the Indians to hasten him into the Church The Indian immediately ran away and all the rest taking the alarm sprang out of the Church like Deer it was hard to say which was first and Captain Davis who knew nothing of what hapned was left in the Church only with the Fryer When they were all fled Captain Davis his Men fired and kill'd the Secretary and thus our hopes perished by the indiscretion of one foolish fellow In the afternoon the Ships came into the Gulf between Point Casivina and Mangera and anchored near the Island Amapalla on the East side in 10 fathom water clean hard Sand. In the evening Captain Davis and his company came aboard and brought the Fryer with them who told Captain Davis that if the Secretary had not been kill d he could have sent him a Letter by one of the Indians that was taken at Mangera and perswaded him to come to us but now the only way was to send one of those Indians to seek the Casica and that himself would instruct him what to say and did not question but the Casica would come in on his word The next day we sent ashore one of the Indians who before night returned with the Casica and 6 other Indians who remained with us all the time that we staid here These Indians did us good service especially in piloting us to an Island where we kill'd Beef whenever we wanted and for this their service we satisfied them to their hearts content It was at this Island Amapalla that a party of Englishmen and Frenchmen came afterwards and stay'd a great while and at last landed on the Main and marched over Land to the Cape River which disembogues into the North Seas near Cape Gratia Dios and is therefore called the Cape River Near the Head of this River they made Bark-logs which I shall describe in the next Chapter and so went into the North Seas This was the way that Captain Sharp had proposed to go if he had been put to it for this way was partly known to Privateers by the discovery that was made into the Country about 30 years since by a party of Englishmen that went up that River in Canoas about as far as the place where these Frenchmen made their Bark-logs there they landed and marched to a Town called Segevia in the Country They were near a month getting up the River for there are many Cataracts where they were often forced to leave the River and hale their Canoas ashore over the Land till they were past the Cataracts and then launch their Canoas again into the River I have discoursed several Men that were in that Expedition and if I mistake not Captain Sharp was one of them But to return to our Voyage in hand when both our Ships were clean and our Water fill'd Captain Davis and Captain Eaton broke off Consortships Captain Eaton took aboard of his Ships 400 Packs of Flower and sailed out of the Gulf the second day of September CHAP. VI. They depart from Amapalla Tornadoes Cape St. Francisco They meet Captain Eaton and part again Isle of Plata described Another meeting with Capt. Eaton and their final parting Point Sancta Hellena Algatrane a sort of Tar. A Spanish VVreck Cruisings Manta near Cape St. Lorenzo Monte Christo. Cruisings Cape Blanco Payta The Buildings in Peru. The Soil of Peru. Colan Bark-logs described Piura The Road of Payta Lobos de Terra They come again to Lobos de la Mar. The Bay of Guiaquil Isle of Sancta Clara. A rich Spanish Wreck there Cat-fish Point Arena in the Isle Puna The Island described The Palmeto tree Town and Harbour of Puna River of Guiaquil Guiaquil Town Its Commodities Cacao Sarsaparilla Quito cloth Of the City and Gold and Air of Quito They enter the Bay in order to make an attempt on the Town of Guiaquil A great advantage slipt that might have been made of a company of Negroes taken in Guiaquil River They go to Plata again Isle Plata THE third day of September 1684. we sent the Frier ashore and left the Indians in possession of the Prize which we brought in hither though she was still half laden with Flower and we sailed out with the Land Wind passing between Amapalla and Mangera When we were a league out we saw a Canoa coming with Sail and Oars after us therefore we shortened Sail and staid for her She was a Canoa sent by the Governor of St. Michaels Town to our Captain desiring him not to carry away the Frier The Messenger being told that the Frier was set ashore again at Amapalla he returned with joy and we made Sail again having the Wind at W. N. W. We steered towards the Coast of Peru we had Tornadoes every day till we made Cape St. Francisco which from June to November are very common on these Coasts and we had with the Tornadoes very much Thunder Lightning and Rain When the Tornadoes were over the Wind which while they lasted was most from the South East came about again to the West and never failed us till we were in sight of Cape St. Francisco where we found the Wind at South with fair weather This Cape is in lat 01 d. 00 North. It is a high bluff or full point of Land cloathed with tall great Trees Passing by this Point coming from the North you will see a small low Point which you might suppose to be the Cape but you are then past it and presently afterwards it appears with three points The Land in the Country within this Cape is very high and the Mountains commonly appear very black When we came in with this Cape we overtook Captain Eaton plying under the shore he in his passage from Amapalla while he was on that Coast met with such terrible Tornadoes of Thunder and Lightning that as he and all his Men related they had never met with the like in any place They were very much affrighted by them the Air smelling very much of Sulphur and they apprehending themselves in great danger of being burnt by the Lightning He touch'd at the Island Cocos and put ashore 200 Packs of Flower there and loaded his Boat with Coco Nuts and took in fresh water In the evening we separated again from Captain Eaton for he stood off to Sea and we plied up under the shore making our best advantage both of Sea and Land Winds The Sea Winds are here at South the Land Winds at S. S. E. but sometimes when we came abreast of a River we should have the Wind at S. E. The 20th day of September we came to the Island Plata and anchored in 16 fathom We had very good weather from the time that we fell in with Cape St. Francisco and were now fallen in again with the same places from whence I begin the account of this Voyage in the first Chapter having now compast in the whole Continent of the South America The Island Plata as some report
never see one Pearl Oyster about them nor any Pearl Oyster Shells but on the other Oysters I have made many a Meal there The northermost Island of all this range is called Pacheca or Pacheque This is but a small Island distant from Panama 11 or 12 leagues The Southermost of them is called St. Pauls Besides these two I know no more that are called by any particular name though there are many that far exceed either of the two in bigness Some of these Islands are planted with Plantains and Bonanas and there are Fields of Rice on others of them The Gentlemen of Panama to whom they belong keep Negroes there to plant weed and husband the Plantations Many of them especially the largest are wholly untill'd yet very good fat Land full of large Trees These unplanted Islands shelter many Runaway Negroes who abscond in the Woods all day and in the night boldly pillage the Plantain Walks Betwixt these Islands and the Main is a Channel of 7 or 8 leagues wide there is good depth of Water and good anchoring all the way The Islands border thick on each other yet they make many small narrow deep Channels fit only for Boats to pass between most of them At the S. E. end about a league from St. Pauls Island there is a good place for Ships to careen or hale ashore It is surrounded with the Land and hath a good deep Channel on the North side to go in at The tide riseth here about 10 foot perpendicular We brought our Ships into this place the 25th day but were forced to tarry for a Spring Tide before we could have Water enough to clean them therefore we first cleaned our Barks that they might cruise before Panama while we lay here The 27th day our Barks being clean we sent them out with 20 Men in each The fourth day after they returned with a Prize laden with Maiz or Indian Corn Salt Beef and Fowls She came from Lavelia and was bound to Panama Lavelia is a Town we once designed to attempt It is pretty large and stands on the Banks of a River on the North side of the Bay of Panama 6 or 7 leagues from the Sea Nata is another such Town standing in a Plain near another branch of the same River In these Towns and some others on the same Coast they breed Hogs Fowls Bulls and Cows and plant Maize purposely for the support of Panama which is supplied with Provision mostly from other Towns and the neighbouring Islands The Beef and Fowl our Men took came to us in a good time for we had eaten but little Flesh since we left the Island Plata The Harbor where we careen'd was incompassed by three Islands and our Ships rode in the middle That on which we haled our Ships ashore was a little Island on the North side of the Harbor The was a fine small sandy Bay but all the rest of the Island was invironed with Rocks on which at low Water we did use to gather Oysters Clams Muscles and Limpits The Clam is a sort of Oyster which grows so fast to the Rock that there is no separating it from thence therefore we did open it where it grows and take out the Meat which is very large fat and sweet Here are a few common Oysters such as we have in England of which sort I have met with none in these Seas but here at Point Garachina at Puna and on the Mexican Coast in the lat of 23 d. North. I have a Manuscript of Mr. Teat Captain Swan's chief Mate which gives an account of Oysters plentifully found in Port St. Julian on the East side and somewhat to the North of the Streights of Magellan but there is no mention made of what Oysters they are Here are some Guanoes but we found no other sort of Land Animal Here are also some Pigeons and Turtle-Doves The rest of the Islands that incompass this Harbor had of all these sorts of Creatures Our Men therefore did every day go over in Canoas to them to fish fowl or hunt for Guanoes but having one Man surprized once by some Spaniards lying there in Ambush and carried off by them to Panama we were after that more cautious of straggling The 14th day of February 1685. we made an end of cleaning our Ship fill'd all our Water and stock'd our selves with Fire-wood The 15th day we went out from among the Islands and anchored in the Channel between them and the Main in 25 fathom Water fast oazy ground The Plate Fleet was not yet arrived therefore we intended to cruise before the City of Panama which is from this place about 25 leagues The next day we sailed towards Panama passing in the Channel between the Kings Islands and the Main It is very pleasant sailing here having the Main on one side which appears in divers forms It is beautified with many small Hills cloathed with Woods of divers sorts of Trees which are always green and flourishing There are some few small high Islands within a league of the Main scattering here and there one These are partly woody partly bare and they as well as the Main appear very pleasant The Kings Islands are on the other side of this Channel and make also a very lovely prospect as you sail by them These as I have already noted are low and flat appearing in several shapes according as they are naturally formed by many small Creeks and Branches of the Sea The 16th day we anchored at Pacheque in 17 fathom Water about a league from the Island and sailed from thence the next day with the Wind at N. N. E. directing our course towards Panama When we came abrest of Old Panama we anchored and sent our Canoa ashore with our Prisoner Don Diego de Pinas with a Letter to the Governor to treat about an Exchange for our Man they had spirited away as I said and another Captain Harris left in the River of St. Maria the year before coming over Land Don Diego was desirous to go on this Errand in the name and with the consent of the rest of our Spanish Prisoners but by some accident he was killed before he got ashore as we heard afterwards Old Panama was formerly a famous place but it was taken by Sir Henry Morgan about the year 1673. and at that time great part of it was burned to ashes and it was never re-edified since New Panama is a very fair City standing close by the Sea about 4 mile from the Ruines of the Old Town It gives name to a large Bay which is famous for a great many navigable Rivers some whereof are very rich in Gold it is also very pleasantly sprinkled with Islands that are not only profitable to their Owners but very delightful to the Passengers and Seamen that sail by them some of which I have already described It is incompassed on the backside with a pleasant Country which is full of small Hills and Valleys beautified with
consorted with us and set his Men to work to make Canoas Every Ships company made for themselves but we all helped each other to launch them for some were made a mile from the Sea The manner of making a Canoa is after cutting down a large long Tree and squaring the upper-most side and then turning it upon the flat side to shape the opposite side for the bottom Then again they turn her and dig the inside boring also three holes in the bottom one before one in the middle and one aloft thereby to gage the thickest of the bottom for otherwise we might cut the bottom thinner than is convenient We left the bottoms commonly about 3 inches thick and the sides 2 inches thick below and one and an half at the top One or both of the ends we sharpen to a point Captain Davis made two very large Canoas one was 36 foot long and 5 or 6 feet wide the other 32 foot long and near as wide as the other In a months time we finished our business and were ready to sail Here Captain Harris went to lay his Ship aground to clean her but she being old and rotten fell in pieces and therefore he and all his Men went aboard of Captain Davis and Captain Swan While we lay here we struck Turtle every day for they were now very plentiful but from August to March here are not many The 18th day of July John Rose a Frenchman and 14 Men more belonging to Captain Gronet having made a new Canoa came in her to Captain Davis and desired to serve under him and Captain Davis accepted of them because they had a Canoa of their own The 20th day of July we sailed from Quibo bending our course for Ria Lexa which is the Port for Leon the City that we now designed to attempt We were now 640 men in 8 sail of Ships Commanded by Captain Davis Captain Swan Captain Townly and Captain Knight with a Fireship and 3 Tenders which last had not a constant crew We past out between the River Quibo and the Rancheria leaving Quibo and Quicaro on our Larboard side and the Rancheria with the rest of the Islands and the Main on our Starboard side The Wind at first was at South South West We coasted along shore passing by the Gulf of Nicoya the Gulf of Dulce and by the Island Caneo All this Coast is low Land overgrown with thick Woods and there are but few inhabitants near the shore As we sailed to the Westward we had variable winds sometimes S. W. and at W. S. W. and sometimes at E. N. E. but we had them most commonly at S. W. we had a Tornado or two every day and in the evening or in the night we had land winds at N. N. E. The 8th day of August being in the lat of 11 d. 20 m. by observation we saw a high Hill in the Country towring up like a Sugar-loaf which bore N. E. by N. We supposed it to be Volcan Vejo by the smoak which ascended from its top therefore we steered in North and made it plainer and then knew it to be that Volcan which is the Sea-mark for the harbour for Ria Lexo for as I said before in Chapter the 5th it is a very remarkable Mountain When we had brought this Mountain to bear N. E. we got out all our Canoas and provided to embark into them the next day The 9th day in the morning being about 8 leagues from the shore we left our Ships under the charge of a few men and 520 of us went away in 31 Canoas rowing towards the Harbour of Ria Lexa We had fair Weather and little Wind till 2 a clock in the afternoon then we had a Tornado from the shore with much Thunder Lightning and Rain and such a gust of Wind that we were all like to be founder d. In this extremity we put right afore the Wind every Canoas crew making what shift they could to avoid the threatning danger The small Canoas being most light and buoyant mounted nimbly over the Surges but the great heavy Canoas lay like logs in the Sea ready to be swallowed by every foaming billow Some of our Canoas were half full of water yet kept two men constantly heaving it out The fierceness of the Wind continued about half an hour and abated by degrees and as the Wind died away so the fury of the Sea abated For in all hot Countries as I have observed the Sea is soon raised by the Wind and as soon down again when the Wind is gone and therefore it is a proverb among the Sea-men Up Wind up Sea Down Wind down Sea At 7 a clock in the evening it was quite calm and the Sea as smooth as a Mill-pond Then we tugg'd to get into the shore but finding we could not do it before day we rowed off again to keep our selves out of sight By that time it was day we were 5 leagues from the Land which we thought was far enough off shore Here we intended to lye till the evening but at 3 a clock in the afternoon we had another Tornado more fierce than that which we had the day before This put us in greater peril of our lives but did not last so long As soon as the violence of the Tornado was over we rowed in for the shore and entered the Harbour in the night The Creek which leads towards Leon lieth on the S. E. side of the Harbour Our Pilot being very well acquainted here carried us into the mouth of it but could carry us no farther till day because it is but a small Creek and there are other Creeks like it The next morning as soon as it was light we rowed into the Creek which is very narrow the Land on both sides lying so low that every tide it is overflown with the Sea This sort of Land produceth red Mangrove-trees which are here so plentiful and thick that there is no passing thro them Beyond these Mangroves on the firm Land close by the side of the River the Spaniards have built a Brestwork purposely to hinder an Enemy from landing When we came in sight of the Brestwork we rowed as fast as we could to get ashore The noise of our Oars allarmed the Indians who were set to watch and presently they ran away towards the City of Leon to give notice of our approach We landed as soon as we could and marched after them 470 men were drawn out to march to the Town and I was left with 59 men more to stay and guard the Canoas till their return The City of Leon is 20 mile up in the Country The way to it plain and even through a champion Country of long grassy Savannahs and spots of high Woods About 5 mile from the landing place there is a Sugar work 3 mile farther there is another and 2 mile beyond that there is a fine River to ford which is not very deep besides which there is
no water in all the way till you come to an Indian Town which is 2 mile before you come to the City and from thence it is a pleasant straight sandy way to Leon. This City stands in a plain not far from a high peeked Mountain which oftentimes casts forth fire and smoak from its top It may be seen at Sea and it is called the Volcan of Leon. The Houses of Leon are not high built but strong and large with Gardens about them The Walls are Stone and the covering of Pan-tile There are 3 Churches and a Cathedral which is the head Church in these parts Our Countryman Mr Gage who travelled in these parts recommends it to the World as the pleasantest place in all America and calls it the Paradice of the Indies Indeed if we consider the advantage of its situation we may find it surpassing most places for health and pleasure in America for the Country about it is of a sandy Soil which soon drinks up all the Rain that falls to which these parts are much subject It is incompassed with Savannahs so that they have the benefit of the breezes coming from any quarter all which makes it a very healthy place It is a place of no great Trade and therefore not rich in money Their wealth lies in their Pastures and Cattle and Plantations of Sugar It is said that they make Cordage here of Hemp but if they have any such Manufactory it is at some distance from the Town for here is no sign of any such thing Thither our men were now marching they went from the Canoas about 8 a clock Captain Townly with 80 of the briskest men marched before Captain Swan with 100 men marched next and Captain Davis with 170 men marched next and Captain Knight brought up the Rear Captain Townly who was near 2 mile a head of the rest met about 70 Horsemen 4 mile before he came to the City but they never stood him About 3 a clock Captain Townly only with his 80 men entered the Town and was briskly charged in a broad street with 170 or 200 Spanish Horsemen but 2 or 3 of their Leaders being knock d down the rest fled Their foot consisted of about 500 men which were drawn up in the Parade for the Spaniards in these parts make a large square in every Town tho the Town it self be small This Square is calcled the Parade commonly the Church makes one side of it and the Gentlemens Houses with their Galleries about them the other But the Foot also seeing their Horse retire left an empty City to Captain Townly beginning to save themselves by flight Captain Swan came in about 4 a clock Captain Davis with his men about 5 and Captain Knight with as many men as he could incourage to march came in about 6 but he left many men tired on the road these as is usual came dropping in one or two at a time as they were able The next morning the Spaniards kill d one of our tired men he was a stout old Grey-headed man aged about 84 who had served under Oliver in the time of the Irish Rebellion after which he was at Jamaica and had followed Privateering ever since He would not accept of the offer our men made him to tarry ashore but said he would venture as far as the best of them and when surrounded by the Spaniards he refused to take quarter but discharged his Gun amongst them keeping a Pistol still charged so they shot him dead at a distance His name was Swan he was a very merry hearty old man and always used to declare he would never take quarter But they took Mr. Smith who was tired also he was a Merchant belonging to Captain Swan and being carried before the Governour of Leon was known by a Mulatta woman that waited on him Mr. Smith had lived many years in the Canaries and could speak and write very good Spanish and it was there this Mulatto woman remembred him He being examined how many men we were said 1000 at the City and 500 at the Canoas which made well for us at the Canoas who straggling about every day might easily have been destroyed But this so daunted the Governour that he did never offer to molest our men although he had with him above 1000 men as Mr. Smith guessed He sent in a Flag of Truce about noon pretending to ransom the Town rather than let it be burnt but our Captains demanded 300000 pieces of eight for its ransom and as much provision as would victual 1000 men 4 months and Mr. Smith to be ransomed for some of their Prisoners but the Spaniards did not intend to ransom the Town but only capitulated day after day to prolong time till they had got more men Our Captains therefore considering the distance that they were from the Canoas resolved to be marching down The 14th day in the morning they ordered the City to be set on fire which was presently done and then they came away but they took more time in coming down than in going up The 15th day in the morning the Spaniards sent in Mr. Smith and had a Gentlewoman in exchange Then our Captains sent a Letter to the Governor to acquaint him that they intended next to visit Ria Lexa and desired to meet him there they also released a Gentleman on his promise of paying 150 Beefs for his Ransom and to deliver them to us at Ria Lexa and the same day our Men came to their Canoas where having staid all night the next morning we all entered our Canoas and came to the Harbour of Ria Lexa and in the afternoon our Ships came thither to an anchor The Creek that leads to Ria Lexa lyeth from the N. W. part of the Harbour and it runs in Northerly It is about 2 leagues from the Island in the Harbours mouth to the Town 2 thirds of the way it is broad then you enter a narrow deep Creek bordered on both sides with Red Mangrove Trees whose limbs reach almost from one side to the other A mile from the mouth of the Creek it turns away West There the Spaniards have made a very strong Brestwork fronting towards the mouth of the Creek in which were placed 100 Soldiers to hinder us from landing and 20 yards below that Brestwork there was a Chain of great Trees placed cross the Creek so that 10 Men could have kept off 500 or 1000. When we came in sight of the Brestwork we fired but two Guns and they all ran away and we were afterwards near half an hour cutting the Boom or Chain Here we landed and marched to the Town of Rio Lexo or Rea Lejo which is about a mile from hence This Town stands on a Plain by a small River It is a pretty large Town with 3 Churches and an Hospital that hath a fine Garden belonging to it besides many large fair Houses they all stand at a good distance one from another with Yards
and West Indies for thatching Houses they are very lasting and serviceable much surpassing the Palmeto For this Thatch if well laid on will endure 5 or 6 years and this is called by the Spaniards the Palmeto Royal. The English at Jamaica give it the same Name Whether this be the same which they in Guinea get the Palm-wine from I know not but I know that it is like this The Land in the Country is full of small peeked barren Hills making as many little Valleys which appear flourishing and green At the West end of this Bay is the Hill of Petaplan in lat 17d 30 m. N. This is a round point stretching out into the Sea at a distance it seems to be an Island A little to the West of this Hill are several round Rocks which we left without us steering in between them and the round point where we had 11 fathom water We came to an anchor on the N. W. side of the Hill and went ashore about 170 Men of us and marched into the Country 12 or 14 miles There we came to a poor Indian Village that did not afford us a Meal of Victuals The people all fled only a Mulatto woman and 3 or 4 small Children who were taken and brought aboard She told us that a Carrier one who drives a Caravan of Mules was going to Acapulco laden with Flower and other Goods but stopt in the Road for fear of us a little to the West of this Village for he had heard of our being on this Coast and she thought he still remained there and therefore it was we kept the Woman to be our Guide to carry us to that place At this place where we now lay our Moskito-men struck some small Turtle and many small Jew-fish The Jew-fish is a very good Fish and I judge so called by the English because it hath Scales and Fins therefore a clean Fish according to the Levitical Law and the Jews at Jamaica buy them and eat them very freely It is a very large Fish shaped much like a Cod but a great deal bigger one will weigh 3 or 4 or 5 hundred weight It hath 3 large head with great Fins and Scales as big as an Half-Crown answerable to the bigness of his body It is very sweet Meat and commonly fat This Fish lives among Rocks there are plenty of them in the West Indies about Jamaica and the Coast of Caraccos but chiefly in these Seas especially more Westward We went from hence with our Ships the 18th day and steered West about 2 leagues farther to a place called Chequetan A mile and half from the shore there is a small Key and within it is a very good Harbour where Ships may careen there is also a small River of fresh water and wood enough The 14th day in the morning we went with 95 Men in 6 Canoas to seek for the Carrier taking the Mulatto woman for our Guide but Captain Townly would not go with us Before day we landed at a place called Estapa a league to the West of Chequetan The woman was well acquainted here having been often at this place for Muscles as she told us for here are great plenty of them they seem in all respects like our English Muscles She carry'd us through the pathless Wood by the side of a River for about a league then we came into a Savannah full of Bulls and Cows and here the Carrier before mentioned was lying at the Estantion-house with his Mules not having dared to advance all this while as not knowing where we lay so his own fear made him his Mules and all his Goods become a Prey to us He had 40 packs of Flower some Chocolate a great many small Cheeses and abundance of Earthen Ware The eatables we brought away but the Earthen Vessels we had no occasion for and therefore left them The Mules were about 60 we brought our Prize with them to the shore and so turn'd them away Here we also kill'd some Cows and brought with us to our Canoas In the afternoon our Ships came to an anchor half a mile from the place where we landed and then we went aboard Captain Townly seeing our good success went ashore with his Men to kill some Cows for here were no Inhabitants near to oppose us The Land is very woody of a good fertile soil watered with many small Rivers yet it hath but few Inhabitants near the Sea Captain Townly killed 18 Beefs and after he came aboard our Men contrary to Captain Swan's inclination gave Captain Townly part of the Flower which we took ashore Afterwards we gave the Woman some Cloaths for her and her Children and put her and two of them ashore but one of them a very pretty Boy about 7 or 8 years old Captain Swan kept The Woman cried and begg'd hard to have him but Captain Swan would not but promis'd to make much of him and was as good as his word He proved afterwards a very fine Boy for Wit Courage and Dexterity I have often wonder'd at his Expressions and Actions The 21st day in the evening we sailed hence with the Land-wind The Land-winds on this part of the Coast are at N. and the Sea-winds at W. S. W. We had fair weather and coasted along to the Westward The Land is high and full of ragged Hills and West from these ragged Hills the Land makes many pleasant and fruitful Valleys among the Mountains The 25th day we were abrest of a very remarkable Hill which towring above the rest of its fellows is divided in the top and makes two small parts It is in lat 18 d. 8 m. North. The Spaniards make mention of a Town called Thelupan near this Hill which we would have visited if we could have found the way to it The 26th day Captain Swan and Captain Townly with 200 Men of whom I was one went in our Canoas to seek for the City of Colima a rich place by report but how far within Land I could never learn for as I said before here is no Trade by Sea and therefore we could never get Guides to inform us or conduct us to any Town but one or two on this Coast and there is never a Town that lieth open to the Sea but Acapulco and therefore our search was commonly fruitless as now for we rowed above 20 leagues along shore and found it a very bad Coast to land we saw no House nor sign of Inhabitants although we past by a fine Valley called the Valley of Maguella only at two places the one at our first setting out on this Expedttion and the other at the end of it we saw a Horseman set as we supposed as a Centinel to watch us At both places we landed with difficulty and at each place we followed the track of the Horse on the sandy Bay but where they entered the Woods we lost the track and although we diligently searcht for it yet we could find it no more so we
the S. E. end of the Island Mindanao we saw two small Islands about 3 leagues distant from it We might have passed between them and the main Island as we learnt since but not knowing them nor what dangers we might encounter there we chose rather to sail to the Eastward of them But meeting very strong Westerly Winds we got nothing forward in many days In this time we first saw the Islands Meangis which are about 16 leagues distant from the Mindanao bearing S. E. I shall have occasion to speak more of them hereafter The 4th day of July we got into a deep Bay 4 leagues N. W. from the two small Islands before mentioned But the night before in a violent Tornado our Bark being unable to beat any longer bore away which put us in some pain for fear she was overset as we had like to have been our selves We anchored on the South West side of the Bay in 15 fathom Water about a Cables length from the shore Here we were forced to shelter our selves from the violence of the Weather which was so boisterous with Rains and Tornadoes and a strong Westerly Wind that we were very glad to find this place to anchor in being the only shelter on this side from the West Winds This Bay is not above two mile wide at the mouth but farther in it is 3 leagues wide and 7 leagues deep running in N. N. W. There is a good depth of Water about 4 or 5 leagues in but rocky foul ground for above 2 leagues in from the mouth on both sides of the Bay except only in that place where we lay About 3 leagues in from the mouth on the Eastern side there are fair sandy Bays and very good anchoring in 4 5 and 6 fathom The Land on the East side is high mountainous and woody yet very well watered with small Brooks and there is one River large enough for Canoas to enter On the West side of the Bay the Land is of a mean heighth with a large Savannah bordering on the Sea and stretching from the mouth of the Bay a great way to the Westward This Savannah abounds with long Grass and it is plentifully stock'd with Deer The adjacent Woods are a covert for them in the heat of the day but mornings and evenings they feed in the open Plains as thick as in our Parks in England I never saw any where such plenty of wild Deer tho I have met with them in several parts of America both in the North and South Seas The Deer live here pretty peaceably and unmolested for there are no Inhabitants on that side of the Bay We visited this Savannah every morning and killed as many Deer as we pleased sometimes 16 or 18 in a day and we did eat nothing but Venison all the time we staid here We saw a great many Plantations by the sides of the Mountains on the East side of the Bay and we went to one of them in hopes to learn of the Inhabitants whereabouts the City was that we might not over-sail it in the night but they fled from us We lay here till the 12th day before the Winds abated of their fury and then we sailed from hence directing our course to the Westward In the morning we had a Land Wind at North. At 11 a clock the Sea breeze came at West just in our Teeth but it being fair weather we kept on our way turning and taking the advantage of the Land breezes by night and the Sea breezes by day Being now past the S. E. part of the Island we coasted down on the South side and we saw abundance of Canoas a fishing and now and then a small Village Neither were these Inhabitants afraid of us as the former but came aboard yet we could not understand them nor they us but by signs and when we mentioned the word Mindanao they would point towards it The 18th day of July we arrived before the River of Mindanao the mouth of which lies in lat 6 d. 22 m. No. and is laid in 231 d. 12 m. Longitude West from the Lizard in England We anchored right against the River in 15 fathom water clear hard Sand about 2 miles from the shore and 3 or 4 miles from a small Island that lay without us to the Southward We fired 7 or 9 Guns I remember not well which and were answered again with 3 from the shore for which we gave one again Immediately after our coming to an anchor Raja Laut and one of the Sultans Sons came off in a Canoa being rowed with 10 Oars and demanded in Spanish what we were and from whence we came Mr. Smith he who was taken Prisoner at Leon in Mexico answered in the same Language that we were English and that we had been a great while out of England They told us that we were welcom and asked us a great many questions about England especially concerning our East India Merchants and whether we were sent by them to settle a Factory here Mr. Smith told them that we came hither only to buy provision They seemed a little discontented when they understood that we were not come to settle among them for they had heard of our arrival on the East side of the Island a great while before and entertained hopes that we were sent purposely out of England hither to settle a trade with them which it should seem they are very desirous of For Captain Goodlud had been here not long before to treat with them about it and when he went away told them as they said that in a short time they might expect an Ambassadour from England to make a full bargain with them Indeed upon mature thoughts I should think we could not have done better than to have complied with the desire they seemed to have of our settling here and to have taken up our quarters among them For as thereby we might better have consulted our own profit and satisfaction than by the other loose roving way of life so it might probably have proved of publick benefit to our Nation and been a means of introducing an English Settlement and Trade not only here but through several of the Spice-Islands which lye in its neighbourhood For the Islands Meangis which I mentioned in the beginning of this Chapter lye within 20 leagues of Mindanao These are 3 small Islands that abound with Gold and Cloves if I may credit my Author Prince Jeoly who was born on one of them and was at this time a Slave in the City of Mindanao He might have been purchased by us of his Master for a small matter as he was afterwards by Mr. Moody who came hither to Trade and laded a Ship with Clove Bark and by transporting him home to his own Country we might have gotten a Trade there But of Prince Jeoly I shall speak more hereafter These Islands are as yet probably unknown to the Dutch who as I said before indeavour to ingross all
strength it had how they were afraid of us there and of the accident that happen'd to them as is before mentioned in the 10th Chapter We took these two Vessels within 7 or 8 leagues of Manila Luconia I have spoken of already but I shall now add this further account of it It is a great Island taking up between 6 and 7 degrees of Lat. in length and its breadth near the middle is about 60 leagues but the ends are narrow The North end lies in about 19 d. North Lat. and the S. end in about 12 d. 30 m. This great Island hath abundance of small Keys or Islands lying about it especially at the North end The South side fronts towards the rest of the Philippine Islands of these that are its nearest Neighbours Mindora lately mentioned is the chief and gives name to the Sea or Streight that parts it and the other Islands from Luconia being called the Streights of Mindora A Prospect of y e Coast of y e I. Luconia near Manila at 6 L. off Shore y e highest Pike bearing East Thus the Islands Pulo Condor appear at 8 L. distance bearing South It is pretty well inhabited with Indians most of them if not all under the Spaniards who now are masters of it The Native Indians do live together in Towns and they have Priests among them to instruct them in the Spanish Religion Manila the chief or perhaps only City lies at the foot of a ridge of high Hills facing upon a spacious harbour near the S. W. point of the Island in about the Lat. of 14 d. North. It is environ'd with a high strong Wall and very well fortify'd with Forts and Breastworks The Houses are large strongly built and covered with Pan-tile The Streets are large and pretty regular with a Parade in the midst after the Spanish fashion There a great many fair Buildings besides Churches and other Religious houses of which there are not a few The Harbour is so large that some hundreds of Ships may ride here and is never without many both of their own and strangers I have already given you an account of the two Ships going and coming between this place and Acapulco Besides them they have some small Vessels of their own and they do allow the Portuguese to Trade here but the Chinese are the chiefest Merchants and they drive the greatest Trade for they have commonly 20 or 30 or 40 Jonks in the Harbour at a time and a great many Merchants constantly residing in the City beside Shop-keepers and Handy-crafts men in abundance Small Vessels run up near the Town but the Acapulco Ships and others of greater burthen lye a league short of it where there is a strong Fort also and Store-houses to put Goods in I had the major part of this relation 2 or 3 years after this time from Mr. Coppinger our Surgeon for he made a Voyage hither from Porta Nova a Town on the Coast of Coromandel in a Portugueze Ship as I think Here he found 10 or 12 of Captain Swan's men some of those that we left at Mindanao For after we came from thence they bought a Proe there by the instigation of an Irish-man who went by the name of John Fitz-Gerald a person that spoke Spanish very well and so in this their Proe they came hither They had been here but 18 months when Mr. Coppinger arrived here and Mr. Fitz-Gerald had in this time gotten a Spanish Mustesa Woman to Wife and a good Dowry with her He then professed Physick and Surgery and was highly esteemed among the Spaniards for his supposed Knowledge in those Arts For being always troubled with sore Shins while he was with us he kept some Plaisters and Salves by him and with these he set up upon his bare natural stock of knowledge and his Experience in Kibes But then he had a very great stock of confidence withal to help out the other and being an Irish Roman Catholick and having the Spanish Language he had a great advantage of all his Consorts and he alone lived well there of them all We were not within sight of this Town but I was shewn the Hills that over-looked it and drew a draft of them as we lay off at Sea which I have caused to be ingraven among a few others that I took my self See the Table The time of the year being now too far spent to do any thing here it was concluded to sail from hence to Pulo Condore a little parcel of Islands on the Coast of Cambodia and carry this prize with us and there careen if we could find any convenient place for it designing to return hither again by the latter end of May and wait for the Acapulco Ship that comes about that time By our Drafts which we were guided by being strangers to these parts this seemed to us then to be a place out of the way where we might lye snug for a while and wait the time of returning for our prey For we avoided as much as we could the going to lye by at any great place of Commerce lest we should become too much exposed and perhaps be assulted by a force greater than our own So having set our Prisoners ashore we sailed from Luconia the 26th day of Feb. with the Wind E. N. E. and fair weather and a brisk gale We were in lat 14d N. when we began to steer away for Pulo Condore and we steered S. by W. In our way thither we went pretty near the Shoals of Pracel and other Shoals which are very dangerous We were very much afraid of them but escaped them without so much as seeing them only at the very South end of the Pracel Shoals we saw 3 little sandy Islands or Spots of Sand standing just above water within a mile of us It was the 13th day of March before we came in sight of Pulo Condore or the Island Condore as Pulo signifies The 14th day about noon we anchored on the North side of the Island against a sandy Bay 2 mile from the shore in 10 fathom clean hard Sand with both Ship and Prize Pulo Condore is the principal of a heap of Islands and the only inhabited one of them They lye in lat 8 d. 40. m. North and about 20 leagues South and by East from the mouth of the River of Cambodia These Islands lye so near together that at a distance they appear to be but one Island Two of these Islands are pretty large and of a good heighth they may be seen 14 or 15 leagues at Sea the rest are but little Spots The biggest of the two which is the inhabited one is about 4 or 5 leagues long and lies East and West It is not above 3 mile broad at the broadest place in most places not above a mile wide The other large Island is about 3 mile long and half a mile wide This Island stretcheth N. and S. It is so conveniently placed at the West end
he had all the ingredients and an engine to mix them I was easily perswaded to try my skill which I had never yet tried not knowing what I might be put to before I got to England and having drank a glass or two of Wine with him I went to work and it succeeded so well that I pleased him extremely and satisfied my own desire of trying the Receipt and the Reader shall have the History of the Operation if he pleases He brought me Sulphur and Salt-Petre and I weighed a portion of each of these and of Coals I gathered up in the hearth and beat to powder While his man mixed these in a little Engine I made a small Sieve of Parchment which I pricked full of holes with a small Iron made hot and this was to corn it I had 2 large Arek Nuts to roul in the Sieve and work it thro the holes to corn it When it was dry we proved it and it answered our expectation The receipt I had out of Captain Sturiney s Magazin of Arts. The being so successful in this put me afterwards on the reâ—…ewing of Powder at Bencouli when I was there Gunner of that Fort. There being then about 30 Barrels damnified which was like mud they took it out of the Cask and put it into earthen Jars that held about 8 Barrels a piece These they call Mortaban Jars from a Town of that name in Pegu whence they are brought and carried all over India In these 't was intended to send the Powder to Fort St. George to be renewed there But I desired the Governour to let me first try my skill on it because we had but little Powder in the Fort and might have wanted before any returns could be expected from thence The Salt-petre was sunk to the bottom of the Jars but I mixt it and beat it altogether and corned it with Sieves which I made of my own old Parchment draughts I made thus 8 Barrels full of very good Powder before I went from thence The French Priest told me in conclusion that the Grandees made all their own Powder and since I have been informed that the Soldiers make Powder as I have already said I spent the remainder of the day in the Palace with the Priest He told me that the Bishop was well otherwise I should haveseen him and that because it was a Fish day I could not expect such entertainment as I might have had on another day yet he ordered a Fowl to be broyled for my dinner and I dined by my self In the evening he sent me out of the Palace desiring to be excused that he could not entertain me all night yet ordered his man to lodge me in a Tonquinese Christian House not far from thence The people were civil but very poor and my Lodging such as I had met with on the Road. I have since been told that the new Christans come to do their devotion in the Pallace at night and for that reason probably I was so soon dismist I was now again pretty well refreshed and might have gone to Cachao City a foot but fearing my strength I chose to go by water Therefore I sent back my Guide yet before he departed back to our Ships he bargained with a Tonquinese Waterman for my passage to Cachao The Tide not serving presently to imbark I walked about the Town and spent the day in viewing it in the evening I embarked and they choose an evening for coolness rowing all night The Boat was about the bigness of a Gravesend Wherry and was used purposely to carry passengers having a small covering over-head to keep them dry when it rained There were 4 or 5 more of these Boats that went up this Tide full of Passengers In our Boat were about 20 Men and Women besides 4 or 6 that rowed us The Women chose their places and sate by themselves and they had much respect shewed them but the men stowed close together without shewing any respect more to one than to another yet all very civil I thrust in among the thickest of them at first but my Flux would not suffer me to rest long in a place About midnight we were set ashore to refresh our selves at a Baiting place where there were a few Houses close by the Rivers side and the people up with Candles lighted Arack and Tea and little Spits of Meat and other Provisions ready drest to receive us For these were all Houses of entertainment and probably got their living by entertaining passengers We stayed here about an hour and then entred again on our Boat and rowed forwards The passengers spent the time in merry discourse or Singing after their way tho to us it seems like crying but I was mute for want of person I could converse with About 8 or 9 a Clock the next day I was set ashore the rest of the passengers remained in the Boat but whither they were bound I know not nor whether the Boat went quite up to Cachao I was now 5 or 6 mile short of the City but in a good path for the Land here was pretty high level and Sandy and the Road plain and dry and I reached Cachao by Noon I presently went to one Mr. Bowyers House who was a free Merchant with whom Captain Weldon lodged and staid with them a few days but so weak with my Flux which daily encreased that I was scarce able to go about and so was forced to learn by others a great measure several particulars relating to this place This my weakness joyned with my disappointment for I found that I was not like to be imployed in any Voyage to the Neighbouring Countries as it had been proposed to me made me very desirous of returning back again as soon as might be and it happened opportunely that Captain Weldon had by this time done his business and was preparing for his departure I went therefore down the River again to our Ships in a Vessel our Merchants had hired to carry their Goods aboard from Cachao Among other freight there were 2 Bells of about 500 weight each which had been cast at Cachao by the Tonquinese for my Lord Falcon the King of Siam's chief Minister of State and for the use of some of the Christian Churches in Siam The person who bespoke them and was to carry them was Captain Brewster who had not very long before come from Siam in a Ship of that Kings and had been cast away on the Coast of Tonquin but had saved most of his Goods With these he traded at Cachao and among other goods he had purchased to return with to Siam were these 2 Bells all which he sent down to be put on board Captain Weldon's Ship But the Bark was no sooner come to Hean in going down the River but the Governor of Heans Officers come on board the Bark and seized the 2 Bells in behalf of the chief of the English Factory who understanding they were designed for the King
long yet graceful enough They have black Eyes middling Noses thin Lips and black Teeth by the frequent use of Betle They are very lazy and care not to work or take pains The poorer sort are addicted to theft and are often punished severely for it They are otherwise good natured in general and kind enough to strangers The better sort of them wear Caps fitted to their heads of red or other coloured Woollen Cloath like the Crown of a Hat without any brims for none of the Eastern people use the Complement of uncovering their Heads when they meet as we do But the general wear for all sorts of people is a small Turban such as the Mindanaians wear described in the 12th Chapter of my former Volume page 326. They have small Breeches and the better sort will have a piece of Silk thrown loosely over their Shoulders but the poor go naked from the waste upwards Neither have they the use of Stockings and Shoes but a sort of Sandals are worn by the better sort Their Houses are built on Posts as those of Mindanao and they live much after the same fashion but by reason of their Gold Mines and the frequent resort of strangers they are richer and live in greater plenty Their common food is Rice and the better sort have Fowls and Fish with which the Markets are plentifully stored and sometimes Buffaloes flesh all which is drest very savourily with Pepper and Garlick and tinctured yellow with Turmerick to make it pleasant to the Eye as the East Indians generally love to have their food look yellow neither do they want good Achars or Sauces to give it a relish The City of Achin is the chief in all this Kingdom It is seated on the Banks of a River near the N. W. end of the Island and about 2 miles from the Sea This Town consists of 7 or 8000 Houses and in it there are always a great many Merchant-strangers viz English Dutch Danes Portuguese Chinese Guzarats c. The Houses of this City are generally larger than those I saw at Mindanao and better furnished with Houshold Goods The City has no Walls nor so much as a Ditch about it It has a greater number of Mosques generally square built and covered with Pantile but neither high nor large Every morning a man madea great Noise from thence but I saw no Turrets or Steeples for them to climb up into for that purpose as they have generally in Turkey The Queen has a large Palace here built handsomely with Stone but I could not get into the inside of it 'T is said there are some great Guns about it 4 of which are of Brass and are said to have been sent hither as a present by our K. James the 1st The chief Trades at Achin are Carpenters Blacksmiths Goldsmiths Fishermen and Money-changers but the Country people live either on breeding heads of Cattle but most for their own use or Fowls especially they who live near the City which they send weekly thither to sell others plant Roots Fruits c. and of late they have sown pretty large Fields of Rice This thrives here well enough but they are so proud that it is against their Stomach to work neither do they themselves much trouble their heads about it but leave it to be managed by their Slaves and they were the Slaves brought lately by the English and Danes from the Coast of Coromandel in the time of a Famin there I spoke of before who first brought this sort of Husbandry into such request among the Achinese Yet neither does the Rice they have this way supply one quarter of their occasions but they have it brought to them from their Neighbouring Countreys The Fishermen are the richest working people I mean such of them as can purchase a Net for thereby they get great profit and this sort of imployment is managed also by their Slaves In fair weather you shall have 8 or 10 great Boats each with a Sain or haling Net and when they see a Shoal of Fish they strive to incompass them with these Nets and all the Boats that are near assist each other to drag them ashore Sometimes they draw ashore this way 50 60 or 100 large Fish as big as a mans Leg and as long and then they rejoyce mightily and scamper about making a great shout The Fish is presently sent to the Market in one of their Boats the rest looking out again for more Those who Fish with Hook and Line go out in small Proes with but 1 or 2 Slaves in each Proe These also get good Fish of other sorts which they carry home to their Masters The Carpenters use such hatchets as they have at Mindanao They build good Houses after their fashion and they are also ingenious enough in building Proes making very pretty ones especially of that sort which are Flying Proes which are built long deep narrow and sharp with both sides alike and outlagers on each side the Head and Stern like other Boats They carry a great Sail and when the Wind blows hard they send a man or two to sit at the extremity of the Windward outlager to poise the Vessel They build also some Vessels of 10 or 20 Tuns burthen to Trade from one place to another but I think their greatest ingenuity is in building their Flying Proes which are made very smooth kept neat and clean and will sail very well for which reason they had that name given them by the English There are but few Blacksmiths in this Town neither are they very skilful at their Trade The Goldsmiths are commonly strangers yet some of the Achinese themselves know how to work Metals tho not very well The Money-changers are here as at Tonquin most Women These sit in the Markets and at the corners of the Streets with leaden Money called Cash which is a name that is generally given to small money in all these Countreys but the Cash here is neither of the same Metal nor value with that at Tonquin for that is Copper and this is Lead or Block Tin such as will bend about the Finger They have but two sorts of Coin of their own the least sort is this Leaden money call'd Cash and 't is the same with what they call Petties at Bantam Of these 1500 make a Mess which is their other sort of Coin and is a small thin piece of Gold stampt with Malayan Letters on each side It is in value 15 pence English 16 Mess make a Tale which here is 20 s. English 5 Tale make a Bancal a weight so called and 20 Bancal make a Catty another weight But their Gold Coin seldom holds weight for you shall sometimes have 5 Tale and 8 Mess over go to make a Pecul and tho 1500 Cash is the value of a Mess yet these rise and fall at the discretion of the Money-changers for sometimes you shall have 1000 Cash for a Mess but they are kept usually between those 2
her again The Moors Merchants had speedy notice of this action of Captain Thwait and they presently made their Application to the Queen for satisfaction But her affairs at this time being in such posture as I mentioned by reason of their intestine Broyls she said she could do nothing for them It was 11 or 12 a Clock the next day before we who lived ashore heard of Captain Thwaits proceedings but seeing the Moors flock to Court and not knowing what answer they had from the Queen we posted off to the Ships for fear of being imprisoned as some English men had been while I was at Tonquin on the like score Indeed I had at this time great cause to be afraid of a Prison being sick of a flux So that a Prison would have gone near to have killed me yet I think it fared not much better with me for the Ships I fled to afforded me but little comfort For I knew no man aboard the Dorothy and could expect no comfort there So I and the rest went aboard the Nelligree where we could more reasonably expect relief than in a Ship that came from England for these which come so long a Voyage are just victualled for the Service and the Seamen have every one their stinted allowance out of which they have little enough to spare to Strangers But tho there were Victuals enough aboard the Nellegree yet so weak as I then was I had more mind to rest my self than to eat and the Ship was so pestered with Goods that I could not find a place to hang up my Hammock in Therefore it being fair weather I made a shift to lye in the Boat that I came aboard in My Flux was violent and I sleept but little so I had the opportunity of observing the Moon totally Eclipsed had I been in a condition to observe any thing As soon as I perceiv'd the Moon to be Eclipsed I gazed at it indeed as I lay till it was totally obscured which was a pretty while but I was so little curious that I remembred not so much as what day of the Month it was and I kept no Journal of this Voyage as I did of my other but only kept an account of several particular Remarks and Observations as they occurred to me I lay 3 or 4 days thus in this Boat and the people of the Ship were so kind as to provide me with necessaries and by this time the Moors had got a Pass from the Dutch Captain then in the Road for 4 or 500 Dollars as I was then told and Captain Thwait delivered them their Ship again but what terms he made with them I know not Thus that fray was over and we came ashore again recovered of the fright we had been in In a short time also after this the Achinese all agreed to own the new Queen and so the War ended without any Bloodshed I was perswaded to wash in the River Mornings and Evenings for the recovery of my Health and tho it seemed strange to me before I tryed it yet I found so much comfort in the first trial that I constantly applyed my self to it I went into the River till the water was as high as my waste and then I stooped down and sound the water so cool and refreshing to my body that I was always loth to go out again Then I was sensible that my Bowels were very hot for I found a great heat within me which I found refresht by the cool water My food was Salt fish broyled and boyled Rice mixt with Tire Tire is sold about the Streets there 't is thick sower Milk It is very cooling and the Salt-fish and Rice is binding therefore this is thought there the proper food for the common People when they have Fluxes But the Richer sort will have Sago which is brought to Achin from other Countries and Milk of Almonds But to return to the state of Achin before I go off from it I shall add this short account of the Seasons of year there that their weather is much the same as in other Countries North of the Line and their dry Seasons Rains and Land floods come much at the same time as at Tonquin and other places of North Latitude Only as Achin lies within a few Degrees of the Line so upon the Suns crossing the Line in March the Rains begin a little sooner there than in Countries nearer the Tropick of Cancer and when they are once set in they are as violent there as any where I have seen it Rain there for 2 or 3 days without intermission and the River running but a short course its head not lying very far within Land it soon overflows and a great part of the Street of the City shall on a sudden be all under water at which time people row up and down the Streets in Canoas That side of the City towards the River especially where the Fo eign Merchants live and which is lower ground is frequently under water in the Wet Season a Ships Longboat has come up to the very Gate of our English Factory laden with Goods which at other times is ground dry enough at a good distance from the River and moderately raised above it I did not find the heat there any thing different from other places in that Latitude tho I was there both in the wet and dry Season 'T is more supportable than at Tonquin and they have constantly the Refreshment of Sea and Land Breezes every 24 hours CHAP VIII The A. prepares to go for Pegu. Among others a Ship arrives here from Merga in Siam Of the Massacre of the English there His intended Cargo for Pegu. The Arrival of other English men from the City of Siam The A. sets out for Malacca instead of Pegu. They are becalmed and soon after in great danger of running aground The Coast of Sumatra from Diamond point to the R. Dilly They water there and at Pulo Verero where they meet a Ship of Danes and Moors from Trangambar Pulo Arii and Pulo Parselore a useful Sea-mark to avoid Sholes near Malacca Shore The A. arrives at Malacca Town The Town and its Forts described the Conquest of it by the Dutch from the Portuguese Chinese and other Merchants residing here The Sale of Flesh and Fish the Fruits and Animals The Shabander State of the Trade and Guardships Opium a good Commodity among the Malayans Rattan Cables They prepare for their Return back to Achin AS soon as I was pretty well recovered I was Shipt Mate of the Sloop that came from Malacca with us which Mr Wells had sold to Captain Tyler who lately come from Siam and I was sent aboard to take possession of her about the beginning of May 1689. He who was designed to mand her came to Achin Mate of the Nellegree and we were now to go to Pegu but before the middle of June he left the employ being sick and loth to go at this dead time of the year to
therefore it is wholly unfrequented by Shipping Keyhooca is a large rich Town of good Trade about 4 Leagues from the River Guasickwalp on the West side It is inhabited with some few Spaniards and abundance of Mulatoes These keep many Mules they being most Carriers and frequently visit the Cacao Coast for Nuts and travel the Country between Villa de Mose and La Vera Cruz. This Country is pleasant enough in the dry Season but when the furious North Winds rage on the Coast and violently drive in the Sea it suffers extreamly being so much overflown that there is no travelling It was in the wet Season when Capt. Rives and Capt. Hewet made an Expedition in Canoas from the Island Trist to the River Guasickwalp and there Landed their Men designing to attack Keyhooca but the Country was so wet that there was no Marching neither was the Water high enough for a Canoa Here are great plenty of Vinellos From the River Guasickwalp the Land runs West 2 or 3 Leagues all low Land with sandy Bay to the Sea and very woody in the Country About three Leagues to the West of it the Land trends away to the North for about 16 Leagues rising higher also even from the very shore as you go up within Land making a very high Promontory called St. Martins Land but ending in a pretty bluff Point which is the West Bounds of the Bay of Campeachy From this blunt Point to Alvarado is about 20 Leagues the first four of it a high rocky shore with steep Cliffs to the Sea and the Land somewhat woody Afterwards you pass by very high Sand-hills by the Sea and an extraordinary great Sea falls in on the shore which hinders any Boats from Landing Within the Sand-hills again the Land is lower pretty plain and fruitful enough in large Trees The River of Alvarado is above a Mile over at the Mouth yet the entrance is but shole there being Sands for near two Mile off the shore clear from side to side nevertheless there are two Channels through these Sands The best which is in the middle has 12 or 14 Foot Water The Land on each side of the Mouth is high Sand-banks above 200 Foot high This River comes out of the Country in three Branches meeting altogether just within the Mouth where it is very wide and deep One of these Branches comes from the Eastward Another from the Westward And the third which is the true River of Alvarado and the biggest comes directly out of the Country opposite to the Sand-hills about a Mile West of the Rivers Mouth This last springs a great way from the Sea passing through a very fertile Country thick settled with Towns of Spaniards and Indians On the West side and just against the Mouth of the River the Spaniards have a small Fort of 6 Guns on the declivity of the Sand-bank a great heighth above the River which commands a small Spanish Town on the Back of it built in a Plain close by the River It is a great Fishery chiefly for Snooks which they catch in the Lake and when they are salted and dryed drive a great Trade in Exchanging them for Salt and other Commodities Besides salt Fish they export from hence abundance of dry Cod-Pepper and some pickled and put in Jars This Pepper is known by the Name of Guinea Pepper Yet for all this Trade 't is but a poor Place and yet has been often taken by the Privateers chiefly to secure their Ships while they should go up in their Canoas to the rich Towns within Land which notwithstanding they never yet attempted by reason that La Vera Cruz bordering so near they were still afraid of being attacqued both by Sea and Land from thence and so never durst prosecute their designs on the Country Towns Six Leagues West from Alvarado there is another large Opening out into the Sea and it is reported to have a Communication by a small Creek with this River of Alvarado and that Canoas may pass through it from one River to the other And at this Opening is a small Fishing Village The Land by the Sea is a continued high Sand-bank and so violent a Sea that it is impossible to Land with Boat or Canoa From this River to La Vera Cruz is 6 Leagues more the Coast still West There is a Riff of Rocks runs along the shore from Alvarado to Vera Cruz yet a good Channel for small Vessels to pass between it and the shore And about two Leagues to the East of Vera Cruz are two Islands called Sacrifice Islands I have set down the distance between Alvarado and La Vera Cruz according to the Common Account of 12 Leagues which I take to be truer but our Draughts make it 24. The Land by the Sea is much the same La Vera Cruz is a fair Town seated in the very bottom of the Bay of Mexico at the S. W. Point or Corner of the Bay for so far the Land runs West and there it turns about to the North. There is a good Harbour before it made by a small Island or Rock rather just in its Mouth which makes it very Commodious Here the Spaniards have built a strong Fort which commands the Harbour and there are great Iron Rings fix'd in the Fort-Wall against the Harbour for Ships to fasten their Cables For the North Winds blow so violently here in their Seasons that Ships are not safe at Anchors This Fort is called St. John d'Ulloa and the Spaniards do frequently call the Town of Vera Cruz by this Name The Town is a Place of great Trade being the Sea-Port to the City of Mexico and most of the great Towns and Cities in this Kingdom So that all the European Commodities spent in these Parts are Landed here and their Goods brought hither and Exported from hence Add to this that all the Treasure brought from Manila in the East Indies comes hither through the Country from Accapulca The Flota comes hither every three Years from Old Spain and besides Goods of the Product of the Country and what is brought from the East Indies and ship'd aboard them The King's Plate that is gathered in this Kingdom together with what belongs to the Merchants amounts to a vast Summ. Here also comes every Year the Barralaventa Fleet in October or November and stays till March. This is a small Squadron consisting of 6 or 7 Sail of stout Ships from 20 to 50 Guns These are ordered to visit all the Spanish Sea-Port Towns once every Year chiefly to hinder Foreigners from Trading and to suppress Privateers From this Port they go to the Havana on the North side of Cuba to sell their Commodities From hence they pass through the Gulph of Florida standing so far to the North as to be out of the Trade-Winds which are commonly between 30 d. and 40 d. of Lat. and being in a variable Winds-way they stretch away to the Eastwards till they may fetch Portarica if
minded to travel from the North to the South Seas they may do it without asking leave of the Indians though it be much better to be friends with them On the 24th of May having lain one night at the Rivers mouth we all went on board the Privateer who lay at La Sound s Key It was a French Vessel Captain Tristian Commander The first thing we did was to get such things as we could to gratifie our Indian Guides for we were resolved to reward them to their hearts content This we did by giving them Beads Knives Scissars and Looking-glasses which we bought of the Privateers Crew and half a Dollar a man from each of us which we would have bestowed in goods also but could not get any the Privateer having no more toys They were so well satisfy d with these that they return'd with joy to their friends and were very kind to our Consorts whom we left behind as Mr. Wafer our Chyrurgeon and the rest of them told us when they came to us some months afterwards as shall be said hereafter I might have given a further account of several things relating to this Country the In-land parts of which are so little known to the Europeans But I shall leave this province to Mr. Wafer who made a longer abode in it than I and is better able to do it than any man that I know and is now preparing a particular Description of this Country for the Press a Map of the Middle Part of AMERICA CHAP. III. The Authors cruising with the Privateers in the North Seas on the West-India Coast. They go to the Isle of St. Andreas Of the Cedars there The Corn-Islands and their Inhabitants Blewfields River and an Account of the Manatee there or Sea-Cow with the manner how the Moskito Indians kill them and Tortoise c. The Maho tree The Savages of Bocca-toro He touches again at Point Samballas and its Islands The Groves of Sapadillaes there the Soldier-Insect and Manchaneel Tree The River of Darien and the Wild Indians near it Monastery of Madre de Popa Rio Grande Santa Martha Town and the high Mountain there Rio la Hacha Town Rancho Reys and Pearl-Fishery there the Indian Inhabitants and Country Dutch Isle of Querisao c. Count D'Estree 's unfortunate Expedition thither Isle of Bon Airy Isle of Aves the Booby and Man of War Bird The Wreck of D Estree 's Fleet and Captain Pain 's Adventure here Little Isle of Aves The Isles Roca's the Noddy and Tropick Bird Mineral Water Egg-Birds the Mangrove Trees black red and white Isle of Tortuga its Salt-Ponds Isle of Blanco the Guano Animal their Variety and the best Sea-Tortoise Modern Alterations in the West-Indies The Coast of Caraccus its remarkable Land and Product of the best Cacao Nuts The Cacao described at large with the Husbandry of it City of Caraccos La Guiare Fort and Haven Town of Comana Verina its famous best Spanish Tobacco The rich Trade of the Coast of Caraccos Of the Sucking Fish or Remora The Authors Arrival in Virginia THe Privateer on board which we went being now clean'd and our Indian Guides thus satisfy'd and set ashore we set sail in two days for Springer's Key another of the Samballoe's Isles and about 7 or 8 leagues from La Sound 's Key Here lay 8 sail of Privateers more viz. Capt. Coxon 10 Guns 100 Men. English Commanders and Englishmen Capt. Payne 10 Guns 100 Men. Capt. Wright 4 Guns 40 Men. a Barcolongo Capt. Williams a small Barcolongo Capt. Yankes a Barco-longo 4 Guns about 60 Men English Dutch and French himself a Dutchman Capt. Archemboe 8 Guns 40 Men. French Commanders and Men. Capt. Tucker 6 Guns 70 Men. Capt. Rose a Barco-longo An hour before we came to the Fleet Captain Wright who had been sent to Chagra River arrived at Springer's Key with a large Canoa or Pereago laden with Flower which he took there Some of the Prisoners belonging to the Pereago came from Panama not above 6 days before he took her and told the news of our coming over land and likewise related the condition and strength of Panama which was the main thing they enquired after for Captain Wright was sent thither purposely to get a Prisoner that was able to inform them of the strength of that City because these Privateers designed to joyn all their force and by the assistance of the Indians who had promised to be their Guides to march over land to Panama and there is no other way of getting Prisoners for that purpose but by absconding between Chagra and Portabell because there are much Goods brought that way from Panama especially when the Armado lyeth at Portabell All the Commanders were aboard of Captain Wright when we came into the Fleet and were mighty inquisitive of the Prisoners to know the truth of what they related concerning us But as soon as they knew we were come they immediately came aboard of Captain Tristian being all overjoy'd to see us for Captain Coxon and many others had left us in the South Seas about 12 months since and had never heard what became of us since that time They enquired of us what we did there how we lived how far we had been and what discoveries we made in those Seas After we had answered these general questions they began to be more particular in examining us concerning our passage through the Country from the South Seas We related the whole matter giving them an account of the fatigues of our march and the inconveniencies we suffered by the rains and disheartned them quite from that design Then they proposed several other places where such a party of men as were now got together might make a Voyage but the objections of some or other still hinder'd any proceeding For the Privateers have an account of most Towns within 20 leagues of the Sea on all the Coast from Trinidado down to La Vera Cruz and are able to give a near guess of the strength and riches of them For they make it their business to examine all Prisoners that fall into their hands concerning the Country Town or City that they belong to whether born there or how long they have known it how many families whether most Spaniards or whether the major part are not Copper-colour'd as Mulattoes Mustesoes or Indians whether rich and what their riches do consist in and what their chiefest manufactures If fortified how many great Guns and what number of small Arms Whether it'is possible to come undescried on them How many Look-outs or Centinels for such the Spaniards always keep and how the Look-outs are placed Whether possible to avoid the Look-outs or take them If any River or Creek comes near it or where the best Landing with innumerable other such questions which their curiosities lead them to demand And if they have had any former discourse of such places from other Prisoners they compare one with the other then examine again and enquire if
Accounts is now nothing but a Name For I have lain ashore in the place where that City stood but it is all overgrown with Wood so as to leave no sign that any Town hath been there We staid at the Isle of Blanco not above 10 days and then went back to Salt-Tortuga again where Captain Yanky parted with us and from thence after about 4 days all which time our men were drunk and quarrelling we in Captain Wright's Ship went to the Coast of Caraccos on the Main Land This Coast is upon several accounts very remarkable 'T is a continu'd tract of high Ridges of Hills and small Valleys intermix'd for about â—…o leagues stretching East and West but in such manner that the Ridges of Hills and the Valleys alternately run pointing upon the shore from South to North the Valleys some of them about 4 or 5 others not above 1 or 2 furlongs wide and in length from the Sea scarce any of them above 3 or 4 mile at most there being a long Ridge of Mountains at that distance from the Sea-Coast and in a manner parallel to it that joins those shorter Ridges and closeth up the South end of the Valleys which at the North ends of them lye open to the Sea and make so many little Sandy Bays that are the only Landing-places on all the Coast. Both the main Ridge and these shorter Ribs are very high Land so that 3 or 4 leagues off at Sea the Valleys scarce appear to the Eye but all looks like one great Mountain From the Isles of Roda's about 15 and from the Isle of Aves about 20 leagues off we see this Coast very plain from on board our Ships yet when at Anchor on this Coast we cannot see those Isles tho again from the tops of these Hills they appear as if at no great distance like so many Hillocks in a Pond These Hills are barren except the lower sides of them that are cover'd with some of the same rich black Mould that fills the Valleys and is as good as I have seen In some of the Valleys there is a strong red Clay but in the general they are extremely fertil well watered and inhabited by Spaniards and their Negro's They have Maiz and Plantains for their support with Indian Fowls and some Hogs But the main product of these Valleys and indeed the only Commodity it vends are the Cacao-Nuts of which the Chocolate is made The Cacao-Tree grows no where in the North Seas but in the Bay of Campechy on Costa Rica between Portabel and Nicaragua chiefly up Carpenters River and on this Coast as high as the Isle of Trinidada In the South Seas it grows on the River of Guiaquil a little to the Southward of the Line and in the Valley of Collina on the South side of the Continent of Mexico both which places I shall hereafter describe Besides these I am confident there is no place in the world where the Cacao grows except those in Jamaica of which there are now but few remaining of many and large Walks or Plantations of them found there by the English at their first arrival and since planted by them and even these though there is a great deal of pains and care bestowed on them yet seldom come to any thing being generally blighted The Nuts of this Coast of Caracco's though less than those of Costa Rica which are large flat Nuts yet are better and fatter in my opinion being so very oily that we are forced to use Water in rubbing them up and the Spaniards that live here instead of parching them to get off the Shell before they pound or rub them to make Chocolate do in a manner burn them to dry up the Oil for else they say it would fill them too full of blood drinking Chocolate as they do 5 or 6 times a day My worthy Consort Mr. Ringrose commends most the Guiaquil Nut I presume because he had little knowledge of the rest for being intimately acquainted with him I know the course of his Travels and Experience But I am persuaded had he known the rest so well as I pretend to have done who have at several times been long used to and in a manner lived upon all the several sorts of them above mentioned he would prefer the Caraccos Nut before any other yet possibly the drying up of these Nuts so much by the Spaniards here as I said may lessen their Esteem with those Europeans that use their Chocolate ready rubb'd up so that we always chose to make it up our selves The Cacao-Tree hath a body about a foot and an half thick the largest sort and 7 or 8 foot high to the Branches which are large and spreading like an Oak with a pretty thick smooth dark-green leaf shap'd like that of a Plumb-Tree but larger The Nuts are inclosed in Cods as big as both a Mans fists put together At the broad end of which there is a small tough limber stalk by which they hang pendulous from the body of the Tree in all parts of it from top to bottom scattered at irregular distances and from the greater branches a little way up especially at the joints of them or parting 's where they hang thickest but never on the smaller boughs There may be ordinarily about 20 or 30 of these Cods upon a well-bearing Tree and they have 2 Crops of them in a year one in December but the best in June The Cod it self or Shell is almost half an inch thick neither spongy nor woody but of a substance between both brittle yet harder than the Rind of a Lemmon like which its surface is grained or knobbed but more course and unequal The Cods at first are of a dark Green but the side of them next the Sun of a Muddy Red. As they grow ripe the Green turns to a fine bright Yellow and the Muddy to a more lively beautiful Red very pleasant to the Eye They neither ripen nor are gather'd at once but for three weeks or a month when the Season is the Overseers of the Plantations go every day about to see which are turn'd yellow cutting at once it may be not above one from a Tree The Cods thus gathered they lay in several heaps to sweat and then bursting the Shell with their hands they pull out the Nuts which are the only substance they contain having no stalk or pith among them and excepting that these Nuts lye in regular rows like the grains of Maiz but sticking together and so closely stowed that after they have been once separated it would be hard to place them again in so narrow a compass There are generally near 100 Nuts in a Cod in proportion to the greatness of which for it varies the Nuts are bigger or less When taken out they dry them in the Sun upon Mats spread on the ground after which they need no more care having a thin hard skin of their own and much Oil which preserves them Salt water will
sandy bearing only a few shrubby Trees These Indians plant no manner of Grain or Root but are supplied from other places and commonly keep a stock of Provision to relieve Ships that want for this is the first Settlement that Ships can touch at which come from Panama bound to Lima or any other Port in Peru. The Land being dry and sandy is not fit to produce Crops of Maize which is the reason they plant none There is a Spring of good Water between the Village and the Seas On the back of the Town a pretty way up in the Country there is a very high Mountain towring up like a Sugar-loaf called Monte-Christo It is a very good Sea-mark for there is none like it on all the Coast. The body of this Mountain bears due South from Manta About a mile and half from the Shore right against the Village there is a Rock which is very dangerous because it never appears above water neither doth the Sea break on it because here is seldom any great Sea yet it is now so well known that all Ships bound to this place do easily avoid it A mile within this Rock there is good Anchoring in 6 8 or 10 fathom Water good hard Sand and clear ground And a mile from the Road on the West side there is a shole running out a mile into the Sea From Manta to Cape St. Lorenzo the Land is plain and even of an indifferent heighth See a further account of these Coasts in the Appendix As soon as ever the day appear'd our men landed and march'd towards the Village which was about a mile and a half from their Landing-place Some of the Indians who were stirring saw them coming and alarmed their Neighbours so that all that were able got away They took only two old Women who both said that it was reported that a great many Enemies were come over land thro the Country of Darien into the South Seas and that they were at present in Canoas and Periagoes and that the Vice-Roy upon this news had set out the fore-mentioned order for burning their own Ships Our men found no sort of provision here the Vice-Roy having likewise sent orders to all Sea-ports to keep no provision but just to supply themselves These Women also said that the Manta Indians were sent over to the Island Plata to destroy all the Goats there which they performed about a month agone With this news our men returned again and arriv'd at Plata the next day We lay still at the Island Plata being not resolved what to do till the 2d day of October and then Captain Swan in the Cygnet of London arriv'd there He was fitted out by very eminent Merchants of that City on a design only to trade with the Spaniards or Indians having a very considerable Cargo well sorted for these parts of the World but meeting with divers disappointments and being out of hopes to obtain a trade in these Seas his men forc'd him to entertain a company of Privateers which he met with near Nicoya a Town whither he was going to seek a Trade and these Privateers were bound thither in Boats to get a Ship These were the men that we had heard of at Manta they came over land under the command of Captain Peter Harris Nephew to that Captain Harris who was kill'd before Panama Captain Swan was still Commander of his own Ship and Captain Harris commanded a small Bark under Captain Swan There was much joy on all sides when they arriv'd and immediately hereupon Captain Davis and Captain Swan consorted wishing for Captain Eaton again Our little Bark which was taken at Santa Hellena was immediately sent out to cruize while the Ships were fitting for Captain Swan's Ship being full of goods was not fit to entertain his new guest till the goods were dispos'd of therefore he by the consent of the Supercargo's got up all his goods on Deck and sold to any one that would buy upon trust the rest was thrown over-board into the Sea except fine goods as Silks Muslins Stockings c. and except the Iron whereof he had a good quantity both wrought and in Bars This was saved for Ballast The third day after our Bark was sent to cruize she brought in a Prize of 400 Tuns laden with Timber They took her in the Bay of Guiaquil she came from a Town of that name and was bound to Lima. The Commander of this Prize said that it was generally reported and believed at Guiaquil that the Vice-Roy was fitting out 10 sail of Frigots to drive us out of the Seas This news made our unsettled Crew wish that they had been perswaded to accept of Captain Eaton's company on reasonable terms Captain Davis and Captain Swan had some discourse concerning Captain Eaton they at last concluded to send our small Bark towards the Coast of Lima as far as the Island Lobos to seek Captain Eaton This being approved by all hands she was cleaned the next day and sent away mann'd with 20 men 10 of Captain Davis and 10 of Swan's men and Captain Swan writ a Letter directed to Captain Eaton desiring his company and the Isle of Plata was appointed for the general Rendezvous When this Bark was gone we turn'd another Bark which we had into a Fire-ship having 6 or 7 Carpenters who soon fixt her and while the Carpenters were at work about the Fire-ship we scrubb'd and clean'd our Men of War as well as time and place would permit The 19th day of October we finish'd our business and the 20th day we sail'd toward the Island Lobos where our Bark was order'd to stay for us or meet us again at Plata We had but little Wind therefore it was the 23d day before we passed by Point St. Hellena The 25th day we crossed over the Bay of Guiaquil The 30th day we doubled Cape Blanco This Cape is in lat 3 d. 45 m. It is counted the worst Cape in all the South Seas to double passing to the Southward for in all other places Ships may stand off to Sea 20 or 30 leagues off if they find they cannot get any thing under the shore but here they dare not do it for by relation of the Spaniards they find a current setting N. W. which will carry a Ship off more in 2 hours than they can run in again in 5. Besides setting to the Northward they lose ground therefore they alway beat it up under the shore which oft-times they find very difficult because the wind commonly blows very strong at S. S. W. or S. by W. without altering for here are never any Land-winds This Cape is of an indifferent heighth It is fenced with white Rocks to the Sea for which reason I believe it hath this name The Land in the Country seems to be full of high steep rugged and barren Rocks The 2d day of November we got as high as Payta We lay about 6 leagues off shore all the day that the
many Groves and Spots of Trees that appear in the Savannahs like so many little Islands This City is incompassed with a high Stone Wall the Houses are said to be of Brick Their Roofs appear higher than the top of the City Wall It is beautified with a great many fair Churches and Religious Houses besides the President 's House and other eminent Buildings which altogether make one of the finest objects that I did ever see in America especially There are a great many Guns on her Walls most of which look toward the Land They had none at all against the Sea when I first entered those Seas with Captain Sawkins Captain Coxon Captain Sharp and others for till then they did not fear any Enemy by Sea but since then they have planted Guns clear round This is a flourishing City by reason it is a thorough-fair for all imported or exported Goods and Treasure to and from all parts of Peru and Chili whereof their Store-houses are never empty The Road also is seldom or never without Ships Besides once in 3 years when the Spanish Armada comes to Portobel then the Plate Fleet also from Lima comes hither with the Kings Treasure and abundance of Merchant Ships full of Goods and Plate at that time the City is full of Merchants and Gentlemen the Seamen are busy in landing the Treasure and Goods and the Carriers or Caravan Masters imployed in carrying it over land on Mules in vast droves every day to Portobel and bringing back European Goods from thence Though the City be then so full yet during this heat of business there is no hiring of an ordinary Slave under a piece of Eight a day Houses also Chambers Beds and Victuals are then extraordinary dear Now I am on this subject I think it will not be amiss to give the Reader an account of the progress of the Armada from Old Spain which comes thus every three years into the Indies Its first arrival is at Cartagena from whence as I have been told an Express is immediately sent over land to Lima thro the Southern Continent and another by Sea to Portobel with two Pacquets of Letters one for the Viceroy of Lima the other for the Viceroy of Mexico I know not which way that of Mexico goes after its arrival at Portobel whether by Land or Sea but I believe by Sea to La Vera Cruz. That for Lima is sent by Land to Panama and from thence by Sea to Lima. Upon mention of these Pacquets I shall digress yet a little further and acquaint my Reader that before my first going over into the South Seas with Captain Sharp and indeed before any Privateers at least since Drake and Oxengham had gone that way which we afterwards went except La Sound a French Captain who by Captain Wright's Instructions had ventured as far as Cheap Town with a body of Men but was driven back again I being then on board Capt. Coxon in company with 3 or 4 more Privateers about 4 leagues to the East of Portobel we took the Pacquets bound thither from Cartagena We open'd a great quantity of the Merchants Letters and found the Contents of many of them to be very surprizing the Merchants of several parts of Old Spain thereby informing their Correspondents of Panama and elsewhere of a certain Prophecy that went about Spain that year the tenour of which was That there would be English Privateers that year in the West Indies who would make such great Discoveries as to open a door into the South Seas which they supposed was fastest shut and the Letters were accordingly full of cautions to their Friends to be very watchful and careful of their Coasts This Door they spake of we all concluded must be the passage over Land through the Country of the Indians of Darien who were a little before this become our Friends and had lately fallen out with the Spaniards breaking off the Intercourse which for some time they 'r had with them and upon calling also 〈◊〉 mind the frequent Invitations we had from those Indians a little before this time to pass through their Country and fall upon the Spaniards in the South Seas we from henceforward began to entertain such thoughts in earnest and soon came to a Resolution to make those Attempts which we afterwards did with Capt. Sharp Coxon c. So that the taking these Letters gave the first life to those bold Undertakings and we took the advantage of the fears the Spaniards were in from that Prophecy or probable Conjecture or whatever it were for we sealed up most of the Letters again and sent them ashore to Portobel The occasion of this our late Friendship with those Indians was thus About 15 years before this time Capt. Wright being cruising near that Coast and going in among the Samballoes Isles to strike Fish and Turtle took there a young Indian Lad as he was paddling about in a Canoa He brought him aboard his Ship and gave him the Name of John Gret cloathing him and intending to breed him among the English But his Moskito Strikers taking a fancy to the Boy begg'd him of Captain Wright and took him with them at their return into their own Country where they taught him their Art and he married a Wife among them and learnt their Language as he had done some broken English while he was with Captain Wright which he improved among the Moskitoes who corresponding so much with us do all of them smatter English after a sort but his own Language he had almost forgot Thus he lived among them for many years till about 6 or 8 months before our taking these Letters Captain Wright being again among the Samballoes took thence another Indian Boy about 10 or 12 years old the Son of a Man of some account among those Indians and wanting a Striker he went away to the Moskito's Country where he took in John Gret who was now very expert at it John Gret was much pleased to see a Lad there of his own Country and it came into his mind to persuade Capt. Wright upon this occasion to endeavour a Friendship with those Indians a thing our Privateers had long coveted but never durst attempt having such dreadful apprehensions of their Numbers and Fierceness But John Gret offered the Captain that he would go ashore and negotiate the matter who accordingly sent him in his Canoa till he was near the shore which of a sudden was covered with Indians standing ready with their Bows and Arrows John Gret who had only a Clout about his middle as the fashion of the Indians is leapt then out of the Boat and swam the Boat retiring a little way back and the Indians ashore seeing him in that habit and hearing him call to them in their own Tongue which he had recovered by conversing with the Boy lately taken suffered him quietly to land and gathered all about to hear how it was with him He told them particularly that he was one
to the Island Otoque This is another inhabited Island in the Bay of Panama not so big as Tabago yet there are good Plantain Walks on it and some Negroes to look after them These Negroes rear Fowls and Hogs for their Masters who live at Panama as at the Kings Islands It was for some Fowls or Hogs that our Men went thither but by accident they met also with an Express that was sent to Panama with an account that the Lima Fleet was at Sea Most of the Letters were thrown over board and lost yet we found some that said positively that the Fleet was coming with all the strength that they could make in the Kingdom of Peru yet were ordered not to fight us except they were forced to it though afterwards they chose to fight us having first landed their Treasure at Lavelia and that the Pilots of Lima had been in consultation what course to steer to miss us For the satisfaction of those who may be curious to know I have here inserted the Resolutions taken by the Commitee of Pilots as one of our company translated them out of the Spanish of two of the Letters we took The first Letter as follows SIR HAving been with his Excellency and heard the Letter of Captain Michael Sanches de Tena read wherein he says there should be a meeting of the Pilots of Panama in the said City they say t is not time putting for objection the Gallapagoes to which I answered that it was fear of the Enemy and that they might well go that way I told this to his Excellency who was pleased to command me to write the Course which is as follows The day for sailing being come go forth to the West South West from that to West till you are forty leagues off at Sea then keep at the same distance to the N. W. till you come under the Line from whence the Pilot must shape his Course for Moro de Porco and for the Coast of Lavelia and Natta where you may speak with the people and according to the information they give you may keep the same Course for Otoque from thence to Tabago and so to Panama this is what offers as to the Course The Letter is obscure but the Reader must make what he can of it The Directions in the other Letter were to this Effect THE surest Course to be observed going forth from Malabrigo is thus you must sail W. by S. that you may avoid the sight of the Islands of Lobos and if you should chance to see them by reason of the Breezes and should fall to Leeward of the Lat. of Malabrigo keep on a Wind as near as you can and if necessary go about and stand in for the shore then tack and stand off and be sure keep your Latitude and when you are 40 leagues to the Westward of the Islands Lobos keep that distance till you come under the Line and then if the general Wind follows you farther you must sail N. N. E. till you come into 3 degrees North. And if in this Lat. you should find the breezes make it your business to keep the Coast and so sail for Panama If in your course you should come in sight of the Land before you are abrest of Cape St. Francisco be sure to stretch off again out of sight of Land that you may not be discovered by the Enemy The last Letter supposes the Fleet 's setting out from Malabrigo in about 8 deg South Lat. as the other doth its going immediately from Lima 4 deg further South and from hence is that caution given of avoiding Lobos as near Malabrigo in their usual way to Panama and hardly to be kept out of sight as the Winds are thereabouts yet to be avoided by the Spanish Fleet at this time because as they had twice before heard of the Privateers lying at Lobos de la Mar they knew not but at that time we might be there in expectation of them The 10th day we sailed from Tabago towards the Kings Islands again because our Pilots told us that the Kings Ships did always come this way The 11th day we anchored at the place where we careen'd Here we found Captain Harris who had gone a second time into the River of Santa Maria and fetched the body of Men that last came over land as the Indians had informed us but they fell short of the number they told us of The 19th day we sent 250 Men in 15 Canoas to the River Cheapo to take the Town of Cheapo The 21st day all our Ships but Captain Harris who staid to clean his Ship followed after The 22d day we arrived at the Island Chepelio Chepelio is the pleasantest Island in the Bay of Panama It is but 7 leagues from the City of Panama and a league from the Main This Island is about 2 mile long and almost so broad it is low on the North side and riseth by a small ascent towards the South side The Soil is yellow a kind of clay The high side is stony the low Land is planted with all sorts of delicate Fruits viz. Sapadilloes Avogato-pears Mammees Mammee-Sappota's Star-apples c. The middle of the Island is planted with Plantain Trees which are not very large but the Fruit extraordinary sweet The Sapadillo Tree is as big as a large Pear-tree The Fruit much like a Bergamo-pear both in colour shape and size but on some Trees the Fruit is a little longer When it is green or first gathered the juice is white and clammy and it will stick like glew then the Fruit is hard but after it hath been gathered 2 or 3 days it grows soft and juicy and then the juice is clear as Spring-water and very sweet In the midst of the Fruit are 2 or 3 black stones or seeds about the bigness of the Pumkin seed This is an excellent Fruit. The Avogato Pear-tree is as big as most Pear-trees and is commonly pretty high the skin or bark black and pretty smooth the leaves large of an oval shape and the Fruit as big as a large Lemon It is of a green colour till it is ripe and then it is a little yellowish They are seldom fit to eat till they have been gathered 2 or 3 days then they become soft and the skin or rind will peel off The substance in the inside is green or a little yellowish and as soft as Butter Within the substance there is a stone as big as a Horse-plumb This Fruit hath no taste of its self and therefore 't is usually mixt with Sugar and Lime-juice and beaten together in a Plate and this is an excellent dish The ordinary way is to eat it with a little Salt and a rosted Plantain and thus a man that 's hungry may make a good meal of it It is very wholsome eaten any way It is reported that this Fruit provokes to lust and therefore is said to be much esteemed by the Spaniards and I do believe they are
S. S. W. However about eleven a clock it cleared up and we saw the Spanish Fleet about 3 leagues W. N. W. from the Island Pacheque standing close on a Wind to the Eastward but they could not fetch the Island by a league We were riding a league S. E. from the Island between it and the Main only Captain Gronet was about a mile to the Northward of us near the Island he weighed so soon as they came in sight and stood over for the Main and we lay still expecting when he would tack and come to us but he took care to keep himself out of harms way Captain Swan and Townly came aboard of Captain Davis to order how to engage the Enemy who we saw came purposely to fight us they being in all 14 Sail besides Periagoes rowing with 12 and 14 Oars apiece Six Sail of them were Ships of good force first the Admiral 48 Guns 450 Men the Vice-Admiral 40 Guns 400 Men the Rear-Admiral 36 Guns 360 Men a Ship of 24 Guns 300 Men one of 18 Guns 250 Men and one of eight Guns 200 Men 2 great Fireships 6 Ships only with small Arms having 800 Men on board them all besides 2 or 3 hundred Men in Periagoes This account of their strength we had afterwards from Captain Knight who being to the Windward on the Coast of Peru took Prisoners of whom he had this information being what they brought from Lima. Besides these Men they had also some hundreds of Old Spain Men that came from Portobel and met them at Lavelia from whence they now came and their strength of Men from Lima was 3000 Men being all the strength they could make in that Kingdom and for greater security they had first landed their Treasure at Lavelia Our Fleet consisted of 10 Sail first Captain Davis 36 Guns 156 Men most English Captain Swan 16 Guns 140 Men all English These were the only Ships of force that we had the rest having none but small Arms. Captain Townly had 110 men all English Captain Gronet 308 men all French Captain Harris 100 men most English Captain Branly 36 men some English some French Davis his Tender 8 men Swans Tender 8 men Townlys Bark 80 men and a small Bark of thirty Tuns made a Fireship with a Canoas crew in her We had in all 960 men But Captain Gronet came not to us till all was over yet we were not discouraged at it but resolved to fight them for being to Windward of the Enemy we had it at our choice whether we would fight or not It was 3 a clock in the afternoon when we weighed and being all under sail we bore down right afore the wind on our Enemies who kept close on a wind to come to us but hight came on without any thing beside the exchanging of a few shot on each side When it grew dark the Spanish Admiral put out a light as a signal for his Fleet to come to an Anchor We saw the light in the Admirals top which continued about half an hour and then it was taken down In a short time after we saw the light again and being to Windward we kept under sail supposing the light had been in the Admirals top but as it proved this was only a stratagem of theirs for this light was put out the second time at one of their Barks Topmast-head and then she was sent to Leeward which deceived us for we thought still the Light was in the Admirals top and by that means thought ourselves to windward of them In the morning therefore contrary to our expectation we found they had got the Weather-gage of us and were coming upon us with full Sail so we ran for it and after a running Fight all day and having taken a turn almost round the Bay of Panama we came to an anchor again at the Isle of Pacheque in the very same place from whence we set out in the morning Thus ended this days work and with it all that we had been projecting for 5 or 6 months when instead of making our selves Masters of the Spanish Fleet and Treasure we were glad to escape them and owed that too in a great measure to their want of courage to pursue their advantage The 30th day in the morning when we looked out we saw the Spanish Fleet all together 3 leagues to Leeward of us at an anchor It was but little wind till 10 a clock and then sprung up a small breeze at South and the Spanish Fleet went away to Panama What loss they had I know not we lost but one Man and having held a consult we resolved to go to the Keys of Quibo or Cobaya to seek Captain Harris who was forced away from us in the Fight that being the place appointed for our Rendezvous upon any such accident As for Gronet he said his Men would not suffer him to join us in the Fight but we were not satisfied with that excuse so we suffer'd him to go with us to the Isles of Quiboa and there cashier'd our cowardly Campanion Some were for taking from him the Ship which we had given him but at length he was suffered to keep it with his Men and we sent them away in it to some other place CHAP. VIII They set out from Tabago Isle of Chuche The Mountain called Moro de Porcos The Coast to the Westward of the Bay of Panama Isles of Quibo Quicaro Rancheria The Palma-Maria tree The Isles Canales and Cantarras They build Canoas for a New Expedition and take Puebla Nova Captain Knight joins them Canoas how made The Coast and Winds between Quibo and Nicoya Volcan Vejo again Tornadoes and the Sea rough Ria Lexa Harbour The City of Leon taken and burnt Ria Lexa Creek the Town and Commodities the Guava fruit and Prickle-Pear A Ransom paid honourably upon Parole The Town burnt Captain Davis and others go off for the South Coast. A contagious Sickness at Ria Lexa Terrible Tornadoes The Volcan of Guatimala the rich Commodities of that Country Indico Otta or Anatta Cochineel Silvester Drift Wood and Pumice Stones The Coast further on to the North-west Captain Townley 's fruitless Expedition towards Tecoantepeque The Island Tangola and neighbouring Continent Guatulco Port. The Buffadore or Water spout Ruins of Guatulco Village The Coast adjoining Captain Townly marches to the River Capalita Turtle at Guatulco An Indian Settlement The Vinello Plant and Fruit. ACcording to the Resolutions we had taken we set out June the 1st 1685. passing between Point Garachina and the Kings Islands The Wind was at S. S. W. rainy weather with Tornadoes of Thunder and Lightning The 3d day we passed by the Island Chuche the last remainder of the Isles in the Bay of Panama This is a small low round woody Island uninhabited lying 4 leagues S. S. W. from Pacheca In our passage to Quibo Captain Branly lost his Main-Mast therefore he and all his Men left his Bark and came
had one man shot through the Thigh Afterward they went into a Lagune or Lake of Salt-water where they found much dried Fish and brought some aboard We being now abrest of that place sent in a Canoa mann'd with 12 men for more Fish The mouth of this Lagune is not Pistol-shot wide and on both sides are pretty high Rocks so conveniently placed by nature that many men may abscond behind and within the Rock the Lagune opens wide on both sides The Spaniards being allarmed by our 2 Canoas that had been there 2 or 3 days before came armed to this place to secure their Fish and seeing our Canoa coming they lay snug behind the Rocks and suffered the Canoa to pass in then they fired their Vōlley and wounded 5 of our men Our people were a little surprized at this sudden adventure yet fired their Guns and rowed farther into the Lagune for they durst not adventure to come out again through the narrow entrance which was near a quarter of a mile in length Therefore they rowed into the middle of the Lagune where they lay out of Gun-shot and looked about to see if there was not another passage to get out at broader than that by which they entered but could see none So they lay still 2 days and 3 nights in hopes that we should come to seek them but we lay off at Sea about 3 leagues distant waiting for their return supposing by their long absence that they had made some greater discovery and were gone farther than the Fish-range because it is usual with Privateers when they enter upon such designs to search farther than they proposed if they meet any encouragement But Captain Townly and his Bark being nearer the shore heard some Guns fired in the Lagune So he mann'd his Canoa and went towards the shore and beating the Spaniards away from the Rocks made a free passage for our men to come out of their pound where else they must have been starved or knocked on the head by the Spaniards They came aboard their Ships again the 31st of October This Lagune is about the lat of 16 d. 40 m. North. From hence we made sail again coasting to the Westward having fair weather and a Current setting to the West The second day of November we past by a Rock called by the Spaniards the Algatross The Land hereabout is of an indifferent height and woody and more within the Country Mountainous Here are 7 or 8 white cliffs by the Sea which are very remarkable because there are none so white and so thick together on all the Coast. They are 5 or 6 mile to the West of the Algatross Rock There is a dangerous shoal lieth S. by W. from these Cliffs 4 or 5 mile off at Sea Two leagues to the West of these Cliffs there is a pretty large River which forms a small Island at its mouth The Channel on the East side is but shoal and sandy but the West Channel is deep enough for Canoas to enter On the Banks of this Channel the Spaniards have made a Brestwork to hinder an Enemy from landing or filling Water The 3d day we anchored abrest of this River in 14 fathom Water about a mile and a half off shore The next morning we mann'd our Canoas and went ashore to the Brestwork with little resistance although there were about 200 men to keep us off They fired about 20 or 30 Guns at us but seeing we were resolved to land they quitted the place one chief reason why the Spaniards are so frequently routed by us although many times much our superiors in numbers and in many places fortified with Brestworks is their want of small Fire-arms for they have but few on all the Sea Coasts unless near their larger Garrisons Here we found a great deal of Salt brought hither as I judge for to salt Fish which they take in the Lagunes The Fish I observed here mostly were what we call Snooks neither a Sea-fish nor fresh Water-fish but very numerous in these salt Lakes This Fish is about a foot long and round and as thick as the small of a mans Leg with a pretty long head It hath Scales of a whitish colour and is good meat How the Spaniards take them I know not for we never found any Nets Hooks or Lines neither yet any Bark Boat or Canoa among them on all this Coast except the Ship I shall mention at Acapulco We marched 2 or 3 leagues into the Country and met with but one House where we took a Mulatto Prisoner who informed us of a Ship that was lately arrived at Acapulco she came from Lima. Captain Townly wanting a good Ship thought now he had an opportunity of getting one if he could perswade his men to venture with him into the Harbour of Acapulco and fetch this Lima Ship out Therefore he immediately proposed it and found not only all his own men willing to assist him but many of Captain Swan's men also Captain Swan opposed it because Provision being scarce with us he thought our time might be much better imployed in first providing our selves with food and here was plenty of Maiz in the River where we now were as we were informed by the same Prisoner who offered to conduct us to the place where it was But neither the present necessity nor Captain Swan's perswasion availed any thing no nor yet their own interest for the great design we had then in hand was to lye and wait for a rich Ship which comes to Acapulco every year richly laden from the Philippine Islands But it was necessary we should be well stored with Provisions to enable us to cruize about and wait the time of her coming However Townley's Party prevailing we only fill'd our Water here and made ready to be gone So the 5th day in the afternoon we sailed again coasting to the westward towards Acapulco The 7th day in the afternoon being about 12 leagues from the shore we saw the high Land of Acapulco which is very remarkable for there is a round Hill standing between other 2 Hills the westermost of which is the biggest and highest and hath two Hillocks like two paps on its top the eastermost Hill is higher and sharper than the middlemost From the middle Hill the Land declines toward the Sea ending in a high round point There is no Land shaped like this on all the Coast. In the evening Captain Townly went away from the Ships with 140 men in 12 Canoas to try to get the Lima Ship out of Acapulco Harbour Acapulco is a pretty large Town 17 degrees North of the Equator It is the Sea-port for the City of Mexico on the West side of the Continent as La Vera-Cruz or St. John d' Ulloa in the Bay of Nova Hispania is on the North side This Town is the only place of Trade on all this Coast for there is little or no Traffick by Sea on all the N. W. part of this vast Kingdom
Corrientes to wait for the Phillippine Ship So the 6th day of December we set sail coasting to the Westwards towards Cape Corrientes We had fair weather and but little Wind the Sea breezes at N. W. and the Land-wind at N. The Land is of an indifferent heighth full of ragged points which at a distance appear like Islands the Country is very woody but the Trees are not high nor very big Here I was taken sick of a Fever and Ague that afterwards turned to a Dropsy which I laboured under a long time after and many of our Men died of this distemper though our Surgeons used their greatest skill to preserve their lives The Dropsy is a general distemper on this Coast and the Natives say that the best remedy they can find for it is the Stone or Cod of an Allegator of which they have 4 one near each Leg within the Flesh pulverized and drunk in Water this Receipt we also found mentioned in an Almanack made at Mexico I would have tried it but we found no Allegators here though there are several There are many good Harbours between Sallagua and Cape Corrientes but we passed by them all As we drew near the Cape the Land by the Sea appeared of an indifferent heighth full of white Cliffs but in the Country the Land is high and barren and full of sharp peeked Hills unpleasant to the sight To the West of this ragged Land is a chain of Mountains running parallel with the shore they end on the West with a gentle descent but on the East side they keep their heighth ending with a high steep Mountain which hath 3 small sharp peeked tops somewhat resembling a Crown and therefore called by the Spaniards Coronada the Crown Land The 11th day we were fair in sight of Cape Corrientes it bore N. by W. and the Crown Land bore North. The Cape is of an indifferent heighth with steep Rocks to the Sea It is flat and even on the top cloathed with Woods the Land in the Country is high and doubled This Cape lieth in 20 d. 28 m. North. I find its longitude from Tenariff to be 230 d. 56 m. but I keep my longitude Westward according to our course and according to this reckoning I find it is from the Lizard in England 121 d. 41 m. so that the difference of time is 8 hours and almost 6 minutes Here we had resolved to cruize for the Phillippine Ship because she always makes this Cape in her Voyage homeward We were as I have said 4 Ships in company Captain Swan and his Tender Captain Townly and his Tender It was so ordered that Captain Swan should lye 8 or 10 leagues off shore and the rest about a league distant each from other between him and the Cape that so we might not miss the Philippine Ship but we wanted Provision and therefore we sent Captain Townly's Bark with 50 or 60 men to the West of the Cape to search about for some Town or Plantations where we might get Provision of any sort The rest of us in the mean time cruizing in our stations The 17th day the Bark came to us again but had got nothing for they could not get about the Cape because the wind on this Coast is commonly between the N. W. and the S. W. which makes it very difficult getting to the Westward but they left 4 Canoas with 46 men at the Cape who resolved to row to the Westward The 18th day we sailed to the Keys of Chametly to fill our Water These Keys or Islands of Chametly are about 16 or 18 leagues to the Eastward of Cape Corrientes They are small low and woody invironed with Rocks there are 5 of them lying in the form of a half Moon not a mile from the shore and between them and the Main is very good Riding secure from any Wind. The Spaniards do report that here live Fishermen to fish for the Inhabitants of the City of Purification This is said to be a large Town the best hereabouts but is 14 leagues up in the Country The 20th instant we entered within these Islands passing in on the S. E. side and anchored between the Islands and the Main in 5 fathom clean Sand. Here we found good fresh Water and Wood and caught plenty of Rock-fish with Hook and Line a sort of Fish I describ'd at the Isle of John Fernando but we saw no sign of Inhabitants besides 3 or 4 old Hutts therefore I do believe that the Spanish or Indian Fishermen come hither only at Lent or some other such season but that they do not live here constantly The 21st day Captain Townly went away with about 60 men to take an Indian Village 7 or 8 leagues from hence to the Westward more towards the Cape and the next day we went to cruize off the Cape where Captain Townly was to meet us The 24th day as we were cruizing off the Cape the 4 Canoas before mentioned which Captain Townly's Bark left at the Cape came off to us They after the Bark left them past to the West of the Cape and rowed into the Valley Valderas or perhaps Val d' Iris for it signifies the Valley of Flags This Valley lies in the bottom of a pretty deep Bay that runs in between Cape Corrientes on the S. E. and the point of Pontique on the N. W. which two places are about 10 leagues asunder The Valley is about 3 leagues wide there is a level sandy Bay against the Sea and good smooth landing In the midst of the Bay is a fine River whereinto Boats may enter but it is brackish at the latter end of the dry Season which is in February March and part of April I shall speak more of the Seasons in my Chapter of Winds in the Appendix This Valley is bounded within Land with a small green Hill that makes a very gentle descent into the Valley and affords a very pleasant prospect to Sea-ward It is inriched with fruitful Savannahs mixt with Groves of Trees fit for any uses beside Fruit Trees in abundance as Guava's Oranges and Limes which here grow wild in such plenty as if Nature had designed it only for a Garden The Savannahs are full of fat Bulls and Cows and some Horses but no House in sight When our Canoas came to this pleasant Valley they landed 37 men and marched into the Country seeking for some Houses They had not gone past 3 mile before they were attackt by 150 Spaniards Horse and Foot There was a small thin Wood close by them into which our men retreated to secure themselves from the fury of the Horse Yet the Spaniards rode in among them and attackt them very furiously till the Spnnish Captain and 17 more tumbled dead off their Horses then the rest retreated being many of them wounded We lost 4 men and had 2 desperately wounded In this action the Foot who were armed with Lances and Swords and were the greatest number never made any attack
vocal Musick here by what I could learn except only a row of a kind of Bells without clappers 16 in number and their weight increasing gradually from about 3 to 10 pound weight These were set in a row on a Table on the Generals House where for 7 or 8 days together before the Circumcision day they were struck each with a little stick for the biggest part of the day making a great noise and they ceased that morning So these dancing Women sung themselves and danced to their own Musick After this the General 's Women and the Sultans Sons and his Nieces danced Two of the Sultans Nieces were about 18 or 19 years old the other two were 3 or 4 years younger These young Ladies were very richly drest with loose Garments of Silk and small Coronets on their Heads They were much fairer than any Women that I did ever see there and very well featured and their Noses tho but small yet higher than the other Womens and very well proportioned When the Ladies had very well diverted themselves and the company with dancing the General caused us to fire some Sky-rockets that were made by his and Captain Swan's order purposely for this nights solemnity and after that the Sultan and his retinue went away with a few attendants and we all broke up and thus ended this days solemnity but the Boys being sore with their Amputation went straddling for a fortnight after They are not as I said before very curious or strict in observing any days or times of particular Devotions except it be the Ramdam time as we call it The Ramdam time was then in August as I take it for it was shortly after our arrival here In this time they fast all day and about 7 a clock in the evening they spend near an hour in Prayer Towards the latter end of their Prayer they loudly invoke their Prophet for about a quarter of an hour both old and young bawling out very strangely as if they intended to fright him out of his sleepiness or neglect of them After their Prayer is ended they spend sometime in feasting before they take their repose Thus they do every day for a whole month at least for sometimes 't is 2 or 3 days longer before the RAmdam ends for it begins at the new Moon and lasts till they see the next new Moon which sometimes in thick hazy Weather is not till 3 or 4 days after the change as it happen'd while I was at Achin where they continued the Ramdam till the new Moons appearance The next day after they have seen the new Moon the Guns are all discharged about noon and then the time ends A main part of their Religion consists in washing often to keep themselves from being desiled or after they are defiled to cleanse themselves again They also take great care to keep themselves from being polluted by tasting or touching any thing that is accounted unclean therefore Swines flesh is very abominable to them nay any one that hath either tasted of Swines flesh or touched those Creatures is not permitted to come into their Houses in many days after and there is nothing will scare them more than a Swine Yet there are wild Hogs in the Islands and those so plentiful that they will come in Troops out of the Woods in the night into the very City and come under their Houses to romage up and down the filth that they find there The Natives therefore would even desire us to lye in wait for the Hogs to destroy them which we did frequently by shooting them and carrying them presently on board but were prohibited their Houses afterwards And now I am on this subject I cannot omit a story concerning the General He once desired to have a pair of Shoes made after the English fashion tho he did very seldom wear any So one of our men made him a pair which the General liked very well Afterwards some body told him that the Thread wherewith the Shoes were sowed were pointed with Hogs bristles This put him into a great passion so he sent the Shoes to the man that made them and sent him withal more Leather to make another pair with Threads pointed with some other hair which was immediately done and then he was well pleased CHAP. XIII Their coasting along the Isle of Mindanao from a Bay on the East side to another at the S. E. end Tornadoes and boisterous Weather The S. E. Coast and its Savannah and plenty of Deer They coast along the South side to the River of Mindanao City and anchor there The Sultans Brother and Son come aboard them and invite them to settle there Of the Feasibleness and probable Advantage of such a Settlement from the Neighbouring Gold and Spice Islands Of the best way to Mindanao by the South Sea and Terra Australis and of an accidental Discovery there by Captain Davis and a probability of a greater The capacity they were in to settle here The Mindanaians measure their Ship Captain Swan 's Present to the Sultan his Reception of it and Audience given to Captain Swan with Raja Laut the Sultans Brother's Entertainment of him The Contents of 2 English Letters shewn them by the Sultan of Mindanao Of the Commodities and the Punishment there The Generals Caution how to demean themselves at his Persuasion they lay up their Ships in the River The Mindanaians Caresses The great Rains and Floods at the City The Mindanaians have Chinese Accomptants How their Women dance A Story of one John Thacker Their Bark eaten up and their Ship indanger'd by the Worm Of the Worms here and elsewhere Of Captain Swan Raja Laut the General 's Deceitfulness Hunting wild Kine The Prodigality of some of the English Captain Swan treats with a young Indian of a Spice-Island A Hunting Voyage with the General His punishing a Servant of his Of his Wives and Women A sort of strong Rice Drink The Generals foul Dealing and Exactions Captain Swan s Uneasiness and indiscreet Management His Men mutiny Of a Snake twisting about one of their Necks The main part of the Crew go away with the Ship leaving Captain Swan and some of his Men several others poysoned there HAving in the two last Chapters given some account of the Natural Civil and Religious State of Mindanao I shall now go on with the prosecution of our affairs during our stay there 'T was in a Bay on the N. East side of the Island that we came to an anchor as hath been said We lay in this Bay but one night and part of the next day Yet there we got speech with some of the Natives who by signs made us understand that the City Mindanao was on the West side of the Island We endeavoured to perswade one of them to go with us to be our Pilot but he would not Therefore in the afternoon we loosed from hence steering again to the South East having the Wind at S. W. When we came to
which we did set here also our old one being very faulty They made a new Fore-Yard too and a Fore Top-Mast and our Pumps being faulty and not serviceable they did cut a Tree to make a Pump They first squared it then sawed it in the middle and then hollowed each side exactly The two hollow sides were made big enough to contain a Pump-box in the midst of them both when they were joyned together and it required their utmost skill to close them exactly to the making a tight Cylinder for the Pump-box being unaccustomed to such work We learnt this way of Pump-making from the Spaniards who make their Pumps that they use in their Ships in the South Seas after this manner and I am confident that there are no better Hand-pumps in the world than they have While we lay here the young Prince that I mentioned in Chapter the 13th came aboard He understanding that we were bound farther to the Southward desired us to transport him and his Men to his own Island He shewed it to us in our Draft and told us the Name of it which we put down in our Draft for it was not named there but I quite forgot to put it into my Journal This Man told us that not above 6 days before this he saw Captain Swan and several of his Men that we left there and named the Names of some of them who he said were all well and that now they were at the City of Mindanao but that they had been all of them out with Raja Laut fighting under him in his Wars against his Enemies the Alfoores and that most of them fought with undaunted Courage for which they were highly honored and esteemed as well by the Sultan as by the General Raja Laut That now Captain Swan intended to go with his Men to Fort St. George and that in order thereto he had proffered 40 ounces of Gold for a Ship but the Owner and he were not yet agreed and that he feared that the Sultan would not let go away till the Wars were ended All this the Prince told us in the Malayan tongue which many of us had learnt and when he went away he promised to return to us again in 3 days time and so long Captain Reed promised to stay for him for we had now almost finished our business and he seem'd very glad of the opportunity of going with us After this I endeavoured to perswade our Men to return with the Ship to the River of Mandanao and offer their service again to Captain Swan I took an opportunity when they were filling of Water there being then half the Ships Company ashore and I found these all very willing to do it I desired them to say nothing till I had tried the minds of the other half which I intended to do the next day it being their turn to fill Water then but one of these Men who seemed most forward to invite back Captain Swan told Captain Read and Captain Teat of the project and they presently disswaded the Men from any such designs Yet fearing the worst they made all possible haste to be gone I have since been informed that Captain Swan and his Men stayed there a great while afterward and that many of the Men got passage from thence in Dutch Sloops to Ternate particularly Mr. Rofy and Mr. Nelly There they remained a great while and at last got to Batavia where the Dutch took their Journals from them and so to Europe and that some of Captain Swan's Men died at Mindanao of which number Mr. Harthope and Mr. Smith Captain Swan's Merchants were two At last Captain Swan and his Surgeon going in a small Canoa aboard of a Dutch Ship then in the Road in order to get passage to Europe were overset by the Natives at the Mouth of the River who waited their coming purposely to do it but unsuspected by them where they both were kill'd in the Water This was done by the General 's Order as some think to get his Gold which he did immediately seize on Others say it was because the General 's House was burnt a little before and Captain Swan was suspected to be the Author of it and others say that it was Captain Swan's Threats occasioned his own Ruine for he would often say passionately that he had been abused by the General and that he would have satisfaction for it saying also that now he was well acquainted with their Rivers and knew how to come in at any time that he also knew their manner of fighting and the Weakness of their Country and therefore he wou'd go away and get a Band of Men to assist him and returning thither again he would spoil and take all that they had and their Country too When the General has been informed of these discourses he would say What is Captain Swan made of Iron and able to resist a whole Kingdom Or does he think that we are afraid of him that he speaks thus Yet did he never touch him till now the Mindanayans kill'd him It is very probable there might be somewhat of truth in all of this for the Captain was passionate and the General greedy of Gold But whatever was the occasion so he was kill'd as several have assured me and his Gold seiz'd on and all his things and his Journal also from England as far as Cape Corrientes on the Coast of Mexico This Journal was afterwards sent away from thence by Mr. Moody who was there both a little before and a little after the Murder and he sent it to England by Mr. Goddard Chief Mate of the Defence But to our purpose seeing I could not perswade them to go to Captain Swan again I had a great desire to have had the Prince's company but Captain Read was afraid to let his fickle crew lye long That very day that the Prince had promised to return to us which was November 2. 1687. we sailed hence directing our course South West and having the Wind at N. W. This Wind continued till we came in sight of the Island Celebes then it veered about to the W. and to the Southward of the West We came up with the N. E. end of the Island Celebes the 9th day and there we found the current setting to the Westward so strongly that we could hardly get on the East side of that Island The Island Celebes is a very large Island extended in length from North to South about 7 degrees of lat and in breadth it is about 3 degrees It lies under the Equator the North end being in lat 1 d. 30 m. North and the South end in lat 5 d. 30 m. South and by common account the North point in the bulk of this Island lies nearest North and South but at the North East end there runs out a long narrow point stretching N. E. about 30 leagues and about 30 leagues to the Eastward of this long Slipe is the Island Gilolo on the West
accept of them for fear of disobliging by our refusal But the Coco-nuts Plantains Fowls Eggs Fish and Rice we kept for our use The Malayans that accompanied us from Nicobar separated themselves from us now living at one end of the house by themselves for they were Mahometans as all those of the Kingdom of Achin are and though during our passage by Sea together we made them content to drink their water out of the same Coco-shell with us yet being now no longer under that necessity they again took up their accustomed nicety and reservedness They all lay sick and as their sickness increas'd one of them threatned us that if any of them died the rest should kill us for having brought them this Voyage yet I question whether they would have attempted or the Country people have suffer'd it We made a shift to dress our own food for none of these people though they were very kind in giving us any thing that we wanted would yet come near us to assist us in dressing our victuals nay they would not touch any thing that we used We had all Fevers and therefore took turns to dress victuals according as we had strength to do it or stomachs to eat I found my Fever to encrease and my head so distempered that I could scarce stand therefore I whetted and sharpened my Penknife in order to let my self blood but I could not for my Knife was too blunt We stayed here 10 or 12 days in hopes to recover our health but finding no amendment we desired to go to Achin But we were delayed by the Natives who had a desire to have kept Mr. Hall and my self to sail in their Vessels to Malucca Cudda or to other places whither they Trade But finding us more desirous to be with our Country-men in our Factory at Achin they provided a large Proe to carry us thither we not being able to manage our own Canoa Besides before this 3 of our Malayan Comrades were gone very sick into the Country and only one of them and the Portuguese remained with us accompanying us to Achin and they both as sick as we It was the beginning of June 1688 when we left Passange Jonca We had 4 men to row one to steer and a Gentleman of the Country that went purposely to give an information to the Government of our arrival We were but 3 days and nights in our passage having Sea Breezes by day and Land Winds by night and very fair Weather When we arrived at Achin I was carry'd before the Shabander the chief Magistrate in the City One Mr. Dennis Driscall an Irish man and a Resident there in the Factory which our East-India Company had there then was Interpreter I being weak was suffer'd to stand in the Shabander's presence for it is their custom to make men sit on the floor as they do cross-legg'd like Taylors but I had not strength then to pluck up my heels in that manner The Shabander asked of me several questions especially how we durst adventure to come in a Canoa from the Nicobar Island to Sumatra I told him that I had been accustomed to hardships and hazards therefore I did with much freedom undertake it He inquired also concerning our Ship whence she came c. I told him from the South Seas that she had ranged about the Philippine Islands c. and was now gone towards Arabia and the Red Sea The Malayans also and Portuguese were afterward examined and confirmed what I declared and in less than half an hour I was dismist with Mr. Driscal who then lived in the English East India Companies Factory He provided a Room for us to lye in and some Victuals Three days after our arrival here our Portuguese died of a Fever What became of our Malayans I know not Ambrose lived not long after Mr. Hall also was so weak that I did not think he would recover I was the best yet still very sick of a Fever and little likely to live Therefore Mr. Driscal and some other Englishmen perswaded me to take some purging Physick of a Malayan Doctor I took their advice being willing to get ease but after 3 Doses each a large Calabash of nasty Stuff finding no amendment I thought to desist from more Physick but was perswaded to take one Dose more which I did and it wrought so violently that I thought it would have ended my days I struggled till I had been about 20 or 30 times at stool but it working so quick with me with little intermission and my strength being almost spent I even threw my self down once for all and had above 60 stools in all before it left off working I thought my Malayan Doctor whom they so much commended would have killed me outright I continued extraordinary weak for some days after his drenching me thus but my Fever left me for above a week after which it returned upon me again for a twelve month and a Flux with it However when I was a little recover'd from the effects of my Drench I made a shift to go abroad and having been kindly invited to Captain Bowrey's House there my first visit was to him who had a Ship in the Road but lived ashore This Gentleman was extraordinary kind to us all particularly to me and importuned me to go his Boatswain to Persia whither he was bound with a design to sell his Ship there as I was told tho not by himself From thence he intended to pass with the Caravan to Aleppo and so home for England His business requir'd him to stay some time longer at Achin I judge to sell some commodities that he had not yet disposed of Yet he chose rather to leave the disposal of them to some Merchant there and make a short trip to the Nicobar Islands in the mean time and on his return to take in his effects and so proceed towards Persia. This was a sudden resolution of Captain Bowry's presently after the arrival of a small Frigot from Siam with an Ambassador from the King of Siam to the Queen of Achin The Ambassador was a Frenchman by Nation The Vessel that he came in was but small yet very well mann'd and fitted for a fight Therefore it was generally supposed here that Captain Bowry was afraid to lye in Achin Road because the Siamers were now at Wars with the English and he was not able to defend his Ship if he should be attackt by them But whatever made him think of going to the Nicobar Islands he provided to sail and took me Mr. Hall and Ambrose with him tho all of us so sick and weak that we could do him no service It was some time about the beginning of June when we sailed out of Achin Road but we met with the Winds at N. W. with turbulent weather which forced us back again in 2 days time Yet he gave us each 12 Mess a piece a Gold Coyn each of which is about the value of 15 pence English
America on the other If I be questioned for taking this Liberty I should think it enough to say that I wanted a general Name for this whole Ocean and I could not find one more proper And yet even as to the Reason of the thing if the Discovery of a Sea to the South of the Isthmus of Darien or the Mexican Coast were ground sufficient for the extending the Name of South Sea to all that largest Ocean of the World tho it lies West rather of the whole Continent of America much more may I be allowed a less considerable enlargement of the name of Atlantick Sea which others have long since extended to so great a part of this Ocean from its Original narrow Confines the Neighbourhood of Mount Atlas and the Coasts of Mauritania I know that so much of this Ocean as lies South of the R. Niger went usually by the name of the Aethiopick Sea yet I can't learn a sufficient Reason for it for tho 't is true that the Antients call'd all the South parts of Africk to each Sea Aethiopia yet even upon this bottom the name of Aethiopick Sea should have been left common to the Oceans on each side the Cape of Good Hope But if the Name must be appropriated why to this on the West of Africa why not rather to that on its E. Coast which lies nearer the Inward or more proper Aethiopia now the Abissine Empire and consequently might better be call'd the Aethiopick Sea Accordingly I have ventured to call it so Vol. I. page 289 making it there the same as the Indian which I also make to be all the Ocean from the East Coast of Africa to the remotest of the E. India Islands New Holland and New Guinea tho this Name also of Indian Sea has been understood usually of narrower bounds But be that as it will I was for using comprehensive Names and therefore these three Names of Atlantick Indian and South Seas or Oceans serve me for the whole Ambit of the Torrid Zone and what else I have occasion to speak of To these three Parts is added a General Index of both Volumes The first Volume should not have been publish'd without one but that 't was reserved to be annex'd to this that the Reader might not have the trouble of turning over two Alphabets Thus what I designed as an Appendix to the former Volume is grown to be its self a Volume answerable to the other And I am sensible there is one part of the intended Appendix yet behind viz. The Description of the South Sea Coasts of America from the Spanish Pilot-Books c. I confess I had thoughts of crowding it into this Volume but besides the dryness and fatigue of such a Work and the small leisure I had for it I was quite discouraged from attempting it when upon nearer View of the Matter I found in those Descriptions and Charts a repugnance with each other in many particulars and some things which from my own experience I knew to be erroneous Indeed as they are they may be very useful to Sailors in those Parts being generally right enough in the Main but I was loth to undertake a work much of which must have consisted in correcting Mistakes and yet have left unavoidably many more to be rectified Others may have Time and Helps for this affair and future Discoveries may give greater Light to direct them To me it shall suffice that bating this one particular I have here endeavoured to perform what I had made the Publick expect from me The CONTENTS PART I. The Supplement of the Voyage round the World CHap. 1. The Authors Voyage from Achin to Malacca and Tonquin 2. The Natural State of Tonquin 3. Of the Natives their Customs Religion Trade c. 4. Of the Government Kings Soldiery and Mandarins 5. Voyage to Tenan The A.'s journey by land to Cachao and Occurrences 6. His return from Tonquin witâ—… some particulars of Cambodia and Bancouli and Arrival at Malacca and Achin 7. Achin describ'd its Natural and Political Sate Customs Trade Civil War c. 8. His Voyage to Malacca again Malacca described 9. His Return to Achin Voyage to Fort St George and thence to Bencouli Bencouli described PAAT II. The Campeachy Voyages Chap. 1. The A.'s 1st Voyage to Campeachy and Return Jucatan ' Alcranes and I. of Pines describ'd 2. His 2d Voyage The E. Coast of Campeachy describ'd its Vegetables Weather Animals c. 3. Logwood-Cutting Beef-Hunting and Occurrences 4. The W. Coast of Campeachy describ'd its Mountain-Cow Indians c. 5. The Coast further W. and products of Campeachy and New Spain described The A.'s return to England PART III. A Discourse of Winds Storms Seasons Tides and Currents in the Torrid Zone Chap. 1. Of the True or General Trade Wind at Sea Crossing the Line c. 2. Of the Coasting and constant Trade Winds 3. Of the shifting Trade-Winds and Monsoons 4. Of the Ordinary Sea and Land Breezes 5. Of peculiar Breezes and Winds of particular effects Summasenta Winds Cartagena Breezes Popogaios Tereno's and Harmatans 6. Of storms Norths Souths Hurricane's Tuffoons stormy Monsoons and Elephanta's 7. Of the Seasons of the Year Weather Rains and Tornadoes 8. Of Tides and Currents Natal described its Product Negroes c. A Map of the Streights of MALACCA A Map of the Streights of MALACCA Mr Dampier's Voyages VOL. II. PART I. His Voyage from Achin in Sumatra to Tonquin and other places in the East-Indies CHAP. I. The Connexion of this discourse with the Voyage round the World The Authors departure from Achin in the Isle of Sumatra with Captain Weldon Their Course along the Streights of Malacca Pulo Nuttee and other Islands The R. and Kingdom of Jihore Pulo Oro and Pulo Timaon Green Turtle there Pulo Condore Sholes of Pracel River of Cambodia Coast of Champa Pulo Canton Cochinchinese Pulo Champello R. and City of Quinam Oyl of Porpusses and Turtle Shipwrackt men detained usually at Cochinchina and Pegu. Aguala wood from the Bay of Siam Bay of Tonquin I. of Aynam and other Islands Rokbo one mouth of the chief R. of Tonquin Fishers I. River of Domea the other Mouth It s Bar and Entrance Mountain Elephant Pearl-Islands Pilots of Batsha They go up the River of Domea Domea and its Gardens and Dutch there They leave their Ships at Anchor above it where the Natives build a Town They go up to the chief City in the Country Boats The River and the Country about it Leprous Beggars Hean a Town of note Chinese there The Governor Shipping and Tide They arrive at Cachao the Metropolis of Tonquin THe Reader will find upon perusing my Voyage round the World that I then omitted to speak particularly of the excursions I made to Tonquin Malacca Fort St. George and Bencouli from Achin in the Isle of Sumatra together with the description I intended to give of those parts I do but just mention them there but shall now proceed to a
more distinct account of them And to keep to the order of time the Reader may recollect that my first departure from Achin was to Tonquin along with Captain Weldon about July 1688. as I have said p. 505th of my former Volume I have there related in a page or two before to how weak a condition my self and my Companions were brought through the fatigues of our passage from Nicobar to Achin yet did not my weakness take me off from contriving some employment or expedition whereby I might have a comfortable subsistence Captain Weldon touched here to sell the Slaves he had brought with him from Fort St. George it being in his way to the Streights of Malacca and so to Tonquin whither he was bound This afforded me the opportunity of trying that Voyage to which he kindly invited me and to which I was the more incouraged because he had a good Surgeon in his Ship whose Advice I needed and my friend Mr. Hall was particularly animated thereby who had also resolv'd upon this Voyage and was in a weaker condition than my self Besides Captain Weldon promised to buy a Sloop at Tonquin of which he would make me Commander to go a trading Voyage from thence to Cochinchina Champa Cambodia or some other of the adjacent Countries which Trade has been scarce yet been attempted by our Country men and there were hopes it might turn to a good account but this project came to nothing However Captain Weldon having finished his business at Achin I set out thence with him through the Streights of Malacca and we soon arrived at the Town of Malacca of which Town and Country I shall have a better occasion to speak hereafter Here we found the Caesar of London commanded by Captain Wright who came from Bombay and was bound to China He stopt here to water and refresh as is usual for Ships to do do that pass these Streights By him we were informed that three other English Ships had touched here and were past on to the Eastward 10 days before These 3 Ships came from Fort St. George in company with Captain Weldon but his business calling him to Achin they in the mean time prosecuting their Voyage got the start of us thus much The Caesar was soon ready to sail again and went away the next morning after our arrival at Malacca Our Captain being a stranger to the Bay of Tonquin as were all his Ships company he hired a Dutch Pilot at Malacca and having finished his business there we set sail two days after the Caesar We were desirous to overtake these four Ships and therefore crouded all the sail we could make having a strong westerly wind accompanied with many hard Gusts and Tornadoes and the very next day we got sight of them for they had not yet passed through a narrow passage called the Streights of Sincapore We soon got up with them and past through together and sailing about 3 leagues further we anchored near an Island called Pulo Nuttee belonging to the Kingdom of Jihore Here Captain Weldon took in wood and water and some of the Indian Inhabitants came aboard us in their Canoas of whom we bought a few Cocoa-nuts Plantains and fresh Fish We staid here not above 24 hours for the other Ships had filled most of their water at other Islands near this before we came up with them for tho Ships do usually take in water at Malacca Town yet they do as frequently discharge it again at some of these Islands and take in better We sailed the next day and kept near the Malacca shore and there passing by the mouth of the River Jihore we left many other Islands on our Star-board side The River of Jihore runs by the City of that name which is the seat of the little Kingdom of Jihore This Kingdom lies on the Continent of Malacca and consists of the extremity or doubling of that Promontory It abounds with Pepper and other good Commodities They are a Mahometan people very warlike and desirous of trade They delight much in Shipping and going to Sea all the neighbouring Islands in a manner being Colonies of this Kingdom and under its Government They coast about in their own Shipping to several parts of Sumatra Java c. their Vessels are but small yet very serviceable and the Dutch buy up a great many of them at a small price and make good trading Sloops of them But they first fit them up after their own fashion and put a Rudder to them which the Jihorians don't use tho they are very good Sea-men in their way but they make their Vessels sharp at each end tho but one end is used as the Head and instead of a Rudder they have on each side the Stern a thing like a very broad Oar one of which they let down into the water at pleasure as there is occasion to steer the Ship either to the one side or the other always letting down that which is to the Leeward They have Proes of a particular neatness and curiosity We call them Half-moon Proes for they turn up so much at each end from the water that they much resemble a Half moon with the Horns upwards They are kept very clean sail well and are much used by them in their Wars The people of Jihore have formerly endeavoured to get a Commerce with our Nation For what reason that trade is neglected by us I know not The Dutch trade very much there and have lately endeavoured to bring the King who is very young to their bow At the farther end of the Streights of Malacca among many other Islands we sail'd by those of Pulo Oro and Pulo Timaon which last is a place often touch'd at for wood water and other refreshments tho we past it by Among other things there are great plenty of excellent Green Turtle among these Islands Being at length got clear of all the Islands into the wide Ocean we steered away still together till we came in sight of Pulo Condore when having all brought to and spoke with each other we parted for our several Voyages The Caesar and two others that were bound to China steered away to the Eastward keeping to the South of Pulo Condore it being their best course thereby to avoid the large sholes of Pracel We and the Saphire of Fort St George commanded by Captain Lacy steered more Northerly and leaving Pulo Condore on our Starboard we hall'd in for the Continent and fell in with it near the River of Cambodia But leaving this also on our Starboard side we coasted along to the Eastward keeping near the Champa shore and coming to the point of Land that bounds the S. W. part of the Bay of Tonquin we doubled it and coasting to the North leaving Champa still on our Larboard side and the dangerous shoals of Pracel about 12 or 14 leagues off on our Starboard side we kept along fair by the shore just without Pulo Canton This Island lies in about 13
sail and they have thus vanished on a sudden The Fish which they take near the shore with their Nets are Snooks Dog-fish and sometimes Tarpoms The Tarpom is a large scaly Fish shaped much like a Salmon but somewhat flatter 'T is of a dull Silver Colour with Scales as big as a Half Crown A large Tarpom will weigh 25 or 30 Pound 'T is good sweet wholsom Meat and the Flesh solid and firm In its Belly you shall find two large Scalops of Fat weighing two or three Pound each I never knew any taken with Hook and Line but are either with Nets or by striking them with Harpoons at which the Moskito-Men are very expert The Nets for this purpose are made with strong double Twine the Meshes 5 or 6 Inches square For if they are too small so that the Fish be not intangled therein he presently draws himself a little backward and then springs over the Net Yet I have seen them taken in a Sain made with small Meshes in this manner After we have inclosed a great number whilst the two ends of the Net were drawing ashore 10 or 12 naked Men have followed and when a Fish struck against the Net the next Man to it grasped both Net and Fish in his Arms and held all fast till others came to his assistance Besides these we had three Men in a Canoa in which they mov'd side ways after the Net and many of the Fish in springing over the Net would fall into the Canoa And by these means we should take two or 3 at every Draught These Fish are found plentifully all along that shore from Cape Catoch to Trist especially in clear Water near sandy Bays but no where in muddy or rocky Ground They are also about Jamaica and all the Coast of the Main especially near Carthagena West from Rio de la Gartos there is a Look-out or Watch-tower called Selam This is a Place close by the shore contrived by the Spaniards for their Indians to watch in There are many of them on this Coast Some built from the Ground with Timber others only little Cages placed on a Tree big enough for one or two Men to sit in with a Ladder to go up and down These Watch-towers are never without an Indian or two all the day long the Indians who live near any of them being obliged to take their turns About three or four Leagues Westward of Selam is another Watch-Box on a High Tree called Linchanchee Lookout from a large Indian Town of that Name 4 Leagues up in the Country and two Leagues farther within Land is another Town called Chinchanchee I have been ashore at these Look-outs and have been either rowing in a Canoa or walking ashore on all this Coast even from Rio de la Gartos to Cape Condecedo but did never see any Town by the shore nor any Houses besides Fishing-hutts on all the Coast except only at Sisal Between Selam and Linchanchee are many small regular Salt Ponds divided from each other by little Banks the biggest Pond not above 10 Yards long and 6 broad The Inhabitants of these two Towns attend these Ponds in the Months of May June and July to gather the Salt which supplies all the Inland Towns of these Parts and there is a skirt of Wood between the Sea and the Ponds that you can neither see them nor the People at Work till you come ashore From these Salt Ponds further West about three or four Leagues is the Look-out called Sisal This is the highest and most remarkable on all the Coast it stands close by the Sea and it is built with Timber This is the first Object that we make off at Sea and sometimes we take it for a Sail till running nearer we discover the high Mangrove-trees appearing in small Tufts at several Distances from it Not far from hence there is a Fort with 40 or 50 Soldiers to Guard the Coast and from this Place there is a Road through the Country to the City of Merida This is the chiefest City in all the Province of Jucatan it being inhabited mostly with Spaniards Yet there are many Indian Families among them who live in great subjection as do the rest of the Indians of this Country The Province of Jucatan especially this Northern and the most Easterly Part of it is but indifferently fruitful in comparison of that rich Soil farther to the West Yet is it pretty populous of Indians who all live together in Towns but none within five or six Miles of the Sea except as I said at two or three Fishing Places and even there the Indians resort to fish but at certain Seasons of the Year Therefore when Privateers come on this Coast they fear not to Land and ramble about as if they were in their own Country seeking for Game of any sort either Fowl or Deer of both which there are great plenty especially of the latter though sometimes they pay dear for it A small Jamaica Privateer once Landed 6 or 7 Men at this Look-out of Sisal who not suspecting any danger ordered the Canoa with 3 or 4 Men to row along by the shore to take them in upon their giving a sign or firing a Gun But within half an hour they were attack'd by about 40 Spanish Soldiers who had cut them off from the shore to whom they surrendred themselves Prisoners The Spaniards carried them in triumph to the Fort and then demanded which was the Captain Upon this they all stood mute for the Captain was not among them and they were afraid to tell the Spaniards so for fear of being all hanged for Straglers Neither did any one of them dare to assume that Title because they had no Commission with them nor the Copy of it for the Captains don't usually go ashore without a Copy at least of their Commission which is wont to secure both themselves and their Men. At last one John Hullock cock'd up his little cropt Hat and told them that he was the Captain and the Spaniards demanding his Commission he said it was aboard for that he came ashore only to hunt not thinking to have met any Enemy The Spaniards were well satisfied with this Answer and afterwards respected him as the Captain and served him with better Provision and Lodging than the rest and the next day when they were sent to the City of Merida about 12 or 13 Leagues from thence Captain Hullock had a Horse to ride on while the rest went on Foot And though they were all kept in close Prison yet Hullock had the honour to be often sent for to be examined at the Governours House and was frequently Regal'd with Chocolate c. From thence they were carried to Campeachy Town where still Captain Hullock was better served than his Comrades At last I know not how they all got their Liberties and Hullock was ever after call'd Captain Jack It is about 8 Leagues from Sisal to Cape Condecedo Twenty Leagues North of which
rising upon Spring Tides about 6 or 7 Foot up and down I remain SIR Your humble Servant Henry Greenhill From His Majesties Yard near Portsmouth the 5th June 1698. Upon my Receipt of this from the Gentleman aforesaid I wrote to him again to have his Opinion about what I have said concerning the particular Longitude in which 't is best to ross the Line in going from Guinea to the West Indies And so much of his Answer as concerns this Matter was in these Words Mr. Greenhill's second Letter SIR I Do not dissent from Crossing the Line at 35 or 36 d. Longitude Westward of Cape Lopes and it may as well be done at 30. provided the Breezes continue fresh But if we have but little Winds we generally run on the South side of the Line till we reach the distance West and then Crossing we steer away West North West and West by North for Barbadoes And this you may observe as I have already hinted to you that the further we keep to the Southward of the Line the fresher and consequently more advantageous the Breezes are I remain SIR Your obliged Friend And most humble Servant Henry Greenhill And here I judge it will not be unacceptable to the Reader to insert two other Letters from an Experienced Captain of a Ship because they have a general Relation to the Subject I am now upon as well as to the Coast of Guinea in particular Part of two Letters from Captain John Covant of Portbury to a Gentleman in London LETTER I. Honoured Sir I Have sent Mr. Dampier's Book which you were pleased to send me to Captain S I have gone through it and find it very well worth my time being very delight some and I believe true I have made some Remarks on it as having found the like of what he asserts in other places As p. 65. mention is made of the Sucking-Fish or Remora as Mr. Dampier calls it These are mighty plenty on the Coast of Angola and at Madagascar and between Cape Lopes de Gonsalvas and the River Gabon They are shaped as he describes them As to what he saith p. 73. I have found the Indians in the Gulph of Florida offering false Ambergriece to sale and particularly in Lat. 25 d. where in the Year 1693. several of our Men were cheated with it What Mr. Dampier saith of the Laziness of the People of Mindanao p. 326. the very same may be said of the People of Loango on the Coast of Guinea exactly Their manner of Worship mentioned p. 338. is the very same with what I have seen at Algier on the Coast of Barbary The Nocturnal Dancings used by the Hottantotts at the Cape of Good Hope every Full and New Moon p. 541. are also practised by the Inhabitants of Loango Molinbo and Cabendo I shall give you the trouble of a small Relation of a Passage to Loango in the Year 1693. When we came so far to the Southward as 2 d. 40 m. N. Lat. and 8 d. 25 m. Longi Westward from the Meridian of Lundy it being 31st of March we had small Wind at S. S. W. and S. W. with showers of Rain There we met with prodigious shoals of Fish consisting chiefly of Albicores and Bonetoes There were also great numbers of Sharks some 10 or 12 Foot long For diversion we catch'd above an 100 of them at times The other Fish we took as we had occasion fresh and fresh and one day we caught a Barrel of them with empty Hooks These shoals of Fish kept us Company till we were under the Equator in Long. 4 d. 3 m. Eastward of the Meridian of Lundy This was April 27. we had the Winds at S. E. and S. E. by E. fresh Gales and clear Weather but a mighty Leeward Current At the Fishes parting with us that day I caught an Albicore that weighed 75 l. It is a mighty strong Fish so that the Fishing-Craft must be very strong to take them The City of Loango I find to lye in Lat. 4 d. 30 m. S. and Longi 18 d. 8 m. Eastward from the Meridian of Lundy from whence I took my departure bound for Jamaica Oct. 7. 1693. When we find the Winds South S. by W. and S. S. W. fresh Gales veerable to S. W. and back to South we stand off to the Westward with Larboard Tacks on board till we get 14 d. Long. to the Westward of Loango And there we find the Winds veerable from S. S. E. to S. E. fresh Gales When we get 34 d. to the Westward of Loango we are then 16 d. Westward from the Meridian of Lundy And there we find the Winds veerable from S. E. by E. to E. by S. and East and so they continue blowing fresh as we still run to the Westward between the Lat. of 3 and 4 d. South till we make the Island Fernando de Noronho which I find to lye in Lat. 3 d. 54 m. 30 s. South And by the Experience of two Voyages have found its Longi 40 d. 59 m. Westward from Loango and 22 d. 51 m. from the Meridian of Lundy This Island appears with a very high Pyramid And when we come close to it the Pyramid looks like a large Cathedral On the N. W. side is a small Bay to anchor in But ships must come pretty near the shore because it is deep Water Here is plenty of Fish And on the Island is some fresh Water and low shrubs of Trees We could see no living Creature on it but Dogs It was formerly inhabited by the Portuguese but the Dutch having then War with them took it and carried the Portuguese all away The Body of the Island I judge to be about 4 Miles long lying N. E. and S. W. near on the North side are some Rocks pretty high above Water and many Birds as Sea-Gulls and Man-of-War-Birds which are something like our Kites in England I find the Current sets strong to the N. W. The variation very little From thence I steered N. W. with fresh Gales S. E. and at E. S. E. in order to cross the Equator and designing to make the Island Tobago Which by my Run from the aforesaid Island I find to lye in Lat. 11 d. 33 m. North. Longi Westward of Fernando 28 d. 19 m. 2 10. The Meridian distance from Fernando 1721 Miles 6 10 And by my reckoning or Journal Tobago is West from the Meridian of the Isle of Lundy 51 d. 10 m. 2 10. In this Passage between the said Islands we find strange Rippling and Cockling Seas ready to leap in upon the Ships Deck which makes us think the Current to be strong And it seems to be occasioned by the great River on the main Land which is not far from us in this Passage Tobago is an high Island with a brave sandy Bay on the S. W. side where the Dutch had formerly a great Fort till molested by the English in the last Dutch War From this Island I shaped
Singing and Dancing then usual where O. 127. 459. 541. Fires then seen 382. 459. Drum heard 458. Nigril Point in Jamaica C. 38 9. Noddy Bird d. O. 53. Nombre de Dios now a Ruine O. 58. Fernando de Noronho's I. d. VV. 56. Norths Storms and North-Banks Clouds presaging them d. VV. 60 1 2. 71. 105 6. C. 21. Chocolatta-North 39. d. VV. 60. North-Seas store of Seals O. 90. North-Sea See Atlantick North-West and North-East Passages how to be tried O. 273 4. Noses where People of short and low O. 32. 325 6. 427. thick 32. and flat ib. 326. 537. high or Aquiline 44. 297. 395. 407. large 407. small 170. 326. mean bigness and well proportioned 395. 478 S. 40. 128. C. 115. VV. 110. Nuke mum a Pickle what and where C. 28. 30. Nurse Fish d and where C. 25. 35. Nutmegs where O. 316. 447. 513. a Commodity and Price S. 152. VVild or Bastard Nutmegs without smell or taste O. 391 2. Pulo Nuttee VVater and Provisions S. 4. O. OAkam for calking Ships O. 295. Oaks the only ones seen by the Author in the Torrid Zone C. 53. Oarrha d. O. 255. Oars what where and how us'd O. 429. 490. S. 5. 13 4. 75. best Looms or Handles of what wood O. 54. 118. Oath of Allegiance where and how taken S. 82 3. Observations taken of the Sun O. 82. 281. see Latitudes by Ob. Offerings to Idols flesh O. 411. burnt sticks 412. see Paper Oil a Commodity where O. 142 3. 196. 214. of Coco-nuts how made 294. where us'd and Palm-Oil for anointing the Body 537 8. Train-Oil of Seals where to be had 90. C. 26 7 8. of Sea-Turtle O. 109. 110. 395 and of Porpusses S. 6. 8. sweet Oils us'd against Harmatans VV. 50. Old VVives fish where S. 128. Oleta R. d. O. 267. Omba I. d. and Isles and Sholes near it O. 459. One-bush Key see Bush. Onions where S. 23. 127. Opium a valuable Commodity where S. 154. 165 6. Oranges what and where O. 258. 291. 311. Cam-chain and Cam-quit S. 23 4. 45. 90 2. 124. 163. 181. C. 6. 94. Orange I. d. O. 385. 421 2 9. Ornament of Dancing Women O. 340. Princesses 342. of several people 32. 326 7. 407 8. 418 9. 427. 456. 464. 479. 514 5. 537 8. S. 40 1. C. 114. W. 111. Pulo Oro S. 5. Oromkeys of Achin O. 500. S. 141 2 3. 4. Ostridges see Estriges Otoque I. d. O. 200. Otta see Anatta Oven made in Sand O. 275. a fence from Fire S. 45 6. Out-cry of Fish at Malacca manner of it S. 163. Outlagers of Boats what O. 299. 480. how serviceable 487. 492 5 7. see Proes Oysters Oyster-banks and Pearl-Oysters what and where O. 43. 153. 173 4 6 7. S. 9. 89. 163. C. 17. 28. P. PAcheca I. O. d. 175. 196 9. 206. Pacifick Sea what properly so O. 94. and how made so W. 78 9. 83. Dews and Mists tho' no Rain 78. O. 94. and great Waves ib. healthy Coast 153. Paddles how and where us'd O. 299. W. 38 9. Padres see Priests Spanish Pagally what and where O. 327 8. 358. 364 5. 377. S. 52. Pageants O. 340 1. Pageant Princes see Boua Q. of Achin Pagoda's Idol Temples what and where S. 56 7. 90 1 2. 152. Pagoda Coin how much O. 509. Paita see Payta Painters where S. 60. 136. O. 409. Painting the Body where and how 514. 537. the Teeth black S. 41. Palaces d. S. 47 8. 130. see Houses Palankin of the Sultan of Mindanao O. 341. Palimbam in Sumatra its Pepper-Trade O. 401. Pallacat in Coromandel O. 522. why deserted W. 74. Palm-Tree and Dwarf-Palm or Palme to Royal d. O. 248. 318. and thatch 328. d. S. 46 7. C. 79. 115. Palm-wine O. 78. whence 248. Palm-Oil where used for anointing the Body O. 537. Palma Mariae d. and where O. 212 3. Palmeto and works and Thatch of it d. and where O. 150 1. 300. 328 335. 412. 479. S. 46 7. C. 11. 49. 79. 114 5. 127. C. Palmas Coast and Winds W. 16. 38. 50 1. Weather 80. R. Palmas C. 1â—…0 Palo de Campeche Logwood why so call'd C. 47. Panama Bay its Coast O 186. low 34. 425. Bounds 164. Rivers 178. Ship-werms 363. Rains Air c. 186. W. 83. Winds 17 9. 34 5. 40. O. 186. Tides W. 95 6. Islands 95. d. O. 174 5. 193 9. 200 2 6. 211 see the Map O. 1. Panama City d. O. 178 9 186. its strength 205. whence its provision 176. its Commerce with Portobel 179. 184 5. Course towards Lima 4. 135. 167. and from Lima thither 200 1. Old Panama burnt 178. Panay a Spanish I. unfrequented O. 382. Fires in the night ib. Pangasanam Pongasfinay of Luconia d. O. 383. Pangasinam in Sumatra its Pepper S. 182. Pan-tile see Roofs Panuk R. and City d. C. 127. Paper what and where made S. 60 1. burnt in Sacrisice to Idols 58. 9. O. 396. Parades in Spanish Towns O. 219. 269. 387. C. 46. Parakites where O. 321. 392. 426. 458. S. 26. 128. 181. C. 65. Parents play away Children where S. 42. sell them 37 8 9. 50. their Daughters to Husbands ib. see Children Pulo Parselor d. S. 158 9. Parracota Fish d. sometimes poisonous C. 71 2. Parrots where and what O 39. 321. 392. S. 26. 128. 181. C. 65. 118. a fine sort d. 128 9. Partriges where S. 26. C. Passao d. O. 162. No L. Breezes W. 33. its Currents 107. Passage-Fort in Jamaica Salt-Earth C. 18. Breezes W. 36. Passages North-West and North East how to be attempted O. 273 4. Passange-Jonca O. 499. 500 1 2. S. 118. 133 4. Pastla R. see Coolecan Pastures where O. 218. 231. S. 14. 21. see Savannahs Patagonia a Stage to East India Arrow-heads of Flint O. 85 6. Pate Bay great Calms there W. 20. Pattache a Spanish Galleon its Course O 185. Pavillions to sleep in a Commodity C. 42. necessary 80. Paving of Streets S. 47. see Floors St. Paul's I. O. 175. 206. Paunches of Goats how dressed and eaten O. 429. 430. Pea's where growing O. 532. Peacock a Bird like it where and what W. 109. Pears where growing O. 532. Pearl Pearl-Oysters and Fishery where and what O. 43. 173 4 5. 244. 264. S. 8. 89. Mother of Pearl where good O. 173. Pearl-Islands by Tonquin S. 11. Pearl-Islands in the W. Indies see Corn-Islands Pearl-Islands or Kings-Islands by Panama O. 171. d. 175 6 7 8. W. 95. see the Map O. 1. Santa Pecaque see Centiquipaque Pecary where O. 9. 12 8. 39. 169. C. 59. 96. Pecul how much S. 132. Pedro Point in Jamaica hard to double W. 32. Currents 101. Pegu its Achar O. 391. VVomen Prostituted there 395. Shipwrack'd Men kept there S. 8. its Jars 98. low Coast rich Pagoda and Image and Commodities Imported 151 2. Pelicans d. and where C. 69. 70 1. S. 26. Penguin Bird d. and where O. 97. 146. Eggs 159. Penguin Fruit yellow and red d. and where O. 263. C. 94.
is a Pond of brackish Water which sometimes Privateers use instead of better there is likewise good riding by it About a league from this are two other Islands not 200 yards distant from each other yet a deep Channel for Ships to pass through They are both overgrown with red Mangrove Trees which Trees above any of the Mangroves do flourish best in wet drowned Land such as these two Islands are only the East point of the Westernmost Island is dry Sand without Tree or Bush On this point we careened lying on the South side of it The other Islands are low and have red Mangroves and other Trees on them Here also Ships may ride but no such place for careening as where we lay because at that place Ships may hale close to the shore and if they have but four Guns on the point may secure the Channel and hinder any Enemy from coming near them I observ'd that within among the Islands was good riding in many places but not without the Islands except to the West-ward or S. West of them For on the East or N. E. of these Islands the common Trade-Wind blows and makes a great Sea and to the South-ward of them there is no ground under 70 80 or 100 fathom close by the Land After we had filled what Water we could from hence we set out again in April 1682. and came to Salt-Tortuga so called to distinguish it from the shoals of Dry Tortugas near Cape Florida and from the Isle of Tortugas by Hispaniola which was called formerly French Tortugas though not having heard any mention of that name a great while I am apt to think it is swallow'd up in that of Petit-Guavres the chief Garrison the French have in those parts This Island we arrived at is pretty large uninhabited and abounds with Salt It is in Lat. 11 degrees North and lyeth West and a little Northerly from Margarita an Island inhabited by the Spaniards strong and wealthy it is distant from it about 14 leagues and 17 or 18 from Cape Blanco on the Main A Ship being within these Islands a little to the South-ward may see at once the Main Margarita and Tortuga when it is clear weather The East end of Tortuga is full of rugged bare broken Rocks which stretch themselves a little way out to Sea At the S. E. part is an indifferent good Road for Ships much frequented in peaceable times by Merchant-ships that come hither to lade Salt in the months of May June July and August For at the East end is a large Salt-pond within 200 paces of the Sea The Salt begins to kern or grain in April except it is a dry season for it is observed that rain makes the Salt kern I have seen above 20 Sail at a time in this road come to lade Salt and these Ships coming from some of the Caribbe Islands are always well stored with Rum Sugar and Lime-juice to make Punch to hearten their Men when they are at work getting and bringing aboard the Salt and they commonly provide the more in hopes to meet with Privateers who resort hither in the aforesaid months purposely to keep a Christmas as they call it being sure to meet with Liquor enough to be merry with and are very liberal to those that treat them Near the West end of the Island on the South side there is a small Harbour and some fresh Water That end of the Island is full of shrubby Trees but the East end is rocky and barren as to Trees producing only course Grass There are some Goats on it but not many and Turtle or Tortise come upon the sandy Bays to lay their Eggs and from them the Island hath its Name There is no riding any where but in the Road where the Salt-Ponds are or in the Harbour At this Isle we thought to have sold our Sugar among the English Ships that come hither for Salt but failing there we design'd for Trinidada an Island near the Main inhabited by the Spaniards tolerably strong and wealthy but the Current and Easterly Winds hindering us we passed through between Margarita and the Main and went to Blanco a pretty large Island almost North of Margarita about 30 leagues from the Main and in 11 d. 50 m. North Lat. It is a flat even low uninhabited Island dry and healthy most Savanah of long Grass and hath some Trees of Lignum Vitae growing in Spots with shrubby Bushes of other Wood about them It is plentifully stored with Guano s which are an Animal like a Lizard but much bigger The body is as big as the small of a mans leg and from the hind quarter the tail grows tapering to the end which is very small If a Man takes hold of the tail except very near the hind quarter it will part and breakoff in one of the joints and the Guano will get away They lay Eggs as most of those amphibious creatures do and are very good to eat Their flesh is much esteemed by Privateers who commonly dress them for their sick men for they make very good Broath They are of divers colours as almost black dark brown light brown dark green light green yellow and speckled They all live as well in the Water as on Land and some of them are constantly in the Water and among Rocks These are commonly black Others that live in swampy wet ground are commonly on Bushes and Trees these are green But such as live in dry ground as here at Blanco are commonly yellow yet these also will live in the Water and are sometimes on Trees The Road is on the N. W. end against a small Cove or little sandy Bay There is no riding any where else for it is deep water and steep close to the Land There is one small Spring on the West side and there are sandy Bays round the Island where Turtle or Tortoise come up in great abundance going ashore in the night These that frequent this Island are called green Turtle and they are the best of that sort both for largeness and sweetness of any in all the West Indies I would here give a particular description of these and other sorts of Turtle in these Seas but because I shall have occasion to mention some other sorts of Turtle when I come again into the South Seas that are very different from all these I shall there give a general account of all these several sorts at once that the difference between them may be the better discerned Some of our modern Descriptions speak of Goats on this Island I know not what there may have been formerly but there are none now to my certain knowledge for my self and many more of our Crew have been all over it Indeed these parts have undergone great changes in this last age as well in places themselves as in their Owners and Commodities of them particularly Nombre de Dios a City once famous and which still retains a considerable name in some late