Natives is call'd Iran or Cara-bag being one of the most beautiful and richest pieces of Land in all Persia the principal Cities of which are Erivan Nacksivan Zulpha and Van. The second is Diarbeck formerly Mesopotamia between Euphrates and Tigris the chief Cities whereof are Bi r Car-Emir or Diarbequir Ourfa Moussul Geziré Merdin c. The third is Curdistan formerly Assyria extending all along the East-side of the River Tigris from the Lake Van to the Frontiers of Bagdat the principal Cities are Niniveh Sherisoul Amadié Sneirne Betlis and Salmastre The fourth is Hierak-Arabi otherwise the Country of Babylon or Chaldea the principal Cities whereof are Felougia upon Euphrates Bagdat upon Tigris Mershed-Ali Gourno and Balsara and in the Country of Bourous Sharaban Eronnabat c. The fifth is Hierak-Agemi or the ancient Parthia the principal Cities whereof are Hispahan Toushercan Hamadan Cashan Kan and Casbin and perhaps Yesd if it be not rather in Kerman or Sigistan The sixth contains Shirvan all along the Caspian Sea where stand the Cities of * Derbent in the Persian Tongue signifies ae Strait Gate and Demir-Capi in the Turkish ae Gate of Iron near to which place were the ancient Caspian Gates or Caspiae Pylae of the Ancients Derbent or Demir-Capi Baku and Shamaki and the Province of Edzerbaijan wherein stand the Cities of Tauris Ardevil and Sultany Which two Provinces comprehend the ancient Media within a very little extending to the very Shoar of the Caspan Sea The seventh contains Kylan and Mazandran lying likewise upon the Caspan Sea formerly Hyrcania wherein are the Cities and Towns of Firuzcuh Sukar-abad and Mibnikiellé at the entry of the Mountains Giru Talara-pesct and Saru in the Plain Ferh-abad Ciarman and Gscref toward the Sea The eighth is Estarabad formerly Margiana which extends to the River Ruthkhané-kurkan which the Ancients call'd Oxus the principal Cities whereof are Estarabad Amul Damkam The ninth contains the Province of the Usbeck-Tartars comprehending all the ancient Sogdiana and Bactriana the chief Cities whereof are Balk Samarcand and Boccara c. The tenth is Corassan formerly Aria with some part of Bactriana the chief Cities whereof are Eri Meshed Nisabur Thun c. The eleventh Sablestan formerly Peloponnesus the principal Cities whereof are Beksabat Asbé Bust Sarents the Territory and City of Candahar being also comprehended within the extent of this Province together with Duki and Alunkan upon the Frontiers of the Great Mogul's Dominions The twelfth is Sigistan formerly Drangiana the principal Cities whereof are Sistan Shalack and Kets The thirteenth comprehends all the Territories of the ancient Arachosia bord'ring upon the Kingdom of Scindi not having any Cities that we know of The fourteenth is the Province of Makran lying all along upon the Sea of Mogostan formerly Gedrosia the chief Cities whereof are Makran Firhk Chalak and the Port of Guadel toward Guzerat The fifteenth Kerman formerly Caramania extending as far as the Gulf of Ormus the chief Cities whereof are Kerman Bermazir the Port of Kuhestek and the Cape of Jasques The sixteenth is Farsistan or that part of Persia so properly call'd the chief Cities whereof are Schiras Caseron Benarou Firus-abat Darab-guier c. To which you may add the little Province of Laraston with the City of Lar just against Ormus But this Province formerly extended no farther than Benarou two days journey from Lar before Sha-Abas conquer'd the Kingdom of Lar and then the Kingdom of Ormus Now they are both united though they have both several Governours as they had distinct Princes before The Ports in this Province upon the Persian Gulf are Bander-Abassi and Bander-Congo There are two other little Ports in the Persian Gulf about thirty hours sail from the Mouth of Euphrates but not capable of receiving any other than small Barks which are very much to be admir'd for in regard the Inhabitants are ignorant of the use of Iron it is strange to see their Boats made so handsom and strong withal the Planks being only ty'd together with a Cord which is made of a kind of Hemp tak'n from the out-side of the Coco-nut The last is the Province of Cursistan formerly Susiana which Euphrates and Tigris joyning together separate from Chaldea the principal Cities whereof are Suster anciently Susa the Capital City of the Empire of King Ahasuerus Ahawas Scabar Ramhormus c. The temper of the Air in Persia varies according to the variety of situation The Country of
condition Others more refin'd and not believing material enjoyments affirm that Beatitude consists in the perfect knowledge of the Sciences and for the sences they shall have their satisfaction according to their quality CHAP. XX. The Author departs from Ispahan to Ormus and describes the Road to Schiras I Set forth out of Ispahan the 24. of Feb. 1665. in the afternoon and stai'd a League from the City in a field whither some of my friends would needs accompany me About ten a clock at night I set forward again and travell'd till break of day and then I came to a place where the Radars kept guard half a league from a great Town call'd Ispshaneck which you are to cross About ten a clock in the forenoon I came to Mahiar where there is a very good Inn. But the Land between this and Ispahan is all very barren and without wood The 26 th three hours after midnight I set forward through a dry Plain which begins to grow more fruitful about a League from Comshe a great City where I arriv'd by eleven a Clock in the morning In it are several Inns and indifferent handsome ones considering that they are built only of Earth This City is compos'd of a row of Villages that extend about half a League in length About three quarters of a League on this side the City stands a neat Mosquee with a pond full of fish But the Moullahs will not permit you to catch any saying that they belong to the Prophet to whom the Mosquee is dedicated However because it is a shady place in the Summer Travellers rather choose to lye by this pond then to shut themselves up in the City The 27 th I travell'd from four in the morning till ten in the forenoon through a plain sow'd with store of grain and lodg'd in an Inn call'd Maksoubegui The 28 th I departed two hours after midnight and after eight hours travel through a barren plain I arriv'd at Yesdecas a little City built upon a rock in the midst of a great Valley and lodg'd in an Inn at the foot of the Rock The same day in the morning I pass'd on to a neat house with sine Gardens call'd Amnebad built by Iman-Kouli-Kan Governor of Schiras The first of March I departed an hour after midnight and a little after I cross'd a short mountain but so rugged and so craggie that they have given it the name of Kotel-Innel-tebekeni that is the Mountain that breaks the Horses shoes The next day we pass'd by a scurvy Castle call'd Gombessala then travelling through a flat Country I came by ten in the morning to Dehigherdou or the Village of Wall-nuts I endur'd very sharp weather all the morning for all that Country and that which I travell'd the next day is very cold at some times of the year The second day I travell'd from midnight till ten a clock in the morning through the Snow over a barren Plain to come to Cuzkuzar where there is a new Inn well built The third I was a horseback from five in the morning till noon first over the same Plain by a Lake side in a very bad way cover'd with snow that hid the holes then passing a tedious long and rugged mountain I descended to a Village call'd Asepas where there is to be seen an old ruin'd Castle upon the point of a Hill The Inhabitants were all Georgians by descent but now turn'd all Mahumetans I met with wine and fish in regard of the many Rivolets but the Caravahsira is old and ill provided The fourth setting out by day-break I rode over a Plain which Sha Abbas the first gave the Georgians to till and in eleven hours I came to Ondgiom a large Village upon a River over which there is a fair stone bridge The fifth I got a horseback by two a clock in the morning and had two leagues in the first place of deep miery way afterwards I pass'd a steep Mountain craggy and durty I pass'd through a Village call'd Iman Shade from the name of one of their Prophets that lyes buried there and gave the Mountain its name being all cover'd with bitter Almond-trees I travell'd sometime between rude and craggy rocks after which I met with a small River which runs to Mayn a little City where I lodg'd in a fair Inn. The sixth I departed three hours after midnight and travell'd through a large Plain encompass'd with high and rugged Mountains upon one of which that is divided from the other stood a Castle which they say was ruin'd by Alexander the Great of which at present there does not remain the least sign or footstep I cross'd the river of Mayne over two stone Bridges and then came to Abgherme a place that stands in a Plain where there is an Inn half built so call'd by reason of a Spring of hot waters that rises not far from it In the morning I pass'd over a fair and long Causey call'd Pouligor being above 500 paces long and 15 broad divided also by certain Bridges to give the water free passage by reason the Country is very full of mershes At the end of this Causey stands an Inn very well built but the gants that haunt it will not suffer it to be frequented I pass'd along by the foot of a Mountain and after three hours travel I stopp'd a while at an Inn that stands at the foot of another steep and craggie mountain I arriv'd at Schiras about six a clock at night But here give me leave before I enter the City to make two observations the one touching the Road from Ispahan to Schiras the other concerning the ruins of Tche-elminar As to the Road from Ispahan to Schiras observe that in winter time when the Snow is fallen when you come to Yesdecas you must of necessity leave the direct road because it is impossible to pass the streights of those Mountains which I have mention'd Therefore you must keep the left hand road eastward through the Plains taking a guide along with you This way which is the longer by two days journey was formerly unknown because of a River that in one place beats upon a steep rock and closes up the passage But Iman-Kouli-Kan with a vast expence of time and money caus'd a way to be levell'd out of the Rock about 15 or 20 foot above the River which he secur'd to the water-side with a Wall three or four foot high This way continues for half a league and then you come to lye at a great Village in a Plain where you take Guides to shew you the Fords of the River Having past the River you cross over several fertil Plains water'd with great store of Rivers Then you ascend a Mountain from whence you have but a league and a half to Tche-clminar At the point of the Mountain upon the right-hand of the great Road are to be seen twelve Pillars still standing that form a kind of a square In the spaces of the Mountain
snow is whiter but besides all that it smells of Musk and all the Grandees of the Indians eat no other When they would make an acceptable Present to any one in Persia they send him a sack of this Rice This River which passes by Kerkoa and those other places I have mention'd empties it self into the River of Surat From Navapoura to Nasarbar costes 9 From Nasarbar to Dol-medan costes 74 From Dol-medan to Senquera costes 7 From Senquera to Tallener costes 10 At Tallener you are to pass the River which runs to Baroche where it is very large and empties it self into the Golf of Cambaya From Tallener to Choupre costes 15 From Coupre to Senquelis costes 13 From Senquelis to Nabir costes 10 From Nabir to Badelpoura costes 9 At Badelpoura it is where the loaded Waggons pay the duties of Brampour but the Waggons that carry nothing but Passengers pay nothing From Badelpoura to Brampour costes 5 Brampour is a great City very much ruin'd the Houses being for the most part thatch'd with straw There is also a great Castle in the midst of the City where the Governour lies the Government of this Province is a very considerable command and is only conferr'd upon the Son or Unckle of the King And Aureng-zeb the present King was a long time Governour of this Province in the Reign of his Father But since they came to understand the strength of the Province of Bengala which formerly bore the Title of a Kingdom that Province is now the most considerable in all the Mogul's Countrey There is a great Trade in this City and as well in Brampore as over all the Province there is made a prodigious quantity of Calicuts very clear and white which are transported into Porsia Turkey and Muscovia Poland Arabia to Grand Cairo and other places There are some which are painted with several colours with flowers of which the Women make Veils and Scarfs the same Calicuts serve for Coverlets of Beds and for Handkerchiefs There is another sort of Linnen which they never dye with a stripe or two of Gold or Silver quite through the piece and at each end from the bredth of one inch to twelve or fifteen in some more in some less they fix a tissue of Gold Silver and Silk intermix'd with Flowers whereof there is no wrong-side both sides being as fair the one as the other If these pieces which they carry into Poland where they have a vast utterance want at each end three or four inches at the least of Gold or Silver or if that Gold or Silver become tarnish'd in being carried by Sea from Surat to Ormus and from Trebizan to Mangala or any other parts upon the Black-Sea the Merchant shall have much ado to put them off without great loss He must take care that his goods be packt up in good Bales that no wet may get in which for so long a Voyage requires great care and trouble Some of these Linnens are made purposely for Swathbands or Shashes and those pieces are call'd Ornis They contain from 15 to 20 Ells and cost from an hunderd to an hunderd and fifty Roupies the least not being under ten or twelve ells Those that are not above two ells long are worn by the Ladies of Quality for Veils and Scarfs of which there is a vast quantity vended in Persia and Turkey They make at Brampour also other sorts of Cotton-Linnen for indeed there is no Province in all the Indies which more abounds in Cotton When you leave the City of Brampoure you must pass another River besides that which I have mention'd already There is no Bridge and therefore when the water is low you ford it when the rains fall there are Boats attending From Surat to Brampour it is 132 Costes and these Costes are very short in the Indies for you may travel one of them in a Coach in less than an hour I remember a strange tumult at Brampoure in the year 1641 when I returned from Agra to Surat the cause whereof was thus in short The Governour of the Province who was the King's Nephew by the Mother's-side had among his Pages a young Boy that was very beautiful and of a very good Family who had a Brother in the City that liv'd as a Dervich and for whom all the Town had a very great veneration One day the Governour being alone in his Chamber did all that lay in his power by vertue of Gifts and Caresses to have had the use of his Body but the Boy detesting his abominable purpose made his escape from him and came and told his Brother The Dervich without deliberating what Councel he had to give his younger Brother gave him a Sword such a one as he might easily hide under his Garment and told him that if the Governour urg'd him any more that he should make a shew of complying with him but that when he went about to do the fact he should be sure to run him into the Guts The Governour who knew nothing of what the Page had reveal'd to his Brother ceas'd not every day to court him to consent to his infamous lust and being one day alone with him in a small Apartment of a Banquetting-House at the lower end of his Garden he sent for his Page to fan him and to keep off the Flies after the fashion of the Country for it was about noon when every one goes to sleep Then did the Governour begin again to press the young Page and finding that he made no resistance he thought he should suddenly accomplish his design But the Page seeing him ready to commit the act stab'd him three times into the Belly before he could open his mouth to cry out for help That done the Page went out of the Palace without any disturbance In his countenance so that the Guards believ'd that the Governour had sent him out upon some errand The Dervich understanding by his Brother what had pass'd to save him from the fury of the people and to discover the Infamy of the Governour caus'd the rest of the Dervichs his Companions to take the Banners of Mahomet that were planted round the Mosquee and at the same time with loud cries encourag'd all the rest of the Dervichs Faquirs and others that were good Mahumetans to follow him In less than an hours time he had got together an infinite multitude of the Rabble and the Dervich marching at the head of them they made directly to the Palace crying out with all their might Let us dye for Mahomet or let us have that infamous person deliver'd up into our hands to the end the Dogs may eat him after his death not being worthy to be enterr'd among the Musselmen The Guard of the Palace was not in a condition to resist so great a Multitude so that they must have been forced to have yeilded to their fury had not the Deroga of the Town and some five or six Lords found a way to make themselves to be
with a double Moat where the Governour resides He is one of the greatest Lords in India and being very sickly he has always about him ten Persian Physicians He had also in his service Claudius Maille of Bourges who practises Chyrurgery and Physick both together This was he that advis'd us not to drink of Ganges Water which would put us into a looseness but rather to drink Well-water The chief of these Persian Physicians whom this Governour hires with his Money one day threw his Wife from the top of a Battlement to the ground prompted to that act of cruelty by some jealousies he had entertain'd He thought the fall had kill'd her but she had only a Rib or two bruis'd whereupon the Kindred of the Woman came and demanded justice at the feet of the Governour The Governour sending for the Physician commanded him to be gone resolving to retain him no longer in his service The Physician obey'd and putting his maim'd Wife in a Pallanquin he set forward upon the Road with all his Family But he was not gone above three or four days journey from the City when the Governour finding himself worse than he was wont to be sent to recall him which the Physician perceiving stab'd his Wife his four Children and thirteen female Slaves and return'd again to the Governour who said not a word to him but entertain'd him again into his service The eighth day I cross'd the River in a large Boat having stay'd from morning till noon upon the bank-side expecting Monsieur Maille to bring me a Passport from the Governour For there stands a Deroga upon each side of the River who will not suffer any person to pass without leave and he takes notice what sort of Goods are transported there being due from every Waggon four Roupies and from every Coach one not accounting the charge of the Boat which you must pay beside The same day I went to Sadoul-serail costes 16 The ninth to Yakedel-sera costes 10 The tenth to Bouraki-sera costes 10 The eleventh to Banarou costes 10 Banarou is a large City and handsomly built the most part of the Houses being either of Brick or Stone and higher than in any other Cities of India but the inconveniency is that the Streets are very narrow There are many Inns in the Town among the rest one very large and very handsomely built In the middle of the Court are two Galleries where are to be sold Calicuts Silks and other sorts of Merchandise The greatest part of the Sellers are the Workmen themselves so that the Merchants buy at the first hand These Workmen before they expose any thing to sale must go to him that has the stamp to have the Kings Seal set upon their Linnen and Silks otherwise they would be fin'd and lambasted with a good Cudgel This City is scituated upon the North side of Ganges that runs by the Walls and into which there falls also another River some two Leagues upward toward the West In Banarou stands one of the Idolaters principal Pagods whereof I shall speak in my second Book when I come to treat of the Religion of the Banians About five hundred paces from the City Northward there is a Mosquee where are to be seen many Mahometan Sepulehers whereof some are very curious pieces of Architecture The fairest are every one in the middle of a Garden enclosed with Walls wherein there are Holes some half a foot square through which Passengers may have a sight of the Tomb within The most considerable of all is as it were a four square Pedestal every square whereof is forty paces wide In the midst of this Platform rises a Column thirty-two or thirty-five foot high all of a piece which three men can hardly embrace The Stone is of a grey colour and so hard that I could not scrape it with my Knife As it is Pyramidical there is a great Bowl at the top which is encompass'd at the upper end with huge Grains of Wheat All the fronts of the Tomb are full of figures of Animals cut in the Stone and it has been higher above ground than now it seems to be for several old men that look'd to some of the Sepulchers assur'd me that within these fifty years it had sunk above thirty foot into the Earth They tell you moreover that it is the Sepulcher of one of the Kings of Boutan who was interr'd here after he had left his own Countrey to conquer this Kingdom out of which he was driven by the Successors of Tamerlane The Kingdom of Boutan is the place from whence they fetch Musk and I will give you a description of it in my third Book I stay'd at Banarou the 12 th and 13 th and during those two days it rain'd continually but not so as to stop my journey so that the evening of the thirteenth day I cross'd the Ganges with the Governours Pass-port Before you go into the Boat they search the Travellers baggage wearing Apparel however pays nothing of Custom but only Merchandise The 13 th I went to Baterpour costes 2 The 14 th to Satraguy-sera costes 8 The 15 th to Moniarky-sera costes 9 The same day in the morning after I had travel'd two Leagues I cross'd a River call'd Carnasarsou and three Leagues from thence I cross'd another which they call Saode-sou both which I foarded The 16 th to Gourmabad costes 8 This is a Town upon a River call'd Goudera-sou which is cross'd over a Stone-Bridg The 17 th to Saseron costes 4 Saseron is a City at the foot of certain Mountains near to which there is a great Lake In the middle whereof there is a small Island with a fair Mosquee built upon it wherein is to be seen the Sepulcher of a Nahab or Favourite call'd Selim-Kan who built it when he was Governour of the Province There is a fair Bridg to cross over into the Island pav'd and lin'd with large free Stone Upon one side of the Lake is a great Garden in the middle whereof is another fair Sepulcher of the Son of the same Nahab Selim-Kan who succeeded his Father in the Government of the Province If you would go to the Mine of Soulmelpour whereof I shall speak in the last Book of these Relations you must leave the great Road to Patna and bend to the South through Exberbourgh and the famous Fortress of Rhodes of which I shall treat in the same place The 18 th I ferry'd in a Boat over the River Sonsou which descends from the Southern Mountains after you have cross'd it the Merchandise pays a certain Toll The same day I travel'd on to Daoud-Nagar-sera where there is a fair Tomb costes 9 The 19 th to Halva-sera costes 10 The 20 th to Aga-sera costes 9 In the morning I met a hundred and thirty Elephants great and small which they were leading to Dehli to the great Mogul The one and twentienth to Patna costes 10 Patna is one of the greatest Cities of India upon the
Bank of Ganges toward the West not being less than two Leagues in length But the Houses are no fairer than in the greatest part of the other Cities of India being cover'd with Bambouck or Straw The Holland Company have a House there by reason of their Trade in Saltpeter which they refine at a great Town call'd Choupar which is also scituated upon Ganges ten Leagues above Patna Coming to Patna we met the Hollanders in the Street returning from Choupar who stop'd our Coaches to salute us We did not part till we had emptied two Bottles of Sohiras Wine in the open Street which is not taken notice of in that Country where people meet with an entire freedom without any Ceremony I stay'd eight days at Patna during which time there fell out an accident which will let the Reader understand that Sodomy does not go altogether unpunish'd among the Mahumetans A Mimbachi who commanded a thousand Foot went about to abuse a young Boy in his service and who had several times resisted his attempts complaining also to the Governour and telling him withall that if his Master persisted to urge him any more he would certainly kill him At length the Captain took his opportunity at a House which he had in the Country and forc'd the Boy The Boy o'rewhelm'd with grief and rage took his opportunity also to revenge himself and being one day hunting with his Master about a quarter of a League from any of his other Servants he got behind him and cleft his head with his Hanger After he had done he rode full speed to the City crying out all the way that he had kill'd his Master for such a reason and went immediately to the Governours Lodging who sent him to prison but he let him out at the end of six months and notwithstanding all the endeavours which the Captains Kindred us'd to have had him put to death the Governour durst not condemn him for fear of the people who affirm'd that the Boy had done well I parted from Patna in a Boat for Daca the nine and twentieth of January between eleven and twelve at noon and had the River been deep as it uses to be after the Rains I had taken Boat at Hallabas or at least at Banarou The same day I came to lye at sera-Beconcour costes 15 Five Leagues on this side Beconcour you meet with a River call'd Pomponsou which comes from the South and falls into Ganges The thirtieth to Sera-d ' Erija costes 17 The one and thirtieth after we had travel'd four Leagues or thereabout we met with the River Kaoa which comes from the South Three Leagues lower you meet with another River call'd Chanon which comes from the North. Four Leagues farther you discover the River Erguga which runs from the South and at length six Leagues beyond the River Aquera falling from the same part of the World all which four Rivers lose their Names in the Ganges All that day I saw great Mountains toward the South distant from Ganges sometimes ten and sometimes fifteen Leagues till at length I came to lodg in monger-Monger-City costes 18 The first day of January 1666 after I had gone by Water two hours I saw the Gandet fall into the Ganges flowing from the North. This is a great River that carries Boats That eveining I lay at Zangira costes 8 But in regard of the winding of Ganges all that days journey I might well reckon them by Water two and twenty Leagues The second day from between six in the morning till eleven I saw three Rivers that threw themselves into Ganges all three descending from the North. The first is call'd Ronova the second Then the third Ghanan I came to lye at Baquelpour costes 18 The third after four hours upon the Ganges I met the River Katare which comes from the North and lay at a Village call'd Pongangel at the foot of certain Mountains that descend to Ganges it self costes 13 The fourth an hours rowing beyond Pongangel I met a great River call'd Mart-Nadi coming from the South and I lay at Rage-Mehale costes 6 Rage-Mehale is a City upon the right hand of Ganges and if you go by Land you shall find the high-way for a League or two pav'd with Brick to the Town Formerly the Governours of Bengala resided here it being an excellent Country for hunting besides that it was a place of great Trade But now the River having taken another course above a good half League from the City as well for that reason as to keep in awe the King of Aracan and several Portuguese Banditi who are retir'd to the mouths of Ganges and made excursions even as far as Daca it self both the Governour and the Merchants have remov'd themselves to Daca which is at present a large City and a Town of great Trade The sixth being arriv'd at a considerable Town call'd Donapour six Leagues from Rage-Mehale I parted with Monsieur Bernier who was going to Casenbasar and thence to Ogouli by Land for when the River is low there is no going by Water by reason of a great Bank of Sand that lies before a City call'd Santiqui I lay that night at Toutipour distant from Rage-mehale costes 12 I saw there at Sun-rising a great number of Crocodiles lying upon the Sand. The seventh I came to Acerat costes 25 From Acerat to Daca it is counted by Land forty-five Leagues All that day I saw such a vast number of Crocodiles that I had a great desire to shoot at one to try whether the vulgar report were true that a Musket-shot would not pierce their skin The bullet hit him in the jaw and made the blood gush out however he would not stay in the place but plung'd into the River The eighth I saw again a great number lying upon the bank of the River and made two shot at two with three bullets at a time As soon as they were wounded they turn'd themselves upon their backs opening their throats and di'd upon the spot That day I came to lie at Douloudia costes 17 The Crows were here the cause that we found a very fair Fish which the Fisher-men had hid among the Osiers by the side of the River for when our Water-men saw the Crows in great numbers hovering and making an hideous noise about the Osiers they presently conjectur'd that there was something more than ordinary and they made so diligent a search that at length they found an excellent dish of meat The ninth two hours after noon we met with a River call'd Chativor that runs from the North and we lay at Dampour costes 16 The tenth we lay by the River-side in a place remote from Houses and we travell'd that day costes 15 The eleventh toward evening being come to that part where Ganges divides it self into three Arms whereof one runs to Daca we lay at a large Town upon the entry of the great Channel which Town is call'd Jatrapour costes 20 They that have no
Ruslowa upon the main Wolga Cokelou Beerullee Ewansuke Mansor Argeessan Keessan Camusshuke Naowara Tussockly Collobery Malla Collobery Yamansuke Eirichsha Surka Libessha Bussan Carabussan Bealla Wolloskee In all which Oughsukes or Wears they take no Fish besides Sturgeon They are made of Shigenas or long Poles made sharp at one end and beaten into the ground under Water and a pleiting made of Rods somewhat resembling Osier after the manner of our Matts which are fastned to the Poles and hinder the Fish from passing up the River And Houses are built near the Wears for the Convenience of the Fishers 40 50 more or less according unto the greatness of the Water or resort of Fish and twice every day usually in the morning and evening they set about their Fishery They imploy only long slender Poles with an iron Hook or Cruke in the end baited and do ordinarily take 400 every day in the smaller and 600 in the larger Streams The Sturgeon they take is all salted excepting that wherewith they serve the Town of Astracan where a whole fair Sturgeon may be bought for ten pence English and when the great Caravan comes from Russia it takes off most of their Fish which is conveyed into divers parts of Muscovy but chiefly unto the great City of Mosco They return also with great quantities of Caviar and Salt there being not far from the Volga on the Little Nagoy side great Salt-pits which yield an immense quantity of Salt prepared yearly by the heat of the Sun without any further trouble than taking it off the superficies of the Water where it daily kerns The Volga a little above Seraichena 500 miles from Astrachan dismisses a great Branch named Actabon which passing through the Desarts of the Great Nagoy through Bussane enters the Caspian Sea The remainder of the Volga after having parted with several smaller Branches most of which joyn with the forementioned River divides the Little and Great Nagoy passes under the Town of Astrachan whence it proceeds unto Ruslowa on the South-west side of Crosna Boggar then falls into the Caspian And the distance between the East-side of the Volga near Astrachan and the River Actabon is about 20 miles which is mostly Water and Islands And that the Course of the Volga from its first Source until it doth dis-embogue it self into the Caspian Sea can be no less than what we have asserted is hence confirmed That the Snow which falls abundantly in Russia and begins to be dissolved about the latter end of April and do mightily increase the Waters of the Volga come not unto Astrachan until Midsummer when it so raises the Volga that overflowing the Banks it covers with his Waters all the Islands near Astrachan so that from the Little Nagoy unto Actabon in the Great Nagoy all the Countrey seems excepting a Hillock or two one continued Lake or a great Gulf of the Sea Wherefore they who go in the Spring from Astrachan to fetch Wood having cut it make great Floats which are lifted up when the River overflows and guided each by a few Men until they are brought unto Astrachan or those other places for which they are designed The most remarkable Towns and Habitations upon the Volga between Seraichena and Astrachan which are 500 miles distant from each other are Camena Rokegowa Osshenofka Chornoyar Borisse Offatalka Poollowoy Collmakof Satone Cossoyar Crosnoyar Nassonoyar Satone Yanatavy Daneelofka Perre Ousshake Eillansuke Eiskyborro Crukla Bussan Balsheeke Tollotonygorod Dolgoa Goradocha which was old Astrachan Sharina Bogor which is near Astrachan besides many other Places with whose Names I have not charged my memory We will now pass over the Volga through Astrachan into the Great Nagoy The Great Nagoy may be properly enough divided into Islands and Continent the former are made by the Volga and several Rivers which fall out of it variously mix'd with each other and are all at length emptied into the Caspian Sea Those Rivers or Branches have their several Names those which I remember are Cuttoma Boulda Malla Guellusa Creewantya Busane Actabon and Bereket The Kingdom of the Great Nagoy is all plain and desart 1200 miles in length between Astrachan and Samara 500 miles in breadth from the said Astrachan unto the River of the Yeike or Jaick There is no Wood in all this Countrey except what grows near the Rivers It hath no Towns or fix'd Habitations though it had formerly divers and some among them very considerable as Czarofsgorod or Czarofs Pollate in English the Emperor's Town which formerly must needs have been as its Name imports an Imperial or Capital City I have often viewed it with admiration and cannot compute it to have been less than 20 miles in Circuit I have told fourscore great eminent Buildings which must have been either Moschees Pallaces or Caravanseraies and some of them 6 miles distant from the other The Muscovites are of divers Opinions concerning its Destruction Some say it was ruined by the Cossacks but the Cossacks who are ready enough to brag of their Atchievements know nothing thereof only that they have often dispossessed the Russes when they endeavoured to rebuild part of it For indeed the Situation is very excellent having the Volga on one side the Actabon on the other The Countrey very beautiful healthful and fertile and yet notwithstanding all these encouragements it is not yet inhabited not by the Russes because it standing on the main Land they would be continually exposed unto the Inroads of the Tartars nor by the Tartars because its nearness unto the Rivers would render them obnoxious to the Russes every time the great Caravan passes that way which is at least twice each year Yet the Muscovites do frequently fetch Brick and Stones from this ruined City wherewith they have built a great part of Astrachan and the neighbouring Forts or Towns where such solid Materials are imployed But besides this Serai for so the Tartars call any fix'd Habitation there were in ancient times five or six more down along the Rivers side in each of which formerly dwelt a Chan but Time and Wars have almost entirely ruined them There is also another Serai upon the River Jaick named Seraichika where is said formerly to have been the Residence of a great Myrsa or Chan but 't is now quite ruinated The Tartars who inhabit the Great Nagoy both Men and Women are very proper at least of much taller Stature than many other Tartars but have ill-favoured Countenances broad Faces flat little Noses small Eyes sunk in their Heads all which are common to most of the Eastern Tartars But the Tartars of Crim are more comely which I suppose may partly proceed from their Wives who are many of them Captive Circassians Russes Poles Hungars and of divers other Nations The Nagoy Tartars are also Black or rather Tawny which I Conjecture is not so much natural as proceeding from the heat of the Sun which is in these Parts some Months of the Year much
is another way quite over the Mountain which is the nearer way by a League but 't is very troublesom and toylsom and therefore the less frequented But to return to the High-Road from Naksivan half a League from Naksivan you meet with a River which falls into Anas which is to be cross'd over a Stone-Bridge of 12 Arches though there be but little Water unless it be when the Snow melts or the Rains fall In a Meadow next the Bridge where we lodg'd one time that I travell'd that way there is a Spring of lukewarm Water which will loosen the Bellies of them that drink it At this Bridge it is that the Toll-gatherer comes and takes his Duties when the Caravan stays not at Naksivan You must pay ten Abassi's for every Camel's Loading or nine Livres which is for the securing the Highways These Duties are demanded in many places of Persia without searching the Packs The Governours also in their Provinces are made to answer for every Robbery committed which makes it so safe travelling in Persia that you need not keep with the Caravan unless you will your self From this Bridge to Zulfa is but one days journey which Town being altogether ruin'd shews the reason wherefore the Caravan lodges upon the Bank of the River five hundred Paces on this side Zulfa the ancient Habitation of the Armenians which Sha-Abas carried into Persia is a Town squeez'd between two Mountains through which the Aras runs leaving but little Land on either side It carries no Boats till about two Leagues below for upward it will hardly bear a piece of Timber and in regard the Country grows low and extends it self into Plains there is no fear of Rocks the course of the Stream being very quiet There was a fair Stone-Bridge which Sha-Abas caus'd to be broken down when he wholly destroy'd the Town that it might be no harbour for the Turks Neither by the Ruines nor by its Situation doth it appear to have been a City of any ancient Beauty the Stones were clapt unskilfully together without Morter so that the Houses were more like Caves than Houses The North-West side was most inhabited there being nothing on the other side worth taking notice of The Lands about Zulfa being very fertil there are certain Armenian Families return'd who live very quietly Cogia Nazar one of the chief Armenians that went out of Zulfa growing rich by Trade and being in great reputation with Sha-Abas and Sha-Sefi his Successor who made him Kelomer or Chief Judge of the Armenian Nation built two great Inns for the Honour of his Country in Zulfa upon each side of the River one He spent above an hundred thousand Crowns but dying left two remarkable Pieces of Work unfinish'd Half a League on this side Zulfa before you cross a Torrent that falls into Aras you may take your choice of two ways to go to Tauris The one upon the right hand leading to the South-East which is the ordinary Road the other upon the left hand toward the North-East which we took eight or ten in company together on horseback the last time I went to Ispahan We left the Caravan that takes the great Road and never goes the other way because it is full of Rocks and Stones that spoil the hooss of the Camels However I was willing to see a new Country which I shall describe before I come to the great Road. From the Torrent where we left the Caravan we went forward and lay at a Village not above a League and a half off The next day after we had kept along by the Banks of the Aras for five or six Hours we came to Astabat which lyes a League from the River where we staid above two Days to divert our selves This is but a little City but a very neat one where there are four Inns and every House has its Fountain The great plenty of Water makes the City very fruitful in all things more especially in good Wine This is the only Country in the World that produces the Ronas for which there is a vast utterance all over Persia and India The Ronas is a Root that grows in the Earth like Liquorice and is not much bigger The use of it is to dye Red and this is that Red which gives that beautiful tincture to all the Calicuts that come out of the Mogul's Country Though the Roots which are pull'd out of the Earth are very long yet they cut them into pieces not above as long as a Man's Hand for the better accommodation of Carriage It is a wonderful thing to behold at Ormus whole Caravans laden with this Ronas whith they Ship off from thence to the Indies The Root is full of Juyce and yields a very high Tincture for I remember that an Indian Vessel that was laden with it being cast away in the Road of Ormus where the Bags of Ronas floated the Sea look'd of a red colour for several days Departing from Astabat it behov'd us to provide our selves with Straw and Barley for our Horses understanding that we should meet with none all that days journey From thence we travell'd upon a descent for an hour together to the River Aras which we cross'd in a Boat and all the rest of the day we travel'd through Mountains over Torrents and Stones That Evening we lay upon the Bank of a small Stream The day following after we had travel'd through a spacious Valley for two or three hours we ascended a high Mountain at the top whereof we met with two or three pitiful Houses where we stopt that day The next which was the fifth after we left the Caravan we travel'd upon a descent for two or three hours till we came to a great Village neatly situated where there grows excellent Fruit. There we repos'd for an hour or two and from thence we came to a great Stone-Bridge on a River where there is no Water but when the Rains fall It falls into the Lake Roumi but the Water of the River is so sowr and ill-tasted especially when it is low that it is not to be drunk About a quarter of a League from the Bridge are three long Stones set in the Ground like Pillars the Natives say that they were plac'd there for a Monument in the same place where Darius the Son of Hystaspes was elected King by the cunning of the Gentleman of his Horse from whence to Tauris is but half a League The Mountains of the Medes which we cross'd in this Road and those which run along toward the ancient Parthians are the most fertil in all Persia. They bear Corn and Fruit in abundance for upon the high Mountains there are fair Plains sow'd with Wheat which are extraordinary fertil The Springs which rise there and Rains which fall give a fresher beauty and a higher tast to what grows there more than in any other part of Persia that wants Water and the products of those Fields are of a higher price Now
for the great Road. The Caravan having cross'd the Stream where we left it lodges the next Night upon the Banks of Aras over which it ferries the next Morning It does not go thorough Zulfa though it be so near it because that on the other side of the City there are three Leagues of Way very bad and unfrequented For which reason you must leave Zulfa on the right hand which is not much out of the way After two hours travel you go by a Bridge which is call'd Sugiac after which you come upon Heaths encompass'd with high Rocks All this days journey you meet with no Water but only one little Fountain and the Water is so bad that the Beasts will hardly drink it The day following you travel through an even Country but very barren where you meet with nothing but a forlorn Inn though it be a place where Cost has been bestow'd and built all of Free-stone that was fetch'd a great way off The next Stage is Marante famous for the Burying-place of Noah's Wife The Town is not very big resembling rather a Thicket than a City but the situation is very pleasant in the middle of a fertil Plain adorn'd with several well peopl'd Villages This Plain does not extend above a League round about Marante the Country beyond it being all barren However it is not altogether unprofitable for being a continual Heath it affords feeding for the Camels which are there bred for the Caravans Which is the reason that there are so many Camel-Masters at Sugiac and Marante who furnish great part of the Road. At Marante you must pay thirteen Abassi's or four Crowns for every Camel's Load for the security of the Road. Leaving Marante you lodge the next night a League from Sophiana in a bushy Plain where the Water is worth nothing after you have travell'd a mix'd Country barren enough where you meet with but one Inn in a Valley but it is a very fair one Sophiana is an indifferent large City which you cannot see till you come within it by reason of the great number of Trees planted in the Streets and round about it which makes it look rather like a Forest than a City The next day which is usually the tenth days journey from Erivan the Caravan having cross'd fair large and fertil Plains arrives at Tauris Those Plains are water'd with several Streams that fall from the Median Mountains but the Water is not all of the same goodness for there is some which cannot be drunk In the mid-way between Sophiana and Tauris lyes a Hill from whence you have a prospect over those Plains upon which the Army of Sultan Amurath Encamp'd when he besieg'd Tauris The news coming to Sha-Sefi King of Persia that he had burnt it and was marching further into the Country with a hundred thousand Men Let him come said he without any disturbance I know how to make the Turks pay for their Invasion without any great trouble They were then not above fifteen days march from Ispahan when Sha-Sefi turn'd the course of all the Streams both before and behind which only run from certain Springs and are brought in Cutts or Chanels into the Inland-parts of Persia where there are no Rivers By which means the whole Army of the Turks perish'd for want of Water in those vast unwater'd Countries where they had engag'd themselves too far Tauris lyes in 83 Degrees 30 Minutes of Longitude and 40 Degrees 15 Minutes of Latitude in an open place where there is not a Tree to be seen and environ'd with Mountains on every side but only upon the West The furthest Mountain is not above a League from the City but there is one which almost touches it being only separated from it by the River 'T is a good Country and fruitful in Corn there is good Pasturage and great store of Pulse Some think that Tauris was the ancient Ecbatane the Metropolis of the Empire of the Medes It is at this day a great City and well peopl'd as being the Mart for Turkie Muscovy the Indies and Persia. There are an infinite number of Merchants and vast quantities of all sorts of Merchandize particularly of Silk which is brought out of the Province of Guilan and other places There is also a great Trade for Horses which are handsom and cheap Wine Aqua-vitae and indeed all sorts of Provisions are cheap enough and Money trolls about in that place more than in any other part of Asia Many Armenian Families have got great Estates there by Trade and understand it better than the Persians A little River the Water whereof is very good runs through the middle of Tauris it 's call'd Scheinkaie over which there are three Bridges to cross from one part of the City to the other The most part of the Buildings in Tauris are of Bricks bak'd in the Sun the Houses not being above one or two Stories high at most The tops of the Houses are terrass'd the Roofs within are vaulted and plaister'd with Earth mix'd with chopt Straw which they whiten afterwards with Lime In the year 1638 the City was almost ruin'd by Sultan Amurath but it is almost all rebuilt again There are in it Bazars or Market-houses which are well built and many Inns very commodious two Stories high The fairest is that of Mirza-Sadé Governour of the Province who caus'd it to be built with a Market-house adjoyning to which he has added a Mosquee and a Colledge with good Revenues The great Trade of Tauris renders it renown'd over all Asia for it has a continual Traffick with Turks Arabians Georgians Mengrelians Persians Indians Muscovites and Tartars The Bazars or Market-houses which are cover'd are always full of Goods for there are some which are peculiar to the Handicraft-Trades the most part whereof are Smiths such as make Saws Axes Files and Steels to strike Fire with Tobacco-stoppers belonging to them Some there are that make Pad-locks for the Eastern People fasten their Doors only with wooden Bolts There are also Turners that furnish the neighbouring Parts with Spinning-Wheels and Cradles and some Goldsmiths that make trifles of Silver But there is abundance of Silk-weavers that are Artists and work very neatly and indeed there are more of those than of any other Trade Here it is that they dress the greatest part of the Shagrin-Skins that are vended so plentifully all over Persia for there are none unless it be the Country-people but wear Boots or Shooes of Shagrin-Leather This Leather is made either of the Hides of Horses Asses or Mules and only of the hinder part of the Hide but the Asses Hide has the best grain There are to be seen at Tauris Ruines of the stately Edifices round about the great Piazza and the neighbouring Parts they have also let run to ruine four or five Mosquees of a prodigious height and bigness The most magnificent and the biggest stands as you go out of the Town in the Road to Ispahan The Persians will
There are an abundance of Silk-Weavers in Cachan that are very good Workmen which make all the best purfl'd Sattins mix'd with Gold and Silver that come out of Persia. There they also coyn Money and make Copper-vessels which they vend in great quantities at a good distance off The Market-houses are very fair ones and well vaulted the Inns large and convenient but there was one among the rest which was very magnificent near the King's Gardens at the entry of the City As well the Inn as the Gardens were made by the order of Sha-Abas the first of that Name who was at a vast charge The Inn is above a hundred Paces square built of Brick two Stories high containing twenty-six vaulted Chambers of a reasonable bigness It was a Structure too fair to be so little regarded as now it is being much faln to decay In the middle of the Court was a Fountain to receive Water which is spoil'd The Persians and Turks are of that bad humor rather to build new Houses than to repair old Buildings For which reason they have since built at Cachan four or five Inns as fair and commodious as that of Sha-Abas This Custom is grown to that height that the Children are so far from taking care to repair the old Houses where their Parents liv'd that they will not so much as live in them after their decease covetous of the honour of building Houses for themselves Before we leave Cachan you must take notice that as you travel from that City to Guilan you cannot avoid travelling thorough Plains for twelve hours together which are all pure Salt and there is nothing to be met with by the way but one Cistern nor can the Water which is in it be otherwise than very bad Leaving Cachan you cross a Plain of three Leagues after which you enter in among the Mountains where you come to a very fair Inn of Brick From thence you descend a pleasant Vale where you travel a long time by the side of a River over a very narrow way At the end of the Valley you meet a great Wall which crosses it and joyns the two Mountains together This Wall is above a hundred Paces long above thirty Foot thick and fifty high It was the Work of the Great Sha-Abas whose design it was to stop the Waters that fall from the Mountain and to make a Receptacle for Water in that place to serve his occasions At the foot of the Wall there is a Sluce which being let down keeps in the Water but is pull'd up to let out the Water over all the neighbouring Lands to the Plain of Cachan From this Receptacle to Corou is about two hours travel Corou is a very large Village and well peopl'd in a Soil environ'd with high Mountains and planted with great store of Walnut-trees The Houses consist but of one low Story being built of Flint-stones but the Inn therein is very fair and commodious This Village consists but of one Street but it is almost half a League long and very troublesom in the Winter by reason of a great River that runs through it and the great quantity of Stones that lye in the way All about this Village as in several other places of Persia there are a great number of Shacales which are a kind of Foxes that in the night time make an ugly noise for if but one cry all the rest will make answer and set up a howling From Corou you must travel three Leagues between Mountains after which you have but twelve Leagues to Ispahan It is a continued Plain that extends it self beyond the City and in many places the Soil is very good At every three Leagues end you meet with Inns. The first is call'd Achaha-Agakamala the second which is the half-way between Corou and Ispahan is call'd Michiacour This place consists not only of one Inn for there are many others so that it resembles a large Village From Michiacour you come to Aganura another Inn but ill built and from Aganura after you have travel'd three Leagues through a fat and fertil Country you come to Ispahan CHAP. VII Of the Road from Smyrna to Ispahan through Natolia SMyrna is at this day for Trade whether it be by Sea or Land one of the most celebrated Cities of all the Levant and the greatest Market for all sorts of Commodities which are transported out of Asia into Europe or out of Europe into Asia Hither all the Western Fleets are most regularly bound that came formerly no farther than Ligorn and from whence at times most regularly appointed the fairest Caravans set out This City lyes in 50 Degrees of Longitude and 38 Degrees 45 Minutes of Latitude at the bottom of a Gulf in the Archipelago which is seven Leagues in length upon the right side of the Isthmus which begins to form the Peninsula of Clazomene right against the Iland of Schio It lyes in that part of the Lesser Asia which the Greeks possess'd under the Name of Iconium at a distance almost equal between Ephesus and Sardis and was one of the seven Churches mention'd in the Revelation of St. John It is at this day a great City built like an Amphitheater upon the descent of a Hill that looks toward the Summer-West But it is neither so great nor so beautiful as formerly it was as may be easily conjectur'd by the Ruines of certain Edifices that remain upon that Hill which from the middle to the top where the ancient City stood are altogether uninhabited There are also to be seen the Walls of a fair Castle and above that the Ruines of an Amphitheater where they say St. Polycarp was expos'd to fight with Lions This Amphitheater was not in the form of those other which are usually round for it contain'd but half a Circle being left open to the Sea-side The Turks have almost quite destroy'd it making use of the Stones to build a Fort two Leagues from the City upon the Gulf where the passage is very narrow which the Ships are forc'd to salute as they enter in and to speak with when they sail out Moreover that they might not be put to send for Stones a-far off they consulted whether they might not make use of the Stones of the Christians Monuments as also of those of the Jews which are near the Shore But they took very few whether out of kindness to the Tombs or whether they did not think them so proper for use as the Stones of the Amphitheater This Castle had not been long built but upon an occasion very remarkable In the last Wars of the Turks with the Venetians the Ottoman Fleet having been beaten in the Archipelago the Grand Signor resolv'd to re-fit another to Sea and thereupon sent to all the parts of his Empire where he knew any English or Holland Vessels usually were wont to ride to solicit them to serve him for his Pay More particularly he aim'd at those Vessels which were in Smyrna where there
Governour of the Place more civil than usually the Turks are accustom'd to be made us very welcom In the Evening one of our Janizaries had quarrel'd with one of our Servants who thereupon had beaten him and therefore he complain'd to the Fellow's Master who not giving him that satisfaction which he desir'd thereupon the Turk study'd to be reveng'd upon the whole Company For this reason upon some pretence or other he went before the better to bring about his design We staid till the Morning and then departed early from Scalanova and by Noon we came with good Stomachs to the Mosquee near Ephesus where we had been the day before And some of the Company thought it a very convenient place to dine in i' the shade thereupon we sent for our Provisions with a Boracho of Wine and another of Water and fell to eating in the Passage into the Mosquee not dreaming any harm We had not been long at it when we perceiv'd two or three Turks about two hundred Paces off who came from a Village very near to the Mosquee I knowing the custom of the Country better than they told them that they were certainly coming to pick a quarrel with us and therefore caus'd them to hide the Bottle of Wine immediately for it was then the Turks Ramezan or Lent during which time Wine is strictly forbidden These two ill-contriv'd and ill-clad Fellows were the Janizaries of the place whom the Cadi had sent upon the information of our Janizary who knowing we had eaten in the same place before as indeed we had done made no question but we would do so again thinking to surprize us as we were drinking Wine in a place which they esteem Sacred and by consequence was among them accounted an act of Sacriledge Christian Dogs cry'd they when they came near us to eat and drink in a Mosquee and profane a holy place as you do at a time that renders the offence more criminal No cry'd I answering for the rest we drink no Wine we drink nothing but Water and you may tast it said I to him that was the most busie with that I caus'd a Glass to be pour'd out and giv'n him and I gave one of the Turks a private wink who understanding it was a promise of gratuity turn'd about to his Comrades and cry'd 'T is very true they drink no Wine However in regard they had Orders to bring us before the Cady there was no contending Thereupon I and three others undertook to and answer for all the rest The Cady revil'd us as bad as the Janizary at first but he was not only surpriz'd but very much troubl'd when they all unanimously affirm'd that we drank no Wine believing they were confederates with us But I had cunningly slipt eight Ducats into the Hand of the Turk to whom I had made a sign with my Eye who over-joy'd at so plentiful a gratuity had over-perswaded his Comrades not to say any thing against us The Cady though he did not like their Testimony yet call'd for Coffee for us according to the custom of the Country and sent us to his Lieutenant who having been often greas'd in the Fist by the Smyrna-Merchants receiv'd us very kindly and told us that the Cady was but newly come to his Place and was needy however a small matter would content him Thereupon we gave the Lieutenant twenty-five Ducats who most certainly went snips with the Cady and so return'd us to our Company who were much afraid we would not have come off so We were resolv'd to return to Smyrna not the same way we came and so we took another Road which was a very pleasant way partly over firm Sands and partly thorough Meadows where we met with several narrow Dikes very well Pav'd Then we cross a rugged high Mountain and lay in a Mahumetan Barn The next day we return'd to Smyrna having finish'd our small Journey to Ephesus in five days When we told the Consuls how the Janizary had betray'd us they made their Complaint to the Janizary Aga and the Cady who for his punishment put him out of the Consul's service which is an advantageous Employment For besides that the Consul's Janizaries are exempt from the Duties of War they are well plac'd for there is never a Merchant that is not beneficial to them some way or other especially at good times as new-years-New-years-day and other Festivals Nor could the Janizary have been more severely punish'd for the Turks love Money above all things in the World But to return to our matter The Rendezvouz of all the Caravans is generally two Leagues from the City near a Town call'd Pongarbachi The day of their setting out being fix'd every one provides himself for his Journey and meets the Evening before at the place appointed to be ready at the hour From Smyrna to Tocat is thirty-five days journey with the Caravan and the last time I went we made it thirty-eight from Pongarbachi The first day we travel'd eight hours through a Country whose prospect was not unpleasing leaving some Villages more than a League from the Road and we lodg'd in a Park near the River Pactolus which is a small River the Sand whereof shines and is of several colours Which caus'd Antiquity to call Pactolus Golden-Sanded It falls from the Mountain Tinolus and after it has water'd the Territory of Sardis mixes with the River Hermus that throws itself into the Archipelago through the Gulf of Smyrna The Mouth of it is not above two or three Leagues from the City toward the North. The next day in six hours we came to Durgout a little City in a Plain All Christians that live not in the Territories of the Grand Signor and pass that way once a Year pay Carrage or a Tribute of four or five Crowns but the Franks are exempt both at Durgout and over all Turkie There resides a Basha in this City and we were constrain'd to stop there a whole day because the Caravan that comes from Persia arriv'd at that time so that they were forc'd to change their Camels The third day after five hours travel in extremity of Heat we came to lodge near a paltry Village The fourth day we travel'd six hours and stop'd near to a small River In the Morning we pass'd over the Ruines of the ancient Sardis the Capital City of Lydia and Seat of King Croesus There were still to be seen the Ruines of a large Palace and two fair Churches with a great number of Pillars and Corniches of Marble This City having held out six Years against the Army of Temur-leng who besieg'd it so soon as he had taken it in revenge he utterly destroy'd it There is a Village near Sardis of the same Name where stood the City which was one of the Seven Churches mention'd in the Revelation The fifth day we rode for seven hours through a Country but ill manur'd and took up our Stage in a Plain upon the side of a
last day of our being in the Desert we met after some time with the ruines of some houses on both sides the way which made us conjecture that some great City had stood formerly in that place At length we came to Balsara which I shall describe in another place While I stay'd at Balsara which was about three weeks an Ambassador from the Great Mogul arriv'd there who from Constantinople went to Bagdat to congratulate the Grand Signor for the Conquest of that City which he had taken in so short a time The Emperour presented him with three stately Horses and a little Watch the Case whereof was set with Diamonds and Rubies But the Ambassador not knowing what belong'd to that little Engin winding it up the wrong way broke the string Coming to Balsara he sent to the Carmelites to desire them to mend his Watch for he fear'd the loss of his head should he return to his Master and not shew him the Watch entire It wat at their House that I then lay and therefore not knowing what to do with it they desir'd me to shew my skill Thereupon I put on a new string But the Ambassador when he understood to whom he was beholding though it were but a trifle profer'd me all the service and kindness imaginable Thereupon the Carmelites and Augustin Fryars desir'd me to request of the Ambassador in their behalf that he would obtain the Great Turks protection for them in case he took Balsara that their Houses and Churches might be preserv'd which I did and obtain'd by his means full protection from the Grand Visier But they had no need of it for the Turks did not make any attempt upon Balsara hearing that the Persians were advancing besides that the rainy season was at hand which will not permit an Army to keep the Field So that had Bagdat held out eight days longer the Grand Signor would have been constrain'd to have rais'd the Siege Having spoken of the Arabian Horses I must needs say that there are some that are valu'd at a very high rate The Mogul's Ambassador gave for some three four and six thousand Crowns and for another he offer'd eight thousand Crowns but the Horse would not be sold under ten and so he left it When he was got home into the Indies and had presented the Mogul those Horses which he had carry'd along with him being very lovely Creatures he told his Master how he had offer'd eight thousand Crowns for a Horse more beautiful than any of them but because the Owner would not let him go under ten he left him The King incens'd that his Ambassador had stood for so small a Sum when it was for one of the greatest Monarchs in the World upbraided the poorness of his Spirit and banish'd him for ever from his presence into a Province far distant from the Court Thereupon the King wrote to the English to buy him the Horse who accordingly did so and brought him to Surat where the Governour re-paid them their Money But the Horse dy'd at Brampour Nor must I forget that while I was at Balsara twice there flew by such a prodigious number of Locusts that a-far-off they appear'd like a Cloud and darkn'd the Air. They pass by Balsara four or five times in the year the Wind carrying them into the Desert where they alight and most certainly dye Should they not be thus wind-driv'n there could nothing live upon the Earth in some parts of Chaldea They swarm all along the Persian Gulf and when the Vessels come to Ormus at the time of the year there are little Shops where people sell Locusts fry'd in Butter to those that love that sort of Diet. Once I had the curiosity to open the Belly of a Locust six Inches long and found therein seventeen little ones that stirr'd whence it is easie to guess how those Insects come to be so numerous especially in hot Countries There are several Barks that go from Ormus to furnish both sides of the Persian Gulf where the people eat neither Bread nor Rice I agreed with the Master of one of these Barks and made my agreement that the Bark should not be above half laden for generally they lade them too deep and in foul weather they are forc'd to throw half the Freight over-board to save the rest From Balsara to the mouth of the River Euphrates it is reck'nd to be twenty Leagues of Fresh-water We staid seven whole days for a Wind which proving favourable we came to Brander-ric in forty-eight hours This is the place where you must land if you intend for Persia unless you are bound for Ormus Brander-ric consists only of five or six little Fishers Hutts which Hutts are only Hurdles set one against another and cover'd over where they and their Families live To the same place come Asses lad'n with Dates which I was forc'd to hire for want of Horses We were six days upon the Road from thence to Cazerom This is a Mountainous Country where there is Wood enough but you must lodge in the Fields for there are no Inns upon the Road. The way is pleasant in some places along the Banks of several Rivulets and through verdant Groves stor'd with great quantities of Turtles We kill'd a good many which we eat part with Pilaw instead of Henns some we rosted making Sticks to serve for Spits Cazerom is a little City ill built where there is but one Inn and that none of the most inviting to Strangers neither From Cazerom to Schiras it is five days journey The Road lyes over very craggy Mountains which had been impassable but for the Liberality of Ali-Couli-Kan Governour of Schiras He made Ways where there were none before and joyn'd Mountains together by Bridges in Countries which otherwise had been inaccessible In the midst of the Mountains is a wide gap or discontinuance from whence a Plain extends it self of about twenty Leagues in circuit It is inhabited by Jews only who are Silk-Weavers In these Mountains you meet with Tents where the Chaldeans sojourn that come for cool Air and Pasturage in the Summer Coming to Schiras I took Horse there for Ispahan where I arriv'd in nine days The Country over which you travel between these two Cities is part Plains part Mountains part wild and part manur'd Three days journey from Schiras you pass the Mountain of Mayen a little City where there is nothing worthy observation Two days journey from thence you enter upon the Plains of the Province of Cuscuzar where the King of Persia keeps his Race-Horses The next day I arriv'd at Yesdecas where the best Bread in Persia is made This is a little City upon a Rock wherein there is a very fair Inn at the foot whereof runs a little River that glides into the Valley wherein grows that excellent Corn which is utter'd in Bread from that City In three days I went from Yesdecas to Ispahan This was the first Road from Aleppo to Ispahan
CHAP. IV. Of the Road from Aleppo to Ispahan through Mesopotamia and Assyria which I travel'd in my third Voyage to the Indies I Departed from Paris in my third Voyage to the Indies upon the sixth of December 1643 and went to Ligorn where I found the Dutch Fleet ready to set Sail for the Levant The Vessel wherein I embark'd seeming rather a Man-of-War than a Merchant-Man We pass'd through the Channel of Messina and lay there at an Anchor four days before the City From thence passing by the Morea we enter'd into the Archipelago where the Fleet parted according as every Ship was bound Our Ship sayl'd directly for the Port of Alexandretta but though the Wind were favourable we were stop'd for some time by a Pirate that met with us off the Eastern Point of Candy We endeavour'd to have got clear of him but the Pirate gaining upon us we made ready Thereupon the Pirate gave us three Broad-sides that went over the Ship without doing us any harm which we answer'd by as many from our Ship the first whereof brought his Fore-mast by the Board and the third Shot went through the Fore-castle and kill'd him some Men as far as we could discern At that very instant one of our Mariners cry'd out from the Top-mast-head A Sail from the South Thereupon the Pirate left us and made Sail after her and we glad of such an escape pursu'd our Voyage to Alexandretta where we happily arriv'd from whence I took Horse for Aleppo as I have already describ'd The sixth of March I departed from Aleppo in the company of two Capuchin Friars Father Raphael and Father Yves and a Venetian whose name was Dominico de Sanctis From Aleppo to Bi r where you cross the Euphrates it is four days journey for the Horse Caravan The Country is well wooded and well manur'd The seventh of March the great Rains that fell hinder'd us from getting to the usual Stage so that we could not gain Telbechar another Town where there is no Inn which constrain'd us to stop a League on this side and to go to a Cave that was able to contain three hundred Horse This is a Cave where the Bedouins or Feeders of Cattel thereabouts oft retire who live after the manner of the Arabs either in Rocks or in poor Hutts The Cave has been hollow'd from time to time there being several Niches in it like little Chambers Our Caravan-Bashi fearing some Ambuscade rode thither before to view the place but finding it empty and free we rested there that night and the next night came to lye at Mezara which is only a small Village without an Inn Neither was there any thing remarkable upon that Road. Only that near the Cave in the Mountain there is very good Water And formerly upon the Mountain stood a Castle of which some ruines are still remaining From the top of the Mountain there is a fair Prospect as far as you can see over very fair Plains on every side and in several places very good Land water'd by divers Channels which are brought from the River Euphrates All the Rivolets also that you cross from Aleppo to Bi r come from the same River The fourth day after we parted from Aleppo being the ninth of March we came to the banks of Euphrates Bi r is on the other side of the River and because that sometimes the Goods cannot be unladen all in a day there is a fair and large Inn to defend the Merchants from the Bedoüins which would else disturb and rob them were not they and their Goods in that manner secur'd You cross the Euphrates in large Ferry Boats and as soon as you are got over the other side of the River the Customer and his Officers comes and tells the Bales and writes down the names of the Merchants to whom they belong The Caravan does not lye in the Town which is built like an Amphitheatre upon the brow of a very craggy Mountain but passes forward over a scurvy Road to an Inn upon the top of the Mountain Near the Inn there are several Chambers cut out of the Rock where they that cannot get room in the Inn are forc'd to lye That Evening the Custom-Officer comes to receive his duties being two Piasters upon every load of Goods whether upon Horse or Mule though the Mules carry more than the Horses and half a Piaster for every Beast that carries Provisions But for Saddle Horses or Mules there is nothing demanded The Bi r or Berygeon as the Natives call it is a large City for an Eastern City scituated upon the brow of a Hill Below upon the River stands a Castle that declares its Antiquity it is half as long as the City but narrow and without any other Fortification saving only a Tower that scours the River in which there are eight or nine pitiful Culverins In the highest part of the Town stands another Castle where the Governour resides who is an Aga whom some call a Basha having under him two hundred Janizaries and four hundred Spahi's The City is ill built as are the most part of the Cities of Turkie But there are an extraordinary plenty of all things excellent Bread good Wine and great store of the best sort of Fish The tenth day after we had travel'd elev'n hours in the first Lands of Mesopotamia that lyes between the two Rivers Euphrates and Tigre which at present they call Diarbek we came in the evening to Sharmely This is a very good Town with a fair Inn and Baths round about it About twice Musquet-Shot from thence stands a Mountain alone by it self like Montmartre near Paris Round about it are Plains and at the top of it stands a Fortress with a Garrison of two hundred Spahi's by reason that the Arabs sometimes cross Euphrates and make incursions upon that side In the year 1631 the Grand Vizier returning from Bagdat where he had lost the greatest part of the Grand Signor's Army not being able to take the City fearing the loss of his head if he return'd to Constantinople and knowing himself to be in great esteem among the Souldiers resolv'd to quarter himself upon this Mountain and to erect a Fortress to secure himself from the tempest that threaten'd him No doubt but'l if he could have brought about his design he might have made himself Master of all Mesopotamia and would have put the Grand Signor to a great deal of trouble For if you intend for Aleppo whither it be from Tauris Mossul or Bagdat unless you travel thorough the Desert you must pass through Sharmely under the command of this Fortress for Provision and Waters sake The work was gone so far forward that there was a good defence rais'd and the Vizier had already enclos'd all the Mountain together with the Inn with a Wall almost twenty foot thick and three fathom high when he was strangl'd by those in whom he most confided the Grand Signor having gain'd them either by
and usually there are about three thousand in the City and the Towns adjoyning The Keys of the Gates of the City and the Bridge-Gate are in the custody of another Aga who has under him two hundred Janizaries There are also six hundred Foot-men who have their particular Aga and about sixty Cannoneers who were at that time commanded by an expert Artist that went by the name of Signor Michaël who pass'd for a Turk though he were born in Candy He put himself into the Grand Signor's service when he went to besiege Bagdat in the year 1638. Though the Turk had the good fortune to carry the City in a small time not so much by virtue of the Breach which Signor Michaël had made in the Wall as the Sedition and Revolt that happen'd at the same instant the Story whereof was thus in short The Kan that sustain'd the brunt of the Siege at first was originally an Armenian and his name was Sefi-couli-Kan He had commanded the City a long time and had defended it twice from the Army of the Turks who were not able to take it before But the King of Persia having sent one of his Favourites to command in his room who had enter'd upon his Command before the Cannon had made the Breach the old Kan finding himself displac'd by the Commission of the new Governour rather chose to dye than survive the Affront which was put upon him To which purpose he sent for his Servants the Officers of the Army his Wife and Son and taking three Cups of Poyson in his Hand he commanded his Wife if ever she lov'd him now to shew the marks of her affection by generously dying with him He gave the same exhortation to his Son and so all three together drank up the Poyson which procur'd their speedy death The Souldiers who had a great love for their Governour having beheld so dismal a Spectacle and knowing the Grand Signor was preparing for a general Assault would not obey their new Kan but began to act like Revolter's and to that purpose they agreed to deliver up the City upon condition they might march away with their Arms and Baggage but the Turks did not keep their words For so soon as the Turks were got into the City the Basha's told the Grand Signor that to weak'n the force of the Persian it was necessary for him to put to the Sword all the Souldiers that were in the City and thereupon there were above twenty thousand massacr'd in cold Blood The Turks had seiz'd upon the Capuchins Mansion but Signor Michaël chief of the Canoneers got it to be restor'd them again As to the Civil Government of Bagdat there is none but a Cady who does all acting even the Mufti with a Shiekelaslon or Tefterdar who receives the Revenues of the Grand Signor There are in it five Mosquees of which two are indifferently well built and adorn'd with Duomo's cover'd with varnish'd Tiles of different colours There are also ten Inns all ill built except two which are reasonably convenient In general the City is ill built there being nothing of beauty in it but the Bazars which are all arch'd else the Merchants would not be able to endure the heats They must also be water'd three or four times a day for which office several poor people are hir'd upon the publick charge The City is full of Trade but not so full as it was when in the hands of the King of Persia for when the Turk took it he kill'd most of the richest Merchants However there is a great confluence thither from all Parts whither for Trade or for Devotions sake I cannot tell because they that follow the Sect of Haly do believe that Haly liv'd at Bagdat Besides all they that are desirous to go to Mecca by Land must pass through Bagdat where every Pilgrim is forc'd to pay four Piasters to the Basha You must take notice that there are in Bagdat two sorts of Mahometans the first are call'd Rafedi's or Hereticks the second Observers of the Law in all things like those at Constantinople The Rafedi's will by no means eat or drink with a Christian and very hardly with the rest of the Mahometans or if they do happ'n to drink out of the same Cup or to touch them they presently wash themselves as believing themselves unclean The others are not so scrupulous but eat and drink and converse with all the World In the year 1639 after the Grand Signor had tak'n Bagdat a Rafedi who was a Carrier of Water not only refus'd to give a Jew to drink who desir'd it of him in the Market-place but abus'd him also in words Thereupon the Jew complain'd to the Cady who immediately sent for him and caus'd his Boracho and his Cup to be brought along with him when he came before him he ask'd for his Cup and gave the Jew to drink and then made the Porter drink also out of the same Cup After that he order'd the Rafedi to be Bastinado'd and this Lesson to be taught him while he was chastising That we are all God's Creatures as well Mahometans as Christians and Jews This has made them less zealous in their Superstition though they are the chiefest part of the Inhabitants of the City As to their Funerals I have particularly observ'd that when the Husband dyes the Wife pulls off all her Head-gear and lets her Hair fall about her Ears then she all besmears her Face with the Soot of a Kettle and having so done frisks and leaps about after such a ridiculous manner as from others would rather produce laughter than tears All the kindred friends and neighbours meet at the House of the deceas'd and stay for the Celebration of the Funeral At what time the Women strive to out-vie one another in a thousand Apish tricks clapping their Cheoks yelling like mad people and then of a sudden setting themselves to dance to the sound of two Drums like those which the Tabor-and-Pipe-Men carry upon which the Women beat for a quarter of an hour Among them there is one more accustom'd to this fool'ry than the rest that fills your Ears with mournful Dinns to which other Women make answer by redoubling their Cries which may be heard at a great distance It would then be a vain thing to seek to comfort the Children of the deceas'd for they seem to be so much beside themselves that they are not in a condition to hear any thing And they are oblig'd to carry themselves in that manner unless they intend to run the reproach of not having any kindness for their Parents When the Corps is carry'd to the Grave abundunce of poor people go before with Banners and Crescents at the ends of Sticks singing most dismal Dirges all the way The Women are not to be at the Interrment who are not to go abroad but only upon Thursdays when they go to the Sepulchers to Pray for the Dead And because that by their Law the
where the people live in little Hutts made of the Branches of Palm-trees From Bagdat to Anna you ride in four days through a desert Country though it lye between two Rivers Anna is a City of an indifferent bigness that belongs to an Arabian Emir For about half a League round about the Town the Lands are very well manur'd being full of Gardens and Country-houses The City for its situation resembles Paris for it is built upon both sides of the River Euphrates and in the midst of the River is an Island where stands a fair Mosquee From Anna to Mached-raba is five days riding and from Mached-raba to Taïba five days more Mached-raba is a kind of a Fortress upon the point of a Hill at the Foot whereof springs a Fountain like a large Vase which is very rare in the Deserts The place is encompass'd with high Walls defended by certain Towers and in which are little Hutts where the Inhabitants keep their Cattel of which there is great store but more Mares and Horses than Cows Taïba is also a fortifi'd place in a level Country or a high Bank of Earth and Brick bak'd in the Sun Near to the Gate a Fountain springs out of the Earth and makes a kind of a Pond This Road is most frequented by those that travel through the Desert from Aleppo or Damas to Babylon or from Damas to Diarbequir by reason of this Fountain From Taïba to Aleppo is but three days journey but these three days are the most dangerous of all the Road for Robbers in regard that all the Country is inhabited only by the Bedouïns or Arabian Shepherds who make it their business only to plunder and steal Now to take the same Road from Aleppo to Ispahan it lyes thus From Aleppo to Taïba days 3 From Taïba to Mached-raba days 5 From Mached-raba to Anna days 5 From Anna to Bagdat days 4 From Bagdat to Bourous days 1 From Bourous to Charaban days 1 From Charaban to Casered days 1 From Casered to Conaguy days 1 From Conaguy to Cassiscerin days 1 From Cassiscerin to another Conaguy days 1 From Conaguy to Erounabad days 1 From Erounabad to Maidacht days 1 From Maidacht to Sahana days 1 From Sahana to Kengavar days 1 From Kengavar to Nahoüand days 1 From Nahoüand to Oranguie days 1 From Oranguie to Comba days 1 From Comba to Consar days 1 From Consar to Ispahan days 1 So that whether you travel from Aleppo to Ispahan or from Ispahan to Aleppo you may easily ride it in thirty days From whence I make this Observation That a man making it but two days more from Alexandretta and finding a Ship ready there to set Sail for Marseilles with a fair Wind he may travel from Ispahan to Paris in two months Another time having an occasion to go from Aleppo to Kengavar and so to Bagdat and from thence so through the Desert at Bagdat I met with a Spaniard that was travelling the same way with whom I luckily met to bear half the Charges of the Guide which as soon as we had hir'd for sixty Crowns we set forward from Bagdat the Spaniard and I and our Arabian who was afoot walk'd about Pistol Shot before our Horses From thence to Anna we met with nothing remarkable but only that we saw a Lyon and a Lyoness in the Act of Generation Whereupon our Guide believing we had been afraid told us that he had met them oft'n but that he never found them do any harm The Spaniard according to the humour of his Nation was very reserv'd and contenting himself with an Onion or some such small matter at meals never made much of his guide whereas I was mightily in his favour in regard there was never a day pass'd wherein he did not receive of me some good business or other We were not above a Musquet Shot from Anna when we met with a comely old man who came up to me and taking my Horse by the Bridle Friend said he come and wash thy feet and eat Bread at my House Thou art a Stranger and since I have met thee upon the Road never refuse me the favour which I desire of thee The Invitation of the old man was so like the custom of the people in ancient times of which we read so many Examples in Scripture that we could not choose but go along with him to his House where he Feasted us in the best manner he could giving us over and above Barly for our Horses and for us he kill'd a Lamb and some Hens He was an Inhabitant of Anna and liv'd by the River which we were oblig'd to cross to wait upon the Governour for our Passports for which we paid two Piasters apiece We staid at a House near the Gate of the City to buy Provisions for our selves and our Horses where the woman of the House having a lovely sprightly Child of nine years of age I was so taken with her humour that I gave her two Handkerchiefs of Painted Calicut which the Child shewing her Mother all we could do could not make her take any Money for the Provisions we had agreed for Five hundred paces from the Gate of the City we met a young man of a good Family for he was attended by two Servants and rode upon an Ass the hinder part of which was Painted red He accosted me in particular and after some Compliments that pass'd Is it possible said he that I should meet a Stranger and have nothing to present him withall He would fain have carry'd us to a House in the Country whether he was going but seeing we were resolv'd to keep our way he would needs give me his Pipe notwithstanding all the excuses I could make and though I told him that I never took any Tobacco so that I was constrain'd to accept of it About three Leagues from Anna we were going to eat among the Ruines of certain Houses and had thought to have lain there 'till midnight when we perciv'd two Arabians sent by the Emir to tell us that he had some Letters which he would put into our own hands to the Basha of Aleppo to which purpose he had order to bring us back There was no refusing so that at our coming into the City the next day we saw the Emir going to the Mosquée mounted upon a stately Horse and attended by a great number of people afoot with every one a great Poniard stuck in their Girdles As soon as we saw him we alighted and standing up by the Houses we saluted him as he pass'd by Seeing our Guide and threatning to rip up his Belly Ye Dog said he I will give ye your reward and teach ye to carry Strangers away before I see them Carry them said he to the Governours House 'till I return from the Mosquée Returning from the Mosquée and being seated in a spacious Hall he sent for us and our Guide whom he threatn'd again for carrying us out of the Town without giving him
arriv'd upon Easter-eve and as we enter'd into the City the great Guns went off round the City in honour of the Resurrection At Rome we all separated according as our Business led us CHAP. VI. Another Road from Constantinople to Ispahan by the Euxin or Black Sea with some Remarks upon the principal Cities thereabouts THere are three Roads yet remaining leading out of Europe into Persia or the Indies That of Constantinople all along the Coasts of the Black Sea that of Warsovia crossing the same Sea at Trebisond and that of Mosco down the Volga which has been amply describ'd by Olearius Secretary to the Embassy of the Duke of Holstein In this and the next Chapter I shall describe the Way from Constantinople all along the Black Sea and that from Warsovia not knowing any person that has hitherto mention'd any thing upon this subject And first of all I will give a short Description of the principal Places that lye upon that Sea as well upon the side of Europe as of Asia with the just distances of one Place from another The principal Cities upon the Black Sea on the Coast of Europe From Constantinople to Varna they count it two hundred Miles four of which make an Alman League miles 200 From Varna to Balshinké miles 36 From Belshinké to Bengali miles 70 From Bengali to Constance miles 60 From Constance to Queli miles 25 Near to this City of Queli the great Arm of Danow throws it self into the Black Sea Here is the grand Fishery for Sturgeon From Queli to Aquerman miles 50 The City of Aquerman belongs to a Kan of the lesser Tartary but it is not the place of his residence for he keeps his Court at Basha-Serrail twenty-five miles up in the Land From Aquerman to Kefet or Kaffa miles 350 This is a great City and a place of great Trade wherein there are above a thousand Families of the Armenians and about five hundred Greeks They have every one their Bishop and several Churches St. Peter's is the biggest very large and very beautiful but it falls to decay because the Christians have not Wealth enough to repair it Every Christian aboue fifteen years of age pays a Piaster and a half tribute to the Grand Signor who is Lord of the City and he sends a Bashae that lives in the ancient City call'd Frink-Hessar However the Kan of the Lesser Tartary extends his Jurisdiction as far as the Gates of Kaffa From Kaffa to Assaque miles 70 Assaque is the last City in Europe belonging also to the Grand Signor By it runs a great River of the same name the other side being in the Territories of the Duke of Muscovy Down this River come the Cossacks that do so much mischief to the Turks For sometimes they come with threescore or fourscore Gelia's which are a kind of Brigantines the bigger sort of which carry a hundred and fifty men the less a hundred Sometimes they divide themselves into two parts one of which makes Havock toward Constantinople the other Ravages the Coast of Asia as far as Trebizond The Coast of Europe bord'ring upon the Black Sea is 861 miles in length The chief Cities upon the Black Sea on the Coast of Asia which is 1170 miles in length From Constantinople to Neapoli miles 250 In this City are made the greatest part of the Galleys and Vessels that belong to the Grand Signor From Neapoli to Sinabe miles 250 From Sinabe to Ouma miles 240 From Ouma to Kerason miles 150 From Kerason to Trebisond miles 80 From Trebisond to Rise miles 100 From Rise to Guni miles 100 The City of Guni belongs half to the Grand Signor and half to the King of Mengrelia with whom he keeps a good Correspondence because the greatest part of the Steel and Iron that is spent in Turkie comes out of Mengrelia through the Black Sea The only good Ports upon the Black Sea from Constantinople to Mengrelia are Quitros Sinabe or Sinope Onnye Samsom Trebisond Gommé The Haven of Quitros is very deep and the Vessels lie shelter'd from the winds but the entrance into it is very bad which only the Pilots of the place or they who have often accustom'd themselves to that Trade can only find out It seems that anciently there had been most stately Buildings round about the Port and several noble Pillars are to be seen all along the shore not to speak of those which have been Transported to Constantinople Near the City toward the South stands a high Mountain whence there flows good store of excellent Water which at the bottom gathers into one Fountain To go from Constantinople for Persia by Sea you must embark at Constantinople for Trebisond and many times for Rise or Guni which are more to the North. They that Land at Trebisond go directly to Erzerom which is not above five days Journey off and from Erzerom to Erivan or Tunis But there are few that will venture upon this Sea where there is no good Anchorage besides that it is subject to prodigious Tempests from which there are very few good Ports to defend them which is the reason it is call'd Cara-denguis or the Black Sea The Eastern people giving to all things mischievous and dangerous the Epithet of Black They that are Bound for Rise or Guni go to Testis the Capital City of Giorgia and thence to Erivan for though the way be bad yet it is far better and smoother than the Road to Tauris The principal places from Teflis to Erivan are these together with their respective distances From Teflis to Soganlouk leagues 3 From Soganlouk to Senouk-kupri leagues 7 From Senouk-kupri to Guilkac leagues 7 From Guilkac to Daksou leagues 6 From Dakson to Achikent leagues 6 From Achikent to Dillou leagues 6 From Dillou to Yazegi leagues 6 From Yazegi to Bicheni leagues 4 From Bicheni to Erivan leagues 2 From Erivan you keep the ordinary Road to Tauris CHAP. VII The Road from Warsow to Ispahan over the Black Sea and from Ispahan to Mosco with the Names of the principal Cities and Islands of Turky according to the vulgar pronunciation and as they are call'd in the Language of the Turks FRom Warsow upon the left hand of the Vistula the ordinary residence of the Kings of Poland to Lublin days 6 From Lublin to Iluove days 5 There all the Bales are open'd and the Customers take Five in the Hundred for their Merchandize From Iluove to Jaslovieer days 12 This is the last City of Poland toward Moldavia where if you sell any quantity of Goods you must pay Five per Cent. From Jaslovieer to Yashé days 8 This is the Capital City of Moldavia and is the Residence of the Vaywood which the Grand Signor sends to govern in the Country There they open all the Bales and there is a Roll of what every Merchant ought to pay which may amounts to Five per Cent. From Yashé to Ourshaye days 3 This is the last City of Moldavia
where there is no Custom to be paid From Ourshaye to Akerman days 4 Here they never open the Bales but they take Four in the Hundred From Akerman to Ozou days 3 Here they never open the Bales but the Custom amounts to Two per Cent. From Ozou to Precop days 5 Neither do they here open the Bales but trust to the Merchant's word and the Customs amount to Two and a half per Cent. From Precop to Kaffa days 5 Nor are the Bales open'd here but the Custom comes to Three per Cent. Thus from Warsow to Kaffa the Journey takes up one and fifty days in the Wagon which is the manner of Carriage in those Countries All the Customs amount to Eighteen and a half per Cent. to which you must add the Carriage and Passage by Sea to Trebizond where you pay three Piasters for every Mules-load and four for every Camels-load Observe by the way that the Armenians do not usually take shipping at Trebizónd but go to another Port more to the West upon the same Coast where they never pay above a Piaster and a half for a Camels-load This Port call'd Onnie is a very good Haven and there is another a little farther off call'd Samson which is no bad one but the Air is unwholsom and dang'rous There is also another Road from Warsow to Trebizond shorter by three days journey From Warsow to Yashé according to the Road already set down days 31 From Yashé to Galas days 8 All Merchandize is Tax'd at this place and the Duties are tak'n at Galas according to the Note which the Merchant brings from Galas Galas is a City of Moldavia From Galas to Megin days 1 The Bales are not open'd here but the Merchant pays three and a half or four per Cent. From Megin to Mangalia days 8 This is one of the four Ports to the West upon the Black Sea and the best of all The three others toward the South upon the Coast are Kavarna Balgik and Varna At Mangalia they demand but half a Piaster for every Bale Crossing from thence to Trebisond you have five days Journey to Erzerom Now to the Road of Muscovy which having been exactly describ'd by Olearius going into Persia I will describe it returning out of Persia. Having led the Reader to Shamaqui I will return home from thence From Shamaqui to Derbent days 7 Derbent which the Turks call Demir-Capi is the last City within the Jurisdiction of the Persians by which there runs a River which is call'd Shamourka From Derbent to Tetarck days 8 By this Town runs a River which is call'd Bocan From Tetark to Astracan they hire small Barks with a dozen Oars All along the shoar the Osiers grow so very thick that they afford shelter for the Barks in fowl weather If the Wind serve they will put up a little Sail and be at Astracan in four or five hours but if they only Row they cannot be there in nine When you Embark upon the Caspian Sea where you only creep along by the shore you must provide your self with Water for the three first days in regard the Water is bitter and ill tasted all along the Coast all that while but for the rest of the Voyage it is very good If you carry heavy Goods you may hire large Boats to save charges When you come to Astracan you unlade your Goods at what time the Officer comes and sealing up every Bale causes them to be sent to the Merchants lodging Three days after the Customer comes to op'n the Bales and takes five per Cent. If the Merchant hap'n to want money and takes it up at Astracan to pay again at Moscow he pays sometimes thirty per Cent according to the rate of Gold Ducats If a Merchant have any Diamonds or any other Jewels and let it be known he pays five per Cent. But if a Merchant have any Jewels or any other rarities and tells the Governour that he intends to carry them to the Grand Duke the Governour sends a Convoy with him either by Land or Water that costs him nothing and moreover sends a Courrier before to the Court to give notice of his coming There is very good Wine at Astracan but better at Shamaqui where I advise the Traveller to provide himself From Astracan to Moscow you take Shipping in great Barques that make use both of Oars and Sails rowing against the Tide and weigh what ever you put aboard to a very Coverlet Generally you pay for every pound fourteen Caya or three Abassi's and a half and an Abassi makes eighteen Sous and three Deniers In Muscovy they reck'n the way neither by leagues nor miles but by Shagerons five of which make an Italian mile From Astracan to Courmija Shagerons 300 From Courmija to Sariza sha. 200 From Sariza to Sarataf sha. 350 From Sarataf to Samarat sha. 200 From Samarat to Semiriskat sha. 300 From Semiriskat to Coulombe sha. 150 From Coulombe to Casan sha. 200 This is a great City with a stout Fortress From Casan to Sabouk-sha sha. 200 From Sabouk-sha to Godamijan sha. 120 From Godamijan to Niguina sha. 280 Niguina is a large and well Fortifi'd Castle From Niguina to Mouron sha. 300 From Mouron to Casin sha. 100 From Casin to Moscow sha. 250 So that from Astracan to Moscow they count it sha. which makes 590 Italian miles 2950 At Sarataf you may go ashore and so by Land to Moscow When the Snow is gone you travel in Wagons but when the Snow lies in Sledges If a man be alone and that his Goods weigh not above two hundred pounds Paris weight they put them into two Bales and laying them upon the Horses back set the man in the middle paying for Carriage as much as from Astracan to Moscow From Sarataf by Land to Inserat days 10 From Inserat to Tymnek days 6 From Tymnek to Canquerma days 8 From Canquerma to Volodimer days 6 Volodimer is a City bigger than Constantinople where stands a fair Church upon a Mountain in the City having been formerly the residence of the Emperours themselves From Volodimer to Moscow days 5 In all days 35 Observe by the way that they never go ashore at Serataf but in case of necessity when the River begins to be Frozen For from Serataf to Inserat is a Journey of ten days in all which time there is nothing to be had either for Horse or Man The Custom is the same at Moscow as at Astracan that is Five per Cent. All the Asiaticks Turks Persians Armenians and others lodge in a sort of Inns but the Europeans lie in a place by themselves altogether The Names of some Cities and places belonging to the Empire of the Grand Signor as they are vulgarly call'd and in Turkish COnstantinople after it was taken by Mahomet the second the twenty-seventh of May 1453. was call'd by the Turks Istam-Bol Istam signifying Security and Bol Spacious large or great as much as to say Great Security Vulgar
Turkish Adrianople Edrené Burse Brousa Belgrade Beligrade Buda Boudim Grand Caire Mesr. Alexandretta in Egypt Iskendrié Mecca Meqquie Balsara Basra Babylon Bagdat Nineveh Moussoul Nisibis Nisbin Edessa Ourfa Tiqueranger Diarbequir Eva-togea Tokat Teve Toupolis Erzerom Shamiramager Van. Jerusalem Koutsheriff Damas Cam. Tripoli in Syria Cam Taraboulous Aleppo Haleb. Tripoli in Barbary Taraboulous Tunis Tunis Algier Gezaiir Candy Guirir Rhodes Rodes Cyprus Kebres Chio Sakes Methelin Medilli Smyrna Izmir Troy Eski Istamboul Lemnos Limio Tenedos Bogge-adasi Negropont Eghirbos The Dardanels Bogaz-ki Athens Atina Barut Biroult Seyde Saida Tyre Sour St. John of Dacres Acra Antioch Antexia Trebizond Tarabozan Sinopus Sinap In the Fortress of Sinopus at the lower part of the Wall there is a Stone to be seen where there is an Inscription in Latin abbreviated with the word Rome in it whence some conjecture may be made that the Romans built it The Mediterranean Sea Akdeniis The Ocean Derijay Mouhiit The Black Sea Kara-Deniis CHAP. VIII Remarks upon the Trade of the Island of Candy and the principal Isles of the Archipelago as also upon some of the Cities of Greece adjoyning with a particular Relation of the present Condition of the Grand Signor's Galleys belonging as well to the Isles as to the Continent Of the ISLAND of CANDY OUT of the Island of Candy Strangers export great store of Wheat and Sallet-Oyl all sorts of Pulse Cheese yellow Wax Cottons Silks but more especially Malmsey wherein consists its chiefest Trade When Vintage draws near the Country-people that are to gather the Grapes wrap their Feet in a piece of a Boar's Skin which they tye together upon the upper part of the Foot with a piece of Pack-thred to preserve their Feet from the violent heat of the Rocks upon which they are to tread Those Skins are brought out of Russia by the Russes that bring Botargo and Caviare to Constantinople where they have a vast vent for it all over Turkie Persia and Ethiopia where they that follow the Greek and Armenian Church eat little or nothing else all the Lent By the way take notice that the Turks make a certain Glew out of Sturgeon which is the best in the World so that whatever is fasten'd with it will rather break in another place than where it is glew'd They make it thus When they have caught a Sturgeon they pull out his Guts and then there remains a Skin that covers the Flesh this Skin they take off from the head to the belly It is very clammy and about the thickness of two Sheets of Paper which they roll as thick as a Man's Arm and let it dry in the Sun When they use it they beat it with a Mallet and when it is well beat'n they break it into pieces and steep it in Water for half an hour in a little Pot. When the Venetians were Masters of Candy they that had committed any Crime which deserv'd Death if they could get out of the Island before they were apprehended went directly to Constantinopole to beg their pardon For you must know that no person but the Ambassador of the Commonwealth of Venice had the Priviledge to pardon Crimes committed in Candy For example when Signor Dervisano was Ambassador for the Commonwealth of Venice at Constantinople a Candiot having a desire to lye with a Woman by force she told him she would sooner eat her Child's Liver than yield to his Lust. Whereupon the Villain enrag'd he could not compass his design took his opportunity kill'd the Child cut out the Liver and made the Mother eat it and then slew the Mother also Upon this he fled to Constantinople to beg pardon of the Ambassador and obtain'd it there But the Ambassador at the same time wrote word to the Governour of Candy to put him to death at his return having only granted him his Pardon to preserve his Priviledge And indeed to speak truth the Candiots are the most wretched people under Heaven Of the ISLAND of CHIO THE City of Chio which gives the Island its Name contains about thirty thousand Inhabitants where there are little less than fifteen thousand Greeks eight thousand Latins and six thousand Turks Among the several Greek and Latin Churches the last of which hath continu'd ever since the time that the Genoeses possess'd the Island there are some indifferent handsom Structures The five principal Latin Churches are the Cathedral and the Churches belonging to the Escolantines the Dominicans the Jesuites and the Capuchins The Turks have also their Mosquees and the Jews their Synagogue Four Miles from the City near to the Sea-side is to be seen a vast Stone which was cut out of some Rock it is almost all round only the upper part which is flat and somewhat hollow round about the upper part and in the middle are places like Seats cut into the same Stone of which there is one higher than the rest like a School-master's Chair and Tradition reports that this was Homer's School where he taught his Scholars In this Island there is such an infinite number of Partridges that the like is not to be found in any part of the World But that which is a greater Rarity is this that the Natives breed them up as we do our Poultry but after a more pleasant manners for they let them go in the fields all the day long and at night every Country-man calls his own sevèrally home to Roost by a particular Note whither they return like a Flock of so many Geese There are great quantities of Damasks and Fustians wrought in the Island of Chio which are transported to Grand Cairo and to all the Cities upon the Coast of Barbary Natolia and particularly to Constantinople Three Leagues from the Island of Chio upon a Mountain to the South there grows a peculiar sort of Trees the Leaves are somewhat like a Myrtle their Branches so long that they creep upon the ground but which is more wonderful that when they are down they rise again of themselves From the beginning of May to the end of June the Inhabitants take great care to keep the Earth under the Tree very clean for during those two Months there issues out a certain Gum from the joynts of the Branches which drops upon the ground this is that which we call Mastick and the Turks Sakes according to the Name which they give the Island The Island produces great store of this Mastick which is spent in the Seraglio of Constantinople where the Women continually chew it to cleanse and keep their Teeth white When the Mastick Season draws near the Grand Signor every year sends a certain number of Bestangi's to take care that it be not exported but be preserv'd for the use of the Seraglio If it be a plentiful year for Mastick the Bestangi's that cull out the lesser sort to sell put it into little Bags and seal it up which Bags being so seal'd are never question'd by the Custom-house Officers The Island also
Stone a League and a half from the City toward the Mountains running in that time six and thirty of our common Leagues or a hundred and eight Miles While he runs there is Kourouk in the Meydan and upon all the Road where he runs and three or four Horse-men that continually ride to and fro to see that there be no deceit in the Chater's Race who when he approaches near the City ride before to give notice of his coming Every time he starts and returns the Drums and Trumpets sound at the end of the Race there stand several persons with Arrows in their Hands and ev'ry time he comes to the Stone they give him an Arrow which he carries back every course to Ali-Capri Every time he returns the Curtisans rub him and make much of him All the time he runs he eats nothing but drinks Sherbet now and then If he acquit himself well which appears by the number of Arrows brought back he is admitted a Master by the approbation of the King's Foot-men who are superior to all the rest The Kans or Governours of Provinces run their own Chaters with the same Ceremonies and in the same manner The Fortress of Ispahan is nothing at all considerable It joyns to the Wall upon the South side of the City and is twice as long as broad but without any defence in the world unless it be of some pitiful Towers made of Earth Here it is that the King keeps all the Rarities which he has purchas'd or that has been presented to him For as to his main Treasure I believe it consists chiefly in Gold-Plate Within the Fortress there is a large Field sow'd every year with Rice and Corn hard by which stands the House of the Capuchin-Friars Ispahan in general unless it be the Meydan and some few arch'd Streets where the Merchants live is more like a great Village than a City the Houses standing at a distance one from the other with every one a Garden but ill look'd after not having any thing in it perchance but only one pitiful Tree true it is that they begin to build better of late days but it is without the City As for the Women 't is not a pin matter whether they live out of the City or within in regard they never stir out of doors and as seldom go a-foot The Meydan or great Piazza of Ispahan was the contrivance of the great Sha-Abas who had never done it if a great Prince of the ancient Race of the Kings of Persia had not refus'd him the old Meydan with several Priviledges and the House that stood by it Thereupon he design'd this new Piazza to draw off the Merchants and to spoil the old Market-place by their departure from that quarter of the City which is less inhabited at this day It is not far from this old Meydan that the Austin-Friars on the one side and the Carmelites on the other have their Habitations There are also two sides of that Meydan entire under the Portico's where sit only such people as sell Herbs Fruit and Victuals the other two sides are almost faln to decay but when it was all standing it was as handsom as the new one and it is to be wonder'd that the Prince who built it did not choose the place where Sha-Abas has built his as being near the Water and consequently far more convenient The great Meydan then is a place about seven hundred Paces long and between two and three hundred broad It has Buildings upon all the four sides it lyes in length directly North and South the Fronts are every one Portico'd and Terrass'd at the top and on the City-side are little Chambers nine or ten Foot high which fall very much to decay being only built of Brick bak'd in the Sun They are inhabited the greatest part of them by the most infamous Curtisans of the City At some Paces distance from the Portico's is a Channel which is pav'd with stone and runs round about the Piazza Sha-Abas caus'd several Trees to be planted by the side of it but both the Channel and the Trees being altogether neglected are faln to decay besides that the smell of the Water in the Summer time is very noysom In the midst of the Piazza stands a kind of a May-Pole or Mast of a Ship where the people exercise shooting at Birds When the King comes to shoot they set a Cup of Gold upon the top of the Mast which he is to strike down with an Arrow To which purpose he must ride full speed nor is he permitted to shoot 'till after he has past the May-Pole turning himself upon the crupper of his Horse a remain of the ancient custom of the Parthians that kill'd their Enemies flying The Cup belongs to him that strikes it down and I have seen Sha-Sefi Grandfather of the present King in five Courses strike down three Cups From this Mast or May-Pole down to the great Mosquee they sell nothing but Wood and Charcoal from the same Pole to the Sun-Dial upon the North-side are none but such as sell old Iron-Tools old Harness for Horses old Coverlets and other old Brokery-ware as in our Long-Lane From the Pole to another Mosquee to the South just against the Sun-Dial is the place for all the Poulterers The rest of the Piazza toward the Palace is always kept clean without any Shops because the King comes often abroad in the Evening to see Lions Bears Bulls Rams Cocks and all other sort of Creatures fight which are brought thither The people of Ispahan as in many other Cities are divided into two parts the one call'd Hedari the other Nametlai and upon all the Combats of Beasts before-mention'd there are always very considerable Wagers laid between these two Tribes The King who is a neuter gives to the Master of the Beast that gets the upper hand sometimes five sometimes ten sometimes twenty Tomans according to the value of the Wager laid and he that wins the Wager presents the Master of the the Beast likewise They have also a Sport at breaking of Eggs by knocking the ends one against another some of which Eggs come to three or four Crowns The Hens that lay them are bred in a Country which they call Sausevare about a hundred leagues from Ispahan toward the Province of Karason the Cocks of which Country are bigger and stronger than other Cocks and cost some of them a hundred Crowns There are a sort of Tumblers also that after Dinner set up their Stages in the Meydan and toward the Evening they that play the Maid-Marians come and encompass a square place with a course piece of Calicut and then through another very fine Cloth the Wenches shew a thousand tumbling Tricks and antick Postures When they have done they come and ask the Spectators for Money who give them every one what they think fit Every Friday which is as it were Market-day the Country-folks bring to Town what they have made in the
nothing at noon but a little fruit in season and then in the evening when they leave work they go to the Market and buy for their Families boyld or roast meat of which there is great plenty Therefore are they so exact least so many poor labouring men should be deceiv'd One day a Baker of the City came to the Kan complaining that the Judge of the Government had set too low a price upon bread so that he should be a great loser To whom the Kan made answer that'twas not his business to alter the price bidding him go to the Magistrate that was concern'd But the Baker believing the Kan could do any thing sent him a present of fifty Tomans The Kan seeing the ill design of the Baker to oppress the poor people and the ill opinion he had of him as a seller of Justice commanded him to be carri'd to the Piazza and there to be drub'd upon the soles of his feet till he pay'd the other fifty Tomans which the Kan forthwith distributed to the poor and caus'd the price of bread to be abated instead of raising it CHAP. XIV Of the Manners and Customes of the Persians THe Manners and Customes of the people are usually correspondent to their Religion The Persians never preserve the name of their Predecessors but like the Jews for distinction sake say such a one the Son of such a one When they Circumcise a Child and give him a Name they write three or four Names like Lots in Paper which are drawn by a Child and which the Child draws that is the Name of the Child The women that are barren swallow that which is cut from the Child believing it will make them conceive The Persians are generally very inquisitive after the time to come consulting their Astrologers like Oracles The King has always two or three by him to tell him the good or bad hour There is an Almanac which is sold every year in Persia which they call Tacuim but is indeed an Ephimerides containing the Longitudes and Latitudes of the Planets the Conjunctions and Oppositions and other such things This Tacuim is full of predictions about Wars Sicknesses and Famin. It sets the proper seasons to put on new cloathes to let blood to Purge or travel with many other instructions of the same nature They give great credit to this Tacuim and they that can get one govern themselves in all things according to the Rules there set down Others to know the success of their affairs go to a Doctor of the Law and desire him to open the Al-couran and to tell them the issue of their business Thereupon the Doctor muttering some strange words Alcouran is the Book of the Law so entitl'd for its excellency as we say the Bible opens the Book and if he meets with affirmative commands he declares the undertaking shall prosper If negatives he disswades from the enterprize I remember a Gardiner belonging to the Capuchin Friers would needs go to one of those Moullah's to know whether he should get by an Ox that he was about to buy Whereupon the Moullah assur'd him he should reap great profit by his bargain but quite contrary the Ox dy'd upon his hands within three days to the great astonishment of the Gardiner When a Capuchin tax'd the Moullah for the falsities of his pretended Art the Moullah reply'd that God knew that the Gardiner would spend his Money upon lewd Women and therefore took from him the means and support of his debauchery They also use a sort of divination which is call'd Rambé by even or odd the Masters of which mystery call'd Rammals keep Shops on purpose to delude the people When they see people coming they have persons suborn'd on purpose who holding out their hands shut ask the Rammal what he thinks they have in their hands The Rammal at first seems to be at a stand throwing certain Dice call'd Kiabetain the specks whereof are some even some uneven but when there are people enough gathered together he tells point by point how many specks his fellow-Cheat has in his hands Who counterfeiting astonishment encourages the poor silly creatures that stand gazing to spend something for a lye which they sell them They also make use of the Faal which is to open a Book by numbers even or odd to prognosticate good or bad fortune In their interpretation of dreams the Interpreter foretells the future to him that enquires conformable to what he says he saw in his dream He has a great Book lying before him full of little Pictures and Grotesco-work wherein he strives to shew the people some Fantasm or Apparition which they will tell you they saw in the night These chears are usually practis'd about the Palace where all the idle people flock together as also upon the Road to Zulpha where they lye upon the Road to catch the silly Passengers The Persians are mightily addicted to ill language and foul-mouth'd reproaches So that when two men fall out instead of fighting with their fists they fight with their tongues and curse one another But they never blaspheme God for if they should hear one swear or wish themselves at the Devil they would ery out in an astonishment Is not that Fellow a fool to give himself upon trust to the Devil and renounce Paradise When they would affirm any thing to be true all their Oaths are Ser-azire-sha By the King 's beloved head or Erva pigumbir by the Spirit of the Prophet I remember once at Galata walking with some of the French Embassador's Servants we saw two Turks at Cuffs after they were parted one of them gave the other a thousand curses to which the other reply'd no more than only this I wish said he thy Soul may have no more repose in Paradise than the Hat of a French-man has in this World alluding to out manner of salutation and putting off our Hats so often as we do The Persians are naturally great Dissemblers and Flatterers and they make so their study to acquire esteem and applause They love to give and receive Presents more especially to present the King Which Presents are valu'd and according to the estimate they must send ten per cent to the Serjeant Porter and five per cent to his Deputy which if they do not pay willingly they are fotc'd to pay which I saw the Deputy of the Holland-Company forc'd to do The Luxury and the Expences of the Persians is excessive as I have in several places observ'd And though it be against the Law of Mahomet to make use of Gold or Silver-plate which sets aside that metal only for Commerce and for Money none but the poor observe that Law for the rich make no scruple to transgress it The Persians are very much accustom'd to make mutual Visits one to another at their solemn Festivals and to wish one another good cheer and a merry season The more noble sort stay at home to expect the Visits of
with pretious Stones according to their Quality from which Bonnet falls a veil behind which is very graceful They wear Breeches like the men and their Shooes are almost like theirs The Women of Ormus wear only a single pair of Breeches with a shift over them The Armenian Women wear besides a little Justicoar without sleeves and upon their heads a fine Linnen-Coif ty'd under their chins Their hair is gather'd into a long tress to which they sometimes add more which is false to make a long lock that is done up in a Velvet or Sattin-Case embroider'd and hangs behind down to the wast Handsome Women are very plentiful in Persia as well the tawny as the white For the Merchants that bring both from all parts choose the handsomest they can pick out The white Women are brought from Muscovia Poland Cirassia Mengrelia Georgia and the Frontiers of Tartary The black from the coast of Melinda and the Red-Sea The Persian Women are seen by none but their own Husbands They are very idle in their Houses not so much as looking after any thing of Housewifery Indeed every thing is at the Husband's disposal so that the Women are rather Slaves then Wives They spend their time in taking Tobacco after several fashions When they go to the Baths she 's the Woman that wears the best Clothes and brings the best Collation They that have Slaves cause 'em to rub their arms their legs and their thighs till they fall asleep having no other divertisement in their voluptuous Prison The higher a-man is in dignity the more he glories in having a great number of Wives and Slaves and his absolute power keeps them in order either willingly or by constraint There are two sorts of Eunuchs for the guard of the Sultanesses and the Wives of the Nobility Some are white but they never come neer the Women but are order'd to guard the first doors of the Haram The others are black frightful to look upon and flat-nos'd who attend only upon the Women If there be a necessity for a Woman of Quality to go abroad the Eunuchs go before and behind with Battoons in their hands to make the Corrouk and drive all the people out of the way When the King goes into the Countrey if any one be asleep in the high-way and be perceiv'd before he wakens he is immediately cut to pieces as he lies In the time of Sha-Abbas the Second one of the Fellows that help'd to set up the Womens Tents being weary fell asleep in one of them upon the ground When the Women came they seeing a man asleep set up a shrieking upon which the Eunuchs coming in wrapt up the Fellow in the Carpet as he lay and carrying him into the Fields buried him alive Carpet and all CHAP. XV. Of the Diseases of Persia and the manner of curing them THE Persian Children are seldom sick of the small-Pox but in lieu of that they are very subject to Scald-pates till ten or twelve years old Which it may be proceeds from their shaving so young and so often for they shave at five or six months old and two or three times a week As to the Pox the Persians would be more troubl'd with it but that the dry Air of the Countrey is an enemy to it besides they never lye twice with the fame Woman without going to the Bath to sweat out the venom of that distemper As for the Gout or Gravel the Persians know not what it means But the Armenians are troubl'd with the latter especially those that in their youth accustom'd themselves to drink more Wine then Water To those that are troubl'd with the Cholick they usually prescribe the eating of Horse-flesh and I have seen many cur'd by that means Generally the Persians especially the rich or those that have wherewithal to live handsomely are much less subject to Sickness then the people of Europe Some take the reason to be because of their China-drink which they drink every Spring boyling an ounce in three pints of water and so continuing the Dose for ten or twelve days one after the other all which time they keep a very moderate diet and eat no fruit for a month together This drink causes the Patient to sweat and the sweat being wip'd off dyes the Linnen nay the very walls of the Chamber of a yellow colour As for any method of Physick they have none in Persia. For the Dysentery they take sower Curdl'd-milk with Rice unbruis'd boyl'd in water to which they add a little Rhubarb powder'd At the beginning of a Disease they forbid Bread and instead thereof prescribe Rice boyl'd in Hen-broath or sometimes in fair water For diet is the chief Remedy which the Physitians prescribe in all Diseases and account most soveraign Indeed the remedy is well prescrib'd in many distempers however it is by them never prescrib'd according to reason or method but only according to custom whereby it often comes to pass that they forbid that which is good and prescribe that which is bad If the Patient be so poor as not to be able to send for a Physitian two or three men set him upon an Ass with a Scarf about his neck which denotes him to be a sick person and so lead him to the Physitian who presently seels his Pulse lets him Blood and by and by taking his Pen in his hand in a small piece of Paper prescribes more Hog-wash at one stroke then three mens bellys are able to contain When a Physitian is call'd to a Consultation he pretends not to take any Money But his Atar or Apothecary finds a way to have the Doctor satisfi'd for his pains They never permit the Sick to change their Linnen how nasty soever it be When they come home to the Patient though they find him ready to expire they tell the Servants that he will certainly recover but then on the other side they go to the Parents or Kindred of the Patient and tell them that the Patient is in a desperate condition and cannot live By this means they save their credit for happen what will they have told truth either of the one side or the other CHAP. XVI Of the division of Time among the Persians THE Persians divide the natural day into four parts The first is from Sun-rising to Noon the Second from Noon to Sun-set The third from Sun-set till Midnight and the fourth from Midnight till Sun-rise At Midnight Morning and Sunset they make a most horrible din in every great City of Kettle-Drums Haut-boys Latten-Basons and other Instruments upon which there are certain men hir'd to play for a quarter of an hour together in some place where they may be heard all over the City They have also great Cornets about seven foot long with deep mouths which may be heard above half a league But these Cornets are never us'd but in Cities where the Kans or Governours reside These Instruments are also always employ'd at their great Solemnities as
are a great number of Niches that are opposit to the Pillars and were certainly the places where the ancient Persians put their Idols Thence you come to Tche-elminar where are to be seen a great many old Columns some standing and some lying upon the ground and some ill-shap'd Statues with little four-square dark rooms All which together easily perswades me who have well consider'd the principal Pagods of Iudia that Tche-elminar was only a Temple formerly dedicated to Idolatrous worship And that which confirms my opinion is that there is no place more proper for an Idolatrous Temple then this by reason of the abundance of water Besides that the dark Rooms could be no other then the Chambers for the Priests and where the Rice and Fruits that were the feigned nourishment of the Idols were the better secur'd from goats and flies Leaving Tche-elminar you come to lye at a Village half a league farther where is very good Wine From thence to Schiras is a hard days journey especially when the Snow begins to melt for then the Road looks like a little Sea CHAP. XXI Of the City of Schiras THE City of Schiras lies in 78 degr 15 min. of Longitude and 29 deg 36 min. of Latitude It is seated in a Plain that extends it self about four leagues from the North to the South and from the West to the East about five leagues Upon the South-east there is a Lake of salt water four leagues in compass leaving the Plain as you travel to the South you pass between two Mountains which are not so close but that they leave room for certain pleasant Valleys a league and a half wide The Soil about Schiras is good and fruitful and it is particularly famous for the most excellent Wines of all Persia. As for the City it self there is nothng handsome in it for it looks rather like a Town half ruin'd then a City Formerly it was begirt with walls of Earth which are now utterly decaid The Houses are of the same Earth dri'd in the Sun and whiten'd over with lime so that when it happens to rain when the Earth comes to be well moisten'd the Houses fall of themselves Only the Colledg which Iman-Kouli-Kan built and some of the Mosquees are are of Brick and the best of those Mosquees is call'd Sha-Shiraque which out of a particular devotion is kept somewhat better in repair However there is nothing in it worth taking notice of Upon the Northeast side the City runs within a quarter of a league of the Mountain and from a Stone-bridg as you go out of the City to the foot of the Mountain is a long Street in a streight line where there stands a Mosquee built by Iman-Kouli-Kan Without it appears fair enough but within it falls to ruine There is an Octogonal Piazza before the Gate and in the middle of the Piazza an Octogonal Vase which is fill'd by a little stream that runs through the Street from the Mountain Both sides of the Street from the Mosquee to the Mountain are wall'd in and at certain spaces are great Gates one against another with rooms over them the Windows whereof open into the Gardens behind the walls all along by which runs a row of Cypress-trees in a direct line and in the middle of the Street about two hunder'd paces on this side the Mosquee is another Vase which receives the same water as it runs from the Mountain This Street was made by Iman-Kouli-Kan after he had cut the Mountain at the end of it to shorten the way from Schiras to Ispahan There are in Schiras three or four Glass-houses where they make great and small Bottles to transport the Sweet-waters that are made in the City There are also made the several sorts of Vessels wherein they pickle their fruits of all sorts which they send in great quantities into India to Sumatra Batavia and other places There is no Silk made nor any other manufacture in Schiras only there are some few Chites or Painted-cloaths made there which nevertheless are very coarse and in use only among the meaner sort As you go out of the City upon the North-west side you meet with a long Alley or Walk in three parts whereof are plac'd three Stones which they call Mills At the end of this walk is a Garden call'd Bay-Sha or the King's Garden Over the Gate whereof is a great Room half ruin'd and at the end of a large Walk planted with Cypress-trees stands a neat piece of building but altogether neglected Upon the left-hand whereof is a great Pond pav'd with Free-stone being all the beauties of the Garden which it is true was full of Fruit-trees Roses and Jasmins yet for want of order it look'd like a Wilderness From the Garden to the Hill is a Plain of two leagues long and one broad which is all but one large Vinyard belonging to several persons Beyond the Vinyard rise very high Mountains from whence fall several little Springs that form a River which is call'd Bend-Emir from the name of a Town where the biggest Spring rises This River of Bend-Emir waters the whole Vineyard of Schiras where it never rains from Spring till Autumn which is the reason that in the Summer there is no water in the very Channel next the City Their Wines are the best in Persia but there is not so great a quantity made as people imagin For of all this great Vineyard and in all the places round about the City for four or five leagues together good part of the Grapes are dri'd and a greater quantity pickl'd and of the Wine there are many Vessels full which are burnt for the benefit of the poor Travellers and Carriers who find it a great refreshment to drink it with water Their Wine as all other things is sold by weight and not by measure In the year 1666 a most plentiful year for Wine the Provision of the King's House amounted to 50000 Mens of Keukné or the ancient Men containing nine pound of ours at sixteen ounces to the pound being the only weight for Wine and the King allows as much to the Franks as for his own Houshold The Jews of Schiras who boast themselves of the Tribe of Levi make above a hunder'd and ten thousand Mens it being their chiefest livelihood but the Governour of Schiras knows how to share with them in their profit The whole account of Wine made at Schiras amounts to 200025 Mens or 4125 Tuns at three hunder'd pints to the Tun. In Schiras is an ancient Mosquee wherein is the Sepulcher of a Sadi whom the Persians esteem the best of their Poets It has been a very fair one accompani'd with a large Building which was once a Colledg but it runs to ruine as do also many other Edifices within the City Just against this Mosquee you descend by a pair of Stairs into a large Well at the bottom whereof is a Vase full of Fish which no-body dares to touch it being Sacriledg
bad From Bander Abassi to Lar it is very good and provided with good Inns. From the day that a Merchant takes up mony at Gomron he is bound to return it in three months and the change goes from six to twelve per Cent. When the Goods come to Ispahan or any other place the Merchant is not to touch them till he has pay'd the money which he borrow'd unless the Creditor will trust him farther Some Turkish and Armenian Merchants take up money at Gomron to pay it at Suratt where they take up other money for Ispahan at Ispahan for Erzerom or Bagdat paying the old debt with the new sums which they take up in each place The money taken up at Erzerom is pal'd at Bursa Constantinople or Smyrna Money taken up at Bagdat is pai'd at Aleppo I always made accompt that to take up money at Golconda for Ligorn or Venice at change for change the money returns at the cheapest rate to 95 per Cent. but more oftentimes it amounts to a hunder'd CHAP. XXIV Of the Road by Land from Casbin to Ispahan to the Frontiers of the Territories of the Great Mogul through Candahar THe most usual road from Ispahan to Candahar which the Merchants choose The Persians count the distances of places by Agats that make a large Provence League in regard of the plenty of water which they meet with lies thus From Ispahan to Sakunegi Agats 7 From Sakunegi to Mouchena de Radar 10 From Mouchena de Radar to Nanni 8 From Nanni to Danaraquie 15 From Danaraquie to Basabad 15 From Basabad to Abiger 9 From Abiger to Biabanact 5 From Biabanact to Caseni 5 From Caseni to Samagi 10 From Samagi to Sadarou 15 From Sadarou to Chechme-cha 8 From Chechme-cha to Karte 14 From Karte to Tabas ville 4 From Tabas to Espaque 7 From Espaque to Teoque 7 From Teoque to Talkeaue 6 From Talkeaue to Cors. 10 From Cors to Tesaitan 9 From Tesaitan to Berjan 7 From Berjan to Moti 7 From Moti to Sarbicha 5 From Sarbicha to Mont. 7 From Mont to Dourat 12 From Dourat to Chechmeband 6 From Chechmeband to Zela. 10 From Zela to Fara ville 10 From Fara to Tecourmazetan 6 From Tecourmazetan to Stabe 6 From Stabe to Bacou 4 From Bacou to Dilaram 6 From Dilaram to Chaquilan 4 From Chaquilan to Dexkak 4 From Dexkak to Griche ville 12 From Griche to Kouskienogout 10 From Kouskienogout to Candahar 12 All this while the Men ride upon Horses and the goods are carri'd by Camels The City of Candahar is the chief of one of the Conquer'd Provinces of Persia having been often the occasion of war between the Kings of Persia and India At length Sha Abbas became Master of it the Prince that then raign'd there choosing to put himself under the Protection of the King of Persia rather then of great Mogull but upon this condition that the Governour should be always one of his race And therefore Alimerdan-Kan was the Son of the last Prince of Candahar That Prince left behind him such a vast Treasury that his Plate was all of Gold and he had so much Gold in his Coffers that when he went to the Great Mogul he would not accept of any thing for his maintenance but contented himself with one of the highest Dignities in the Empire which he enjoy'd till his death At Jehanabad he built a most neat House with a fair Garden upon the River He got his wealth in some measure for the greatest part came by Inheritance by the great advantages which he made of the Caravans that then pass'd oft'ner through Candahar then they do now adays For by delaying the Merchants at the Custome-house and by treating them himself and receiving treatments from them again he caus'd them to spend their Provisions which they were forc'd to recruit again at Candahar The Grand Sha Abbas left the peaceable Possession of Candahar to Sha-Sefi his Grand-child In whose time Alimerdan-Kan deliver'd it up to the Great Mogul Sha Abbas the Second retook it in the year 1650. Whereupon Sha-gehan sent his eldest Son to drive him out But though his Army consisted of three hundred thousand men yet the place was so well defended that he lost the best part of his Army before it The next year Sha-jehan sent another Army under the Command of Sultan-Sujah but he had no better success then his Brother Thereupon Begum Saheb Sha-jehan's eldest Daughter and passionately belov'd by him even to Incest bearing the greatest sway in the Kingdom and having a vast Treasure rais'd an Army at her own charges and made Aurengzeb Commander of it After many assaults Aurengzeb discoursing with his Generals one day who should have the honour if he took the City and being told that his Sister would have the honour in regard she had rais'd the Army the Prince either jealous of his Sister or else not loath to give occasion of being envy'd by his Brothers assaulted it no more and when the rains came rais'd his siege A. The Principal Citadel B. Another Citadel C. The Mountain that reach'd to the next Citadel which Sha Sefi cut away after he took the City D. The Governours House E. The Lodgings for the Officers and Souldiers F. The Piazza of the City G. The great street H. The two Causeys that lead to the City I. The Path that leads from the Mersh to the City K. The lesser way that leads from the City to the Citadel Thus I have finish'd the most considerable Observations as well in reference to Turkie as to Persia. I have been curious to understand things and have lookt with a strict eye upon them and I am oblig'd to inform the Reader that he must not travel into Asia in expectation of mending his experience in any of the nobler Arts of Painting Sculpture Goldsmiths work or Turning As for the Coverlets Embroideries Tissues of Gold and Silver which are made in Persia and which we admir'd formerly in France all these give place to our new manufactures Insomuch that the Persians themselves admire the rich goods of Europe and when we carry any thither they are immediately bought up by the King and the Nobility They neither understand any thing of Architecture nor is there any thing in all Asia that equalls the Riches and Beauty of the Loure or of any other of the Kings houses in France which infinitely excell in workmanship all the magnificence of the Eastern Monarchs Which has made me with astonishment admire that so many Travellers have ascrib'd to Persia and other Regions of Asia those beauties for which they were never beholding either to Art or Nature For if all they have said had been true those wonders could never have escaped my sight and I dare assure the Reader that I have describ'd the naked truth of things as really they are The End of the Relations of Persia and of the first Part of Asian Travels THE SIX TRAVELS OF JOHN
much the rather because they do not run so much hazard as at the Custom-houses of Europe For in the Indian Custom-houses if a man be caught in the fraud he is quitted by paying double ten in the hundred instead of five The King comparing the venture of the Merchant to a game at Hazard where he plays quit or double The King had granted to the English Captains that they should not be search'd when they came a-shore But one day one of the English Captains going to Tata one of the greatest Cities in India a little above the Mouth of the River Indou as he was going to pass the River he was stopp'd by the Officers of the Custom-house who search'd and rifl'd him what-ever he could alledg to the contrary They found Gold about him of which he had already carried off several quantities at several times that he had gone from his Ship to the City but they quitted him upon paying the usual Custom The English-man vex'd at such an affront resolv'd to revenge himself which he did after a very pleasant manner He caus'd a sucking-pig to be roasted and putting it together with the dripping and sawce in a China-platter covered with a linnen-cloath he gave it a Slave to bring along after him to the City imagining what would fall out As it pass'd before the Custom-house while the Governors or the Cha-bander and the Mint-Master were sitting in the Divan they fail'd not to stop him and as the Slave went forward with the Plate cover'd they told his Master that he must come into the Custom-house and that they must see what he carried The more the English-man cry'd that the Slave carried nothing that paid any duties the less he was believ'd so that after a long debate he took the Plate from his Slave and carried it himself into the Divan the Governour and the Cha-bander gravely ask'd him why he would not be obedient to the Laws Upon which the English-man replying in a great heat that he carried nothing which paid any duty threw the Pigg among them with such a fury that the Sawce and Pigg flew all upon their Garments Now in regard that Swines-flesh is an abomination to the Mahometans who believe every thing defil'd that touches it they were forc'd to change their Clothes take down the Tapestry of the Divan to pull down the Divan it self and build another not daring to say any thing to the English-man for the Cha-bander and Mint-master are very observant to the Company by whom they reap a great deal of profit As for what concerns the Heads of the Companies as well English as Dutch and their Associates they have so great a respect for them that they never search them at all when they come a-shore though they will not stick to conceal their Gold like particular Merchants and to carry it about them The Trade of Tata formerly very great begins now to decay because the Mouth of the Rivers grows more dangerous and full of shallows every day more than other the Sand-hills having almost choak'd it up The English finding they had learn'd the trick of rifling their Clothes studi'd out other little ways and contrivances to conceal their Gold And the fashion of wearing Perriwigs being newly come out of Europe they hid their Jacobus's Rose-Nobles and Ducats in the net of their Perriwigs every time they came a-shore There was a Merchant that had a mind to convey some boxes of Coral into Suratt without the knowledg of the Customers He swam then into the Town some days before the Ship was unladed when it might be done securely before the Customers had any suspition of any thing But the Merchant repented him afterwards the Commodity being spol'd For the water of Suratt River being always thick and muddy there clung to the Coral which had lain a long time in the water a slime like a white crust or skin which was difficult to be got off so that after the Coral was polish'd he lost by it above twelve per Cent. I come now to the Money which goes for currant through the whole extent of the Great Mogul's Dominions and to all the sorts of Gold and Silver which is carri'd thither in Ingots to make profit thereof In the first place you must observe that it is very profitable to buy Gold and Silver which has been wrought to melt it into Ingots and to refine it to the highest purity For being refin'd you pay not for the portage of the Alloy which was mix'd with it before And carrying the Gold and Silver in wedges you pay neither to the Prince nor to the Mint what they exact for Coinage If you carry coin'd Gold the best pieces are Jacobus's Rose-Nobles Albertus's and other ancient Pieces as well of Portugal as of other Countreys and all sorts of Gold that have been coin'd in former Ages For by all those old Pieces the Merchant is sure to gain You may also reckon for good Gold and which is proper to be carri'd thither all the Ducats of Germany as well those coin'd by the several Princes as by the Imperial Towns together with the Ducats of Poland Hungary Swedeland and Danemark and indeed all sorts of Ducats are taken to be of the same goodness The Venetian Ducats of Gold formerly pass'd for the best and were worth four or five of our Sous more than any others but about a dozen years ago they seem to have been alter'd not going now for any more than the rest There are also Ducats which the Grand Seignior coins at Cairo and those of Sally and Morocco But these three sorts are not so good as the others and are not worth so much as they by four Sous of our Money Over all the Empire of the Great Mogul all the Gold and Silver is weigh'd with weights which they call Tolla which weigh nine Deneers and eight grains of our weights When they have any quantity of Gold and Silver to sell the Indians use yellow Copper-weights with the King's mark to avoid cousenage And with these weights they weigh all the Gold and Silver at once provided it amount not to above a hunder'd Tolla's For the Changers have no other weights but from one Tolla to a hunder'd and a hunder'd Tolla's come to 38 Ounces 21 Deneers and 8 Grains As for the Gold and Silver which is not coin'd if there be much they essay it and having put it to the touch they bid to the utmost value to out-vye one another In regard there are some Merchants that have above forty or fifty thousand Ducats at a time the Indians weigh them with a weight which is just the weight of a hunder'd Ducats which is also mark'd with the Kings Mark and if the hundred Ducats weigh less than the weights they put in so many little stones till the Scales are even and after all is weigh'd they make good to the Changer the weight of those little stones But before they weigh these Gold-Coins whether they
Minasqui-sera to this Bridg costes 8 Not far from this Bridg it is that they view the Merchants Goods that when they come to Agra they may not be deceiv'd of their duties But more particularly to see whether among the Casks of Fruits pickl'd in Vinegar in pots of Glass there be no flasks of Wine From the Bridg Jaoulcapoul to Agra costes So that from Seronge to Agra it is an hundred and six Costes which are ordinary leagues and from Surat to Agra 339. CHAP. V. The Road from Surat to Agra through Amadabat FRom Surat to Baroche costes All the Countrey between these two Cities is full of Corn Rice Millet and Sugar-Canes Before you enter into Baroche you must Ferry over the River which runs to Cambaya and falls into the Golf that carries the same name Baroche is a great City to which there belongs a Fortress of which there is no use made at this time But the City has been always very famous by reason of the River which has a particular quality to whiten their Cottons which are brought thither from all parts of the Great Mogul's Territories where they have not that convenience In this place are made a great quantity of Baffa's or long and large pieces of Cotton These Cottons are very fair and close woven and the price of these pieces is from four to an hundred Roupies You must pay Custom at Baroche for all Goods that are brought in and carri'd out The English have a very fair House in the City and I remember once that coming thither one day in my return from Surat to Agra with the President of the English presently the Mountebanks came about him and ask'd him if he would see any of their tricks The first thing they did was to light a great fire and to heat certain Iron-chains red-hot and wind them about their bodies making as if they felt a great deal of pain but in truth receiving no harm at all Then they thrust a piece of a stick into the ground and ask'd the Company what Fruit they would have One told them he would have Mengues then one of the Mountebanks hiding himself in the middle of a Sheet stoopt to the ground five or six times one after another I was so curious to go up stairs and look out of a window to see if I could spy what the Mountebank did and perceived that after he had cut himself under the armpits with a Razor he rubb'd the stick with his Blood After the two first times that he rais'd himself the stick seem'd to the very eye to grow The third time there sprung out branches with young buds The fourth time the Tree was covered with leaves and the fift time it bore flowers The President of the English had then his Minister with him having brought him from Amadabat to Christen the Commander of the Hollander's Child to which he had promised to be Godfather The English Minister protested that he could not give his consent that any Christian should be a spectator of such delusions So that as soon as he saw that those Mountebanks had of a dry-stick in less than half an hour made a Tree four or five foot high that bare leaves and flowers as in the Spring-time he went about to break it protesting he would not give the Communion to any person that should stay any longer to see those things Thereupon the President was forc'd to dismiss the Mountebanks who wander about the Countrey with their Wives and Children just like Gipsies and having given them to the value of ten or twelve Crowns they went away very well contented They that are curious to see Cambaya never go out of their way above five or six Costes or thereabout For when you are at Baroche instead of going to Broudra you may go directly forward to Cambaya from thence afterwards to Amadabat But whether it be for business or out of curiosity the latter Road is never to be taken not only because it is the longest way but because of the danger in crossing the mouth of the Golf Cambaya is a great City at the bottom of the Golf that bears its name Here it is that they shape those fair Agats that come from the Indies into Cups Hasts of Knives Beads and other sorts of Workmanship In the parts adjacent to the City they also make Indigo of the same nature of that of Sarquess and it was famous for traffick at the time when the Portugueses flourish'd in India There are to be seen at this day in the Quarter next the Sea very fair Houses which they had built with very rich Furniture after the Portugal manner but now they are uninhabited and fall to decay every day more and more There were then such good Orders observ'd in Cambaya that two hours after day was shut in every Street was lockt up with two Gates which are still to be seen and still they continue to lock up the principal Streets as also the Streets that lead into the Town One of the chief reasons why the Town has lost the greatest part of its Trade is because that formerly the Sea run close up to Cambaya so that little Vessels easily anchor'd by it but afterwards the Sea daily lost in that part so that a small Ship could not ride within five or six Leagues of the City There are a great number of Peacocks in the Indies especially in the Territories of Baroche Cambaya and Broudra The flesh of the young ones is white and well-tasted like ours and you shall see vast numbers of them all day in the Fields for at night they roost upon the Trees 'T is a hard matter to come near them in the day for as soon as they perceive themselves hunted they fly away as swift as a Partridg among the Bushes so that it is impossible for any man to follow them without tearing his Cloaths all to rags therefore are they only to be taken in the night time to which purpose they have this invention They approach the Tree with a kind of a Banner upon which there is a Peacock painted to the life on both sides at the top of the stick are fasten'd two lighted Candles the brightness whereof amazing the Peacock causes him to stretch out his Neck toward the end of the stick to which there is a Rope ty'd with a sliding knot which he that holds the Banner draws when he finds that the Peacock has put his Neck into it But you must have a care of killing either Bird or any other Animal in the Territories of which the idolatrous Raja's are Masters which it is nothing dangerous to do in those parts of the Indies where the Governours are Mahometans and give liberty to Fowl or Hunt It happen'd one time that a rich Persian Merchant passing through the Territories of the Raja of Dantivar shot a Peacock upon the road and kill'd it either out of rashness or ignorance of the Customs of the Country The Bannians incens'd at
the attempt which is accounted among them a most abominable sacriledg seiz'd upon the Merchant and all his Money to the value of 300000. Roupies and tying him to a Tree whipt him in so terrible a manner for three days together that the man dy'd From Cambaya you go to a little Village distant some three Costes where there is a Pagod to which all the Indian Curtisans come to make their Offerings This Pagod is full of a great number of naked Images among the rest there is a large Figure of one that seems to resemble Apollo with his privy parts all uncover'd When the old Curtisans have got together a good sum of Money in their youth they buy young Slaves whom they teach to Daunce and sing wanton Songs and instruct in all the mysteries of their infamous Art And when these young Girls are eleven or twelve years old their Mistresses send them to this Pagod believing it will bring them good fortune to offer and surrender up themselves to this Idol From this Pagod to Chiidabad you have six Costes This is one of the fairest Houses of the great Mogul with a wide Enclosure wherein he has vast Gardens and large Ponds with all the pleasures and curiosity whereof the Genius of the Indians is capable From Chiidabad to Amadabad you have but five Costes and so I return to Baroche and the common Road. From Baroche to Broudra Costes 22 Broudra is a great City standing in a fertil Soil wherein there is a vast Trade for Calicuts From Broudra to Neriade costes 18 From Neriade to Amadabat costes 20 Amadabat is one of the greatest Cities in India and where there is a mighty Trade for Silk-Stuffs Hangings of Gold and Silver and others mix'd with Silk for Saltpeter Sugar Ginger candid and raw Tamarins Mirobolans and flat Indigo which is made at a great Town not far from Amadabat called Sarquess There was in that place a Pagod which the Mahumetan's have pull'd down and built a Mosquee in the place Before you enter into it you must cross three large Courts pav'd with Marble and encompast with Galleries nor must you enter into the third Court till you have pull'd off your shooes The inside of the Mosquee is adorn'd with Mosaic-work the greatest part whereof is of Agats of divers colours which they fetch from the Mountains of Cambaya not above two days journey off There are several Sepulchres of the ancient Idolatrous Kings that look like little Chappels of Mosaic-work built upon a Vaut that is under the Sepulchre There runs a River from Amadabat toward the North-west which during the rainy-seasons that continue three or four Months together is very wide and rapid and does much mischief every year It is so with all the other Rivers in India and after the rains are fallen you must stay six weeks or two months before you can ford Amadabat-River where there is no Bridg. There are two or three Boats but they are of no use when the stream is so swift so that you must stay till the waters are fall'n But the people of the Countrey will not stay so long for to cross from one River to another they only make use of Goat-skins which they blow up and fill with wind and then tye them between their stomacks and their bellies Thus the poor men and women swim cross this River and when they would carry their children along with them they put them in certain round pots of Earth the mouth whereof is four-fingers wide and drive the Pots before them This puts me in mind of a Passage when I was at Amadabat in the year 1642 which is too remarkable to be omitted A Countrey-man and a Countrey-woman one day past the River as I have related and having a child about two years old they put it into one of these Pots so that there was nothing but the head appear'd Being about the middle of the River they met with a little bank of Sand where there lay an huge Tree which the stream had carri'd thither whereupon the Father shov'd the Pot toward that part to rest himself a-while When he came near the Tree the trunk whereof lay somewhat above the water a Serpent leapt out from among the roots into the Pot where the Infant was The Father and the Mother frighted at the accident and having almost lost their senses let the Pot go a-drift where the stream carri'd it and lay almost dead themselves at the bottom of the Tree About two leagues lower a Banian and his Wife with a little Infant were washing themselves in the River before they went to eat They descry'd the Pot a-far-off with the half of the Infant's-head that appear'd above the hole The Banian immediately swims to the relief of the child and having stopp'd the Pot drives it to the shoar The Mother follow'd by her own comes presently to take the other child out of the Pot at what time the Serpent that had done no harm to the other child shoots out of the Pot and winding about hers stings it and infuses its venom into the Insant so that it dy'd immediately However the accident being so extraordinary did not trouble those poor people who rather believ'd it to have happen'd by the secret disposal of their Deity who had taken from them one child to give them another for it with which opinion they presently comforted themselves Some time after the report of this accident coming to the ears of the first Countrey-man he comes to the Banian to tell him how the mischance had happen'd and to demand his child of him the other Indian affirming that the child was his and that his God had sent it him in the place of that which was dead To be short the business made so loud a noise that it was at length brought before the King who order'd that the child should be restor'd to the Father At the same time there happen'd another very pleasant accident in the same City of Amadabat The Wife of a rich Merchant Banian nam'd Saintidas never having had a child and manifesting her eager desire to have one a servant of the House took her a-side one day and told her that if she would but eat that which he would give her she should be with child The woman desirous to know what she was to eat the servant told her it was a little fish and that she should eat but three or four Now the Religion of the Banians forbidding them to eat any thing that has life she could not resolve at first to yield to his proposal but the servant having promised her that he would so order the matter that she should not know whether it were fish or no that she eat she resolv'd to try his receit and went the next night to lie with her Husband according to the instruction which she had received from the servant Some time after the woman perceiving that she was big her Husband happen'd to die and the kindred
Bargant we should go neer to have all our throats cut for that the Raja of that place liv'd altogether upon Robbery So that unless I hir'd an hunder'd more of the Countrey-people there was no likelihood of escaping those Free-booters At first I argu'd with them and tax'd their Cowardice but fearing to pay for my rashness afterwards I sent them to hire fifty more for three days only that we cross'd the Raja's Countrey for which they ask'd me every one four Roupies which is as much as you give them for a whole Month. The next day as I was about to set forward my Guard came and told me they would leave me and that they would not venture their lives desiring me not to write to Agra to their Captain who was responsible for them that they had left me against my will Three of my servants also did as they did so that I had no body left with me but a man that lead an Horse in his hand my Coachman and three other servants and so I set forward under the protection of God About a league from the place which I had left I perceived some part of my Convoy following me Thereupon I stopt my Coach to stay for them and when they came neer I bid them advance if they intended to go along with me But seeing them fearful and unresolv'd I bid them go about their business telling them I had no need of such Cowards as they were About a league from thence I discover'd upon the brow of an Hill about fifty Horse four of which came riding up to me when I perceived them I alighted out of my Coach and having with me some thirteen Spit-fires I gave to every one of my men an Harquebuss The Horse-men approaching I kept my Coach between them and me and had my Gun ready cockt in case they should assail me But they made me a sign that I should fear nothing only that the Prince was a Hunting and had sent to know what Strangers past through his Territories I made answer that I was the same Franguy that had past by five or six weeks before By good luck the very same Lieutenant to whom I had made the Present of Aquavitae and Spanish-Wine follow'd those four Horsemen And after he had testify'd how glad he was to see me he ask'd me if I had any Wine I told him I never travell'd without that For indeed the English and Hollanders had presented me with several Bottels at Agra So soon as the Lieutenant was return'd to the Raja the Raja himself came to me and told me I was welcome and bid me rest my self in a shady-place which he pointed to about a league and an half from the place where we were In the evening he came and we staid together two days to make merry the Raja bringing along with him certain Morrice-dancers without which the Persians and Indians can never think themselves heartily merry At my departure the Raja lent me 200 Horse to convoy me to the Frontiers of his Territories for three days together for which I only gave them three or four pound of Tobacco When I came to Amadabat the people would hardly believe that I had had so kind a reception from a Prince that was noted for abusing strangers that past through his Countrey From Bargant to Bimal costes 15 From Bimal to Modra costes 15 From Modra to Chalaour costes 10 Chalaour is an ancient Town upon a Mountain encompast with Walls and very difficult to come to There is a Lake at the top of the Mountain and another below between which and the foot of the Mountain lies the Road to the Town From Chalaour to Cantap costes 12 From Cantap to Setlana costes 15 From Setlana to Palavaseny costes 14 From Palavaseny to Pipars costes 11 From Pipars to Mirda costes 16 From Dantivar to Mirda is three days journey being a mountainous Countrey that belongs to Raja's or particular Princes that pay tribute to the Great Mogul In recompence whereof the Great Mogul gives them Commands in his Armies by which they gain much more than they loose by the tribute which they pay Mirda is a great City but ill-built When I came thither in one of my Indian-journeys all the Inns were full of Passengers in regard that Cha-jehan's Aunt the Wife of Cha-Est-Kan was going that way to marry her Daughter to Sultan Sujah the second Son of Cha-jehan I was forc'd to set up my Tent upon a Bank with Trees on both sides But I was not a little surpriz'd two hours afterward to see fifteen or twenty Elephants loose that tore down the boughs as far as they could reach breaking off the huge Arms of Trees as if they had been but small faggot-sticks This spoil was done by the order of the Begum in revenge of the Affront which the Inhabitants of Mirda had put upon her who had not waited on her and made her a Present as they ought to have done From Mirda to Baronda costes 12 From Baronda to Coetchiel costes 18 From Coetchiel to Bandar-Sonnery costes 14 From Bandar-Sonnery to Ladona costes 16 From Ladona to Chasou costes 12 From Chasou to Nouali costes 17 From Nouali to Hindoo costes 19 From Hindoo to Baniana costes 10 These two last places are two Towns where as in all the Countrey round about they make Indigo-Plate which is round and as it is the best of all the Indigo's so is it double the price From Baniana to Vettapour costes 14 Vettapour is an ancient Town where they make woollen-Hangings From Vettapour to Agra costes 12 From Surat to Agra is in all costes 415 If you could divide your journeys equally into thirteen Costes a-piece you might go to Surat in thirty-three days but because you rest and stay at some places it is generally thirty-five or forty days journey CHAP. VI. The Road from Ispahan to Agra through Candahar I Have made an exact description of some part of the Road and brought the Reader as far as Candahar it remains that I carry him from Candahar to Agra to which there are but two ways to go either through Caboul or through Mlultan The latter way is the shorter by ten days journey But the Caravan never goes that way For from Candahar to Multan you travel almost all the way through Desarts and sometimes you travel three or four days without meeting any water So that the most ordinary and beaten Road is through Caboul Now from Candahar to Caboul is twenty-four days journey from Caboul to Lahor twenty-two from Lahor to Dehly or Gebanabat eighteen from Dehly to Agra six which with the sixty days journey from Ispahan to Farat and the twenty from Farat to Candahar makes in all from Ispahan to Agra an hundred and fifty days journey But the Merchants that are in haste take Horses three or four together in a company and ride the whole journey in sixty or sixty-five days at most Multan is a City where there is made a vast
where while the King is sitting upon the Seat of Justice they that have business are to stand Further it is not lawful for them to go till they are call'd and Embassadors themselves are not exempted from this custom When an Embassador comes as far as this Channel the Master of the Ceremonies calls out toward the Divan where the King is sitting that such an Embassador craves Audience of his Majesty Then one of the Secretaries of State declares it to the King who oftentimes makes as if he did not hear But some time after lifting up his eyes he casts them upon the Embassador making him a sign by the same Secretary that he may approach From the Hall of the Divan turning to the left you walk upon a Terrass where you discover the River Over this Terrass the King passes into a little Chamber from whence he goes into his Haram In this little Chamber it was that I had my first Audience of his Majesty as I shall relate in another place Upon the left-hand of the Court where the Divan is built stands a little Mosquee neatly built the Cupola whereof is cover'd with Lead perfectly guilded Here the King goes to hear Prayers every day except it be Fridays when he is to go to the great Mosquee which is a very fair one and plac'd upon an high Platform rais'd higher than the Houses of the City and there is a noble ascent to it That day that the King goes to the Mosquee they place huge rails of wood round about the steps as well to keep off the Elephants as out of respect to the Mosquee The right-side of the Court is taken up with Portico's that make a long Gallery rais'd from the ground about half a foot and these are the King's Stables into which you have many doors to enter They are also full of stately Horses the worst whereof stands the King in three-thousand Crowns and there are some that cost him ten-thousand At the door of every one of these Stables hangs a kind of Mat made of Bambouc that cleaves like our Osiers But whereas we bind our Osier-twigs with the same Osier they bind their Bambouc's with wreath'd-Silk which is delicate work but very tedious These Mats are to hinder the Flies from tormenting the Horses there being two Grooms to an Horse one of which is still employ'd in sanning the Beast There are also Mats spread before the Portico's and before the Stable-door which they spread or take away as occasion requires And the Floor of the Gallery is cover'd with fair Carpets which is taken away in the evening and the Horses Litter strow'd in the same place Which Litter is nothing but the Horse-dung dri'd in the Sun and then squeez'd a little flat The Horses that are brought into India either out of Persia Arabia or the Countrey of Vsbech change their food For in India they never give them Hay nor Oats Every Horse in the morning having for his proportion three loaves made of Meal Wheat and Butter as big as one of our six-penny-loaves 'T is an hard matter to bring them to this diet at first it being sometimes three or four Months before they can do it The Groom is forc'd to hold their tongue in one hand and to thrust down the bread with the other When Sugar-Canes or Millet are in season they give them that diet about noon and in the evening two hours before Sun-set they give them a measure of Garden-Chiches which the Groom squeezes between two stones and mixes with water This is instead of Barley and Oats As for the King 's other Stables where he has also very fine Horses they are scurvy places ill-built which deserve not to be mention'd The Gemene is a fair River that bears good big Boats which running to Agra loses its name falling into Ganges at Hallabas The King has several small Brigantines at Gehanabad upon the River to take his pleasure in and they are very curiously trimm'd after the manner of the Countrey CHAP. VII The continuance of the same Road from Dehly to Agra FRom Dehly to Badelpoura costes 8 From Radelpoura to Pelvel-ki-sera costes 18 From Pelvel-ki-sera to Cotki-sera costes 15 From Cotki-sera to Cheki-sera costes 16 At Cheki-sera is one of the greatest Pagods of the Indians together with an Hospital for Apes as well for those that breed there-abouts as for those that come from the neighbouring-parts which the Banians are very careful to feed This Pagod is call'd Matura and it was formerly in far greater veneration than it is at this day The reason is because the Gemene ran then just at the very foot of the Pagod wherein the Banians as well those of the Countrey as those that came from remote parts in Pilgrimage had the convenience to wash themselves before they went to their Devotions and when they had perform'd them to wash again before they eat which they are not to do ere they have wash'd believing also that if they wash in running-water their sins will be the more easily defac'd But some years since the River changing its course more to the Northward comes not within a good league of the Pagod which is the reason that the Pilgrims have deserted it From Cheki-sera to Goodki-sera costes 5 From Goodki-sera to Agra costes 6 Agra lies in 27 deg 31 min. of Lat. and in a Sandy-soil which causes extremity of heat It is the biggest City in India and formerly the Residence of their Kings The Houses of great Persons are fair and well-built but the Houses of the meaner-sort are as plain as in all the other Cities of India They are built a good distance one from another and hid by the height of their Walls to keep their Women from being seen So that it may be easily conjectur'd that their Cities are nothing so pleasant as ours in Europe Add to this that Agra being encompast round with the Sands the heats are there very excessive which constrain'd Cha-jehan to remove from thence and to keep his Court at Gehanabad All that is remarkable in Agra is the King's Palace and some Monuments as well near the City as in the parts about it The Palace of the King is a vast piece of ground encompast with a double-wall which is terrass'd in some parts and in those parts are built certain Lodgings for some of the Officers of the Court The Gemene runs before the Palace but between the Wall and the River there is a large space of ground where the King causes his Elephants to fight This Field is on purpose near the water because that the Elephant which gets the victory being in a fury they could not bring him to himself did they not drive him into the River to which end they are forc'd to have recourse to Policy by tying Squibs and Crackers to the end of an Half-Pike and then giving fire to them to fright him into the water for when he is in but two or three-foot-deep he is presently
Grace in Paris it is cover'd within and without with black Marble the middle being of Brick Under this Cupola is an empty Tomb for the Begum is inter'd under the Arch of the lowest Platform The same change of Ceremonies which is observ'd under ground is observ'd above For they change the Tapestries Candles and other Ornaments at several times and there are always Mollah's attending to pray I saw the beginning and compleating of this great work that colt two and twenty years labour and twenty thousand men always at work so that you cannot conceive but that the Expence must be excessive Cha-jehan had begun to raise his own Monument on the other side of the River but the Wars with his Son broke off that design nor did Aurengzeb now reigning ever take any care to finish it There is an Eunuch who commands two thousand men that is entrusted to guard not only the Sepulcher of the Begum but also the Tasimacan On another side of the City appears the Sepulcher of King Akabar And as for the Sepulchers of the Eunuchs they have only one Platform with four little Chambers at the four Corners When you come to Agra from Dehly you meet a great Bazar near to which there is a Garden where King Jehan-guire Father of Cha-jehan lies interr'd Over the Garden Gate you see the Tomb it self beset with Portraitures cover'd with a black Hearse-Cloath or Pall with Torches of white Wax and two Jesuits attending at each end There are some who wonder that Cha-jehan against the practice of the Mahumetans who abhor Images did permit of carving but the reason conjectur'd at is that it is done upon the consideration that his Father and himself learnt from the Jesuites certain principles of Mathematicks and Astrology Though he had not the same kindness for them at another time for going one day to visit an Armenian that lay sick whose name was Corgia whom he lov'd very well and had honour'd with several Employments at what time the Jesuites who liv'd next to the Armenians house rang their Bell the sound thereof so displeas'd the King as being a disturbance to the sick person that in a great fury he commanded the Bell to be taken away and hung about his Elephants neck Some few days after the King seeing his Elephant with that great Bell about his neck fearing so great a weight might injure his Elephant caus'd the Bell to be carried to the Couteval which is a kind of a rail'd place where a Provost sits as a Judg and decides differences among the people of that Quarter where it has hung ever since This Armenian had been brought up with Cha-jehan and in regard he was an excellent Wit and an excellent Poet he was very much in the Kings favour who had confer'd upon him many fair Commands though he could never either by threats or promises win him to turn Mahometan CHAP. VIII The Road from Agra to Patna and Daca Cities in the Province of Bengala and of the Quarrel which the Author had with Cha-Est-Kan the King's Unckle I Departed from Agra toward Bengala the 25 th of November 1665 and that day I reach'd no farther than a very bad Inn distant from Agra costes 3 The 26 th I came to Beruzabad costes 9 This is a little City where at my return I received eight thousand Roupies being the remainder of the Money which Giafer-Kan ow'd me for Wares that he had bought at Janabat The 27 th to Serael Morlides costes 9 The 28 th to Serail Estanja costes 14 The 29 th to Serail Haii-mal costes 12 The 30 th to Serail Sekandera costes 13 The 1 st of December to Sanqual costes 14 I met that day 110 Waggons every Waggon drawn by sixOxen in every Waggon 50000 Roupies This is the Revenue of the Province of Bengala with all charges defraid and the Governor's Purse well-fill'd comes to 5500000 Roupies A league beyond Sanqual you must pass a River call'd Saingour which runs into Gemine not above half a league distant from it You pass over this River of Saingour upon a Stone-bridg and when you come from toward Bengala to go to Seronge or Surat if you have a mind to shorten your journey ten days you must leave Agra-Road and come to this Bridg and so Ferry over Gemine in a Boat But generally Agra-Road is taken because the other way you must travel five or six days together upon the stones and also for that you are to pass through the Territories of certain Raja's where you are in danger of being robb'd The second day I came to an Inn call'd Cherourabad costes 12 When you are got about half the way you pass through Gianabad a little City near to which about a quarter of a League on this side crossing a Field of Millet I saw a Rhinoceros feeding upon Millet-Canes which a little Boy of nine or ten years old gave him to eat When I came near the Boy he gave me some Millet to give the Rhinoceros who immediately came to me opening his chops three or four times I put the Millet into his mouth and when he had swallow'd it he still open'd his mouth for more The 3 d I came to Serrail Chajeada costes 10 The 4 th to Serrail Atakan costes 13 The 5 th to Aureng-Abad costes 9 Formerly this Village had another name but being the place where Aureng-zeb gave Battel to his Brother Sultan Sujah who was Governor of all the Province of Bengala Aureng-zeb in Memory of the Victory he had won gave it his own name and built there a very fair House with a Garden and a little Mosquee The 6 th to Alinchan costes 9 Two leagues on this side Alinchan you meet the River Ganges Monsieur Bernier the King's Physitian and another person whose name was Rachepot with whom I travell'd were amaz'd to see that a River that had made such a noise in the World was no broader than the River Seine before the Lovre believing before that it had been as wide as the Danaw above Belgrade There is also so little water in it from March to June or July when the rains fall that it will not bear a small Boat When we came to Ganges we drank every one of us a Glass of Wine mixing some of the River-water with it which caus'd a griping in our bellies But our Servants that drank it alone were worse tormented than we The Hollanders who have an House upon the Bank of Ganges never drink the water of this River until they have boil'd it But for the natural Inhabitants of the Countrey they are so accustom'd to it from their youth that the King and the Court drink no other You shall see a vast number of Camels every day whose business only it is to fetch water from the Ganges The 7 th I came to Halabas costes 8 Halabas is a great City built upon a point of Land where Ganges and Gemine meet There is a fair Castle of hew'n Stone
comes they set up a Candle or a lighted Lamp for a Signal Then it is also that they open all the Shops where they sell Tari which is a certain drink made of the juice of a Tree and is as sweet as our new Wines They fetch it some five or six leagues off upon Horses that carry two earthen-Bottles of each side and trot at a great rate of which there come every day to the City above five or six-hunder'd The King has a considerable Revenue by the Impost which he lays upon this Tari And for that reason he permits so many common Women in regard it is for their sake that so much Tari is consum'd those that sell it for that cause keeping their Shops by those Houses These sort of Women are so nimble and active that when the present King went to see Maslipatan nine of them undertook to represent the figure of an Elephant four making the four feet four the body and one the trunk upon which the King sitting in a kind of Throne made his entry into the City All the Men and Women of Golconda are well proportion'd and of comely statures and fair enough in their councenances only the Countrey-people are a little more swart The present King of Golconda bears the Name of Abdoul-Coutou-Sha and I will tell the Reader in a few words from whence he drew his Original In the Reign of Axbar King of India the Father of Jehan-Guir the Territories of the Great Moguls did not extend farther Southward then Narbider to that the River which runs by it and which coming from the South empties it self into Ganges separated their Dominions from the Territories of the Raja of Narsingue that stretch'd as far as Cape-Comorin the other Raja's being only his Subjects and depending upon him This Raja and his Successors have been always at Wars with them that succeeded to Tamerlane or Temur-leng in India and their Power was so great that the last Raja who was at War with Akbar brought into the Field four Armies under as many Generals The most considerable of his Armies lay in those Provinces which at this day are call'd the Kingdom of Golconda the second was quarter'd in the Provinces of Visapour the third in the Province of Dultabat and the fourth in the Territories of Brampour The Raja of Narsingue dying without Children the four Generals divided among themselves the Countreys which they possess'd with their Army and took upon them the title of Kings the one of Golconda the other of Visapour the other of Brampour and the fourth of Dultabat Though the Raja were an Idolater nevertheless his four Generals were Mahumetans and he of Golconda was of the Sect of Haly descended from an Ancient Family of the Turcomans which inhabit the Country of Hamadan in Persia. This General as I have said was more considerable than any of the rest and some few days after the death of the Raja they won a famous Victory from the Mogul so that he could not hinder them from assuming their several Sovereignties But after that Jehan-Guir the Son of Akbar conquer'd again the Kingdom of Brampour Cha-jehan the Son of Jehan-Guir recover'd the Kingdom of Dultabat and Aureng-zeb the Son of Cha-jehan recover'd some part of the Kingdom of Visapour As for the King of Golconda neither Cha-jehan nor Aureng-zeb disturb'd him but let him rest in peace upon condition that he should pay to the Mogul an annual tribute of 200000 Pagods At present the greatest Raja on this side Ganges is the Raja of Velou whose Territories extend to Cape-Comorin and who succeeded to some part of the Territories of the Raja of Narsingue But in regard there is no Trade in his Countrey and by consequence no concourse of strangers there is little notice taken of him The present King of Golconda has no Sons but three Daughters who are all married The Eldest Espous'd one of the Kinsmen of the Grand Chek of Mecca Nor must we forget some passages that fell out before this Marriage The Chek coming to Golconda in the habit of a Faquir for some Months lodg'd without the Gate of the Palace disdaining to give any answer to several Courtiers that demanded what his business was At length the thing being made known to the King he sent his chief Physitian who spoke good Arabick to know of the Chek what he had to request and the reason of his coming The Physitian and some other Lords of the Court that discours'd him also finding him to be a person of great Wit and Learning brought him to the King who was very well satisfi'd with his aspect and his presence But at length the Chek declaring to him that he came to Espouse the Princess that proposal very much surpriz'd the Prince and was look'd upon by the greatest part of the Court as made by a person not well in his wits At first the King only laugh'd at him But when he found him obstinately persevering in his demand in-so-much that he threaten'd the Countrey with some strange Calamity if the Princess were not given to him in Marriage he was committed to Prison where he lay a long time At length the King thinking it more to the purpose to send him back into his own Countrey caus'd him to be ship'd away at Mastipatan in a Vessel that carri'd Goods and Pilgrims to Mocca whence they travell by land to Mecca About two years after the same Chek return'd again to Golconda and order'd his affairs so well that he Espous'd the Princess and won an high reputation in the Kingdom which he governs at this day and is very Potent He it was that kept the King from surrendring the Fortress of Golconda whither he was retir'd when Aureng-zeb and his Son took Bagnabar as I shall tell you by and by threatning to kill him if he would not resolve to hold it out and not deliver the keys to the enemy This bold action wss the reason which made the King love him ever afterwards and that he takes his counsel in all weigty affairs not as he is the King's Son-in-Law but as he is a great Minister of State and the chiefest person next the King in all the Court He it was that has put a stop to the finishing the great Pagod in Bagnagar having threaten'd the whole Kingdom with some great Calamity if they went forward with the work This Prince is a passionate Lover of all those that profess the Mathematicks and understands them as well For which reason though he be a Mahumetan he is a great Favourer of all the Christians who are vers'd in that Science as he has particularly testifi'd to Father Ephrahim a Capuchin passing through Golconda for Pegu whither he was sent by his Superiors He did all he could to oblige him to stay in the Country and offer'd to build him a House and a Church at his own expences telling him he should neither want employment nor Hearers in regard there were several
opinion that Elephants do great matters in War which may be sometimes true but not alwaws for very often instead of doing mischief to the Enemy they turn upon those that lead them and rout their own party as Aureng-Zeb found by experience at the Siege of this City He was twenty days before Daman and resolv'd at length to Storm it upon a Sunday believing that the Christians were like the Jews and would not defend it upon that day He that commanded the Place was an old Souldier who had serv'd in France and had three Sons with him In the Town were eight hundred Gentlemen and other stout Souldiers who came from all parts to signalize their valour at that Siege For though the Mogul had in his Army above forty thousand men he could not hinder relief from being put into Daman by Sea in regard that he wanted Ships The Sunday that the Prince intended to Storm the Governour of Daman as had been order'd at the Councel of War caus'd Mass to be said presently after Midnight and then made a Sally with all his Cavalry and some part of his Infantry who were to fall on upon that quarter which was guarded by two hundred Elephants Among those Elephants they flung a great number of Fire-works which so affrighted them in the dark of the Night that knowing not whither they went nor being to be rul'd by their Governours they turn'd upon the Besiegers with so much fury that in less than two or three hours half the Army of Aureng-Zeb was cut in pieces and in three days the Siege was rais'd nor would the Prince after that have any more to do with the Christians I made two Voiages to Goa the one at the beginning of the year 1641. the second at the beginning of the year 1648. The first time I stay'd but five days and return'd by Land to Surat From Goa I went to Bicholly which is upon the main Land thence to Visapour thence to Golconda thence to Aureng-abat and so to Surat I could have gone to Surat without passing through Golconda but my business led me that way From Goa to Visapour costes 85 Which takes up generally eight days journey From Visapour to Golconda costes 100 Which I travel'd in nine days From Golconda to Aureng-abat the Stages are not so well order'd being sometimes sixteen sometime twenty five sometimes twenty Leagues asunder From Aureng-abat to Surat takes up sometimes twelve sometimes fifteen sometimes sixteen days journey Visapour is a great scambling City wherein there is nothing remarkable neither as to the publick Edifices nor as to Trade The Kings Palace is a vast one but ill built and the access to it is very dangerous in regard there are abundance of Crocodiles that lie in the Water which encompass it The King of Visapour has three good ports in his Dominions Rejapour Daboult and Crapaten The last is the best of all where the Sea beats upon the foot of the Mountain and you have fourteen or fifteen Fathom Water near the Land Upon the top of the Mountain there is a Fort with a Spring of Water in it Crapaten is not above five days journey from Goa to the North. And Rabaque where the King of Visapour sels his Pepper is as far distant from it to the East The King of Visapour and the King of Golconda have been formerly tributary to the Great Mogul but now they are absolute of themselves This Kingdom was for some time disquieted by the revolt of Nair-seva-gi Captain of the King of Visapour's Guards After which the young Seva-gi his Son conceiv'd so deadly a hatred against the King that he made himself the head of certain Banditi and as he was both wise and liberal he got together so many Horse and Foot as made a compleat Army the Souldiers flocking to to him from all parts for the reputation of his Liberality And he was just about to have led them to action when the King of Visapour happen'd to dye without Children so that with little or no trouble he got possession of one part of the Coast of Malavar taking Rejapour Rasigar Crapaten Daboul and other places They report that upon his demolishing the fortifications of Rasigar he found vast Treasures which help'd him to pay his Souldiers who were alwayes well paid Some years before the death of the King the Queen perceiving no probability of having any Children adopted a little Boy upon whom she bestow'd all her affections and caused him to be brought up in the Doctrine of Haly's Sect The King upon his Death-bed caus'd this Adopted Son to be Proclaim'd King but Seva-gi having a numerous Army continu'd the War and much disturb'd the Regency of the Queen At length he made the first propositions for Peace which was concluded upon conditions that he should quietly enjoy the Territories which he had subdu'd that he should become Tributary to the King and pay him the half of all his Revenue The young King being thus fix'd in his Throne the Queen Regent went in Pilgrimage to Mecca and I was at Ispahan when she pass'd through the Town in her return home When I made my second Voiage to Goa I embark'd in a Dutch Vessel call'd the Maestricht which carry'd me to Mingrela where I landed the eleventh day of January 1648. Mingrela is a large Town extended half a League in length upon the Sea in the Territories of Visapour It is one of the best Roads in all India where the Hollanders take in fresh Provisions every time they sail to block up Goa as also when they are bound upon Trade for many other parts of India For at Mingrela there is both excellent Water and excellent Rice This Town is also very famous for Cardamoms which the Eastern people esteem the best of Spices not being to be had in any other Countrey which makes that sort of Commodity very scarce and very dear There is also made great store of course Calecuts that are spent in the Countrey besides great quantities of course Matting that serves to pack up goods So that both in respect of Trade as also for the furnishing their Ships with fresh Provisions the Hollauders have a Factory in the Town For as I said before not only all Vessels that come from Batavia from Japon from Bengala Ceylan and other places and those that are bound for Surat the Red Sea Ormus Balsara c. both going and coming come to an Anchor in the Road of Mingrela but also while the Hollanders are at Wars with the Portugals and lye before the Bar of Goa where they have usually eight or ten Sail they send their small Barks to Mingrela for Provisions For the Hollanders lye eight Months in a year before the mouth of the Port of Goa so that there can nothing pass into Goa by Sea all that time You must also take notice that the Bar of Goa is also stopt up some part of the year by the Sands which the South and West-winds that precede
pens These Pencils did him a great kindness For the Maltese calling for such a deal of Tobacco which is always cut and ti'd up in white-paper for the profit of the seller who weighs both Tobacco and Paper together these Papers Father Ephraim kept very charily and with his Pencil wrote therein whatever he had studi'd at any time though he lost the sight of one of his eyes through the darkness of the Chamber which had but one window half a foot square and barr'd with iron They would never so much as lend him a Book or let him have an end of Candle but us'd him as bad as a certain Miscreant that had been twice let out already with his Shirt sulphur'd and a St. Andrews-Cross upon his stomach in company with those that are lead to the Gallows and was then come in again Father Ephraim having staid 15 days in the Convent of the Capuchins to recover his strength after 20 months imprisonment return'd for Madrespatan and passing through Golconda went to return his humble thanks to the King of Golcolda and his Son-in-law who had so highly interess'd themselves for his liberty The King importun'd him again to stay at Bagnagar but seeing him resolv'd to return to his Convent at Madrespatan they gave him as before an Oxe two Servants and Money for his journey CHAP. XVI The Road from Goa to Maslipatan through Cochin here describ'd in the story of the taking of that City by the Hollanders AFter the Dutch had dispossess'd the Portugals of whatever they had in Ceylan they cast their eyes upon Cochin in the Territories whereof grows the Bastard Cinnamon which hinder'd the utterance of Ceylan Cinnamon For the Merchants seeing that the Hollanders kept up their Cinnamon so dear bought up that of Cochin which they had very cheap and that coming into request was transported to Gomron and distributed there among the Merchants that came from Persia from Tartary from Moscovia from Georgia Mingrela and all the places upon the black Sea It was also carried away in great quantities by the Merchants of Balsara and Bagdat who furnish Arabia as also by the Merchants of Mesopotamia Anatolia Constantinople Romania Hungary and Poland For in all those Countries they use it either whole or beaten in most of their meats to heighten the taste thereof The Army which was commanded out of Batavia for the Siege of Cochin landed at a place call'd Belli-Porto where the Hollanders had a Fort made of Palm-Trees It is near to Cranganor a small City which the Hollanders took the year before not being able to take Cochin then though they had made some attempts upon it So soon as the Army landed they murch'd within Cannon-shot of the City there being a River between them and the City That part where the Hollanders encamp'd is call'd Belle-Epine where after they had fortifi'd themselves as well as the Nature of the place would permit they rais'd some Batteries which could not much annoy the City by reason of the distance They lay there till they had recruits of more men for they had but three Ships full though he that commanded them were one of the bravest Captains of his time Some few days after the Governour of Amboyna arriv'd with two Ships more and afterwards a Dutch Captain brought a great number of Chinglas who are the Natives of the Island of Ceylan For the Forces of the Hollander would not be so considerable as they are did they not make use of the Natives of the Country to fill up the Companies which they bring out of Europe The Natives of Ceylan are good for digging Trenches and raising Batteries but for a Storm they signifie little Those of Amboyna are good Soldiers four hundred of which were left at Belle-Epine The Body of the Army took Shipping again and landed near to Cochin not far from a Church dedicated to St. Andrew where the Portugals with certain Malavares seem'd to have stay'd ashore for the Hollanders coming But seeing the Enemy to land with so much resolution they only gave them one Volly and retreated In their March the Hollanders descry'd certain Companies of Portugueses near the Sea-shore others somewhat farther up in the Land in a Church call'd St. Johns Thereupon they sent out some Horsemen to discover their number but the Portugals still retreated after they had set fire to the Church Thereupon the Hollanders made their approaches to the Town and after they had besieg'd it for some time a French Soldier who was under their pay seeing a Pannier ty'd at the end of a Cord hanging over one of the Bastions ventur'd notwithstanding all the Bullets that flew about his Ears to see what was in it But he was strangely surpriz'd to find nothing but a languishing infant which the Mother had hung there that she might not see it perish for hunger The Soldier mov'd to compassion took the Infant and gave it such as he had to eat at which the Dutch General was so incens'd saying that the Soldier should have let the Infant perish that he call'd a Council of War where he would have had the Soldier run the Gauntlet which was very cruel but the Council moderating the sentence condemn'd him only to the Strappado The same day ten Soldiers out of every Company were commanded to go to one of the Houses of the King of Cochin but they found no body there having plunder'd it the year before At which time the Hollanders slew four Kings of the Country and six hundred Blacks nor did there escape but only one ancient Queen who was taken alive by a common Soldier call'd Van Rez whom the Commander of the Army made a Captain immediately for his reward They left one Company in that House but the Queen stay'd there but six days for they gave her into the custody of Savarin one of the most potent of the petty Kings upon that Coast to whom the Hollanders had promis'd to give the City of Cranganor if they took Cochim provided he would be faithful to them Six weeks pass'd ere any thing considerable was done but then the Hollanders storming the Town by night were repuls'd and lost abundance of men slain and taken Prisoners through the Governour of Cranganors fault who commanded them and was drunk when the assault was made Two months after the General of the Hollanders resolv'd to make another assault in the same place and because he would not want men he sent for those that lay upon the side of Belle-epine But by misfortune the Frigat struck upon the Sands and splitting abundance of the Soldiers were drown'd They that could swim got to land near Cochin not finding any other place convenient and were all taken Prisoners by the Portugals being not above ten in all Soldiers and Mariners The General however would not give over the assault but causing the Sea-men to land he arm'd some with half-Pikes others with Swords to others he gave hand-Granadoes and about ten a Clock in
the morning he began the assault with four Companies consisting each of a hundred and fifty men The Hollanders lost abundance of men in this last assault and so did the Portugueses for they defended themselves stoutly being seconded by two hundred Soldiers who were all Dutch-men tho they sided with the Portugueses because their Countrymen had bated them six months and a half pay for the loss of Touan Without the assistance of these Soldiers the City had never held out two months there being among them one of the best Dutch Engineers of his time who had left his Countrymen by reason of their ill usage of him At length the Hollanders having enter'd the Town toward evening on Calivete side and being Masters of the chief Bulwark the Portugals came to a Capitulation and the City was surrender'd The Portugals by their Articles march'd out of Cochin with their Arms and Baggage but when they came out of the City where the Hollanders were drawn up in Battalia they were all forc'd to quit their Arms and to lay them at the Generals feet except the Officers who kept their Swords The General had promis'd the Soldiers the Pillage of the Town but not being able to keep his word for several plausible reasons which he told he promis'd them six months pay which in a few days after was reduc'd to eight Roupies a man Samarin also demanded of him the City of Cranganor according to his promise which the General made good but he caus'd all the Fortifications to be slighted first and left Samarin nothing but the bare Walls For being of a very mean Extraction he was naturally as cruel and barbarous in his disposition One time the Soldiers being so put to it for four days together that they could get no food for money two of them had somewhere taken a Cow and kill'd her for which the General when he came to know of it caus'd one of them to be hang'd immediately and had order'd the other to have run the Gauntlet had not King Perca interceded for him King Perca was a petty King of that Country with whom the General was then in Treaty and the Treaty being at length concluded the General muster'd all his Land and Sea-men to the number of about six thousand men A few days after he sent some Companies to besiege the City of Cananor which surrender'd without any resistance When they return'd the General caus'd a Crown to be made for the new King of Cochin the other being expell'd his Country And upon the day which he had appointed for this most solemn Coronation the General sat upon a kind of a Throne at the foot whereof a Malavare or Pirat being led thither between three Captains of each side fell upon his knees to receive the Crown from the Generals hand and to do homage for a petty Kingdom that is to say the little City of Cochin and its Territories which were very small The King and the King-maker were both alike For no doubt it could not but be a pleasant sight to see a Hollander that had been only the Cook of a Ship crowning a miserable Pirat with those hands that had oft'ner handled a Ladle than a Sword In the mean time the Ships that carried the Inhabitants of Cochin to Goa return'd laden with the spoils of those distressed people for contrary to the Articles of Capitulation the Hollanders were no sooner out at Sea but they took from those poor Creatures whatever they had rifling both men and women without any regard to sex or modesty The General being return'd into Batavia they sent a Governour to Cochin who to make the place the stronger demolish'd a great part of the City But this Governour us'd the greatest rigor imaginable even towards the Soldiers he shut them up in the City as if they had been in a Prison nor could they drink either Wine or Sury or Strong-water by reason of the great Imposts which he laid upon them Sury is a drink which flows from the Palm-trees So that when the Portugueses kept Cochin men might live better for five or six Sous than under the Hollander for ten This Governour was so severe that he would banish a man for the smallest fault in the world to the Island of Ceylan to a place where they made Brick sometimes for five or six years sometimes as along as the party liv'd For it is oftentimes observ'd that when any one is banish'd thither though the sentence be only for a term of years yet the Exile never obtains his freedom afterwards CHAP. XVII The Passage by Sea from Ormus to Maslipatan I departed from Gomron to Maslipatan the eleventh of May 1652 and went aboard a great Vessel of the King of Golconda's which is bound every year from Persia laden with fine Calicuts Chites or Calicuts painted with a Pencil which makes them much more beautiful and dearer than those which are printed The Holland Company are wont to allow to those Vessels which belong to any of the Kings or Princes of India a Pilot and two or three Gunners neither the Indians nor Persians being expert in Navigation In the Vessel where I was aboard there were but six Dutch Mariners at most but above a hundred Natives We sailed out of the Persian Golf with a pleasing and favourable Gale but we had not sail'd very far before we found the Sea very rough and the Winds at South-West so violent though full in our Stern that we were not not able to carry out more than one small Sail. The next day and for some days after the Wind grew more violent and the Sea more boist'rous so that being in the sixteenth Degree which is the elevation of Goa the Rain the Thunder and Lightning render'd the Tempest the more terrible insomuch that we could not carry out any other than our top-sail and that half furl'd We pass'd by the Maldives Islands but were not able to discern them besides that the Ship had taken in very much water in the Hold. For the Ship had lain five months in the Road of Gomron where if the Mariners are not very careful to wash the Planks that lye out of the water they will be apt to gape which causes the Ship to leak when she is loaden For which reason the Hollanders wash the outside of their Ships morning and evening We had in our Vessel five and fifty Horses which the King of Persia had sent as a Present to the King of Golconda and about a hundred Merchants Persians and Armenians together who were Traders to India One whole day and night together there rose a cross Wind so violent that the Water rowl'd in from Stern to Stern and the mischief was that our Pumps were nought By good fortune there was a Merchant that had two Bails of Russia Leather besides four or five Sadlers that knew how to sow the Skins who were very serviceable as well to the whole Ship as to themselves For they made
Ragia-peta The twenty-eighth after eight leagues journey we came to Ondecour The twenty-ninth after nine hours travel we arriv'd at Outemeda where there is one of the greatest Pagods in all India It is all built of large Free-stone and it has three Towers where there stand several deform'd figures of Emboss'd-work It is encompast with many little Chambers for the Priests Lodgings five-hunder'd paces beyond there is a wide Lake upon the banks whereof are built several Pagods eight or ten-foot-square and in every one an Idol representing the shape of some Devil with a Brameré who takes care that no stranger that is not of their superstition shall come to wash or take any water out of the Lake If any stranger desires any water they bring it in earthen-pots and if by chance their pot touches the stranger's Vessel they break it immediately They told me also that if any stranger not of their superstition should happen by accident to wash in that Lake they must be forc'd to drain the Lake of all the water that was in at that time As for their Alms they are very charitable for there passes by no person in necessity or that begs of them but they give them to eat and drink of such as they have There are several Women that sit upon the Road whereof some of them always keep fire for Travellers to light their Tobacco by Nay they will give a Pipe to some that have none at all Others boil Rice with Quicheri which is a grain somewhat like our Hemp-seed Others boil Beans with their Rice because the water wherein they are boil'd never puts those that are over-hot into a Pleurify There are Women that have vow'd to perform these acts of Charity to strangers for seven or eight years some for more some for less according to their convenience And to every Traveller they give some of their Beans and Rice-water and an handful of Rice to eat There are other Women upon the high-way and in the fields looking behind their Horses their Oxen and their Cows who have made vows never to eat but what they find indigested in the dung of those Beasts Now in regard there is neither Barly nor Oats in that Countrey they give their Cattel certain great crooked Pease which they bruise before between two Mill-stones and then lay them in steep for half an hour for they are a very solid substance and hard to be digested They give their Cattel these Pease every evening and in the morning they feed them with two-pound of dark-brown-Sugar like Wax kneaded together with as much Meal and one-pound of Butter whereof the Ostlers or Grooms make little round Balls which they thrust down their throats for otherwise they would never eat them Afterwards they wash their mouths that are all over clamm'd especially their teeth which makes them have such an aversion against that sort of food All the day long they pull up the grass and weeds by the roots and give their Cattel being very careful of letting them eat any of the earth The thirty'th we travell'd eight leagues and lay at a place call'd Goulupalé The one and thirty'th after we had travell'd nine hours we stopt at Gogoron The first of September we travell'd but six leagues and came to lie at Gandicot It was but eight days before that the Nahab had taken that City after a Siege of three months Nor had it been taken without the assistance of certain French-men who had forsaken the service of the Dutch-Company by reason of ill-usage They had also several English and Dutch-Cannoneers with two or three Italians which mainly forwarded the surrender of that place Gandicot is one of the strongest Cities in the Kingdom of Carnatica It is situated upon the point of an high Mountain there being but one ascent to it not above twenty or five and twenty-foot-broad at most in some places not above seven or eight-foot-wide On the right-hand of the way which is cut out of the Mountain there is a most hideous precipice at the bottom whereof runs a vast River Upon the top of the Mountain there is a small plain about a quarter of a league broad and about half a league long This is all sow'd with Rice and Millet and water'd with many little Springs The top of the plain on the South-side where the City is built is encompast with precipices two Rivers running at the bottom which form the point So that there is but one Gate to enter into the City from the plain-side and that too fortifi'd with three good Walls of Free-stone with Moats pav'd at the bottom with Free-stone so that the besieged had but only one quarter of the City to defend containing about five-hunder'd paces They had but two Iron-Guns the one carrying twelve-pound-Ball the other eight The one was planted upon the Gate the other upon a point of a kind of a Bastion So that until the Nahab had found the way to mount his Cannon upon a very high place neer the City he lost a great number of men by several sallies which the Besieged made The Raja that was within was esteem'd one of the bravest and most experienc'd Captains that ever were amongst the Idolaters whereupon the Nahab finding that the place was not to be taken unless he could get up his Cannon to the top of that steep ascent sent for all the French-men that were in the King's service promising to every one four months extraordinary pay if they could find a way to mount his Cannon upon the top of such a place wherein they had the good-hap to be very succesful For they mounted four pieces of Cannon and were so prosperous as to hit the great Gun that was planted upon the Gate and render it unserviceable At length when they had beaten down good part of the Wall of the City the Besiege◠came to capitulate and march'd out of the Town upon very good Articles The day we arriv'd all the Army was encamp'd at the foot of the Mountain in a plain through which there ran a very fair River where the Nahab muster'd his Cavalry and found them in a very good condition An English-Cannoneer and an Italian seeing Monsieur Jardin and my self pass by guess'd us to be Frangui's and because it was late accosted us very civilly and oblig'd us to stay with them all night By them we understood that there was in the City a French-Engineer whose name was Claudius Maille of Bourges and that he was employ'd by the Nahab to cast some pieces of Cannon which the Nahab intended to leave in the City The next day we went into the City and found out Maille's Lodging having been acquainted with him at Batavia who informing the Nahab of our arrival he presently sent us Provision for our selves and our beasts The third day we went to wait upon the Nahab who had pitch'd his Tents upon that part of the plain neer the place where the way is cut out of the
that was in it should be sent away to make room for his men For the Prince was afraid and not without reason if he should adventure into a Fortress where he was not absolute Master himself lest they should seize his person of which the King being apprehensive consented to his proposal not being able to do better at that time Thereupon the Garrison which belong'd to Cha-jehan was sent out of the Castle and another of Aureng-zeb's enter'd commanded by Sultan Mahomet the eldest of his Sons to whom he gave order to secure his Father's person When they were thus got in and his Father safe he delaid seeing his Father from day to day waiting as he gave ou t for excuse a kind opportunity for the enterview and pretending his Astrologers did not presently think it seasonable he retir'd into the Countrey to a House about two or three leagues from Agra which very much displeased the people who waited every day for the fortunate hour from which they expected a conclusion of their miseries by the Father and Son's discourse together But Aureng-zeb who was in no great hast to see his Father took up another resolution which was to seize upon all his Fathers treasure which Dara-Sha had not time to carry away He also shut up in the same Fortress Begum-Saheb his Sister to keep the King company by whom she was entirely belov'd and took into his own hands all the wealth she had got by her Father's liberality Cha-jehan enrag'd to see himself us'd in that manner by his own Son made an attempt to escape and kill'd some of the Guards that oppos'd him which caus'd Aureng-zeb more strictly to confine him In the mean time it was a wonderful thing to see that not one of the Servants of so great a King so much as offer'd to help him that all his Subjects should forsake him and turn their eyes upon the rising-Sun acknowledging only Aureng-zeb for King while they seem'd to have forgotten Cha-jehan though still alive Thus this great Monarch sadly ended his days in Prison and dy'd in the Fortress of Agra in the year 1666 the last time that I was in India During his Reign he had begun to build the City of Jehanabad though he had not quite finish'd it and therefore he desir'd to see it once more before he dy'd but Aureng-zeb would not give him leave unless he would be content to go and come back by water or else to be confin'd to the Castle of Jehanabad as he was at Agra which refusal of his Son did so torment him that it hasten'd his end Which as soon as Aureng-zeb heard of he came to Agra and seiz'd upon all the Jewels whick he had not taken from his Father while he liv'd Begum-Saheb had also a quantity of Jewels which he had not taken from her when he put her into the Castle But now because she had formerly taken her Father's part he found out a way to deprive her of them after a very plausible manner making a shew of bestowing very great Honours and Caresses upon his Sister and taking her along with him to Jehanabad But in a short time after we heard the news of her death which prov'd and all people suspected her to have been poison'd CHAP. IV. Of the Flight of Dara-cha to the Kingdoms of Scindi and Guzerat Of the second Battel which he fought against Aureng-zeb His being taken Prisoner and death DAra-cha having carri'd along with him the best part of the Gold and Silver which was in the Fortress of Agra by his Father's advice and being got into the Kingdom of Lahor was in good hopes to have rais'd an Army in a short time to have stopt the proceedings of his Brother His most faithful Servants and Friends had always accompani'd him in his misfortune And as for his Eldest Son Soliman Shekour he went with the Raja Roup into the Territories of that Raja's own demeans to levy men carrying along with him five-millions of Roupies which make of our Money seven-millions and 500000 Livres But that great Sum opening the Raja Roup's eyes he most treacherously and infamously seiz'd upon it whereupon Soliman Chekour fearing he should proceed farther and make some attempt upon his person fled in all hast into the Kingdom of Sireneguer under the protection of the Raja Nakti-Rani who more foully and basely deliver'd him up sometime after to Aureng-zeb Dara-cha having notice of the Raja Roup's treason and seeing all his friends had forsook him and were revolted to Aureng-zeb quitted Lahor and retir'd into the Kingdom of Scindi Before he left the Fortress he sent all the Gold Silver Jewels and Wealth that was in the Fort away by water to Baker a Fort in the midst of the River Indus To guard all that Wealth he lest an Eunuch and six-thousand men with all provisions necessary for a Siege after that he went to Scindi where he left several great pieces of Cannon Then he march'd through the Territories of the Raja of Kachnagana who made him mountainous promises to no effect then he came into the Kingdom of Guzerat where the people receiv'd him as their lawful King and Heir to Cha-jehan He sent his Orders to all the Cities and particularly to Surat where he appointed a Governor but the Governor of the Fortress who was left there by Morat-Bakche refus'd to submit to Dara-cha so that he was forc'd to let him alone In the mean time Dara-cha receiv'd news at Amadabat that Jessomseing one of the most potent Raja's in all India was fall'n off from Aureng-zeb The same Raja also solicits him to advance with his Army Dara-cha confiding in his words follow'd his counsel and march'd to Emir which was the place of Rendevouz appointed But Raja Jessomseing being regain'd by the perswasions of Raja Jesseing more potent than himself to favour Aureng-zeb never met according to his promise nor did he come till the last push and then only with a design to betray the poor Prince Thus the two Brothers meeting they came to a Battel which lasted three days but in the heat of all the Fight Jessomseing shewing an apparent treachery went over to Aureng-zeb upon which Dara-cha's Souldiers immediately fled Dara-cha having thus lost all his hopes and finding Fortune contrary to all his expectations fled away likewise with his Wives some of his Children and his most faithful Servants in an equipage that drew compassion But coming to Amadabat the Governor having declar'd for Aureng-zeb deni'd him entrance Thereupon he discamp'd in the middle of the night and took the road for Scindi He arriv'd at Scindi with an intention to pass into Persia where Cha-Abas the Second expected him with a magnificent Retinue and a resolution to have assisted him with Men and Money But not daring to trust himself by Sea as he pass'd through the Countrey of the Patanes in the way to Candahar he was unworthily betraid by one of the Lords of the Countrey call'd Gion-Kan who
whereof make a Salt so tart that it is impossible to eat it until the tartness be tak'n away which they do by putting the ashes in water where they stir them ten or twelve hours together then they strain the substance through a Linnen Cloth and boil it as the water boils away the bottom thick'ns and when the water is all boil'd away they find at the bottom very good and white Salt Of the ashes of these Fig-leaves they make a Lye wherewith they wash their Silk which makes it as white as Snow but they have not enough to whiten half the Silk that grows in the Country Kenneroof is the name of the City where the King of Asem keeps his Court twenty-five or thirty days journey from that which was formerly the Capital City and bore the same name The King requires no Subsidies of his people but all the Mines in his Kingdom are his own where for the ease of his Subjects he has none but slaves that work so that all the Natives of Asem live at their ease and every one has his house by himself and in the middle of his ground a fountain encompass'd with trees and most commonly every one an Elephant to carry their Wives for they have four Wives and when they marry they say to one I take thee to serve me in such a thing to the other I appoint thee to do such business so that every one of the Wives knows what she has to do in the House The men and women are generally well complexion'd only those that live more Southerly are more swarthy and not so subject to Wens in their throats neither are they so well featur'd besides that the women are somewhat flat Nos'd In the Southern parts the people go stark naked only covering their private parts with a Bonnet like a blew Cap upon their heads hung about with Swines teeth They pierce holes in their ears that you may thrust your thumb in whete they hang pieces of Gold and Silver Bracelets also of Tortoise-shells and Sea-shells as long as an egg which they saw into Circles are in great esteem among the meaner sort as Bracelets of Coral and yellow Amber among those that are rich When they bury a man all his Friends and Relations must come to the burial and when they lay the body in the ground they all take off their Bracelets from their Armsand Legs and bury them with the Corps CHAP. XVIII Of the Kingdom of Siam THE greatest part of the Kingdom of Siam lies between the Golf of Siam and the Golf of Bengala bordering upon Pegu toward the North and the Peninsula of Malacca toward the South The shortest and nearest way for the Europaeans to go to this Kingdom is to go to Ispahan from Ispahan to Ormus from Ormus to Surat from Surat to Golconda from Golconda to Maslipatan there to embark for Denouserin which is one of the Ports belonging to the Kingdom of Siam From Denouserin to the Capital City which is also call'd Siam is thirty-five days journey part by Water part by Land by Waggon or upon Elephants The way whether by Land or Water is very troublesome for by Land you must be always upon your guard for fear of Tigers and Lions by Water by reason of the many falls of the River they are forc'd to hoise up their Boats with Engines All the Countrey of Siam is very plentiful in Rice and Fruits the chiefest whereof are Mangos Durions and Mangustans The Forests are full of Harts Elephants Tigers Rhinocero's and Apes where there grow also large Bambou's in great abundance Under the knots of these Bambou's are Emets nests as big as a mans head where every Emet has his apartiment by himself but there is but one hole to enter into the nest They make their nests in these Canes to preserve themselves from the rains which continue four or five months together In the night time the Serpents are very busie There are some two foot long with two heads but one of them has no motion There is also another creature in Siam like our Salamander with a forked tail and very venomous The Rivers in this Kingdom are very large and that which runs by Siam is equally as large as the rest The water is very wholesome but it is very full of Crocodiles of a monstrous bigness that devour men if they be not very careful of themselves These Rivers overflow their banks while the Sun is in the Southern Tropick which makes the fields to be very fertile as far as they flow and it is observ'd that the Rice grows higher or lower as the floods do more or less increase Siam the Capital City of the Kingdom where the King keeps his Court is wall'd about being about three of our Leagues in circuit it is situated in an Island the River running quite round it and might be easily brought into every street in the Town if the King would but lay out as much Money upon that design as he spends in Temples and Idols The Siamers have thirty-three Letters in their Alphabet But they write from the left to the right as we do contrary to the custom of Japon China Cochinchina and Tunquin who write from the right to the left All the Natives of this Kingdom are slaves either to the King or the great Lords The women as well as the men cut their hair neither are they very rich in their habits Among their complements the chiefest is never to go before a person that they respect unless they first ask leave which they do by holding up both their hands Those that are rich have several Wives The Money of the Country is already describ'd The King of Siam is one of the richest Monarchs in the East and stiles himself King of Heaven and Earth though he be Tributary to the Kings of China He seldom shews himself to his Subjects and never gives Audience but to the principal Favourites of his Court He trusts to his Ministers of State for the management of his affairs who sometimes make very bad use of their authority He never shews himself in publick above twice a year but then it is with an extraordinary magnificence The first is when he goes to a certain Pagod within the City which is guilded round both within and without There are three Idols between six and seven foot high which are all of massie Gold which he believes he renders propitious to him by the great store of Alms that he distributes among the poor and the presents which he makes to the Priests Then he goes attended by all his Court and puts to open view the richest Ornaments he has One part of his magnificence consists in his train of two hundred Elephants among which there is one that is white which the King so highly esteems that he stiles himself King of the White Elephant The second time the King appears in publick is when he goes to another Pagod five or six Leagues
Termerossa and Asshowa 20 miles from Temerossa it falls into the Jein Sea and hath a Course of 500 miles The next is the River of Balke which comes out from Cabardy and falls into the River of Terigke 200 miles from its Source which River of Terigke descends from the Mountains between Shollohofe Knasse and Mundarawa Knasse runs through the Countrey almost due East passes by Goracho Colloda thence to the Shussa and the Shunsa so on to the Weistra and 6 miles from Tumein between Tumein and the Commocks Countrey it falls into the Caspian Sea having a Course of 600 miles There is another River called Tumenka which is a branch of Terigke runs through Tumeine Town and 3 miles beyond it enters the Caspian Sea There is also another River which they call Keeslar which falls out of Terigke and 60 miles from Tumeine is received by the Caspian Sea Having formerly mentioned Pettigor I shall give you some Account thereof Pettigor being interpreted is in English 5 Hills They are five very great and high Mountains distant about 500 miles from the Black Sea and 700 from the Caspian beyond Cabardy I came thus to know them In the year 1618. I was sent with Shiedake Myrsa from Astracan to the Little Nagoy to seize upon Orrake Myrsa who being informed of our coming fled up to Pettigor yet he made not such hast but we overtook him and having fought overcame him and took away his Hords by which means I became acquainted with Pettigor Nevertheless there are higher Hills than Pettigor as Sneesnagore in Cabardy which is incredibly high which is in English the Hill of Snow for upon that and Shadgore which signifies a wonderful high Hill and overtops the former and so along for 100 miles from Cabardy to Shollohofe prodigious quantities of Snow are lodged which it's thought were never dissolved since the Creation I asked a Circassian Whether ever any Man arrived at the top of Shadgore which to me seemed much elevated above the rest who answered me They had a Tradition among them that formerly a Bohatteere whose Name was Hroda attempted to climb it and after two or three days hard labour arrived not unto the middle but after a few days being better accommodated he returned with a resolution if it were possible to see the top but was never afterwards heard of and added That it was to that day customary for the neighbouring Circasstans at a certain season of the year with divers Ceremonies and great Lamentations to bewail his loss The next Countrey to Sheercassen Land is Abassa which is situated between Circassia and Mingrellia and the Inhabitants are a kind of Circassians Mingrellia is under the Dominion of the Turks and lies on the Black Sea Of these two Countreys I have no great knowledge having only coasted them three or four times in Boats when I was among the Cossacks where also we landed divers times taking store of Kine and Sheep but no Prisoners because they affirmed themselves to be Christians They are a proper handsome People but very poor and notorious Thieves for they steal not only Goods but even Women and Children from each other and sell them unto the Turks and Tartars chiefly for Salt which is there very scarce Next unto Mingrellia is Georgia whose Inhabitants are little better than the former only they have a kind of Scripture for they worship Idols or Images yet have Cloisters and a sort of Monks with some Priests of the Greek Belief I once landed in Georgia with an Army of 5000 Men we marched up into the Countrey until we came within a days journey of Deimur Capou or the Iron Gate which is a narrow passage between Georgia and Anatolia with Rocks on each side and a strong Town built in the midst We stayed ten days ravaging the Countrey they told us this Town and Castle belonged to the King of Persia and there is no other passage out of Georgia into Persia but through it The next Countrey unto Georgia is Anatolia where our Traveller resided several years having been sold by the Precopensian Tartars unto a Turkish Spahi or Timariot of which Countrey and the Manners of the Inhabitants he gives a large Description But we being sufficiently informed thereof by divers intelligent Europeans who dwelt long in those Parts shall with our Traveller pass on to those Countreys which are less known But first we will take his Account of the Periplus of the Euxine or Black Sea From Fennara which is at the head of the Strait or Gulf that enters the Black Sea to Precop is 700 miles from thence to Caffa a noted City and Port in Crim 300 miles to Asshowa 500 miles to Temerossa 500 miles to Mingrellia 400 miles to Trebezond 400 miles and from thence unto Constantinople 1000 miles in all 3800 miles Thus much I know of the Black Sea which I have three times coasted by Sea and traced above half by Land so that now it is time to speak concerning the Caspian Sea and shew all the Kingdoms and Countreys which lie upon it beginning at Astracan and proceeding thence Eastwards until I return unto the same City from the South Astracan is placed on a rising ground not far from the mouth of the Volga from which it is not distant above 50 miles it is in an Island on the Great Nagoy side made by the River Volga and a branch thereof having the Caspian Sea on the South The Town or City is secured by a strong Castle furnished with store of great Ordnance and in the midst of the Castle is a Roskade which commands both Castle Town and the Fields round about for above a mile The Tartar's Town is adjoyning placed near unto Cutuma which is a River naturally derived from the Volga or one of its many branches so that the Town is incompassed with Waters having the main body of the Volga on the West and Cutuma on the East Now if you would know whence the Volga comes I will acquaint you with what I have learned from the Muscovites It s utmost Source is said to be at the foot of a great Tree whence it runs unto Jerislave 1000 miles whence it proceeds to Neisna 500 miles and thence unto Cassan 300 miles from Cassan to Samara 500 to Saratoft 350 miles to Saraichena 350 and thence unto Astracan 500 miles from whence it is as we said before unto the Caspian Sea 50 miles in all 3550 miles The Volga is a wonderful great River abounding with divers sorts of great Fish as Sturgeon Bellouke Severuke Shelren Sterleke Som Sassan Suke Soudake Konnee Sablee Lessee Wobla Tarane and many others both great and small which I cannot readily call unto remembrance notwithstanding that I dwelt there ten years The Volga enters the Caspian Sea by 22 mouths and upon each of them is an Oughsuke or Fish-wear for to take Sturgeon every one of which Oughsukes is called by the name of the Water as Soellova Dertullee Bosserigee and
Grand Signors very much delight in for the pleasures of Hunting and Hawking especially at the wild Duck and Heron. The fifth day after we departed from Adrianople and the forty second after we departed from Vienna we happily arriv'd at Constantinople and crossing through the City over to Galata went to the Ambassador's House While we stay'd there to winter we made a small Voyage to the Dardanells to the Ruins of Troy where we beheld nothing but Stones not worth the while of going so far to see Another day we took three Barks and Sail'd to Calcedon that lies upon the Sea There is in it a very ancient Church and they shew'd us the Room where the Council was held with the same Chairs which were then made use of Now it is only a Monastery where two Bishops after they had shew'd us what they could handsomly entertain'd us Then we went to view Pompey's Pillar at the mouth of the Black Sea Concerning the Channel of which Sea I must make one Observation that though there be no part of the Sea but has one Current yet this has two quite contrary one to another That part next to Europe carries the Vessel to the Black Sea and that next Asia brings it back again to the Mediterranean So that you have no more to do but to cross over from one Shore to the other The Winter being over the two French Gentlemen pursu'd their Voyage for Alexandretta But for my part I having another design in my head stay'd at Constantinople in expectation of a Caravan which the people told me from Month to Month was coming I was then ignorant and did not understand that every year there were five or six Caravans that went from Bursa Besides that sometimes eight or ten Merchants travelling together might go safe to Ispahan Which ignorance of mine made me stay longer than I intended At length after I had continu'd eleven Months in Constantinople I departed with a fair and numerous Caravan for Ispahan which was the first time I travell'd into Asia After that I made five others wherein I had time better to understand the Qualities of the Countries and the Genius of the People The three last times I went beyond Gauges to the Island of Java so that for the space of forty years I have travell'd above sixty thousand Leagues by Land never returning but once into Europe by Sea And thus in my six Voyages and by travelling different Roads I had the leisure and opportunity to see all Turky all Persia and all India particularly the famous Diamond Mines where no European had been before me Of these three great Empires therefore have I resolv'd to make an ample and exact Description and I will begin with the several Roads which may be taken from Paris into Persia. These Computations are made supposing a French Crown to be in value Sterling 54 pence or 4 s. 6 d. the reputed Par and that 12 Deniers make a Sous 20 Sous a Liver whereof 3 make an Escu By which Computation 10 Sous is in value 9 d. and 10 Deniers 3 q. Persian Money French English   l. s. d. q. ABassi 18 Sous 6 Deniers 0 01 04 2â…— 3 Abassi's and 1 Chayet 1 Ecu 0 04 06  2 Mamoudi's 1 Abassi 0 01 04 0â…– 2 Chayets 1 Mamoudi 0 00 08 0â…• Casbeké Simple 5 Deniers 1 Half-peny 0 00 01 2 4â— 100 Double Casbeké 11 Deniers 0 00 03 0 8â— 100 Bisti 1 2 Double Casbekés 0 00 06 1 74 100 Chayets 1 5 Double Casbekés 0 00 04 0â…• 1 Or 5 Abassi's 0 06 11 1 1 Toman 46 Livers 1 Denier â…• Piaster 3 09 00 0 9 â—5 Indian Money French English   l. s. d. q. LArins 5 1 Ecu French within 8 Sous 0 03 10 3â…• Demi-Larins 10 Half as much 0 01 11 1â…— Roupy of Gold 21 Livers 1 11 06  Roupy of Gold 30 Sous 0 02 03  Pecha 6 Deniers 0 00 00 1â…˜ Half Roupy 16 Sous 0 01 02 1â…— Quarter of a Roupy 7 Sous 6 Deniers 0 00 06 3 Pagods Demi-Pistol in Gold a Pistol is 11 Livers 0 08 03  Fano's 6 1 Ecu 0 04 06  Cheda Money 1. 2. 2 Sous 0 00 01 3 â— 5 Cheda 3. 4. 4 Deniers 0 00 00 1 â— 5 Achen Gold 16 Sous 8 Deniers 0 01 03  Macassar Gold 23 Sous 8 Deniers 0 01 09 1 â— 5 Camboya Silver 4 Sous 0 00 03 2 â— 5 Siam Gold 7 Livers 1 Sous 0 10 06 3â…— Siam Silver 32 Sous 4 Deniers 0 02 05 0â…– Asem Silver 23 Sous 0 01 08 2â…˜ Tipoura Silver 22 Sous 0 01 07 3â…• Arakan Money 21 Sous 0 01 06 3 â— 5 Pegu Silver 20 Sous 6 Deniers 0 01 06 1â…˜ Gold Fanos 15. 1 Real 0 04 04  Asem Fanos 22. 1 Ecu 0 04 06  China Goltschut 1350 Livers 101 05 00  China Silver pieces 59 Sous 8 Deniers 0 04 05 2â…˜ Japon Gold N o 1. 87 Livers 10 Sous 6 11 03  N o 2. 3. 29 Livers 31 Sous 4 Deniers 2 05 10 1 Japon Silver pieces 30 Sous 0 02 03  Silver Ingots N o 1. 24 Livers 10 Sous 1 16 09  2. 8 Livers 10 Sous 7 Deniers 0 12 09 2 1 10 3. 4 Livers 5 Sous 5 Deniers 0 06 04 3½ 4. 3 Livers 10 Sous 11 Deniers 0 05 03 3 â— 10 5. 3 Livers 8 Sous 8 Deniers 0 05 01 3â…• 6. 1 Liver 5 Sous 1 Denier 0 01 10 2 5 10 7. 1 Liver 9 Deniers 0 01 06 2 7 10 8. 16 Sous 4 Deniers 0 01 02 2â…˜ A Telle 4 Livers 5 Sous 0 06 04 2 Muscovy Gold 20 Sous 1 Denier 1 Half-peny 0 01 06 0 3 10 Muscovy Silver 1 Sous 0 00 00 3â…– THE CONTENTS OF THE Persian Travels The First BOOK of Monsieur TAVERNIER's Persian Travels Of the several Roads from Paris to Ispahan the chief City of Persia through the Northern Provinces of Turky Chap. I. OF the Roads from France to the hither parts of Asia and the places from whence they usually set out for Ispahan Pag. 1 Chap. II. Of the Road from Constantinople to Ispahan which the Author kept in his first Travels into Persia. 3 Chap. III. A continuation of the Road from Constantinople to Ispahan from the Borders of Persia to Erivan 10 Chap. IV. A continuation of the same Road from Erivan to Tauris 15 Chap. V. A continuation of the Constantinopolitan Road from Tauris to Ispahan through Ardeüil and Casbin 24 Chap. VI. The ordinary Road from Tauris to Ispahan through Zangan Sultany and other places 26 Chap. VII Of the Road from Smyrna to Ispahan through Natolia 32 Chap. VIII How the Author was rob'd near Tocat and of a certain sort of a rare and fine Wool which he first brought into France 40 Chap. IX Of the Road from Kerman to Ispahan and the fortune of Nazar Mahomet-Ali-Beg 42 Chap. X. Of the
almost encompass it You may embark at Venice and saying along the Gulf which is free from Pirates you must double the Cape of Matapan the most Southern Point of all Europe to enter into the Archipelago The other way is from Marseilles or Ligorn from whence several Vessels are bound for the East The safest way is to go along with the English or Holland Fleets that usually arrive at Ligorn either in the Spring or in Autumn and part just against the Morea to the several parts whither they are bound As the Wind serves those Fleets sometimes make Sail between the Iland of Elba and Italy and by the Tower of Messina sometimes below Sicily and Sardigna within sight of Malta Thus you must come within sight of Candy whether you are bound for Constantinople Smyrna or Alexandretta from whence it is but three days journey to Aleppo from one of which three Cities you must necessarily begin your journey if you intend for Persia. Some take Egypt in their way using through Alexandria Cairo and Damiata whence several Vessels are bound for Joppa or St. John's of Acra which is not far off from thence to Jerusalem or Damascus and from thence to Bagdat or Babylon If you will venture in a single Vessel not staying for the Fleets you may hire a Vessel from Ligorn to Naples from Naples to Messina keeping along by the Shore and lying a-shore every night I took this way and went from Messina to Syracuse where are to be seen the most remarkable footsteps of Antiquity 'T is like a City under ground and near to it is a great Rock which has been made hollow at the bottom whereof if a man whisper they that are at the top may hear him They call this Rock Dionysius the Tyrant's Ear for being at the top he easily understood what the People said of him below and discovered the Counsels of the chief Men of Syracuse whom lie kept prisoners there Syracuse has nothing of that splendour which renown'd it when it was the Mistress of all Sicily and when Greece jealous of her power made War upon her But the Soil is very plentiful and the Gallies of Malta very often take in their Provisions there Near the City is a fair Convent of Capuchin Friers going out of which you may walk for half an hour between two very high Rocks where there are several little Cells with every one a Garden where the Friers sometimes retire and it is certainly one of the most pleasing Solitudes in the World From Syracuse I went to Malta where you must wait for some Ship that is bound for the East CHAP. II. Of the Road from Constantinople to Ispahan which the Author kept in his first Travels into Persia. IT is seldom that any Caravans go from Constantinople into Persia but from Bursa they go every two Months Bursa is the Capital City of Bithynia not above three days journey from Constantinople or a little more These two Roads meet at Chabangi where you may be from Bursa in two Days and so I will only speak of the Roads from Constantinople to Ispahan This Journey is to be undertaken either with the Caravan of Camels or else ten or twelve Men in a Company well mounted and well arm'd From Constantinople you cross over to Scutari upon the Coast of Asia Setting out from Scutari the first days journey is very pleasant over Fields gayly painted with Flowers in their season At first for some time together on both sides the way you see nothing but fair Sepulchers with their Pyramids and you may easily discern the Womens Monuments from the Mens For there is a Turbant upon the Pyramid of the Mens Sepulcher but the Pyramids of the Womens Monuments are trimm'd with the Head-Attire which is worn by the Women of the Country That Evening you must lye at Cartali a Village of Bithynia the next Day at Gebisa anciently Lybissa famous for the Tomb of Hannibal In that place there are two good Inns and two fair Fountains The third Day you come to Isnich which is thought to be the ancient Niceae one part of the City is built upon the descent of a Hill the other part upon a Plain that reaches to the Sea and makes the Golf of Isnich The Haven consists of two Moles made of Free-stone and three great Enclosures encompass'd with Walls which serve instead of so many Arsenals wherein there are Store-houses full of large Timber for building Houses and Galleys The Country round about being an excellent place for Hunting and the Soil bearing rare Fruits and rich in Wine caus'd Sultan Amuratt to build a Seraglio in the highest part of the Town from whence there is a prospect at the same time both over the Sea and the Country The Jews inhabit the greatest part of the Town dealing chiefly in Timber and Corn. When the Wind serves you may go from Constantinople to Isnich in seven or eight Hours there being no danger in the passage The fourth Day you stay at Chabangi a small Town built upon the side of a Lake call'd Chaban-Gigul where there are two Inns. From the beginning of the Lake for two Leagues together you travel partly over Mountains partly by the Lake-side where in some places the Horse will be up to the Belly This Lake is not above ten Leagues in compass but it yields great store of large Fish infomuch that I have bought a Pike two Foot and a half long for three Sous Many Emperours have had a design to make a Cutt out of this Lake into the Sea for the more easie transporting to Constantinople the Timber which grows upon the Mountains near the Lake And if the Grand Visier who by a Miracle dy'd in his Bed and left his Son successor to his Employment had liv'd some few Years longer he had no question added this to the rest of those famous Works that eterniz'd his Memory Departing from Chabandi you come to lye at Night upon the Bank of a River call'd Zacarat which runs Northward and falls into the Black Sea It is a River plentiful in Fish and you cross over it with a wooden Bridge There is neither Town nor Inn in that place but a League from the River is a great Town call'd Ada the chiefest part of the Inhabitants whereof are Armenians Thither we sent for excellent good Wine and other necessary refreshments From that River to Cancoly where you lye the next Night and have your choice of four Inns you travel all the day in the Mershes over wooden Bridges and Causeys Tuskebasar is the next place a small Village with two Inns. From thence to Cargueslar a great Town with one Inn built upon a River where there is great store of Fish taken which the Inhabitants call Bourma-balouky that is to say the Fish with the long Nose It is speckl'd like a Trout but of a better tast and more esteem'd Polia or Polis is a City seated at the foot of several Mountains the
If you travel in May when the Grass is high it costs nothing to seed the Horses and Camels For as soon as the Caravan is lodg'd the Servants go and cut the Grass from off the Hillocks where it is much better then upon the Plains But while the Beasts feed only upon Grass they are much weaker and cannot travel so far as at other times From the Mountain where the Armenians were set upon you come to Almous a little Village upon a River which you cross over a Bridge of Wood. Going out of Almous you cross a large Plain at the end whereof you lodge upon the Bank of a fair River call'd Toufanlou-sou which falls into the River of Tocat Having pass'd this River you ascend a high Mountain which the People of the Country call Kara-bchir-boguiendren or the Mountain that stops the Grand Signors for it is very rugged and you must of necessity alight to ascend it In that bad Way two Horses that carry'd each of them two Bales of English Cloth burst under their Burthen which prov'd excellent Food for several Tartars that were before us and were pitch'd in the place where we intended to have lodg'd our selves so that we were forc'd to go a quarter of a League farther These Tartars when they heard of our two dead Horses made immediately to the Mountain fifteen or sixteen of them with all joy imaginable to devour it They flea'd the Horses and when they came back for I stay'd to see them they brought every one a great piece of Flesh between the Saddle and their Horses backs For by that means the Flesh mortifies and bakes as it were through the motion and heat of the Horse and so they eat it without any more a-do I saw one of them that took a piece of those Horses Flesh and after he had beaten it soundly between two nasty Linnen Clothes with a piece of a Stick set his Teeth in it and devour'd it with a very greedy appetite Upon the top of the Mountain which I have mention'd there is a Plain and in the mid'st of the Plain a Fountain call'd Chesmé-beler or A Fountain of Crystal near to which on the South-side there stands a Village From the place where we lodg'd we came to a little Town called Adras the Inhabitants whereof are all Armenians Aspidar is but two Leagues from Adras and is but a Village Isbeder is another Village in the Mountains where the Caravan generally stays one or two days as well to pay the Custom which is the fourth part of a Rixdollar upon every Camel and half as much for every Horse as for the excellency and cheapness of the Wine where every Man provides for himself Twice we pass'd by and paid nothing in regard that the Caravan was too strong for the Toll-gatherers and were it not that they stay for the Wine they might go directly forward without paying any thing Leaving Isbeder we came to another great Town in the Mountains all the Houses are hewn out of the Rock upon which it is seated as are also all the Stair-Cases From this Village having pass'd a River over a wooden Bridge at the end whereof there stands an Inn you come to Zacapa another Village from whence through very narrow passages where you are forc'd to unload the Camels and carry your Goods upon Mens shoulders for thirty Paces together you come to encamp in a little Plain It lyes at the foot of a high Mountain which they call Dikmebell beyond which lies the Town Kourd-Aga after which you cross three Rivers one fordable the other over two Bridges and then you come to a Village call'd Garmeru From Garmeru you go to Seukmen another Village from Seukmen to Louri from Louri to Chaouqueu which are two very handsom Towns I saw an Old Man at Chaouqueu who was above a Hundred and Thirty Years old who when Sultan Amurath besieged Bagdat gave his whole Army as much Oats as serv'd them one whole day In recompence whereof the Sultan exempted him and his Children from all Taxes and Tolls for their Lives Leaving Chaouqueu you come to a high craggy Mountain which is call'd Aaggidogii or The Bitter Mountain The Ways being narrow the Caravan is forc'd to travel single and then it is that they count all the Horses and all the Camels every Horse and every Camel paying to the Caravan-Master a certain Duty which amounts to a good Sum if the Caravan be numerous One part of that Money is to pay seven or eight Armenians that guard the Caravan all the way another part defrays the Expences upon the Road and the remainder is the Captain of the Caravan's Profit Having pass'd this Mountain you come to lodge in a Plain which they call Gioganderesi and from thence to Erzerom you meet only with three Villages by the way Achikala Ginnis and Higia which are the Caravan's Stages During these three last days journeys you keep all along the Banks of Euphrates for the most part which is yet but narrow taking its source Northward of Erzerom 'T is a wonderful thing to see the vast quantities of large Asparagus that grow all along the River with which you may load several Camels A League on this side Erzerom the Caravan is constrain'd to stop for the Officer of the Custom-House accompani'd with the Basha's Lieutenant comes here and tyes all the Bales and Chests with a cross Cord upon which he puts a Seal to the end that when the Merchants come to the Town they may not be able to take out any Bags of Money or any pieces of Stuff on purpose to hide them till they go away The particular Business of the Basha's Lieutenant in meeting the Caravan is to see whether the Merchants be well provided with Wines And if he desire any Bottles whether it be then or in the City where they are not asham'd to visit every Merchant there is no refusing them For there grows no Wine at Erzerom all that is drank there being a small Wine of Mingrelia which is always green which forces the Merchants to furnish themselves with Wine at Tocat which they may do sufficiently to last them into Persia. The Officer of the Custom-House generally allows the Caravan three days to rest during which time he sends to the principal Merchants some Fruit and other small Refreshments by which he is no loser After the three days are over he comes and opens all the Bales and Chests and takes a particular account of all the Merchandizes This Search and the changing of Beasts causes the Caravan to stay generally twenty or five and twenty days at Erzerom Erzerom is a frontier Town of Turkie toward Persia. It is situated at the end of a large Plain environ'd with Mountains the Plain being beautifi'd with many fair Villages If you take in the Castle and the Suburbs it may pass for a City but the Houses are ill built of Wood without any neatness or proportion There are some Remains of
of Christ was pierc'd the Figure whereof I caus'd to be drawn upon the Place The Armenians have this Lance in great Veneration saying that it was brought thither by St. Matthew Five Leagues from Erivan towards the South-East begins the Mountain Ararat which will be always famous for being the resting-place of Noah's Ark. Half a League from that Mountain where the Plain begins to grow level stands a Church upon a little Hillock close by which are several Pits like Wells They report that it was into one of these Wells that Cerda an Armenian King caus'd St. Gregory to be thrown because he would not Worship his false Gods Between this Church and Erivan are to be seen the Ruines of the Ancient Artaxate the Seat of the Kings of Armenia which demonstrate that it has been a great City besides there appear the Ruines of a fair Palace Erivan lyes in 64 Degrees 20 Minutes of Longitude 41 Degrees 15 Minutes of Latitude in a most plentiful Country of all things necessary for Humane Life but especially abounding in good Wine It is one of the best Provinces of all Persia and yields the King a very large Revenue as well by reason of the goodness of the Soil as for being the great Thoroughfare of the Caravans The yearly Revenue of the Governour only otherwise call'd the Kan of Erivan amounts to above 20000 Tomans which make 840000 Livres This City lying upon the Frontiers of both Empires has been taken and retaken by the Turks and Persians several times By which means the old City being ruin'd they have built a new one 800 Paces on this side upon a Rock at the foot whereof upon the West-side runs a rapid Stream it is call'd by the Name of Sangui-Cija and in many places it is deep and full of Rocks You cross it over a fair Bridge of three Arches in which are built little Chambers where the Kan retires in the heat of the day It is full of Fish especially Trouts which nevertheless are dear enough This River comes from a Lake called Gigaguni about 25 Leagues from Erivan toward the North and falls into the Aras that runs not above three Leagues off to the South Though this City be fortified to the West by the River yet it is never the stronger by reason of the Hills on the other side which command it and in regard it is built upon a Rock the Moats of the Fort are not above three or four Foot deep In some places the City is secur'd with a double Wall with several Towers but the Walls being only of Earth as are most of the Houses the Rain does more mischief than the Cannon would do That part of Erivan to the North-West is a kind of Suburb but far better inhabited than the City for there live all the Merchants and Artificers together with the Christian Armenians who have four Churches there with a Monastery And of late years they have built also a very fair Inn in the same Quarter In the City there only lives the Kan with the Military Officers and Souldiers the Kan's Lodgings lying upon the River The Governour is a Person of great Power and has always sufficient Forces about him to guard the Frontiers The Summer being very hot at Erivan he lyes in Tents upon the Mountains during the Heat When a Caravan arrives he is forc'd to give the King advice thereof and if any Ambassador come thither he is bound to maintain him at his own Expence and to cause him to be conducted to the Territories of the next Governour who is oblig'd to do the same So that Ambassadors are not bound to be at any Expences in the Territories of the King of Persia. Four Leagues from the City are high Mountains where the Natives that inhabit the hot and Sun-burnt Countries toward Chaldea come twenty thousand together to seek out good Pasturage for their Cattel and about the end of Autumn return again into their own Country I cannot compare this Mountainous Tract whether for its Valleys and Rivers or for the nature of the Soil to any Part that I have seen better than to that portion of Switzerland which is call'd the Country of Vaux and there is a Tradition among the Natives That certain People that inhabited between the Alpes and Mount Jura and which compos'd a Squadron of Alexander's Army having serv'd him in his Conquests seated themselves in this part of Armenia which they found so like their own Country From Tocat to Tauris the Inhabitants are for the most part Christians Which large Tract of Ground being that which the Ancients call'd the Province of Armenia 't is no wonder to meet with fifty Armenians for one Mahometan There are many ancient Armenian Families in Erivan which is their native Country but they are ill us'd by the Governours who being far distant from the Court do what they please This City not being far remote from the Province from whence the Silks come is the place where all the Buyers and Sellers resort But neither in Erivan nor in any other part of Persia are the Merchants put to open their Bales at the Custom-Houses as in Turkie They only pay certain Duties toward securing the Highways which Duties they call Raderies and those that gather them Raders The Kans or Governours of Provinces in Persia are civil to Strangers especially to those that they like or that shew them any thing of Curiosity The first time that I went into Persia I took a young Watch-maker with me and coming to Erivan I carried him to the Kan who was then Governour It was at a time when Watches were very rare in Persia and the Kan understanding what Trade the Young Man was of told us he was the first Watch-maker that ever had been in Persia Thereupon he brought the Young Man a Watch to mend and that he might have the pleasure of seeing him work he lodg'd us in a Chamber next his own and made us drink with him every day for he was a true Toper and compell'd us to drink with him from four in the Afternoon 'till near Midnight in a place which he had made on purpose in his Garden to take off his Glasses This was he that having deliver'd Erivan to Sultan Amurat went along with him to Constantinople and became his Favourite for teaching him to Drink Amurat left a Garrison of 22000 Men in the City but Sha-Sefi the Persian King begirt it presently with a strong Army and planting himself securely under one of the Hills that command the City he batter'd it incessantly with eight Pieces of Cannon the fourth day he made a Breach and though he had the repute of a Coward he was the first at the Assault and took the City and because they would not yield at his Summons he put all the Garrison to the Sword For which Amurat was quit with Sha-Sefi afterwards though not in so noble a way for entring a Victor into Bagdat he put all the Persians
in Gardens There are three Inns with Market-places round about one of the three being large and commodious It is inhabited altogether by Mahometans or if there be any Christians they are very few The Soil about Casbin produces Pistaches The Tree that bears them is never bigger than a Walnut-tree of ten or twelve years old The great quantity of Pistaches that are exported out of Persia come from Malavert a little City twelve Leagues from Ispahan toward the East These are the best Pistaches in the World and the Country being of a large extent produces them in such abundance that it furnishes all Persia and the Indies Leaving Casbin you come to a little Village where there is but one Inn and you travel that day six Leagues through Countries fertil enough and well water'd The next day you travel through a good Country and in nine or ten hours you come to Denghé This is a great Village at the foot of a Hill through which there runs a fair River It abounds with excellent both White and Claret Wine where the Travellers take care to replenish their Bottles But generally they never lye here being desirous to go a League farther for a good Inn's sake which makes it a handsom Stage At this Town of Denghé it is where the two Roads from Tauris to Ispahan meet the first through Ardeüil and Casbin I have already describ'd Hither also come the Caravans that go for the Indies through Meshéhed and Candahar and where they leave Ispahan Road to take the left-hand Way which carries them Eastward CHAP. VI. The ordinary Road from Tauris to Ispahan through Zangan Sultanie and other places WE must now return again to the Lake six Leagues beyond Tauris where they that will take the ordinary short way through Zangan and Sultanie leave the left hand way of Ardeüil and Casbin This Lake is usually full of large red Ducks which are very good Meat From thence after twelve or thirteen hours travel in which time you meet with three Inns you come to Karashima a large Town in a deep Valley that seems to be well manur'd There is in it only a small Inn built of Earth the Doors whereof are so low that the People are forc'd to creep upon their knees to get in The next day you come to another large Village call'd Turcoma where the Soil is fertil though it be very cold There are several Caravansera's built like a long Alley cover'd which are only of Earth the Men lying at one end and the Horses at another The next day you travel over an uneven and desert Country and in eight hours time you come to Miana a little City situated in a Marsh where you pay a Toll for Guarding the Highways In this City is one of the fairest Inns in all Persia. Two hours after you leave Miana you must cross a River over a fair Bridge which runs to decay the Arches whereof are hollow within it is built of Brick and Free-stone being near as long as Pont neuf in Paris This Bridge stands almost at the foot of a Mountain call'd Kaplenton Sha-Abas caus'd all the way to be Pav'd because the Land is so fat and sloughy that when it thaws or that the least Rain falls it is impossible for the Caravan to pass Besides there are a sort of Camels in Persia that when it comes to rain in a deep Soil are not able to keep their Legs nay through the weight of the Burthens which they carry their very Quarters will rive from their Shoulders and their Bellies will burst So that before the way was pav'd they were forc'd to spread Carpets in the most slippery ways where those Camels were to pass which must be still done in some places where the Pavement is worn away At the lower part of the descent toward Ispahan upon the knap of a Hill which stands by it self appears an old forsak'n Fortress it is near the Highway and a River which falls into the Caspian Sea after it has cross'd the Province of Guilan where it is cut into several Channels But generally the Corn and Fruits which grow in Persia by the help of Water forc'd into Channels are of little esteem and much cheaper than those that grow in the Provinces whose Fertility is not Artificial Moreover that sort of forc'd Grain will not keep above a Year and if you keep it longer it breeds a Vermin that eats it 'T is the same thing if the Corn be grownd and more than that there breeds a Worm in the Flowr that makes it so bitter that t is impossible to eat it On this side the Mountain Kaplenton appear at a distance two others very high one toward the North call'd Saveland another toward the South call'd Seharâ—â—â— there is a third which cannot be seen in Ispahan-Road being too far out of the way near the City of Hamadan These three Mountains are full of Springs from whence most of the Streams do fall that water Persia And the Persians do say that formerly there were many more of these Springs but that about a hundred Years ago several of them have been dry'd up or otherwise no body can tell what is become of them There are several Villages near the Mountain that pay nothing to the King but are oblig'd to send him a certain quantity of Rice and Butter for the use of the Mosquee at Ardeüil They have also one great Priviledge That if a Man commits a Murther and flyes to any of these Villages he cannot be apprehended nor can the King himself punish him Leaving the River that runs at the foot of the Mountain Kaplenton you come to a fair Inn call'd Tshamalava built some years ago and for thirteen hours after travelling over a very barren Country you meet with another Inn which is call'd Sartcham standing in a very desert place which makes the Raders that lye there to secure the Highways very insolent finding themselves so far from any Towns or Villages From Sartcham you come to a River by the Banks whereof you travel a good while till you come to an Inn which is call'd Digbé near a large Village The Structure is very handsom the lower part being of Free-stone undulated with red and white and very hard The next day you travel a very uneven Country till you fall into a deep Valley at the end whereof you meet with Zangan a great Town and ill built However it has a very fair Inn which when I went last to Ispahan was so full that I had like to have lain abroad in the Rain but for the Courtesie of two Armenians From Zangan you go to an Inn where you must pay the Duties due to the Kan of Sultanie Sultanie is a very large City which you leave half a Mile from the Road near to a Mountain Formerly it had in it very beautiful Mosquees as may be easily conjectur'd by the Ruines that remain Many Christian Churches also were converted into Mosquees and if
were generally more than in any other Port. But the Captains who rejected his Proposition of fighting against the Venetians believing that he would put some force upon them suddenly hois'd Sail and got away it being at a time when he could not keep them in having no Castle then built to command them The Grand Visier nettl'd at the refusal of the Captains as an affront done to his Master and to see that the Ships could come in and go out without any let or molestation bethought himself to the end he might keep them for the future under subjection of building a Fort upon the Gulf in such a part where the Vessels must necessarily touch where now there lye great Cannons level with the Water which no Vessel can escape Ever since the Convoys will not come to Smyrna as they were wont to do but lye out at Sea out of the reach of the Fort. Near to the Sea are yet to be seen some Remains of a Church two sides whereof seem to have been distinguish'd into Chappels by little Walls which are yet standing But the Natives doubt whether they be the Ruines of a Church dedicated to St. Polycarp or of an ancient Temple of Janus Smyrna has been oftentimes ruin'd either by the Wars or by the Earthquakes which often happen there One time that I staid there there happen'd one which did not last long but was very terrible About sixty Paces from the Sea are to be discern'd the Ruines of great Walls two Foot under Water and at the end of the City that looks toward the Winter-West near to the Sea appear the Ruines of a Mole and certain ancient Magazins The English Merchants have dig'd among the Ruines of Smyrna and have found great store of fair Statues which they transported into their own Country There are still found some or other every day but when the Turks find any they disfigure them presently It may be conjectur'd that there was one of a prodigious bigness by a great Toe broken off of some one and for which I paid sufficiently out of the desire I had to buy it I sent it to Paris to a Person of Quality who look'd upon it as a great Curiosity This Toe was of a hard white Stone and well shap'd and by the proportion whereof the Figure could not be judg'd to be less than the Colossus of Rhodes Upon that side of the City where the Mole was stands an old Castle of no defence at the foot whereof the Sea makes a small Creek where sometimes the Gallies of the Grand Signor lye The City is well peopl'd containing no less than fourscore and ten thousand Souls There are reckon'd no less than 60000 Turks 15000 Greeks 8000 Armenians and about six or seven thousand Jews As for the European Christians that Trade there their number is very small Every one of these Nations has the exercise of their Religion free to themselves The Turks have in Smyrna fifteen Mosquees the Jews seven Synagogues the Armenians but one Church the Greeks two and the Latins three There are also French Jesuits and Italian Observantins or a sort of Grey Franciscans The Turks the Greeks the Armenians and Jews live upon the Hill but all the lower part toward the Sea is inhabited only by the European Christians English French Hollanders and Italians The Greeks have also in the same Quarter an old Church and some few small Houses where Sea-men make merry All these different People of Europe are generally known in Smyrna by the Name of Franks Every Nation has its Consul and the French Consul has two Vice-Consuls under him the one at Scalanova the other at Chio. Scalanova or the New Port is two Leagues beyond Ephesus and being a good Haven the Vessels were wont to unlade there but the Turks would not permit it any longer For that Place being the Dowry of the Grand Signor's Mother the Vice-Consul agreed with the Governour of Scalanova who permitted the Transportation of Goods to Smyrna which is not above three little days journey with the Caravan A thing that spoil'd the Trade of the City and injur'd the Officers of the Custom-House Whereupon they Petition'd the Grand Signor that no more Goods might be unladed at Scalanova so that now no more Vessels go thither unless it be to take in fresh Victuals Chio is one of the greatest Ilands in the Archipelago of which in another place but the Vice-Consul that lives there has no more business there than the other at Scalanova for the Vessels that touch there neither unlade nor export any Goods from thence The Quarter of the Franks is only a long Street one side whereof lyes upon the Sea and as well for the Prospect as for the convenience of Unlading Goods the Houses upon the Sea are much dearer than those that lye upon the Hill The Soil about Smyrna is fertil and abounds in all things necessary for humane support but particularly in good Oyl and good Wine There are Salt-Pits also half a League from the City toward the North. The Sea affords great store of good Fish Fowl is very cheap and in a word Smyrna is a place of great plenty There is a lovely Walk all along the Sea to the Salt-Pits where generally abundance of People walk in the Summer-time to take the fresh Air and there being more liberty at Smyrna than in any other part of Turkie there is no necessity of taking a Janisary along when a man goes abroad If a man loves Fowling it is but taking a Boat which lands him two or three Leagues from the City toward the Mountains where there is so much Game that he can never return empty For the value of three Sous you may buy a red Partridge at Smyrna and all other Fowl is proportionably cheap But if Smyrna have these great advantages it has also its inconveniences the Heats are very excessive in Summer and indeed they would be insupportable were it not for the Breezes that come off the Sea these Breezes rise about ten in the Morning and continue till the Evening but if they fail t is very bad for the Inhabitants Besides there hardly passes a Year but the City is infested with the Plague which however is not so violent as in Christendom The Turks neither fear it nor flie it believing altogether in Predestination Yet I believe if the Inhabitants of Smyrna would take care to drain away the standing Puddles that gather in the Winter about the City they would not be so frequently molested with the Plague as they are It is most rife in May June and July but the malignant Fevers that succeed it in September and October are more to be fear'd more People dying of them than of the Pestilence In all my Travels I never was in Smyrna at these unfortunate Seasons There is no Basha in that City it being govern'd only by a Cady who is not so severe to the Christians as in other places For should he
River The sixth day we pass'd by the Walls of the ancient Philadelphia call'd at present Allachars which was also one of the Seven Churches of Asia There is something of Beauty still remaining in those Walls and the City is very large but ill peopl'd It is situated upon four little Hills at the foot of a high Mountain over-looking a fair Plain to the North that produces excellent Fruit. To witness its Antiquity there is yet the Ruines of an Amphitheater with certain Sepulchers from whence the Inhabitants report that the European Christians took out the Bodies that were buried there and transported them into Europe believing them to be the Bodies of Saints It is now all destroy'd but re-built of Earth by the Turks after their mode It was formerly one of the principal Cities of Mysia and in regard it was alway very subject to Earthquakes the most part of her Inhabitants liv'd in the Country The last time I travel'd that way in the year 1664 the seventeenth of June the Turks were feasting and rejoycing upon the News as they said which they had receiv'd of the defeat of the Christians in Candy But the News was false and only contriv'd to encourage the People for the Grand Signor was then making Levies in those Parts We lodg'd that day after seven hours travel upon the Bank of a small River a League and a half from Philadelphia The seventh day we travel'd eleven hours over a Mountain where those Trees plentifully grow that bear Galls and Valanede which is the shell or rind of an Acorn that Curriers make use of to dress their Leather We lodg'd in a Meadow on the top of a Mountain which is call'd Ijagli-bogase or The Mountain of Robbers The eighth day we continu'd our Journey over the same Mountain which is a very barren Country where there is no Provision to be had We travel'd but six hours and lodg'd near a River in a Plain call'd Sarrouc abaqui The ninth day the Caravan travel'd thorough dry Lands where there is not one Village to be seen and lodg'd near a Bridge built over a River call'd Copli-sou in the Plain of Inahi The tenth day after we had travel'd eight hours over an uneven and barren Country we stopt in a Valley near a River call'd Bana-sou the Water whereof is not good In the Night there arose a Tempest that put us all in a disorder and the Rain that fell was as cold as is it had been in the depth of Winter We were wet to the Skins and were forc'd to throw Coverlets over the Bales to keep the Goods from being spoyl'd The eleventh day we travel'd through a pleasant Country between Vales adorn'd with a most delightful Verdure and we were in view as we pass'd along of certain hot Baths though very little regarded We lodg'd upon the Banks of a small River by the side whereof we had travel'd for some hours The twelfth day we continu'd our Road for six hours between the same Vallies and lodg'd by a River The thirteenth day we travel'd eight hours and stop'd near to a Village in a Country call'd Doüagasse The fourteenth after a Journey of seven hours we pass'd by the Walls of Aphiom-Carassar that is The Black City of Aphiom or Opium because it has a Prospect over a fair and large Country well cultivated where they sow great store of Poppies whence they draw their Opium or Aphiom as the Turks call it Aphiom-Carassar is a great City dirty and ill built the ancient Name whereof I could never learn for the Greeks and Armenians are very ignorant But according to all probability and the situation of the place it ought to be the ancient Hierapolis situated upon the Maeander a famous River of the Lesser Asia that winds and turns the most of any River in the World And indeed we are the more to seek in regard the Turks change the ancient Names according to their own custom and pleasure and give no other Names to Rivers than that of the principal City through which they pass or else deriving their Names from the Colour of their Sands There is to be seen in that City an ancient Castle of Free-stone upon the Point of a high Rock separated from the Mountains that are next it toward the South which make a Semicircle All the Armenian Christians Subjects to the King of Persia passing thorough Aphiom-Carassar must there pay Carage from which they are not exempted though they have paid it before at Erzerom or elsewhere The Caravan does not stop at Aphiom-Carassar as well for that there are no Inns but what are ruin'd as for that about a League farther there is a place where you have excellent Fish and very cheap and they of the City bring Barley Straw and other things which the Caravan wants The Caravan therefore that day lodges upon the Banks of Maeander which is to be cross'd over a Bridge not far distant from a small Village In this River are great store of Crawfish and Carps and the Fishermen will be sure to attend upon the Caravan I have seen some Carps there above three Foot long The fifteenth our Caravan began to part it self some for Tocat some for the Road to Aleppo the one part taking the right-hand Road toward the Winter-East for Syria the other the left-hand Road North-East for Armenia After we were parted we travel'd two or three hours in sight of one another They that go to Aleppo fall into Tarsus where St. Paul was born and from Tarsus to Alexandretta But we continu'd our Road to Tocat and after we had cross'd a great Plain having travel'd six hours we lodg'd in a Mershy place near a small Village There is one thing remarkable in this Road as in many others which manifests the Charity of the Turks For in most of the high Roads that are far from Rivers they have set up Cisterns whither when the Rains fail the neighbouring Villages bring Water for the Travellers who would else be very much distress'd The sixteenth we travel'd eight hours through a very even Country but ill manur'd where we saw a little City call'd Boulavandi There are some Mosquees which the Turks have built out of the Ruines of the ancient Greek Churches from which they have taken Pillars of Marble and other pieces of Architecture to adorn their Sepulchers without any order at all which you meet with very often upon the high Roads the number is the greater because they never lay two Bodies in one Grave There is also in this City an Inn cover'd with Lead which is all the Beauty of it nor do Travellers make any use of it but only in foul weather We lodg'd a League and a half from the City and staid there all the next day The seventeenth we travel'd eleven hours through a mix'd and uneven Country and came to lodge in a Village where there are not above three or four Houses though there be excellent Pasturage about it There is
would needs give me a tast of their Art notwithstanding all the care I took There were three or four of us that would needs ride before with our Servants to Taquibac in expectation of the Caravan which was to come the next day where we set up our Tents upon the Bank of a small River I had then a good many Bales of Wool with which I made as it were a double Wall about my Tent so that there was but one passage between the Bales for one Man In four of these Bales I had a quantity of Musk in lead'n Boxes to the value of ten or twelve thousand Crowns which Bales I put within-side so that they touch'd the Tent and my Beds-head Next Night it being very dark the Thieves came and finding the outward Bales smell so strong of Musk they thought one of those Bales would be a considerable Booty The Bales were all ty'd together with a Cord that kept them fast nor was it easie to undo them without a noise They wak'd me with their bustle at first and I sent out my Servants to see if they could catch them but they will lye so close upon their Bellies that in such a dark Night as that was t is impossible to discover them Thereupon my Servants went to sleep again and the Thieves to their work and having with a great deal of ingenuity cut the Cord they carried away the two Bales In the Morning four or five of us with a Camel-driver for our Guide pursu'd them and in half an hour we met with the marks of the Robbery for the Rogues being mad that they found nothing but Wool which they thought to be of no great value scatter'd it in the High-way for two or three Leagues together so that I caus'd it to be pickt up again and lost not above fifteen or twenty Pound I speak this to caution the Merchants that carry Bales of Silk or other rich Commodities to beware of these Thieves for they will come creeping upon their Bellies and then cutting the Bales with great Razors will presently empty a Bale of one half of the Goods 'T is true the Wool was of no great value for their use but it was a sort of rare and very fine Wool which I carry'd out of Persia to Paris where such fine Wool was never seen As to the place where it is to be had I met with one of the Gaures or Persians that adore the Fire who when I was at Ispahan in the year 1647 shew'd me a Sample of it and inform'd me that the greatest part of this Wool comes from the Province of Kerman which is the ancient Caramania and that the best Wool is to be met with in the Mountains that are next to the City that bears the name of the Province That the Sheep in those Parts have this particular property that when they have fed upon new Grass from January till May the Fleece falls off of it self and leaves the Sheep naked and their Skins smooth like a Pig 's that is scalded off so that there is no need of shearing them as with us after they have gather'd it they beat it and the course Wool breaking the fine only remains That if you transport it before you make it into Bales you must throw Salt-water upon it which keeps the Worms out of it and preserves it from rotting Now you must take notice that they never dye this Wool it being naturally of a clear Brown or a dark Ash-colour and that there is very little of it White which is also much dearer than the other as well for that it is scarce as because that the Mufti 's the Moullah's and other persons belonging to the Law never wear any Girdles or Vails wherewith they cover their Heads when they pray but White for at other times they wear them about their Necks as the Women do their Scarfs Into this Province of Kerman almost all the Gaures are retir'd and they are they that only Trade in this Wool and have the whole Manufacture of it They make those Girdles of it which they use in Persia and some Pieces of Serge which are almost as fine and transparent as if they were of Silk I brought over two Pieces into France and presented one to the late Queen Mother the other to the Princess of Orleance I could not drive any Trade in this Wool till the year 1654 returning out of the Indies by Sea from Surat to Ormus To which purpose I departed from Ormus and took Guides along with me to shew me the way to Kerman whither I could not get on Horseback in less than twenty-seven days I dare say that Alexander the Great did not march this way into the Indies for in the whole extent of the the Country there is no Water to be met with but in some certain places and in the hollow of some Rocks where there is not enough neither to water eight or ten Horses Besides in some places a man is constrain'd by reason of the Mountains to fetch a great compass about for a Foot-man that makes his way through those Rocks shall go farther in half an hour than a Horse-man can do in four Kerman is a large City which has been often ruin'd by being several times taken and re-taken nor is there any thing handsom in it but only one House and a Garden upon which the last Kans have bestow'd a vast expence to make the place delightful They make there a sort of Earthen-ware which comes very near to Porcelan and looks as neat and as fine As soon as I arriv'd I went to visit the Kan who made me very welcom and gave order to the Gaures to furnish me with Bread and Wine Pullets and Pigeons which in those parts are fat and as large as little Capons The Gaures are they that make the Wine and to make it more sweet and pleasant they take away the Stalks and never press any thing but the meer Grape The Kan was but newly entred into the possession of his Government and being desirous according to the custom of the new Governours to have a noble Sword and Dagger with a rich Furniture for his Horse which requir'd some Jewels I presented him with a Diamond worth eight hundred Crowns which he caus'd to be set in the end of the handle of his Dagger He also desir'd to have of me as many more Jewels as came to seven or eight hundred Livres and by the Present and the Bargain I facilitated my purchase of the Wool which I intended to buy Two days after he invited me to his Entry-Feast which he made for the chief of the City and knowing I wanted a Mule he sent me one well worth a hundred Crowns This is the Noblest Carriage in all Persia which the great Personages choose before Horses especially when they are in years But it was not the Kan alone who was civil to me A young Lord who liv'd in Kerman and was at the
some Armenians of my acquaintance In which time I found the general Opinion to be true For certainly the Women of Yezd are the handsomest Women in all Persia. There is no Feast made but five or six of them come to divertise the Guests with Dancing who are generally none of the meanest Beauties and Conversations among them However it comes to pass the Persian Proverb is That to live happy a Man must have a Wife of Yezd cat the Bread of Yezdecas and drink the Wine of Schiras CHAP. X. Of the Caravansera's and Government of the Caravans THE Caravansera's are the Eastern Inns far different from ours for they are neither so convenient nor so handsom They are built square much like Cloysters being usually but one Story high for it is rare to see one of two Stories A wide Gate brings ye into the Court and in the midst of the Building in the front and upon the right and left hand there is a Hall for Persons of the best Quality to keep together On each side of the Hall are Lodgings for every man by himself These Lodgings are rais'd all along the Court two or three Steps high just behind which are the Stables where many times it is as good lying as in the Chamber Some will rather lye there in the Winter because they are warm and are roof'd as well as the Chambers Right against the Head of every Horse there is a Nich with a Window into the Lodging-Chamber out of which every man may see how his Horse is look'd after There Niches are usually so large that three men may lye in them and there it is that the Servants usually dress their Victuals There are two forts of Inns. For some are endow'd where you may be receiv'd for Charities sake others where you must pay for what you call for There are none of the first but between Buda and Constantinople Nor is it lawful for any others to build such but only the Mother and Sisters of the Grand Signor or such Viziers and Basha's as have been three times in Battel against the Christians In these Inns which are built out of Legacies there is a very good allowance of Diet to Travellers and at your departure you have nothing to do but to thank the Benefactor But from Constantinople to Persia there are none of those endow'd Inns only such where you have nothing but bare Walls It is for you to provide Utensils for your Kitchin and a Bed to lye on as for Provision the people bring Lambs Pullets Butter and Fruits in their feasons or else you may buy it provided before-hand by the Master of the House There you also meet with Barley and Straw for the Horses unless it be in some few places that I have been at upon the Road. In the Country you pay nothing for your Chambers but in the Cities you pay something though it be but a small matter Usually the Caravans never go into the Towns which are not able to contain so many People and Horses When you come to your Quarters every one looks after his own Chamber for there is no regard to Poor or Rich sometimes out of Breeding or out of Interest an ordinary Tradesman will give way to a great Merchant but no man is permitted to leave the Chamber which he has once made choice of In the night the Inn-keeper shuts up his Gates being answerable for all things that shall be lost for which reason he keeps a Guard about the Inn. As for the Persian Caravansera's they are more commodious and better built than those of Turkie and at more reasonable distances throughout almost all the Country By which description of Inns it is easie to observe that though these Caravansera's are not so commodious for the Rich as our European Inns yet they are more convenient for the Poor to whom they never refuse to give admittance no person being oblig'd to eat or drink more than he pleases but every one being allow'd to spend according to his Stock without grumbling You may travel in Turkie or Persia either with the Caravan or else in company ten or twelve together or else alone with a Guide The safest way is to go with the Caravan though you are longer upon the Road by reason of the slowness of their march especially when the Caravans consist of Camels The Caravans are as it were great Convoys which consist of a good number of Merchants that meet at certain times and places to put themselves into a condition to defend themselves from Thieves that are very rise in Troops in several desert places upon the Road. These Merchants choose among themselves a Caravan-Bashi who orders them how they shall march assigns the places of lodging at night and who with the chief of the Caravan is a kind of Judge of the differences that fall out by the way There is no honest man that covets the employment for the Caravan-Bashi being to discharge several small duties upon the Road however he behave himself is still suspected for his fidelity When the Turks are most numerous they make choice of a Turk when the Armenian Merchants are most they choose an Armenian There are two sorts of Caravans There are Caravans which consist of Camols which are the most usual in regard that Camels are cheap and for that some Camels will carry as much as three Horses others as much as four or five But among the Caravans of Camels there are several Horses and Mules which the Merchants themselves ride upon it being very tedious to ride upon a Camel when he only goes a foot-pace but very pleasant when he goes upon his large trot There are other Caravans that consist only of Horses and among these if the Merchant have none of his own he may hire one The Servants ride upon those Horses that are least laden but at Smyrna you may meet with several good Horses very cheap from thirty to sixty Crowns As for those persons that are either unwilling or unable to be at any expence they make use of Asses of which there are enow to be had Above all things you must take care to provide Pack-Horses to carry your Wine for the Camel-Masters being Mahometans will not permit you to lade their Camels with any such Liquor that Beast being particularly consecrated to Mahomet who so strictly forbad the use of Wine You put your Wine in Bottles made of wild Goats Skins with the hairy side turn'd innermost and well pitch'd within There are some of these Bottles from which they take off the Hair but they are not so good as being seldom without holes These Camel-Masters are an insolent sort of people which you shall never know how to deal with unless you can bring them to punishment There was one that play'd me some of his jades tricks in the Road from Smyrna to Tauris but when I came to Escrivan I complain'd to the Kan who presently caus'd a hundred Bastnado's to be giv'n him upon
which time has not defac'd From Shaquemin you come to dine at a Village call'd Angare where every Traveller isentertain'd for his Piaster as at the other Stages Between the other Villages it is ten hours journey but between Angare and Aleppo but three We alighted at the French Consul's House at what time the Customers came presently to search our Cloak-bags after which we went to the Quaissery which is a place where all Strangers are at the expence of half a Crown a day for themselves and a quarter so much for every Servant and are well entertain'd CHAP. II. The Description of Aleppo now the Capital City of Syria A Leppo is one of the most famous Cities in all Turkie as well for the bigness and beauty of it as for the goodness of the Air and plenty of all things together with the great Trade which is driv'n there by all the Nations of the World It lyes in 71 Deg. 41 Min. of Longitude and 36 Deg. 15 Min. of Latitude in an excellent Soil With all the search that I could make I could never learn how it was anciently call'd Some would have it to be Hierapolis others Beroea and the Christians of the Country agree with the latter The Arabian Historians that record the taking of it call it only Aleb not mentioning any other name Whence this Observation is to be made That if the Arabians call it Aleb others Alep the reason is because the Arabians never use the Letter P in their Language This City was tak'n by the Arabians in the fifteenth Year of the Hegyra of Mahomet which was about the Year of CHRIST 637 in the Reign of Heraclius Emperour of Constantinople The City is built upon four Hills and the Castle upon the highest that stands in the middle of Aleppo being supported by Arches in some places for fear the Earth should tumble and moulder away from it The Castle is large and may be about five or six hundred Paces in compass The Walls and Towers though built of Free-stone are of little defence There is but one Gate to enter into it from the South over a Draw-bridge laid over certain Arches cross a Moat about six or seven Fathom deep There is but one half of it full of Water and that a standing Puddle to boot the rest is a meer dry Ditch so that it cannot be accounted a wholsom place However there is Water brought into the Castle through a large Pipe from the Fountains in the City and there is a strong Garrison kept in it The City is above three Miles in circuit and the best half of it is unmoated that Moat there is not above three Fathom deep The Walls are very good and all of Free-stone with several square Towers distant one from the other about fourscore Paces between which there are others also that are less But these Walls are not all of them of an equal height for in some places they are not above four Fathoms from the Ground There are ten Gates to enter into the City without either Moat or Draw-Bridge under one of which there is a place that the Turks have in great veneration where they keep Lamps continually burning and report that Elisha the Prophet liv'd for some time There is no River that runs through Aleppo and but only a small one without the City which the Arabians call Coïc. However though indeed it be but properly a Rivulet yet it is very useful to water the Gardens where grows an abundance of Fruit particularly Pistaches much bigger and better tasted than those that comes from the parts near Casbin But though there be no River yet there are store of Fountains and Receptacles of Water which they bring from two places distant from the City The Edifices neither publick nor private are very handsom but only withinside the Walls are of Marble of several colours and the Cieling of Foliage Fret-work with Inscriptions in Gold'n Letters Without and within the City there are six and twenty Mosquees six or seven whereof are very magnificent with stately Duomo's three being cover'd with Lead The chiefest and largest of all was a Christian Church which they call'd Alhha or Listen'd unto which is thought to have been built by St. Helen In one part of the Suburbs also stands another Mosquee which was formerly a Christian Church In that there is one thing worthy observation In the Wall upon the right side of the Gate there is a Stone to be seen two or three Foot square wherein there is the figure of a handsom Chalice and a Sacrifice over the hollow of it with a Crescent that covers the Sacrifice the two Horns whereof descend just upon the brims of the mouth of the Chalice One would think at first that those Figures were in Mosaïc-Work but it is all Natural as I have found with several other Franks having scrap'd the Stone with an Iron Instrument when the Turks were out of the way Several Consuls would have bought it and there has been offer'd for it 2000 Crowns but the Basha's of Aleppo would never suffer it to be sold. Half a League from the City lyes a pleasant Hill where the Franks are wont to take the Air. On the side of that Hill is to be seen a Cave or Grotto where the Turks report that Haly liv'd for some few days and for that there is an ill-shap'd figure of a Hand imprinted in the Rock they farther believe it to be the Hand of Haly. There are three Colledges in Aleppo but very few Scholars though there be Men of Learning that belong to them who have Salaries to teach Grammar and their odd kind of Philosophy with the Grounds of their Religion which are the Principal Sciences to which the Turks apply themselves The Streets of the City are all pav'd except the Bazar's where the Merchants and Handicraft-Tradesmen keep their Shops The chiefest Artists and the most numerous are Silk and Chamlet-Weavers In the City and Suburbs there are about forty Inns and fifty publick Baths as well for Women as for Men keeping their turns 'T is the chiefest Pastime the Women have to go to the Baths and they will spare all the Week long to carry a Collation when they go at the Weeks end to make merry among themselves in those places of privacy The Suburbs of the City are large and well peopl'd for almost all the Christians have their Houses and Churches there Of which Christians there are four sorts in Aleppo I mean of Eastern Christians that is to say Greeks Armenians Jacobites or Syrians and Maronites The Greeks have an Archbishop there and are about fifteen or sixteen thousand in number their Church is dedicated to St. George The Armenians have a Bishop whom they call Vertabet and are about twelve thousand in number their Church is dedicated to the Virgin The Jacobites being about ten thousand have a Bishop also and their Church is likewise dedicated to the Virgin as is that of the Armenians
The Maronites depend upon the Pope not being above twelve hundred their Church being consecrated to St. Elias The Roman Catholicks have three Churches serv'd by the Capuchins Carmelites and Jesuites They reckon that in the Suburbs and City of Aleppo there are about 250000 Souls There is a vast Trade at Aleppo for Silks and Chamlets but chiefly for Gall-Nuts and Valanede which is a sort of Acorn-shell without which the Curriers cannot dress their Leather They have also a great Trade for Soap and for several other Commodities the Merchants repairing thither from all parts of the World For not to speak of the Turks Arabians Persians Indians there are several English Italians French and Hollanders every Nation having their Consul to carry on their Interests and maintain their Priviledges Nor does this place happ'n to be so great a Mart through the convenience of the two Rivers of Tigris and Euphrates as some have writt'n by which they say such vast quantities of Commodities are transported and imported out and into the City For had that been I should never have cross'd the Desert coming from Bagdat to Aleppo nor at another time going from Aleppo to Balsara And as for Euphrates certain it is that the great number of Mills built upon it to bring the Water to the neighbouring Grounds have not only render'd it unnavigable but made it very dangerous I must confess that in the year 1638 I saw a great part of the Grand Signor's Army and several Boats full of Warlike Provisions fall down the Stream when he went to besiege it but then they were forc'd to take away all the Mills that are upon the River which was not done without a vast trouble and expence As for Tigris it is not navigable 'till beyond Babylon down to Balsara where you may take Water and be at Balsara in nine days But the Voyage is very inconvenient for at every Town which the Arabs have upon the River you must be hal'd and be forc'd to leave some Money behind you Sometimes indeed the Merchants of Moussul and Bagdat and others that come out of Chaldea to Trade at Balsara carry their Goods by Water from Bagdat but in regard the Boats are only to be tow'd by Men it takes them up a Voyage of seventy days By this you may judge of the time and expence of carrying Goods by Water up the River Euphrates to Bi r where they are to be unlad'n for Aleppo In short if the convenience of Morat-sou for so the Turks call Euphrates were to be had and that Goods might be transported by that River the Merchants would never take that way for the Arabian Princes with their People and their Cattel lying all the Summer long upon the Banks of the River for the sake of the Water and the Grass would make the Merchants pay what Toll they pleas'd themselves I saw an Example of this coming one time from Babylon to Aleppo In all which Road we met but with one of those Arabian Princes who lay at Anna yet he made us pay for every Camel's Load forty Piasters And which was worse he detain'd us above five Weeks to the end his Subjects might get more of our Money by selling us their Provisions The last time I pass'd the Desert I met another of these Arabian Princes together with his Brother both young Men He would not let us go a step farther unless we would exchange two hundred Piasters in specie for Larins the Money of the Country and he forc'd us to take them what-ever we could urge to make it appear how much we should lose by them And indeed we said as much as we could for the dispute lasted two and twenty days to no purpose might overcoming right By this you may guess what the other Arabians would do who are not a jot more civil and whether the Merchants would get by taking the Road of Euphrates The City is govern'd by a Basha who commands all the Country from Alexandretta to Euphrates His Guard usually consists of three hundred Men and some years ago he was made a Vizier There is also an Aga or Captain of the Cavalry as well within the City as without who commands four hundred Men. There is another Aga who has under him seven hundred Janizaries who has the charge of the Gates of the City to whom the Keys are carry'd every Evening neither has he any dependance upon the Basha The Castle is also under another Commander sent immediately from Constantinople who has under him two hundred Musketeers and likewise the charge of the Cannon of which there are about thirty Pieces eight great Guns the rest of a small size There is also another Aga or Captain of the City who commands three hundred Harquebuzes beside a Sou-Bashi who is a kind of Provost of the Merchants or Captain of the Watch going the round every Night with his Officers through the City and Suburbs He also puts in Execution the Sentences of the Basha upon Criminal Offenders In Civils there is a Cadi who sits sole Judge without any Assistants of all Causes as well Civil as Criminal and when he has condemn'd any Man to Death he sends him to the Basha together with his Accusation with whom the Basha does as he pleases This Cady makes and dissolves all Contracts of Marriage all Acts of Sale and Purchase pass in his presence He also creates the sworn Masters of every Trade who make their inspection that there may be no deceit in the Work The Grand Signor's Duties are receiv'd by a Tefterdar or Treasurer-General who has under him several Receivers in divers places In matters of Religion the Mufti is the Chief and the Interpreter of the Law as well in relation to the Ceremonies as in all Ecclesiastical differences Among these Interpreters of the Law there is a Chieke or Doctor appointed to instruct those that are newly converted to Mahumetanism and to teach them the Maxims and Customs of their Religion Three days after I arriv'd at Aleppo Sultan Amurat made his Entry going to his Army which was upon its march to the Siege of Babylon Now you must take notice that not far from Aleppo toward the East there stands a House inhabited by the Dervies which are a Religious Order among the Turks though it formerly belong'd to the Monks of St. Basil and was a fair Covent It is still in good repair the Walls of the Chambers Halls and Galleries being all of Marble All the Dervies of this House went half a League from the City as far as Mount Ozelet to meet the Grand Signor and the Superiour at the Head of the rest having made a Speech to his Highness two Dervies came and made their obeisance in particular Which being perform'd from that place to the Castle of Aleppo for half an hours march together they went just before the Grand Signor's Horse turning round continually with all their might 'till they soam'd again at the Mouth and dazl'd the
Eyes of those that beheld them There are some of these Dervies that will turn in that manner for two hours together and glory in that which we account folly While the Grand Signor staid at Aleppo the Basha of Cayro came thither with a thousand Janizaries And indeed there never was a sight of Men more active or better order'd Every one of them had Scarlet Breeches that reach'd down to their Ancles with a Turkie-Robe of English Cloth and a Wast-coat of Calicut painted with several Colours The most part had Buttons of Gold and Silk and as well their Girdles as their Scimitars were adorn'd with Silver The Basha march'd at the Head of this Magnificent Regiment in a modest Garb but the Harness of his Horse was as rich as his Habit seem'd to be careless having spar'd for no Cost to appear before the Grand Signor in a stately Equipage There is a necessity for a Man to stay some time at Aleppo as well to dispose of his Affairs and in expectation 'till the Caravan be ready unless he will venture himself alone without a Guide which I have done more than once And thus much for Aleppo next to Constantinople and Cayro the most considerable City in all the Turkish Empire CHAP. III. Of several Roads in general from Aleppo to Ispahan and particularly of the Road through the great Desert THere are five principal Roads from Aleppo to Ispahan which being added to those other Roads which I have describ'd through Natolia make seven Roads into Persia parting from Constantinople Smyrna or Aleppo The first of the five Roads setting out from Aleppo is upon the left hand toward the Summer-East through Diarbek and Tauris The second directly East by Mesopotamia through Moussul and Amadan The third upon the right hand toward the Winter-East through Bagdat and Kengavar The fourth somewhat more to the South crossing a little Desert through Anna Bagdat and Balsara The fifth through the great Desert which is an extraordinary Road never travel'd but once a year when the Merchants of Turkie and Egypt go to buy Camels Of these Roads I intend to treat distinctly and in several Chapters And first of the Road through the great Desert The Caravans that go to Balsara this way never set out 'till the Rains are fal'n that they may not want Water in the Desert and the Rain seldom holds up 'till December This Caravan with which I travel'd set out upon Christmas-day consisting of about six hundred Camels and four hundred Men Masters and Servants together the Caravan-Bashi being only on Horse-back and riding before to find Water and convenient places to lodge in I must confess I had the convenience my self to ride my own Horse which I kept all the while I was at Aleppo A liberty permitted the Franks only at Constantinople Smyrna and Aleppo for at Damas Seyde or Cayro none but the Consuls are suffer'd to keep Horses others can only keep or hire Asses which stand ready in the publick Streets at all times The next day we dislodg'd by day-break and by noon we came to a place where there were five Wells about five hundred Paces distant one from the other The Water was excellent and eaus'd us to replenish our Borache's and about four a Clock in the Afternoon we lay at a place where there was no Water The next day near noon we met with two Wells but the Water was not good and only the Camels drank of it there we also lodg'd that night Having now travel'd two days in the Desert I will describe it in a few words You begin to enter upon it two or three Leagues from Aleppo where by degrees you meet with nothing but Tents instead of Houses It stretches out to the Winter-East all along the Euphrates to Balsara and the Shoar of the Gulf of Persia and upon the South to the Chain of Mountains that divides it from Arabia Petraea and Arabia the Happy These Deserts are almost quite thorough nothing but Plains of Sand which in some places lye looser than in others and are hardly passable 'till the Rains are but newly fal'n and have knit the Sands together 'T is a rare thing to meet with a Hill or a Valley in these Deserts if you do there is as surely Water and as many Bushes as will serve to boyl a little Rice For throughout the whole Desert there is no Wood to be found and all the Bavins and Charcoal that you can load upon Camels at Aleppo will not last above eight or ten days Therefore you must take notice that of six hundred Camels that pass through the Desert there are searce fifty laden with Merehandize which is generally course Cloth some little Iron Ware but chiefly black and blew Calicuts which the Arabians make use of without ever whitening them All the other Camels are only laden with Provision and all little enough so many People being to travel for so many days through so long a Tract of Ground where there is nothing in the World to sustain Life and Soul together For the first fifteen days travel we met with Water but once in two days and sometimes not above once in three days The twentieth day after we set out from Aleppo the Caravan lay at a place where there were two Wells and the Water very good Every one was glad of the convenience of washing his Linnen and the Caravan-Bashi made account to have staid there two or three days But the News that we receiv'd caus'd us to alter our Resolutions For we had no seener giv'n order to dress our Suppers when we saw a Courier with three Arabs all mounted upon Dromedaries who were sent to carry the news of the Taking of Babylon to Aleppo and other Cities of the Empire They stop'd at the Wells to let their Beasts drink and immediately the Caravan-Bashi and the principal persons of the Caravan made them a small Present of dry'd Fruits and Granates Who thereupon were so kind as to tell us that the Camels which carry'd the Baggage belonging to the Grand Signor and his Train being tyr'd his Officers would be sure to seize upon ours if they should chance to meet with us they advis'd us moreover not to come near Anna lest the Emir should stop us Upon this news we departed three hours after midnight and keeping directly to the South we put our selves into the midst of the Desert Eight days after we came to lye at a place where were three Wells and three or four Houses We staid there two days to take fresh Water and we were just setting forward again when thirty Horsemen well mounted came from one of the Emirs to tell the Caravan-Bashi that he must stop his Caravan We staid impatiently for him three days and at length he came and was presented by the Caravan-Bashi with a piece of Satin half a piece of Searlet Cloth and two large Copper Cauldrons Now although those Cauldrons could not but be very acceptable to an
at the Inn but the two Capuchins and I lay at a private Christian's House who carry'd us to the Church where was then the Vertabet or Bishop of Merdin It was a pitiful poor Church where they had nothing but two Planks supported with four Sticks instead of an Altar They dare not leave any Furniture in it but as soon as the Priest has said Service he must have a care to take away every thing as well the Planks as the Covering of the Altar which was only a Painted Cloth For the Turks that travel that way if it be foul weather will break open the Door put their Horses there burn the Altar and take away whatever they find In the Village where we lay there was a Pond the sides whereof were surrounded with fair Free-stones which were fetch'd from the Christian Churches and the Tombs of the Christians thereabouts Among the rest there was one very large Stone with an Epitaph upon it in large Latin Letters whereby we knew it to be the Tomb-stone of a Norman Gentleman who had been a Captain of Foot The Bishop inform'd us that it is recorded in the Armenian Stories that the French were a long time in this Country at what time the Christians were Masters of Syria This Country is all a large Plain about twenty Leagues in length which might be well manur'd and make the Inhabitants rich did not the Tyranny of the Turks and the Incursions of the Arabs reduce them to the utmost degree of Poverty The twenty-fifth after we had travel'd eight hours we lay at a Village call'd Cousasar where there was no Inn. There were formerly three great Monasteries a quarter of a League one from the other The Turks have ruin'd two all but the Steeples of the Churches that belong'd to them The third which stands all entire and is the fairest Pile of Building serves for a Mosquee They have made Shops round about the Cloysters in the middle of which is a fair Spring of Water The twenty-seventh we lay still at Cousasar being the place where you must pay the Customs of Diarbequir which is not above two days journey off amounting to two Piasters and a fourth part for every Load of Merchants Goods Merdin is not above two Leagues from Cousasar This is a little City seated upon a Mountain with good Walls and a fair Fountain replenish'd from the Castle which stands upon the North side in a place yet higher that commands the City where there lives a Basha who has under him two hundred Spahi's and four hundred Janizaries Merdin is the place where was born the Lady Maani Gioerida the first Wife of Pietro de la Valle so well known for his famous Travels As for Cousasar which is a large Village it is inhabited for the most part by Armenian Christians and Nestorians The Armenians perform Divine Service in their own Language the Nestorians in the Chaldaïc The latter shew'd me two Bibles in a large Volume in the same Language writt'n in Vellum all the Capital Letters being in Gold and Azure They seem'd to be very old and one of their Priests told me that it is 937 years ago since one of them was writt'n the other not above 374 since When Service is done they put them in a Chest and hide them under Ground I would have giv'n 200 Piasters for the oldest but they durst not sell it in regard it belong'd to the Church and was not at their disposal The twenty-seventh after we had travel'd nine hours we arriv'd at Karasara which had been formerly a great Town and no doubt inhabited by Christians as appears by seven or eight Churches half ruin'd though the Steeples are little the worse They stand at a good distance one from the other and upon the North-side of one of those Churches there is a Gallery at the end whereof through a little Door you descend about a hundred Steps every Step being ten Inches thick When you come under the Church you meet with a larger and bigger Vault supported with Pillars The Building is so contriv'd that there is more light below than in that above but of late years the Earth has stop'd up several Windows The great Altar is in the Rock on the right side whereof is a Room which receives the light from several Windows contriv'd in the Rock Over the Gate of the Church was a great Free-stone wherein were certain Letters that I could not read On the North-side of the same Church under Ground are to be seen two great Cisterns each four hundred and fifty Paces long with two great Arches sustain'd with several Pillars Every year they fill them with the Water that falls from the next Mountain and makes a kind of a River A quarter of a League from the Church you descend the Mountain for above a hundred Paces together among the Rocks on each side whereof are Rooms cut out of the Rock Upon every Door there is a Cross and in every Room as it were a Bench and a Table with a little place about the length of a Man like a Bedsted all cut out of the Rock At the bottom of the Rock is a Hall round about the Wall whereof is a Bench to sit on The Roof is all plain without any Arch in the middle whereof there is a Hole to the top of the Mountain but in regard it gives no light 't is very probable 't was only made to let out the Smoak when they drest their Meat or else to let in the fresh Air as I have seen in many Villages upon the Persian Gulf. Upon the highest of those Mountains stands a paltry Village where they buy their Victuals But before the Caravan arrives certain Merchants ride before to inform themselves from the Herdsmen whether they know of any Thieves in the Grotto's that often hide themselves there in expectation of Prey In the year 1638 Sultan Amur at going to besiege Babylon march'd this very way as well to see these Ruines as to give order for the demolishing a Fort that stood not above two Leagues off of Karasera which the Thieves of the Country made their place of retreat He also at the same time caus'd the Road to be clear'd for four days journey by ord'ring the Stones to be pickt up and laid in heaps all along the Road. He also built a Bridge over the River And indeed that March of the Grand Signor was very advantageous to all Travellers that pass this way The twenty-eighth we travel'd eight hours and came to Nesbin anciently Nisibis Two or three hours travel on this side near the Road is a kind of Hermitage being a small Room enclos'd with Walls the Door whereof is so low that a Man must creep upon his Belly to get in Three or four Jews went and perform'd their Devotions at this Hermitage believing it to be the place where the Prophet Elisha was buried The Country from Cousasar to Nesbin is a large Plain where for the first
every leaf they are like our Lilly's but much bigger And to drink the infusion of the Roots of these Lilly's especially those whose Leaves are blackest for fifteen days together is a most Soveraign remedy against the Pox. Not long after came a Person of a goodly Aspect who seem'd to be an Arabian but he spoke the Persian Language whom Solyman Kan had sent to Compliment the Ambassador He carry'd us to the Tent which the Governour had caus'd to be set up in a Garden near the Town where he also Lodg'd the Capuchins The Ambassador also sent to Compliment the Kan by my interpreter and when the hour was come that we were to set forward he gave order to six of the Captains of his Cavalry to accompany the Ambassador The House where the Governour liv'd in was one of the most beautiful in Persia. And as for the Governour himself we found him in a Gallery that look'd upon the Garden the Floor being all spread over with a Tapestry of Gold and Silk with large Cushions of Cloth of Gold all along the Wall After some Questions and discourse concerning the Affairs of Europe they serv'd in Supper which consisted of several Dishes but no Wine was to be had our drink being only Sherbet and the juice of Granates with Sugar for those that desir'd it We were a long time at Supper for 't is the custom of Persia that when one man rises another takes his place and falls too in so much that the Master of the Feast must have the Patience to stay 'till several have tak'n their turns and when every one has done the Cloth is tak'n away without any more to do Here the Ambassador committed an absurdity for there are no Silver or Gold Spoons in Persia but only long Wooden Ladles that reach a great way Now the Ambassador reaching his Ladle to a Purslane-Dish full of Pottage that was scalding hot clap'd it presently into his mouth but finding it so hot that he could not endure it after several scurvy faces he threw it out of his mouth again into his hand in the presence of all the Company After we had stay'd five days at Sneirne the Caravan-Bashi signifi'd his desire to pursue his Journey Thereupon the Ambassador took his leave of the Governour presenting him with a Watch and a pair of Pistols who in retaliation presented the Ambassador with a stately Horse and a Colt of two years old The next day we dislodg'd and pursu'd our Road to Amadan which is not above three days Journey from Sneirne Amadan is one of the largest and most considerable Cities of Persia seated at the foot of a Mountain where do arise an infinite company of Springs that water all the Country The Land about it abounds in Corn and Rice wherewith it furnishes the greatest part of the neighbouring Provinces Which is the reason that some of the Persian States-men hold it very inconvenient for the King of Persia to keep Bagdat as well by reason of the vastness of the Charge as also for that it draws from Amadan that which should supply other Provinces On the other side it is easie for the Grand Signor to hold it by reason of the neighbourhood of Mesopotamia Assyria and the Arabs Enemies to the Persians by which means Provisions are very cheap which the people would not know where to put off if the King of Persia were Lord of Bagdat We staid at Amadan about ten days by reason of the Rains during which time the Caravans cannot travel While we tarry'd there we were visited by several Babylonian Christians who were glad to see that we had escap'd the Clutches of the Basha of Bagdat who had giv'n order to the Basha of Karkou and the Bey of Sharassou that commands the Frontiers of Turkie to seize us and carry us back to Bagdat For which we might have thank'd the Ambassador and a malicious Rabbi that came along with us in the Caravan from Aleppo who finding the Feast of the Tabernacles to be at hand and that we had a great way to Ispahan left us at Niniveh to keep the Festival with the Jews of Babylon Where that he might insinuate himself into the Basha's favour he inform'd him that there was a Fringuiz in the Caravan whom he look'd upon as a Spy and that he was an Envoy into Persia from the Commonwealth of Venice for he carry'd no Merchandize but had three Chests full of rich Habits and several other things which he took for Presens to the Persian King For out of vanity or folly the Venetian had several times open'd his Chest and expos'd his Gallantry to view And yet he was so clutch-fisted and niggardly in every thing that when there was any occasion to reward the Kan's Servant or any of the Country-men that brought us the Dainties of the place it came all out of my Pocket So that I left him to my Interpreter and the two Capuchins and with three Servants and a Guide after I had staid at Amadan three days I took Horse for Ispahan When I came there the Nazar or Master of the King's Houshold hearing I had left an Ambassador behind me with the Caravan enquir'd of me what manner of Person he was but I pretended I had had little converse with him unwilling to discover his mean Spirit The Evening before his Arrival the Nazar sent to give the Fringuiz notice in the King's Name that they should be ready to go meet the Ambassador the next day which we did and brought him into the City and through Ali's Gate that joyns to the King's Palace Now 't is the custom for all Ambassadors to salute that Gate by reason of a white Marble Stone made like an Asses back and which serves for a Step being as they report brought anciently out of Arabia where Ali liv'd So soon as you have strid over that Stone without touching it which were a great crime you enter into a kind of a Gallery where there are Rooms on each side which serves for a Sanctuary for Criminals which the King himself cannot fetch out of that place That day that the new King receives his Ensigns of Royalty he goes to stride over that Stone and if by negligence he should chance to touch it there are four Guards at the Gate that would make a shew of thrusting him back again But now the Master of the Ceremonies being ready to conduct the Ambassador to the Apartment alotted him as an Ambassador that came from three great Monarchs and a potent Commonwealth he desir'd to lodge at the House of one Pietro Pentalet descended from Venetian Parents whereupon the Master of the Ceremonies conducted him thither and caus'd his Dinner to be brought him While we were eating I counted thirteen Languages spoken at the Table Latin French High-Dutch English Low-Dutch Italian Portuguez Persian Turkish Arabic Indian Syriac and Malaye which is the Language of the Learned that is spoken from the River Indus to China and
Helmet upon his head and carries the Standard upon his shoulders and by him marches the Grand-Master's Page who carries a Sword in one hand and a Dagger in the other both very richly Embellish'd and giv'n to the Order by CHARLES the fifth The Page that carry'd the Sword and Dagger was the youngest Nephew of Pope Innocent the tenth The Souldiers and Citizens marching before to the Church door make a Lane for the Knight and the Page to pass on to the Altar where the Knight makes three bows and having done as much to the Grand-Master places himself on the right hand of the Grand-Masters Chair and the Page on the left Then the Mass and the Musick begins and while the Gospel is reading the Grand-Master takes the Sword and the Dagger out of the Page's hand and holds them with the points upward all the remaining part of the Mass. During the Elevation of the Host the Knights repeats the same Ceremony as at the beginning and then the Bells ring the great Guns go off and the Souldiers give three Vollies Mass being ended the Grand-Master retires accompany'd as before only that he is then attended by all the Ecclesiastical persons of the City and coming out of the Church he proceeds with all the Infantry marching before him toward our Lady 's of Victory where they all go in procession While they make a stand in that place the Souldiers give another Volley which is answer'd by all the Canons in the Town as also from the Ships and Galleys After that they return to St. John's and the Infantry Guard the Standard back to the Inn while the Grand-Master goes to his Palace The ninth we view'd the Fortifications which are stor'd with very fair pieces of Canon The tenth we saw the Pages perform their Exercises before the Grand-master which are generally vaulting and handling their Arms both Musquet and Pike The elev'nth we view'd the Arsenal where I was assur'd that there were Arms for twenty thousand men being in good order and rarely well look'd after The next day we visited the Infirmery where the sick are serv'd in Plate as well the poor as rich The twentieth we set Sail having the Wind at West-South-West and a fresh gale so that upon the twenty-third we discover'd the Coast of the Morea to which we approach'd so near as to descry Navarin In the Evening we saw the City of Coron where there is a great Trade for Sallet-Oyl From thence it was that the Great Turk Embarqu'd for Candy in the year 1645. The twenty-fourth the Wind was at East-North-East In the Morning we discover'd the Cape of Matapan which is the most Southern Point of Land in Europe lying in the Morea and at Noon the Iland of Cherigo The twenty-fifth we drew near Cyprus and descry'd a Mountain in that Iland call'd Canteliere with some other Promontories toward the South From the twenty-seventh day 'till we came to Alexandretta we perceiv'd the Sea to be all over cover'd with Pumice-stones which happ'nd from an Earthquake that had for some time before swallow'd up the Iland of Santorini Some think that it proceeded from the abundance of Sulphur of which that Country is full which took Fire and was the death of above 750 of the Ilanders that were partly buried in the Ruines and partly dy'd out of fear They that remain'd alive became black like Charcoal and the Vapours that ascended out of the Abyss fully'd all the Silver as far as Constantinople the noise of the Earthquake being heard as far as Smyrna The twenty-ninth by break of day we discover'd the Iland of Cyprus The first of October by eight in the Morning we came to an Anchor before Salines which is one of the Ports of Cyprus where our Consuls live Here I ask'd several of the Christians of the Country how they did to live and pay their Carage Who told me that it was with a great deal of difficulty in regard the Iland was very bare of Money which was the reason that many Christians turn'd Mahometans to avoid paying their Carage which is a Tribute that the Grand Signor Iayes upon all Christians throughout his Dominions He exacts from the poorest six Piasters a Head but there are some that pay a hundred or a hundred and fifty and this Tribute is due so soon as ever they come to be eighteen years of age The Iland of Cyprus is one of the most considerable in the Mediterranean Sea more to the East than any of the rest bearing the title of a Kingdom as being 500 Miles in circuit It is not all of the same bredth being of a triangular form the sides whereof are very unequal To it there belong several Capes or Promontories the principal whereof are St. Epiphanio toward the West Cape de Gate toward the South Cape Diegrega toward the North-East Cape Cormachiti toward the North and Cape St. Andrew upon the most Eastern Point of the Iland The principal Roads are that of Salines or Larneca that of Paphos and that of Cerines or Cerigni The Haven of Famagosta signifies nothing as to great Ships there being none but small Vessels that can ride there The Venetians had formerly made a small Mole there to harbour their Gallies but it is now quite ruin'd The Road of Cerines is that where the Barks and Galliots lye that come from Caramania and Payasses and where the Basha's land that are sent as Governours of the Iland from Constantinople who reside generally at Nicosia That City is almost in the middle of the Iland and was formerly a very large one as appears by the compass of the ancient Walls The new Walls are well terrass'd within-side and in a good posture of defence There are three Gates belong to the City that of Famagosta that of Paphos and that of Cerines The City it self is no uncomely place the Venetians having adorn'd it with many fair Palaces which the Turks demolish every day out of hopes to find hidd'n Treasure therein and sell the Stones to build new Houses The Cathedral that goes by the name of Santa Sophia is an ample and fair Structure of which the Turks have now made a Mosquee together with one more which was formerly a Monastery belonging to the Austin-Fryars The Greeks have there four Churches and the Franks two that is to say the French Missionary Capuchins and the Italian Missionary Soccolans The first have a Church dedicated to St. James the others another which is call'd Holy Rood Church The Armenians also have another belonging to them which is a very neat Building which was formerly a Monastery of the Carthusians There it is that there is a Tomb adorn'd with several Sculptures of Religious Nunns especially an Abbess with a Cross in her Hand the Writing about the Stone being in French Characters The City is seated in a temperate Air and a fertil Soil abounding with Water It extends more in length than bredth having been anciently nine Miles in compass but
the Venetians to make it stronger reduc'd it to the circuit of three The Work of the Fortification was so neat and such a proportion observ'd in all things that the most famous Engineers esteem'd it one of the most stately Fortresses in the World when Sclim the Second sent an Army against it under the Command of Mustapha his Grand Vizier Famagosta is a Sea-Town upon the East-side of the Iland and the chief Bulwark of it It is kept in good repair the Castle within being in form of a Cittadel The Turks have converted into Mosquees the Churches of the Christians who are not suffer'd to dwell in the City They have only the liberty to come thither in the day and to open Shops which they shut up again at night and then go home to their Houses in the neighbouring Villages The City is govern'd by a Bey who has no dependance upon the Governour of the Iland who is oblig'd to maintain a Galley for the guard of the Coast. Cerines is another little City but without any defence the Walls thereof being all tumbl'd to ruine Only there is a Fortress toward the Sea well built with a Garrison in it There is also a handsom Monastery of Religious Greeks built somewhat after the French manner wherein there are some of the Cells which stand so upon the Sea that they can fish out of the Windows The Fields about it bear Cotton which is the chief Revenue of the Monastery There is only the Fort of Cerines upon the North where the Iland does not lye so open as toward the South and East which besides by that of Famagosta are guarded by the Forts of Salines Limisso and Paphos The Inhabitants of the Iland are for the most part Greeks especially in the Villages They are clad after the Italian manner both Men and Women the Men wearing Hats like the Franks and retaining their ancient Customs as much as is possible for them to do The Trade of the Iland lyes in Cotton-wool which is the best in all the East and some Silk which is neither good nor very plentiful However the Iland is fertil enough did it not want Inhabitants enow to till it As for Bread Wine Cheese and Milk they are all very cheap and there is Oyl enough to serve the Iland But for the Wine it is transported out of the Iland to all the places of Trade not far distant The best grows at the foot of Olympus and is a delicious sort of Drink The Country between Nicosia and Famagosta produces Cotton of which there grows also some between Paphos and Limisso The chief place where the Silk is made is call'd Cytherea a large Town water'd with a fair River that runs from the Mountain of Venus This River turns several Mills which are the chief Revenue of the Iland There is Silk also made between Paphos and Limisso upon the Road between which two places you meet with a Town call'd Piscopi where are to be seen several Aquaeducts that carry'd the Water into the Rooms and Magazines where the people formerly made Sugar But since the Iland was tak'n from the Venetians one of the Basha's that was sent as Governour burnt up all the Sugar Canes in the Country Toward the Sea-shoar near Limisso is to be seen one of the fairest Gardens of Cyprus which they call Shiti to which there belongs a magnificent House and a Grove of Orange-Trees It was built by a rich Venetian who had a good Estate in Lands thereabouts In Cyprus the people take a vast number of Birds as big as a Lark especially near the Mountain of the Holy Cross. In the Months of September and October the Country-people of the adjacent Villages make themselves little Hutts in the Fields where usually those Birds are wont to light and feed upon the Seed of an Herb that grows there which when it is dry the people daub over with Lime-twigs But this they never do but when the North-West Wind blows and that the weather be very cold for with a Southerly Wind they never take any These Birds are accounted great Dainties by the Venetians who make no great Feasts in Carnival-time wherein they do not set these Birds upon the Table pil'd up in Dishes like a Pyramid They buy them up every year being first prepar'd fit for exportation by the people who having pull'd off their Feathers parboyl them and pickle them up in Barrels with Vinegar and Salt When they are to be eat'n they are set upon a Chafing-dish between two Dishes Sometimes there are above a thousand Barrels exported out of the Iland and indeed were it not for this Trade the poor people would see but very little Money Upon the Mountain of the Holy Cross stands a Church of the same name upon which the report of the Country goes that St. Helena returning from Jerusalem left a piece of our Saviour's Cross with the Christians of Cyprus who built a Church there by means of the Liberality of the same Princess Afterwards those of the Town of Leucara took it from hence and carry'd it to their Church where I saw it The piece is as big as the Palm of a Man's Hand set in a great Cross of Latten emboss'd with several Figures In the Kingdom of Cyprus there is an Archbishop and three Suffragans The Arch-bishop takes upon him the Title of Nicosia to which Famagosta belongs with all the Country between Nicosia and Famagosta with the Territories of Nicosia and all the Villages round He has a House about a League from Nicosia where the chiefest of his Revenue lies Some years since he caus'd the high Altar of the Church to be painted and guilded being a neat piece of Workmanship Thus the Arch-bishop has under his Jurisdiction all the middle part of the Island and some part toward the East The Bishops are the Bishops of Paphos Larneca and Cerines The Greeks are very much addicted to the observation of their ancient Customs and Ceremonies and generally their Masses are very long Upon Sundays and Holy-days they rise between one and two of the Clock in the Morning to Sing Mattins To which purpose there is a Clerk that goes from door to door and knocks with a Hammer to wake the people and then cries out with a loud voice Christians go the Church The men and old women fail not to go as being more zealous but the maids and young women never go out of doors in the night for fear of the Turks There are seven or eight Villages the Inhabitants whereof are Maronites who came from Mount Libanus and speak Arabic at home but Greek among the Islanders They follow the Romish Religion and have their Churches peculiar to themselves The Island of Cyprus is no wholesom Air being subject to the spoyl of a sort of Locusts that some Summers destroy all their Fruit aud Corn. During the heats they hover in the Air which they will dark'n with their number like a thick Cloud but
Husband is oblig'd to lye with his lawful Wife upon Thursday-night or Fryday-night upon Wednesday-morning the Women go to the â—â—ths where they perfume their Heads and Bodies with a sweet Water They may go abroad sometimes at other seasons when their Husbands give them leave to visit their Kindred but then they are to be wrapt up from Head to Foot that it is impossible for their Husbands themselves to know them if they meet 'em i' the Streets By the way take notice that the Persian Women unless they be such as are very poor would rather stay within all the days of their Lives than go abroad without a Horse And it is a certain sign to know a Curtisan from an honest Woman for that the Curtisans put their Feet in the Stirup and the honest Women only in the Stirup-leathers The Women of Bagdat are very richly habited after their fashions but they are not contented to wear their Jewels about their Necks and Wrists for they hang them like Bracelets about their Faces and will bore holes in their Ears to put in a Ring The Arabian Women only bore the separation between the two Nostrils where they wear hollow Rings as well to spare cost as for lightness for some are so big that you may almost thrust your Fist through them Beyond all this the more to beautifie themselves they make a round Ring about their Eyes with a certain sort of Blacking And as well Men as Women in the Desert put the same near their Eyes to preserve them as they say from the heat of the Sun Of Christians there are three sorts Nestorians who have a Church Armenians and Jacobites who have none but go to the Capuchins who administer the Sacraments to them The Christians go in Devotion to a Chappel about a short quarter of a League from the City dedicated to a Saint whom they call Keder-Elias paying a small Fee for admission to the Turks who keep the Keys Two days journey from the City stands another ruin'd Church in a pitiful Village where they say that St. Simon and St. Jude were both Martyr'd and Buried If a Christian dyes all the rest come to his Burial and returning home find a Supper prepar'd to welcom them the next day they return to the Grave and pray for the deceas'd and the third day there is a Dinner for all comers and goers Sometimes there will be a hundred and fifty persons at a Burial They repeat the same Ceremonies for the seventh fifteenth thirtieth and fortieth days afterwards having a great veneration for the Dead for whom they pray too often This custom of Feasting is very inconvenient for the Poor for they being desirous to imitate the Rich run themselves sometimes so far in Debt that they are forc'd to sell their Children to the Turks to discharge themselves There are several Jews also in Bagdat but more that come every year in Devotion to visit the Sepulcher of the Prophet Ezekiel which is a day and a halfs journey from the City In short since the taking of Bagdat by Sultan Amurat the number of Inhabitants cannot be less than fifteen thousand Souls which shews that the City is not peopl'd according to its bigness About a day and a halfs journey from the Point of Mesopotamia at distance almost equal between Tigris and Euphrates there appears a vast Heap of Earth which the people call to this day Nemrod It stands in the midst of a wide Plain and may be discover'd a great way off The vulgar sort believe it to be the Remains of the Tower of Babel but there is more probability of the Arabians Opinion who call it Agartouf and believe it to have been built by an Arabian Prince who always kept a Beacon at the top to assemble his Subjects together in time of War This Heap of Earth was about three hundred Paces in circuit but it is not easie to guess at the ancient height the rest being fal'n to ruine but only eighteen or twenty Fathom It is built of Brick dry'd in the Sun every Brick being ten Inches square and three thick The Building is thus rais'd Upon every row of Canes or Reeds bruis'd to pieces and mix'd with Wheat-straw and spred an Inch and a half thick lye seven orders of these Bricks with a little Straw between each then another Bed of Reeds and six rows of Bricks then a third with five rows decreasing in that manner 'till you come to the top The form of it seems to have been rather square than round and in the highest part of that which remains there appears a Hole like a Window if it were not rather an Out-let for Water or a Hole for the Scaffolding In short according to the Description of Moses there is no likelihood that this should be the Remains of the ancient Tower of Babel The Plane of the City of Bagdat which is to be compass'd as well by Land as by Water in two Hours A. The Ground-Plot B. The Fortress C. The Gate call'd Maazan-capl D. The New Bulwark E. The Port where the Grand Signor erected his first Batt'ry Anno 1638. F. The Old Bulwark G. The Gate in the Wall H. The Old Bulwark I. The Place where Amurat rais'd his second Batt'ry when he made the Breach and took the City K. The Gate in the Wall L. The Old Bulwark M. The Old Bulwark N. Cara capi or the Black Gate O. The Old Bulwark P. Sou-capi or the Water-Gate CHAP. VIII A Continuation of the Road from Bagdat to Balsara and of the Religion of the Christians of St. John THE fifteenth of March we hir'd a Bark from Bagdat to Balsara And we observ'd that a little beyond Bagdat the River Tigris divides it self into two Arms the one which runs through the ancient Chaldea the other keeps its course toward the Point of Mesopotamia these two Arms making a large Iland cross'd by several small Channels When we came to the place where Tigris divides it self we beheld as it were the compass of a City that might have formerly been a large League in circuit There are some of the Walls yet standing upon which six Coaches may go a-brest They are made of burnt Brick every Brick being ten Foot square and three thick The Chronicles of the Country say that these were the Ruines of the ancient Babylon We follow'd that Arm of Tigris that runs along the Coast of Chaldea for fear of falling into the hands of the Arabs who were then at War with the Basha of Babylon denying to pay the ordinary Tribute to the Grand Signor We were ten days upon the Water in our passage from Bagdat to Balsara and lay every night upon the Water dressing our Victuals in the Bark For when we came to any Villages we sent our Servants a-shoar to buy Provisions which we had very cheap Now the Towns we met with upon the Shoar were these Amurat where there stood a Fort of Brick bak'd in the Sun Mansoury a
Great Sha-Abas having taken Ormus sent a powerful Army under the Command of Iman-Kouli-Kan Governour of Shiras to take in Balsara Whereupon the Prince finding himself too weak to resist so great a Pow'r made an agreement with the Desert Arabians to break down the Dam that stops the Sea Which being perform'd in came the Sea tumbling fifteen Leagues to Balsara and four Leagues beyond it which constrain'd the Persians surrounded with water and hearing at the same time of the death of Sha-Abas to raise their Siege Since that inundation several Lands and Gardens have been utterly barren or have born very little by reason of the Salt which the Sea has left behind The Prince of Balsara has enter'd into Leagues with several strange Nations so that whencesoever you come you may be welcom There is so much liberty and so good order in the City that you may walk all night long in the Streets without molestation The Hollanders bring Spices thither every year The English carry Pepper and some few Cloves but the Portugals have no Trade at all thither The Indians bring Calicuts Indigo and all sorts of Merchandize In short there are Merchants of all Country's from Constantinople Smyrna Aleppo Damascus Cairo and other parts of Turkie to buy such Merchandizes as come from the Indies with which they lade the young Camels which they buy in that place for thither the Arabians bring them to put them to sale They that come from Diarbequir Moussul Bagdat Mesopotamia and Assyria send their Merchandizes up the Tigris by Water but with great trouble and expence In regard the Boats are to be tow'd by men that cannot go above two Leagues and a half in a day and against the Wind they cannot stir which makes them oft-times between Balsara and Bagdat to be above sixty days nay there have been some that have been three months upon the Water The Customs of Balsara amount to five in the hundred but generally you have some favour shew'd you either by the Customer or the Prince himself that the Merchant does not really pay above four in the hundred The Prince of Balsara is so good a Husband that he lays up three millions of Liuers in a year His chiefest Revenue is in four things Money Horses Camels and Date-trees but in the last consists his chiefest wealth For all the Country from the meeting of the two Rivers to the Sea for the space of thirty Leagues together is all cover'd with these Trees nor does any one dare to touch a Date 'till he has paid for every Tree three fourths of a Larin or nine Sous French The profit which the Prince makes upon money proceeds from this that the Merchants that come from abroad are oblig'd to carry their Reals to his Mint where they are Coyn'd and converted into Larins which is worth to him eight in the hundred As for his Horses there is no place in the world where there are more fit for travel or handsomer shap'd for there are some that will travel thirty hours together and never draw bit especially the Mares But to return to the Palm-trees it is worth observation that there is more Art to bring up those Trees than any other The Natives dig a hole in the ground wherein they heap a great quantity of Date-nuts in a Pyramidical form the top whereof ends in one single Nut which being cover'd with Earth produces the Palm-tree Most of the people of the Country do say that in regard there is among the Palm-trees the distinction of Male and Female that therefore they must be planted one by another for that otherwise the Female Tree will bear no Fruit. But others affirm that nicety to be unnecessary and that it susfices when the Male is in Blossom to take a Flower from the Male and put it into the Heart of the Female a little above the Stem for unless they should do so all the Fruit would fall off before it came to maturity There is at Balsara a Cady that administers Justice and who is establish'd by the authority of the Prince that commands there In the City are also three sorts of Christians Jacobites Nestorians and Christians of St. John There is also a House of Italian Carmelites and there was a House of Portugal Austin-Friars but they have forsak'n the Town ever since their Country-men quitted the Trade The Christians of St. John are very numerous at Balsara and the Villages thereabouts who anciently liv'd by the River of Jordan where St. John Baptiz'd and from whom they took their Name But since the time that Mahomet conquer'd Palestine though Mahomet formerly gave them his Hand and his Letters of Priviledge that they should not be molested nevertheless they that succeeded the false Prophet resolv'd to extirpate them all to which purpose they ruin'd their Churches burnt their Books and exercis'd all manner of cruelties upon their Persons which oblig'd them to retire into Mesopotamia and Chaldea and for some time they were under the Patriarch of Babylon from whom they separated about a hundred and sixty years ago Then they remov'd into Persia and Arabia and the Towns round about Balsara as Souter Despoul Rumez Bitoum Mono Endecan Calufabat Aveza Dega Dorech Masquel Gumar Carianous Balsara Onezer Zech Loza Nor do they inhabit City or Village by which there does not run a River And many of their Bishops have assur'd me that the Christians in all the foregoing places make above five and twenty thousand Families There are some among them who are Merchants but the most part of them are Trades-men especially Goldsmiths Joyners and Lock-smiths Their Creed is full of fables and foul errours The Persians and Arabians call them Sabbi a People that have forsak'n their own Religion to take up a new one In their own Language they call themselves Mendai Jahia or Disciples of St. John from whom as they ascertain us they have receiv'd their Faith their Books and their Traditions Every year they celebrate a Feast for about five days during which time they go in Troops to their Bishops who Baptize them according to the Baptism of St. John They never Baptize but in Rivers and only upon Sundays But before they go to the River they carry the Infant to Church where there is a Bishop who reads certain Prayers over the Head of the Child from thence they carry the Child to the River with a Train of Men and Women who together with the Bishop go up to the knees in Water Then the Bishop reads again certain Prayers out of a Book which he holds in his Hand which done he sprinkles the Infant three times saying Beesmebrad er-Rabi Kaddemin Akreri Menhal el gennet Alli Koulli Kralek or In the Name of the Lord first and last of the World and of Paradise the high Creator of all things After that the Bishop reads something again in his Book while the God-father plunges the Child all over in the Water after which they go all
three or four Months when that was over he return'd to Damas. He usually had about thirty Horse with him with which he never made it above eighteen or twenty days taking the shortest cut directly through the Desert where the Arabs are commanded to bring him Victuals upon the Road. And he is willing at any time when he has this opportunity to conduct the Franks that desire it that way in regard they are never ungrateful to him for it These two Franks therefore having desir'd that they might be taken into his Company the Topigi-Bashi readily consented provided they could stay 'till he went which would not be 'till two or three Months with which answer they were well satisfi'd But the two Franks had not stay'd at Damas above seven or eight days but they fell acquainted with a Spahi a Renegado of Marseilles who proffer'd to carry them through the Road of Mesopotamia so that they should be at Ispahan before the Topigi-Bashi set out from Damas. Thereupon they privately departed out of Damas without acquainting the Topigi-Bashi who understanding they were gone after the courtesie he had offer'd them was so enrag'd at their uncivillity that he sent two of his Arabian Servants directly through the Wilderness to the Basha of Bagdat to give him advice of two Franks that were to pass that way who were most certainly Spies describing them withall from head to foot In the mean while the two Franks being arriv'd at Ourfa the Spahi as he had contriv'd his own design at Damas goes to the Basha of Ourfa and informs him that he had conducted thither two Franks who could be no other than Spies Thereupon the Basha seiz'd upon them and all their Goods among the rest he laid his paws upon seven hundred Piasters of which the Spahi no doubt had his share And this may serve for instruction to Travellers to have a care how and with whom they Travel in Turkie While the two French men were in hold at Ourfa by one sort of Treachery the Norman Gentleman and his Companion arriv'd at Bagdat But they had no sooner set their feet upon the shore when the Basha verily believing them to be the persons of whom the Topigi-Bashi had giv'n him notice caus'd them to be brought before him and seiz'd upon their Goods and Letters of which they had several for the Consul of Aleppo and other rich Merchants for Persia. The Basha sent for the Capuchins to read those Letters but not believing them he sent for a Sicilian Physitian which he had in his Service and his Treasurer who had been a Slave tak'n in Candy But neither Physitian Treasurer nor Capuchins would interpret any thing in prejudice of the French men yet all that could not preserve them from being shut up in a Stable full of dung and from being threaten'd to be Shot out of a Cannon's mouth if they would not confess the truth Thereupon the Capuchins and the Cadi beg'd him to suspend his Sentence 'till the Arrival of the chief of the Cannoniers to which he readily consented When the Topigi-Bashi came the Basha commanded the Prisoners to be brought before him But when the Topigi-Bashi deny'd them to be the persons the Basha grew into such a rage that he no less reproach'd the Topigi-Bashi for Treachery than he had accus'd the others Which so incens'd the Topigi-Bashi on the other side that he never left 'till he had obtain'd the release of the two French men yet not so but that the Basha would have his due so that Reville was forc'd to leave some of his Ducats behind which the Jew should have had But now to return to Smyrna where I expected the Caravan for some time in order to my Journey into Persia. Every thing being provided we set forward in the Road for Tauris which I have at large describ'd nor was there any thing worthy observation all the way I will only take notice that when we departed from Tocat in regard the heat was so extream we left the common Road toward the North and took the way through the Mountains where there is always a fresh Breeze and store of shady Lanes In many of which high Mountains we met with Snow and abundance of excellent Sorrel and upon the tops of some of those Mountains we met with several sorts of shells as it had been upon the Sea shore which is very extraordinary From Erzerom we went to Cars from Cars we came to Erivan The Kan was not there then being retir'd during the heat into the Mountains a days Journey from the City His Lieutenant telling me that I could not well pass farther without paying my duty to the Kan I follow'd his advice and found him in his Tent in a fair Dale where there was a great quantity of Snow and where when it began to melt appear'd several beautiful Flowers so that Summer and Winter seem'd to lodge both in the same place The Kan entertain'd both me and all my Company most nobly for ten days I drove also a small Trade with him For I durst not shew him the rarities I had being design'd for the King For as in India so in Persia neither will the King look upon any thing which his Subjects have seen before nor will the Subject buy any thing which the King has seen it being an affront to present any thing to the King which he had formerly view'd and the Subject buys nothing rare but what he intends to present Being past Erivan you may leave your Caravan when you please by reason of the security of the Roads in Persia. And indeed I intended to have visited the Kan of Gengéa but finding the Road so full of Rocks and Precipices where a man was continually in danger of breaking his Neck I turn'd my Horses head and met the Caravan at Nacksivan in the Road to Tauris From Tauris to Ispahan I met with nothing worthy observation When I came to the Court I was well receiv'd by the King and I sold him as many Jewels and other Goods of great value as came to sixty-two thousand Crowns But of this more in another place THE THIRD BOOK OF THE PERSIAN TRAVELS OF MONSIEUR TAVERNIER CONTAINING The AUTHOR's Sixth and Last VOYAGE And the ROADS Through TURKY into PERSIA through the Northern PROVINCES of EUROPE With a Description of several Countries lying upon the Black and Caspian SEAS CHAP. I. Of the Authors sixth and last Voyage from his setting out of Paris to his Landing at Smyrna I Set out of Paris in the year 1663. for Lyons with six several Servants of several professions which I thought most proper for my business I carry'd with me the value of about four hundred thousand Livers part in Jewels part in Goldsmiths work and other curiosities which I design'd for the King of Persia and the Great Mogul Being at Lyons I bought a Steel Mirrour round and hollow about two foot and a half in Diameter would immediately melt a Half-Crown by
and Rains have swell'd it for then you must go a quarter of a League higher and cross it over a great Stone-Bridge Half a League on the other side of Tigris stands a Village with an Inn which is the Rendevous of the whole Caravan and where they that first come have time enough to provide themselves for a Journey of nine or ten days as far as Betlis For though you may find Towns and Inns thick enough upon the Road yet there is no good Bread to be met with When the Caravan proceeds the first days journey is fourteen hours on Horse-back and you come to lye at Shaye-batman where you must pay a Piaster for every Horse-load From Chaye-batman you come to Chikaran From Chikaran to Azou which you leave half a League from the great Road where the Toll-gatherers take their Toll which is four Piasters upon every Horse-load From Azou you come to Ziarat from Ziarat to Zerque where you pay a Duty of two Piasters for every Horse-load From Zerche to Cochakan From Cochakan to Carakan a bad Inn where you enter among the Mountains that being full of Torrents reach as far as Betlis From Carakan to Betlis a City belonging to a Bey or Prince of the Country the most potent and most considerable of all the rest for he neither acknowledges the Grand Signor nor the Persian whereas all the other Beys are Tributary either to the one or the other And it is the Interest of those two Potentates to correspond with him for it 's an easie thing for him to stop up the passage from Aleppo to Tauris or from Tauris to Aleppo the Streights of the Mountains being so narrow that ten Men may defend them against a thousand Coming near Betlis you must travel a whole day among high steep Mountains that reach two Miles beyond with Torrents on each side the way being cut out of the Rock on each side where there is but just room for a Camel to pass The City stands between two high Mountains equally distant one from the other and about the height of Montmartre It is built like a Sugar-loaf the ascent being so steep on every side that there is no getting to the top but by wheeling and winding about the Mountain The top of all is a Platform where stands a Castle well built at the Gate whereof is a Draw-Bridge Then you pass through two great Courts and then into a third opposite to the Bey's Apartment It is very troublesom to get up to the top of the Castle and a Man must be very well Hors'd that does it There is no other person but the Bey and his Esquire who is permitted to ride up on Horse-back There is one Inn within the City and another as it were without in which the Merchants rather choose to lye than in the other by reason that it is ready to be overflown when the Torrents swell that run through every Street The Bey beside the strength of his Passes is able to bring above five and twenty thousand Horse into the Field and a very considerable Body of Foot compos'd of the Shepherds of the Country who are to be ready at a Call I went to wait upon the Bey himself and made him a Present of two pieces of Satin the one streakt with Silver and the other with Gold two white Bonnets such as the Turks wear very fine and adorn'd with Silver at the top together with a sute of Handkerchiffs streak'd with Red and Silver While I staid with the Bey who sent for Coffee for me according to the custom a Courier came to him from the Basha of Aleppo to desire him that he would deliver up into his hands a French Chirurgeon that was his Slave having been tak'n in Candia complaining withal that he had run away from him with the value of three thousand Crowns The Bey who understood what belong'd to a Sanctuary and was resolv'd to protect the French-man school'd the Messenger so severely that he threaten'd to put him to death if he did not get him gone presently charging him to tell his Master withal that he would complain to the Grand Signor of his insolence and that if he were strangl'd he might thank himself And indeed it behov'd the Great Turk to keep fair correspondence with him in regard that if the Persians should at any time besiege Van the Grand Signor must march through the Bey's Country to relieve it who has Forces enow to oppose him if he should be his Enemy But to travel through the Country of the Curds is very pleasant for if on the one side the ways are bad and difficult to be travel'd in other places you have a prospect of several sorts of Trees as Oaks and Walnuts and not a Tree which is not embrac'd with a wild Vine Below the Mountains in the Level grows the best Wheat and Barley in all the Country From Betlis where you pay five Piasters for every Horse-load to Taduan where you pay two Taduan is a great Town within a Cannon-shot of the Lake of Van in such a part where Nature has made a Hav'n shelter'd from all the Winds being clos'd on all sides with high Mountains the entry into which though it seem narrow is very free It is able to contain twenty or thirty great Barks and when it is fair Weather and that the Wind serves the Merchants generally Ship off their Goods from thence to Van from whence it is but four and twenty hours sail and a very good passage whereas by Land from Taduan to Van it is eight days journey on Horse-back Returning back you may also take Water at Van for Taduan From Taduan to Karmoushé From Karmoushé to Kellat From Kellat to Algiaoux a small City where you pay one Piaster for every Load From Agiaoux to Spanktiere From Spanktiere to Soüer From Soüer to Argiche From Argiche to Quiarakierpou From Quiarakierpou to Perkeri From Perkeri to Zuarzazin From Zuarzazin to Souserat From Souserat to Devan where two Piasters are gather'd for every Horse-load or else you must pay at Van. From Devan to Van where there is a Duty of two Tomans and four Abassis to be paid for every Horse-load For though Van be in the Territories of the Grand Signor yet the Persian Money is better lik'd than his own Coyn. Van is a great City upon the side of a wide Lake of the same name There is a good Fortress belongs to it that is seated upon the top of a high Mountain which stands by it self There is but one sort of Fish in the Lake a little bigger than a Pilchard of which they take great store in the Month of April For about a League from the Lake there is a great River that is call'd Bendmahi which descending from the Mountains of Armenia empties it self into the Lake Now in March when the Snow melts and swells the River vast numbers of these Fish come down the River into the Lake which the Fisher-men
observing so stop up the Mouth of the River that the Fish cannot go back for else they would not stay above forty days at which time they catch 'em up in wide-mouth'd Baskets at the Mouth of the River thinking to return it being lawful for any man to fish The people drive a great Trade in these Fish transporting them into Persia and Armenia for the Persians and Armenians both drinking Wine at the end of their Feasts they then bring this Dish to the Table for a relishing-bit The people of Van tell a Story how that there was a certain rich Merchant who farm'd the whole Fishery paying a good sum of Money for it to the Basha who thereupon strictly forbad any to fish but the Merchant whereas before it was free for any man But when the Fishing-season came and that the Merchant thought to have caught his Fish he met with nothing but Serpents So that after that time the Fishery was never more farm'd And there seems to be something in it for the Basha's who are a sort of people that will lose nothing they can get would be certain to farm the Fish again and again were there not some strange reason to hinder it There are two principal Islands in the Lake of Van the one call'd Adaketons where there stand two Covents of the Armenians Sourphague and Sourp-kara the other Island is call'd Limadasi and the name of the Covent is Limquiliasi all which Armenian Monks live very austerely From Van to Darcheck From Darcheck to Nuchar it stands in the Territories of a Bey of Curdistan being a paltry Village consisting of two or three little Houses These Bey's are a kind of particular Lords upon the Frontiers of both the Empires of Turkie and Persia who care for neither for they lye so secure among the Mountains that there is no assaulting them by force The Curds in general are a brutish sort of people who though they stile themselves Mahometans have very few Moullah's to instruct or teach them They have a particular veneration for black Grey-hounds so that if any person should be seen to kill one of them he would be knock'd o' the Head immediately Neither does any one dare to cut an Onion with a Knife in their presence but it must be squeez'd between two Stones by him that intends to make use of it so ridiculously superstitious they are The Bey to whom Nuchar belongs has his Toll-gatherers in that place who exact sixteen Abassi's for every Horse-load besides a Present which the Caravan-Bashi is oblig'd to present him which comes sometimes to seven or eight Tomans sometimes more for otherwise the Bey would be sure to watch the Caravan at some scurvy place and plunder it to some purpose As once it happen'd to a Caravan with which my Nephew went along in the year 1672 though he had the good luck to lose nothing more than one Camel laden with English Cloth and another with his Provision The Basha of Van and the Kan of Tauris took the Field with an intention to remedy these disorders especially the Basha of Van who perceiving that the Merchants would forsake that Road by reason of the Injuries they dayly receiv'd was resolv'd to make the Basha restore some part of his Goods which he had taken from the Merchants and for the future to leave two of his Subjects in Tauris and two in Van that should be responsible for what mischief should be done to the Caravan For otherwise the Merchants like this way best as being the nearest from Aleppo to Tauris and where they pay less Duties From Nuchar to Kuticlar is a long Journey through the Mountains by the side of several Torrents which are to be cross'd in several places This bad way brings Fifty i' the Hundred profit to the Bey of Nuchar for were the Caravan to travel through Plains or a level Country one Horse or Camel would carry as much as two or three and the Merchant would pay Custom for no more Here therefore the Caravan-Bashi and the Merchants must understand one another and agree as cunningly as they can togethor From Kuticlar to Kalvat From Kalvat to Kogia From Kogia to Darkavin From Darkavin to Soliman-Sera all which four places are very convenient Inns. From Soliman-Sera to Kours in that City resides a Bey who is tributary to the King of Persia. He lives in an ancient Castle about half a League off where the Caravan pays nine Abassi's for every Horse-load besides a Present But that Present consists only in Sugar-loaves Boxes of Treacle or Marmaled for he stands so much upon his Honour that he scorns to take Money The Wine of Kours is sweet and tart From Kours to Devogli From Devogli to Checheme About half way between these two places you cross a Plain which upon the South extends it self a League to the Mountains but upon the North side enlarges it self out of sight Upon the High-way on the left hand stands a Rock three hundred Paces in compass and about fourscore Foot high round about it were to be seen several Dens which most certainly had been the Habitations of those that fed their Cattel thereabouts Under the Rock which is hollow appears a Fountain of clear cold Water wherein there was great store of Fish thousands of which would come up to the top of the Water when a man threw any Bread into it The Fish had a great Head and a large Mustache I shot a Carbine into the River charg'd with Hail-shot upon which they all disappear'd but presently five or six return'd wounded to the top of the Water which we easily took The Armenians laught at me for shooting believing it had been impossible to catch them in that manner but they admir'd when they beheld them again turning up their bellies at the top of the Water The Turks and some of the Armenians would not eat of them believing them to be defil'd but the Armenians that had been in Europe laugh'd at their Superstition and fell to when they were drest From Checheme to Davashiler From Davashiler to Marand a City where you must pay sixteen Abassi's for a Camel's-load and eight for a Horses From Merand to Sefian From Sefian to Tauris These are the two biggest days journies throughout the Road. Returning out of Persia this way we could not get Bread for Money so that we were forc'd to give the Women some Trifles which they lov'd better Though the People are Mahometans yet they will not spare to drink lustily CHAP. IV. Another Road from Aleppo to Tauris through Geziré and other places FRom Aleppo to Bi r or Beri where you must cross Euphrates days 4 From Bi r to Ourfa days 2 From Ourfa to Diarbequir days 6 From Diarbequir to Geziré days 4 Geziré is a little City of Mesopotamia built upon an Island in the River Tigris which is there to be cross'd over a fair Bridge of Boats Here the Merchants meet to buy Gall-nuts and Tobacco The City is
under the Jurisdiction of a Bey Having past the Tigris all the Country between that and Tauris is almost equally divided between Hills and Plains the Hills are cover'd with Oaks that bear Galls and some Acoms withal The Plains are planted with Tobacco which is transported into Turkie for which they have a very great Trade One would think the Country were poor seeing nothing but Galls and Tobacco but there is no Country in the World where there is more Gold or Silver laid out and where they are more nice in taking Money that is in the least defective either in weight or goodness of Metal For Galls being a general Commodity for Dying and no where to be found so good as there bring a vast Trade to the Country wherein there are no Villages yet it is over-spread with Houses a Musquet-shot one from another and every Inhabitant has his quarter of his Vineyard by himself where they dry their Grapes for they make no Wine From Geziré to Amadié days 2 Amadié is a good City to which the Natives of a great part of Assyria bring their Tobacco and Gall-nuts It is seated upon a high Mountain to the top whereof you cannot get in less than an hour Toward the middle of the Rock three or four large Springs fall down from the Cliffs where the Inhabitants are forc'd to water their Cattel and fill their Borachio's every morning there being no Water in the City It is of an indifferent bigness and in the middle is a large Piazza where all sorts of Merchants keep their Shops It is under the Command of a Bey that is able to raise eight or ten thousand Horse and more Foot than any other of the Beys by reason his Country is so populous From Amadié to Giousmark days 4 From Giousmark to Alback days 3 From Alback to Salmastre days 3 Salmastre is a pleasant City upon the Frontiers of the Assyrians and Medes and the first on that side in the Territories of the Persian King The Caravan never lyes there because it would be above a League out of the way but when the Caravan is lodg'd two or three of the principal Merchants with the Caravan-Bashi according to custom go to wait upon the Kan The Kan is so glad that the Caravan takes that Road that he presents the Caravan-Bashi and those that go with him with the Garment of Honour or the Calaat the Bonnet and Girdle which is the greatest Honour that the King or his Governour can do to Strangers From Salamastre to Tauris days 4 In all thirty-two days journey this way from Aleppo to Tauris But though this be the shortest cut and where they pay least Customs yet the Merchants dare hardly venture for fear of being ill us'd by the Beys Teren whose Capital City the Persians call Cherijar is a Province between Mazandran and the ancient Region of the Persians known at this day by the name of Hierac to the South-East of Ispahan 'T is one of the most temperate Countries that has nothing in it of the contagious Air of Guilan where the King goes for the purity of the Air and for his sport of Hunting besides that it produceth excellent Fruits in many places The Capital City whereof which some call by the name of the Province is of a moderate compass but there is nothing worthy observation in it only a League from it are to be seen the Ruines of a great City which had been two Leagues in Circuit There were abundance of Towers all of burnt Brick and Pieces of the Wall standing There were also several Letters in the Stones which were cemented into the Walls but neither Turks Persians nor Arabians could understand them The City is round seated upon a high Hill at the top whereof stood the Ruines of a Castle which the Natives say was the Residence of the Kings of Persia. CHAP. V. The Road from Aleppo to Ispahan through the small Desert and through Kengavar I Will describe this Road as if I were to return from Ispahan to Aleppo This Road lies through Kengavar Bagdat and Anna where you enter into the Desert which I call The little Desert because you get over it in far less time than the great Desert that extends Southwards to Arabia the Happy and where you may often find Water all the whole Journey being not far distant from the River Euphrates A man that is well mounted may ride this way from Ispahan to Aleppo in three and thirty days as I have done and perhaps in less if the Arabian whom you take for your guide at Bagdat knows the shortest cut through the Wilderness The Horse Caravans travelling from Ispahan to Kengavar are fourteen or fifteen days upon the Road but being well mounted ten or twelve in a Company you may Ride it in five or six days The Country through which you travel is very fertile in Corn and Rice it produces also excellent Fruits and good Wine especially about Kengavar which is a large Town and well peopl'd From Kengavar to Bagdat I was ten days upon the Road. The Country is not so fertile but very stony in some parts And it consists in Plains and small Hills there being not a Mountain in all the Road. Now for a man that travels quick the Road lies thus From Ispahan to Consar From Consar to Comba From Comba to Oranguié From Oranguié to Nahoüand From Nahoüand to Kengavar Fron Kengavar to Sahana From Sahana to Polisha or the Bridge-Royal being a great Stone Bridge From Polisha to Maidacht From Maidacht to Erounabad From Erounabad to Conaguy From Conaguy to Caslisciren From Caslisciren to Iengui-Conaguy From Iengui-Conaguy to Casered From Casered to Charaban From Charaban to Bourous From Bourous to Bagdat There are some who instead of passing through Kengavar take Amadan one of the most considerable Cities of Persia in their way and so from thence to Toucheré but the way is longer and according to the Road which I have set down you are to leave Amadan to the North upon the right hand Between Sahana and Polisha you leave the only high Mountain in all the Road to the North. It is as steep and as straight as a Wall and as high as you can see you may observe the Figures of men clad like Priests with Surplices and Censors in their hands and yet neither can the Natives tell you nor any person imagin the meaning of those Sculptures At the foot of the Rock runs a River over which there is a Bridge of Stone About a days journey beyond the Mountain you meet with a little City whose situation the Streams that water it the good Fruits that grow there and particularly the excellent Wine which it affords render a most pleasant Mansion The Persians believe that Alexander when he return'd from Babylon dy'd in this place what-ever others have writt'n that he dy'd at Babylon All the rest of the Country from this City to Bagdat is a Country of Dates
the lowermost Those Buildings which are made of Brick bak'd in the Sun are very handsom and after the Wall is rais'd the Mason plaisters it over with a Morter made of Potter's Clay mingled with Straw so that the defects of the Building being cover'd the Wall appears very firm and close Then the Work-man plaisters the Morter over again with a Lime mixt with Muscovy-Green which he pounds with a certain Gum to render the Lime more glutinous and then rubbing the Wall over with a course Brush it becomes as it were damask'd and silver'd and looks like Marble The poor are contented with only bare Walls or some course daubing that costs little The middle of the House consists of a large Portico twenty or thirty Foot square and in the middle of the Portico a Fountain full of Water It is all open upon one side and from the Portico to the Pond or Fountain all cover'd with Carpets At every corner of the Portico is a Room to sit and take the fresh Air and behind another large Room the floor whereof is spread with Carpets Mattresses and Cushions according to the quality of the Master of the House Upon the two sides of the Portico are two other Chambers and doors to go from one Chamber to another and thus are the Houses of the great Lords built but only they are more spacious For their Houses consist of four great Parlours that look toward the our corners of the World and every Parlour has two Chambers upon each side which make eight Chambers that surround a great Hall in the middle The King's Palace is also built after the same fashion and generally the Persian Houses are very low it being a rare thing to see one three Stories high Yet all their Chambers and Rooms are arch'd wherein the Persian exceeds us For without all that trouble and time that we spend they will presently raise an Arch so broad and high as easily demonstrates the skill of the Work-man The tops of their Houses are flat and terrass'd being plaster'd with Earth mixt with Straw chopt very small and well temper'd which they bind together with a layer of Lime beat'n for seven days together which makes it as hard as Marble and if they want Lime they pave the Terrass with square Tiles bak'd in an Oven so that the Rain can do no harm But they are very careful to shovel off the Snow for fear it crack the Terrass with lying Without the Houses show nothing but within they are curiously painted with Birds and Flowers wherein the Persians are no bad Artists They take great delight to have several little Chambers with several Doors and Lattice-windows the quarrels whereof are of Glass of various colours This sort of glazing serves generally and indeed more properly for the Apartments where the Women may come For they might have Crystal-windows if they pleas'd but they glaze the void spaces in this manner that their Women may not be seen after they have fram'd the op'n place that gives light like a Flower-Pot with several Flowers in it which the Glass of several colours imitates to the life whereby it is impossible that the Windows should be peer'd through besides that it is pleasant to the Eye The Doors of their Houses are of Tchinar-Wood which is very noble and their Wainscoting is as neat The Persians that love ostentation always display their rich Carpets Mattresses Cushions Coverlets and all the most costly Furniture they have in the fore part of their dwellings For the Haram or the Women's Quarter is but meanly adorn'd in regard they are never visited by any men but their Husbands In some of their Rooms they have very narrow Chimnies for the Persians set all their Wood upright which they burn because of the Smoak besides they make but small Fires in regard they have so great a scarcity of Wood. When they would go to sleep they lye down upon a Plank cover'd with a Carpet and wrap themselves in a quilted Blanket In the Summer they sleep in the open Air upon their Terrasses and in regard the Women lye there too there is an order obtain'd that the Moullahs that sing upon the Mosquèes shall not presume to go up in the morning because it might be their hap to see the Women as they lay it being one of the highest pieces of infamy imaginable for a Woman to be discover'd with her Face op'n There are some Houses that belong to great Lords that have a square place before their Doors where they that come to visit them may put their Horses to the end the Street should not be pester'd If you look upon the Front of their Houses there is little ornament to be seen unless it be upon some which have been lately built CHAP. V. A Description of Ispahan the chief City of the Kingdom and Dominions of the King of Persia. ISpahan Sphahan or Sphaon as the Persians pronounce it which some Travellers have too unwarily affirm'd to be a fine City lyes in the Province of Hierac which composes some part of the ancient Kingdom of the Parthians It is the Capital City of all Persia and a very large place where the King usually keeps his Court. The Records of the Persians declare that formerly it was two contiguous Towns one part whereof belong'd to Haider and the other to Neamed-Olahi two parts of Ispahan still retaining those two names which has occasion'd great quarrels and debates among the people while they have both been eager to prefer their own quarter Nor indeed could Ispahan be accompted other than a Village before Sha-Abas had conquer'd the Kingdoms of Lar and Ormus But then observing so fair a Situation where he might as well be near the Provinces which he had newly conquer'd as for the design which he had to extend his Dominions to the East and West as he had enlarg'd them to the South he quitted Casbin and Sultany to reside at Ispahan as in the center of his Empire This City is seated in a vast plain which extends it self three ways fifteen or twenty Leagues Upon the South about two Leagues from Ispahan rises a very high Mountain on the top whereof toward the West are to be seen the remains of a very strong Fortress where Darius kept himself when Alexander gave Battle to him in that Plain In the side of the Rock is a Grotto either natural or artificial or both out of which issues a natural Spring of excellent Water where a Dervis usually inhabits The Circuit of Ispahan taking the Suburbs all in is not much less than that of Paris but the number of Inhabitants is ten times greater at Paris than at Ispahan Nor is it a wonder that a City should be so large and yet so ill peopl'd where every Family has its particular House and every House its particular Garden What ever way you come to it you may discover first the Towers of the Mosquees and then the Trees that environ the Houses so
whether they both consent then taking a little Water he says a few Prayers over it and then washing both their Foreheads he pronounces certain words and there 's all But they are not to marry within the third degree nor do they know what it means to desire a Dispensation But you must observe by the way that though they are allow'd five Wives there is but one which can be truly said to be marry'd with whom they are oblig'd to lye at least two nights in a week Fryday and Saturday and she always goes before the rest But if she have no Children in seven years the man is allow'd to marry another but not to repudiate the other whom he is bound still to maintain according to his quality So soon as Women or Maids perceive the custom of Nature upon them they presently leave their Houses and stay alone in the Fields in little Hutts made of Hurdles or Watlings with a Cloth at the entring in which serves for a Door While they are in that condition they have Meat and Drink brought them every day and when they are free they send according to their quality a Rid or a Hen or a Pigeon for an Offering after which they go to the Bath and then invite some few of their Kindred to some small Collation Of their Fasts Feasts and principal Ceremonies THe Gaurs drink Wine both men and women and eat Swines-flesh provided it be of their own breeding and feeding They are very careful lest their Hogs eat any ordure for should they perceive that they had devour'd any thing of nastiness they are strictly forbid'n to eat them They never pare their Nails so that if by way of disgrace or by any misfortune they are constrain'd to cut their Nails or their Hair they carry that which they cut off to some place appointed without the City for that purpose Five days in a year they abstain from Meat Fish Butter and Eggs and three other days they fast altogether 'till Evening They have also thirty Holy-days in honour of thirty of their Saints which they keep very strictly no man daring to work But the day of the Birth of their Prophet is celebrated with an extraordinary Pomp besides that then they bestow large Alms. There is one day in the year when all the Women of every City and Village meet together to kill all the Frogs they can find in the fields and this is done by the Command of their Prophet who was one day very much annoy'd by them Their Priests have several Books full of small Pictures in Water-Colours ill done representing how the several Sins of Men shall be punish'd in Hell especially Sodomy which they abominate Of their Funerals WHen the Gaurs are sick they send for their Priests to whom they make a kind of Confession whereupon the Priests enjoyn them to give Alms and other good Works to gain pardon of their Sins They neither burn nor bury their dead but carry the Corps without the City into a wall'd place where are abundance of Stakes seven or eight Foot high fix'd in the ground and tye the dead Corps to one of the Stakes with his Face toward the East They that accompany the Corps fall to their Prayers at a distance 'till the Crows come for those Cemitaries draw the Crows to them If the Crow chances to fasten upon the right Eye of the deceas'd then they believe the person to be happy and for joy they give large Alms and make a Feast in the field But if the Crow fixes upon the left Eye then they take it for an ill Omen return home sad without speaking to one another give no Alms nor eat nor drink Of their Adoration of Fire THe Gaurs would not be thought to give Honour to Fire under the title of Adoration For they do not account themselves Idolaters saying that they acknowledge but only one God Creator of Heaven and Earth whom they only adore As for the Fire they preserve it and reverence it in remembrance of the great Miracle by which their Prophet was deliver'd from the Flames One day being at Kerman I desir'd to see that Fire but they answer'd me they could not permit me For say they one day the Kan of Kerman being desirous to see the Fire not daring to do otherwise they shew'd it him He it seems expected to see some extraordinary Brightness but when he saw no more then what he might have seen in a Kitchin or a Chamber-fire fell a swearing and spitting upon 't as if he had been mad Whereupon the Sacred Fire being thus profan'd flew away in the form of a white Pigeon The Priests considering then their misfortune which had happen'd through their own indiscretion fell to their Prayers with the People and gave Alms upon which at the same time and in the same form the Sacred Fire return'd to its place which makes them so shy to shew it again When they put any persons to their Oaths they Swear them before this Fire for they think no person so impious as to swear false before that Sacred Fire which they take for the Witness of their Oath Their Priests put them in dread of very great punishments and threat'n them that the heavenly Fire will forsake them if they prove so wicked as to swear falsely before it Of their Manners and Customs THe Language of the Gaurs is different from the Persians as is their Character and manner of Writing They love to feast and to eat and drink well being very profuse of their Wine and Strong-water They never eat Hares because they have their monthly Purgations like Women for the same reason they never eat Mulberries believing that they partake of the nature of Women and Hares If when they comb their Hair or their Beards any one hair happ'ns to fall upon their cloaths those cloaths must be wash'd in the stale of a Cow or an Ox to purifie them again If by chance they happ'n to touch any ordure or nastiness when they come home they must wash themselves in the same Urin. If one of their Priests meet a dead Corps in the High-way and chances to see it he is oblig'd to wash himself in Cows-Piss which they hold to be a good Purification an Opinion held in some parts of India also I ask'd one of their Priests how they came to understand the virtue of this Urin who answer'd me that a certain person who was contemporary with the first Man having his Arm bruis'd and very black by reason of some accident that befel him through the malice of the Devil fell asleep in the fields and as he lay an Ox staling a drop of the Urin flew upon his Arm and presently heal'd that part which it wet and restor'd it to its former whiteness which the man perceiving when he wak'd presently follow'd the Ox and staid by him 'till he stal'd again and then receiving the Piss upon the whole wound was perfectly cur'd They also preserve it
the Patriarch sends two Bottles to all the Covents of Asia Europe and Africa without which they cannot baptize The Ceremony of Baptism being over the God-father goes out of the Church with the Infant in his arms and a Taper of white Wax in each hand According to the quality of the person when the Child is carry'd out of the Church the Trumpets Drums Hautboys and other Instruments of the Country make a hideous noise and go before the Infant to the Parents House where being arriv'd the God-father delivers the Child to the Mother She prostrates her self at the same time before the God-father kissing his feet and while she continues in that posture the God-father kisses her head Neither the Father nor God-father names the Child but he that baptizes gives him the Name of the Saint whose Festival falls upon the Sunday on which the Child is baptiz'd If there be no Saint's day that Sunday in the Almanack they take the next Name whose Festival succeeds the Sunday of Baptism so that they have no affected Names among them Upon the return of the God-father with the Child home there is a Feast prepar'd for all the Kindred and Friends and him that baptiz'd the Infant with whom all the Priests and Monks of the Covent at least of the Parish go along The poor people were wont to be so prodigal at these Feasts as also upon their Marriages and Burials that the next day they had not wherewithal to to buy Victuals much less to pay what they have borrow'd for so needless an expence But now the poor Armenians are grown so cunning to avoid the Bastinado's which are giv'n to Debtors upon the soles of the Feet when they cannot pay according to the custom of Persia that they carry the Child to Church upon the week-days without any Ceremony with tears in their eyes pretending it to be sickly and like to dye and so make no Feasts at all If the Women lye in fifteen or twenty days or two months before Christmas they defer the baptizing the Infant 'till the Festival provided the Infant be healthy Then in all the Cities and Villages where the Armenians live if there be any River or Pond they make ready two or three flat-bottom'd Boats spread with Carpets to walk upon in one of which upon Christmas-day they set up a kind of an Altar In the morning by Sun-rising all the Armenian Clergy as well of that place as of the parts adjoyning get into the Boats in their Habits with the Cross and Banner Then they dip the Cross in the Water three times and every time they drop the Holy Oyl upon it After that they use the ordinary form of Baptism which being done the Arch-bishop or the Minister plunges the Infant in the River or Pond three times saying the usual words I Baptise c. and the same anointings as before though it seems a wonder to me that the extremity of the weather does not kill the Child The King of Persia is many times present at this ceremony when it is perform'd at Ispahan riding on Horse-back to the side of the River with all his Nobility The Ceremony being over he goes to Zulpha to the Kelonter's House where there is an entertainment prepar'd for him Neither is there any place in the World where a King may be entertain'd with less charge than in Persia. For if any private person invite the King and that His Majesty pleases to do him that Honour 't is but for the inviter to go to the chief of the Officers and to carry him twenty Tomans or three hundred Crowns and to tell him withall that the King has promis'd to accept of a small Collation with his Slave For then the Governour is oblig'd to send to the House of him that treats the King all things necessary for the entertainment Else it were impossible to be done in regard the King eats in nothing but in Gold Plate At the end of the Feast the King is always presented with some European Rarity not less worth than four or five thousand Crowns Or if the person have no Rarity to present it suffices to offer in a Bason the value in Venetian Ducats of Gold with all the submission imaginable Besides all this some Presents must be giv'n to some of the Lords and principal Eunuchs of his train and others sent to the Queen Mother if living and to the Sultaness his Wives and Sisters Thus though the entertainment may be made with little trouble yet otherwise it proves somewhat expensive though the Armenians of Zulpha are well enough able to bear the charge I was twice at this Ceremony upon Christmas day in Ispahan The first time I saw Sha-Sefi and the second time Sha-Abas the second who drank both so hard that in their Drink they committed those crimes that very much stain'd their memories For Sha-Sefi returning home stab'd his Wife the Mother of Sha-Abas Sha-Abas another time returning home in drink would needs drink on and force three women to drink with him who finding he would not give over stole out of his Company The King perceiving them gone without taking leave in a mad humour sent his Eunuchs for them and caus'd them to be thrown into the Fire where the poor womâ—â— were burnt for there is no resisting nor examining the Kings command CHAP. XII Of the Marriages of the Armenians THE Armenians Marry their Children before either party have seen each other nay before the Fathers or Brothers know any thing of it And they whom they intend to Marry must agree to what their Fathers or Parents command them When the Mothers have agreed among themselves they tell their Husbands who approve what they have done Upon this Approbation the Mother of the Boy with two old Women and a Priest come to the House where the Mother of the Daughter lives and present her a Ring from him whom they intend to betroth The Boy appears afterwards and the Priest reads something out of the Gospel as a blessing upon both parties after which they give him a sum of Money according to the quality of the Father of the Girl That done they present the company with drink and this is call'd a betrothing or affiancing Sometimes they agree a Marriage when the Children are not above two or three years old sometimes two women that are friends being both with Child at one time together will make a match between the two Children before they are born if the one be a Boy and the other a Girl So soon as they are born the Contract is made and when once the Boy has giv'n the Ring thought it be twenty years after before they are Marry'd he is bound every year upon Easter-day to send his Mistris a new Habit with all the trimming belonging to it according to her quality Three days before the Celebration of Marriage the Father and Mother of the Boy prepare a Feast which is carry'd to the house of the Father and
makes away himself they never carry the Body out of the door of the house but make a hole in the wall where they can most conveniently and carry him to his Grave without any Ceremony The night preceding the Feast of the Holy Cross Men Women and Children go to the Church-yard whither they carry good store of Food not forgetting their Wine Immediately they fall a weeping over the Graves of the dead and after they have spent some time in that doleful Exercise they all fall to eating and drinking thus passing the whole night by turns in blub'ring eating and bubbing As for the poor people they would think themselves undone and the most unfortunate in the world should they want Provision and Wine to go to the Church-yards the night before the Feast of St. George where they go to frolick it rather then to pray for the Dead There may be some few Armenians that embrace Mahometanism for worldly Interest but they are generally the most obstinate persons in the world and most firm to their superstitious Principles CHAP. XIV Examples of the Constancy of the Armenians in maintaining their Religion against the Persecutions of the Mahometans IT is the custom of the Armenians that when any one of them apostatizes and desires to return again to the Church he cannot have Absolution but at the same City or Village where he first abjur'd his Religion Now it happen'd that a young Armenian being sent to Smyrna with a very considerable quantity of Goods and falling to debauchery turn'd Mahometan to the end he might defraud his Father and his Brethren of their Estate according to Haly's Law already mention'd But after he had spent good part of the Goods in Debauchery he return'd to the Three Churches where the Grand Patriarch liv'd to be absolv'd from his Fault but the Patriarch telling him he must go to the Bishop of Smyrna he went accordingly and in some few days after he had undergone the Penance enjoyn'd him he went to the Cadi and with a great Resolution Sir said he you know that some years since I turn'd Mahometan now I come to declare before ye that I have repented and do repent of the foul Crime I committed when I deny'd the Saviour of the World and embrac'd your wicked Law The Cadi who thought it had been at first only some evaporation of Extravagance endeavour'd to reclaim him by fair words and promises but when he heard him persist in his resolution when he heard him curse and blaspheme Mahomet he caus'd him to be carry'd to the Piazza where he was cut to pieces immediately For no persons go with more courage and joy to suffer for their Faith then the Armenians In the year 1651 there happen'd to be a Wedding between a young Turk and a Virgin of the same Nation To this Wedding was invited an Armenian Lady who was a great friend of the Bridegroom's Mother The Armenian had an only Son of about twelve years of age that earnestly desir'd to go along with her at first she refus'd him knowing that after the age of five or six years no Youth is permitted to be in company with the Turkish Women or Maids But the Boy still pressing his Mother and being seconded by an Aunt who to please her Nephew told her she might let him go in Girls Apparel at last the indulgent Mother over-rul'd by the importunity of the Child took him along with her in a female dress Three days the solemnity of the Turkish Weddings last but the very first day an old Gipsy-Turk casting her Eye upon the young Armenian and finding him too sparkish and too nimble for a Girl suspected his Sex and calling his Mother aside told her that by all the gestures and actions of the Child she could be no Girl but a Boy in disguise The Mother not only deny'd the matter but also seem'd highly offended at the old Womans suspition who as much incens'd to have her judgment question'd decoy'd the Child among the Eunuchs of the Family and caus'd him to be search'd and finding her self in the right spred it presently about the house Immediately the people cry'd that the Chambers were defil'd that the Armenian Lady had done it in derision of their Law and seizing Mother Aunt and Youth carry'd them all before the Basha demanding Justice The Basha dismiss'd the Mother and the Aunt but kept the Youth six or sev'n days hoping the rage of the people would be over But in vain he strove to plead for the Child though the Father offer'd them half the weight of him in Gold for the Basha was forc'd to deliver him up into the hands of the marry'd Womans kindred who carry'd the Child to the Market-place of the City where they stript him stark naked and first they flea'd him from his Neck behind down to the Wast and so left him with a Guard upon him all night The Cadi and Moullah's exhorted the Child to turn Mahometan and they would preserve him from further mischief His Mother beg'd him to have pity upon her and himself and to turn Mahometan to save his life But neither tears nor all the tender words that grief and affection could inspire could shake the constancy of the Infant who with a resolute utterance answer'd that he had hitherto suffer'd and still would suffer patiently and that nothing griev'd him but that his Mother should exhort him to deny his Saviour Next day the pitiless Turks came and flea'd all his Breast and his Stomach and so left him all night under a Guard intending to have flea'd him part by part every day But the Basha abhorring their Cruelty came the next day with his Guards and caus'd his Head to be cut off Van is a City peopl'd as well with Armenians as Turks so that it is a usual thing for the Armenian and Turkish Boys to play together One day it unfortunately fell out that the Boys playing one among another and flinging Stones at each other an Armenian Boy hit a young Turk full upon the Temples and strook him dead Presently the other Turkish Boys and the Rabble seiz'd him and carry'd him to the Basha the Father and Mother of the Child slain follow'd with hideous out-crys bawling for justice or that the Boy should turn Mahometan to expiate his fault The Armenian Parents offer'd a large sum of Money to redeem their Child but the adverse party obstinate against all accommodation the Basha was constrain'd to deliver the Child giving sentence that the young Armenian should endure the same death the Turk had suffer'd and no other Immediately the Turks hurry'd the poor Child to the place where he had unfortunately slain his play-fellow and after the Parents of the young Turk had had the two first hits he was presently brain'd by a show'r of Stones from the Rabble Yet as near death as he knew himself to be without any disturbance at all he exhorted his weeping play-fellows to stand firm to the Faith of
Conquests into Asia and defeated the Army of Bajazet whom he took Prisoner together with his Wife he return'd into Persia where at that time liv'd a Cheik whose name was Aidar a person in high reputation for his Holiness He was a person of great wit and the first in the dignities of the Law which gain'd him great authority and belief among the people He gave great honour to Tamerlane and shew'd Eminent kindnesses to all the Officers of his Army in recompence whereof Tamerlane who was a generous Prince and full of gratitude made a Present to the Cheik of a great number of Captives which he brought along with him out of Turky The Cheik planted one part of these Slaves about Ardevile and seated the other near his own residence Now in regard he assum'd to himself to be descended in a direct line from Mahomet he cover'd his head after another manner then all the rest of the Persians wearing a kind of flat Bonnet growing broader and broader to the top and so pleighted as to make twelve Pleights of a Ruff in honour of the twelve Prophets In the middle a kind of a Pyramid about a fingers length seem'd to rise out of the Bonnet but was indeed sow'd to it Such a Bonnet as this the Cheik appointed all the Slaves to wear that Tamerlane had giv'n him and this is that which at this day distinguishes their Successors from the other Persians And it is the custom where Kans or Governours of Provinces reside that all the Sophies both in the City and the neighbouring parts meet in the Piazza every Friday in the afternoon where they pray to God for the health of the King and the Kan and for the prosperity of the Kingdom after which the Kan sends them Victuals to eat not without some other effects of his Liberality The Cheiks Sons considering of what a number of Slaves they were Masters and that the greatest part of the people prepossess'd in favour of their Father out of the opinion they had of his Sanctity took their part the more powerfully to engage them shew'd themselves liberal to all and when they found themselves strong enough revolted against Alamout King of Persia their lawful Soveraign After many Skirmishes at length they gave him Battel near to Tauris wherein Azimout was defeated and slain by the hand of Ismael Sophi the Cheiks third Son who is properly to be accounted the first King of that Race I mean of the Race of them that did not embrace the Alcoran but according to the Interpretation of Haly Mahomets Son-in-Law To Ismael Sophi succeeded Sha-Tammas his Son and to Sha-Tammas Sha-Ismael the second who reign'd but a short while for his cruelties constrain'd the Nobility of the Country to set up in his room Mahomet-Coda bendé his Brother though little skill'd in the affairs of Government or War Many thought he was blind but he was only dim-sighted through the application of a hot Iron to his eyes by the Command of his unnatural Brother in the beginning of his reign He was the Father of Sha Abbas that succeeded him who setl'd the affairs of Persia in a very good condition Sha Abbas the first by his Valour and good Conduct gain'd the name of Great When he came to his Throne upon the North and West side he found nothing in his power but the City of Casbin but afterwards as he was a personage of great wit as well as courage partly by policy and partly by force he recover'd several Provinces to the West and conquer'd the Kingdoms of Lar Ormus and Candahar Of many Sons that Sha-Abbas had not one surviv'd but only Sophi-Mirza a Prince of great wit and dextrous at his Arms. All the people lov'd him which made his Father jealous of him that he waited for his death to ascend the Throne And that which augmented his jealousie was for that one day being a hunting Sophi-Mirza drew the first arrow at a Boar it being a capital crime in Persia to shoot before the King However Sha Abbas for the time conceal'd his displeasure unwilling to fly out in fury against the Prince in regard he had no more Sons But Sophi-Mirza having had a Son by a Slave which pleas'd him Sha Abbas's joy encreasing as the Child grew his jealousie also daily encreas'd against the Father of the young Prince so that being no longer able to dissemble his fear he caus'd his eyes to be put out Nay his jealousie went a great way farther for he now fear'd the blind Prince and having therefore resolv'd his death he commanded a Lord of the Court to bring him his head The Lord in an astonishment refus'd to obey the King and besought him rather to take away his life than to constrain him to embrue his hands in the blood of his Prince The King offended at him for his refusal banish'd him his Court and the next day gave the same command to another Lord who without any scruple put it in execution and brought him the head of his Son in a Bason of Gold That object of pity brought him to himself so that not being able to look upon so sad a spectacle without tears in his eyes upbraiding the villany of the Lord he expell'd him from his sight forbad him his presence for ever and sequesterd all his estate only allowing him a Mamoudi or nine French Sous a day The other Lord who had so generously refus'd to aid him in so bloody an act the King recall'd from Exile and bestow'd upon him one of the best Governments of the Empire Ever since that time all the Male Children of the Blood Royal are shut up in the Womens Haram where they are bred up in ignorance having only two or three Eunuchs to teach them to write and read and to keep them company in their recreations whether it be in shooting with a Bow or riding about the Gardens upon an Ass for they never allow 'em a Horse besides that all that time they are never permitted to see the people In this manner it was that Sha Abbas bred up his little Grandson many days causing him to take Opium to render him more stupid So that when he came to the Throne after his Grandfathers death the Physiicians thought it convenient that he should drink Wine to restore his natural heat and renew his vigor Sha Abbas reign'd forty years and dy'd at the end of the year 1628. Before he dy'd he gave command that he should be bury'd in some place unknown to all the world and that they should set his Grandchild upon his Throne and give him the name of Sha-Sefi So soon as Sha Abbas's eyes were clos'd the General of the Horse and the chief Captain of the Harquebusses with whom the Commands were left rode in all haste to Ispahan and coming to the Palace desir'd to speak with the Mother of the Child The Mother was in a sad affright believing that they came to put the young
Candahar who presently made answer that it would be very easie if he could find such another Traytor as he had been But to return to Sha-Sefi his Reign was very violent of which I will give you this Example One day the King returning from the Kelonters House in Zulpha having drank to excess commanded that the Sultaness should come to him who understanding that he was in drink made no great haste so that the King in the mean time fell asleep But waking again soon after and not seeing the Queen he call'd for her a second time of which when she had notice she came immediately When she came into the Chamber she perceiv'd the King asleep and in expectation of his waking hid her self in a Nich behind the Hangings where generally the Mattresses and Coverlets are laid by The King waking and not yet perceiving the Sultaness in a great chafe demanded why she was not yet come The Queen-Mother who was a Georgian Slave and mortally hated the young Sultaness who was the Daughter of the King of Georgia and therefore disdain'd by her took an occasion to put her out of the Kings favour and having first spok'n ill of her made a sign to the King to let him understand that the young Queen was hid in such a Nich. Upon that the King rising in a great fury stab'd the poor Princess with his Dagger four or five times in the belly and hardly knowing what he had done went to bed again The next day forgetful of the fact he call'd for the Queen but when they told him what had happen'd he began to be deeply sensible of his error and sorrow'd excessively and at the same time sent an express order through his Territories that no man should drink Wine and that the Governours should break all the Wine-Vessels wherever they found any and spill the Wine But this order did not last above a year During the Reign of Sha-Sefi the Kan of Erivan sent him a Colt which I saw which was begot by a Mule Not long after the King dy'd of a Surfet with excess of drink ing after he had reign'd fourteen years Sha Abbas the second was set upon the Throne at Casbin with the usual Ceremonies at the end of the year 1642 and made his entry into Ispahan in the beginning of the year following Upon the day of the Solemnity all the Citizens were order'd to be in Arms and to march out of the City where they were fil'd off upon each side of the Road. In the same manner were all the standing Infantry and Cavalry rang'd for five Leagues together All the Road for two Leagues together without the City was cover'd with Tissues of Gold and Silver with Carpets of Silk and other rich Stuffs all which costs the King nothing For the Sha-Bander who is like our Mayor takes care to tax every one what he is to furnish toward that Solemnity The English and Hollanders went also forth to meet the King among whom I was one When we came near the King Jani-Kan General of the Cavalry gave the King notice who we were Whereupon we all alighted and the King holding his Leg stretcht out of his Stirrup we all kiss'd his Boot When he came where the way began to be spread with rich Carpets he found the Grand Mufti and the Grand Cadi attended by a great number of Moullahs who made a Prayer after their manner Prayers being ended the King rode on the Athemadoulet being on the left hand which is the most honourable and the General of the Cavalry on the right yet not even with him but so as that their Horses heads reach'd to the Crupper of his There was no person but the King that rode over the Tissue that Honour belonging to him alone nor is the way spread above the breadth of the Stuff and as soon as the King is pass'd over it the people fall to scrambling and carry away every one what they can get for themselves About a quarter of a League from Ispahan is a Garden with a Great Room over the Gate where the King made a halt thinking to have made his Entry into the City But an Astrologer came to him and told him that the hour was past and that he must tarry three days before the hour would prove propitious again So that he was constrain'd to betake himself to the Garden of Hezardgerib till the time came whither the Nobility also were all forc'd to come betimes in the morning and to stay till the evening The day that the King made his Entry the way from the Garden to the City was also spread with Carpets For three days together the Fire-works play'd in the Meydan and round the Piazza from top to bottom were lights hung out and in the principal Inns the richest Merchants had adorn'd the Doors and Windows of their Chambers according to the Mode of the Country and I believe it cost the Chief of the Holland Company above nine hundred Tomans In the year 1643 came the Prince of the Usbecks in person to desire aid of Sha Abbas against his Children who had caus'd his own Subjects to rebel and make war against him His eldest Son first took Arms and getting the advantage of a Battel the other Brother treacherously took part with him which nothing dismay'd the Father to whom the chief of the Nobility still adher'd Toward the end of the year 1642 the Prince lost another Battel and his left eye which was shot thorough with an Arrow which constrain'd him so soon as he was cur'd of his wound to come and crave succour from the King of Persia which he easily obtain'd Sha Abbas designing to receive him honourably sent above ten thousand Horse as far as Cashan which is four days journey from Ispahan and five or six thousand Foot two days journey from thence to meet him Every day he was attended by different Officers Every day they set him up a new Tent and spread new Carpets and every day chang'd the twelve Horses that were led before him whose furniture was all over cover'd with Jewels For a League and a half from the City the way was spread with all sorts of Silk Stuffs to the very Palace and the King of Persia went himself to meet him as far as where the Stuffs were begun to be laid Though Sha Abbas was very young yet he was resolv'd to shew that he look'd upon himself as a potent King in the peaceable possession of his own Dominions and that he went to meet a dethron'd Prince that came to desire his Aid For so soon as he perceiv'd the King of the Tartars he made a shew of spurring on his Horse and being come up to his Horses head he put his foot out of the Stirrup as if he intended to have alighted but did not The Tartarian Prince as old as he was presently leap't to the ground from his Saddle to salute the Persian King who return'd him some slight Compliments
about his having alighted at which time the Athemadoulet and other Lords remounting him the two Kings rode together upon the Silks the King of Persia giving the left hand to the Tartar The King of Persia very generously lent him a considerable assistance of 15000 Horse and 8000 Foot and sixty thousand Tomans in Money The Tartar in Exchange gave him one of his Provinces bordering upon Persia which yeilded him a very good Revenue in regard the Inhabitants were all Shepherds or Turcomans that breed an infinite number of Cattel wherein the wealth of that Province consists While he reign'd he had a present made him from the Governour of Schiras of a wild Ass whose Skin was as red as Scarlet having a Horn growing out of his forehead about a foot long Sha Abbas reign'd about twenty-four years and dy'd at Tehzon of an inflammation in his throat which came by excessive drinking His body by his own order was buri'd at Kour So soon as he was dead the Lords that were about him sent advice of his death to the Prince that now reigns by the Topigi-Basha who is General of the Musqueteers and Mirza Bayad the Cheif of the Astrologers So soon as they came to the door of the Haram they desir'd to speak with the Mother and the Son who believ'd them come upon some dismal design But they presently confirm'd them to the contrary For as soon as the Prince came forth of the Haram they fell at his feet and saluted him King declaring the death of his Father Whereupon the Prince immediately tore his Garment according to the custom And indeed they have another custom that as soon as the new Prince comes after much entreaty out of the Haram he throws himself to the ground at the door of the Haram and then rising and sitting upon his heels one of the Lords that are sent girds the Scimiter about his waste saying these words May it please your Majesty to remember your Slave that had the Honour to grid you with this Scimiter Which done he goes and sets the Trumpets a sounding and the Drums beating whereupon all the people in the morning come running to the Gate of the Palace crying out Patsha Salamalek I salute thee Emperor Which is all the Ceremony us'd when any King of Persia ascends the Throne For I never saw any Crown set upon the head either of Sha Abbas or Sha Sefi Only in Persia they gird on the Scimiter as in Turky they put on the Bonnet of the Sophi's which is very richly set with Jewels but has not the least resemblance of a Crown The same Ceremony of girding on the Scimiter is us'd to the Mogul the Kings of Visapour and Golconda and they also put the Bonnet upon their heads which is set with the richest Jewels in the possession of those great Monarchs Sha-Sefi the second some time after his coming to the Throne fell dangerously sick not having ever enjoy'd a perfect health before Now it is the custom in those Countries that upon such an occasion all the Lords of the Court and Governors of Provinces give a sum of money according to their willingness and liberality This sum is usually in Gold which they put into a Bason very richly set with pretious Stones and bear it three times over the Kings head pronouncing these words Patsha Bashena Olson This money is sacrific'd for the health of the Kings head If the King recover all that money is giv'n to the poor to which the King and his Haram add very liberally But if the King dies the money is put into the Treasury and the poor have nothing The twentieth of August 1667 was the critical day of his distemper and every one thought he would have dy'd Upon which all the Grandees of the Court seeing him in that condition went to the Mosquee call'd Babaron which is without the City to pray for his health and altogether gave near a thousand Tomans to the poor The next day they commanded the Christian Armenians to pray for the recovery of the King Whereupon as well the Ecclesiasticks as the Laity went to their prayers upon the side of the River which is between Ispahan and Zulpha They also sent their Kelonter with fifty Tomans in Gold to bear over the Kings head though the Armenians pronounce not the same words as the Persians saying only Berai te Sadduk destin'd for Alms. Thus the danger being over in a few days they made it their business to recover him to a perfect habit of health but in regard the King continu'd in a languishing condition and for that the Physicians could not discover the cause of the distemper the King began to beleive that it proceeded from the ignorance of the Physicians for which reason some of them had receiv'd none of the best entertainment already At length it came into the thoughts of some others of the Physicians who were afraid for themselves that in regard Persia was thus doubly afllicted with Famine and the Sickness of the King both at one time it must of necessity be the Astrologers fault that miss'd the favourable hour when the King should have ascended the Throne Thus being troubl'd at their disgrace pretending to have no less skill in future knowledg than the Astrologers who had not chos'n a true time for the King to ascend the Throne they concluded that for the perfect recovery of his health and the restoring of plenty to the Nation it was necessary to renew the Ceremony at a lucky hour and to change his name This proposition pleas'd the King and his Council The Physitians and Astrologers joining together observ'd the first unlucky day which would certainly be follow'd by another that would prove fortunate Now there being among the Gaures some that pretend themselves descended from the Rustans who were ancient Kings of Persia and Parthia that very morning one of those Gaures setting himself upon the Throne with his back against a wooden Figure which represented him to the life all the Grandees of the Court came and did him homage as their King as he had order'd them to do This action lasted till the favourable hour was come which happen'd a little before Sun-set Then it was that an Officer of the Court came behind and cut off the head of the wooden Figure while the Gaure immediately took his heels and fled Presently upon that the King appear'd in the Hall upon whose head when they had put the Bonnet of Sophi and re-girt him with the Scimitar he ascended the Throne and took the name of Soliman He was forc'd to act this Comedy to satisfie the Law which contriv'd that he should change his Name and take a new possession of his Throne by ejecting a Usurper that had wrongfully claim'd it For which reason the Gaure was set up as Pretender as laying claim to the ancient Lineage of the Persian Kings and being of a different Religion From that time the King recovering and the Famine
the year 1381 and he purchas'd that great esteem among the Persians for having compos'd a great Book of Morality and for that he was also one of the best Poets of his time He has left one great Poem behind him in the praise of good Wine which has caus'd many to aver that Hougia-Hafiz was no good Mussul-man in regard he has so highly prais'd a thing which is so strictly forbidd'n by the Law of Mahomet Neer to the Church-yard is a fair Garden which men go to see for the beauty of the Cypress-trees which are its chief ornament They are to be admir'd for their height and bigness among which there is one that was planted by the hand of Sha-Abbas the Great himself in the year 1607 and it may well deserve to have been planted by the hand of a Monarch for it was bigger then the rest that had been planted above a hunder'd years before Without the City upon the North-side at the foot of the Mountain is a Garden belonging to the ancient Kings of Persia call'd Bag-Firdous It is full of Fruit-trees and Rose-trees in abundance At the end of the Garden upon the descent of a Hill stands a great piece of Building and below a large Pond affords it water The rich Inhabitants of Schiras have been formerly very curious to have fair Gardens and have been at great expences to that purpose But neither at Schiras nor at Ispahan is there any thing that may compare with those lovely Paradises of France and Italy There are many Inns in Schiras but the Franks generally lodg at the Convent of the Carmelite Friars and they that would be more private lodg at another House that belongs also to the same Friars which they would fain sell as being a charge to 'em at this time CHAP. XXII A continuation of the Road from Ispahan to Ormus from Schiras to Bander-Abassi THE sixth of March by eight of the Clock in the morning I departed from Schiras and after six hours travel through the plain that continues fertil for a league together beyond the City I came to an Inn call'd Badaadgi The water is bad being as it were luke-warm Here cold weather begins to cease The next day I set out by break of day and came to a large and well-built Inn only it stood remote from any Town It is call'd Mouzaffert and is the only place in Persia where I met with black Saligots or Water-nuts as big and as good as ours in Dauphine The Countrey breeds nothing but Goats and Sheep and about two leagues off runs a River along by the Mountain to the West The 18 th I departed by day-break and travell'd eleven hours through a stone-Countrey cover'd with bitter Almond and Turpentine-Trees I lodg'd in a fair Inn call'd Paira neer to a River that comes from the West and makes the Countrey fertil There is some Wood in the Valleys and some Villages appear on the other side of the River toward the South The 19 th I set out by four of the Clock in the morning and travell'd along a Valley wherein were many Villages receiving the benefit of the River last mention'd About eight in the morning I stopt at an Inn built in an Octogonal form a good league from the River with several Villages between The name of the Inn is Kaffer The 20 th I set out two hours after midnight and travell'd till ten in the morning through a dry Valley By the way I met several Shepherds and Herdsmen who were forsaking the hot Countreys and driving toward Schiras for coolness They that travel upon their own Horses and would see one of the richest parts of Persia and some Antiquities setting out from Kaffer instead of following the Caravan-road take the right-hand way by the side of the River that runs a league and a half from the same Inn. When you have past the River the way is very streight and lies for two leagues together through a steep Rock the Mountain upon the right and the River upon the left where there is not room in some places for two Horses to ride a-brest All along this way toward the top of the Mountain are little paths that lead to Caverns some of which are so large that they will contain two or three thousand men Having past this way you come into a Plain call'd Dadivan four or five leagues in circuit the greatest part of which is planted with Orange-trees Citrons and Granats Some of these Orange-trees two men can hardly fathom being as high as our Walnut-trees and this is one of the most delicious situations in all Persia. I have travell'd through it several times and sometimes only to divertise my self The rest of the Plain is sow'd with Rice and Wheat You set up your Tents under these Trees and then the Countrey people bring Provision of several sorts especially Partridges Hares and wild Goats The River that crosses the Plain is full of Carps Barbels Pikes and Crey-Fish I remember one time a Countrey-man carri'd me down to the water and before my face took up a Fish with his hand He was so nimble at it that having caught one which he did not think big enough he threw it back again and took up another Now in regard that Travellers generally stay about ten or twelve days in that place the Tumblers that live there-abouts fail not to come and give you a Visit to shew ye some of their tricks and to tast your Schiras Wine The English and Hollanders usually spend the end of the Summer in this Plain for the benefit of the River and the Trees which become so large and fair by means of the River which the Countrey-men bring in by Canals and shut it up in Ponds among the Trees to water their Grounds which is all the good this River does in Persia for all the rest of its course is through cragged Rocks and salt Marshes The 20 th of March by ten in the morning I came to an Inn which was call'd Moushek which is a-lone-House at the foot of a Rock There is a Spring about five hunder'd paces from it but the water is hot and has a sulphury tast so that the Cattel will hardly drink it Therefore you must go to a Cistern about two Musquet-shot from the Inn where there is one newly set up instead of another that was there before into which a Jew once chanc'd to fall in and was therefore broken by the superstitious Mahometans Three quarters of a league from Moushetz are two roads that lead to Lar the one for the Camels the other for the Horses and Mules The first is the longest by three days journey and is call'd the Road of the Desert for after you have past a great Town inhabited only by Camel-Masters where you lye the first night between that and Lar you shall meet with nothing of Houses but only Herdsmens Tents that feed sometimes in one place sometimes in another Upon the Camels Road there are
another sort of Fowl like the great Partridges in their bodies but their legs and feet resemble those of wild Ducks The Camels take this Road because it is impossible for them to pass the Mountain Jarron over which the Horses and Mules are hardly able to travel I set out from Moushek the 21 th of March at two in the morning and having travell'd till eight through a plain but stony Countrey I came to the little City of Jarron which is rather to be call d a Forrest of Palm-trees that bear excellent Dates I lodg'd in an Inn five hunder'd paces from the City and staid there two days The 24 th setting out presently after midnight I travell'd a good hour and then I began to mount the steep Mountain of Jarron which is very high and very long but the descent is the most dangerous that ever I saw in all my Travels and besides that the Moon did not shine Being at the top after you have descended three or four hunder'd paces you meet with a Bridg of one Arch that reaches from one Mountain to another a bold piece of Architecture not enough to be admir'd being rais'd at the charges of Iman-Kouli-Kan for the benefit of Travellers Being come to the bottom of this you must pass two others as steep in their ascent as in the descent upon the top of one of which stands a Cistern which though it be very large is generally emptied by the end of the Summer Upon these Mountains there is such an infinite quantity of Partridg that a man cannot miss that will but shoot By eight in the Morning I came to an Inn which is call'd Shakal which is a-lone House in a Desert Countrey but stor'd with bitter Almond-trees and Turpentine-trees Approaching neer to the Inn you meet with two or three Cisterns which are a great comfort to Travellers water being very scarce upon this Road. There are at Shakal nine or ten Radar's for the Guard of the Road who are also Masters of the Inn So soon as you are alighted they ask you if you will eat any Kid being sure of their blow and having no more to do but to go to the Mountain and fetch one where they swarm There are store of Partridges which are almost as big as Pullets of which you may easily kill as many as you please The 25 th I travell'd five hours from morning till noon An hour after I took Horse I met with a Mountain the descent whereof was very steep They call it the Mountain of Hâ—shen at the foot whereof is a Fountain of excellent water A good league farther you meet with a fair Inn call'd Mouezeré in the midst of a pleasant Grove where there is an excellent Spring of water but because there is no food to be had you must go as far as Detadombé a Village seated in a plain A quarter of a league on this side upon the top of a Mountain appears the ruins of an old Castle the Village it self being surrounded with Palm-trees The Inn is a good one provided with a very good Cistern The 25 th I travell'd through a plain for three hours and stopt at Banarou a little City well built at the foot of a high Mountain upon which appears the remains of a large Castle Bonarou is the Frontier Town of the Province of Fars bordering upon the Province of Lar. The 26 th I departed an hour after midnight and travell'd till nine in the morning partly through the Plain and partly through the Mountains where I saw an old Tower for the guard of the Road. I staid at Bihry a little City seated upon a plain that borders upon a high Mountain The Inn is new and very magnificently built by the Mother of Aimas Kan of Lar when the great Sha-Abbas took this Countrey from the Gaures whom he constrain'd to turn Mahumetans The 27 th I set out at four of the Clock in the morning and about seven I past through a Village seated in a small plain A league from thence I lodg'd in an Inn call'd Pai-Cotali that is to say the foot of the Mountain as being built at the foot of the Mountain From thence to Lar is not above four or five hours travelling but the way is very bad and several swift Torrents are to be past over You may take another Road from Bihry upon the right-hand toward the West it is the shorter way by two or three leagues but so bad and so narrow that in many places two Horsemen cannot ride a-brest being for the most part all Rocks and Precipices Lar is the Capital City of the Province of the same name which formerly bore the title of a Kingdom It is but of an ordinary bigness enclos'd on both sides with high Mountains being built round about a Rock upon which there stands a Castle of Free-stone wherein the King keeps a Garrison The whole Country is very hot nor have they any water but Rain water which they preserve in Cisterns and which sometimes causes a wide Torrent that runs by one side of the City and falls from a Cascade two stories high made of Free-stone In the City and parts adjacent grow a great number of trees especially Date trees and Tamarisk The Gardens also and Mountains are full of Orange trees There are but two Inns in Lar the one within the City which is not a very good one the other at the end of the City toward Ormus which would be convenient but that it is always afloat when the Rains fall for which reason the Franks generally lye at the Hollanders House at the end of the City And there is a necessity for staying at Lar to change the Camels for the Camels that come from Ispahan can go no further every City having their particular priviledges Which sometimes proves prejudicial to the Merchant in regard the Governour will delay the change of the Camels till he is presented The Fortress of Lar takes up the whole surface of the top of the Rock and there is but one way to climb it up with great difficolty It is more long than broad and the four corners are fortifi'd with four Bastions or Bulwarks between which are rais'd several Towers for the Souldiers Lodgings That Fortress is the Royal Prison whither the King sends such Prisoners as he takes in war or surprizes by stratagem I met with two there one a Prince of Georgia the other of Mengrelia The two Princes had each of them a Toman a day allow'd them and ten or twelve Servants to wait upon them Upon one of the corners of the Castle toward the West was built a Banquetting House with three or four Chambers In the middle of the Court stands the Magazine full of Bows and Arrows Bucklers and Muskets enough to arm fifteen hundred men For the Inhabitants of the Province but more especially of the City of Lar are accounted the best Musqueteers in Persia and the best at making the Barrels of Muskets
left-hand way is a dangerous passage and a kind of a continu'd Labyrinth among Rocks and Precipices The right-hand way which is the best is all upon the sand to Bander-Abassi and is usually a days journey You meet with two Inns by the way the last of which is call'd Bend-Ali built by the Sea-side From Ben-Ali to Bander-Abassi is but a little more then two leagues through a Countrey abounding in Palm-trees CHAP. XXIII Of the Island of Ormus and of Bander-Abassi ORmus is an Island in 92. d. 42. m. of Longitude and in 25. d. 30. m. of Latitude It lies at the mouth of the Persian Gulph two good Leagues from the firm Land There is neither tree nor herb that grows in it for it is all over cover'd with Salt which is very good and as white as snow And as for the black shining Sand-dust of Ormus it is very much us'd for standishes Before the Portugueses came to Ormus there was a City where the Kings of Ormus who were also Kings of Larr resided When the Portugals took it there were in it two young Princes Sons of the deceased King whom they carri'd into Spain Where in regard they were handsomely proportion'd though somewhat swarthy the King entertain'd them very kindly and gave them an honourable allowance One day that he had shew'd them the Escurial and all the chief pieces of Architecture in Madrid the King ask'd them what they thought of living in Spain To whom they answer'd that they had seen nothing but what was worthy admiration but then fetching a deep sigh and perceiving the King desirous to know the meaning of it they gave him to understand that it was for grief that they must never more sit under their own Tree For near to the City of Ormus was a Bannians tree being the only tree that grew in the Island The Portugals being masters of the Island from an ill-built City rear'd it to that hight of Magnificence which that Nation admires so that the very barrs of their doors and windows were all guilt The Fortress was a noble thing and in good repair and they had also a stately Church dedicated to the Virgin where they were also wont to walk For other place of promenading they had none Since the Persians took it the Castle indeed stands in good repair with a Garrison in it but the City is gone to ruine for the Dutch carried most of the stones away to build Battavia Between the Island of Ormus and the Continent the Sea is not very deep for the great ships that sail in and out of the Gulf pass by the other side of the Island As for the Fortress which stands upon a poynt of the Island it is almost encompass'd with the Sea and lyes right over against Persia. Bander Abassi so call'd because the great Sha-Abbas the first brought it into reputation is at present a City reasonably well built and stor'd with large warehouses over which are the lodgings of the Merchants While the Portugueses kept Ormus though they liv'd in the City all the trade was at Bandar-Abassi as being the most secure Landing-place upon all the Coast. About 15 years ago it was an op'n town but because it was an easie thing then to get into the Town and rob the Custome-house in the night it has bin since enclos'd with walls To this place come all the ships that bring Commodities from India for Persia Turkie or any part of Asia or Europe And indeed it would be much more frequented by the Merchants from all Regions and Countries But the Air of Bander is so unwholesome and so hot that no strangers can live there in probability of health unless it be in the months of December January February and March though the Natives of the Country may perhaps stay without prejudice to the end of April After that they retire to the cooler Mountains two or three days journey off for five or six months where they eat what they gain'd before They that venture to stay at Gomron during the hot weather get a malignant Fever which if they scape death is hardly ever cur'd However it bequeaths the yellow Jaundies during life to the party March being pass'd the wind changes and blowing at west south west in a short time it grows so hot and so stifling that it almost takes away a mans breath This wind is by the Arabians call'd El-Samiel or the poysonous wind by the Persians Bade-Sambour because it suffocates and kills presently The flesh of them that are thus stifl'd feels like a glewie fat and as if they had been dead a month before In the year 1632. riding from Ispahan to Bagdat I and four more Persian Merchants had bin stifl'd but for some Arabians that were in our Company For when they perceiv'd the wind they caus'd us to light lye down upon our bellies and cover our selves with our Cloaks We lay so for half an hour and then rising we saw our horses were in such a sweat that they were hardly able to carry us This happen'd to us two days journey from Bagdat But this is observable that if a man be in a Boat upon the water when the same wind blows it does no harm though he were naked at the same time Sometimes the wind is so hot that it burns like Lightning And as the Air of Gomron is so bad and dangerous the soil is worth nothing For it is nothing but Sand nor is the water in the Cisterns very good They that will be at the charge fetch their water from a fountain three leagues from Bander call'd the water of Issin Formerly there was not an herb to be seen but by often watering the ground Lettice Radish and Onions have begun to grow The People are swarthy and wear nothing about them but only a single shirt Their usual dyet is dates and fish Which is almost the dyet of their Cattel for when they come home from browsing the barren bushes they give them the heads and guts of their fish boyl'd with the kernels of the Dates which they eat The Sea of Bander produces good Soles good Smelts and Pilchards They that will have oysters must have 'em caught on purpose for the people eat none Upon Land they want neither for wine of Schiras nor Yesd nor for Mutton Pigeons and Partridge which are their ordinary dyet There are two Fortresses one upon the East the other toward the West The Town increases in trade and building and fills with inhabitants who build their houses with the remaining ruins of Ormus The reason why the Trade is settl'd rather at Bander Abassi then at Bander Congo where the Air is good and the Water excellent is because that between Ormus and Congo lie several Islands which make the passage for ships dangerous besides that the often change and veering of the wind is requir'd neither indeed is there water enough for a Vessel of 20 or 25 guns Then the way from Congo to Lar is very
BAPTISTA TAVERNIER BARON of AUBONNE THROUGH Turky and Persia TO THE INDIES During the space of Forty years Giving an Account of the present State of those Countries viz. of their RELIGION GOVERNMENT CUSTOMS and COMMERCE AS ALSO The Figures Weights and Value of the MONEY and COINS severally currant therein The Second Part DESCRIBING INDIA and the ISLES Adjacent Made English by J. P. LONDON Printed in the Year 1678. THE INDEX TO THE Persian Travels A. ACcident that befell the Author at Balsara 64 65. Aleppo describ'd 57. Alexandretta 55. The road dangerous for Ships ib. Ali-Kouli-Kan his Story 218 219. Allachars vid. Philadelphia Almanack Persian 234. Almerdan-Kan delivers up Candahar to the Mogul 198. His answer to the Mogul ib. Amadan describ'd 75. Amadie 108. Amasia 4. Anna 111. Antioch 56. Aphian Carassar 37. Arabian Princes exact from the Caravans 59 61 63. Aras anciently Araxes 9. Arbele Plun 73. Arch-Bishop of Armenia 16. Ardevol describ'd 24. Armenians their behaviour at Church 13. Remov'd by Sha-Abbas 16. Their Religion ib. Their custom before meals 18. Great Traders 159. Their Languages ib. Their Marriages 172. Their Christnings 171 c. Their Burials 173. Artaxate 13. Asiaticks idle Asparagus wild 8. Assaque 114. Astracan 116. Astrology admir'd by the Persians 234. Athemadoulet vid. Officers Athens 121. Aydar 195. B. BAgdat describ'd pag. 84. Balsara 88. Baker how punish'd 234. Bandee-Abassi 255. Bannians expell'd by Sha-Abas 202. Baptism of the Armenians 171. St. Bartholomew 16 17. Basha of Cyprus 81. Bedovins what and how they live 66. Beauty among the Arabs 112. Betlis 105. Bey what 105 106. Bishop Armenian buri'd 18. Books Persian 227 229. Bread how made in the Desert 62. Bufalo's fighting of Bufalo's an Armenian sport 12. C. CAchan pag. 30. Calaat how receiv'd by the Kans 236. Camels their breeding nature and several sorts Camel-drivers a rude sort of people 48. One kill'd by a Cafer ib. Great cheats 50. Candahar describ'd 258. Caudy remarks upon the Trade of it 118. Carriage what 11. Where paid 38. Caravans where they set out 2. Constrain'd to stop 8 9 11. Caravanseras the order among them 45. Casbin 26. Cazerom 65. Ceremony of the Taper among the Armenians and the occasion 12. At the Enthronement of the King 200 c. Chamber of the King's Accounts 227. Charkliquen describ'd 6. Children of the King 's of Persia how bred 196. Chimneys how made in Persia 238. Chio 119. Christians of St. John and their opinions 90 c. Chrysostom's Rock 6. Churches the three Churches 10 11. The richness of the Armenian Churches 12 13. Circastia 126. Customs of the people 129. Civility of two Arabians very remarkable 111. Coffee-houses inspected by Sha-Abas 154. Colledges Persian 227 Comania 126. Customs of the people 129. Combat between two Bulls one call'd Ali the other Mahomet 29. Comouks their Customs and Feasts 128 c. Constancy of the Armenians in defending their Religion 174. Corgia Petrus his Wealth 159. Corinth 121. Coron ib. Corou 31. Covents Armenian 16. Courriers Arabian use Dromedaries for speed 61. Coins of Persia 50 c. Curtisrns how distinguish'd 86. Customers of Bagdat 83. Curdes a strange sort of Arabs 106. Customs of Persia 234. Cyclades Islands 120. Byprian Birds 80. Cyprus describ'd 79. D. DAnger of leaving the Caravan pag. 6. Darius 73. Debauchery punish'd 232. Dengbe 26. Dervichs the strange reverence they gave to Sultan Amurat 60. Desert describ'd 61. Diarbeguir describ'd 104. Diet of the Persians 241. Diseafes of Persia 239. Their Cure 240. Disposition of the Persians 235. Domenico Santis the story of him 72 c. Dromedaries see Courrier Duties where paid 9 10 14 18 20 59 106 107 112 115 116. E. ECclisia 17. Embassadors expences born in Persia 14. Embassador Indian the story of him 65. Emirs of Arabia 63 64. Ephesus 34. Erivan describ'd 13. Betraid retaken by the Persian 14. Erzerome describ'd 8. Euphrates 8 58. 71. Exchequer Persian 227. Ezekiel the Prophet his Sepul 86. F. FEast of Hozen and Hussein 161. St. Francis of Paolo's Miracle 113. Franks in Alexander's Army 14. Seat themselves near Erivan ib. Funerals at Bagdat describ'd 85 86. Inconvenient to the poor ib. Funerals of the Persians 244. G. GAlleys of the Grand Signior their demands when out at Sea 54. Their present condition 122. Gaming not allowd 236. Gaures their Religion and present condition 163. Their Origiual and Prophets 164. Their Books 165. Their Baptism Marriages Feasts Fasts and Funerals 166. Their adoration of Fire 167. their manners and customs ib. Beasts which they love or hate 168. Genealogy of the Persian Kings 195. Georgia the present state of it 123. Gezire 108. Godfrey of Bologne's Arms 55. Gorno Fortress 68. Government of Persia 219. Grand Signior's power over his Bashas 8. Gregory St. martyr'd 13. Gulph Persian 95. Guni 114. H. HAbit of the Persians 237. Halicarcara 10. Haly not much resorted to by the Persian Pilgrims and why 62. St. Helena 22. Hizargerib the fairest Garden of Persia 157. High-ways how secur'd in Persia 233. Strangers bound to hire Horses from Alexandretta to Aleppo 55. Horses Arabian 65. I. JAfer-Kan the Story of him 210. Janizary strikes out an Armenian Bishop's eye 10. Jasque the Prince there of Rebels Jealousie of the Persians 239. Iman-Kouli-Kan the story of his death 204 c. Jonas Whale 54. Ispahan fully describ'd 148 c. St. Jude 86. Justice of the Persians 232. K. KAffa the City 113. Kaguisgan Fort 10. Kalmouchs what sort of people 127. Kans of Persia 14. Civil to strangers ib. 225. Kan of Erivan betrays the Town and teaches the Grand Signior to drink 14. The Kan of Kerman kind to the Author 41. Kan of Kan his sad end 30. Kars describ'd 9. Keckmish 49. Besieg'd by the Hollander ib. Kerman describ'd 41. Kilet 82. King of Persia's favours 236. Kom describ'd 28. L. LAke of Antioch 56. Lance that pierc'd the side of Christ 13. Languages us'd in Persia 229. Lar describ'd 253. Latitudes of the chiefest Cities of Persia 135. Locusts 65 81. Longitudes of the principal Cities of Persia 135 c. M. MAhomet-Ali-beg the story of him 42 c. He punishes his own Son 44. Mahomet-beg his misfortune 212. Revengeful 212 c. Malta the great Ceremony of the grand Muster upon Lady-day 78. Manners of Persia. See Customs Marante 20. Market-price how settl'd 55 234. Marriages of the Persians 243. Meal the strange nature of Persian meal 27. Mengrelia the present State of it 125. Messina describ'd 2. Milo Island 120. Mirza-Ibrahim 23. Mirza-Take his story 197. Modon 121. Money of Persia. See Coins Monuments Turkish 3 4 24 25. Mother kills her own Son instead of a Bannian 202. Moulla's 226. Moussal describ'd 71. Murder committed in the Desert 112. Punish'd in Persia 232. N. NAcksivan describ'd 16. Names and Employments of the Officers of the King's House 221 c. Of the Military Officers 223. Naxis 120. Nazar vid. Officers Nemrod or the supposed Tower of Babel 86. Nibia
a North-east-wind which carries them from Suratt to Ormus in fifteen or twenty days Then veering a little to the North it serves as well for those that are bound for Suratt as those that are bound from thence Then the Merchants generally provide for a Voyage of thirty or five and thirty days But if they would Sail from Ormus to Suratt in fourteen or fifteen days they must take Shipping either in March or at the beginning of April for then the Western-wind blows full in their Stern The Vessels which Sail from Ormus run within sight of Mascate upon the Coast of Arabia bearing off to Sea for fear of coming too near the Persian Coast. They that come from Suratt do the same thing to make the Entry of the Gulf. But neither the one nor the other touch at Mascate to avoid paying Customs to an Arabian Prince who took that place from the Portugals Mascate is a City situated just by the Sea-side over against three Rocks that make the Entry into the Harbour very difficult and at the foot of a Mountain upon which the Portugals have three or four Forts It is observed that Mascate Ormus and Balsara are the three places in the East where the heat is most insupportable Formerly only the Hollanders and English understood this Course of Navigation but some years after the Armonians Mahometans Indians and Banians have built them Vessels But it is not so safe to Embark in them for they neither understand the Sea so well nor are they so good Pilots The Vessels that Sail to Suratt which is the only Part in the Empire of the Great Mogul Sail within fight of Diu and the Point of St. John and come to an Anchor afterwards in the Road of Couali which is not above four Leagues from Suratt and two from the Mouth of the River toward the North They transport their Wares from one place to another either by Waggons or in Boats For great Vessels cannot get into the River of Suratt till they have unladen by reason of the Sands that choak it up The Hollanders return as soon as they have landed their Wares at Couali and so do the English it not being permitted to either to enter into the River But some years since the King has given the English a place to Winter in during the rainy Seasons Suratt is a City of an indifferent bigness defended by a pittiful Fortress by the foot whereof you must pass whither you go by Land or by Water It has four Towers at the four Corners and in regard there are no Platforms upon the Walls Guns are planted upon woodden-Scaffolds The Governour of the Fort only commands the Souldiers in the Fort but has no Power in the City which has a particular Governour to receive the King's Customs and other Revenues through the Extent of his Province The Walls of the Town are only of Earth and the generality of the Houses like Barns being built of Reeds plaistered with Cow-dung to cover the void spaces and to hinder them without from discerning between the Reeds what is done within In all Suratt there be but nine or ten Houses which are well built whereof the Cha-bander or chief of the Merchants has two or three The rest belong to the Mahumetan Merchants nor are those wherein the English and Hollanders dwell less beautiful every President and every Commander being careful to repair them which they put upon the account of their Companies However they do but hire those Houses the King not suffering any Frank to have an House of his own for fear he should make a Fortress of it The Capuchin Friars have built them a very convenient Convent according to the Model of our European Houses and a fair Church for the building of which I furnish'd them with good part of the Money But the Purchase was made in the Name of a Maronite Merchant of Aleppo whose Name was Chelebi of whom I have spoken in my Persian Relations CHAP. II. Of the Customs Money Exchange Weights and Measures of the Indians TO avoid Repetitions which cannot be shunn'd in the Course of long Travels it behoves me to let the Reader understand what belongs to the Custom-houses Money Exchange Weights and Measures of the Indians When your Commodities are unladen at Suratt you must carry them to the Custom-house adjoyning to the Fort. They are very severe and very exact in searching the people Particular Merchants pay from four to five per Cent at the Custom-house for all sorts of Ware But for the English and Holland-Company they pay less But I believe if they did but cast up what it costs them in Deputations and Presents which they are oblig'd every year to send to the Court they would not pay much less for their Wares than particular Merchants Gold and Silver pay two in the Hundred and when it is brought into the Custom-house the Master of the Mint comes and takes it and Coins it into the Money of the Countrey They agree with him upon the day wherein he will undertake to return the new Pieces And for so many days as he makes them stay after that he pays them Interest according to the proportion of the Silver which he receives The Indians are very subtil and crafty in matters of Money and Payments three or four years after the Silver is coin'd it loses half per Cent. and goes at the same rate as old Silver for say they it is impossible but that it should lose in passing through so many hands You may carry all sorts of Silver into the Dominions of the Great Mogul For in all the Frontier Cities there is a Mint where it is purified to the highest perfection as is all the Gold and Silver in India by the King's Command and coin'd into Money Silver in Bars or old Plate which is bought without paying for the fashion is the Silver by which you shall lose least For as for coin'd Silver there is no avoiding the loss of the Coinage All their bargains are made with a condition to pay in coin'd Silver within the present year .. And if you make payment in old Silver you must resolve to lose according to the time since it was first-coin'd In all places far remote from Cities where the vulgar people have no great knowledge in Silver and where there are no Changers they will not receive a piece of Silver without putting it in the fire to try whether it be good or no And this is the common practice at all Ferries and passages over Rivers In regard their Boats are only made of Ofier covered over with an Ox-hide and by consequence are very light they keep them in the Woods and will not take them upon their shoulders till they have received their Money As for their Gold the Merchants have so many cunning tricks to hide it that it seldom comes to the knowledg of the Customers They do all they can to shift off paying the Customs and that so
to Gate costes 3 Gate is a strait passage of the Mountains a quarter of a league in length the descent whereof leads from Surat to Agra At the entry thereof you see the ruins of two or three Castles and the Road is so narrow that two Waggons can hardly go a breast They that come from the South to go to Agra as from Surat Goa Visapore Golconda Maslipatan and other places cannot avoid these streights there being no other Road but this especially if you take the Road from Amadabat Formerly there was a Gate at each end of the streight and at that end which is next to Agra there are five or six Shops of Banians that sell Flower Butter Rice Herbs and Pulse In my last Travels I staid at one of these Shops to carry for the Coaches and Waggons all the Passengers alighting at the foot of the Streights Not far off there is a great Magazin full of sacks of Rice and Corn and behind every sack lay a Serpent thirteen or fourteen foot long and proportionable in bigness A Woman that went to fetch Corn out of one of those sacks was bitten by one of those Serpents and perceiving her self wounded ran out of the Magazin crying out Ram Ram that is O God O God whereupon several Banians men and women came running to her relief and bound her arm very hard above the wound thinking to stop the venom from running any higher But all in vain for immediately her face swell'd and turn'd black and she dy'd in less than an hour The Ragipou's who are the best Souldiers among the Indians and are all Idolaters came in just as the woman was expiring and about four of them entring with their Skains and Half-pikes in their hands into the Magazin kill'd the Serpent The people of the Village took and threw it without the Town and immediately there came a great number of Birds of prey which lighting upon the Carrion devour'd it in less than an hours time The Parents of the woman took her body carri'd it to the River wash'd it and then burnt it I was forc'd to stay two days at that place because there was a River to pass which instead of falling swell'd at that time by reason of the rains that fell for three or four days together So that I was constrain'd to go half a league lower before I could cross it They always endeavour'd to ford this River for otherwise they must be compell'd to unload the Waggon into the Boats and also to carry the Goods in their arms for above half a league which is worse way than can be imagin'd The people get their livings by the Passengers from whom they extort as much as they can there being none but they that know the ways Otherwise it would be an easy thing to make a Bridg there being no want either of Wood or Stone near at hand For the passage is nothing but thorough Rocks that lie between the Mountain and the River so that the waters when they swell overflow all the Road in-so-much that no-body can pass it but they who are very well acquainted with it From Gate to Nader costes 4 Nader is a great City upon the descent of a Mountain at the top whereof is a kind of a Fortress all the Mountain being encompast with walls The greatest part of the Houses as in all other Cities of India are thatch'd with straw one Story high but the Rich-men's Houses are two Stories and terrass'd Round about the City are several great Ponds to be seen which were formerly encompast with hewn-stone but now are not at all look'd after yet there are very fair Monuments about them The same River which we past the day before and which we repass four or five Costes on this side Nader encompasses three parts of the City and Mountain like a Peninsula and after a long winding-course which it takes falls at length into Ganges At Nader they make a great quantity of quilted-Coverlets some white others embroidered with Flowers of Gold Silk and Satin From Nader to Barqui-sera costes 9 From Barqui-sera to Trie costes 3 From Trie to Goualeor costes 6 Goualeor is a great City ill-built like all the rest after the manner of the Indians it is built all along the side of a Mountain that lies upon the West-side of it and which at the top is encompast with Walls and Towers There are in this Enclosure several Ponds made by the rains and what they sow there is sufficient to keep the Garrison For which reason it is esteem'd one of the best in the Indies Upon the descent of the Hill which looks towards the North-east Cha-jehan built an House of Pleasure from whence there is a Prospect over all the City and indeed it may serve for a Garrison Below the House are to be seen several Idols cut out of the Rock representing the shapes of their Gods And among the rest there is one of an extraordinary heighth Since the Mahometan Kings became Masters of this Countrey this Fortress of Goualeor is the place where they secure Princes and great Noblemen Cha-jehan coming to the Empire by foul-play caus'd all the Princes and Lords whom he mistrusted to be seiz'd one after another and sent them to the Fortress of Goualeor but he suffer'd them all to live and enjoy their Estates Aureng-zeb his Son acts quite otherwise For when he sends any great Lord to this place at the end of nine or ten days he orders him to be poison'd and this he does that the people may not exclaim against him for a bloody Prince So soon as he had in his clutches Prince Morat-Bakche his youngest Brother whom he engaged to take Arms against his Father Cha-jehan and who being Governour of the Province of Guzerat took upon him the Title of King he sent him to this Fortress where he dy'd They have made him a most magnificent Monument in the City in a Mosquee which they built on purpose with a great Piazza before it all surrounded with Vaults and Shops over them For it is the custom of the Indians when they rear any publick Building to make a great Piazza before it where they keep their Markets with a Foundation for the Poor to whom they give Alms every day as being to pray to God for him that rais'd the Fabrick Five Cost's from Goualeor you ford a River which is call'd Lantké From Goualeor to Paterki-sera costes 3 From Paterki-sera to Quariqui-sera costes 10 There is a Bridg at Paterki-sera consisting of six wide Arches and the River you go over is call'd Quarinado From Quariki-sera to Dolpoura costes 6 At Dolpoura there is a great River which is call'd Chammelnadi to which there belongs a Ferry-Boat The River it self falls into the Gemena between Agra and Halabas From Dolpoura to Minasqui-sera costes 6 At Minasqui-sera there is a River which is call'd Jagounadi You pass it over a very long Bridg built of Stone the name whereof is Jaoulcapoul From
quantity of Linnen Calicuts which was all transported to Tuta before the Sands had stop'd up the mouth of the River but since that it is carry'd all to Agra and from Agra to Surat as is the greatest part of the Merchandize which is made at Lahor But in regard carriage is so dear very few Merchants traffick either to Multan or at Lahor and many of the Workmen have also deserted those places so that the Kings Revenues are very much diminished in those Provinces Multan is the place whither all the Banians come that trade into Persia where they follow the same Trade as the Jews and out-do them in Usury They have a particular Law among them which permits them to eat Fowl upon certain days in the year and not to have more than one Wife among two or three Brothers the eldest whereof is accounted the Father of the Children This City also breeds abundance of Dancers of both Sexes that spread themselves all over Persia. I come now to the Road from Candahar to Agra through Caboul and Lahor From Candahar to Charisasar costes 10 From Charisafar to Zelate costes 12 From Zelate to Betazy costes 8 From Betazy to Mezour costes 6 From Mezour to Carabat costes 17 From Carabat to Chakenicouze costes 17 From Candahar to Chakenicouze a Frontier Town of the Indies is a Country under the command of several Princes that acknowledg the Persian Emperor From Chakenieouze to Caboul costes 40 In all these forty Costes of way there are but three pitiful Villages where sometimes though very rarely you have Bread and Barley for your Horses but the surest way is to carry provision along with you In the Months of July and August there blows a hot Wind in those parts that takes away a mans breath and kills him upon the place being of the same nature with those Winds of which I have spoken in my Persian Relations that blow at certain seasons near Babylon and Moussul Caboul is a large City very well fortified and is the place where those of Usbek come every year to sell their Horses They reckon that there are bought and sold every year above sixty thousand They bring also out of Persia great numbers of Sheep and other Cattel it being the general Concourse of Persians Tartarians and Indians There is also Wine to be had but Provisions go off at a very good rate Before I go any farther I must take notice of one thing in particular concerning the people call'd Augans who inhabit from Candahar to Caboul toward the Mountains of Balch a sturdy sort of people and great Robbers in the night-time It is the custom of the Indians to cleanse and scrape their tongues every morning with a crooked piece of a root which causes them to void a great quantity of Flegm and Rhume and provokes vomiting Now though those people that inhabit the Frontiers of Persia and India practice the same thing nevertheless they vomit very little in the morning but when they come to eat as soon as they have swallowed two or three bits their lungs begin to swell and they are constrain'd to go forth and vomit after which they return again to their Victuals with a very good appetite Should they not do so they would not live above thirty years and besides they would be troubl'd with the Dropsy From Caboul to Bariabe costes 19 From Bariabe to Nimela costes 17 From Nimela to Aliboua costes 19 From Aliboua to Taka costes 17 From Taka to Kiemri costes 6 From Kiemri to Chaour costes 14 From Chaour to Novechaar costes 14 From Novechaar to Atek costes 19 Atek is a City situated upon a point of Land where two Rivers meet together 'T is one of the best and strongest Garrisons the Great Mogul has into which there is no stranger permitted to enter without a Passport from the King Father Roux the Jesuit and his Companion going this way to Ispahan and not having the King's Passport were forc'd to return back to Lahor where they embark'd upon the River for Scimdi from whence they past into Persia. From Atek to Calapane costes 16 From Calapane to Roupate costes 16 From Roupate to Toulapeca costes 16 From Toulapeca to Keraly costes 19 From Keraly to Zerabad costes 16 From Zerabad to Imiabad costes 18 From Imiabad to Lahor costes 18 Lahor is the Metropolis of a Kingdom built upon one of the five Rivers that descend from the Mountains of the North to swell the River Indus and give the name of Peniab to all the Region which they water This River at this time flows not within a league of the Town being subject to change its Channel and many times does very great mischief to the adjoyning Fields through the rapid deluges which it makes The City is large and extends it self above a league in length But the greatest part of the Houses which are higher than those of Agra and Deli fall to ruine by reason of the excessive rains that have overflowed a great number of them The King's Palace is an indifferent fair one and is not as formerly it was upon the River which is fall'n off above a quarter of a league from it There is Wine to be had at Lahor I must observe by the by that after you have past Lahor and the Kingdom of Kakemir that lies upon it toward the North none of their Women have any hair upon any part of their bodies and the Men but very little upon their chins From Lahor to Menat-kan costes 12 From Menat-kan to Faty-abad costes 15 From Faty-abad to Sera-dakan costes 15 From Sera-dakan to Sera-balour costes 15 From Sera-balour to Sera-dourai costes 12 From Sera-dourai to Serinde costes 17 From Serinde to Sera-Mogoul costes 15 From Sera-Mogoul to Sera-Chabas costes 14 From Sera-Chabas to Dirauril costes 17 From Dirauril to Sera-Crindal costes 14 From Sera-Crindal to Guienaour costes 21 From Guienaour to Dehly costes 24 Before you go any farther you are to take notice that all the way from Lahor to Dehly and from Dehly to Agra is a continual Walk set on both sides with fair Trees an object most pleasing to the sight But in some places the Trees are decaid and there is no care taken to Plant others in their stead Dehly is a great City near the River Gemma which runs from the North to the South afterwards from the West to the East and aftaer it has past by Agra and Kadione empties it self into the Ganges After Cha jaehan had built the new City of Gehanabad which he call'd by his own Name and where he chose rather to keep his Court than at Agra because the Climate is more temperate Dehly is almost come to ruine and indeed is nothing but an heap of Rubbish there being no other Houses remaining but only for poor people The Streets are narrow and the Houses of Bambouc as over all the rest of the Indies Neither are there above three or four Lords of the Court that reside at Dehly where
wherein the Nich is made which is on that side where they say their Prayers is an entire Rock of such a prodigious bulk that it was five years before five or six-hunder'd men continually employ'd could hew it out of its place They were forc'd also to rowl it along upon an Engine with wheels upon which they brought it to the Pagod and several affirm'd to me that there were fourteen-hunder'd Oxen to drawit I will tell you hereafter the reason it remains imperfect For had it been finish'd in all reason it had excell'd all the boldest Structures of Asia On the other side of the City as you go to Maslipatan there are two great Lakes being each about a league in compass wherein there ride several Pinks richly adorn'd for the King's Pleasure and upon the Banks are several fair Houses that belong to the Principal Lords of the Court. Upon three sides of the City stands a very fair Mosquee wherein are the Tombs of the Kings of Golconda and about four in the afternoon there is a Dole of Bread and Pilau to all the Poor that come If you would see any thing that is rare you must go to view these Tombs upon a festival-Festival-day For then from morning till night they are hung with rich Tapestry As for the Government and Policy which is observ'd in this City In the first place when a Stranger comes to the Gates they search him exactly to see if he have any Salt or Tobacco about him for those Commodities bring the King his greatest Revenue Sometimes a Stranger shall wait a day or two before he shall have leave to enter For a Souldier first gives notice to the Officer that commands the Guard and then he sends to the Deroga to know what he shall do Now because it many times happens that the Deroga is busy or gone to take a walk out of the City or else for that sometimes the Souldier himself pretends he cannot find the Deroga only to create himself more errands to get the more Money a Stranger is forc'd to endure all this delay sometimes as I have said before for a day or two When the King sits to do Justice I observe that he comes into the Balcone that looks into the Piazza and all that have business stand below just against the place where the King sits Between the People and the Walls of the Palace are fix'd in the ground three rows of Poles about the length of an Half-Pike to the ends whereof they tye certain ropes a-cross one upon another Nor is any person whatsoever permitted to pass beyond those bounds unless he be call'd This Bar which is never set up but when the King sits in Judgment runs along the whole bredth of the Piazza and just against the Balcone there is a Bar to open to let in those that are call'd Then two men that each of them hold a Cord by the end extended all the bredth of the passage have nothing to do but to let fall the Cord for any person that is call'd to step over it A Secretary of State sits below under the Balcone to receive all Petitions and when he has five or six together he puts them in a Bag and then an Eunuch who stands in the Balcone neer the King lets down a string to which the Bag being ti'd he draws it up and presents it to his Majesty Every Munday the chiefest of the Nobility mount the Guard every one in their turn and are never reliev'd till at the eight days end There are some of these Lords that have five or six thousand men under their command and they lye encamp'd in their Tents round about the City When they mount the Guard every one goes from his own Habitation to the Rendevouz but when they are reliev'd they march in good order over the Bridg thence through the long Street into the Piazza where they draw up before the Balcone In the first place march ten or twelve Elephants more or less according to the quality of the Captain of the Guard There are some of these Elephants that carry Cages which in some sort resemble the Body of a little Coach there are others that have but one man to guide them and another in the Cage who carries a Banner After the Elephants follow the Camels by two and two sometimes to the number of thirty or forty Every Camel carries a kind of Packsaddle upon which is fasten'd a little Culverine which a certain Engineer clad in a skin from head to foot and sitting upon the Crupper of the Camel with a lighted Match in his hand dextrously manages from one side to another before the Balcone where the King sits After them come the Coaches attended by the Domestick Servants of the Commander Next to them follow the lead-Horses and then the Lord appears to whom all this Equipage belongs attended by ten or twelve Curtisans that stay for him at the end of the Bridg and skip and dance before him to the Piazza Behind him the Cavalry and Infantry march in good order Which being a shew wherein there was much of delight and state all the while I staid at Bagnabar which was about four Months I had the divertisement to see them out of my Lodging in the great Street every week as they march'd by The Souldiers wear no other Clothes than only three or four ells of Calicut with which they cover half their Bodies behind and before They wear their hair very long and tie it up in a knot upon the top of the crown like the women who have no other Headgear than only a piece of Linnen with three corners one that comes to the middle of the head and the other two which they tie under their chins The Souldiers do not wear Hangers or Scimitars like the Persians but broad Swords like the Switzers as well for a thrust as a blow which they hang in a Girdle The Barrels of their Muskets are stronger than ours and much neater for their Iron is better and not so subject to break Their Cavalry carry Bows and Arrows a Buckler and a Battel-Ax an Headpiece and a Jacket of Mail that hangs down from the Headpiece over their Shoulders There are so great a number of common Women as well in the City as in the Suburbs and in the Fortress which is like another City that there are generally above twenty thousand set down in the Deroga's Book without which licence it is not lawful for any Woman to profess the Trade They pay no tribute to the King only they are oblig'd to come a certain number of them with their Governess and their Musick every Friday and present themselves before the Balcone If the King be there they dance before him if he intend not to come an Eunuch comes into the Balcone and makes them a sign to retire In the cool of the evening they stand at the doors of their Houses which are for the most part little Huts and when night
presented him at my arrival This Pistol the French-Consul at Aleppo gave me the fellow of it being unhappily lost for else the Bair had been presented by the French-Nation to the Basha who might then have boasted himself the Master of the fairest and best-made pair of Pistols in all Asia The Vice-Roy admits no person whatever no not his Children to sit at his Table But there is a little partition in the Dining-room where there is a Cloath laid for the Principal Officers as is usual in the Courts of the German-Princes The next day I went to wait upon the Arch-Bishop and the next day after I design'd to have visited the Inquisition but I understood by one of his Gentlemen that he was busy writing into Portugal there being two Ships ready to weigh Anchon that only staid for his dispatches After the Ships were set sail he sent the same Gentleman to tell me that he expected me at the Inquisition-House about two or three in the afternoon I fail'd not to go thither at the time prefix'd When I came a Page brought me into a large Hall where after I had walk'd a quarter of an hour an Officer came and carri'd me into the Chamber where the Inquisitor was After I had past through two Galleries and some Chambers I enter'd into a little Chamber where the Inquisitor sat at the end of a great Table like a Billiard-Table which as well as the Chairs and Stools in the Chamber was cover'd with green Cloath such as is carri'd out of England He told me I was welcome and after a Complement or two he ask'd me what Religion I was of I answer'd him of the Protestant Religion He ask'd me then if my Father and Mother were of the same Religion and after I had satisfi'd him that they were so He told me again I was welcome calling out at the same time for some other persons to enter Thereupon the Hangings being held up there came in ten or twelve persons out of another room hard-by The first of the Train were two Austin-Friars follow'd by two Dominicans two barefoot-Carmelites and some other of the Clergy whom the Inquisitor told who I was and assur'd them I had brought no prohibited Books for indeed knowing their orders I had left my Bible at Mingrela We discours'd about two hours of several things but particularly of my Travels the whole Company testifying their desire to hear me make some repetitions Three days after the Inquisitor sent for me to dine with him at a fair House about half a league from the City which belongs to the Barefoot-Carmelites It is one of the loveliest Structures in all the Indies and I will tell you in short how the Carmelites came by it There was a Gentleman in Goa whose Father and Grandfather had got great Estates by Merchandizing and he it was that built this House which might well have past for a most noble Palace He had no mind to Marry but being altogether addicted to his devotions he very much frequented the Austin-Friars to whom he shew'd himself so affectionate that he made his Will wherein he gave them all his Estate provided they would bury him on the right-side of the High-Altar where he intended a sumptuous Monument Now according to the common report this Gentleman was a Leaper which some jealous persons endeavour'd to make the World believe seeing he had given away all his Estate to the Austin-Friars Thereupon they told him that the ground on the right-hand of the High-Altar was a place only fit for a Vice-Roy and that a leaprous person was not to be laid there which was the opinion of the generality of the people and of a good part of the Austin-Friars themselves Thereupon some of the Fathers of the Covent coming to speak with the Gentleman on purpose to perswade him to choose some other place in the Church he was so offended at the proposal that he never went more to the Austin-Friars but always went to perform his devotions among the Carmelites who receiv'd him with open arms and accepted the conditions which the other had refus'd Nor did he live long after he had interested himself with that Order so that the Carmelites having magnificently buri'd him enjoy'd all his Estate with this same House where we were splendidly entertain'd with Musick all the time of Dinner I staid at Goa from the twenty-first of January till the eleventh of March departing thence that very day in the evening after I had taken leave of the Vice-Roy I begg'd leave also of the Vice-Roy for a French-Gentleman whose name was Belloy to go along with me which was granted me but through the imprudence of that Gentleman who did not tell me the reason of his coming to Goa he had like to have been taken from me again and it was an even-lay that we had not been both carri'd to the Inquisition This Gentleman had left the place of his Nativity to travel over Holland where having run himself in debt and finding no person that would lend him any Money he resolv'd to go for India Thereupon he listed himself as a private Souldier upon the accompt of the Holland-Company and came to Batavia at the same time that the Hollanders made War against the Portuguezes in Ceylan Being arriv'd they sent him away among the recruits which were sent into that Island and the Holland-General seeing such a reinforcement of stout men commanded by a French-Captain whose name was St. Amant a person of great courage and experience he resolv'd to besiege Negombe a considerable Fort in the Island of Ceylan They made two assaults wherein the French-men behav'd themselves valiantly especially St. Amant and John de Rose who were both wounded The General of the Dutch seeing them to be two such men of courage made a promise that if Negombe were taken one of them two should be Governor The place was taken and the General kept his word with St. Amant but the News being carri'd to Batavia a young Gentleman of kin to the General and but newly arriv'd out of Holland obtain'd to be Governor of Negombe to the prejudice of St. Amant and came with an order from the Council at Batavia to displace him St. Amant incens'd at such ill-usage inveigles to his Party a matter of fifteen or twenty most part French-Souldiers among whom were Monsieur Belloy Marests and John de Rose and revolts to the Portuguezes The Portugals encourag'd by the reinforcement of such a stout though small number of men storm'd Negombe again and took it at the second assault At that time was Don Philip de Mascaregnas Governor of Ceylan and all the places belonging to it under the jurisdiction of the Portugals He liv'd also at the City of Colombo and then it was that having receiv'd Letters from Goa that the Vice-Roy was dead and that the Council and all the Nobility desir'd him to come and succeed in his place he resolv'd to see St. Amant and his
pleasing him he had desir'd my assistance in his return for Europe Three or four days after I bought him an Oxe to carry him to Surat and I gave him a Servant to assist him together with a Letter to Father Zenon a Capuchin wherein I desir'd him to speak to my Broker to pay him ten Crowns a month for his subsistence and to desire of the English President to embark him for Europe with the first opportunity But it fell out contrary to my intentions for Father Zenon carri'd him back again along with him to Goa where he had some business to do for Father Ephraim his Companion of whom I shall speak in the next Chapter Father Zenon without doubt believ'd that Du Belloy making his appearance to the Inquisition and desiring his pardon might have easily obtain'd it 'T is very true he did obtain it but it was after he had been two years in the Inquisition from which he was not discharg'd but with a Sulphur'd Shirt with a St. Andrews Cross upon his Stomack There was with him another Gentleman call'd Lewis de Bar upon the Seine who was us'd in the same manner and they always put them to accompany those who were put to death The Sieur Du Belloy did very ill to return to Goa and worse to appear afterwards again at Mingela where the Hollanders who understanding he had formerly revolted out of their service by the intelligence they receiv'd from their Commander at Surat seiz'd his person and sent him away in a Ship that was going for Batavia They pretended that they sent him to the General of the Company to do with him as he should think fitting But I am in part assur'd that as soon as the Vessel was out at Sea they put the poor Gentleman into a Sack and threw him into the Sea This was the end of the Sieur Du Belloy As for Sieur des Marests he was a Gentleman born in the Dauphinate near to Loriol who having kill'd his Adversary in a Duel fled into Poland where he so far signaliz'd himself that he won the esteem and affection of the General of the Polonian Army At that time the Grand Seignior kept in the Prison of the Seven Towers at Constantinople two Noble Polonians whereupon the Polonian General observing the courage and address of this Des Marests who was a daring Fellow and a good Engineer besides made a proposal to him to go to Constantinople and to endeavour if he could by any means in the world to set those Princes at liberty Des Marests willingly accepted the employment and without doubt he had succeeded in his design had he not been discovered by some Turks who accus'd him for having been too circumspect in viewing the seven Towers seeing him with a Chalk Pencil in his hand ready to take the draught thereof which seem'd to tend to no good design This had been enough to have ruin'd the Gentleman had not Monsieur de Cesy the French Ambassadour stifl'd the further examination of the business by some present which in Turky is the most sovereign remedy upon all accidents of danger telling the Visier that he was only a French Gentleman that travel'd for his pleasure and one that was going for Persia with the first opportunity However it was not Marests design at that time to go very far for he intended to have return'd into Poland so soon as he had us'd his utmost endeavours to set the Princes at liberty but for his own safety it behov'd him to give it out that he was gone to Persia and at length he was constrain'd to go thither indeed As for the Grand Seignior he had resolv'd never to set the two Noblemen at liberty But at length they were so fortunate as to gain the love of a young Turk who was the Son of the Captain of the Seven Towers with whom the Father usually trusted the Keys to open and shut the Gates of the Prison The night appointed for their flight he made as if he had shut some doors the Padlocks whereof he left all open But he durst not do so by the two first Gates near one of which the Captain with a strong Guard lay for fear of being discover'd The young man who had entirely devoted himself to serve the Princes having foreseen this difficulty before had bethought himself of Rope-Ladders to get over the two Walls to which purpose it was necessary to have a correspondence within and without Finding therefore that because the utmost of severity was not us'd toward those Princes they had the liberty to receive several Dishes of Meat from the French Ambassadors Kitchin the Clerk of the Kitchin was made of the plot who thereupon sent them in several Cords in Pasties whereof they made Ladders The business succeeded so well that the escape was made and the young Turk fled with the Polonian Lords into Poland where he turn'd Christian and receiv'd ample rewards both in Employments and Money The same gratitude proportionably was observ'd toward those who had contributed toward the liberty of the Princes who amply acknowledg'd the services which they had receiv'd from every one of them In the mean time the Sieur Des Marests arrives at Ispahan and addressing himself to the Capuchin Fryars they brought him to my Lodging where he had the freedom of my Table and a Chamber He staid some time at Ispahan during which he got acquainted with the English and Hollanders who had a great esteem for him finding him to be a person of merit But it happen'd one day that his curiosity putting him upon a bold attempt had like to have been the ruine of him and all the Franks in Ispahan Near the Inn where we lodg'd there was a large Bath where the men and women by turns take their times to come and bath themselves and where the Queen of Visapour during her stay at Ispahan as she return'd home to Mecca delighted to go and prattle with the French mens wives The Sieur Des Marests having a passionate desire to see what the women did satisfi'd his curiosity by means of a cranny in the Arch of the Vault which he had observ'd when he went thither for having found out a way without side to get up to that Arch through a blind hole that was next to the Inn where we lay the Arch being flat as I have describ'd them in my relations of Persia and the Seraglio he laid himself upon his belly and saw through the cranny what he so much long'd to behold He was at this sport some ten or twelve times and not being able to contain himself he told me one day what he had done I bid him have a care of going there any more for fear of ruining himself and all the French men in the City But he contrary to my advice went thither two or three times after that till at length he was discover'd by one of the women of the Bath that took care of the Linnen and dry
serves for the Priests Kitchin On the South-side there is a large Platform cut in the Mountain where there is a pleasing shade of many fair Trees and several Wells digg'd in the ground Pilgrims come far and near to this Pagod and if they be poor the Priests relieve them with what they receive from the rich that come there out of devotion The great Feast of this Pagod is in the month of October at which time there is a great concourse of people from all parts While we were there there was a Woman that had not stirr'd out of the Pagod for three days together and her prayer to the Idol was since she had lost her Husband to know what she should do to bring up her Children Thereupon asking one of the Priests wherefore she had no answer or whether she was to have any answer or no he told me that she must wait the pleasure of their God and that then he would give her an answer to what she expected Upon this I mistrusted some cheat and to discover it I resolv'd to go into the Pagod when all the Priests were absent at Dinner there being only one that stood at the Gate whom I sent to fetch me some water at a Fountain two or three Musket-shot from the place During that time I went in and the Woman hearing me redoubl'd her cries for there being no light in the Pagod but what comes in at the door it is very dark I felt my way to the Idol and by the glimmering light observ'd an hole behind the Idol I could not do this so quickly but that the Priest return'd before I had done He curst me for prophaning his Temple as he call'd it But we became suddenly very good friends by the mediation of two Roupies which I put into his hands whereupon he presently presented me with some of his Betlé The one and thirtieth we departed from Bezouart and past the River which runs to the Mine of Gani or Coulour It was then neer half a league broad by reason of the great rains which had fall'n continually for eight or nine days together After we had travell'd three leagues on the other side of the River we came to a great Pagod built upon a large Platform with an ascent of 15 or 20 steps Within it stood the Figure of a Cow all of very black-Marble and a number of deformed Idols four or five-foot-high some having many heads others many hands and legs and the most ugly are most ador'd and receive most Offerings A quarter of a league from this Pagod is a large Town but we travell'd three leagues farther and came to lie at another Town call'd Kab-Kali neer to which there is a small Pagod wherein there stand five or six Idols of Marble very well-made The first of August we came to a great City call'd Condevir with a double-Moat pav'd at the bottom with Free-stone The way to this Town is clos'd on each side with strong Walls and at such and such distances are built certain round Towers of little or no defence This City toward the East stretches out to a Mountain about a league in compass and surrounded with Walls At the distance of every 150 paces there is as it were an half-Moon and within the Walls are three Fortresses The second we travell'd six leagues and lay at a Village call'd Copenour The third day after we had travell'd eight leagues we came to Adanquige a very fair Town where there is a very large Pagod with abundance of Chambers which were built for the Priests but are now gone to ruine There are also in the Pagod certain Idols but very much maim'd which the people however very superstitiously adore The fourth we travell'd eight leagues and came to lie at the Town of Nosdrepar Half a league on this side there is a great River but at that time it had but little water in it by reason of the drowth The fifth after eight leagues journey we lay at Condecour The sixth we travell'd seven hours and lay at a Village call'd Dakije The seventh after three leagues journey we came to Nelour where there are many Pagods and having cross'd a great River a quarter of a league farther we travell'd six leagues and came to Gandaron The eighth after a journey of eight hours we lay at Serepelé a small Village The ninth we travell'd nine leagues and lay at a good Town call'd Ponter The tenth we travell'd eleven hours and lay at Senepgond another good Town The eleventh we went no farther than Palicat which is but four leagues from Senepgond and of those four leagues we travell'd above one in the Sea up to the Saddles of our Horses in water There is another way but it is the farther about by two or three leagues Palicat is a Fort that belongs to the Hollanders that live upon the Coast of Coromandel and where they have their chief Factory where lives also the chief Intendent over all the rest that are in the Territories of the King of Golconda There are usually within the Fort 200 Souldiers or thereabouts besides several Merchants that live there upon the account of Trade and several others who having serv'd the Company according to their agreement retire to that place There also dwell some of the Natives of the Countrey so that Palicat is now as it were a little Town Between the Town and the Castle there is a large distance of ground lest the Fort should be annoid by shot from the Town The Bastions are well-stor'd with good Guns And the Sea comes up to the very Wall of it but there is no Haven only a Road. We staid in the Town till the next day in the evening where we observ'd that when the Inhabitants fetch their water to drink they stay till the Sea is quite out and then digging holes in the Sand as neer the Sea as they can they meet with fresh-water The twelth we departed from Calicat and the next morning about ten of the clock we came to Madrespatan otherwise call'd Fort St. George which belongs to the English having travell'd not above seven or eight leagues that day We lay at the Covent of Capuchins at what time Father Ephraim and Father Zenon were both there The fifteenth we went to St. Thomas's Town to see the Austin-Friars and the Jesuits Church in the first whereof is an Iron-lance wherewith they say that St. Thomas was martyr'd The two and twentieth in the morning we departed from Madrespatan and after a journey of five leagues we arriv'd at a large Town call'd Serravaron The three and twentieth after 7 leagues travel we came to Oudecot the whole days journey being over a flat sandy Countrey On each side there are only Copses of Bambou's that grow very high Some of these Copses are so thick that it is impossible for a man to get into them but they are pester'd with prodigious numbers of Apes Those that breed in the Copses upon one side
at a great distance too which made them believe he was dead For they are oblig'd by Custom to shew themselves to the people three times in a week or in fifteen days at most Cha-Jehan had six Children four Sons and two Daughters The Name of the eldest was Dara-Cha the second was call'd Sultan Sujah the third Aureng-zeb and the fourth Morad-Bakche The eldest of his two Daughters was call'd Begum-Saheb and the name of the second was Rauchenara Begum Cha-jehan lov'd all his four Sons alike and had made them Governours or Vice-Roys of four of his principal Provinces or Kingdoms Dara-Cha who was the eldest stay'd with his Father in Dehly and had the Government of the Kingdom of Sandi into which he put a Deputy Sultan Sujah had for his share the Government of Bengala Aureng-zeb was Vice-Roy of the Kingdom of Decan and Morad-Bakche of the Kingdom of Guzerat But though Cha-jehan endeavour'd to give equal content to his four Sons their Ambition was not satisfi'd with this division but ruin'd all the good designs which so kind a Father had lay'd to preserve peace among his Children Cha-jehan being thus sick and retir'd into the Womens quarter without shewing himself for many days the report ran that he was dead and that Dara-Cha conceal'd his death to gain time to provide for himself and to secure the Empire True it is that the King believing he should dye commanded Dara-Cha to call together all the Omrahs or Lords and to seat himself upon the Throne which belong'd to him as the eldest of his Brothers He also testifi'd the desire he had to see him quietly setled in the peaceable possession of the Empire And this intention of his was look'd upon as the more just in regard the other three Brothers had been for some time observ'd to have less respect for their Father than Dara-Cha Dara-Cha who honour'd and respected the King with a real tenderness made answer to the King that he desir'd of Heaven nothing more than the preservation of his Majesties life and that so long as Heaven should continue that preservation he should take it to be a greater honour to continue himself a Subject than to ascend the Throne And indeed he was never absent from his Father that he might be the better able to serve him in his sickness and because he would be present upon all occasions he lay by his Fathers Bed-side upon a Tapestry spread upon the ground During the false report of the death of Cha-jehan his three other Sons immediately rebell'd every one laying claim to their Fathers Crown Morat-Bakche the youngest who had the Government of Guzerat sent away Forces immediately to besiege Surat the most considerable Port and most frequented of any other all over India The City made no resistance for the Walls are very weak and broken down in several places But they defended the Cittadel where the Treasure was very stoutly though the young Ambitious Prince did all he could to make himself Master of it Chabas-Kan one of his Eunuchs who was General of his Army an industrious and active person and who carri'd on the Siege with all the experience of an old Captain when he saw he could not carry the Castle by main force caus'd it to be undermin'd in two places by the assistance of an European Engineer which took effect so that upon the twenty-ninth of December 1659 he threw down a good part of the Walls and fill'd up the Moat which very much terrifi'd the besieg'd But they presently recover'd their courage and though they were but a small number they defended themselves for above forty days to the great dammage and slaughter of Morat-Bakche's Army Chabas-Kan provok'd at such a vigorous resistance sought for all the Wives and Children Parents and Kindred of the Canoneers that were within the Castle to place them at the head of his men when they made their approaches He also sent one of the Brothers of the Governor of the place to offer him advantageous conditions But the Governor being a very loyal person and uncertain of the Kings death rejected all his offers The Eunuch perceiving the Resolution of the Governour threaten'd the besieged to kill all their Wives and Children Parents and Kindred if they did not surrender the place the next day But neither did any of those considerations prevail till at length the breach being made wider and the number of defendants decreasing the Governor surrender'd upon honourable conditions which were punctually perform'd by Chabas-Kan who seiz'd upon all the Treasure and carried it to Amadabat where Morat-Bakche was busily employ'd in squeezing the people to get Money The news of the taking Surat being brought to this Prince he presently provided himself a Throne and sitting upon it on the day which was appointed for the Ceremony he caus'd himself to be declared King not only of Guzerat but of all the Dominions of Cha-jehan his Father At the same time he also coin'd Money and sent new Governors into all the Cities But his tottering Throne not being well fix'd fell soon to the Ground and the youngest of all the Brothers for having usurp'd a Scepter that no ways appertain'd to him was confin'd to a severe imprisonment Prince Dara-Cha fain would have reliev'd Surat but it was impossible For besides that he was busied in the assistance of his Father the King his second Brother Sultan-Sujah more powerful than Morat-Bakche found him far more work to do He was already advanc'd into the Kingdom of Lahor having absolutely reduc'd the Kingdom of Bengala All that Dara-Cha could do was to send Soliman Checour his eldest Son with an Army against Sultan Sujah The young Prince having defeated his Uncle and driven him back into Bengala the Frontiers whereof he secur'd with good Garrisons return'd to Dara-Cha his Father In the mean time Morat-Bakche acknowledg'd for King in the Kingdom of Guzerat bends all his Force and Counsels to make himself Emperor of the Indies to destroy his Brothers and to fix his Throne either in Agra or Jehanabat Whiles these things pass'd Aureng-zeb as ambitious but more crafty than his Brothers lets them alone to kindle the first Fires and conceals his own designs which afterwards appear'd so much to the damage of the rest At first he feign'd to lay no claim to the Empire but liv'd a private life like a Dervich or Religious Hermit And the better to act his part he declar'd to his younger Brother Morat-Bakche whom he saw to be so ambitious how willing he should be to assist him in his designs telling him that because he merited the Empire by his Valour he would aid him with his Money and his Forces to overthrow Dara-Cha who only stood in his way The young Prince blinded with the hopes of his good Fortune easily believ'd Aureng-zeb And so joining Forces together he advances towards Agra to make himself Master of that City Dara-Cha marches to meet them but the Battel was as imprudently manag'd
above the Town up the River But no person must enter into this Pagod unless it be the King and his Priests As for the people so soon as they see the Door op'n they must presently fall upon their faces to the Earth Then the King appears upon the River with two hundred Gallies of a prodigious length four hundred Rowers belonging to every one of the Gallies most of them being guilded and carv'd very richly Now in regard this second appearance of the King is in the month of November when the waters begin to abate the Priests make the people believe that none but the King can stop the course of the waters by his Prayers and by his Offerings to this Pagod And they are so vain as to think that the King cuts the waters with his Sabra or Skain thereby commanding it to retire back into the Sea The King also goes but incognito to a Pagod in an Island where the Hollanders have a Factory There is at the entry thereof an Idol sitting cross-leg'd with one hand upon his knee and the other arm akimbo It is above sixty foot high and round about this Idol are about three hundred others of several sorts and sizes All these Idols are guilt And indeed there are a prodigious number of Pagods in this Countrey for every rich Siamer causes one to be built in memory of himself Those Pagods have Steeples and Bells and the Walls within are painted and guilded but the Windows are so narrow that they give but a very dim light The two Pagods to which the King goes publickly are adorn'd with several tall Pyramids well guilded And to that in the Hollanders Island there belongs a Cloyster which is a very neat Structure In the middle of the Pagod is a fair Chappel all guilded within side where they find a Lamb and three Wax Candles continually burning before the Altar which is all over cover'd with Idols some of massie Gold others of Copper guilt In the Pagod in the midst of the Town and one in of those to which the King goes once a year there are above four thousand Idols and for that which is six Leagues from Siam it is surrounded with Pyramids whose beauty makes the industry of that Nation to be admir'd When the King appears all the Doors and Windows of the Houses must be shut and all the people prostrate themselves upon the ground not daring to lift up their eyes And because no person is to be in a higher place than the King they that are within doors are bound to keep their lowest Rooms When he cuts his hair one of his Wives performs that office for he will not suffer a Barber to come near him This Prince has a passionate kindness for his Elephants which he looks upon as his Favourites and the Ornaments of his Kingdom If there be any of them that fall sick the Lords of the Court are mighty careful to please their Soveraign and if they happ'n to dye they are buried with the same Funeral Pomp as the Nobles of the Kingdom which are thus performed They set up a kind of Mausoleum or Tomb of Reeds cover'd with Paper in the midst whereof they lay as much sweet wood as the body weighs and after the Priests have mumbl'd certain Orisons they set it a-fire and burn it to ashes which the rich preserve in Gold or Silver Urns but the poor scatter in the wind As for offenders they never burn but bury them 'T is thought that in this Kingdom there are above two hundred Priests which they call Bonzes which are highly reverenc'd as well at Court as among the people The King himself has such a value for some of them as to humble himself before them This extraordinary respect makes them so proud that some of them have aspir'd to the Throne But when the King discovers any such design he puts them to death And one of them had his head lately struck off for his Ambition These Bonzes wear yellow with a little red Cloth about their Wasts like a Girdle Outwardly they are very modest and are never seen to be angry About four in the morning upon the tolling of their Bells they rise to their prayers which they repeat again toward evening There are some days in the year when they retire from all converse with men Some of them live by Alms others have Houses with good Revenues While they wear the Habit of Bonzes they must not marry for if they do they must lay their Habit aside They are generally very ignorant not knowing what they believe Yet they hold the transmigration of Souls into several Bodies They are forbidd to kill any Creature yet they will make no scruple to eat what others kill or that which dies of it self They say that the God of the Christians and theirs were Brothers but that theirs was the eldest If you ask them where their God is they say he vanish'd away and they know not where he is The chief strength of the Kingdom is their Infantry which is indifferent good the Soldiers are us'd to hardship going all quite naked except their private parts all the rest of their body looking as if it had been cupt is carv'd into several shapes of beasts and flowers When they have cut their skins and stanch'd the blood they rub the cut-work with such colours as they think most proper So that afar off you would think they were clad in some kind of flower'd Satin or other for the colours never rub out Their weapons are Bows and Arrows Pike and Musket and an Azagaya or Staff between five and six foot long with a long Iron Spike at the end which they very dextrously dart at the Enemy In the year 1665 there was at Siam a Neapolitan Jesuite who was call'd Father Thomas he caus'd the Town and the Kings Palace to be fortifi'd with very good Bulwarks according to Art for which reason the King gave him leave to live in the City where he has a House and a little Church CHAP. XIX Of the Kingdom of Macassar and the Embassadors which the Hollanders sent into China THE Kingdom of Macassar otherwise call'd the Isle of Celebes begins at the fifteenth Degree of Southern Latitude The heats are excessive all the day but the nights are temperate enough And for the Soil it is very fertile but the people have not the art of building The Capital City bears the name of the Kingdom and is situated upon the Sea The Port is free for the Vessels that bring great quantities of goods from the adjacent Islands pay no Customs The Islanders have a custom to poyson their Arrows and the most dangerous poyson which they use is the juice of certain Trees in the Island of Borneo which they will temper so as to work swift or slow as they please They hold that the King has only the secret Receit to take away the force of it who boasts that he has the most effectual poyson in
Pardo's in Diamonds gave order to two men which he had fee'd for the purpose that as soon as the Fathers had made their purchase he should give notice to the Officer of the Custom-House at Bicholi Bicholi is a great Town upon the Frontiers of those Lands that part the Kingdom of Visapour from the Territories of the Portugals there being no other way to pass the River which encompasses the Island where the City of Goa is built The Fathers believing that the Customer knew nothing of their purchase went into the Boat to go over the River but as soon as they were in they were strictly search'd and all their Diamonds confiscated To return to the King of Macassar you must know that the Jesuits once endeavour'd to convert him and perhaps they might have brought it to pass had they not neglected one proposal which he made them For at the same time that the Jesuits labour'd to bring him to Christianity the Mahumetans us'd all their endeavours to oblige him to stick to their Law The King willing to leave his Idolatry yet not knowing which part to take commanded the Mahumetans to send for two or three of their most able Moulla's or Doctors from Mecca and the Jesuits he order'd to send him as many of the most learned among them that he might be instructed in both Religions which they both promis'd to do But the Mahometans were more diligent then the Christians for in eight months they fetch'd from Mecca two learned Moulla's whereupon the King seeing that the Jesuits sent no body to him embrac'd the Mahumetan Law True it is that three years after there came two Portugal Jesuits but then it was too late The King of Macassar being thus become a Mahumetan the Prince his Brother was so mad at it that when the Mosquee which the King had caus'd to be built was finish'd he got into it one night and causing the throats of two Pigs to be cut he all besmear'd the walls of the new Mosquee and the place which was appointed for the Moulia to perform Divine Service with the blood so that the King was forc'd to pull down that and build another After which the Prince with some Idolatrous Lords stole out of the Island and never since appear'd at Court CHAP. XX. The Author pursues his Travels into the East and embarks at Mingrela for Batavia The danger he was in upon the Sea and his arrival in the Island of Ceylan I Departed from Mingrela a great Town in the Kingdom of Visapour eight Leagues from Goa the fourteenth of April 1648 and embark'd in a Dutch Vessel bound for Batavia The Ship had orders to touch at Bokanour to take in Rice Whereupon I went ashore with the Captain to obtain leave of the King to buy Rice We found him upon the shore where he had about a dozen Huts set up which were cover'd with Palm-leaves In his own Hut there was a piece of Persian Tapestry spread under him and there we saw five or six women some fanning him with Peacocks Feathers others giving him Betlé others filling him his Pipe of Tobacco The most considerable persons of the Country were in the other Huts and we counted about two hundred men that were upon the Guard arm'd only with Bows and Arrows They had also two Elephants among ' em 'T is very probable that his Palace was not far off and that he only came thither to take the fresh air There we were presented with Tari or Palm-wine but being new and not boil'd it caus'd the head-ach in all that drank it insomuch that we were two days before we could recover it I ask'd the reason how the Wine came to do us so much prejudice to which they answer'd me that it was the Planting of Pepper about the Palm-trees that gave such a strength to the Wine We were no sooner got aboard but a mighty tempest arose wherein the Ship men and goods had all like to have been cast away being near the shore but at length the wind changing we found our selves by break of day three or four Leagues at Sea having lost all our Anchors and at length came safe to Port in the Haven of Ponté de Galle the twelfth of May. I found nothing remarkable in that City there being nothing but the ruins made by the underminings and Canon-shot when the Hollanders besieg'd it and chas'd the Portugals from thence The Company allow'd ground to build upon to them that would inhabit there and land to till and had then rais'd two Bulwarks which commanded the Port. If they have finish'd the design which they undertook the place cannot but be very considerable The Hollanders before they took all the places which the Portugals had in the Island of Ceylan did believe that the trade of this Island would have brought them in vast sums could they but be sole Masters of it and perhaps their conjectures might have been true had they not broken their words with the King of Candy who is the King of the Country but breaking faith with him they lost themselves in all other places thereabouts The Hollanders had made an agreement with the King of Candy that he should be always ready with twenty thousand men to keep the passages that hinder the Portugals from bringing any succours from Colombo Negombe Manar or any other places which they possessed upon the Coast. In consideration whereof the Hollanders when they had taken Ponte Galle were to restore it to the King of Candy which they not performing the King sent to know why they did not give him possession of the Town to which they return'd answer that they were ready to do it provided he would defray the expences of the war But they knew that if he had had three Kingdoms more such as his own he could never have payd so great a sum I must confess indeed the Country is very poor for I do not believe that the King ever saw fifty thousand Crowns together in his life his trade being all in Cinnamon and Elephants As for his Cinnamon he has no profit of it since the Portugals coming into the East Indies And for his Elephants he makes but little of them for they take not above five or six in a year but they are more esteem'd than any other Country Elephants as being the most couragious in war One thing I will tell you hardly to be believ'd but that which is a certain truth which is that when any other King or Raja has one of these Elephants of Ceylan if they bring him among any other breed in any other place whatever so soon as the other Elephants behold the Ceylan Elephants by an instinct of nature they do him reverence laying their trunks upon the ground and raising them up again The King of Achen with whom the Hollanders also broke their word had more opportunity to be reveng'd upon them then the King of Candy For he deni'd them the transportation of Pepper
Every Kitchin has its Attagi-bachi that is to say its chief Director or Master-Cook And the Moutbak-Emin is the Intendant or Overseer who supplies the Kitchins with all that is necessary taking care also for the Tables of the Ambassadors according to the Orders he has receiv'd from the Grand Vizir The Halvagis are the Confectioners of whom I shall have occasion to speak more at large elsewhere They give also the same Name to those who serve the Grandees of the Seraglio and are permitted to go out of it and into it when they please The Baltagis are a robust sort of People imploy'd in the carrying of Burthens as Porters and Cleavers of Wood are amongst us Baltagi implies properly a Labouring Man who makes use of the Wedge The Hasteler-Agasi is the Overseer of the Infirmary who observes what comes in and what goes out and especially that there be no Wine brought in I shall have occasion also in my Relation to speak of two others to wit the Emirahour-bachi and the Ekmeggi-bachi who are two Officers belonging to the Sultan but have their Habitations out of the Seraglio The Emirahour-bachi is the great Gentleman-Usher who goes before the Grand Seignor when he appears in publick and in all Ceremonies The Ekmeggi-bachi is the Master-Baker who has the over-sight and gives direction for the Baking of all the Bread that is eaten in the Seraglio These two Imployments are not bestow'd on any of those who have their abode within the Seraglio but to Persons who live out of it but have the liberty of ingress into it egress out of it at any time To be short I shall have occasion to speak of the Caragi-bachi and of the Cham of the lesser Tartary and I have some curious Observations to make upon both of them The Caragi-bachi is the Chief of those who collect the Tributes and it is of him The Oeconomy of the Partizans or Collectors of publick Moneys as also of the Gemmerou-bachi or grand Farmer of the Customs and of the Bazarcan-bachi or Chief amongst the Merchants that the Grand Seignor makes use of to make Advancements when he wants Money and that there is not any in the Publick Treasury he being unwilling that they should meddle with the Secret Treasury They must of necessity find it out and it is no hard matter for them to do in regard that of all the Tributes Customs and other Impositions due to the Grand Seignor there is not any thing pay'd till the end of the Year and these Officers oblige Men to the payment thereof at the beginning of it All sorts of Persons what Religion soever they are of except the Mahumetan are oblig'd to pay the Tribute without any exception from the time of their settling in the Empire and having attain'd the sixteenth year of their Age. And this Tribute or Poll-Money amounts to five hundred and fifty old Aspers which neither rise nor fall but always keep at the same rate of eighty to a Piastro which in the French Money and consequently with little difference in ours amounts to five Crowns and 5 â— All other Christians who come into the Empire upon the score of Trade or Business though 't were but for one day are forc'd to pay at the first City where they arrive The forreign Greeks such as they from Muscovy or other places pay three hundred and fifty Aspers but the Armenians who come from Persia Georgia Mingrelia and other Countreys are tax'd but at three hundred As to the Christians whom they call Franguis they pay nothing and that has given much trouble to the Ambassadors of Europe especially to the French Ambassador there being more French that are Inhabitants in Turkey than there are of any other Nation And yet though the Turks make their Year to consist but of twelve Moons ours being near twelve and a half they make the Tributaries pay but for twelve Moons yet in requital and that nothing may be lost they make them pay that Tribute double every three and thirtieth year and are very frugal Husbands for the benefit and advantage of their Master There are but two Princes in the World that are known by the Name of Cham to The policy of the Port to keep the Cham of the lesser Tartary quiet wit the Emperour of great Tartary and the King of the little Tartary a Vassal to the Ottoman Monarchs I conceive my self oblig'd to give the Reader some information of the present condition of the latter When the Cham of the lesser Tartary enters upon the Government he comes to take his Oath of Fidelity to the Grand Seignor and the Turks look upon him no otherwise than as a Governour of a Province or at most but as a Vassal-Prince But those of his own Countrey the Muscovites the Poles the Georgians the Mingrelians and the other Nations bordering upon him treat him as a King when they write to him The Grand Seignor uses much Policy towards the Cham lest he should revolt from him and render himself more powerful than he is by Alliances with the neighbouring Princes For it is to be observ'd That the lesser Tartary whereof the City Cassa near the Cimerian Streight is the Metropolis is not a Countrey subdu'd by the Arms of the Ottomans The ancient Kings of it did only put themselves under the Grand Seigner's protection who receiv'd them into it upon condition that when the Father dy'd his Son or the next of kin his Successor was not to enter upon the Government till he had receiv'd the Investiture from the Port and taken the Oath of Fidelity to the Grand Seignor obliging himself to come to him upon the first Orders to that purpose The Grand Seignor promis'd in requital that he would not establish any other than what were of their race to command in the lesser Tartary And whereas there are two branches of that Family he keeps one of them always banish'd in the Island of Rhodes while the other governs But if after fifteen or twenty years there should be any suspition of this latter Family's having a design to render it self absolute he sends for the Cham and his Children when he has any and sending them to Rhodes brings thence him who was there in exile and orders him to reign in his turn for some years The form of his Oath you will find in the sixth Chapter of my Relation where I speak of the Hall of Audience and the manner in which that Prince is there receiv'd I have only now somewhat to say of the Moufti the Cadilesquer and the Cadis The principal Dignities of those who study the Law and the others relating to the Law which I shall do in few words Only let it be here observ'd in the general That according to the perswasion of the Turks the Civil Laws are part of their Religion and that having been given them by their Prophet they are deriv'd from God and require an implicite obedience 'T is
in the way to Hali's Sepulchre Sect take the way of Babylon upon this score that it brings them at the same time to the Sepulchre of their Prophet Hali which is but eight days Journey distant from it This is the most wretched place of all the places upon earth and affords no water but the most corrupted water which is drawn out of certain Pits and that of a Canal which Schach-Abas caus'd to be brought thither from the Euphrates but which is now quite out of repair Whoever expects to drink good water there must bring it along with him from other places from other places five or six days Journey distant from the other And yet that false Prophet imposes on those who have such a Devotion for him not only the inconveniences of coming so far off but also those of being in a fair way to perish by thirst and hardship of lodging The last time it was my fortune to pass through the Desarts I came to that detestable place upon this occasion that meeting with a Courrier who was come from Babylon with two Arabians whom he had in his Company he gave us intelligence that the Grand Seignor's Forces which had then newly taken Babylon were upon their march back in little Detachments and that there was no question to be made but they would seize on our Camels and Baggage Which advertisements oblig'd us to take our course more to the South and to get further into the Desert where we spent sixty and five days in the crossing of it to avoid meeting with those Forces As for the Princes of Arabia they have no great Journey to make because they are the next neighbours to Mahomet's Sepulchre The Mahumetans of Europe come to Aleppo and there joyn the Caravan and those of Africa pass to Grand Cairo and meet in the Desarts with the same Caravan of A Miraculous Canal of water of the length of 18 days journey Aleppo at eighteen days journey from Medina where there is a water which goes by a Canal quite to that City all the way of those eighteen days journey They have it by Tradition That that water was found by their Prophet Mahomet as he cross'd the Desert with his Army ready to dy for thirst and that going to drink of it first of any there issued a Voice to him out of the Water which said to him Prophet thou wilt find it bitter That he made the Voice this Answer Let us all drink of it for I know it is sweet and I would to God that we could always find as good That thereupon the Voice replying the second time said to him Prophet Command and I will follow thee And that as soon as he had spoken the Water made a Canal under ground and follow'd him quite to Medina From Damas Hierusalem and Cairo they account forty days Journey to Medina and it is at the two and twentieth day's journey that they find that water 'T is partly to see that miraculous Water which had been sweetned by the Prophet that there goes into those places so great a concourse of People of so many different Nations from all parts of the World in as much as there is no Mahumetan let him be at ever so great a distance and but tolerably in a condition of health and supply'd with the external accommodations of fortune who does not think himself oblig'd to go once in his life to Mecha in person or to send some other in his stead After the Pilgrims have continu'd certain daies at Medina they go to Gebel-Araffa that is to say the place where Adam found Eve his Wife five hundred years after God had created her It is a City in the Mountains at the distance of Two Dayes Journey from Medina and at one from Emena another City which is half way between both Assoon as the Pilgrims are come thither all those who are so well furnish'd buy a Weather to make a Holocaust of it and to distribute it amongst the poor they being not allow'd to keep above two pounds of it for themselves If they do not punctually observe that and that some discovery should be made thereof they are made incapable ever after while they live of shaving their Heads or paring their Nails From Gebel-Araffa they return to Medina where they keep an account of the time when the Caravan arrived there in regard that all the Pilgrims who came by Land are as I said elsewhere maintain'd with sustenance for the space of Seventeen dayes but they who come by Sea are sustain'd as long as they continue there even though they should make it the place of their abode as long as they live FINIS A SHORT DESCRIPTION Of all the KINGDOMS Which Encompass the Euxine and Caspian Seas DELIVERED By the AUTHOR after above Twenty Years Travel Together with a PREFACE CONTAINING Several Remarkable Observations concerning divers of the forementioned COUNTRIES LONDON Printed for R. L. and Moses Pytt 1677. The Publisher unto the Reader THE ensuing Narration was put into my hands Five or Six Years ago by a very Intelligent Worthy Person who long resided in the same Family with our Author and did assure me that the Discourse here published was written with his own hand and presented unto that Honourable Person who redeemed him out of Captivity The Gentleman who bestowed these Papers upon me will not be responsible for the Truth of all therein contained but I having compared his Account of several Countries with that of Olearius and other more Ancient and Modern Writers have found them very Consonant unto each other and therefore do charitably believe him no less Faithful in his Description of those Countries and People concerning whom little hath been said by any besides By reason of his long absence from his Native Country and dis-use of his Mother-Tongue his style was so rough odd and unpleasant that I was forced to make therein great Alterations both as to Method and Expression yet keeping strictly unto his sense I have also much abbreviated his Discourse many things being often repeated and he having stuffed it with divers impertinencies which would have been void of all Instruction and Delight He would never own his true Name or Pedigree for Reasons mentioned in his Paper which I thought altogether unnecessary to be rehearsed that of Astracan wherewith he concludes his NARRATIVE being fictitious and I suppose assumed because of his long Residence in a City of that name from which he made most of his Excursions And which with the Adjacent Country he hath above all others most particularly described giving us the names of several Neighbouring Places and Rivers mentioned by no other Writer I was highly pleased with the Account he gives us of Czarofsgorod which he also sometimes calls Seraichan and Seraichena the former of which is the Muscovitish the latter the Tartarian Appellation and interpreted both signifie the Habitation of the Emperour or Cham it being formerly the Metropolis of a great
not believe me and therefore commanded the Caravan-Bashi to fetch my Trunks that they might be open'd in their presence While they were opening one of the chief persons about those Princes would not suffer any of the rest of the Arabs to come near for though most of the Arabs are great Thieves yet some of them are persons of great integrity Now I had in my company a young Painter who had in his Chest several engrav'd Cuts part Landskips part Figures together with the Pictures of certain Courtisans drawn to the Wast The young Lords made choice only of twenty of those Courtisans which I would have presented to them but they gave me to understand that they knew how to pay for what they had and especially the youngest who seem'd to be very generous him I pleas'd in an extraordinary manner for his Teeth being very foul I order'd a Chirurgeon that I carry'd along with me at the same time to clean them which he did to the great satisfaction of the young Prince Thereupon they sent me and my Train of their best Victuals they had The Caravan-Bashi presented them with half a piece of Scarlet and two pieces of Tissue of Gold and Silver When we were ready to go the young Sultan gave me twelve Ducats for my Pictures and sent the Caravan-Bashi and my self two Frails of the best Dates that we had met with since we lest Aleppo About midnight the Princes dislodg'd and took to the North toward Euphrates We set forward after them driving Northward toward the same River After we had travel'd four days we met one of the most potent Emirs of Arabia who coming from the South and going Northward was to cross the Road that we kept He was about fifty years of age well made and of a comely presence He had not then above two thousand Horse of thirty thousand which we heard had pass'd by some days before Behind the two thousand Horse were fifty Camels that carry'd his Women their Cajavas being cover'd with Scarlet-cloth fring'd with Silk In the midst of these Camels there were six encompass'd with Eunuchs the Fringes of the Cajavas being Silk Silver and Gold The Arabians do not seem to be jealous of their Wives as in Turkie and other places for they led their Camels by our Caravan never requiring us to retire as is the custom in other places They lodg'd a quarter of a League off where we thought to have pitch'd for the conveniency of two or three Ponds which they depriv'd us of This Arabian Prince had a great number of lovely Horses richly harness'd others he had that were neither sadl'd nor bridl'd yet the Riders would turn them with a Wand which way they pleas'd and upon a full gallop would stop 'em by only holding them by the Hair He had some Horses of an excessive price and this is to be observ'd that they are never shod The Caravan-Bashi believing he should not escape scot-free from so powerful a Prince among the Merchants of the Caravan found out a rich Saddle with Bridle and Stirrups which were all set out and garnish'd with massy Silver with an embroider'd Quiver full of Arrows together with a Buckler the whole coming to about eleven or twelve hundred Livers and adding to these of his own a piece of Scarlet four pieces of Tissue of Gold and Silk and six pieces of Tissue of Silver and Silk made a Present of all together to the Emir But he refus'd all demanding only two hundred thousand Piasters for Larins which exchange being no way for the Merchants profit rais'd a great dispute But at length considering that it was in his power to stop and starve us there we only endeavour'd a Composition which was obtain'd Thereupon he took the Present which perhaps he would not else have done For two days that we staid to weigh the Money he sent Provisions to the chief of the Caravan and at our departure he sent us twelve Frails of Dates and four young Camels that might be worth about forty Crowns a-piece Two days after we met a Schek who among the Arabians is one of the chief of the Law He was going to Mecca cross some part of Arabia the Happy with a Train of ten or twelve Camels He staid all night with us and one of his Servants having been dangerously wounded about two days before with a Musket-bullet my Chirurgeon drest him and gave him Salve and Tents for which he was extremely thankful He sent me to Supper a great Dish of Pilaw and the next day a whole Sheep The Caravan-Bashi likewise presented him with two Ells of Scarlet The next we met with nothing worth observation but the day following we met another Emir of about Five and Twenty years of age who came from Euphrates and was travelling into the Happy Arabia He had with him about five hundred Horse and three hundred Camels that carry'd his women He presently sent to know what Caravan it was and understanding that it consisted of many Franks among whom there was a Chirurgeon He sent again to desire the Caravan Bashi to follow with the Caravan to the place where he intended to pitch his Tents which was not far out of the way We did not think to have gone so far that day but he led us to the best water in all the Desert The Princes Tent being set up he sent for my Chirurgeon with whom I went along to know what his pleasure was He had upon his left Arm a Tetter with a most filthy Scab as broad as a Crown piece and this went and came at certain times in the year He presently ask'd the Chirurgeon whether he could cure him to whom the Chirurgeon made answer that the cure was not impossible provided he knew where to get such remedies as were convenient For had he said he could have absolutely cur'd him the Emir would have carry'd him away with him without any farther Ceremony Thereupon he would have giv'n the Chirurgeon five hundred Crowns to have bought Medicines But I made answer that the cure would not cost so much and that if the Chirurgeon could meet with proper Drugs I would lay out the Money my self The Emir content with that answer sent one of his chief People to Balsara to come back with the Chirurgeon when he had bought his Medicines He himself stay'd three days in expectation of him but after we had pretended to seek for what we wanted up and down the Town for we enquired for such things as we knew were not to be had we sent him back word that we could not find what we look'd for and desir'd his excuse in regard the attendance of the Chirurgeon would be of no use where he had not proper remedies which was the only way we could think of to get cleverly rid of him The next days Journey after we had left the Arabian Prince was through a Country altogether uninhabited but the day following which was the sixty-fifth and
notice But the Governour pleaded his excuse and appeas'd the Emir After that he sent for Coffee for us and then caus'd us to open the Budget that we carry'd behind our Horses to see whether there were any thing that pleas'd him or no. In my Budget were two pieces of Calicut exquisitely painted for two Coverlets of a Bed two pieces of Handkerchief of Calicut two Persian Standishes beautify'd with Japon Varnish two Damascene Blades one inlaid with Gold the other with Silver All which he lik'd and made me give him In the Spaniards Budget he found nothing but a few old Clothes But afterwards being known to have had some Diamonds about him the French Consul at Aleppo sentenc'd him to pay me half the charges of what I gave the Emir The Prince satisfi'd with what he had tak'n gave order that we should be furnish'd with all necessary Provisions for our selves and our Horses but being provided before we only took three or four handfuls of excellent Dates to shew that we did not slight his kindness Between Anna and Mached-raba is the Guide to take special care so to order his Stages as to come every morning to the Wells by break of day for fear of meeting the Arabs that come to fetch Water there by that time the Sun is up who are apt enough to be injurious to Travellers At Mached-raba I saw one of the most beautiful Virgins that ever I beheld in my life For I had given a Piaster to an Arab to get me some Bread and going to see whether it were bak'd I found the Virgin putting it into the Oven who being alone made me a sign to retire There I also saw a Colt of that wonderful shape that the Basha of Damas had offer'd three thousand Crowns for it Coming to Taïba we did not go into the Town but lay without under the Walls Only our Arab went in and brought us chopt Straw for our Camels The Governour of the Town came along with him and demauded twenty Piasters of every one for certain Duties which he pretended payable to him We knew there were but four due and refus'd to pay any more but the Arab having a mind to put a trick upon the Spaniard gave me a wink intimating to me that I should not trouble my self Thereupon the Governour incens'd goes back to the Town and by and by returns with an Iron Chain and had certainly carry'd the Spaniard fetter'd to the Fort had he not laid down the twenty Piasters For my part I was discharg'd for my four Piasters according to custom Drawing near to Aleppo the first Houses that we came at bordering upon the Desert were the Houses of the Arabs and Bedoüins the second of which being the Habitation of a Friend of our Guide's I deliver'd my Horse to the Guide to whom I had sold it before at his own earnest request for I was resolv'd to go a-foot to Aleppo and therefore that I might save the Custom of a parcel of Turquoises that I had about me I put them in the Pouches which I carry'd behind my Horse and threw the Pouches into a little Chest as if they had been things of no consequence and desir'd the Man of the House to keep them a day or two The Arab told me that were it all Gold it should be safe and indeed when I sent for them within a day or two after I found nothing missing When I came to Aleppo the English Consul ask'd me what news from Ispahan I made answer that he must of necessity know better than I in regard the English President there had sent away an Express to him while I was there and that he went away with two Capuchins and an Arabian Guide Thereupon the Consul mistrusting some mischief was befal'n them requested the Basha to lend him some of his Sokliers who readily granted him eight Men part Arabians part Bedoüins These the Consul order'd to disperse themselves upon several Roads in the Wilderness to see if they could meet with any tidings upon the Way In a short time two of them return'd with two little Pouches in one of which was the Packet of Letters They reported also that in a by-place between Taïba and Mached-raba they saw the Bodies of four dead Men lying upon the Sand. One of them which was in black Clothes being hack'd and mangled in a most miserable manner but the Bodies of the other three were entire though run through in several places Some time after the persons themselves that did the fact told both at Diarbequir and Damas how it came to pass For certain Merchants of Damas going to Diarbequir perceiv'd four Men early in the morning at certain Wells where they were to stop whereupon they sent two of their Company before to know who they were But the Austin-Frier having a little parcel of Diamonds about him and believing them to be Thieves inconsiderately let fly his Gun and kill'd one of them immediately upon the place the Merchants seeing one of their companions dead fell all at once upon the other three cut the Austin-Frier to pieces and slew the rest and so without rifling them pursu'd their Journey From Aleppo I went to Alexandretta and there embarqu'd in a Vessel of Marseilles with a favourable Wind 'till we came to make the Coast of Candy where we were becalm'd for two days One morning by break of day we discover'd a Pickaroon whereupon seeing we could not avoid being fetch'd up by him we made ready He made two or three shot at us which did us no other harm but only touch'd the Beak-head of the Ship Our Gunner made a shot at him which brought down his Top-gallant a second went through and through the great Cabin and caus'd a great disorder in his Ship as far as we could discern with our Prospective-Glasses But when the Wind began to blow fresh the Pirate who had enough of us and had discover'd another Vessel which perhaps he thought better prize made all the Sail he could from us toward the other Vessel Thereupon we pursu'd our Voyage with a fair Gale and came to Malta From Malta we departed seven or eight in company in two of the Pope's Gallies staying three days at Syracuse and one at Messina where our Company increasing we hir'd a Feluck for Naples But as we were coasting by the Shoar to the Port of Naples so terrible a Tempest surpriz'd us near to Paolo that we were forc'd to put in there upon Palm-Sunday The next day we went to see the Covent of St. Francis of Paolo the way to it lying between a high Mountain on the right and a Precipice on the left hand This Mountain leans so that it seems to be tumbling down and there is a good height upon the Rock the seeming print of a Hand which as the report goes was the print of St. Francis's Hand who sustain'd it a whole day and kept it from falling From Paolo we went to Naples were we
good fellowship met with certain Persians with whom he happen'd to quarrel and being well beaten for his pains thought it not convenient to stay any longer where he had bin so ill entertain'd Thereupon the Dutch Interpreter went and complain'd to the Athemadoulet who inform'd the King The King immediately sent for the people that had beaten the Hollander and ask'd them why they abus'd a stranger To which the others made answer that they saw no stranger but only a man clad after the Persian garb Whereupon the King told the Interpreter that if the Dutch-man had worn his own Country habit his Subjects durst not have abus'd him but as the case stood he had no reason to punish ' em One day it happen'd that there was a great hubbub in one of those houses of debauchery where the woman had prostituted her own Daughter The King inform'd of it commanded the Mother to be thrown headlong from a Tower and that the Daughter should be torn a pieces by his doggs which he keeps a purpose for such chastisements Above all things there is an extraordinary care taken for the security of the High-ways For which purpose guards are set at convenient distances who are ready to pursue upon the least noise of a Robbery and who examin people whence they come and whither they go If they answer not as they should or trip in their Answers they carry them before the next Governor Those Radars are so posted over all Persia that you need no more then send to the places where they keep station to know what is become of any person that has committed a crime For it is impossible to scape all the Passes are so well guarded If any one endeavours to travel through the Mountains or unfrequented roads then the Radars who are in all places seize such persons upon suspition for not taking the direct road As the Caravan was one day setting out from Tauris for Ispahan a poor fellow took an occasion to rob a Cloak-bag during the hurly-burly of packing up and fled cross the fields not knowing his way the Merchant missing his goods complain'd to the Governour who having sought for him in vain sent order to the Guards of the High-ways to make a strict examination and to send the person to him so soon as they had seiz'd him In a short time the Thief was constrain'd to forsake his Cloak-bag and to come a thwart the fields for water Who being examin'd by the Radars why he came alone by such a by way and not knowing what to answer was carri'd to the Governour He was soon convicted and condemn'd to death for Thieves find no mercy in Persia. Only they are variously put to death For sometimes they are ty'd to a Camels tayl by the feet and their bellies rip 't open Sometimes they are buried alive all but their heads and starv'd to death in which torment they will sometimes desire a Passenger to cut off their heads though it be a kindness forbidden by the Law But the most cruel punishment of all is when they set the Thief a Horse-back with his extended Arms fasten'd to a long stick behind then larding him with lighted Candles they suffer the Candles to burn into his very bowels Another and I met two in this misery who desir'd us to hasten their deaths which we durst not do only we gave them a Pipe of Tobacco according to their desire As for those that steal in Cities they tye them by the heels to the tayl of a Camel and rip up their bellies and then as the Camel drags the poor creature along the streets while one goes before him crying The King has punish'd him for such a crime If yet he be not dead they hang him upon the next tree The Radars have little wages which makes them use their Rhetoric to get what honestly they can out of the Travellers to whom they tell long stories of their care for the security of the high-ways If it happen that a Merchant be rob'd the Governour of the Province is to make good to the Merchant whatever he has lost according as he shall make out by his Oath or his Book Nor dare the Governors deny satisfaction fearing a complaint at Ispahan I my self was rob'd of two Bales of goods between Lar and Schiras to the value of 1400 Piasters but upon complaint to the Governour upon my own oath and shewing him my Book he pay'd me all my loss in gold and gave me a present in wine besides The Posts or Shappars are those that carry the Kings dispatches to the Governours of Provinces When they are sent any whither the Kings Esquire finds them a Horse and a man that runs to the end of the Stage to bring him back again If these Curriers meet a Horseman upon the road they have power to dismount him if their own be not so good or be tyr'd and the Horseman must either run after his Horse or send some body to the end of the Stage Sometimes these Curriers abusing their power within a quarter of an hour after they have chang'd their Horse if they meet another better mounted they will take away his Horse too Nor dares the Horseman resist though he be never so much too strong for there is no pardon for them that lay so much as a finger upon one of these Shappars at other times they will pretend to take away a mans Horse only to get money But they are forbid to deal so by the Franks and I have pass'd by them when they have said nothing to me Their Government in relation to Belly-timber is the best in the world For there is a Mohteseb who is the chief of the Government whose business it is to set a rate upon all sorts of Provision being assisted by three or four more Assessors Every first day of the week there is a public Proclamation of taxe upon the weight of every thing Which Assessors in the evening advize together against the next day whether to raise or abate the price before set This order was establish'd by the great Sha Abbas and was in his raign more punctually observ'd then it has been since By the by observe that all provisions of belly-timber are sold by weight and not by measure so that you may send a Child to Market for if the Commodity be not weight 't is well if the buyer be satisfy'd with having his money again For if the seller be discover'd to sell by false weights they are led about the streets with a Taktekolas or a Bonnet like a Bee-hive upon their heads and a Bell about their necks to expose'em first to the laughter of the people after that they are fin'd and receive so many drubs upon the soles of their feet If this good order were not observ'd in Persia the poor would suffer very much For the handicraft tradesmen that work all day in shops remote from their houses where their wives are continually shut up eat