day arrived safe at Yarmouth On the 15 of January we weighed anchor and left Yarmouth having taken in our intended Loading and directed our course for the Straits of Gibralter On the 2 of February we entred the Straits and on the 10 th got Leghorn When we lay at anchor here there happened a misunderstanding between Mr. Ketel and my self about a trifling business which brought us both without the bounds of Moderation for proceeding from Words to Blows we were at last soo deeply ingaged that we both tumbled over board Our Master was so kind as to let me climb up but when I came upon Deck put me in Irons that seeing our courage was not yet cooled in the Sea he had that one mean to keep us asunder In the mean while some had taken opportunity to pillage my chest and borrow 116 Ducatoons but I could never be so happy as to learn who was my Creditor so that I had but a small portion left me with which I purposed to go by land to Venice Leghorn is so well known of all Gentlemen and Marriners that have seen Italy that it may seem needless to describe it Nevertheless since it is a part of my Province to take notice of such Towns as are in any regard eminent and famous I shall not ommit to say something briefly of it This City which is one of the chief Havens in renowned Italy was by Francis and Ferdinand great Dukes of Tuscany upon consideration of it's commodious site raised from a mean village to a great Emporium The said Dukes fortified it with a stone wall since which time it was gradually advanced by the encouragement of Trade and is at present strengthned with 5 Bulwarks and 2 Cittadels or Forts the one whereof commands the Haven and the other secures the Town on the Land side towards Pisa which is furnished with 60 great Guns About 6 English miles from the City is a Beacon for direction of Marriners by night there being many Rocks toward the South that are often the occasion of Ship-wrack and is therefore called Malhora These Rocks do cause impetuous breakings of the Sea which yet render the entrance of the Haven more free and secure So that Ships and Galleys may ride safely at anchor in this Road. The City on the out-side appears more magnificent than it is indeed inwardly The Frontispieces as well of Privat as Public Buildings being plaistered upon which are painted Sea-fights Histories and Landschap In the midle of the Town is a stately Market place and an Exchange where as at other Places Merchants meet and negotiate their Affairs Corn Flesh Fish and other necessaries are here very good and cheap which occasions almost all that are bound farther up to put in there for Refreshment On a Corner Stand four statues in brass representing the Father and 3 Sons who attempted to row away a Galley belonging to the Duke of Tuscany and ply'd so strongly that the rest of the Galleys had enough to do to overtake them and were ready to yield it for lost These 4 men were Moors and for that notable Essay are recorded with their Images in mettal which are set one against another with their Hands behind their back Leaving Leghorn I set forward for Pisa but before I was got half way was assail'd with 4 Highway men who were well mounted and arm'd two whereof allighted and clapt their Pistols to my breast bidding me deliver my money In the mean while they fell a searching of my pockets and breeches but not finding my money which I had stitch'd up in the lining of my Coat they gave me 2 bunches of Grapes and rode away On the 22 of February I came into Pisa where I took up my lodging for that night and the next day went to take a view of the Town It is seated at the foot of a great Hill about 8 leagues from the Sea between two Rivers Ausere and Arno and seems to be of ancient Standing It was made an University as some write about the year 1339 but began to grow out of Esteem till restored by Cosmo di Medicis Duke of Florence and afterward by Laurence his Nephew to whâ—m Vollaterran and Machiavel ascribe the Founding There are here several fair Churches that dedicate to Saint Iohn is a very stately building and renowned beyond any other Church in Italy for it 's costly Tower which is of admirable rare Workmanship The Church-yard otherwise called Campo Sancto is visited by many strangers which was made at that time when Frederic Barbarossa went to Warrs against the Infidels in the Holy Land to which Expedition those of Pisa assisted him with 50 Galleys But the said Frederic Barbarossa being casually drowned the Galleys returned back again all freighted with Earth of which they say the Church-yard is made On the 23 towards night I left Pisa and went to Florence Between which two Towns is the most delectable Fields and Valleys that ever I have seen either before or since insomuch that I thought my Journey neither long nor irksom though on foot On the 26 I entred Florence which is seated in a pleasant Valley ' and divided by the River Arno into two parts which is the same River that runs by Pisa On the West it hath the Champane land which is admirably delightfull on the East the Countrey is Hilly and stored with abundance of Fruit-trees and on some part it is fortified with the Appenin Hills This City is reckoned about 7 miles in compass and enjoys a subtile and wholsom Air which renders the Natives and Inhabitants more acute and of a sharper Genius than those that Inhabit or are born in places of a grosser The City which is divided by the River is again united by four stately Bridges which so beautify the Town that perhaps gave Charles the Arch-duke occasion to say that this was a City only to be seen on Holy-days The fertile Hills and rich Valleys wherewith it is environed affoard the Inhabitants plenty of all necessaries Here is the Court and Residence of the Duke The Palace being one of the most magnificent in all Italy yet far more spacious and splendid within than without but to recount the spacious Halls Pompous Antichambre Marble Statues and Pictures in the Galleries with all it's Appendencies were an endless labour Right over against the Pallace is a Lifeguard consisting of a hundred Germans Before the Palace is also a very stately Fountain adorned with huge Statues both of Marble and Brass out of which springs Water being all in emblematical representations Upon the Mercato Novo is a very sumptuous Building in which the Citizens meet and treat about the affairs of Merchandise The Palace of the Medici is a stupendious Fabric and for artificial carved works aswell in Wood as Stone and Pictures of the most eminent Italian Masters seems to aemulate the famous Vatican Besides these are many other inferior Palaces Bublic Puildings Churches Chappels
more fit for use On the 23 of February one of our company married with a Tartarian maid who had been taken Captive when she was a Child and brought up in the Christian Religion by the Heer van Sweden who taught her to write and speak Netherdutch both which she did expertly well And a day or two after was another of our Company married with a Lubekker both these two went with their Husbands to Astrachan On the 13 of March died the Empress in Child-bed who by reason of her great Charity Piety and the best of Vertues was much lamented by the Common People who oftentimes in distress were accustomed to address themselves to her as a Mediatrix The next day she was interred with great Pomp and magnificency for it is not their Custome as in other Countreys to embalm the Corps or to let it lie in State On each side the way stood the Guards but none follow'd or went before except some of the chief Personages about Court who walked a soft pace The Herse was cowered with a rich Canopy of cloth of Gold having Tassels and Fringe suitable born up by 8 young Lords After the Herse followd a Train of Noble-men led by the first Ministers of State who bore a Bag of money which the said Empress on her Death-bed had bequeathed to the Poor These followed next to the Emperour and his two Sons who were apparreled in a Garment lined with Black Fox skins which is a Fur of very high esteem The Emperour and his two Sons were supported each by two Gentlemen There were also the several Ministers of Forreign Courts present who were attired after the manner of their own Countrey these went on each side the Herse at a distance and after all followed an innumerable Train of Citizens and Forreign Merchants but those without any Order On this manner the Corps was brought into a Cloyster which she her self had founded and there committed to the Earth CHAP. IV. Situation of Moscou It 's Divisions and Wards Kitay-Gorod the first City The great number of Churches and Cloysters High Towers Noted Humility and Obedience of a Russian Gentleman The greatest Bell in the World at Moscou The Church of Jerusalem Zaar-gorod the second Skorodom the third and Strelitza Slowoda the fourth Town Great number of Houses within the City Moscou A great Fire whereby many Houses were consumed The coldness of the Climate Diseases proper to the Countrey Fertility and Products of the Land BEing constrained to tarry some time at Moscou against our will it gave me opportunity to take a view of the Town and to make what observations I could during the time of my aboad there which I shall according to my best knowledge impart to the Reader Moscou is the Metropolitan or Capital City of Moscovia and the Imperial City of Russia and all that is within the Jurisdiction of the Emperour whose Empire is bounded on the North with the white Sea on the East severed from the Samoieds and other Tartarian Countreys on the South it has the Mare Caspium and on the West part of Poland Lifeland and Sweden So that the large and wide Dominions of the Czar are extended as well into the Asian as the European Continent The City of Moscou which seems to have it's name from the noble River Moscqua lies in 50 degr 37 min. Northerly Latitude It is a very large City and computed to be about 30 or 35 English miles in compass yet was almost twice as great before it was taken in and depopulated by the Tartars It gives a very fair prospect from without by reason of it's many Towers and high Buildings This City is divided into 4 wikes or Wards to wit Kitay-gorod or midle City Zaar-or Czar-gorod the Emperours City Skorodom and Strelitza Slowoda These several Divisions seem rather so many distinct Towns or Cities whereof Kitay-gorod stands in the middest and is environed with a high wall which they call Crasna Stenna that is Red Wall It is feated between 2 Rivers to wit Moscqua on the South and the Neglina on the North which are united behind the Palace The Palace together with its Appendences to wit the Wall Horn-works Crescents and other Fortifications is the larger part of the Kitay-gorod called also Crim-gorod being well provided with Men and Ammunition In the midst of this Palace is a very stately Church in which we saw a Silver branched Candlestick formerly presented to the Czar by the Ambassador of our States Besides this Church is another dedicated to the Archangel where are to be seen the Tombs of those of Imperial blood as also Triotzis Maria and that of St. Nicholas which are both very sumptuous Those which are in Kitay-gorod without the Palace are also reputed the best and fairest in all Moscou being reckoned 56. Besides the Churches which are within the Walls of the Palace are 2 very beautifull Cloysters the one for Young Gentlemen and the other for Ladies who have resolved to live a monastichal Life altho the former may rather go under the denomination of an Ilustrious School because it is appointed for the Education of the Young nobility in all kinds of Literature and good Manners who at 16 Years have a choice preferred them whether they will lead a Ghostly or a Secular Life but that for the Ladies dispences not with such a Freedom but all that are admitted must continue durante vitâ In the middle of this Palace or rather Fort is a high Tower which the Russians call Ivan Velike that is Great Iohn being covered with Copper and double guilt This is that Tower on whose Top the Emperour Boris Gudenow as is to be seen in their Chronicles brought a Persian Ambassadour to view the City Moscou and amongst other discourse began to speak of the great Loyalty and Obedience of some subjects to their Soveraigns in past ages Whence the Emperour took occasion to say So faithfull are my subjects from the highest Bojar to the meanest Vassal that there is not one of them who would refuse to throw himself praecipitantly from the Top of this Tower if I thought good to command and thereupon calls a Bojar or Lord whom he instantly commanded to throw himself head-long down which after he had taken his Leave of his Imperial Majesty and those that were with him jump'd off from the highest pinacle where he was taken up dead buried with greated Solemnity and his Children promoted to the greatest Places of Trust in which they and their Descent continue till this day Besides this there is yet another Tower and one of the widest that ever I have seen in my life in which is the greatest Bell without doubt in the World weighing 394000 lb. and the Clapper 10000 lb. I measured it and found it 23 foot Diameter and 2 foot solid mettal It is as much as 50 strong men can move and that only so as may just be perceived It is seldom
another for the Calmuc-Tartars which 2 last-named may not come together altho they be both Mahometans and under the Jurisdiction of the great Duke The Calmuks dwell not in Towns as other People do but travail all over the Countrey pitching their Tents where they find a fertile fat Soil which when their Horses Camels Cows and small Cattel have eaten bare they break up and march forward to find out some other place as Historie records of the Scythians who without dispute were the same People Their chief and choice Diet is Horse-flesh which they eat raw after they have rode a litle upon it thrusting it between the Sadle and the Horse Upon the 15 of August we sailed past 2 Islands to wit Criusna and Saponoufka as also by the Hill Solottogory which is as much as to say Gold-hill so called from a rich booty of Gold the Tartarians had once taken in a Caravan which they divided among themselves by cap-fulls On the 16 ditto we came before the River Ruslan on the left hand right over against a round Hill called Vrak-ofskarul from one Vrak a Tartarian Prince who lies there buried This Beck comes from the famous River Don upon which River those that are called the Don-Cosaks have their being which also is the Countrey and Residence of Stenko Radzin In the year 1668 the Russes had build a new City at the Mouth of the River Ruslan to give a check to the Don-Cosacks who much annoyed the VVolga with their small Boats comming down the said River dayly in great Troops and committed many insolencies However it seems not much available for they have devised a new mean to shun the Fort and come into the VVolga by drawing their Boats over land upon Wheels which they do for 7 Dutch Leagues together for the Countrey there is flat and even The next day it began to blow very hard for which reason we were fain to remain that day at anchor and on the 18 th to set sail having a gentle Gale which brought us before the City Czaritza which is as much to say Caesarea or rather Empress lying on the Right hand at the foot of a Hill The City is in it self not great but very strong munited with 6 Ramparts or Bulwarks besides other Fortifications The Garrison is well maintained with Recruits of Strelitzers being a Place of great Trust and Importance especially for that it lies upon the Tartarian Continent On the 19 we came before the Place where Czares-gorod of old had stood by the Ruins thereof we could observe that City had been built of Brick It was demolished besides many others by Tamerlan the Great The stones have been of good use to those of Astrachan wherewith they built their Walls Towers Churches and Monasteries On the 20 we haled over several Riffs and shallow Foords and at last ran our selves aground upon a sand where we stuck 3 hours before we could yet clear From this place where we were fast all along the Banks to Astrachan grows great plenty of Liquirice but all the Land to the Caspian Sea wast and not fitt for Tillage On the 21 we got the Island VVesaway which we left on the Starboard-side and that Evening came before Tzornogar or Tzornojar being in regard of any requisite occasion in such a place considerably strong it is environed with Palizados and about an English mile without the Town On each side are several Watch-houses with Towers from whence they can see the Enemy at a distance the Countrey being level and not Woody The first occasion of the building of this City was said to be from a party of 400 Cosacks which had spoiled a Russian Caravan intercepting it between the Land and the Boats where the Strelitzers were that were appointed to Convoy it and by reason that the stream was so strong that the Boats could not row against it the said Robbers made their escape with a very rich Booty At that same time there was at Tzornogar a Persian Ambassadour arrived with all his Moveables and a great Retinue intending for Moscou The said Ambassadour came aboard our Ship and received Presents from our Officers which although he willingly accepted yet remunerated them with things of greater value and worth On the 22 we set sail and saw the Mountain Polowna where the Russian Fablers say the Moon goes every night to bed because that over that Hill is always a great mist About 2 in the afternoon we got the Island Kitzier in sight and speeded our course so that we gain'd the sight of Astrachan before the Sun set The 24 before noon by the grace of the Everlasting GOD we arrived at the long-wish'd-for Astrachan where we for Joy fired all our Guns to the Astonishment of the Inhabitants who had never seen a Ship of that Burthen and Force before From the day of our Arrival here we lay off in the stream till the first of September and then came up close to the Kay with our Ship and Yacht thanking the Almighty for his special Bounty in delivering us through so many perils and bringing us at last to our desired Port. CHAP. XII Situation of Astrachan The Inhabitants How Astrachan became subject to the Czaar Strange manner of Tents or Cottages Provision very cheap and Brandy dear A Desart affoarding good Salt and a strange kind of Fruit. The Form and Nature of the Nagayan Tartars Their Habit manner of Life and House-keeping Their Trades and way of earning money Horseflesh Mares-milk and Blood in great esteem by them A Strachan lies upon the Dividing of Europe from Asia upon the Island Delgoy in the Countrey of the Nagayan Tartars where the Northern Pole is elevated 46 degr and 22 min. above the Horizon and is about 50 Dutch Leagues from the Caspian or Hyrcan Sea It is environed with a thick stone wall and that time I was there furnished with 500 great Brass Cannon besides a very strong Garrison with Ammunition proportionable to defend it against the Tartars and Cosaks who have often had a design to retake it It gives a very noble prospect from abroad with it 's many Towers and Lofty Piles of Buildings as well what appertain to the Fortifications as to the Churches and Religious Houses It is a famous Town for Traffic frequented not only by all the Regions of Tartary adjoyning to the Caspian Sea but also by Persians Armenians and Indians who bring their Goods and Merchandises in a certain sort of Shipping which they call Boeses being about 80 Tun burthen a piece But these Vessels cannot Sail by traverse but alwaies before the Wind. Of all the several kinds of Merchandise which those of Astrachan deal in Silk is the chief so that this seems to be the sole Magazin of that Comodity whence it is re-exported up the Wolga and consequently through the whole Russian Empire Astrachan has been formerly the Royal Seat of the Nagayan Tartars but making a League with the Crim-and
his Head with his Body our Countreyment at Astrachan call Dickkop Thickpate But by the Persians Nachay that is Devourer This Fish is of a more than ordinary strength and somtimes will overturn a small Boat with a stroak of his Tail CHAP. XX. A Description of Derbent it's Walls The Sultans Court. Very old Ruins Divers Watch-towers Multiplicity of Sepulchrets without Derbent Their Slave-Market The Author sold again His Patron married with a Polish Woman and runs into Danger of his Life The Intention of his Patroness in running away from her Husband and taking the Author with her Two of Mr. Struys's Companions come to Derbent How they made their escape from the Tartars The great Inclination of the Sultan of Derbent to the Hollanders A Device put in practise to set one of the Authors Companions at Liberty The Prince takes the Wife of Brak for his own Brak makes his escape DErbent the first City under the Jurisdiction of the King of Persia on the Caspian Sea lies in 41 degr 50 min. northerly Latitude This City lies longwise East and West from the Sea side to the Land and is according to computation about 2 English miles long One side thereof lies so near to the Sea that the Waves beat against the Walls and in a Storm or tempestuous Weather the Surges rise over the Walls This is also reckoned as a Barrier against the Irruption of the Tartars and other Savages being the only place on all that Coast for many miles together where they can come ashoar for the Shoar is there naturally secured with a steep Bank and wholly inaccessible Wherefore this City is not improperly called Derbent which in their Language imports as much as The Kingdoms Key Der signifying a Key and Bent a Kingdom or Countrey and so the City Gammeron on the Indian Coast is called Bender which is the same Word with transposition of the Syllables and a little variation of the Dialect This Town is very strongly munited with a Stone-Wall and as some say was built by Alexander the Great who had here his Residence for som time althô there doth not any Building remain of his save only the Wall on the South side and the Fortress but all the Fortifications on the North were built by the famous Nauschirwan King of the Medes having no other Foundation than a solid Rock The Walls both on the North and the South side are so broad that Horses and Waggons may ride all along and the Stones are of a hard rock brought hither from a Hill not far distant from the Town being all equally 6 foot Square On the Wall of Alexander for it still bears his name is an oblong Stone having an ancient Inscription in old Syriac and Arabic Characters which none now a days can read The City Derbent is divided into 3 parts The uppermost Ward or Quarter stands on a rising Ground and has a Fortress furnished with Brass-Cannon and at that time when I was there and since the Uproar of the Cosacs it has bin Strengthned with a Garrison of 1000 or 1200 Soldiers and in this Quarter is the Sultans Court. The Midle Ward is inhabited by Persians but the Buildings go mostly to decay The Lowest Ward is about 2000 paces long but this part is only tilled and used for Gardens and as they say has been heretofore inhabited by Greeks bearing still the name of Schaher Iunan or City of the Greeks Above Derbent appear the Ruins of a Wall which reached from thence to the Necropont or Euxin Sea which has been a work of an incredible Charge and Labour In som places the said Wall appears very plain and is about four Foot thick Round about this City are also divers stone Redoubts whereof Four are furnished with Ammunition and a Garrison of Soldiers suitable to the Occasion of the Times In the Countrey round about are also the Ruins of many strong Castles insomuch that it plainly appears in what esteem this Place has bin with the Median and Persian Monarchs in times past Not far from this City are also som Watch-towers of Wood which are raised exceeding high so that they can with ease descry the approachment of an Enemy in time of War On that side of the Town which faces the Countrey are many Sepulchrets or Tombs som of an oblong form and others semicircular being in breadth about a mans length and hollowed so that a Man may easily ly in them In this great Sepulchre was in times past a famous Battel fought between Cassan King of the Medes and the Dagestan Tartars where the former had a notable overthrow with the loss of several Thousand men and the principal Heros and Leaders were buried in those Tombs Between this place and the Sea is also another Plat of Ground environed with a high wall wherein are 40 Tombs under which are so many Persian and Median Princes interred and made sacred to Memory Upon the Walls are several Flags pitched and by each an old Man to beg an Alms of such as out of Devotion and a Religious Zeal come to visit this place as it is throughout all Persia held very meritorious to visit the Sepulchres and Graves of the Deceased This Superstition besides that of Bathing is all the Ceremonies and Rules which their Religion prescribes the Women who receiv their Directions and are injoined by their Parents and Husbands what to do being secluded out of the Mosquees Within Derbent live no Christians but altogether Mahometans except a few Iews who boast themselvs to be descended from the house of Benjamin these commonly follow base and dishonorable Traffic as buying of Prize-goods and Booty taken at Sea which the Dagestan Tartars bring thither to market The rest of the Inhabitants likewise trade in buying and selling of Slaves that being the main and almost only Merchandize they deal in which they buy of the Dagestan Plagiaries and send all over Persia making an incredible gain thereof Those that are brought hither for Slaves are very unhappy for they are no more looked upon than an unreasonable Animal or Bruit and when they are about buying they pull of their Cloaths and grope them all over as if it were a Swine or a Calf Besides their low esteem they have for Slaves as to their Persons they are very unkind and void of Mercy so that were it not for the Loss of so much money very few of those wretched caitiffs would die a natural Death Those people being by nature very prone to Anger and besides that too jealous to live upon Earth thinking that if a Slave do but smile or cast a friendly look toward one of their Wives that something extraordinary must be in the case althô I had never reason to complain of my Patron for any such thing but one that lived in the neighbourhood was much addicted to that inquietude and restless humour The bed where I lay was upon the Top of the house for coolness sake
Candia about 13 Leagues distant insomuch that the Italians say Congo is a good Corps du guarde and a Lanthorn for the Christians to enter the Archipelago On the south-east side is a strong Fort built upon a proclive Rock and has but one way to enter it The nether-nether-City is populous enough and the Inhabitants very diligent in their respective callings Here they show'd us the Foundations and Ruins of a famous Temple dedicate to the Goddes Venus in the times of Gentilism The Land is very hilly but the Valleys rich and fertile having one Well of very good Water The Inhabitants are chiefly Greeks except the Garrisons and the Governour who is always a Venetian Nobleman From Cerigo we set sail for Candia the renowned City of Crete which now is also called Candia The Island lies about 47 degr Northerly latitude and is about 200 English land-miles in length lying almost East and West It has many Creeks and abundance of fair Cities of which the most noted are Candia Canea Retimo Sitio Apicormo Chysamo Melipotamo Garahuse besides a great number of unwalled Towns which they say amount to 650 all the inferior Villages and smaller Granges excluded out of the number The whole Island has been heretofore under subjection of the Venetians but at that time when I was there the Turks were Masters of all except the City Candia it self which was then under the Venetians and a few strong Holds as appendences on the Town which they held as is universally known for a considerable time together against the Ottoman Forces The Fortifications have been and are frequently altered according to the Discretion of the respective Governours and is from the very first Foundation famous for it's admirable rare Site and natural strength It lies in a fair flat Countrey the East and North Angles fronting the Sea Upon that Angle which lies to the northward was an impregnable Fort or Castle which had not only all the Fortifications that could be thought usefull or any way advantageous for the Town but also the Sea for a further strength which encompassed it as a Mote The same Castle has not only the Command of the Haven but also the Sea on both the right and left side Between this Castle and the City was a Wall of 20 foot broad on which the Soldiers marched from the one to the other Besides this the Town was munited with divers Ramparts Bulwarks and other Fortifications without that it seemed to me at that time and since the greatest folly in the World for the Turks to spend so much Treasure and loose so many of their best Soldiery in such a long Siege and so little hopes or encouragement of taking it in although at last they are become Masters of it The Citizens are Greeks as are most of the Inhabitants throughout the whole Island but the Garrisons and Gentry Venetians besides a great Concurrency of Strangers from all parts of the Levant which make the City very populous The most eminent Buildings are the Pallace of the General that of the Bishop which for its Antiquity and magnificent work is well worth seeing the Pallaces of several Noblemen and the Churches which are 8 in number to wit St Mark St Francis St Paul St George St Mary St Catharine St Rochus and St Titus amongst which the first is the Cathedral The Greeks have also their Churches but those so mean that the best which is allowed them is much inferior to the poorest of those which the Romans reserve for their own use Besides these there is not much in the City worth Observation As to the long Siege and Storming of this City 't were needless for me to give you any account since it has been from the very beginning traced along and fully written by others The Air of Candia is temperate enough but on that side facing Affrica is something hot and rendred unwholsom by southerly Winds for which reason most of the Towns are built on that side of the Island which lies next to the Archipelago The Soil is exceeding good and all kinds of Grain and Pulse take kindly well insomuch that sometimes one piece of ground affoards two Crops in one year Yet the Inhabitants are more inclinable to the planting and cherishing of the Vine which they cultivate with all imaginable diligence that being far more profitable than the propagation of Grain and other Husbandry their Malmsey Red and white Wines being exported every where and reputed the best that Earth can produce But they have two sorts of Malevaise or Malmsey differing greatly both in tast and quality the better sort is that which grows about Retimo that they boil so soon as the Grape is ripe and are very curious in the preparation and ordering of it but that about Candia and Canea but ordinary for there they let the Grapes be rath ripe before they pluck ' em and therefore boil them not but the Wine that comes from them has a kind of slimy matter in it of which it is not to be purified Here I have seen the Wine-stocks grow thicker than any where else which is a great Argument of the excellent Soil with which this Island is blessed and besides that the vast bigness of the Bunches weighing mostly 8 or 10 pound a piece and those so delicate that after I had once tasted of these could not for some years after so much as tast the Spanish And not only Grapes but also every other fruit the Land affoards is passing good and delicate insomuch that not only the Turkish Emperour but all the Princes and Potentates near this Island have their Fruits from hence for Table use and Banquet Whole Groves and Woods I have seen several Leagues in compass having little or nothing but Trees bearing the best kinds of Fruit as Citrons Pomegranates Oranges Apricocks Figs Almonds Olives and many sorts of Apples Pears and Nuts Cypress wood is in this noble Island in greater plenty than in Cypres it self which they do not only use for Timber which gives a very amiable smell but also for Fewel The Common pasturage which the Inhabitants neither use for Grain nor the Vine is all grown over with Rosemary Thyme Camomile Abroton or Southern Wood and other Herbs which the Apothecaries use Nay the very Weeds which with us have no sent affoard here a most amiable flavour for which Candia is often called an Earthly Paradise All kind of Cattel like well especially Sheep and Goats which run together in incredible Flocks Hares Coneys Heath-hens and Partridges abound here The Woods and Hills are stored with 3 or 4 sorts of Deer and the Rivers with Fish The Honey which Candy affoards is preferred before all other in the World and that by reason of the abundance of Thyme and other choice Herbs as also the various Blossoms of Pomgranats Citrons Oranges c. and consequently Wax is a great Commodity amongst them The
or ornament The Town it self gives a noble Prospect if you view it from without by reason of the many Parish-Churches and Towers it has but when you come within it appears very ugly the streets are irregular without Uniformity and the Houses built after multifarious manners so that the poorest Village in the Low-Countreys is a Paradice in comparison of Pletskou 'T is true they have some Houses of stone but the most eminent and wealthy Citizens chuse rather to live in Wooden-Houses than in those for that they say The latter are more wholsom Here I happened to meet with a Hamburger and after we had exchanged a few words together concerning our journey from Riga I told him of my rouzing the Bear He replyed that I was happy to make my escape so since not only men are sometimes devoured by them but also Horses and Kine and withal told me how that they dig up the Graves for the Bodies of the Dead when they are hungry But more lamentable was a story he told me of a She-Bear that in the year 1656. broke by night into a House in the Country not far from thence where she had found the Woman of the house with a sucking Infant in the bed with her The woman she devoured leaving only a part of her left leg and a litle of the Scalp but the Infant was altogether mist whence it was concluded that the Bear had eaten it up as being young and consequently more delicate Not long after this dismal hap the Peasant took his Musquet with him into the Woods not far from his House with intent to shoot an Otter which haunted his Fish-pond and by the way espies a Bear at which he levels his Musquet and hits him directly on the skull The Bear as the custom is when shot rolls himself in a heap the Peasant runs to her and finding it a Female and her Duggs full of Milk resolves the next day to make search for her Seat for then he thought that her VVhelps would be hungry and yell out The day following he went out to seek the Cave taking 2 or 3 other Peasants with him who being about the Middle of the VVood on the side of a hill heard a young child cry and following the direction of the sound found his own Infant in the cleft of a great Rock which he took and brought to Pletskou to be nurs'd up by his VVives Sister where out of curiosity I went to see it In the Suburbs of Pletskou was to be seen a shank-bone of a Giant 5 foot long which together with the whole Skeleton was found in a Tomb of stone by the Boors when they were digging up the roots of Trees that they had burn'd up On the 26 th it began to freeze hard and afterwards to snow which made us uneasy for our delay being constrained to wait here so long till we received the Poddowodda which is an Order given by his Imperial Majesty that every Town we came at should furnish us with Horses Wagons Bedding and defray our other Charges On the 28 towards night came an Express from Moscou and the next day we set forward intending first for Novogorod This part of our Journey was much more easy and delightfull than that through Lifeland which was altogether desert and Marshy this on the contrary inhabited and till'd On the 31 th we came at a great Lake before Novogorod where we left the Sledges and were fetch'd over in a kind of a Cymb or Boat which is made of a hollow tree and by them called Knoos of these they had two sorts the one for Passengers who may sit 4 or 5 at a time the other broader and every way larger fit to transport Goods This Lake is very broad but shallow not having above 5 foot Water in most places When we were set over our Goods were put into Sledges and brought after us into the Town In passing through the Town we found the Suburbs far greater than the City it self which as appears by the Ruins of the Walls has been formerly a well fortified Place In times past it was neither subject to the Russian Swede nor Polander but had a Prince who coined Money and ruled as absolute Soveraign with an independent and arbitrary Power Yea to so high a state was it once advanced that it was grown to a Proverb GOD and Novogorod who is able to withstand Their Puissance I need not dispute since it is well known to those that are acquainted with Geography what Sway the Princes of Novogorod have born and what a name this City has had abroad for her Wealthy Merchants and great commerce with other Places About the year 1477 it was besieged and storm'd by Ivan Vasilowitz Great Duke of Moscovia who took away all the Priviledges and Immunities of the Citizens since which time their Wealth and Traffic began to decline and decay However by reason of it's commodious Situation it retains the footsteps of its former Trade and is especially frequented by Swedes Danes Hamburgers and Lubeckers who come up the River Nerva with their small Shipping The chief Commodities they deal in are Wheat Ry Lin-and Rapeseed Furrs Hemp and Flax. The Countrey is blessed with a good Soil and produces sufficiently enough of what is requisite to human sustenance which is here very cheap This is reckoned the best place in all Moscovia for River-fish especially Pikes and Perch Salmon they have in great abundance as also Carp Bream and Sturgeon with other kinds not commonly found in the Low-Countreys Novogorod which is as much as to say New-town or Newton being compounded of the Latin word Novus and the substantive Gorod in the Moscovian Tongue a City is at this present strengthned only with a Wall of Timber but well provided with Ammunition and Brass Ordnance On the one side is a strong Castle with a high stone-wall which as then was the Residing place of the Primate or Arch-bishop of the West-Province and some other Temporal Lords The greatest Decorum and Ornament of this City is the Pomp and stateliness of the Churches and some Public Edifices as at Pletskou but the Houses and Private Dwellings of the Inhabitants without any Order or neatness of Structure Between the Castle and the Town is a long wooden Bridge where the beforenamcd Ivan Basilowitz a great Tyrant threw in some Thousands of the Inhabitants When you enter the Town by that way you come within view of a famous Cloyster dedicate to Saint Anthony which Saint they beleeve and will perswade you came driving on from Rome out at the Tyber through the Aegean Sea the Propontis the Negropont the Mare Caspium and so up the Wolga to Novogorod upon a Milstone where he met with a company of Fishers with whom he covenanted for a certain some of Money that the first thing they took should be his The Fishers drew their Net and brought up a Chest which was full of Money besides a Ghostly Attire
Kopeke the Couple and satisfyed my Chapman to the full On the 13 we came to Omula which is a Village about 40 English Leagues from Dydenof After two days Sailing we came to Pereslaf which is a small City rebuilt as I have been told out of the Ruins of Resanski which formerly was a famous Town surprized by the Tartars demolished and the Inhabitants removed to Pereslaf On the 17 we came close to Resanski where we viewed the Ruins of the City which testified the former Greatness and Strength of the Town From hence we sailed to the Eastern side of the River where we saw many famous Houses and stately Buildings with Fair Orchards and Groves On the 18 we saw many goodly Towns and Religious Houses and at night arrived at Novosolki a Place solely belonging to the Arch-Bishop Here we bought provision and all kinds of Refreshments that the place affoarded finding all things very cheap and good and from hence we sailed away passing by Schilko Tericho Tinersho Slavada Koponaw and other fair Towns On the 22 we came to Kassienie-gorod a beautifull litle City and the Residence of Prince Reskitski Our Captain and Master intended to visit the said Prince and for that end came here to Anchor but coming a shoar understood that he was departed for Moscou with the old Princess his Mother However they went to view the Palace and were magnificently entertained by the steward of whom after the Exchange of some Rarities on both sides by way of Presents they took their leaves Kassieme-gorod has been formerly a Hold of the Tartars but the present Prince at the age of 12 years surrendred it up to the great Duke of Moscovy whom he as then obtained to be his Protector On the 23 we sailed past many fair Villages Churches Monasteries and other Houses built for Religious uses coming the next morning to anchor before Leshi which is a very great Town but not walled On the 24 we came before Moruma a Town inhabited partly by Russes and partly by Mordwin-Tartars whose Countrey begins here although both the City Moruma and the Circumjacient Land-ship is at present under subjection of his Majesty of Russia On the 27 we sailed by Prewas Palo and some other lesser Towns Near this Place are two Rivers which vent themselves into the Wolga the one called Morsna Reka on the starboard and the other Klesna on the larboard-side in sailing downward which last comes from the City VVolodomur The Bank on the one side is very high Land and steep yet above level and fair Land but to the Northward the Bank is level with the Water and the Land woody and desert nether inhabited nor tilled to any purpose On the 28 we sailed past Isbuilets and Troitska dropping anchor before Slowoda On the 24 we set Sail and came that day before Dudwina where we were forced to remain 4 days and 4 nights by reason of the tempestuous weather The boistrous Winds and Rain somewhat abated we set sail and on the 3 of Iune came before Nofunki and the 8 before the great City Nisen Novogorod situate on an angle of the great River Wolga which is there conjoined with the Oka Nisen-gorod lies in the Latitude of 36 degr and 28 min. under a wholsome climat and in a fertile Countrey It is well fortified with Walls Bulwarks Towers Men and Ammunition of War About 2 English miles without the City live more Inhabitants than within being Russes and Tartars but in subjection to the great Duke The Germans had formerly built two Churches here one for the Lutherans and another for the Calvinists both which went to decay upon their leaving the Town It is here very cheap living and all things necessary for the sustenance of Human Bodies may be procured at easy Rates The Pastures abound with Cattel the Villages with Poultry the Woods with Venison the Rivers with Fish and the Land with Corn Fruit Roots and Plants Butter we bought there for 10 gl the 100 lb. which is after the rate of 2 d per pound and yet we esteemed that the dearest Purchase we bought there We bought there a good sort of Linnen for 2 stivers the Ell which served us well for shirting and other uses aboard the Ship And by reason of the Cheapness of Provision and all necessaries we received here 6 Moneths pay and because that they had here an excellent Ropeyard the Heads of our Company thought good to leave the Lieutenant Schack with our chief Boatswain to look after some Ropes which we had given order to be made as also to fit us with new Anchors On the 21 dito we put off from Nisen and left the Wolga This is reputed one of the greatest and longest Rivers in the whole World taking it's beginning in the highest Mountains of Nova-Zembla running past Ierislaf or Ierislaw Tweer and other eminent Cities whence with many Windings and Turnings it runs through the Land till it come at Astrachan where it divides it self into several Heads like the Nile and so looses it self into the Caspian Sea receiving by the way many great and navigable Rivers and those mostly on the Northeast side from whence by reason that the River receives it's Water it is subject to rising and falling as at Iune it is at highest and in Iuly begins again suddenly to decrease insomuch that it is in all places full of Banks and Sand-beds as hereafter in the pursuit of my Journal shall more particular and ample mention be made whereas when it is increased to it's heighth one may sail over several Islands This said River is in some places more than 3 English miles broad and proving in other places very narrow makeing at each side of the River a Whirl-pool which cannot be avoided without great difficulty The course of this River from Nisen to Casan is mostly East and South-East but from Casan to Astrachan and so to the Mare Hyrcanum or Caspian Sea altogether South On each side the River you have for the most part very good Land and many fair Towns as I have already noted whose Inhabitants are sedulous in their Husbandry and are well supplyed with the particular Products of all the several Landships adjacent on this noble River as also with many sorts of excellent Fish In times past the Wolga was much incommodated by the Cosaks of Don who being very strong in small shipping would sometimes surprize assail and take the Russian Fishermen and Strougs On the 22 we passed by the Islands Tlerinski and Subsinski but towards the Evening were fain to drop anchor by reason of the many Sands and Banks On the 23 we weighed but found our Anchor fast among the Roots of the Trees which cost us some pains to get clear About mid-day we got the Island Dioploy about 3 in the afternoon Musa and about the Evening Kremonsky where we anchored On the 24 we proceeded forward and got Parmino where we took in Provision which we found
his own considerations how that his Countrey in all probability would in case he continued refractory be overrun and he himself with all his Race be secluded from the Monarchy The Tartarians had 2 Generals Brethren and equall in command whereof the elder called Mendligeritz erected a Statue in Moscou to which he obliged and injoyned the Moscovians to pay certain Homages The younger called Sapgeri marched on for Casan where he had his Residence thinking that because it had formerly been a Soveraignty and that the Footssteps and Reliques of a wasted Kingdom were still apparent he might the better erect and rear a new Monarchy upon the Foundations of an old Mendligeritz the elder marched with his Army towards Rhesan well knowing that the great Power of that Province might check him upon opportunity So soon as he was set down before the Town he signified the occasion of his coming sent the Governour a Copy of the Articles signed by the Czar demands the Town and willed him to surrender But the Governour who was a Gentleman both of known Fame and Worth in regard of his rare Conduct in several Battails at the Head of an Army let him know That all the Infidels and Barbarians in the world should not deterr him so far as to transgress his Duty and Oath since he himself had no such Intelligence from his Lord the Great Duke and till he had Assurance of what the Tartarian General had advised him about concerning such Articles he would defend the Town and Cittadel The General upon this Answer sent him the Original of the prementioned Articles and so willed him to avoid Blood-shed but the Governour detained the Messengers and kept the Schaedule resolving to stand out the Siege Upon this the Tartars raised the Siege and attempted to storm the City but those within couragiously defended themselves and plai'd of their Canon together with an incessant shooting of Arrows at the Enemy that they were forced to retreat and remove the Siege to another side of the Town where some disloyal Russians had acquainted them that the place was weakest and consequently the most easy to be storm'd however finding no hopes of gaining the Town the Tartarian General sent a Herauld to urge the Governour to resign the Papers declaring himself thereupon willing to draw off his Forces which the Governour refusing the General left the Town Several Narratives were sent off to Moscou which occasioned a general Joy and incouraged the Townsmen to revolt and unanimously fall upon the Garrison who being incapable to make resistance were fain to submit and beg Quarter The Statue of Mendligeritz was also pulled down and broke to pieces in detestation of his Tyranny The Czaar immediately upon these news gathered all the Forces he could which when drawn to field amounted to 25000 Men and marched forward to Casan where he gave the Tartarians Battail and after a hot fight gain'd the Camp the Enemy retiring into the Western Provinces of Tartary shortly after the Czar died without the performance of any honorable atchievment save that during the time of his Reign But Ivan Basilowitz son to the deceased Emperour seeing the good footsteps of his Father and perceiving a sure foundation Levies a new Army and recruits the Old with well experienc'd Germans but having no trusty Person to whom he durst commit the new Army as Commander in chief he joyns the Forces himself leading marches so in the Head to Casan which City when he had besieged 8 weeks and lost many men fearing likewise that Mendligeritz might come to assist them he gave them Offers of Peace which nevertheless the Tartars would not accept expecting succour from the Field-Army Ivan Basilowitz thought it high time either to take up the Siege or to storm it on a sudden which last he resolved upon and accordingly set 70 German Pioneers at work who did the work so effectually and without discovery of the Enemy within that they had under-mined the Northeast Gate in the space of 24 Hours or less and thereupon blew it up which done the Moscovians surprized them within and made themselves Masters both of the Town and Cittadel The Townsmen obtained Quarter althoug the Great Duke had threatned the Contrary for that they had twice rebelled against the Imperial Crown and of their own accord sent succour to the Enemy when it was not in the lest urged from them The Czar being now Master of Casan fortified it with a strong Wall Towers and Bulwarks But now to our present Journal After the Deputy of Casan had throughly visited our Ship and well entertained by our Officers aboard he departed with the Metropolitan ashoar and entreated us all to come up to Casan which we did and received a reciprocal kindness from him there When we returned aboard the Mobile followed us with Music and Dancing a good part of the way On the 10 th we received a good Quantity of Lead aboard which we were to unload at Astrachan On the 13 th I got permission of the Officers to go up to Casan to buy some Biscake for my own use which I had for a mean price and having much more than I could use I sold it and got a considerable profit as well of the Officers as the Foremast men for we were to take care for our own Victualling CHAP. XI Departure from Casan The strange manner of taking Fish Cities demolished by Tamerlan The Ship run fast aground The Salt-Pans and manner of making Salt Difficult Sailing in the Wolga A New City built for defence against Robbers and Pyrates The great abundance of Liquirice about Astrachan The Land of the Calmuc-Tartars ON the 17 ditto leaving Casan we set Sail and that morning were aground 2 several times but without much difficulty got clear again On the 18 we came close to an Island called Staritzo where we anchored our Pilot went ashoar to view the said Island and coming about 3 furlongs within land found stones of the shape and bigness of Lemmons which being broken had within the similitude of a star but those not all alike in Colour for some were like Gold others like Silver and others of a Yellow and Tawny colour This Island is situated in 45 degr 31 min. being of it self about 3 Dutch Leagues in length and 2 broad On the 19 we got the Island Potenski where we came to anchor expecting that a great storm would come on Upon the 22 we sailed past the Buytma which is a branch of the famous River Lanca being about 12 Dutch Leagues from Casan This same River has it's Rise or Fountain about Chambretoky which lies to the North-east of Casan Here we met with a company of Fishermen of whom we bought some Bream which they take in great Abundance and after an od way which if time had permitted us we would have learned On the 23 we came to a very pleasant Coast where we went to ashoar and found there the Ruins of a great City
which had been made wast by Tamarlan While we lay here it began to blow very hard and the next day we were fain to keep at anchor In the mean time I went with some of our Ships Company to the Hill Arbuchin where we found the Ruins of another City bearing one name with the said Hill In ascending the Hill we found a great stone with this Inscription in old Russian Words and Letters IF THOU WILT REMOVE THOU SHALT NOT LOSE THY PAINS Some Russians had a mind to see what would come of it and after long digging and much struggling at last got it turn'd over but instead of finding a Treasure met with another Motto which was THOU ASS GO SHAKE THY EARS This vexed them so that they rather willed to let it stand in that posture than take the pains to set it as it was before to deceive others The Land round about is very fair and withall of a fat Soil yet not cultivated for there are no Inhabitants but the Relicts of several Towns and Villages formerly depopulated by the famous Tamerlan On the 17 we sailed past the River and City of Adrobe lying in the heighth of 54 degr and 48 min. At the mouth of this River we were again set fast and after much labour and all the means we could imagine to be any way helpfull we gave the Ship and Yacht both over for lost but in the Evening it began to Thunder and abundance of Rain fell that the River began to swell and so set us adrift again On the 29 we came before Calmaka where were many Salt-pits and two new Towns We found there several Pans where the Russes made their Salt which they fetch out of great hollows and cavernal Rocks this being boiled is sent up the Wolga in Stroughs and so dispersed over the whole Countrey of Moscovia These Salt-pits keep abundance of Men in imployment and is no small profit to the Overseers On the 30 th we set sail again and after half an hours sailing ran aground upon a sand where after much ado we gott off but with the Loss of an Anchor and 80 fathom of our Cable The next day it began to storm very hard wherefore we thought good to come to anchor for the River was here about very perillous and so we were fain to continue till the 4 of August On the 5 th of August we came to Morrakzy where we saw abundance of Fishers of whom we bought some Cavear and Sturgeon having as much of that Fish as 20 Men could eat for the value of 11 stivers or one shilling sterl Here we were forced to tarry for the space of 24 Hours by reason of the hard Wind lying near the Island Kistowato where is a very shoaring or slanting strand on both sides which makes the stream of the Wolga at that place very narrow and deep Here we saw the River Ussa which encompassing Samara almost round empties it self into the Wolga On each side this River is a fair and pleasant Countrey so far as one can view but we were informed by the Russes that it was there very dangerous to travail by reason of Robbers and the vagabond Cosaks who kept themselves in the Woods whence they sometimes salley out in whole bands and surprize Passengers The Cosaks also haunt the River having Boats which are made long and small with which they row admirably swift On one side of the Ussa are some Mountains and amongst those one of an incredible heighth called Sariol Kurgan where they say an Emperor of the Tartars with 70 Kings ly buried when they came up the Wolga with intent to invade Russia which Mountain being bare and rocky they say that the Soldiers carried up so much Earth and Mold as was sufficient Some of those Mountains are woody and other some bare stone and cliffs On the 8 th we sailed forward and came to Samara which is so called from a certain River that runs through it where it runs into the VVolga The City is built four Square and mostly of Wood only the Churches and Cloysters are built of stone The day following we saw the Mountain Cosak-krim so called from the Cosaks which were there beat by the Moscovian Army having sadly molested all the Countrey under the subjection of the Czaar by a continual Plundering but having at that time received such an overthrow could never since complete so great a Body as might be any way obnoxious to the Russians Behind Samara the Mountains are very high but Cosak-krim surpasses all the rest for heighth About the going down of the Sun we sailed past the Island Pantzina and the next morning found our selves as far as Sagenisko On the 11 we sailed past the Island Zagra where we met divers Fishers-boats and supplied our selves with fresh Fish Here we had news that a great number of Cosac-Rebells were entred the Island Satyry-Boggere at the mouth of the VVolga on the Caspian Sea and annoyed the River On the 12 we sailed by several Islands namely Sasnow Ossino Schipnamago Koltof and other not inhabited The next day we saw the Mountain Smiowa which in their Language is as much as to say a Snake or Dragon having it's name as I conjecture from its similitude of a Snake rising up into hillocks and falling down again into gaps like a serpent when he creeps Although the Russes as also the Inhabitants tell us a Fable of a famous Cavalier who went out to kill a monstrous Animal like a Snake that wasted all the Countrey round about and devoured every day 50 Men for a Break-fast The Knight having killed the serpent it was metamorphosed into a Rock which is now this Mountain The day following we came before Saratof where we cast anchor This City lies in 52 degr 12 min. in a valley upon a Branch of the VVolga on the larboard side in sailing down and is only inhabited by a Military Officer and a Garrison of Soldiers to free the River and Countrey of the Cosacks and Calmuc-Tartars whose Countrey is bounded here These Calmucks are the most ougly and mishapen People in the World worse favoured by far than the Hotentots or Moors which are Angels in Comparison of those Their Faces are broad and almost four square their noses flat their mouths reaching almost from one ear to the other their Eies long and small upon their Heads they wear a Quoif the rest of their Habit is sufficiently denoted in the following Plate They seldom go afoot but mostly on Horseback as if they were Centaurs for some of them do not only eat and drink but also sleep upon their Horses Their only weapons is the Long-bow which they use with an admirable Dexterity There is a continual enmity between those and the Nagayans for they perpetually steal one anothers Children and Cattel which they bring to Astrachan to Market for there they have 3 several market days one for the Russians themselves another for the Nagayans and
Merchants where they ordinarily find all things at an available price The Slaves being brought to Market the Buyer goes about and seeing one he likes the first thing he does is to look him in the mouth as we do Horses causes him to be stript and feels him all over but especially his Wrists and Muscles thence collecting what strength he is of and what service he is able to do him If the Buyer intend to imploy him about Messages he causes him to run out 10 or 12 Paces others make them to stand in all Postures and so value them according to their Age soundness of Body and strength If the Buyer chance to find any reasonable fault failing or blemish in his Slave within the space of 3 daies he may return him to the seller and receive the value again and this advantage has the Buyer also in most other things or if I am not mistaken in all save damageable Commodities On the 12 the Calenter who is next to the Chan in Power and Office came to our Ambassador with an Order from the Scach to bid him make preparation for his Journey and in all hast to depart But the Ambassador returned him his wonted reply That he was at present destitute of Money and not able to undertake the Journey unless the Chan would pay him what he was owing him upon the receipt of which he would immediatly go without more or further delay CHAP. XXVI A dreadfull Tempest Great Balls of Fire fall upon the Earth A most fearful Deluge whereby Houses Men and abundance of Cattel are carried away The Chan receivs another Robe of Favour The Offerings of the Banjans for the Fowl and Fish The Religious Exercise of the Persian Women The Author's Discourse with the Chan. The Author meets with one of the Tartars who had made him Slave He gets out of the service of the Polish Ambassador The great Bounty and Kindness of his Patron Hadzi Biram and of Altine his Patroness One of his Company made free ON the 13 was a violent storm with Thunder and Lightning which very much endamaged the Ambassadours House and took away the Roof of many other Houses round about The Air was as if it had been all Fire and a Sulphury flame and somtime were seen great balls like burning Brimstone falling down About 8 in the Evening I saw a great massy lump of Fire which made the Earth shake again when it fell and so burst all to pieces Formidable I thought were the great Ordnance in the Dardanelli when they were discharged being reputed the greatest in the World But there was as much difference between this and them as there is between a Mountain and a Mole-Hill About 2 hours after fell down 6 more which were as big as Hogs-heads these consumed and wasted a great part of the ground where they light This Tempest continued about 48 hours after which followed a very calm season On the 15 we had news from Ardebil how that Monsr Termund with P. Arentsz his servant were arrived there safe and well althô not without som difficulty by the way meeting with some Robbers but the Konjack telling them that he was sent to the Schach on an Express they let him go without further trouble The next day fell abundance of Rain that all the whole Face of the Countrey round about Scamachy lay under Water and the streams coming from the Mountains brought down huge Pieces of Rocks and Stones which came down into the Town and carried away several Houses with them as also many People who were on every side environed with the Floods that they could not help themselves This Tempest concluded with fearful Thunder-claps and Lightning as if the last day were com On the 17 the Chan had a Robe of Favour sent him from the King The Envoyé who brought it being arrived at the Kings House without the City sent notice and acquainted the Chan with his coming who according to the Custom set his House in order and took leav of his Friends fearing that this was upon a sharper Errand than the last the more I suppose because my Patrons Brother had been at Ispahan to acquaint the King that his Brother the Polish Ambassador had such a sum of Money due to him from the Chan and could not for the want thereof undertake his Journey for Warsaw The Chan makes preparation to go and know the Kings Pleasure being mounted on a stately Arabian Horse and followed with a great Retinu of Nobility and Courtiers all well mounted as before So soon as he was com there the Envoyé fulfills his Commission and delivers the Robe after the same manner with the same Ceremonies as were before mentioned and having taken his leave of the Courier returned into the City with variety of Wind-Music Kettle-drums and Trumpets On the 18 of August we had a great Earth-quake which raged a long time together in which many Dwelling Houses Stables and Barns without the Walls on the East-side of the Town were thrown down and abundance of Men crush'd to pieces When the Earthquake was past it began to rain very hard and blew extremely The same day I had occasion to go without the Walls where walking a litle towards the Fields I saw about 100 Benians performing Sacrifices to the Fowls and Fish They lay upon their knees and strowed Rice and Beans upon the Land and in the River These Indians will never kill any living Creature not so much as Lice which althô they take yet set them down in som place or other to pasture and let them shift for themselvs When they see any Person go out a Birding with a Fowling-piece Ginns or other Implements they will give him Money to go home again or if they perceiv any one about to shoot they will be sure to spoil his Game by chacing away the Fowl insomuch that if the Party be a Choleric man they are in danger of their Lives The like they doe with the Fish when they see any com to Angle and trouble the water When they are about to make water or ease themselvs they alwaies look about them if there be no Vermin or any thing that hath life upon the Ground which if there be they remove it away very carefully lest they should do it harm During the time of these Festival Days which happens 8 times a year they will burn no Candle Tapour or Torch lest Muskettos and other Insects that fly about the Flame should singe their Wings They have also offered the Chan a considerable sum of Money that no Beast should be slain during the time of these Feasts but the Chan would not listen to any such thing These people are also very superstitious in many other things and withall strict and zealous They will not use either Dish or any other Vessel belonging to such as are not of their own Sect yet will suffer others to make use of theirs They abstain
pristin State On the 2 of Decemb. we set forward and came in good time to Sultanie a City lying in 36 degr and 30 min. Northerly Latitude It is situated between two rows of very steep Mountains and toward the West we saw the Mountain Keydar Peyamber whose lofty top seems to support the Heavens this being next to Ararat the highest Mountain I have ever seen The City Sultany affoards a most noble Prospect from abroad by reason of her many lofty Piles magnificent Churches high Towers Pyramids Obelisks and Cylinders which still remain notwithstanding the furious Irruption of the savage Tartars under conduct of the valiant Tamerlan who with many other Towns laid this level with the Ground save the great and stupendious Fabrics even now remembred which when one is within Town look like a set of Nine-pins or the Stones on Salisbury Plain so that this which was reputed one of the Royal Cities is meaner than most villages It was built by Sultan Choddabende a very rich and potent Prince who besides many famous Conquests in Persia and Usbec subdued the greatest part of Turky and many Indian Kingdoms and Provinces som of which still remain under the subjection of the Schach of Persia This City he called Sultanie from the Honorary Title of Sultan for so the Kings of Persia who are now called Schach were of old entitled as also at present the Ottoman Emperour Notwithstanding the abovesaid devastation of this City appear yet many signal Monuments of it's former Glory amongst which is the splendid Court and Palace of the great Choddabende called The Emarath This was fortified on each side with strong Walls and several greaâ— Bulwarks altogether built of huge square Stones of 3 Foot Diameter it had also 4 high Towers but strong and of neat Workmanship Within is a very noble Sepulchre built by Sultan Choddabende himself who lay here interred but the too great Piety of his Successor woulâ— not suffer his Bones to rest but removed them to the Meschaichâ— Ardebil In entring this Sepulchre one must pass thrô three very higâ— Gates all made of Indian Steel very neatly polished and as smootâ— as Glass this being the same Mettal of which the Damaskin or Ardâ—bil Scymiters are made and is praeferred before any other Stâ— that is used That Gate which leads out to the Maydan as the Persiaâ— would perswade themselvs and us cannot be opened by any Force buâ— when one prays to GOD for the sake of his Servant Aly that may open it opens of it's self The Building is very high contractinâ— its self at top into the manner of a Tower and within is set witâ— white and blew Tiles of Porceline Above where it begins to draâ— its self into the form of a Tower is a Partition of Steel Barrs whicâ— makes a handsom Chore. In this Partition or Quire I saw many Books written in Arabic Characters some whereof were above 30 Inches long I opened one of them and found an interlineary change oâ— Gold and Black lines like the Rubrics in the Roman Breviaries Lâ—turgies and Mass books Behind the Altar is the Tomb where Sultâ— Muhamed Choddabende lay interred but parted from the Body of thâ— Chore with great and massy Barrs of Indian Steel which the Persiaâ— say was all of one piece no place appearing where it might seem tâ— be well'd or set together and that it was seven years a making iâ— India In this said Emarath are 20 pieces of Brass Ordnance every Carridge having 4 wheels a piece and the Balls lying by them oâ— white Marble these are made forsooth for defence of the H. Sepulchre The Tower above is 8 square and on each side a Gallery anâ— upon each Gallery a small Turret going up with Winding-stairs Before this Temple is a Fountain the curious Work whereof showâ— the great skill and dexterity of the Workman that ordained it it receives its Water by an Aqueduct from the Keydar and behind the Emarath is a very pleasant Garden with Walks and Rows of diveâ— sorts of Trees Besides this illustrious Pile of Sultan Choddabende is another built by Schach Ismael the first This is also to be ascended by stairs Within are seen many fair Pillars and Arches upon which the Roof leans and the inside of the Walls is all laid with white and blew Tiles of Porceline Right before the Door within the first Court stands a fair Pyramid of a reasonable Height There is also a very fair Plesure-garden adjoyning to this Palace Not far from thence is also a fair Arch but somthing dilapidated resting upon 2 Columns or Obelisks 162 Foot high About an English Mile and a half without Town are to be seen the Relicts of a Gate which they say was built by Sultan Choddabende whence it appears that the Extent of this City has been very great althô as was said is now not very great nor much frequented by Trading People subsisting mostly by the Caravans after which they long as greedily as a Landlord for Quarter day Five days we tarried in Sultante to rest having almost tired our Camels and Horses which by that time were again in a travailing Condition During our aboad here I was shorn after the Persian fashion and could pass Muster for a Musulman and with more freedom visit what was worthy of remark and by them reputed sacred being thereto perswaded by my Companion who was a Russ called Ferrath and that I might not be bewray'd by my speech he bad me counterfeit my self dumb and when occasion serv'd to make signs he taking upon him to interpret for me which at once both secured me from Affronts and gave me the occasion to see their Sanctuaries which was refused many Georgians notwithstanding considerable Sums they had proffered to see the Sepulchres On the 7 th we set out and came at night to Syllebek where we took up our Nights-lodging having this day very good way and with all pleasant for on each side were fair Meadows Pasture and Corn-fields and by the way many neat villages with Orchards Gardens and Summer-Houses which made the Time seem short and the Journey no way taedious Leaving Syllebek we came the next day at night to Choramdeky which for it's many Gardens seems to be a Paradise It is also watered with a good River which glides thrô the Town and by a Serpentine course thrô the Fields round about the City renders the Earth more fertile and of a very good soil insomuch that this is one of the most delightfull places we had hitherto seen The People confoâ—mable to the place they inhabit gave us great Satisfaction and weâ— very sociable and friendly to converse withall On the Ninth we set forward again and came at night to thâ— City Caswin which is a Town of no small repute It is situated in 3 degr 15 min. Northerly Latitude lying in the Countrey of Erâ— upon a level but dry and sandy ground having on the West
Hawk where the last after a long Encounter came off with Victory It began now to freez harder and harder as also to snow so that we were fain to stay 3 Day at Natens during which time we made good Cheer and spared not our Proviands which we had taken up by the way having now got sight of the Royal City Ispahan On the 17 th we left Natens and that Day had very rocky ground to drive over and by the way stop'd at a famous Carawansera called Dombi where we rested and refreshed our selvs and at night were fain to set down at Ruk a Village not far from Ispahan by reason of the snow remaining there also the most part of the next day CHAP. XXXI Arrival at Ispahan Their Reception with the Dutch Resident A Rélation of the Stability of Anthony Munster who was urged to imbrace Mahometanism his Death and Burial The Manner and Situation of the Dutch Lodge The Situation of Ispahan it 's Greatness Rivers running thrô the same The Aqueduct a mighty work of Schach Abas The Streets of Ispahan Maydan and Basar Fair Arches and Galleries The Sumptuous Mestzid of Schach Abas Dowlet or Schach-Chane the Royal Pallace The Divan-Chane or Court of Justice The Hiram-Chane or Palace of the Kings Concubines Allycarpi a Sanctuary or place of Refuge Carawanseras Taverns Cahwae-Chane Coffee-Houses Persian Saints and Philosophers Remal and Falkil two sorts of Sooth-sayers Their strange and ridiculous way of presaging The Kaysery or Gallerie of Shops HAving stay'd the most part of 2 Days at Ruk we set forward again and on the 19 we came to the long-wishd-for Ispahan Where being arrived I longed greedily to see my Countrey-men and went to my good Master Hadsi Byram to take my leav of him with a Thousand Thanks for his many Favours I desired him also to let som go with me to show me the Dutch Lodge which he with great willingness assented to and sent one of his Slaves with me Thus I went with Monsr Lewis Fabritius and Christian Brandt to the Lodge where for that time the Heer Frederic Bent of Enkhuysen was Chief Factor for the East India Company Monsr Kasenbroot of Rheenen Second or Under-Factor and Mr. Hubert Balde of Amsterdam Assistant When we came at the Gate we found a Black who was the Porter and spoke very good Nether-Dutch whom we desired to make our coming known which when he had don we were admitted in and very friendly received by the said Gentlemen who invited us to stay there which without much refusal we accepted with many Thanks They brought us forthwith into a very stately Room hung with Tapestry and furnished with Beds where we lay and had also Victuals and Firing provided us with what else was necessary Besides that they show'd us all imaginable Friendship and Divertisements taking great delight to hear our many Evasions and Deliverances from such hard Adventures I have elswhere advised how that being at Scamachi we had a Letter from one of our Company to which was set no name yet praesumed that it was from Anthony Munster the Jeweller The certainty thereof I understood here as also how he was brought to Ispahan Being com to Ispahan his Patron wrought very hard upon him to renounce Christianity and embrace the Mahometan Faith promising him upon his so doing to esteem him for his Son to giv him one of his Daughters in Marriage and a considerable Dowry beyond what was customary in those Lands All these the young Man declined saying that neither Promises nor Threats should ever praevail with him and therefore begg'd of him to rest contented His Patron finally marking that he was not flexible to espouse that Religion he began to pester and oppress him with all manner of Cruelty that he could invent insomuch that he became very Melancholic and at last lost his Sences in which condition he made his Escape into the Dutch Lodge whicâ— he took up for his Sanctuary and was kindly received by the Heeâ— Bent who held him so long in private till he had obtained his Freedom from the King Yet still continued this Frenzy with him till he died only som say that by certain Expressions he made about the Eternity of the Soul he was sensible of himself a little before his Death He was buried with a more than ordinary Pomp considering the meanness of his Person as to outward Estate but was highly set by for his perseverance and constancy in the Christian Faith His outward Qualities were very commendable being of a handsom stature fair Complexion and in every Way and Gesture very taking nor was he less to be praised for the internal Faculties of the Mind and Soul being very conscientious and just in all his dealings and withall pious His sweet Manners and Conversation was such that those who had the left converse with him were very sorry for his untimely or to speak more properly his early Death he not being fully 26 years of Age. The Dutch Lodge is a very fair Building not far from the Kings Palace having many fair Appartments Ware-houses and other Conveniences for reposing Merchandizes The many fair Rooms it has are furnished with all necessary Moveables beyond those of the Persians and far more costly Behind the House is a fair and spacious Garden having all sorts of Fruit-trees proper to that and other Climats as also a great Vineyard and an Arboret or Nursery for young Trees In the middle is to be seen a very noble Fountain dispersing it's water in various Figures in the Air to an admirable height surpassing most Water-works that I have seen in Europe The Hollanders live there very splendidly to uphold the Honour of the East India Company and go in the Persian Habit as also their Waiters and Attendants who are mostly Turks and Moors and because I was to go for Gameron they gave me a new Persian Suit which I was to take with me In the mean while I had work enough to satisfy their curiositie with frequent rehearsals of what had befallen me in my foregoing Voyages to the Indies and the Levant Ispahan called also Isphahan lies in 32 degr and 26 min. in the Countrey of Erak formerly called Parthia It is situated in a level and plain Landship environed on every side with Mountains at a considerable distance as the Mountains of Demawend on the South and South-west Masanderan and Jeylak Persan on the North-east This is the greatest City that I have seen in all Persia being with it's Suburbs and all 16 hours going in circuit about 48 English Miles It is but very weakly fortified the Walls being only of Earth and sloaping inward so that at Top they are not above 6 Foot thick the Trench or Ditch is also very narrow and in the Summer so shallow that the Children wade through it and somtimes it is wholly dry so that this City seems to â—ear no Enemy or forreign Invasion trusting to the potency and number of
commodities This Market consists in a certain number of Streets that are mostly arched over Hither repair Merchants of all Nations except Persians alone as Indians Tartars Turks Armenians Georgians as also English French Italians Hollanders and other Europeans Their way of Dealing is altogether for Money nothing by Barter Abas is the most plentifull coin in use among them valuing somthing less than an English Shilling and the Schach Abas which is half the value of the other the latter is also mostly called Choddabende They do not use much Gold but abundance of Copper which they call Pull 40 of which Pieces make an Abas The Europeans who com thither bring commonly Rix-dollars which the Persians once getting into their Hands will by no means part with them for they are diligently sought up by the Money-changers who bring them to the Serab-Chane or Mint and make a considerable profit of them CHAP. XXXII Taberik Kale the Treasurie of the Kingdom The Suburbs of Ispahan Tziulfa a place where the Armenian Christians have their Residence Tabrisabath Hassenabath Kebrabath so called from Kebber Persians that are still Pagans Tzarbag The Nature of the Persians Property of the Land Celebration of the Epiphany by the Armenian Christians ISpahan as it is a Royal City of so considerable a Monarchy and one of the first magnitude so it has a great concourse of Strangers from all Countreys in the World so that above all other Vocations the Inn-keepers generally thrive the best and by their great doings accommodate all Persons to their full Content The Carawanseras here are more sumptuous by far than either those of Caswin or any other City in Persia They are for the most part square som of them having 4 or 5 Galleries abov one another and those furnished with very commodious Appartments and for their better Security for Theeves are surrounded with high Stone Walls In Ispahan are also many fair Buildings besides what are already remembred amongst which the Taberik Kale or Fort Royal where the Kings Tresury is is one of the most eminent situated between the Palace and the Mestzid Mehedi which is both munited with strong Walls guarded continually with a sufficient Body of Soldiery and has plenty of Brass Cannon The same also serves for a Magazin or Repository of Armory There are also two fair Christian Monasteries the one for the Carmelites and the other for Augustin Monks These with many other fair Buildings too taedious to recount are within the Walls There are also many splendid Piles of Buildings without in the Suburbs which they call the Rhabath In the Suburbs are two eminent Wards to wit Tzulfa and Ciulfa mostly or altogether inhabited by the Armenian Christians who are reputed the ablest Merchants in Ispahan being transported hither by Schach Abas from their own Countrey and have since injoyed sundry Immunities and have a Governour of their own which they call Daruga who must bring up 200 Tumain yearly contribution to the King which is taken out of their Public Stock The private Dwelling-Houses of those Armenians do equal or rather surpass those within Walls for splendid structure On the one side of the River Senderut is another Place called Tabri or Abas-Sabath for that Schach Abas had allotted the People of Tabris this Part of the Town to dwell in Another Ward or Quarter of the Suburbs is called Hassenabath which is mostly inhabited by the Georgian Christians commonly called Trurtzi These as well as the Armenians are great Merchants being also highly in favour with the King not only for the vast Tribute which they pay but aswel for their Loyalty and good deportment and these are the only Christians who are tolerated to live within the Walls and have a Quarter of the Town allotted them near the Mestzid Mehedi althô they rather chuse to dwell in the Suburbs that they may be retire from the Calumny of the Mahometans and the better enjoy the Benefits of a Christian Society The Kebrabath is a District of the Suburbs lying on the West side of the City so called from the Kebbers which are a sort of ancient Persian Pagans who following the old opinion of the Persians when they were yet Heathens will not embrace Mahometanism These differ from the rest in Habit as well as in Customs and Religion wearing loose Drawers with a long Coat only fastned at the Collar open at the shoulders Their Hair they let grow all over their Head and Face The Women are attired as the Men only with this difference that they wear a long Silk or Cotton Scarf which trails on the Ground The Language they speak is still the ancient Lingua Persica for they are very curious in preserving their ancient Tongue without any Innovation insomuch that the Persians who speak the modern Language cannot understand them as the English cannot understand the old Brittish or Welsh yet these can both understand and speak the present Persian Tongue They retain also the Ancient Characters and adore the Sun and the Elements for Deïties performing Monethly Sacrifices Besides the veneration they have for the Sun they do worship to the Starrs but have little or no Judgement in the course of the same Snakes and all other venemous Animals they hold for unclean so that whosoever touches any of those whether voluntarily or by accident must not enter into their Temples till he be purified Their Dead they do not burn as most Pagans do but when any Person dies whether it be an Infant or one com to full growth and Maturity they wash the Body very clean and carry it to a Place far distant from any Houses and there set it upright against a Post where they wait till the Ravens com and pick out the one Eie which if it be the right Eie they are of opinion that the Soul of the Departed is in Paradise and therefore interr him very decently but if the Bird pull out his left Eie first then they hold it for a sure Token that he is damned and for his wicked Life to suffer perpetual Torments and therefore esteem him not worthy of such solemn Exequies but cast him head-long into a deep Pit Without the City of Ispahan are many fair Gardens and Summer-houses belonging to the King and divers great Personages The most eminent of all these is the Tzarbag not far from the great Bridge being 4 square and about 2 English Miles in circuit This as was said before is watered with an Aquaeduct that is conveyed under Ground by several small leaden Pipes from the Main and here and there vented by Fountains which force the Water somtimes 36 or 40 foot high On each corner stands a noble Summer House of an admirable rare Fabric The Garden it's self has the most and greatest varieties of Fruit-Trees and Vegetables that ever I have seen althô it was then Winter when I was there And indeed the Persians are great Lovers of Planting Gardening and all manner of Tillage so that there is hardly
me from whence I came I told them from Surwan Scamachy but that being a place they had never heard of in their lives asked me further if that were as far as Ispahan I told them it was more than twice as far at which they greatly wondred thinking that I must needs com from the utmost bounds of the World these being a poor ignorant People and never travail farther than their Market Town which is a little Grange in the Valley and never heard tell of any Countrey than their own in short they would have had me to stay longer with them but my Time was too precious to spend in answering all they would have asked me At night we came to the City Laar where we took up our Resting place in the Dutch Lodge where we found very good Convenience and only an old Man and a Woman to look to the House and assist the Caravans who were set there by the Company Here I got the Chests and Cases repaired that were broken and endamaged by the often falling of the Camels thrô the rocky way Laar or Lar is a pretty big Town but has no Walls to resist or endure a strong siege save only such as are made of Bricks that are dry'd in the Sun but is reasonably strong in respect of its Scituation as well as for the Fort or Castle which is built upon a Hill on the North-side the Walls thereof are of solid stone and the Fort it self so seated that it can command the whole Town having one narrow Passage to enter it which is very steep it is supplyed with several pieces of great Ordnance which the King sent hither from Ormus when by the help of the English he took that City in About Laar grow abundance of Date-trees but no Wine and by reason that they have no Commerce or Traffic abroad but poor must supply themselvs with Water which as well as the Air here about is very unwholsom insomuch that many times Strangers who are to make use of it for want of Wine fall sick and are tormented with a small Worm but long which breeds between the Skin and the Flesh and cannot be taken out without great pain They show'd me one that was above 5 Foot long and not so thick as an ordinary Goos-quill The Inhabitants of Laar are very free and sociable to converse withall and great Lovers of Sciences and Learning Not far from the Castle is a certain Rock out of which issues a very precious Balsem called by the Persians Mummay Kobas This Balsem or Oil is gathered only in the Moneth of June about which time it runs stillatim or drop by drop out at a Vein The said Rock from whence it coms is continually guarded with a strict Watch by Order of the King and none is suffered to touch it upon pain of Death This Oil is reckoned and well known by experience to be the greatest Antidot against Poyson in the World althô never so strong and is therefore held by the King as an inestimable Tresure and never suffered to be exported out of his Dominions The King also willing to show any of his Subordinat Princes and Deputies an extraordinary and high Favour always sends them a few drops thereof to make it the greater in esteem and value and with one injoyns them not to send it out of the Kingdom upon pain of his displesure Without Laar are erected several Pillars for Monuments of the Execution of several Robbers who had made the high Ways unfree to Travel Half of their Bodies are set up on these Pillars and the other half buried in the Ground being cut asunder whilst they are still alive Having tarried here 3 Nights and 2 Days we set forward on the 22 and had very bad and rocky way We saw here great Flocks of wild Swine whereof our Company shot 2 with their Hand-guns but durst not fetch them for fear of the Persians that threatned to leav us if we did for they loath them more than Toads We also shot several Eagles which notwithstanding they prey upon the Pigs the Persians fed heartily upon them This day we travailed 7 Dutch Miles which we thought more than a diëta rationabilis or an ordinary Stage in regard of the badness of Way and Weather and at night had a good Carawansera On the 23 we broke up and passed by a fair Town called Pharate which we left on the right hand The said Town was pleasantly seated in the middest of a Grove of Date-Orange-and Lemmon Trees By the way we met with a Party of Robbers who furiously set upon us but finding themselves too weak betook themselvs to flight leaving 7 Dead behind them We also lost 2 Men of our Company that were outright killed in this Bickering and had six wounded The Dead we buried near the Way and bound up the wounded At night we came to a small Village called Sarap where we took up our nights rest having that day advanced 6 Miles On the 24 we set forward again and at night came to a great Village which we took up for our Stage having a fair and spacious Carawansera in it We had no sooner disburthened the Camels but had 50 or 60 Women who came and proffered us Milk to sell and were so importunat and troublesom that we could not get rid of 'em till we set the Doggs upon them These went all with their Face uncovered which I had not seen any Honest Women in all Persia do except in one Village between Scamachy and Ispahan This day we had furthered our Journey by 7 Miles On the 25 we had a great and wearisom Mountain to travail over at the Foot whereof was a River which we were forced to wade thrô by reason that the stone-bridge which had formerly lain over it was broken down After we had travailed 5 Dutch Miles we took up ou◠nights rest in a Carawansera But we could here get no manner of Refreshment the Countrey round about being dry and barren producing nothing but Date-trees that we could see On the 26 towards night we came to a Grange of Fisher-men of whom we bought a few for our use We were no sooner set down but came Monsr Kasenbroot with his Slaves riding into the Town being sent for from Ispahan to Suratte The night being very still we could easily hear the rushing of the main Ocean That day we had travailed 7 Miles On the 27 we went onwards and about Noon came to a Carawansera which lay close to the shore and could see Ships a sailing which filled me with a more than ordinary Joy not having seen such a comfortable sight in a long time Hence we saw Gammeron and could distinctly discern the English and Dutch Flaggs fly abroad that were planted upon the Lodges However we thought good to tarry there that night having only advanced 4 Dutch Miles that we might enter Gammeron the fore part of the Day On the 28 for the
Vessel â—w mean soever it be is bound to do or in case of refusal to â—rfeit Ship and Carga Siam although it have abundance of Towns yet there are but 5 â—at are walled in all the Kingdom whereof Iudia is the strongâ— being about 3 Dutch miles in circuit The walls are considerably strong with round Bulwarks after the old way but â—ter its manner very Stately and magnificent Within the Toâ— are some Thousands of Temples Cloysters and gilded Turreâ— which together do make a pompous show The streets of tâ— City are very long and spatious the Town it self surrounded wâ— a River about 2 Musquet-shot in breadth and divides it self into streams at that place where the King has his Court and Râ—dence The Royal Palace is very magnificent and Costly stronâ— walled about and fortified within also are very stately and noâ— Appartments a Fabric which for Workmanship and Riches sâ— passes all that ever I have seen in India and certainly for â— Power and Grandour of the Prince Splendour of the Palaâ— immense Wealth of the Inhabitants Fertility of the Countrâ— and Temperateness of the Climate it is second to no place in â—dia if China may be excluded The Soil is very good and the Land fertile producing yeaâ— a vast increase of Rice and other Corn It is also rich of Caâ— as Kine Hoggs Buffels Elks Hares and Coneys incrediâ— Flocks of Deer which are more hunted for their Hides than Oâ— cases they reckoning That one of the Staple commodities â— export many Thousands yearly to Iapon and other places of Tâ—fic so that the main Trading of the Company there to Iaâ— consists in that Merchandise Wild-beasts are also here in gâ— abundance as Elephants Rhinocerots Leopards Tygres the like as also all kinds of Fowl both great and small thâ— have seen in Europe Swans and Nightingales onely excepted whâ— I dare not be positive whether there be any or not Nor are Rivers as also the Sea without good store of Fish and that many kinds The Sea-shore lies thick with Oisters and Lobsâ— which are as delicate as they are plentifull They use the Fish Trade also as in other places and make great profit especially a kind of Scate that they take chiefly for the Skin which thâ— of Iapon hold in great esteem paying sometimes at the rate 50 or 60 Ducats for one Skin if it be choice and good yet sucâ— the difference that I have seen a hundred Pieces of Eight paid â— single Skin whilst it has been known that a whole hundred woâ— not yield 4. Rix-dollars These Skins they first dry and â— â—eat care pack them up and so export them There are also in â—â—is River many Crocodiles which the Siamers call Cayman and â—e them for Physic There are also many venemous Creatures as â—erpents Adders Scorpions and Snakes It exuberates besides â—e several Products already mentioned in Sugar Oil Kitchinâ—d Medicinal herbs and various kinds of Fruit and in a word â—am is so well provided by nature of it self that the Inhabitants may â—pply themselves with what is necessary for human Life and Reâ—eation without the means of exotic Commerce and importaâ—on of forreign Commodities CHAP. IV. â—he Nature and Way of living of the Siamers Their several Trades and Profession Travail of their Merchants Government and Politie The great State of the Emperour and Magnificency of his Throne his Cavalcade and manner of shewing himself to his People The Riches of his Vessels the Elephants served in Gold and Silver The Wars about the white Elephant against Ava and Pegu. SIam as I said before is very populous and the Inhabitants generally of a good and free disposition They Negotiate â—trongly in every kind of Merchandise whereof they can make a proâ—t and that more especially within Land They are great incouragers of Art and Artists especially the Meâ—hanicks and such as they cannot well want as House-and Ship-Carpenters Masons Smiths Braziers Founders Turners Plummers Pewterers Painters Carvers Gold-Smiths Fullers â—awiers Joyners Weevers and an infinit number of Jewellers â—nd Lapidaries Nor are they without their Physicians Chirurâ—eons and Lawiers after their own manner Here are also Pedâ—rs by Thousands that travail from Town to Town like such â—s follow the Fairs in Europe these have no fast dwelling but â—re in motion the whole year round and sleep always in the booths which they erect wheresoever they come Fishing and Husbandry â—re well promoted for every man be he never so mean if he have a fast Residence has his Lands either less or more which are cultivated with all imaginable diligence as appears by the yearly Product of Grain which not only supplies themselves but is also exported into other Countreys as well on the main Continent as the adjacent Islands And so cheap is all manner of necessary Provision and sustenance that Labourers and common Slaves wiâ— work any servile work for 3 d a Day Every City has a Praetor or Deputy who derives his power from the King and with a Council of Assistance is to determinâ— of all Matters and Affairs as well Civil as Criminal The same Praetor or Vice-roy has also charge over the Imperial Revenues Tolls and Customs to see that they be payd without defrauding of the King and that the Sub-commissioners of the said Dutieâ— do not exact upon Forreigners that are not acquainted with thâ— Rates imposed upon their Goods This Officer as also everâ— Officer of State is only to continue three years in one place anâ— at the expiration of that term is either removed to a place of greâ—ter Trust and Eminency or has his Discharge sent him The Suits at Law are presently brought to an end and Sentence passâ— according to equity without regard to the Degree and Quality the Parties the Client first going to a Notary and has his caâ— fairly stated which then is brought to an Advocate who is â— discuss and comment it before the Praetor as in most places â— Europe with this difference only that the Advocate or Attorneâ— has the power to continue or give over the Suit as he thinks fâ— which is ordained to prevent taedious Appeals and perpetuaâ— clamours at Court Criminal Affairs are punished severely enough especially Treason and Murther nor do they dispence with anâ— places of Refuge or Sanctuary for the Perpetratours of sucâ— enormous Crimes There is no Potentate in the East may paralel this Emperour foâ— Magnificence and Pomp. He never sets his foot upon the Earth buâ— is carried on a Throne of Gold from place to place and usuallâ— appears once a day before his Peers and Grandees which alwayâ— attend the Court these show him all imaginable Reverence anâ— ascribe him such honour as accrews to no Mortal When any desire to speak with him so soon as he gets admission presents himselâ— upon his knees his hands folded and his countenance cast to the Ground then bowing of his body and kissing the Earth he begins his Harangue which is
ran her Bow-spreet through our main Sail which was with such force that he rent our sail and broke his Spreet-sail yard insomuch that we were both fain to put into Ter Schelling to repair and fit our selves out again On the 20 being clear we set sail the second time and had a fresh gale at South and by West which held favourably so long till we arrived at Riga but when we entred the Baltic Sea it blew so hard that our Mizzen sail was all rent and unfit for use whereupon the Master set me to work to repair the defects On the 1 st of October we got the Boldera which is the Haven or River of Riga where we dropt Anchor Immediately upon our arrival came the Searchers to visit the Ship and amongst other Goods found a Parcel of contra-band Wares and took it ashoar with them but the Master told them that it was thrown in by chance and pray'd them to be so kind as to leave it aboard which after he had daubed them a litle in the fist they did The next day being under sail we were becalm'd and fain to cast anchor half way up the River On the 3 ditto we came up to the Kay of Riga where being arrived the Master refused to pay me the moneys he agreed with me for to make up his sail which was 10 Rix-dollars but on the contrary gave me very ill Language and told me if I had any pretence upon him the Law was open and Judges appointed for the decision of such controversies This great ingratitude made me to take a course I never intended which was to send him summons to appear in the Town hall where upon a second citation he made his appearence and was condemned to pay the money in presence of the Court. Riga is an eminent Emporium lying within the Prinsdom of Lithvania and seated in a Champain land on the north-east side of the great River Duna It is fortified with Walls Bulwarks and Ditches or Motes populous and full of Trade being as it were the Magazin to supply the whole Countrey above with all kinds of Wares and Commodities and is also a great Thorow-fare By Winter they receive Goods over Land in Sledges and Waggons from Moscovia which is transmitted abroad and by Summer from England Germany Holland and other Places by Shipping which are sent that way again with the Moscovian Waggons and Sledges The Countrey about Riga affoards good plenty of all kinds of Provision as Kine Sheep Goats besides 3 sorts of Deer the Sea and Rivers affoard good store of Fish and the Boors besides their diligence in breeding up of Cattel supply other Countreys with Corn of all sorts and Lactuaries so that it is cheap living at or near Riga This City was formerly within the Jurisdiction of the Kings of Poland but was taken in by Gustavus Adolphus King of Sweden upon the 16 of September 1621 after a long and hard Siege and is at this day in subjection to that Crown On the 10 ditto we left Riga and with our compleat Company and Baggage imployed 30 Waggons to bring us to Pletsko and took up our first nights Lodging at Niew-meulen being a Village where all the Waggons and Horses are set over a River with great Logs of Timber fastned together that float above the Water On the 11 we proceeded again on our Journey and broke two of our Waggon-wheels which the Waggoners repaired and so we proceeded on our Journey At night we came into an Inn which was so meanly provided for Bedding that we were fain to lay all night in the Waggons The next day we travelled through a great Wood in the middest whereof was a broad Marsh that cost us some Hours to go over When we were through the Wood we passed through several little Villages the Inhabitants whereof were a miserable silly People hardly able to draw one leg after the other The Women have only an old Rag like a Plad thrown about their bodies hardly sufficient to hide their nakedness except a litle below their ears to let the World know they have hair as well as other People so that they look like so many Gypsies newly come from the famous Peak of Darby As for their Houses they are but one degree beneath a Hog-sty and those as full of Utensils as a Knave is full of Honesty All that ever I could see was an earthen Pan or two and those so clean that I had rather fast a week than eat any thing that has come out of them Great plenty of Cattel they have and such as have three times as many feet as they themselves As for Beds they have none but such as their Oxen ly upon for when they have stuffed their Gutts they ly down upon the floor one after another as the Nap takes them Their Diet is suitable to all things else they have for although they might have Venison for knocking on the Head the Creature may live till Dooms-day before they will take the pains to lift a hand to kill it unless it be a louse which sometimes they crush to death for change of Diet. As for their Bread it is not much unlike our New-castle Coal for colour but how it is of Tast I know no more than the Man in the Moon for neither my Appetite nor Curiosity could move me to it Cabbage they have in great abundance which is of a Tast like Sorrel but close and white like ours That and Cucumbers are the main ingredients whereof these People seem to be compounded but more especially the latter for Cucumber attends them from the Womb to the Tomb being held in perpetual Slavery by their Lords They are conformable to no Laws unless what they are forced to observe by a strict aw which their Lords impose upon them and injoyn them to They are by nature obtuse and dull inclined to Necromancy and Sorcery but in the performance of an Exorcism so palpably ridiculous that I wonder how they have obtained that repute they have in the World among those who ought to be wiser than to beleeve such groundless Fictions They have no manner of Schools wherein to educate their Children that ever I could see or hear of neither Churches or other Houses for Religious use so that they are brought up in the greatest Blindness and obscurity that may be Some of them 't is true will needs be called Christians but those are they that have travelled as far as Riga which they think is the Head of the World yet are those so stupid as a Lifeland Gentleman told me that they have learn'd Catechism enough if they can but know the Church from a Dwelling house or to pull of their Caps when they see a man with a shoulder knot pass by Yet they are flexible enough to Idolatry by Nature and withall superstitious In our going through the Woods we saw a great Troop of them busy about Conjuring
of a Tree which they had tied with a Garland of twigs creeping round about it and making a great Howling but so soon as they saw us took them to their Heels and away By the Forms and Tenures of the Curses and Conjuration they seem to be sensible of a Future state and sometimes by I know not what Tokens presage Death and the Soul of any that has been a disturber of the Public Quiet they deliver up to the Devil They have a formal Oath that they take upon divers Occasions which is thus The Party cuts up a Turf or Sod of Earth this he sets upon his Head and takes his stick into his Hand Wishing if such or such a Matter be not so and so that They with their Cattel may be consumed with Fire They have besides this other superstitious Customes to which they are so strongly inclined by nature that they will not be better civilized or if they happen to show themselves willing and learn a litle Urbanity it must be only for lucres sake and they promised something to boot to remember it which if you forget to perform they will forget to observe your Document In short they are but one remove from Bruits and so ignorant that the most part of them thinks there is no other Land in the World besides their own Two days long we went through the Woods and found it so soft and Marshy that we could hardly bring our Waggons through in safety On the 14 we arrived at VVolmar where we met many Horses Waggons and Boors going to market with Corn and other Things One of our Company growing weary of his Journey thought to go away in this Throng but the Captain being informed of his Design watched him so narrowly that he could not meet with an Opportunity to march off VVolmar is a litle but a well-fortified Town munited with a stone-Wall and a deep Ditch but without Water The Market in regard of the Poverty of the Countrey is very considerable and is held twice a week This City as appears yet by the Ruins of it has been formerly much greater than it is at this day but with all the Countrey round about has been often depopulated by the Polish and Russian Armies It is about 18 leagues from Riga On the 15 by break of Day we set forward on our Journey passing through a Champaign Countrey and many small Towns and Hamlets By the way we observed that the Boors had burn't up great Woods and converted them into Pasturage and arable Ground Afterwards we went through a large Wilderness where we could not see the Sun by reason of the density of the Trees yet the way was full of Mires and plashy About 7 in the Evening we came to our stage where we were to stay over night The next morning we broke our fast yoked the Horses and set forward passing over a huge River which had only a Bridge there where we were to pass over and no where else within 20 leagues above or below but the Bridge being old and seemingly rotten we durst not go over all together but one by one When we were got over Evening came on and the Sky began to grow gloomy after which followed a very great Tempest that the River swell'd over the Banks and overflow'd all the flat Lands which we seeing so suddenly happen left the common Road for that our Land Pilot told us that the High way was subject to such Floods with an extraordinary Inundation After two Hours Storming the Weather began to clear and the Pilot assured us we were not far from the Town where we were to take our nights rest and so it happened for just as he was speaking of it we saw Light through the Trees which mightily revived us for we were extreme cold and weary The next morning we set forward for Pitsiora and had very good Weather but came short of the Town that night insomuch that we were fain to ly all night in the Woods where we gathered all the Windfalls we could find and laid them on a heap and with dry Sticks made a huge Fire which served not only to warm our selves at but likewise to affright the Bears and Wolves away which are very bold and cruel in these Parts as also the Muskettos which swarm here by Millions and annoy both Man and Beast after an incredible rate CHAP. II. Arrival at Pitsiora and at Pletskow A strange Passage of a hungry Bear The spindle-bone or shank of a Giant The Pleasant Prospects and delightsome Landships of Moscovia Arrival at Novogorod The Antiquity and former Glory of that City how taken by the Moscovian and Fortified by the Swede Their Departure from Novogorod Rescounter with a Company of Robbers and Arrival at Colomna Great abundance of Wolves Coldness of the Climat ON the 30 th of October 1678 we arrived at Pitsiora which lies on the Confines of Russia and under the Protection of that Emperour It is seated in a fair and pleasant Countrey affoarding all things necessary to the sustenance of human Bodies 'T is true Pitsiora is no more than a Village yet for wealthy Inhabitants Commerce abroad and Advancement of Manufacture surpasses any City in all that part of the Countrey In passing through the Town we saw many rich Mercers and Drapers Shops the Markets stored with all sorts of Provision as Corn Butter Cheese and Fruits with a very noble Butchery or Flesh-shambles and the streets crouding with People from all Parts So soon as we were arrived there came several Jewelers who asked if we had any Pearls or other Jewels to sell or barter Having refreshed ourselves at Pitsiora we left the Town the next day about 10 in the Morning and about noon entred a large Wood where we found great store of Hurtles or Bilberies that were far greater and better tasted then any I have known else where which moved me to fall a plucking of them but going a litle way into the Wood and making a rushing through the Thickets up starts a huge Bear which so affrighted me that I had hardly power to run from him however it seem'd that he was as fearfull of me as I of him for when I ran East he ran West and glad I was to see his Bear-ship turn tails with me This was the only Bear that ever I had seen in Lifeland or all the way from Riga hither but the Boors often warned us to take care of our selves saying that sometimes both Men and Cattel are devoured with those cruel and ravenous Beasts On that Evening we arrived at Pletskou where we had Lodgings and all necessaries provided us and on the 22 payd our Waggoners who returned for Riga Pletskou is a large City a great part thereof is surrounded with a wall the rest with huge Balks like Pallizados and computed about 8 English miles in compass Their Houses are made sleightly of Trees and pieces of Timber let in with joynts without any Gentility
and some Books VVith the money he built there a Chappel where he lies interred and as they tell us his Body is yet to be seen fresh and undecay'd by which many miracles have been done but none can see him or them but such as are of their own Faith And so much of a floating Mil-stone In the year 1611 this City was besieged and taken in by I. de la Gardie the Swedish General and in the year 1613 redelivered to the Czar of Moscovy upon Articles of Peace Upon the 8 of November we left Novogorod having had time enough to view every Remarkable that was worthy of sight and about 2 a clock in the afternoon arrived at a village called Bruynitz where we stay'd and took up our Lodging for that night The next Morning we took fresh Horses but the snow was so melted with the Sun that we were fain to take Waggons and leave the Sledges but the way was so miry that we had much ado to get the Horses through for the Earth there is of a tough clay About 8 in the Evening we came to Miedna which is a poor Village and could hardly affoard us Hous-room for that night On the 10 th we had bad travailing way being for the most part marshy and full of Boggs with Planks and trees laid over to make them passable which totered and shaked so that our Waggons were often out of order but were as often mended by the Pesants who by continual use are very expert at it By the way we saw abundance of Squirrels and Foxes which run together in Troups yet so shy that we could not come within musquet-shot of them That night we got Gankrezza a handsom little Village where we refreshed and supplied our selves with necessaries for our Journey The next day being the 11 th of Novemb. we set forward on our Journey and travelling thro the Woods we were surprized with a Party of High-way men well mounted and masked who demanded what we were We replied that we were Dutch and servants to the Emperour They hearing that were in a doubt whether they should plunder us or not but at last rode off and bad us adieu It was our opinion that they were affraid that our Company was stronger and that the rest followed us for they were better arm'd and mounted than we besides the Waggons we had to take care of or otherwise in all probability they would not have neglected such a fair booty that being as we were told by the Waggoners one of the most dangerous places in all the Countrey That night we took our rest at Iazel-Bitza being very bad and snowy weather On the 12 ditto we took in fresh Horses and put our Baggage and Moveables into Sledges because of the snow passing through thick Woods and a vast Wilderness before we came at Gamzymnagoru where we were to take up our Lodging On the thirteenth we changed Horses and set forward on our Journey passing first through a thick Wood and afterwards came into champian Land which was dry level and tilled as far as we could see By the way we saw many small Villages but at night came into Colomna which was the fairest and best Village I had hitherto seen in Moscovia the Inhabitants are reputed wealthy and live in very good fashion We came pretty early to our Stage having had very good way and reasonable fair weather so that we had time enough to take a view of the Town Our Pristaf or Guid who spoke good Nether Dutch went with us to show what was worthy of remark and very courteously resolved us in any thing we desired to be satisfied about On the 14 th we went through a great Wood where we saw abundance of Wolves playing together which when we would have taken aim to shoot with our Long Guns they ran inward and took the Wood. Our Pristaf told me that they knew us to have Fire-locks about us that being the only safeguard to travel with without which they will not fear to assail Horse and Man and sometime lay sculking in the way side where of a sudden they run out and prey upon Passengers Towards the Evening it began to freez hard that we were fain to step out of the Hurdles and walk afoot On the 16 th we got VVaizna and from thence departed for Gam-VVoldoka where we tarried 4 days to rest our selves In the mean while it froze very hard and I with another of our Company went out to ride upon Scates upon which an infinit number of Men Women and Children yea the Priests themselves came running out to see us CHAP. III. A Quarrel with the Russians Eight Dutch Merchants murthered in a Wood. Arrival at Tweer Another Rescountre with a Party of Robbers Money sent from Moskow Pursuit of their Journey They enter Moscou Their good Reception The great Bear-Garden Wolf and Bear-baiting Death of the Empress and the pompous Exequies ON the 22 th after we had sufficiently taken breath we set forth having fresh Horses provided us and so entred a great Wood where we saw great swarms of Squirrels fly from Tree to Tree as also abundance of Pheasants and Partridges which the Peasants take and sell for a mean price About the Evening we came to VVuidra Pusk where we remained that night but could not get any Lodging fit to entertain us either for Hous-room or Victuals this being yet a poorer Village than that of Miedna At this place happened a Quarrel between one of our Company and a Russ the first having taken the others Ax for that the Russ had stole som Tobacco from him which being made known to the Company they struck and misused the poor Russ after an unsufferable manner which Capt. Butler resented very ill not willing to give the Russians any disgust But above all the people in the World there are none that covet Tobacco so much as they do and will be sure to steal it if they cannot otherwise come by it although they were sure to loose their Heads for it On the 23 by break of Day we set out and entred another thick Wood. Here they showd us som Graves where they told us 8 Dutch Merchants were buried who had been murthered by Robbers When we were got thro the Wood we went over a fair Pasture-ground and saw divers Boors Houses by the Way-side In the Evening we arrived at Torstock which we found to be but a small yet well-built City although it appeared greater from the Number of Towers which we saw when at a distance having above 30 Churches and Chappels within the Walls Here we unloaded our Sledges and left them putting our Goods aboard some small Shipping that was provided for us and sayled down the River to Troetzka Miedna where we took in som necessary Provisions That night pretty late we came to Tweer which is Seated upon the River VVolga which River with many windings and turnings runs to seek the Caspian
amongst them On the first of Iuly we sailed by two Islands to wit Turig and Mastof and ran the ship aground where we lost another Anchor Towards the Evening we came before Makrity On the 2 d we set Sail and came before Sabaksar where some of our Ships-company went ashoar and took our Pasport and Credentials to show the VVaywode or Governour who gave us a supply of Men and necessaries to help us forward to Astrachan Sabaksar is one of the neatest Towns I had hitherto seen since we left Moscou being well built fortified and since the uproar of the Casaks the Garrison better supplied with men than before Having dispatched here we weighed anchor and on the 3 of ditto gain'd the Island Cosin where we were fast again but without much difficulty got clear We sailed that day past Sundir a handsome litle Town and dropp'd anchor before Cokschaga loosing thence we were fain to cast out our Fore-anchor to hale over a Foord which was 10 Dutch leagues long and found work enough to bring the Vessel over however after much pains taken we gaind the Deep without any damage to the Ship On the 4 we came past the Shallow places and before VVolofka were fast again where we were fain to cast anchor and wind our selves off At night we lay before Swiatkhi which is a fortify'd Town having many fair Churches and Monasteries within walls On the 5 we weighed anchor and set Sail having a brisk Gale which in 3 hours time or less brought us before the River Casanka from which River the City and Kingdom of Casan have their name here we came to anchor where some small Shipping belonging to that place aiming to enter the River ran against our Bow and some fell overboard Here about is a very fair Countrey and as fertile as any that ever I have seen in all my Life It is mostly low arable and medow ground overflown once a year upon the swelling of the River VVolga On the Banks of this said River are variety of Fruit trees of many kinds which grow in whole Groves together and wild for a hundred Dutch Leagues as Hasle-nuts Cherries 3 or 4 several sorts Black White and Red Currans c. That part of Casan which lies most within Land formerly belonged to the Tartars but the Inhabitants speake the Russian Language which was first brought in when the Countrey was conquered by the Russes as shall be hereafter said They do not convert any man to slavery nor make that their Traffic as do the Nagay the Crim-Calmuc-and Dagestan-Tartars for if they had they might have sold me when with other two of our Ships-company I was under their Hands and that above 3 leagues within Land where on the contrary we found them civil after their Manner for they gave us Bread and Milk to eat On the 6 th our Shallop was sent up to Casan to acquaint the Deputy with our Arrival On the 8 th the Deputy of Casan together with the Metropolitan came aboard where they seemed to receive great satisfaction having never seen the like before The Common people came likewise flocking in great multitudes to see a floating Castle and notwithstanding all the aw of the Deputy and Provincial we had much ado to keep them off for they strove to come aboard Casan is a great City and reasonably strong but it's Walls and Towers of Wood as almost all the Russian Towns are The Cittadel is walled with stone and well provided of Ammunition and Men. The Town is situated upon a Hill but in a Champan Countrey The Cittadel is encompassed with the Casanka which renders the Water within inexhaustible in time of Siege The Traffic of this Place is very considerable regarding the Countrey it lies in It is frequented by the Crim-Tartars who bring thither all manner of Merchandise their Land affoards and not only the vendible Products of the Earth and Cattle but as orderly their own Children which they sell at a low rate a Boy or a Girl of 16 years of age for the value of 20 Crowns a piece The City Casan is equally inhabited by Russians and Tartars and governed by a Deputy as we have already said but the Cittadel kept solely by Russes where no Tartar is to come upon pain of Death There is besides the Deputy who is only as President and supreme in Civil Matters an extraordinary VVaywode who is always as Superintendant in time of War having the sole Direction of Martial Affairs The Countrey of Casan which has been formerly a Kingdom is of a very wide extent bounded on the North with Syberia on the East with Nagaya and on the South with the River VVolga This Countrey was formerly very populous and able to bring a great Army to field as in recorded of their famous Expeditions against the Russes but since depopulated made wast and subdued by Basilius Ivanowitz who overcame these Casan-Tartars in a very bloody Battail and after that so notable a Conquest set a Vice-Roy This Vice-Roy although a Casan-Tartar was always more loyal to the Czar than favourable to his own Countreymen which occasioned great murmurings and jealousy among the Casaneers that at last they called in the Crim-Tartars for their assistance who were Mahometans These made not much delay but on a sudden raised a mighty Army which incorporating with the Rebells gave the Vice-Roy battail and gain'd the Field and pursuing the success of the day invaded the Emperours Territories The Czaar in the mean while being informed by Express that the Hostility kept the Field had put the Forces under Conduct of the Vice-Roy to flight and that they approached with a great Body he levied as great an Army as he could do with so short warning and ingaged with the Tartars in open Field But the Hostility increasing more and more what with their own Nation and what with the Malecontents within the Russian Jurisdiction were almost 15 to 3 and after a short but very hot Battel the Emperour was fain to flee and betake himself to Novogorod The Tartars seeing themselves Masters of the Field marched forward to Moscou which they attacqued took in and plundered However the Cittadel Cremelena held stoutly forth all the time without making Proposals or Articles upon which they would seem willing to surrender it till at last finding themselves not in a capacity to hold forth they gave it over upon very honourable Conditions as to themselves but disadvantageous Terms for the great Duke himself and the City of Moscou Shamefull was this Loss to the Emperour and no less ground of Honour for the Victory to the Hostility who now as it were in a moment had regained all their Freedoms which from time to time before they had lost Right loath was the Czar to give his assent to the Conclusions of the Treaty but was at last compelled to sign it with his own hand partly for that his Bojars and Council pressed him to it and partly upon
take a Journey for Scamachy there to repair his Houses which were thrown down with an Earth-quake in the year 1667. On the first of September we were ready and set forward with a Caravan of 1800 Horses and a great number of Camels Dromedaries Asses and other Beasts of Carriage having in Company several Thousands of Men. The first day we passed over three Rivers to wit Kurgani Kostar and Sambur whereof the second is the greatest running thrô the Mountains of Elbur This River divides it self into 5 branches or arms broad but shallow and runs over a stony Ground The next day we travailed 8 Dutch miles further and came to Koctep a large village where we took our rest for that night By the way we saw a goodly Tomb erected to the memory of a Persian Saint The Inhabitants of this Town and the Countrey about it are called Padar in their Language They are much addicted to stealth and Robbery so that we were fain to keep a narrow watch over them the time we lay in the Town which was not above 8 hours Their Houses are but little built square and covered on the Top with Earth not exceeding 6 or 7 foot high above ground but are as deep below as they are high On the 3 of the same moneth we set forward and travailed through many great villages amongst which was a very fair one called Nisabath or Naysabath which I guess lies about 41 degr and a quart It is seated in a very pleasant Countrey of Old Media now called Surwan or Schirwan This is the Place where som time agon the Holsteyn Ambassadours suffered Shipwrack At night we set down at Muskar being a Town without Walls or any other Fortification but seems to have bin in times past a place of trust as well from its Situation as the Ruins of the Walls and Bulwarks which yet appear By the way we saw abundance of Robbers in the Woods but they knowing us to be too strong would not adventure the Attempt On the 4 we broke up and that day came to Scabaran a little City where the whitest and best Rice in all Persia is brought to market and grows in the Countrey round about It is also in such plenty that the Hundred weight is sold for 13 Ochbas being about 4 Shil 2 Pence Sterl or a halfpenny per Pound The Walls of this City are now demolished so that it is no more than an open village The only Remarkable I found here was the Ruins of the Ovens wherein they averr Alexander the Great had Bread baked for his Army On the 5 th we came to the mountain Par or Barmach which lies close to the Sea and is very famous for it's many veins of Naphte The word Barmach is an Appellativ word and betokens in their Language a Finger so called from it's similitude to a Finger pointing out Above at Top it is very cold and has snow on the North side all the year long at top there grows som grass but not much and that all hung with Iceicles On this Hill appear the Ruins of som Watch-Towers and below have been several Fortlets to check the Tartars and secure the Medians from the Invasion of the Scythian Robbers Amidst those Ruins is a huge deep Pit digged and laid in with stone Naphta otherwise called Petroleum or Petrelaeum is an Oil coming naturally out of the veins of the Rock which veins do run thro the whole stones as in Marble There are 40 Pits digged as Receptacles to hold the said Oil being convey'd thither by several Pipes or Conduits But there are three of those whence it naturally flows or springs where you may see it buble up like boiling pitch Of this Oil there be two sorts the one tending to a brown or black which has a very strong smell but the other which is white is of a lovely smell when fresh and held in far more esteem than the other On the 6 dito we set forward again and went over very high Hills coming at night to Bachal a village seated in a low but fruitfull Valley Here grows much Rice and that very good it being a marshy Ground where that Grain likes best Barley also grows there in good plenty The Inhabitants have an excellent way of making Cakes the main stuff thereof being Honey and Oil whereof for the rareness and novelties sake my Master bought certain to use on our Journey On the 7 dito we left Bachal and after a good Days Journey came into Cothany which is a very pleasant Place and here we took up our Lodging This Village lies in a low Valley which is full of Woods of Hasles and other small Trees in which Woods are the greatest plenty of Hares that ever I have seen in all my Life On the 8 dito we arrived at the famous Scamachy called also Sumahi and Samachy It is a very famous Mart and lies in 40 degr 30 min. In the Province of Schirwan or Media It is handsomly seated in a Vally so that one cannot see it till he be within Cannon Shot of the Town The distance between Derbent and Scamachy is computed a Weeks Journey excluding Sunday to wit following the High-way which is crooked and Winding for by reason of Hills and Rivers they are fain to travel far about or otherwise one might go it in 2 days there is also another way which Passengers take when they go not with the Caravan the Caravan would also go that way but the Tolls about the Mountains of Lahatz are very great and oftentimes long a clearing so that they rather chuse to go the other way In former times this was a Town of some consideration as to matter of strength but in the Wars of Abas the Scach or King of Persia against the Turks it was by him dismantled and made an open village which was ever by him a Maxim of Military Policy by reason the Turks were wont to retire into fortified Places under pretext of Refuge and after a few Moneths proving strong and numerous would surrender up the Town to their own Nation in time of War or upon an Uproar so that all the Walls toward the South were demolished and only those on the North-side left standing which will not much avail upon such sudden Occasions And now was none more happy than my self in imagination not thinking otherwise than suddenly to have my Freedom On the 1 of November I was sent for by the Ambassadour where being introduced into the Parlor he speedily bad me sit down and fell to asking many Questions about my Nation and my coming to be a Slave I told him all from the Beginning to the End He then called for a Bowl of Wine and bade me drink Whilst I sat there were two young Georgian Girls brought to the Door who being stole by the Dagestan Tartars of handsom Bodies and tolerable Beauties as also the Ambassadours own Countrey Women he had compassion of them and
and each one according to his Office had a place allotted him to wit those that roasted and those that boiled baked fried stewed c. each by themselvs The Cauldrons were set fast in the Walls and the Water they used was brought som Miles by an Aqueduct and let in by Silver Cocks In this Kitchin is provided Victuals for more than a Thousand People one day with another to wit Priests Pilgrims and other Poor People which have here their Maintenance They eat three times a day at 6 in the Morning at 10 before and 3 in the afternoon The two first Meals were given by Schach Sephy and the last at the Charges of the present King Before the Meals do begin they beat 2 Kettle-drums which they say their great Prophet Mahomet made use of when he was in the Camp and were brought from Medina by Schach Sedredin They have not much variety in their Diet and use mostly Rice and Mutton which is distributed very liberally to all the Appendents who seldom com short but leav of their Commons Coming out of this famous Kitchin we went into a large Court where were interred 12 Persian Kings to wit 1 Schach Sephy the Son of Tzaybraïl 2 Sedredin the Son of Sephy 3 Tzinid the Son of Sedredin 4 Sultan Aider the Son of Tzinid Whose Skin the Turks dreâ— over his Head whilst alive 5 Schach Ayder the Second 6 Ismaël the Son of Aider 7 Tamas the Son of Ismaël 8 Ismaël the Second Son of Tamas 9 Muhamed Choddabende Brother of Ismaël 10 Ismaël Myrsa Sons of Choddabende 11 Hemse Myrsa Sons of Choddabende 12 Abas Sons of Choddabende This noble Mausoleum or Place of Sepulture was erected by a verâ— famous Architect of Medina with whom Schach Sedredin covenateâ— to build it The Persians say that he had the Model out of Heaveâ— Above the Door stand these words in their manner of Rhyminâ— which jingles better than in English Whosoever is of a pure Heart 〈◊〉 him enter in and pray to GOD so shall his Sins undoubtedly be pardoned The firâ— Part which the said Sedredin had built was very magnificent aâ— stately but that which was added to it by Tzinid appears far moâ— splendid both in regard of the curious Architecture in which Aâ— seems to sport and in the Conveniency and Prospect from afar The Revenues of this Sepulchre are very great what with tâ— large Gifts which were given by the famous Sedredin at the Inaugâ—ration thereof and what by the Ample Donations that have beâ— liberally bestowed by other Kings and Princes from time to time sinâ— it's first Foundation not only of the Persians themselvs but alâ— of Indians Tartars and others that are of the Sect of Aly which commonly don upon Sickness Expedition of War Dangeroâ— Journeys and the like upon which they make Vows to beautiâ— this Holy Structure with some signal Ornament or put somthiâ— into the Tresury There are also other Revenues accrewing to thâ— Place bequeathed by Testament as if it were Remitted by Bills 〈◊〉 Exchange to the Souls of the Departed for they reckon that suâ— Gifts will redound to the welfar of their Souls Nor do such Donâ—tions solely consist in Money but in Cattle Utensils Moveables anâ— Merchandise The Cattle so bestowed is committed to Herdsmâ— for that end imployed and improved except such as is fit for Slaugâ—ter other Things are sold and the Money thrown into the Tresuâ— The Pilgrims that Offer any thing here be it more or less have a Maniple of Consecrated Annise given them together with a Certificat that they have visited and offered at this Holy Place This Ticket or Schedule they call Syaretname which is kept and shown by the Party upon Occasion who is thereby capable to serve the King in certain Offices suitable to the Value of what he offered althô the Commissioners somtimes willing to favour any indigent Person have the Opportunity to raise their Fortunes by granting them such a Billet or setting a greater Value upon upon the Offering so that there is Cheating as well in those Sacred Functions as in Temporal Negotiations The fast Revenues of this Meschair that are settled in the Town of Ardevil is the Rent of 200 Dwelling Houses 9 Hamans or Hot-baths 8 Carawanseras the Maydan with all the Buildings and Shops round about as also the Kaysery or Exchange 100 Shops in the Basar The Toll and Impositions of all Merchandises whatever Of the 57 Villages that are within the Jurisdiction of Ardebil 33 accrew to this Sanctuary and 5 in the Province of Serab In the City Tabris it hath 100 Dwelling-Houses and the like number of the most eminent Shops in all the Town and 2 Villages within the Jurisdiction of the same In Caswin are several Carawanseras and Baths as also in Kilan Astrarath and Mokan besides many other Revenues that are settled upon it in divers Provinces which could I have given an account of would fall too taedious and tire the Patience of my Reader so that it 's probable that this incredible Treasure which from time to time is accumulated upon this reputed Sanctuary must needs exceed the Royal Tresury it self and has alwaies more ready Money gathered so from a superstitious Zeal than the King is able to levy and paralel with all the Impositions within his Realm and Dominions Besides this famous and most pompous Royal Sepulchre Ardebil flourishes mainly in Traffic and Merchandise for hither throng all the Traders of Gistan Georgia Kurdistan and other Countreys Besides the Profit that the Citizens do receive from the continual concourse of strangers and Pilgrims from Places both near and remote It is also a great Thorow-fare from the Northern Regions to â—spaban and receivs a considerable Benefit of Caravans and Passengers who commonly stay here som time Twice a week is their Market at what time abundance of Pesants com to Town using Oxen and Kine instead of Sumpter-horses to carry their Goods Lastly this City is very famous in regard of its Antiquity being in times past the Royal Seat of Persia as it was before the Warrs of Alexander of Macedonia who had here his Residence as they averr and prove by many undeniable Tokens besides the Language of their Records which if we may take upon Credit as why not do sufficiently testifie it CHAP. XXIX The Author taken for a Persian which gave him occasion to see all that was worthy of remark The Caravan leavs Ardebil and goes over the famous Mountain Taurus The Head of the River Kisiloseyn Bad and uneasy Travelling by reason of steep Rocks Peril of Robbers Arrival at Sultanie Keydar Pey-Amber a wonderfull high Mountain Sultanie it 's Situation and by whom built Emarath the Noble Palace of King Choddahende The Temple of Schach Ismaël The present decaying State of â—ultany The Author shorn and habituated after the Persian Manner Pleasant Dales and Valleys Arrival at Casâ—in The Situation of that Place The Court of Schach Tamas The Place of
Convention or Exchange of Whores The Common Place of Sepulture and Metzid of Scach Beslade the Son of Hosseyn by which the Persians swear The Offering of a Camel FOurteen Days we staid in Ardebil during which time I had leisure to see what was worthy of Remark and Opportunity besides being apparreled like a Persian so that none distrusted me to be a Musulman but allowed me access over all When these 14 days were expired the Caravan made preparation to break up and pursue the Journey for Ispahan for which end many fresh Camels and Horses were taken in When the Caravan was ready we observed that the Company was considerably increased with new Passengers and Merchants On the 25 by sound of Trumpet all was warned to joyn themselvs with the Caravan that intended for â—spahan and accordingly left Ardebil and came to Busun which lies about 14 Miles from Ardebil where we staid that night The day following we broke up and had that day a very rocky and uneasy Way insomuch that most or all allighted from their Horses and Camels and went a foot By the way we met several Troops of Robbers who probably had understood what a Prey and Purchase we had yet finding the Caravan so very numerous durst not assail us At night we came to Sengoa a beautifull Village where we had very good Wine and made our selvs merry but not to excess for that is in general odious to the Persians Here I saw the best Beauties and most comly Faces that I have seen in all Persia their Women seem to have a greater Liberty than in most places where they do not only go covered abroad but are also denied the converse with Men for here they go bare with their Face and are very familiar with those of the Masculine Gender and if I be not mistaken were too familiar with some who within a few daies after began to scratch their Heads and this is the first time I knew that the Persian Women understood French In sum our Company enjoy'd themselvs here so contentedly and well that som of 'em thought the Sun had mistaken himself and was risen an hour too soon The day following leaving Sengoa we had high and rocky way but towards the Evening came into a most sweet and pleasant Dale or Plain through which a River glided very swiftly This Valley was very pleasant and notwithstanding the season appeared as if it were in May. This River is called Kisâ—loseyn having a very fair Stone Bridge over it over which we passed and pitched on the South side in the open Field for there were no Houses to be seen On the 28 th we broke up and went over the famous Taurus being a very rough and dangerous way insomuch that all the Company were fain to allight and lead their Camels and Horses till we came into a Valley where we took our Rest for an Hour or two This Valley is very deep and a Nest of Robbers and Vagabonds who find many lurking Places to hide themselvs in out of which they assail and surprise Travailers if they think themselvs strong enough but we as was said before being increased to a considerable Number knew our selvs sufficiently out of peril Out of this Valley ariseth the River Kisiloseyn which running very swiftly and beating thorow the Rocks makes a very hideous Murmur so that one cannot hear another speak thus receiving as it were inlargement runs through the Champain Countrey of Kâ—lan and thence is hurried with an admirable celerity into the Caspian Lake into which it empties it self On the Banks of this River is a Village bearing the same name where is a fair Stone Bridge of 9 Arches or Bows All along the Way side grow great plenty of Almond Cypress and other Trees which served us all the way in stead of Parasols but when we were come over the River found the Way very bad being forced to clamber over Rocks the Path being so narrow that only one Camel at once could go on it On each side were many great Clefts and deep Caves which with the rattling of the Horses feet made a dreadfull and horrid Eccho and being come to a place which was the fullest of those Caverns all the Company gave a Shout which with an Eccho resounded from one Place to another that it seemed as if there had been 10 or 12 Troops of Men in so many several Places calling to one another On this way it happened that a Camel broke the Leathers wherewith his Pack was fastened to the Crutchet or Saddle being just at the Brink of a wide and deep Pit where no Bottom could be seen It cost the Slaves who attended him much labour to save him and were in struggling once in great hazard themselvs of tumbling down Camel and all yet at last with loss of the Pack which in spite of all they could do fell down they got clear The Pack was very rich and the loss thereof so concerning to the Merchant that if others had not hindred him he had thrown the Slaves after it for their Negligence This ill way much detarded us on this Days Journey for we were more than 5 Hours in travailing one Mile Being got over this bad way we found a Village where it was designed that we should take our nights rest The name of the Town was Keyntze being very poor and not in a Condition to supply us with such Necessaries as we desired for our Money On the 29 we broke up and had that day very good way coming at night to the village Hortzimur where we were very ill at ease being cold Weather and the Place not able to supply us with House-room The next day leaving Hortzimur we travailed thrô a very dry and barren Heath meeting by the way with som Robbers who being but few in number durst not make any attempt upon us However night coming upon us here we were fain to set down on the Heath and for fear of Robbers forced to watch all night but were so benummed with cold that we many times wished for break of day On the first of the next Moneth we came into a litle City called Senkan which is reputed the best Refreshing place between Derbent and Ispahan there being plenty of Oranges Lemmons Pomegranats Melons divers sorts of huge Grapes and many other Fruits then out of season Veal and Mutton was here very cheap as also Bread Thus finding Provision here very cheap we bought what we thought necessary As for the City it self there is not much worthy of Remark about it save onely a very fair and beautifull Metzid It is situated in a Plain and a flat Ground but near the Town very barren and dry It has been formerly a great Emporium and flourished more than 4 Centuries of years in Traffic and Commerce with the circumjacent Countreys but since it was demolished by the great Tamerlan is so run to decay that it is out of Hopes ever to arrive to it's
Scorpion and a kind of fell Spiders which are a powerfull Poyson with the strange manner of Cure for the same Their Arrival at Natens A Faulcon fights and conquers an Eagle EIght days long stayd we in Caswin and departed thence on the 17 of December coming at night to the Village Membere where all the Houses are built round so that at a distance they appeared like so many Pigeon-Cotes The Town its self is well stored with Necessaries and affoarded us what we had occasion for On the 18 we came to the Village Areseng which is situated in a very pleasant Countrey and withall fertile affoarding good store of Fruit as Pomegranats Oranges Lemmons and other Summer Fruits then out of season Here we thought good to take up our Nights Lodging On the 19 we betook our selvs to our Journey and that day travailed about 24 English Miles over a high but level way coming towards night to the great Carawansera called Choskeru This is a very commodious and large Inn built altogether of square stones within is a spacious Court where was a Fountain of very good Water the Rooms and Appartments were no less commodious On the Walls I found several Dutch Polish and Russian Names and also wrote my own On the 20 we had a very pleasant days Journey through a delightfull Landship very close inhabited and full of Villages and Hamlets coming at night to a Carawansera where we took up our Lodging for that night and the next day set forward for Saba which is a City lying in 34 degr and 56 min. in a plain Field having on the West the Mountains of Elivend which for their exceeding heighth may be seen many Miles distant Saba is far less than Caswin but is munited with a Brick Wall which Bricks are not burned as ours but only hardned with the Sun Within the City is nothing worthy of remark but all lies wast and foul They drive no Trade here than what is usually don in Villages and mean Market Towns to wit Wheat and Barley which is both plentifull and to be had at a low price Fruits as Pomegranats Oranges Lemmons Grapes and other sorts which grow aswell within as without the Town There is a place not far from Saba where the Ground is red and barren which the Persians say was by reason that Omarzaad within whose Jurisdiction this Place was had murthered their Holy Hosseyn and for this reason it was cursed by Mahomet for his Posterities sake that it should never bring forth either Herb or Tree nor that any Vegetable should like or thrive being transplanted On the Southeast side of the Town grows abundance of Tobacco but not cultivated or planted which is no small profit to the Inhabitants On the 24 we departed from Saba and at night set down at the Carawansera Schach Ferabath It was now good travailing by reason of the Cold which in this hot Climate is very acceptable being not far from the Torrid Zone where in the Summer time besides the scorching heat of the Sun the Ground is so hot that it brings all the Skin off ones Feet the ways being altogether dry and sandy which also casts a reflection of the Sun upon ones Face as if it came out of a Furnace whence many are stifled with the Heat On the 25 we came to the City Khom and took up our Lodging in a Carawansera near to the great Maydan This seems to be a City of an ancient standing and is at present very large but by the Ruins of a Wall a considerable distance from the Town it appears that it has bin anciently much larger than now it is It lies in 34 degr 17 min. Northerly Latitude and is situate on a level flat Ground having on the right hand the Mountains of Elivend whence issue two Rivers which run thrô this City first uniting themselvs a litle above the Town In the Winter they lay a Bridge over it but in the Summer it is some times dry Near this Bridge stands a litle Chappel wherein they say the Sister of one Iman Risa who was one of the most eminent Successors of Mahomet lies interred The Persians have also a special veneration for this Female Saint and make long Pilgrimages to kiss her Tomb. However the City Khom has many fair and spacious Streets with many Piazzas and Galleries to defend from Sun and Rain They have also great plenty of Fruit as at Saba as also Cotton and Tobacco which grows here in no less plenty than at Saba aforesaid Besides the many rare Fruits and Plants they have there is an excellent sort of Melons having the outward form and colour of an Orange and is oftentimes taken for one but being cut up appears within as another Melon These they commonly carry in the Hand for the delicate flavour but have no very acceptable or delicious Tast They have also an odd kind of Cucumber about 18 or 20 Inches long but small which they pickle much after the manner we do ours and use 'em for Sauce They have also the common sort of Melons which we commonly call Musk-millions that far surpass ours for Delicacy Khom is a place very considerable in regard of Traffic this being eminent for Swords Knives Armorers and Cutlers Works Some of our Company bought here Scymiter Blades for which they paid to the value of 20 Crowns a piece yet were not those of the best sort The Steel they have from Niris near Ispahan where are several Mines Besides the Smiths work their chief Manufactory is Potts there being many Fullers who are esteemed the best in Persia and their work praeferred before Porceline which is transmitted all over the Countrey The Inhabitants are sociable and friendly enough to converse withall when you have not much to loose but we were warned to look well about us for they say that they are brought into the World with their Fist doubled My Patron lost here 2 new Scymiters he had lately bought and I a Tobacco box Six days long stay'd the Caravan here during which time there was much Merchandise negotiated Here I was cruelly pestered with a Greek Renegado who continually rail'd upon me crying You faithless Dog you Infidel c. The Fellow had so often affronted me with these and the like Words that I was no longer able to endure him but finding an opportunity I grasp'd him by the Collar and trounc'd him lustily off with my Fist and at last getting him down I pummeld him back and sides saying You varlet now you shall find the Fist of a Man and not the Paw of a Dog He seeing himself unable to get up again drew out his Knife which he indeavored to run into my Belly but I observing got it wrested out of his Hands althô not without a litle slash or two on the Palm of my Hand with which I gave him an Excellent Cross in the Cheek that he looked like St. Agnes of Monte Sante withall telling him
dealings of those of the Caravan The Author meets with the Theef that had pillaged him Mr. Struâ— well entertained by a French Chirurgeon A Description of Scyras Diveâ— Mestzids or Sepulchres The Pallace of the Chan. Excellent Wine aboâ— Scyras Noble Orchards Departure from Scyras The Special Bounty oâ— the Carmelites and the French Chirurgeon Dates plentiful and cheap How the Date-trees are propagated Arrival at Scharim They meet a Caravan Assailed by night of 30 Robbers who kill 5 Men of the Company and at 〈◊〉 by a unanimous continuance of the Caravan force them to yield The Robbers bâ— Quarter which is refused They suffer themselvs to be bound are diversly toâ—tured and dispatched Great plenty of Partridges AFter we had refreshed our selvs and rested the Caravan we goâ— all in a readiness and the first day towards the Evening cameâ— the Village Alikon which we found well plenished with all necessâ—ries and Refreshments for our selvs and good Provender for oâ— Horses and Camels Thus having spent the fore part of the nigâ— in mirth and divertisement we took our rest and the next dâ— pursued our Journey coming on the 8 of March to Scyras where brought the Goods of the East India Company into their Ware-houâ— there So soon as I was arrived at Scyras I came to understand that theâ— was a Monastery of Carmelites in the Town who had bin always friendly to Christian Passengers and Travailers in assisting them with thâ— advice c. Whereupon I went to find out the Convent and beiâ— come got speech with 2 of them who received me very kindly aâ— desired me to lodge in the Convent so long as I stay'd at Scyâ— and treated me all the while with all the Delicacies they couâ— get and the Wine that the Countrey affoarded The one was aâ— Italian of the City of Naples by name Felicello the other a Pole froâ— Warsaw and called Jadistau During my aboad here our Caravans Company had made unanimous resolution among themselvs not to proceed on their Journey with me and that upon very slender and weak pretences they had already received half their Moneys at Ispahan and we were not half way by much but whether it was because my Money was stollen or because perhaps that they feared to be examined about the Theft when we came to Gameron and so condignly punished I cannot determin But whatsoever their Reason was they left me there at a great loss so that I was fain to seek out a new Conduct and supply my self with fresh Camels and Horses which without the help of the 2 Monks had bin impossible for me to accomplish The third day after my arrival at Scyras I went without the Town to walk and accidentally found the Thief who had stole my Moneys and with the help of his Brother had so misused me as was said before bathing himself in the River so that seeing so fair an opportunity to revenge the Villany I ran towards him and with a Damaskin Scymiter I alwaies wore gave him an excellent Cross on the Cheek and besides that lent him a few slashes about his back and shoulders which don I took his clothes and cut them all to patches â—o that the poor Caitiff was fain to go mother naked into the Town I threatned him also to write to Ispahan and make complaint at Court and in order thereto to address my self to the Chan of Scyras to dispatch the Letters This it seems put him into such Consternation as well as his Companions that he durst not appear abroad to challenge me for any injury don him fearing perhaps upon my address to the Deputy that they would be secured till further Information nor did I ever see him since Besides the gentle Reception and the great kindness these Friars showd me I was kindly treated by one Doctor Robin a French-man which the Persians called Hakim Robin for Hakim in their Tongue is as much as to say Doctor but his first name I cannot remember This same Gentleman I must confess showed me great friendship and sent a Letter for me to Holland inclosed in his own So that in the hardest and greatest extremities I ever found som Friends and when I was almost in despair of ever returning to my pristin State and plunged in the most grievous Miseries obtained nevertheless by the Providence of Almighty GOD som unexpected Sublevation that I should know what it is to be miserable and what it is to be thankfull The Land round about Scyras is very fertile produces great plenty of Corn and Fruit but abov all is eminent for the rich Vineyards insomuch that this Place and Countrey has got the name beyond all the Provinces in Persia for delicate Wine surpassing not only the Candian and Canary-Wines but all the Wines in the World for a delicate tast relish and flavor From hence the King of Persia and all the great Personages at Ispahan have their Wine and hither repair the English and Dutch to market nay such is the esteem thereof that notwithstanding the great abundance of the yearly product it is as dear here as Canary Sack in the Low-Countreys This Trade in Wines which they of Scyras have is at present so considerable that there is not so much as half an Acre together of wast ground or hardly imployed in any other use for the Vineyards com so close to the Town that one may throw a stone from the Walls into them Such ground as is not proper to nourish the vine they convert to Orchard use and have many fair Arborets or Nurseries for young Fruit-Trees of all sorts which are transported hence to other Places the Fruit of this Countrey being nothing inferior to their Wines They have abundance of Oranges Cittrons Pomegranats Almonds Dates Apples Pears and almost all Fruits that I have seen elsewhere insomuch that the Town of Scyras as one beholds the Countrey from som high building or Tower seems to stand in the Center of an Earthy Paradise Without the City is a Ward inhabited by a People that came from Babylon when that City was taken in by the Turks Without stands a fair House built for charitable use where all the Poor of the City that are destitute of a Meals meat may have their needs supplyed at the Kings charges if they have the humility to fetch it this House is called Aly Kapin where there are several persons in service to dress Victuals for the said use and have as good custom as all the Inns in Scyras Having staid here a considerable time and so nobly entertained by the said Carmelites all the while I was in Scyras I went to take my leave of them giving them many Thanks the only Tresure I had by me for their many Civilities and setting forward on our Journey came at night to a good and very commodious Carawansera where we took our Rest Near this Place was a Fish-pond in which som of our company got great store of Fish on a sudden
last time we made ready for the pursuit of our Journey and in the Fore-noon came into Gammeron where we were friendly received and I by permission of the Heer Françoys de Haâ—s then Director brought into the Companies Lodge At my first coming every one took me for a Persian being shorn after that manner but hearing me speak Dutch they asked me if I was one of those who were in the service of the Czar of Moscovia I answered Yes and also gave them a full Relation of what had passed and of the great hardship I had suffered since in Slavery and otherwise about which they were very curious and asked me divers Questions The Director himself was also pleased to send for me into the great Hall where he welcom'd me out of my Slavery and promised to send me by the first Shipping for Batavia CHAP. XXXVI A Description of Gamron or Bendar and the Etymology The great Traffic with all Nations Vnwholsomness of the Air and Heat at Gamron Palepunschen an unwholsom Drink how made The Earth dry and barren Fertility of Kismisch Of the Inhabitants of Gamron A wonderful Tree growing without the City An Indian reputed Saint The best season for strangers to com and Traffic at Gamron Merchandise brought thither by the English The English receiv Toll with the Scach The Hollanders trade without paying Toll The Author falls very sick and in despair of Recovery The kindness and bounty of L. van Akersloot to him He recovers Set sail from Gamron Arrival at Maschate and a Description of that Town The violent Heat about Maschate which renders the Air very unwholsom Their Departure from Maskate Arrival at Batavia The Author hires himself for Sailmaker Comes with 7 Ships before Bantham Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope GAmeron is also by the Persians called Bendar which is as much as to say The Key of the Kingdom like the Name Derbent already mentioned It lies in 27 degr Northerly Latitude upon the Gulf of Persia on each side stand 2 Castles built after the old manner of Fortification but very strong and able to command the Haven from side to side they are also well supplied with Men and â—ave good store of Ammunition That part of the Town which lies toward the Countrey is munited with a reasonable strong Wall and has without at a convenient Distance several Redoubts to defend the Upper Quarter of the City There is also a considerable strong Redoubt on the Coast Gammeron is in respect of it's commodious site becom a very famous Emporium and that on a sudden being lately a poor small Town inhabited by Fishers It is frequented by Indians Moors English French and Hollanders who drive here a mighty Trade which three last have their Houses of Residence next to the shore and stand very Convenient for loading and unloading of Goods Gammeron is a place subject to a very unwholsom Air being a hot Climat the Heats continuing violent from May till September which is the reason that so many Strangers either die or dwindle away with a lingring Disease which if they once get it will hardly leave them althô they should change the climat Besides the Unwholsom Airs and Damps there are many Strangers who destroy themselvs with drinking of a Liquor much in use there called Palepunshen being compounded of Arak Sugar and Raisins which iâ— so bewitching that they cannot refrain from drinking it if they onâ— com to taste it being very delicious and tempting It occasioâ— a Giddiness in the Head Feavers and Fluxes and is so corrosâ— that som who have drunk immoderatly of it and died being opâ—ned their Bowels were gnawed through and through The scorcâ—ing Heat of that Clime also renders the Earth very dry and baren so that there is little or nothing that grows about it save only Dates which like best in sandy and dry ground but as for Gardenâ— they are very rare to be seen except here and there a little one whicâ— with great trouble and continual Watering bring forth a few Poâ—herbs and Roots However they are very well supplyed with many sorts of Refreshments as Cittrons Oranges Pomegranats Peaches Apricocks Grapes Almonds Apples Pears and other Fruits as well as Plants which grow upon the Island Kâ—mish about threâ— Leagues from Gammeron but their most usual Diet is Fish The Inhâ—bitants go almost quite naked by reason of the great Heat and aâ— of a tawny yellowish Colour The Women adorn their Arms Noses and Ears with Rings and Plates of Gold Silver Copper and Iron every one according to their ability 〈…〉 〈…〉 Hillangâ—e Logâ—c 〈…〉 〈◊〉 〈…〉 5. 〈◊〉 〈…〉 〈…〉 8 Eâ—n 〈◊〉 〈…〉 10 D' 〈…〉 On the 18 of July I was visited with a most violent burning Feaveâ— which raged so cruelty that I grew desperate for I felt my self eveâ— day weaker and weaker wherefore supposing notwithstanding tâ— contrary opinion of many that if I should change the Air thaâ— should change the Air that I should recover and therefore gâ— one to address himself to the Hâ—er Director de Haas and in my naâ— intercede that I might go for Batavia with the Ship Nâ—ytsenburâ— which lay ready for sail The Director was pleased to give order thâ— I should go aboard which was matter of Joy for me fearing if I haâ— stay'd much longer that I should have taken my leav of the Worlâ— Thus I was brought aboard and met there with one Laurence 〈◊〉 Akersloot who asked me from whence I was I told him From Waâ—mer he told me that he was also born near Wormer and for oâ— Countreys sake gave me his Cabin charging his Servant thâ— when I called for either Spanish or other Wine that he should draâ— it for me and serve me with what I had occasion for this kindneâ— I have great reason to remember and be thankfull for being an uâ—speakable Trouble to him who lay so long in a place where he wâ— ill at ease nor did he ever fail or decline to the very last Mean whâ— I lay very disconsolate and so ill that the Doctor had given me oveâ— I was so swollen that the Cabin where I lay was too narrow for mâ— I therefore prayed the Doctor to let me blood but he refused saying that if I came to dy it would be said that he was the occasion 〈◊〉 it however I still persisted till at last he was fain to condesceâ— So soon as I was let blood I found my self abundantly eased and frâ— time to time grew better althô 't was very long before I was restore to my former strength The Carpenter of the Ship was also at tâ— same time struck with a violent Feaver and dyed by the Way 1. d' Vimarckt 2. d' Strant versié met veel Coopmans waren 3. Twâ—â— Hollantse Scheâ—pen In the Moneths of August and September it is here so incredible hot and scorching that I am not able to express the condition that Strangers are in being as if
and most barbarously massacred the Inhabitants and growing both in number and power were becom very formidable both to the King of Persia and the Great Duke They were headed by one Stenko or Stephen Radzin a discontented Person and one of great Power as to his proper Abilities bearing a Soveraign Aw among them About 14 days before our Arrival at Astrachan he had taken a costly Persian Boes valued at several Tuns of Gold in which were Horses and several other Presents sent from the King of Persia to the Great Duke of Moscovy ON the 17 as the Waywod of Astrachan was aboard our Ship came an Express bringing news that Radzin and the Cosacs had submitted themselvs to the Great Duke upon which the Waywod gave order that we should fire our Guns which we did The said Letters further mentioned how that they had delivered the Horses belonging to the Great Duke to the Russian General ON the 19 came 3 Cosacs into Astrachan in very costly Attire and with great pomp whereof the youngest was the Orator The Waywood after a long Treaty assured them of being established in the Great Dukes Favour But it seemed that they had som disgust because they were not formally introduced as is customary with all Ambassadors and Legates The Waywod excused it saying That he himself was a Bojar and resided there in quality of Waywod yet at his first taking that Dignity upon him was not introducted by his Predecessor nor the Nobility of Astrachan which was Argument and Token that he was not to do the like to others When the Conference was over the Waywod invited them to his House and gave them a splendid Treat ON the 21 early in the Morning came the Russian Fleet before the Town consisting of 53 Stroegs or Rowing-Barks upon each Stroeg was only one Piece of Ordnance but those in the Rere had 2 to wit one before and another abaâ—t Aboard each were so many Strelitzers which are the Soldiery that they could not mov if there had bin occasion to do any execution The said Fleet by order of the Waywod came to Anchor on the other side of the River About 3 in the Afternoon came the Cosacs consisting in 23 Sail and a considerable number of Men. Upon their Arrival we had an order from the Waywod to receiv 200 Strelitzers aboard under our Standard who placed themselvs in order round about the Ship The Russian Army then loosed and came before the City giving the Salvo with all their great Guns at once with abov 3000 Musquets which the Cosacs answered with their Cannons and Musquets upon which they in the City put out a white Flag which was a Token for us to Fire which we did with all our great Guns and about 200 Musquets Mean while the Master of our Ship fell over board but was taken up again thô with much ado for the weather was a little tempestuous Soon after the Russians gave fire a second time and came close up to our Ship upon which we gave fire for the last time with 13 Guns and 200 Musquets The Cosacs rowed off and came to Anchor where the Russian Fleet rode at first ON the 22 in the Morning betimes the Cosacs rowed up the River and were on a sudden out of sight and that morning issued a Proclamation that none should have any Commerce or Converse with them On the 23 came Radzin himself in Person into Astrachan and was saluted by all the Gentry the Waywod was also council'd to bring the Ammunition and Standard of the Rebells into the City which he resolv'd upon Mean while came news to the Waywod that Radzin was drunk whereupon he gave order that they should endeavor by good and gentle words to get him out of Town he being very unruly when overtaken with Liquor in which mood he had destroyed many Men both of his own Rout and others But the Insolencies he had committed during this Uproar cannot be recounted althô 't is said that besides the many Thousands of the Great Dukes Subjects he had caused to be massacred whereof himself boasted to have dispatched 8000 at one time he had from time to time massacred above 40000 Persians The Copy of a NARRATIV Sent from Capt. D. Butler dated at ISPAHAN March 6 th 1671. Worthy Sir AFTER a taedious delay we finally received an Order from the Great Duke to imbark our selvs with the Ships Company and com to Moscou Which being shown us I insisted continually that according to the said Order I might go up but it was thought good that the Ship should be first put in Equippage and supplied with Ammunition and in case of necessity be used against the Cosacks who under the Conduct of one Stenko Radzin as chief had already depopulated many fair Countreys upon the Caspian Sea and then reconciled to the Great Duke But in the Moneth of March came news how that the Cosacs were again revolted upon which Colonel Levonti Bogdonof was dispatched by the Great Duke with a Band of 800 Men to wit 400 Russian Cavalrie and 400 Nagaian Tartars to march to Zarit a a City lying about 80 Dutch Miles above Astrachan that being a City which abutts upon the Frontiers of the Cosacks and commands the passage of the River Don or Tanais which River nevertheless doth not fall into the Wolga as som have bin of opinion and as most Maps do make it for the Cosacks do come almost a days Journey with their Boats from the Don to the Wolga which they ballance with pieces of Timber the better to endure the violence of the stream for they are but of one entire piece or Trunks of Trees hollowed out These people have the Russian Speech and the same Religion They have also their Asyla or Places of Refuge granted them by the Great Duke whither they have recourse when they have perpetrated any villanous Fact or Enormity ABOUT the 27 or 28 of April came a Narrativ by a Courier from the abovesaid Bogdanof importing how that the Cosacks had taken in Tzaritza and that about 1200 Moscovians were kill'd and drown'd but to give a full account of the Stratagems they had used to gain the Town would make me more prolix and taedious than my present design is to be These 1200 Strelitzers or Soldiers were a part of those that were sent from Moscou to enforce the respectiv Garrisons upon the Wolga but especially this City in which the Great Duke reposed great Trust being able to check as I have said before the main Passage of the Rebels in their March for the South-East Countrey THE same day came news how that the Field Tartars were at discord and factious among themselvs and being drawn into 2 Head-parties used all manner of hostile Acts against each other so that Bogdanof thought good to draw up and march forward to Chornojar a City about 50 Dutch Miles from Astrachan He had also sent down a Captiv Cosac to Astrachan who was put upon the
to acquaint the Waywod with the matter before he should come to hear â—t from others and with one to let him know the reason But he who was my Interpreter was also fled with them so that I was fain to make use of the Chirurgeon before mentioned Having acquainted the Governour with what had passed he â—ow'd himself outwardly not to be much concerned especially when I told him that they were not gone over to the Cosacks THE same day came a Courier with an Express from Moscou being the same Gentleman who had brought the news how that the Russes about Zaritsa were revolted This Gentleman's name was Danile Tourlekojof and had been formerly with me aâ—oard our Ship upon the Wolga between Casan and Astrachan and intimated me with privacy how that the Revolting Party had used the Lievtenant General and other Russian Officers after a most barbarous manner and that Astrachan it self as well as all the Countrey round about was already betray'd but further said he not THE day following being the 9 th of June I received an order from the Governour â— visit the Fortifications of the City The like orders had an English Colonel â—ho was come hither from Terki which City was was also fortified anew by the said Coll being situated in the Land of the Circas-Tartars about 2 Leagues from the Caspian Sea The old City or Castle as Adam Olearius writes was first built and fortified by one Cornelius Claasz a Hollander This Gentleman had the charge of one Quarter committed to him and my self the other to repair it so that the Men might be secure Soon after came the Waywod himself in person and desired our Advice what to do for Security of the Town The English Gentlemans advice was to make some Outworks without the Walls but I advised him to make Proclamation that all such as had any way revolted or engaged themselvs to the Cosac Party should be pardoned and declared free Remmissionaries in case they would come and submit themselvs to the Governour and that the Townsmen should have some money distributed among them and the most popular to be drawn in by promise of Advancement and the like so that those being leading Men might appease the rest However my advice in that was rejected MEAN while a narrow Watch was held and the Soldiery lay all night upon the Walls and 2 Men at every Port-hole to be ready in case of a silent Attacque THE Persians Calmuc-and Circas-Tartars under conduct of a Persian Gentleman who was there upon his way to the Court at Moscou upon an Ambassage from the King of Persia did also their utmost indeavors to assist us and passed away the night with Music Dancing and other Mirth The Post assigned them was the Poet Nietze Basna being the Bulwark where they usually torture their Malefactors ON Sunday being the 15 th of June I was invited to dinner with the Waywod When the Table was done he gave me a Present to wit a yellow Silk Coat 2 pair of Breeches and 2 shirts that being the Custom of the Russians upon extraâ—dinary Occasions forsooth He also made me many fair promises besides the frâ—dom of his House and Table for my Good service having about 100 Men unâ— my Conduct nor did I appear too remiss in my duty for I went the Rounds eveâ— night ofter than my Order and Injunction was THE Thursday following being the 19 th we had Intelligence how that the Cosâ— Forces were greatly increased and that they were a Marching towards us which neâ— continued and was confirmed by a continual recourse of Land Tartars and Fisheâ— into Astrachan There was also a false rumor spread about the Town as if oâ— Men that were fled had loaden the Cannon that lay upon the Walls with loose Poâ—der others that it was with Balls and no Powder and a third that it was first wâ— Balls and then with Powder all which coming to the Governours Ear he sent hâ— me but coming to worm the Guns in his presence found it was but a false and malicious report raised by some prejudiced Persons to cast an odium upon them and 〈◊〉 turn me out of Favour ON Friday the 20 th of June the Waywod made me Lieutenant Coll. in place of James Wondram which by provision I took upon me but being not well pleased with my Charge the Coll. who observed it seem'd a little discontented and said in presence of the Governour That it was not now a fit time to solicit in for sâ—d things whence I collected that be thought that I had made it my business to be advaâ—ced but was soon after better informed when he would himself have confirmâ— me in the Regiment and I with great earnestness declined it The Post which waâ— assigned me was in the same Quarter with the Coll. on the Tartarian side wheâ— the Fort was the weakest ON Sunday June 22 came the Cosacks within sight of Astrachan and sent Cosac Trumpetter with a Russian Priest to demand the Town The said Cosac had also a Letter for me in Dutch wherein I was advised not to fight with my Men if I hoped for Quarter or Mercy at their hands The said Letter was taken from me by the Waywod before I had read it quite out and torn in Pieces The Trumpetter and Priest had Gaggs put in their Mouths that they should cause no commotion or alteration among the Commons and were soon after beheaded ON Munday came the Cosac-Army with about 300 Keels great and smal close to the City puting in at a River near the Vineyards that ly about half a Leagâ— from the Walls of the Town Upon this we set the Tartarian Tents on fire Meanwhile I stood upon the top of the Governours house with the Governour himself and casually espied several Boats in the River before the Town I therefore advised the Governour not to let them tarry there for althô they were but Fishers Boats yet they might give intelligence to the Enemy wherefore he gave order immediatly to sink them which was forthwith put in execution That afternoon the Persian and Circas-Tartars had taken 4 Cosacks who were put to the Rack and after confession two were hanged up and other two beheaded in presence of the Governour THE day following the Collonel would have confirmed me in the Office I theâ— supplied to wit as Lieutenant Colonel which I nevertheless declined as before This same day about noon the Great Dukes Factor presented us with a Pipe of strong Beer and a Quantity of Tobacco which we distributed among the Soldiers to give 'em Courage and keep them content In the forepart of the night I went with the Chirurgeon to do the Rounds which don I lay me down to sleep a little in my Tent but was quickly awaked with the Alarm which gave notice how that the Cosacks approached to begin their first storm which happened about 3 a clock at the Wosnasinske Gate where our Ship-master and the Waywods Brother had the
â—ande Tâ—ora gesmete E. D'Gouvernour Ivan Simennowitz en order Cansetier vande to ren gesmeten G. Offeciers van Proseroski â—lendich omgebrackt H. Alexe Alexewitz secretaris by de ribâ—eâ— op gâ—ngâ—n de soon van câ—n Cham uâ—t Cilan I. â—ee Soonen vande Gouvernâ—ur â—yde Boris 〈◊〉 by de 〈◊〉 opâ—hangen K. Geâ—ngenâ— dis aâ—le omgebracht sya L. Vlucâ—ende dis Achâ—râ—alt en godâ—ot worâ—en M. Plaets daer sy de Doodeâ— op mallander 〈◊〉 N. Wrn parsery O. De Kerck P. Net Gerecht Huys Q. Muur van't Slodt On the Wednesday following was the Secretary Alexo Alexowits hung up upon a Flesh-hook by the Ribbs and suffered much despightful usage and Torments before he died The same was done to a Noble mans Son of Gilan Also two Sons of the Vice-roy Deputy or Waywod were hung up by the heels the one being a very hopefull youth of about 16 years of Age and the other a Child of about 7 or 8 at the most The Day following they were both found alive and the youngest at the intercession and Mediator of some of Radzins Minions was taken down and saved alive but the eldest was thrown down from the Top of the Tower whilst still alive which was the Death his Father suffered The same day I had News how that Christian Brand one of my Men was still alive and was constrained to feign himself as Cosac On the 20 th of July the Cosac General Radzin departed with an infinite number of small Shipping and severall Thousands of Men drawing 20 Men out of each Company to serve for the Garrison at Astrachan and left there 2 Governors of equal Command and Power the one being a Cosac and the other a Russ ON the 2 of August began a New Massacre continuing for several days together where takeing one day with another were 150 Persons killed sparing neither sex nor Age. For which reason I began to hunt out for a Cave in the Earth where I might save my self in time of need hearing of nothing but a perpetual and incessant massacre and a general Lamentation of Parents for their Children Widdows and Orphans for their Husbands and Fathers and that as well among those who had bin instrumental and most forward to let in the Rebells as others that opposed it a just reward for their Treachery who had been assistant in the Bloodshed of those who under GOD should have protected them from such dismal Calamities ABOUT this time I dispatched three Letter for Ispahan and had notice how that Christian Brandt was set free It seems that he was taken for a Persian having a brown swarthy complexion and by such means was spared in the massacre for all the Dutch were hewn down or otherwise dispatched save onely L. Fabritius Son in Law to Captain Rudolph ABOUT the same time I had news by the Chirurgeon how that my Ships-company that betook themselvs to flight with the Shallop were run astrand on the Scemkal or Dagestan Coast a Countrey butting out against the Caspian Sea ON the 22 of August was much Tyranny committed in the City and people of all ages massacred The Chirurgeon after a long soliciting procured a Pasport to depart with a Servant to attend him altho not without giving Security for his Return This gave me likewise opportunity to leave the place under pretext of being his Servant ON Munday in the afternoon being Aug. 25 we left Astrachan and imbarqued our selves aboard a Vessel belonging to some Banjan Merchants who were also pillaged and robbed of all they had ON Tuseday we came to Sea sailing close by the Coast and to the Southward We also saw 3 small Vessels or Barks which indeavoured to keep Company with us Having passed Settinabo Gora the Wind was flat North and about the Evening all was calm THE Day following one of the above mentioned Shipping hail'd us and said that they were bound for Terki and came from Astrachan being laden with Salt We kept them Company along the Coast near the broken Land which is all grown over with huge tall Reeds we had 11 and 12 Foot Water At night one of those Vessels stray'd about a Cannon shot from us and the next morning 2 Barks made up towards us and gave Fire without doing any Execution But when they came near us the cowardly Banians fell upon their knees and begged their Lives In each Boat were 9 Persons and aboard of us were 46 some Persians Tartars and Bouchars but most Banians Coming to board us they plundered all to our very Provision I had about 8 Rubbles in Money and my Seal-ring which had bin once already redeemed from the Cosacs This Ring with the Money I gave to the Chirurgeon but they threatning to put him to the Torture when it came to his turn to be pillaged he confessed all and delivered up the Money and Ring besides 4 double Ducats of his own but found an opportunity to hide 52 Ducats more after an especial manner about his Body WHEN the Cosacks had taken all and pillaged us of what they could find they held a certain sort of a Council among themselves what they should do with us At last it was resolved after a long debate that we should be saved alive but turned off to Sea with charge not to come anigh the Coast any more upon pain of being thrown over board if they came to take us again UPON this they left us and gave us opportunity to make use of the Wind which was Westerly and about the Evening with a brisk Gale and a dark moon we set sail and bore up to the Sea BUT after we had sailed about 2 Leagues the Weather began to be somwhat boistrous so that we were fain to put in at a small Creek of an Island where we lay at Anchor till Saturday following at what time the Weather growing more calm and temperate we weighed and bore up again to the Coast where we immediatly descried 2 Barks that made up to us and at last came close by the board The Chirurgeon and I had taken our last Farewel of each other expecting nothing more than Death In short they fell a plundering us and I to pass for a Banjan had anointed my self with Black tempered with Greace and tied a Handhercheif about my Head but it was so botchingly don that they found occasion to ask the Chirurgeon what for a Black Devil that I was In the mean while they searched very close for Bread and Provision which I seeing pointed to my mouth whereupon they were so merciful as to return me a part of the Provision back again Two Degestan Merchants were thrown over board and the Chirurgeon who passed for a Pole was most severely beat They threatned that if they met us again near the Coaâ— that we should have no Mercy at their hands Meanwhile I had lost my little Compass so that we had no other help in directing our Course than only the Sun and North-star Towards the Evening it began
283. Biloege the Fish whereof Cavear is made 199. Boa Vista insul Situation and Description 5. Bocharen a Place affoarding great plenty of Furrs 223. Bochdan the Ambassadâ—ur for the King of Poland his ill deportment at Scamachi desires to become Turk c. 244 seqq His churlishness to the Author ibid. Asks his advice if he might go for Holland by the consent of the East-India Company their Directors 246. Boghze Dome a Place appointed for Burial of unsanctified Russes 150. Boldea the Haven of Riga 115. Bologne a City in Italy resembling a Ship 72. Bonzi of Syam their Office Habit c. 35. Bottarge a delicate Dish prepared at Corfu made of the Roes of Sturgeon 97. Also at Xante 99. Bouchadde Tenedos so called by the Turks 91. Bouchourt see Trachana Boynak a Town in Tartary 108. Brak the Authors Companion sold by the Semkal-Tartars for 3 years and then by Reversion to return to his first Patron 234. His Wife ravished by the Tartars in presence of the Company 210. She becomes the Prince of Scemkals Concubine 234. She hinders her husband for going away ibid. He goes away privately and was never heard of since ibid. Butriato a famous place for Fishing 97. C. CAback vide Kaback Cabo Verdo Islands 5. seqq Caffers th' Inhabitants of Sierra Liones so called 9. Calmuc Tartars an ougly People 174. described ibid. Cambodiers several of them taken in a Junk freighted with prohibited Goods and by the Loving Kindness of the Hollanders turned adrift in a Boat without Rudder Sail Oars or Provision being but 40. Dutch Leagues from Land 45. The same Junk perishes upon the Rocks before the Fort Zelandia 55. Candia described 100. seqq Caspian Sea described 122 224. Caswin a famous Town formerly the Royal Seat of the Kings of Persia 304. Cavear whereof made 199. Vsed in stead of Butter during the Fast in Moscovia ibid. Casan a City and Countrey in Russia described 177 seqq 166. Cephalonia Insul 98. Cerigo an Island lying about 13 Dutch leagues from Candia 99 100. Chalse Schuran or Dipping of the Cross a Ceremony used by the Armenians 248. Children put to death at Madagascar and why 19. Chioggio a City in Italy opposite to Venice famous for Fishing and Gardens 73. Chrysolodos his Tomb in the Isle of Pathmos 79. Churches in the City Moscou computed to be in number above 1700. 135. Circas Tartars the Bounds of their Countrey 204. Their Persons described ibid. The Women great beauties ibid. Go with naked Brests 205. Their emulation in Habit and freedom to converse with Strangers ibid. The Religion of the Circas Tartars and their Idolatry ibid. Their Funerals 206. Circumcision used at Madagascar 21. Cochino formerly called Ephestias and then the chief Town of Lemnos 91. Colomna a beautiful Village in Moscovia 125 158. Communion in the Russian Church how 154. Condea a Town in Lemnos 91. Congo a good Corps du Garde and Lanthorn for the Christians to enter the Archipelago 100. Corfu an Island of great strength 96. Cosac Krim an exceeding high Mountain 173. Cosacks their Division and Limits 183. Cothany a Town in Media 238. Crap a Root used in Dying 222. Crim or Cerem Tartars their Customs Nature and Idolatry 163. Ceremonies about the Dead usual Habits and Marriages 164. Crocodiles used for Medicine at Syam 29. Cusmademianski a City upon the Wolga Czar of Moscovy sends to Amsterdam for Seamen 114. Whence and Why he is called Czaar 155. His Power and Soveraignty ibid. His Title ibid. His Revenues and strictness of Justice 156. D. DAgestan a Countrey of the Tartars subject to several Princes and Lords 210. Dagestan Tartars why so called 2â—7 The nature form and way of Living of the Inhabitants ibid seqq More mercifull than the Calmucs 234. Date-Trees how procreated 341. Delos an Island in the Aegean Sea famous for the many Temples and Relicts of Heathenish Antiquities 110. Den Duyvel van TAYOVAN an Animal in Formosa so called by the Hollanders 56. Derbent the Key of Persia on the Hyrcan Sea 225. The Ruins and Relicts of the Walls thereof built by Alexander the Great 226. Watch Towers and great Slave-market at Derbent 227. Slaves unkindly used at Derbent 228. Dian Manans an imagined Deity among the Madagascars Dick Kop A small Fish of a wonderfull strength 225. Don a River formerly Tanais whence the Don Cosacks runs not into the Wolga according to the vulgar opinion 194. Dwino 136. Dydenof a Town and Wharf on the Volga 158. E. EArth-quakes frequent at Xante 99. Zantotini 107. 2 great Earth-quakes at Zantorini ibid. Several Earth-quakes at Scamachi where by one 80000 Men were destroyed Mountains and Villages removed c. 240. Easter how celebrated by the Moscovians 158. Elephants used for Executioners at Syam 47. Served in Gold 32. Wars about the white Elephant 33. A merry passage about an Elephant 63. Embro insul The English take Saint Helena 355. And the Ship Europa a Dutch East-India Ship ibid. Also the Admiral and Vice-Admiral 358. Enkurekan a venemous creature like a spider but bigger than a mouse 311. Epiphany celebrated by the Armenian Christians at Ispahan 325. Ervan or Urwan a City under Mount Ararat in Armenia 213. F. FAsts four solemn Fasts in the year in Russia and the great Prophaneness therein committed 154. Ferrara a Town in Italy 73. Firando in Japon 59. Flax a great Commodity in Moscovia 135. Formosa Insul it's Situation Clime and Circumference 55. Fertility and Products ibid. Form and complexion of the Inhabitants 56.57 A Man with a Tail burn'd at Formosa ibid. Habit of Men and Women there 58. Furrs a great Profit to the Great Duke of Moscovia 138. G. GAmeron or Bendar in Persia described 349. Garlick and Onions much used in Russia 137. Garrisenda a Tower in Bologne built crooked for a Proof of Art 72. Genua described 3. Gilan an eminent place for Silk 223. The Bay of Gilan it's compass 224. Greece described 92. Custome and usual Attire of the Inhabitants 92 93. Grotta Sybilla 70. H. HAdzi Biram Aly a rich Merchant in Persia buys the Author 229. The Author saves him from drowning ibid. His great kindness to the Author 230. Hardiness of the Russians in extremities 137 138. Hares in great abundance about Cothany 238 St. Helena Insul 63. Hemp a main Product and the staple Commodity in Moscovia 301. Het Hups te Gennip the Ship on board of which the Author was in great danger 66. Honey found in great plenty at Milo 111. And in Moscovia 135. Hosleyn a Persian Saint and Second Son to Aly a Feast celebrated to the memory of him 263 Hunting a main exercise in Formosa 59. I. St JAge Insul Situation 6. and Description 7. Japoneezes their Form Nature Habit and Customs c. 62. Ilha del Fuego 7. Ilha de Brava 8. Indrapoura Insul 24. Ispahan described 315. Judia the chief City of Syam described 27. K. Kabacks ' Alehouses or Taverns in Moscovia farmed of the
the Sepulchre of an Emperour and 70 Kings 173. Sattiry Boggere an Island at the Mouth of the Wolga taken in by the Cosac Rebells 173. The Rebells erect there a Watch-Tower 185. Sauceages of Bologne how made 72. Savona flu 72. Scabaran a Cape in the Caspian Sea 224. Item a City in Media famous for Rice 237. Scalimene Lemnos so called 91. Scamachi or Sumahi a famous Mart in Media it's Situation 238. Described 239. Very subject to Earth-quakes ibid. Scirwan an eminent Place for great plenty of Silk 2â—3 Scorpions very annoysom at Kaschan 311. Scyro Insul 110. Sierlan an Island 203. Sierras or Scyras described 331. Skorodom a part of Moscou so called 135. Slave market at Ervan 213. At Derbent 238. Slaves how unjustly used by the Turks 80. How used at Derbent 228. And in Moscovia 138. Smeriglio a blackstone of great esteem found at Nicsia 109. Smiowa a Mountain 173. Smolensko 136. Spoon meat much used in Russia 137. Stampalia or Astypalaea one of the Cyclid Islands 109. Standia the Rendevous of the Venetians 103. Stariza taken in by the Cosacks and 1200 Soldiers kill'd 194. Stenko or Stephen Radzin see Radzin Storm at Sea near Xante 74. Sultan of Derbent very favourable to the Hollanders 233. Sultanie a famous Town in Persia described Swiatki 166. Syberia a woody Countrey in Moscovia famous for Furrs 136. The Place of exile for Men that beat their Wives too much 140. T. TAfflis a City in Georgia 249. Taurus Mount. 299. Teil-tree see Linden tree Temple of Jerusalem at Moscou 134. Of Appollo it's Ruins 109. Tenedos besieged by the Venetian Armade and surrendred upon Articles 91. Described ibid. Besieged again by the Turks but in vain 104. Tenos the Castle blown up with its own Powder 110. Terky a Moscoviam City its Situation and present condition 203. Terra Lemnia or Sigillata 92. Torstok a River and City in Moscovia 126. Tobacco coveted by the Russians 126. Forbidden by Proclamation to be smoked 140. Tortoises in great abundance at Balharu in Persia 283. At Ascension Island 358. Trachana and Bouchort two sorts of Bread made at Mytilene very durable 109. Troy the Remnant of that famous City 78. The Author taken in a Vineyard near Troy and made slave by the Turks Tweer a City in Moscovia 126. Tzanle a beautifull Town in Persia 284. Tzawaar a Place in Persia where every one is to show a Pasport 282. Tzornoyar a City in Russ-Tartary 176. Tzurbag oppid 203. V. VIathe its Sterility but abundance of Furrs Honey and Fish 136. Volske a Province in Moscovia rich of Furs 136. Ustioga a Province in Moscovia famous for plenty of Fish and Cattel 137. W. WAter consecrated by the Armenian Christians 248. Wax a great Commodity in Moscovia 135. Whirlpools in the Caspian Sea 222. Whore-market at Caswin in Persia 305. Wildgeese and Pelicans in great abundance about the Caspian Sea 201. Wolf baiting at Moscou 129. Great multitudes of those Beasts near Colomna in Moscovia 161. Wolmar oppid described 118 119. Wolodomir a fertile countrey in Russia 136. Wood A Wood in Syberia whose end cannot be found out 137. X. XAnte an Island affoarding great plenty of wine 74. Many Earth-quakes on that Island 99. Great scarcity of Water ibid. Z. ZAntorini an Island subject to Earthquakes and Meteors 107. Wine very cheap on this Island 107. The Author left ashoar and in great peril of being taken ibid. Zelandia a Fort in East-India 63. Zemschi Precaus a Place in Russia where any person that is found Dead is brought and exposed to public view 150. Zide Tzaybrail taken up and canonised after he had bin dead 100. years 215. His Sepulchre described 290. The Revenues of the same 296. Zierlan or Tzierlan an Island on the Caspian Sea 203. Zouaschi a Nest of Turkish Pyrats 107. Taken by Lazaro Mocenigo ibid. ERRATA PAg. 117. l. 3. read and shave all their Hair except p. 52. l. 12. before ibid. l. 20. steel p. 3. l. 27. about ibid. valleys 45.18 with p. 71. l. 20. Gratitude left p. 153. l. 30. for than read thou If any thing else occurr that may obscure the sence which by reason of my absence from the Press happens in some places the Reader I hope will either be pleased to pardon or amend with the Pen as also the Literal Errors which my leisure at this time will not permit me to rectify NB. The Book-binder may also please to take notice that the Print of the Massacre of Astrachan may be more fittly placed at pag. 373. than before the Narrativs according to the Directions given after the Elenchus in the fore part of the Book * Blancan in Chronol Mathem * Erasm de Utilit Colloqu * Martial in his 10th Book of Epigrams DEC 1647. Set sail from Texel January 1648. FEBR. 1648. Storm at Sea Arrival de Genua Description of Genua Genua Velez Malaga JUNE 164â— Arrival at Boa Vista Description of the Sale Islands The Island Majo JULY 1648. The Island Majo * A kind of Sea-bream St. Jago Ilha del Fuogo JULY 1670. JULY 1648. JUNE 1648. The King of Sierra Liones fettered and threatned to be hanged The houses of the Caffers pillaged and their Orchards Spoil'd Description of Sierra Liones * A kind of plant called also Milium and Hyrsi bearing a multitude of small grains from whence it hath that name SEPT 164â— Arrival at Madagascar or sas it is by some called S. Laurence OCTOâ— 1648. The Death of Mr. John Benning Captain of the St. Bernard Tumults thereupon Both the Ships rea-ady to sight Voogt yields and goes aboard is clapt into Fetters Result of the Council of War concerning the Officers and Ships-folk * Perhaps Porcupines which are of late grown common in Europe Why an Apt Commit a Rape The Inhabitants their Nature Garb and Posture Their Houses Their Habit and Attire Their Marriages Their Funerals Impious cruelty over their Children Their Religion Their Circumcision * An Assagay as themselvs call it is a kind of dart about 5 or 6 foot long Their Government and Policy The manner of their Treating about Peace MAR. 1649. JAN 1650. The Ships surrendred to the Dutch Arrival at Siam The Kingdom of Siam described Judia Custome-Houses * Fifteen making a degree it follows that 3 Dutch miles must be 12 English land miles or four Leagues at Sea Soil and Fertility of Siam Fish The great value of Scate Skins Crocodiles used for Medicine Malefactors severely punished Stately Throne of the King Great plenty of Gold The Elephants served in Gold and Silver Of their Wars Quicquid delirant reges plectuntur Achivi Revenues of the King of Siam The devour zeal of the Kings of Siam in erecting of Pagods Religious Houses-and Temples Soldiers without Pay and used as Slaves The Condition of the Citizens * Dutch Tuns without dispute * Which are their Ghostly Languages as Arabic in the Alâ—oran and Latin att Mass * For that were not consistent with Money catching in
thâ— Mountains of Elwind which reach as far as Babylon or Bagdet as is now called This City is about 6 English Miles in circuit and hâ— bin formerly the Residence of the King and Court of Persia bâ— since the same was translated to Ispahan it has continually run to decay and dayly looses it's glory The Walls and Fortifications whicâ— seem to have bin very strong lie buried in their Rubbish and unrâ—paired for that this City lies far within the Persian Dominions anâ— dreads not any sudden Irruption as those that lie on the Confines aâ— ever fearfull of and therefore either without any Fortifications at alâ— to the end they may not prove a Check if once invested and take in by the Enemy or else so strongly munited that they may resâ— a durable Siege and another reason why the City Caswin fears nâ— Forreign Invasion is the Strength of the Inhabitants who are â— numerous that upon occasion they can make up a mighty Army Thâ— Houses are as most other Towns in Persia mostly built of Briâ— which is only hardned in the Sun so that without they appear witâ— no Statelyness or Magnificency but within neatly painted with Coâ—partments and Foliage The Streets are not paved as in other Places so that when it is windy they are not passable for the Dust that fliâ— about which besides the aptness it has to hurt ones Eies is no smaâ— annoyance to those who are apparreled in a gay Garb. In this City Schach Tamas kept his Court as also his Son Ismaël who built that Magnificent Palace before the Maydan which stilâ— remains as a lasting monument of that puissant Monarch and thâ— Footsteps of a glorious Court which had not the Unthankfullnesâ— of the Inhabitants been so great might have been there till this Daâ— The Gates are very high and stately the Roof and Walls within anâ— all laid with Tiles of Porceline and some of them embellished witâ— Flowers of Gold which are annealed or burned in as the Chineezes do from whom I presume they have that Art Within the Chamber and the several Appartments are divers curious carved works altogether Foliage Flowers and the like Right over against this Palace is a fair Garden or Paradise almost 2 English Miles in circuit planted with many Fruit-trees as Citrons Pomegranats Apples Pears Peaches Apricocks c. And on the outside round about pleasant Walks of Cedars and Cypress trees In this City are 2 Maydans On the one stands a Magnificent Hall full of Shops wherein are to be sold Jewels and many other things of value Near this Exchange is a place where they deal altogether in Living Jewels which are there to be had at as mean a Price as a Lurcher or Shock upon the Dog-market at Amsterdam these being such Jewels as we commonly call Girls of the Game Misses or Cracks and I know not what canting names they have now a days for such unnatural and sensual Prostitutes The Persians call them Cabbaha About Sun-set these are all brought out and set in a row by an old Woman they call Delal who officiates as a Broker Behind these young Females stand a parcel of old Women who have by them a Bolster a Quilt a Coverlet and a litle Lanthern in the Hand all Implements for the purpose Now so soon as any one coms to view the Merchandise these old Punks light the Candle unvail the Face and so going from one to another till he finds one he likes and then strikes a Bargain which done one of the old Women follows him with the Moveables on her Shoulder whithersoever he pleases and all with as litle shamefastness as if it were the most honourable Merchandise in the World On the East side of the City is the Common place of Sepulture where also lies interred the Body of Schach Besade the Son of Hosseyn By whose Tomb the Persians swear holding it for a most sacred Oath and consequently very hainous to violate and when one desires another to asseverate a matter will ask him If he dare swear by the Holy Grave In Caswin are 50 Churches which stand open every day and are frequented by those that go to pray but the great Metzid or Temple which they call Tzame is open one day in Four when there is alwaies a great Convent They have also many Baths in Caswin which are frequented from morning to night On the 9 th dito was their Easter at Caswin which they call Bairam or Biram del Carban which is only a commemoration of Abrahams Offering who as they say would have offered up his Son Ishmaël from whom they say Mahomet is descended by a direct line alledging that it was not Isaac as the Christians and Jews beleev and further that it was not a Ram that was offered in his stead but a She-camel Wherefore they alwaies lead a Camel thrô the streets for 3 daies together before this Feast adorning it with Garlands of Leavs and Flowers if there be any to be had and on the Festival slay it with many Ceremonies First comes the Mulla who is one skill'd in the Law and reads certain Passages out of the Alchoran when he is silent they play upon Trumpets Flutes and Drums In the mean while the Common-People run and crowd in to the Camel to get som of the Hair every one pulling as much as he can which is kept for Relicts and reputed good for Women in Childbed who cannot easily be delivered insomuch that the Beast is almost bare before he com to be Offered When they have led him 3 days about Town he is brought out of the City to a place thereto appointed where all the greatest Personages are present and immediately make a Ring The Beast being brought in one of the most eminent Persons runs him thrô with a Spear upon which all the People run with Hatchets Bills and Knives striving every one to get a piece which they carry home som boyling it and other preserving it till the year after reckoning it a certain and sure token of Happiness to that House where there is but a smal Morsel of this Camel Those who are slow or impotent must be content with the Entrails Skin and Blood which they gather up so clean that nothing of it appears upon the Place where the Sacrifice is done The whole night continues this Feast with Music Drinking and Banquetting CHAP. XXX Departure from Caswin Arrival at Saba and an account of the Condition of that Town The Earth red and barren by the Curse of Mahomet They arrive at Kom with a Description of that Place Melons of a very fragrant and lovely smell A strange kind of Cucumbers Khom the Staple for Weapons The People addicted to Thievery The Author's combat with a Greek Renegado Departure out of Khom Arrival at Kaschan It s Situation The People and their way of Living and Negotiation Noble Carawanseras or Houses of Entertainment Many Gold-and Silk-Cloth Weevers A sort of great and venemous