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A43535 A full relation of two journeys, the one into the main-land of France, the other into some of the adjacent ilands performed and digested into six books / by Peter Heylyn.; Full relation of two journeys Heylyn, Peter, 1600-1662. 1656 (1656) Wing H1712; ESTC R5495 310,916 472

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may call him the Justice in Eire of all his Majesties Forrests and waters The actions here handled are Thefts and abuses committed in the Kings Forrests Rivers Parks Fi●…hponds and the like In the absence of the grand Maistre the power of sentence resteth in the Les grand Maistres Enquesteurs et generaux reformateurs who have under their command no fewer then 300 subordinate officers Here also sit the Marshals of France which are ten in number sometimes in their own power and sometimes as Assistants to the Constable under whose direction they are With us in England the Marshalship is more entire as that which besides its own jurisdiction hath now incorporated into it self most of the authority antiently belonging to the Constables which office ended in the death of Edward Lord Duke of Buckingham the last hereditary and proprietary Constable of England This office of Constable to note unto you by the way so much was first instituted by Lewis the grosse who began his reign anno 1110. and conferred on Mr. Les Diguieres on the 24 of July 1622. in the Cathedrall Church of Grenoble where he first heard Masse and where he was installed Knight of both Orders And so I leave the Constable to take a view of his Province a man at this time beloved of neither parties hated by the Protestants as an Apostata and suspected by the Papists not to be entire To proceed 〈◊〉 the 28. we came unto Clermont the first Town of any note that we met with in Picardie a prety neat Town and finely seated on the 〈◊〉 of an hill For the defence of it it hath on the upper side of it an indifferent large Castle and such which were the situation of it somewhat helped by the strength of Art might be brought to do good service Towards the Town it is of an easie accesse to the fieldwards more difficult as being built on the perpendicular 〈◊〉 of a 〈◊〉 In the year 1615 it was made good by Mr. Harancourt with a Regiment of eight 〈◊〉 who kept it in the name of the Prince of Conde and the rest of that confederacy but it held not long for at the 〈◊〉 D' 〈◊〉 coming before it with his Army and Artillery it was ●…sently yeelded This war which was the second civill war which had happened in the reign of King Lewis was undertaken by the Princ●…s chi●…fly to thwart the designes of the Queen mother and crush the power●…ulnesse of her grand favourite the Marshall The pretence as in such cases it commonly is was the good of the Common-wealth the occasion the crosse marriages then consummated by the Marshall between the Kings of France and Spain for by those marriages they seemed to fear the augmentation of the Spaniards greatnesse the alienation of the affections of their antient allies and by consequence the ●…uine of the French Empire But it was not the ●…ate of D' Anire as yet to 〈◊〉 Two-years more of command and insolencies his 〈◊〉 allow'd him and then he tumbled This opportunity of his death ending the third civill war each of which his saulty greatnesse had o●…oned What the 〈◊〉 of his designes did t●…nd to I dare not absolutely d●…termine though like enough it is that they aimed further then at a private or a personall potencie for having u●…der the favour and countenance of the Q●…een mo●… 〈◊〉 himself 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the Kings ear and of his Councell he made a 〈◊〉 to get into his own hands an authority almost as unlimited as that of the old Mayre of the Palace For he had suppressed the liberty of the 〈◊〉 estates and of the soveraign 〈◊〉 removed all the officers and Counsellors of the last King ravished one of the Presidents of the great Chamber by name Mr. le Jay out of the Parliament into the prison and planted Garrisons of his own in most of the good Towns of Normandy of which Province he was Governour Add to this that he had caused the Prince of Conde being acknowledged the first Prince of the bloud to be imprisoned in the Bastile and had searched into the continuance of the lives of the King and his brother by the help of Sorcery and Witchcraft Besides he was suspected to have had secret intelligence with some forain Princes ill willers to the State and had disgraced some and neglected others of the Kings old confederates Certainly these actions seem to import some project beyond a private and obedient greatnesse though I can hardly believe that he durst be ambitious of the Crown for being a fellow of a low birth his heart could not but be too narrow for such an hope and having no party amongst the Nobility and being lesse gracious with the people he was altogether 〈◊〉 of means to compasse it I therefore am of an opinion that the Spanish gold had corrupted him to some project concerning the enlargement of that Empire upon the French dominion which the crosse marriages whereof he was the contriver and which seemed so full of danger to all the best Patriots of France may seem to demonstrate And again at that time when he had put the Realm into his third combustion the King of Spain had an Army on foot against the Duke of Savoy and another in the Countries of Cleve and Juliers which had not the timely fall of this Monster and the peace ensuing prevented it might both perhaps have met together in the midst of France But this only conjecturall CHAP. II. The fair City of Amiens and greatnesse of it The English feasted within it and the error of that action the Town how built seated and fortified The Citadell of it thought to be impregnable Not permitted to be viewed The overmuch opennesse of the English in discovering their strength The watch and form of Government in the Town Amiens a Visdamate to whom it pertaineth What that honour is in France And how many there enjoy it c. THat night we went from Clermont to a Town called Brettaul where we were harboured being from Clermont 6 French leagues and from Paris 20. Our entertainment there such as in other places as sluttish as inconvenient The next day being the 29 about ten of the clock we had a sight of the goodly City of Amiens A City of some four English miles circuit within the wals which is all the greatnesse of it for without the wals it hath houses few or none A City very capacious and for that cause hath been many times honoured with the persons and trains of many great Princes besides that once it entertained almost an whole Army of the English For King Lewis the 11. having made an advantagious peace with our Edward 4. and perceiving how ungratefull it was amongst the military men he intended also to give them some manner of satisfaction He sent therefore unto them 300 carts loaden with the best Wines and seeing how acceptable a present that had proved he intended also to feast them in Amiens
came from my pen but was corrected by the line and levell of my present Judgement And for such petit errors as then scaped my hands being they are but petit errors they may the more easily be pardoned by ingenuous men But howsoever being errors though but petit errors I hold it necessary to correct them and shall correct them in this order as they come before me Normandy bounded on the South with L'Isle de France Not with the Isle of France distinctly and properly so called occasioned by the circlings of the Seine and the Marne in which Paris standeth but by that part of France which is called commonly France Special or the Proper France as being the first fixed seat of the French Nation after their first entrance into G●…ul which notwithstanding may in some sense be called the Isle of France also because environed on all sides with some river or other that is to say with the Velle on the East the Eure on the West the O●…se on the North and a vein Riveret of the Seine on the South parts of it The name Neustria Not named so in the time of the Romans when it was reckoned for a part of Gallia Celtica as the words not well distinguished do seem to intimate but when it was a part of the French Empire and then corruptly so called for Westris signifying the West parts thereof the name of Westria or Westenrick being given by some to this part of the Realm of West France as that of Austria or Ostenric to a part of East France By the permission of Charles the Bald Not so but by the sufferance of Charles the S●…mple a weaker Prince and far lesse able to support the Majesty of a King of France For though the Normans ransacked the Sea coasts of this Countrey during the reign of Charles the Bald which lasted from the year 841 to the year 879. yet Charles the Bald was not so simple nor so ill advised as to give them livery and seifin of so large a Province That was a businesse fit for none but Charles the SIMPLE who began his reign in the year 900. and unto him the words foregoing would direct the Reader where it is thus told us of these Normans anno 900. they first seated themselves in France c. which relates plainly to the reign of Charles the Simple in the beginning whereof they first setled here though Rollo their chief Captain was not honoured with the title of Duke of Normandy untill 12 years after For the most part of a light and sandy mould mistaken in the print for a light and handy that is to say of a more easie tillage then the rest of those Kingdomes Which words though positively true of the Countrey of Norfolk are to be understood of Normandy comparatively and respectively to the rest of France for otherwise it would ill agree with the following words where it is said to be of a fat and liking soyle as indeed it is though not so far and deep as the Isle of France La Beause or many others of the Southern Provinces The French custome giving to all the sons an equality in the Estate which must be understood of the Estates of meaner and inferiour persons and not of those of eminent and more noble Families which have been altered in this point The Lands and Honours passing undivided to the eldest sons the better to support the dignity of their place and titles as many Gentlemen of Kent have changed their old tenure by Gavelkinde into Knights service for the same reason and obtained severall Acts of Parliament to make good that change For when Meroveus the Grandchilde of Pharamond so he is said to be by Rusener as eldest son of Clodian the son of Pharamond but Paradine the best Herald of all the French speaks more doubtfully of him not knowing whether he were the son or next kinsman of Clodian and others whose authority I have elsewhere followed make him to be the Master of the Horse to Clodian whose children he is said to have dispossessed of the Crown and transferred the same unto himself The reason of the name I could not learn amongst the people That is to say not such a reason of the name as I then approved of my conceit strongly carrying me to the Bellocassi whom I would fain have setled in the Countrey of La Beause and from them derived that name unto it But stronger reasons since have perswaded the contrary so that leaving the Bellocassi near Bateux in the Dukedome of Normandie we must derive the name of La Beause and Belsia by which it is severally called by the French and Latines from the exceeding beautifulnesse of that flourishing Province that which the Latines call Bellus in the Masculine and Bella in the Feminine Gender being by the the French called Bell and Beau as it after followeth Picardie is divided into the higher which containeth the Countreys of Calice and Bologne c. That Picardie is divided into the higher and the lower is a Truth well known though I know not by what negligence of mine they are here misplaced that being the lower Picardie which lyeth next the sea containing the Countreys of Calais and Bologne with the Towns of Abbeville and Monstreuille and that the higher Picardie which liethmore into the Land in which standeth the fair City of Amiens and many other Towns and Territories else where described Both these were born unto the King by Madam Gabriele for her excellent beauty surnamed La Belle Madam Gabriele is brought in here before her time and b●…ing left out the sense will run as currently but more truly thus Both these were born unto the King by the Dutch sse of Beaufort a Lady whom the King c. And for the children which she brought him though they are named right yet as I have been since informed they are marshalled wrong Caesar Duke of Vendosm being the eldest not the younger son And as for Madam Gabriele she was indeed the King best beloved Concubine one whom he kept not only for his private chamber but carried publickly along with him in the course of his wars Insomuch that when the Duke of Biron had besieged Amiens being then lately surprized by the Spaniards as before was intimated and was promised succours by the King with all speed that might be the King at last came forwards with Madam Gabriele and a train of Ladies to attend her which being noted by the Duke he cryed aloud with a great deal of scorn and indignation Behold the goodly succours which the King hath brought us A Lady in great favour but in greater power to whom the character was intended which by mistake is here given to the Dutchesse of Beaufort though possibly that Dutchesse also might deserve part of it When the Liturgie was translated into Latine by Doctor Mocket Not by him first translated as the words may intimate it having
strongest Town in Christendome for he took strong in that sense as we do in England when we say such a man hath a strong-breath These things consider●…d it could not but be an infinite happinesse granted by nature to our Henry V. that he never stopped his nose at any stink as our Chronicles report of him Otherwise in my conscience he had never been able to keep his Court there But that which most amazed me is that in such a perpetuated constancy of stinks there should yet be found so large and admirable a variety A variety so speciall and distinct that any Chymicall nose I dare lay my life on it two or three perambulations would hunt out blindfold each severall street by the smell as perfectly as another by his eye A Town of a strange composition one can hardly live in it in ●…he Summer without poisning in the Winter without miring For the buildings they are I confesse very handsomely and uniformely set out to the street-ward not unseemly in themselves and very sutable one with another High and perpendicular with windowes reaching from the top almost to the bottom The houses of the new mould in London are just after their fashion wherein the care and designe of our late Soveraign King James is highly to be magnifyed Time and his good beginnings well seconded will make that City nothing inferiour for the beauty and excellency of her structures to the gallantest of Europe insomuch that he might truly have said of his London what Augustus did of his Rome 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Urbem quem lateritiam inveni marmoream relinquo as Dion hath it But as London now is the houses of it in the inside are both better contrived and richlyer furnished by far then those of Paris the inward beauty and ornaments most commonly following the estate of the builders or the owners Their houses are distinguished by signes as with us and under every sign there is printed in Capitall letters what signe it is neither is it more then need The old shift of This is a Cock and this is a Bull was never more requifite in the infancy of painting then in this City For ●…o hideously and so without resemblance to the thing signified are most of these pencil-works that I may without danger say of them as Pseudolus in Plautus doth of the let●…er which was written from Phoenicium to his young master 〈◊〉 An 〈◊〉 hercle habent quoque gallinae manus nam has 〈◊〉 ●…ma scripsit If a hen would not scrape better portraitures on a dunghill then they have hanged up before their doors I would send to my Hostess of Tostes to be executed And indeed generally the Artificers of Paris are as slovenly in their trades as in their houses yet you may finde nimble d●…ncers prety fidlers for a toy and a Tayler that can trick ●…u up after the best and newest fashion Their Cutlers make such abominable and fearfull knives as would grieve a mans heart to see them and their Glovers are worse then they you would imagine by their Gloves that the hand for which they are made were cut of by the wrist yet on the other side they are very perfect at tooth-picks beard bru●…es and which I hold the most commendable art of them at the cutting of a seal Their Mercers are but one degree removed from a Pedler such as in England we call Chapmen that is a Pedler with a shop And for Goldsmiths there is little use of them glasses being there most in request both because neat and because cheap I perswade my self that the two severall ranks of shops in Cheapside can shew more plate and more variety of Mercery wares good and rich then three parts of Paris Merchants they have here but not many and they not very wealthy The river ebbs not and floweth not ●…igher then 75 miles or thereabouts and the boats which thence serve the City being no bigger then our Western Barges The principall means by which the people do subsist are the Court of the King most times held amongst them and the great resort of Advocates and Clients to the chambers of Parliament Without these two crutches the Town would get a vile halting and perhaps be scarce able to stand What the estate of some of their wealthyest Citizens may amount to I cannot say yet I dare conjecture it not to be superfluous The Author of the book entituled Les estat du monde reckoneth it for a great marvell that some of our London Merchants should be worth 100000 crownes we account 〈◊〉 estate among us not to be so wonderfull and may thence safely conclude that they who make a prodigie of so little are not worth so much themselves If you believe their apparell we may perhaps be perswaded otherwise that questionlesse speaketh no lesse then millions though like it is that when they are in their best clothes they are in the midle of their estates But concerning the ridiculous bravery of the poor Parisian take along with you this story Upon our first coming into Paris there came to visit a German Lord whom we met a ship-bord a couple of French Gallants his acquaintance the one of them for I did not much observe the other had a suit of Turkie grogram doubled with Taffeta cut with long slashes or carbonado's after the French fashion and belaied with bugle lace Through the openings of his doublet appeared his shirt of the purest Holland and wrought with curious needle-work the points at his waste and knees all edged with a silver edging his garters roses and hat-band sutable to his points a beaver hat and a pair of silk ftockins his cloke also of Turkey grogram cut upon black Taffeta This Lord for who would have dared to guesse him other applyed himself to me and perceiving my ignorance in the French accosted me in Latine which he spake indifferently well After some discourse he took notice of mine eyes which were then sore and sea-sick and promised me if I would call on him at his lodging the next morning to give me a water which suddenly would restore them to their strength and vigor I humbly thanked his Lordship for such an ineffable and immerited favour in the best complement and greatest obeisance I could devise It was not for nought thought I that our English extoll so muth the humanity of this people nay I began to accuse the report of envy as not having published the one half of their graces and affabilities Quantillum enim virtutum illarum acceperim And thus taking my leave of his Honor I greedily expected the next morning The morning come and the hour of visiting his Lordship almost at hand I sent a servant to fetch a Barber to come trim me and make me neat as not knowing what occasion I might have of seeing his Lady or his daughters Upon the return of the messenger presently followeth his Altitude and bidding me sit down in his chair he disburdened
great difficulty into Paris Their houses in that University Their strictness unto the rules of their order Much maliced by the other Priests and Fryers Why not sent into England with the Queen and of what order they were that came with her Our returne to Paris THe difference between an University and an Academie standing thus Those which lived in our Fathers dayes could hardly have called Orleans an University a School of Law being the name most fit for it At this time since the coming of the Jesuites that appellation may not misbecome it they having brought with them those 〈◊〉 of learning which before were wanting in it but this hath not been of any long standing their Colledge being not yet fully finished By an inscription over the gate it seemeth to be the work of Mr. Cagliery one of the Advocates in the Parliament of Paris a man of large practise and by 〈◊〉 of great 〈◊〉 and who having no childe but this Colledge is 〈◊〉 to intend the fastning of his estate upon it In this house do those of this order apply themselves to the study of good Letters in the pursuit whereof as the rest of this 〈◊〉 are they are good proficients and much exceed all other 〈◊〉 of Fryers as having better teachers and more leasure to learn That time which the other spent at high Masses and at their Canonicall hours these men bestowed upon their books they being exempted from these duties by their order Upon this ground they trouble not their heads with the crotchets of Musick nor spend their moneths upon the chanting out of their services They have other matters to imploy their brains upon such as are the ruin of Kingdoms and desolation of Countries It was the saying of Themistocles being requested to play a lesson on the Lute That he could not fidle but he could tell how to make a little Town a great City The like we may say of the Jesuites They are no great singers but are well skilled in making little Cities great and great ones little And certain it is that they are so far from any ability or desire this way that upon any of their solemn Festivals when their Statutes require musick they are faine to hire the singing men of the next Cathedrall As here upon the feast of their Patron St. Ignatius being the 21 of July they were compelled to make use of the voyces of the Church of St. Croix To this advantage of leasure is added the exact method of their teaching which is indeed so excellent that the Protestants themselves in some places send their sons to their Schools upon desire to have them prove exquisite in those arts they teach To them resort the children of the rich as well as of the poor and that in such abundance that wheresoever they settle other houses become in a manner desolate or frequented only by those of the more heavie and phlegmatick constitutions Into their Schooles when they have received them they place them in that forum or Classis into which they are best fitted to enter Of these Classes the lowest is for Grammar the second for Composition or the making of Theames as we call it the third for Poetry the fourth for Oratory the fifth for Greek Grammar and compositions the sixt for the Poesie and Rhetorick of that language the seventh for Logick and the eight and last for Philosophy In each of these Schooles there is a severall Reader or Institutor who only mindeth that art and the perfection of it which for that year he teacheth T●…t year ended he removeth both himself and Scholars with him into the Cl●…ssis or Schooles next beyond him till he hath brought them through the whole studies of humanity In this last forme which is that of Philosophy he continueth two years which once expired his Scholars are made perfect in the University of learning and themselves manumitted from their labours and permitted their private studi●…s Nor do they only teach their Scholars an exactnesse in those several parts o●… Learning which they handle but they also endevour to breed in them an obstinacy of mind and a sturdy eagernesse of spirit to make them thereby hot prosecutors of their own opinions and impatient of any contrary consideration This is it which maketh all those of their education to affect victory in all the controversies of wit or knowledge with such a violence that even in their very Grammaticall disputations you shall find little boyes maintaine arguments with such a fierie impatience that you would think it above the nature of their years And all this they performe freely and for nothing the poor Paisants son being by them equally instructed with that of the Noblest By this means they get unto their Society great honour and great strength honour in furnishing their Schooles with so many persons of ●…xcellent quality or Nobility of whom afterwards they make their best advantages f●…r their strength also As for those of the poorer sort they have also their ends upon them for by this free and liberall education of their children the common people do infinitely affect them besides that out of that ranke of their Scholars they assume such into their fraternity whom they finde to be of a rare wit and excellent spirit or any other way fitted for their profession Thus do they make their own purposes out of all 〈◊〉 and refuse no fish which either they can draw into their nets or which will offer it self unto them Si locuples quis est avari sunt si pauper ambitiosi quos non oriens non occidens satiaverit soli omnium opes atque inopiam pari affectu concupiscunt Galgacus a British Captain spake it of the Souldiers of the Romans Empire we may as justly verifie it of these Souldiers of the Romish Church they being the m●…n whom neither the West nor East-Indies can satisfie and who with a like servencie desire the education of the needy and the wealthy Moreover by this method of teaching they do not only strengthen themselves in the affections of men a broad but also fortifie themselves within their own wals at home for by this means there is not one of their society who hath not only perfectly concocted in his head the whole 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 of knowledge but hath gained unto himself the true art of speaking and a readinesse of expressing what he knoweth without the least demurre or haesitancie the greatest happinesse of a Scholar To conclude then and say no more of them and their rare abilities for virtus in hoste probatur it is thought by men of wisdome and judgement that the planting of a Colledge of J●…suites in any place is the onely sure way to reestablish that Religion which they professe and in time to eate out the contrary This notwithstanding they were at the first institution of them mightily opposed and no where more violently then in the University of Paris An University that standeth much
within half a league of which their Camp was lodged This entertainment lasted four daies each street having in it two long tables and each table being furnished with very plentiful provision Neither were they denied entrance into any of the Taverns and Victualling houses or therein stinted either in meats or drinks whatsoever was called for being defrayed by King Lewis An action wherein if mine opinion might carry it there was little of the politician For there were permitted to ●…nter into the Town so many at once of the English men that had they been but so minded they might easily have made themselves Masters both of the place and of the Kings person Nine thousand are reckoned by Comines to have b●…en within it together and most of them armed so that they might very easily have surprised the Gates and let in the rest of the Army Those of the French Kings Counsell much scared it and therefore enformed both Princes of the danger the one of his Town the other of his Honour But this jealousie was but a French distrust and might well have been spared the English being of that Generals minde who scorned to steal a victory and of that generous disposition that they would not betray their credits Nunquam illis adei ulla opportuna visa est victoriae occasio quam damno pensarent fides as the Historian of Tib●…rius If this City then escaped a sack or a surprisal it cannot be imputed to the wisdome of the French but to the modesty and fair dealing of the English But this was not the only soloecism in point of state committed by that great politick of his time King Lewis there never being man so famed for his brain that more grosly over-reached himself then that Prince though perhaps more frequently The buildings of this Town are of diverse materials some built of stone others of wood and some again of both The streets very sweet and clean and the air not giving pl●…ce to any for a lively pureness Of their buildings the principal are their Churches whereof there are twelve only in number Churches I mean parochial and besides those belonging to Religious houses Next unto them the work of most especial note is a great and large Hospital in method and the disposing of the beds much like unto the Hostel Dieu in Paris but in number much inferiour Et me ●…amen rapuerant and yet the decency of them did much delight me The sweetnesse and neatnesse of the Town proceeded partly as I said from the air and partly from the conveniency of the River of Some on which it is seated For the river running in one entire bank at the further end of the Town is there divided into six channels which almost at an equall distance run through the several parts of it Those channels thus divided receive into them all the ordure and filth with which the Town otherwise might be pester'd and affordeth the people a plentifull measure of water wherewith to purge the lanes and bie corners of it as often as them listeth But this is not all the benefit of these Channels they bestow upon the City matter also of commodity which is the infinite number of Grist-mils that are built upon them At the other end of the Town the Channels are again united into one stream both those places as well of the division as of the union of the Channels being exceeding well fortified with chains and piles and also with bulwarks and out-works Neither is the Town well fortified and strengthned at those passages only the other parts of it having enough of strength to inable them to a long resistance The ditch round about it save where it meeteth with the Citadell is exceeding deep and steepie the wals of a good height broad and composed of earth and stone equally the one making up the outside of them and the other the inside The Gates are very large and strong as well in the sinewie composition of themselves as in the addition of the Draw-bridge Suburbs this City hath none because a Town of war nor any liberal circuit of territory because a frontier Yet the people are indifferently wealthy and have amongst them good trading besides the benefit of the Garrison and the Cathedral The Garrison consisteth of 250 men 500 in all they should be who are continually in pay to guard the Citadel their pay eight Sols daily The Governor of them is the Duke of Chaune who is also the Lieutenant or Deputy Governour of the whole Province under the Constable their Captain Mr. Le Noyre said to be a man of good experience and worthy his place This Citadel was built by Henry 4. as soon as he had recovered the Town from the 〈◊〉 anno 1597. It is seated on the lower part of the City though somewhat on the advantage of an hill and seemeth in mine opinion better situate to command the Town then to defend it or rather to recover the Town being taken then to save it from taking They who have seen it and know the arts of fortification report it to be 〈◊〉 Quod nec Jovis ira nec ignis Nec 〈◊〉 ferrum nec edax abolere vetustas Nor am I able to contradict it For besides that it is a skill beyond my profession we were not permitted to come within it or to take a survey of it but at a distance As soon as we approached nigh unto it one of the Garrison proffer'd us the Musket a sufficient warning not to be too venturous So that all which I could observe was this that they had within themselves good plenty of earth to make their Gabions and repair their breaches With the same jealousie also are the rest of the Forts and Towns of importance guarded in this and other Countreys no people that ever I heard being so open in shewing their places of strength and safety unto strangers as the English For a dozen of Ale a foreiner may pace over the curtain of Portsmouth and measure every stone and bulwark of it For a shilling more he shall see their provision of powder and other munition And when that is done if he will he shall walk the round too A French crown fathometh the wals of Dover Castie and for a pinte of wine one may see the nakednesse of the blockhouses at Gravesend A negligence which may one day cost us dearly though we now think it not For what else do we in it but commit that prodigall solly for which Plutarch condemned Per●…les that is to break open all the pales and inclosures of our land to the end that every man might come in freely and take away our fruit at his pleasure Jealousie though a vice in a man towards his wife is yet one of the safest vertues in a Governor towards his 〈◊〉 and therefore I could wish that 〈◊〉 English man would in this particular borrow a 〈◊〉 of the Italian 〈◊〉 these souldiers which are 〈◊〉 in garrison for the defence
Prelates of France draw no small part of their introda The Parliament of this Countrey was established here by Lewis XII who also built that fair Palace wherein Justice is administred anno 1501. At that time he divided Normandy into seven Lathes Rapes or Bailiwicks viz. Roven Coux Constentin Caen Eureux Gisors and Alençon This Court hath Supreme power to enquire into and give sentence of all causes within the limits of Normandy It receiveth appeals from the inferior Courts of the Dutchie unto it but admitteth none from it Here is also Cour des Esl ux a Court of the generall Commissioners also for Taxes and La Chambre des Aides instituted by Charles VII for the receiving of his Subsidies Gabels Imposts c. The house of Parliament is in form quadrangular a very gratefull and delectable building that of Paris is but a Chaos or a Babell to it In the great hall into which you ascend by some 30 stoppes or upwards are the seats and desks of the Procurators every ones name written in Capital letters over his head These Procurators are like our Atturnies to prepare causes and make them ready for the Advocates In this Hall do suitors use either to attend on or to walke up and down and confer with their pleaders Within this hall is the great Chamber the tribunall and seat of justice both in causes Criminall and Civill At domus interior regali splendida luxu Instruitur As Virgill of Queen Did●…es dining roome A Camber so gallantly and richly built that I must needs confesse it far surpasseth all the rooms that ever I saw in my life The Palace of the Louure hath nothing in it comparable The seeling all inlaid with gold and yet did the workmanship exceed the matter This Court consisteth of two Presidents twenty Counsellors or Assistants and as many Advocates as the Court will admit of The prime President is termed Ner de Riz by birth a Norman upon the Bench and in all places of his Court ●…e taketh the prcedencie of the Duke of Longueville when there is a convention of the three Estates summoned the Duke hath the priority We said even now that from the sentence of this Court there lay no appeal but this must be recanted and it is no shame to do it St. Austin hath written his Retractations so also hath B●…rmine Once in the year there is an appeal admitted but that for one man only and on this occasion There was a poysonous Dragon not far from Roven which had done much harme to the Countrey and City Many wayes had been tryed to destroy him but none prospered at last Romain afterwards made a Saint then Archbishop of the Town accompanied with a theef and a murderer whose lives had been forfeited to a sentence undertaketh the enterprise upon fight of the Dragon the theef stole away the murderer goeth on and seeth that holy man vanquish the Serpent armed only with a Stole it is a neck habit sanctifyed by his Holinesse of Rome and made much after the manner of a tippet with this Stole tied about the neck of the Dragon doth the murderer lead him prisoner to Roven To make short work the name of God is praised the Bishop magnifyed the murderer pardoned and the Dragon burned This accident if the story be not Apocrypha is said to have 〈◊〉 on holy Thursday Audoin or Owen successor unto St. 〈◊〉 in memory of this marvellous act obtained of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the first he began his reign anno 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 time forwards the Chapitre of the Ca●… Church should every Ascension day have the 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 any malefactor whom the lawes had condem●… This that King then granted and 〈◊〉 the 〈◊〉 Kings even to this time have successively 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the ceremonies and solemnities wherewith this 〈◊〉 is taken from his irons and restored to liberty It is not above nine years agone since a Baron of Ga●…ne took occasion to kill his wife which done he fled hither into Normandy and having first acquainted the Canons of Nostre dame with his desire put himself to the sentence of the Court and was adjudged to the wheel Ascension day immediately coming on the Canons challenged him and the Judge according to the custome caused him to be delivered But the Normans pleaded that the benefit of that priviledge belonged only to the natives of that Province and they pleaded with such ●…ury that the Baron was again committed to prison till the Queen Mother had wooed the people pro ea saltem vice to admit of his reprievall I deferred to speak of the language of Normandy till I came hither because here it is best spoken It differeth from the Parisian and more elegant French almost as much as the English spoken in the North doth from that of London or Oxford Some of the old Norman words it still retaineth but not many It is much altered from what it was in the time of the Conqueror few of the words in which our lawes were written being known by them One of our company gave a Litleton's tenure written in that language to a French Doctor of the Lawes who protested that in three lines he could not understand three words of it The religion in this Town is indifferently poized as it also is in most places of this Province The Protestants are thought to be as great a party as the other but far weaker the Duke of Longueville having disarmed them in the beginning of the last troubles CHAP. IV. Our journey between Roven and Pontoyse The holy man of St. Clare and the Pilgrims thither My sore eyes Mante Pontoyse Normandy justly taken from King John The end of this Booke JUly the second we take our farewell of Roven better accommodated then we came thither yet not so well as I defired We are now preferred ab Asinis ad equos from the Cart to the Waggon The French call it a Coach but that matters not so they would needs have the Cart to be a Chariot These Waggons are the ordinary instruments of travell in those Countries much of a kin to Gravesend's barge You shall hardly finde them without a knave or a Giglot A man may be sure to be merry in them were he as certain to be wholesome This in which we travelled contained ten persons as all of them commonly do and amongst these ten one might have found English Scots French Normans Dutch and Italians a jolly medley had our religions been as different as our Nations I should have thought my self in Amsterdam or Poland if a man had desired to have seen a Brief or an Epitome of the World he would no where have received such satisfaction as by looking on us I have already reckoned up the several Nations I will now lay open the severall conditions There were then to be found amongst these ten passengers men and women Lords and serving men Scholars and Clowns Ladies and Chambermaids Priests and Laie-men Gentlemen and Artificers
I Have now done with the French both men and women a people much extolled by many of our English Travellers for all those graces which may enoble adorn both sexes For my part having observed them as well as I could and traced them in all their several humors I set up my rest with this proposition that there is nothing in them to be envied but their Countrey To that indeed I am earnestly and I think not unworthily affected here being nothing wanting which may be required to raise and reward ones liking If nature was ever prodigal of her blessings or scattered them with an over-plentiful hand it was in this Island into which we were entred as soon as we passed over the bridge of Pontoyse The first part of it which lasted for three leagues was upon the plain of a mountain but such a mountain as will hardly yeeld to the best valley in Europe out of France On both sides of us the Vines grew up in a just length and promised to the husbandman a thriving vintage The Wines they yeeld are far better then those of Normandy or Gascoyne and indeed the best in the whole Continent those of Orleans excepted yet what we saw here was but as a bit to prepare our stomachs lest we should surfeit in the valley Here we beheld nature in her richest vestiments The fields so interchangeably planted with Wheat and Vines that had L. Florus once beheld it he would never have given unto Campania the title of Cereris Bacchi certamen These fields were dispersedly here and there beset with Cherry trees which considered with the rest gave unto the eye an excellent object For the Vines yet green the Wheat ready for the fithe and the cherries now fully ripened and shewing forth their beauties through the vails of the leaves made such a various and delightsome mixture of colours that no art could have expressed it self more delectably If you have ever seen an exquisite Mosaical work you may the best judge of the beauty of this valley Add to this that the River S●…ine being now past Paris either to embrace that flourishing soyle or out of a wanton desire to play with it self hath divided it self into sundry lesser channels besides its several windings and turnings so that one may very justly and not irreligiously conceive it to be an Idea or representation of the Garden of Eden the river so happily separating it self to water the ground This valley is of a very large circuit and as the Welch men say of Anglesey Mon mam Gy●…e id est Anglesey is the mother of Wales so may we call this the mother of Paris For so abundantly doth it furnish that great and populous City that when the Dukes of Berry and Bargundy besieged it with 100000 men there being at that time 3 or 400000 Citizens and Souldiers within the ●…ls neither the people within no●… the enemies without found any want of provision It is called the Valley of Montmorency from the Town or Castle of Montmorency seated in it but this town nameth not the Valley only It giveth name also to the ancient family of Dukes of Montm●… the 〈◊〉 house of Christendome He stileth himself L●… primier Christien plus viel Baron de France and it is said that his ancestors received the Faith of Christ by the preaching of St. Denis the first Bishop of Paris Their principal houses are that of Chantilly and E●…quoan both seated in the Isle this last being given unto the present Dukes Father by King Henry 4. to whom it was confiscated by the condemnation of one of his Treasurers This house also and so I leave it hath been observed to have yeelded to France more Constables Marshals Admirals and the like officers of power and command then any three other in the whole Kingdome Insomuch that I may say of it what Irenious doth of the Count Palatines the name of the Countrey only changed Non alia Galliae est familia eui plus debeat nobilitas The now Duke named Henry is at this present Admiral of France The mosteminent place in all this Isle is Mont-martre eminent I mean by reason of its height though it hath also enough of antiquity to make it remarkable It is seated within a mile of Paris high upon a mountain on which many of the faithfull during the time that Gaule was heathenish were made Martyrs Hence the name Though Paris was the place of apprehension and sentence yet was this Mountain commonly the scaffold of execution it being the custome of the ancients neither to put to death nor to bury within the wals of their Cities Thus the Jewes when they crucified our Saviour led him out of the City of Hierusalem unto Mount Calvarie unto which St. Paul is thought to allude Heb. 13. saying Let us therefore go forth to him c. Thus also doth St. Luke to omit other instances report of St. Stephen Act. 7. And they cast him out of the city and stoned him So in the state of Rome the Vestall Virgin having committed ●…ornication was 〈◊〉 in the 〈◊〉 s●…leratus and other malefactors thrown down the Tarp●…an rock both situa●…e without the Town So also had the Thessalians a place of execution from the praecipice of an hill which the called the 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or Co●…i whence arose the proverb 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 be hanged As they permitted not executions of malefactors within their wals so neither would they suffer the best of their Citizens to be buried within them This was it which made Abraham to buy him a field wherein to bury his dead and thus we read in the 7. of Luke that the widow of Naims son was carried out to be buried This custome also we find amongst the Athenians Corinthians and other of the Grecians Qui in agris suis as saith Alexander ab Alexandro aut in fundo subu●…bano seu in avito patrio s●…lo corpora ●…umari consuevere Amongst the R●…mons it was the fashion to burn the bodies of the dead within their City This continued till the bringing in of the Lawes of Athens commonly called the Lawes of the 12. Tables one of which Lawes runneth in these words In urbe ne sep●…lito n●…urito After this prohibition their dead corps were first burned in Campus Martius and their urnes covered in sundry places in the fields The frequent urnes or sep●…al stones digged up amongst us here in England are sufficient testimonies of this assertion Besides we may finde in Appian that the chief reason why the rich men in Rome would not yeeld to that Law called Lex Agraria or the Law of dividing the Roman possessions equally among the people was because they thought it an irreligious thing that the Monuments of their forefathers should be sold unto others The first that is registred to have been buried in the City was Trajan the Emperour Afterwards it was granted as an honourary to such as had
There appeared unto us the resemblance of Orpheus playing on a 〈◊〉 Viall the trees moving with the force of the musick and the wilde beasts dancing in tw●… rings about him An invention which could not but cost K Henry a great sum of money one only string of the fidle b●…ing by mi●…chance broken having cost King Lenis his so●… 〈◊〉 Liv●… Upon the opening of a double leaved d●…or 〈◊〉 were exhi●…d to us divers representations and 〈◊〉 which certainly might have been more gracefull if they had not so much in them of the puppet play By some step●… more we 〈◊〉 into the Garden and by as many more into a 〈◊〉 which opened into the water side in which the goodliest fl●…wer and most pleasing to my eyes was the statua of an horse in brasse of that bigness that I and one of my companions could stand in the neck of him But dismounting from this horse we mounted our own and so took our leaves of St. Germain On the other side of Paris and up the river we saw an other of the Kings houses called S●… Vincent or Vincennes It was beautified with a large part by Philip Augustus anno 1185. who also walled the Park and replenished it with Deer In this house have dyed many famous personages as Philip the fair Lewis Hutin and Charles the fair but none so much to be lamented as that of our Henry V. cut down in the flower of his age and middest of his victories a man most truly valiant and the Alexander of his times Not far from thence is an old Castle once strong but time hath made it now unserviceable The people call it Chasteau Bisestre corruptly for Vincestre which maketh me believe it was built by the English when they were masters of this Isle CHAP. IV. Paris the names and antiquity of it The situation and greatnesse The chief strength and Fortificat●…ons about it The streets and buildings King James his laudable care in beautifying London King Henry the fourths intent to fortifie the Town Why not actuated The Artifices and wealth of the Parisians The bravery of the Citizens described under the person of a Barber NOw we are come unto Paris whither indeed I should have brought you the same day we came from Pontoyse It hath had in diversages two severall names the one taken from the people the other from the situation the name taken from the people is that of Paris J. Caesar in his Commentaries making mention o●… the Nation of the Paristi and at that time calling this City Urbem Parisio●…um Ammianus Marcell●…nus calleth it by the same appellative for as yet the name of Paris was not appropriated unto it As for these 〈◊〉 it is well known that they were a people 〈◊〉 Gallia Celtica but why the people were so called hath been questioned and that deservedly Some derive them from a son of Paris the son of Priam but the humour of deriving all nationall originations from Troy hath long since been bissed out of the Schoole of Antiquity The Berosus of John Annius bringeth them from one Paris King of the Celtae and his authority is alike authenticall The bastards which this Annius imposed upon the Antient writers are now taught to know their own father Others deduce it from 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 a Greek word importing boldnesse of speech which is approved by William of Breton in the first book of his Phillipiades Finibus egressi patriis per Gallica rura Sedem quaerebant ponendis moenibus aptam Et se Parisios dixerunt nomine Graeco Quod sonat expositum nostris audacia verbis Leaving their native soil they sought through Gaul A place to build a City and a wall And call'd themselves Parisians which in Greek Doth note a prompt audacity to speak It is spoken of those Gaules who coming out of the more Southern parts here planted themselves Neither is it improbable that a Gallick nation should assume to it self a Greek name that language having taken good footing in these parts long before Caesars time as himself testifyeth in his Commentaries How well this name agreeth with the French nature I have already manifested in the character of this people both men and women But I will not stand to this etymologie The names of great Cities are as obscure as those of their founders and the conjecturall derivations of them are oftentimes rather plausible then probable and sometimes neither As for the antiquity of it it is said to be built in the time of Amasia King of Judah but this also is uncertain the beginnings of antient Cities being as dark and hidden as the reasons of their names Certain it is that it is no puisnè in the world it being a strong and opulent Town in the dayes of Julius Caesar. The other name of this City which is indeed the antient and was taken from the situation of it is Lutetia from lutum dirt as being seated in an exceeding clammy and dirty soil To this also consenteth the abovenamed William of Breton in his said first Book of the Phillippiades saying Quoniam tunc temporis illam Reddebat palus terrae pinguedo lutosam Aptum Paristi posuere Lutetia nomen And since the Fens and clammy soil did make Their City dirty for that reasons sake The Town the name Lutetia did take As for the Etymologie of Munster who deriveth the name from Luens one of the Kings of the Celtae it may for ought I know deservedly keep company with that of Berosus already reci●…ed This name of Lutetia continued till the coming of the Franks into these parts who to endeer the nat●…on of the Parisii and oblige them the more faithfully to do them service commanded it for ever after to be called Paris But the situation of this Town gave it not only the name it gave it also as the custome of Godfathers in England a christning gift which is the riches of it and by consequence the preheminence In how delicate and flourishing a soil it is situate I have already told you in my des●…iption of the vally of Montmorencie where it standeth If you will believe Comines in the first book of his Histories he will tell you that Cest la citè que jamais ie veisse environneè de meilleux pais et plantureux of all the Cities which ever he saw it is environed with the best and fruitful'st Countrey The river of Seine is also no question a great help to the enriching of it for though it be not Navigable unto the Town yet it giveth free passage unto boats of an indifferent big burden into which the ships are unladen and so their commodities carryed up the water A profitable entercourse between the Sea and the City for the Merchants Of these boats there are an infinite company that plie up and down the water and more indeed as the said Comines is of opinion than any man can believe that hath not seen them It is in circuite as Boterus
is of opinion 12 miles Others judge it at 10. For my part I dare not guesse it to be above 8 and yet I was told by a French man that it was in compasse no lesse then 14 leagues within the wals an untruth bigger then the Town For figure it is circular that being according to Geometricians of all figures the most ca●…acious And questionlesse if it be true that Urbs non in moenibus sed in civibus posita est Paris may challenge as great a circuit as the most of Europe it being little inferiour to the biggest for the multitudes of her inhabitants Joyne the compasse and the populousnesse together and you shall hear the wisest of the French men say that Que ce qu'est l' ame a la raison el la prunelle a l' oeil cela mesme est Paris a la France Add to this the verdict of Charles V. who being demanded which he thought to be the biggest City of France answered R●…ven and being then asked what he thought of Paris made answer Unpais that it was a whole Countrey The Emperour did well to flatter Francis the first who asked him these questions and in whose power he then was otherwise he might have given men good cause to suspect his judgement The truth is that Paris is a fair and goodly Town yet withall it is nothing like the miracle that some men make it Were the figure of London altered and all the houses of it cast into a Ring I dare able it a larger and more goodly Town then Paris and that in the comparison it may give it at the least half a mile oddes For matter of strength and resistance certain it is that this City is exceeding well seated were it as well fortifyed It lyeth in a plain flat levell and hath no hils nigh unto it from which it can any way be annoyed and for the casting and making of rowling-trenches I think the soil is hardly serviceable If Art were no more wanting to the strength of it then Nature in mine opinion it might be made almost impregnable Henry IV. seeing the present weaknesse of it had once a purpose as it is said to have strengthned it according to the modern art of Fortifications But it went no further then the purpose He was a great builder and had many projects of Masonry in his head which were little for his profit and this would have proved lesse then any For besides the infinite sums of mony which would have be●…n e●…ployed in so immense a work wh●…t had this been in effect but to put a sword into the hand of a mad man The mutinies and sedition of this people have made it little inferiour to Leige or Gaunt the two most revolting Tow●…s of Europe And again the Bari●…adoes against the person of King Henry III. and the large resistance it made to himself being weak were sufficient to instruct him what might be expected from it by his successors when it should be strengthned and inabled to rebellion The present strength of the Town then is not great the wals being very weak and ruinous and those other few helps which it hath being little availeable for defence The beautiful lest part of the whole resistance is the ditch deep precipitate and broad and to say no more of it an excellent ward were there any thing else correspondent to it As for the Fort next unto St. Antonies gate called the Bastille it is in my conceit too little to protect the Town and too low to command it When Swords only and Pick-axes were in use and afterwards in the infancie of guns it did some service in the nature of a Fortresse now it serveth principally as a prison for those of the greater sort who will permit themselves to be ●…aken It is said to be built by the English when they were Lords of Paris and the vulgar are all of this opinion Others of the more learned sort make it to be the work of one of the Provosts of the City Du Chesne calleth him Hugues Aubriot in the time of Charles V. when as yet the English had nothing to do here The word Bastille in generall signifieth a Fortresse the article la prefixed before it maketh it a name and appropriateth it unto this building There are also two little turrets just against the gallery of the Louure on both sides of the Seine intended for the defence of the River though now they are little able to answer that intention they also are fathered on the English but how true I know not An other place I marked designed perhaps for a Rampart but imployed at this time only by windmils It is a goodly mount of earth high and capacious situate close unto the gate called St. Martins the most defensible part if wel manned of all Paris Thus is the strength of this Town as you see but small and if Henry IV. lay so long before it with his Army it was not because he could not take it but because he would not He was loath as Biron advised him to receive the bird naked which he expected with all its feathers and this answer he gave the Lord Willougbie who undertook to force an entry into it For the streets they are many of them of a lawfull and competent breadth well pitched under the foot with fair and large peble This paving of it was the work of Philip Augustus anno 〈◊〉 or there abouts before which time it could not but be miserably dirty if not unpassable As it now is the least rain maketh it very slippery and troublesome and as little a continuance of warme weather ●…inking and poisonous But whether this noisomenesse proceed from the nature of the ground or the sluttishnesse of the people in their houses or the neglect of the Magistrates in not providing a sufficiency of Scavengers or all I am not to determine This I am confident of that the nastiest lane in London is Frankincense and Juniper to the sweetest street in this City The antient by-word was and there is good reason for it I l ●…staint comme la fange de Pa●…is had I the power of making proverbs I would only change il destaint into il puit and make the by-word ten times more Orthodox I have spoken somewhat already of the Fortificatons of this Town but they are but trifles the only venome of the street is a strength unto it more powerfull then the ditches or the bulwark of St. Martins Morrison in his Itinerarie relateth how the Citizens of Prague in Bohemia were repairing the wals of their Town for fear of the Turkes but with all he addeth that if the stink of the streets kept him not thence there was no assurance to be looked for of the wals I know now not how true it is of that City I am sure it may be justly verified of this It was therefore not unjudiciously said of an English Gentleman that he thought Paris was the
Seguier and is by birth of the Nobility a●… all which are honoured with this office must be He hath as his assistants three Lieutenants the Lieutenant criminall which judgeth in matters of lise and death the Lieutenant civill which decideth causes of debt or trespasse between party and party and the Lieutenant particular who supplyeth their severall places in their absence There are also necessarily required to this Court the Proeureur and the Advocate or the Kings Solli●…itour and Attorney 12 Counsellours and of und●…r-officers more then enough This Office is said to have been 〈◊〉 in the time of Lewis the son of Charles the great In matters criminall there is app●…al admitted from hence to the Tournelle In matters civill if the sum exceed the value of 250 Livres to the great Chamber or Le grande Chambre in the Court of Parliament The Prov●…st of the Merchants and his authority was first instituted by Philip Augustus who began his reign anno 1190. His office is to conserve the liberties and indulgences granted to the Merchants and Artificers of the City to have an eye over the sales of Wine Corn Wood Cole c. and to impose taxes on them to keep the keyes of the Gates to give watchword in time of war to grant Past-ports to such as are willing to leave the Town and the like There are also four other Officers joyned unto him 〈◊〉 they call them who also carry a great sway in the City There are moreover 〈◊〉 to them in their proceedings the Kings Sollicitour or P●…cureur and 24 Counsellours To compare this Corporation with that of London the Pr●…st is as the Maior the Es●…evins as the Sheriffs the 24 Counsellours as the A●…dermen and the Procureur as the Recorder I omit the under-officers whereof there is no scarcity The place of their meetings is called L'●…stel de ville or the Guilde-ball The present Provost Mr. de Grieu●… his habit as also that of the 〈◊〉 and Counsel●…urs half red half skie coloured the City livery with a hood of the same This Provost is as much above the other in power as men which are loved commonly are above those which are feared This Provost the people willingly yea sometimes ●…ctiously obey as the 〈◊〉 of their liberties the other they only dread as the Judge of their liv●…s and the tyrants over their Estates To shew the power of this Prov●…st both for and with the people against their Princes you may please to take notice of two instances For the people against Philip d●… Valois anno 1349. when the said King desiring an Impost of one Livre in five Crowns upon all wares sold in Paris for the better managing of h●…s Wars against the English could obtain it but for one year only and that not without speciall letters reversall that it should no way 〈◊〉 their priviledges With the people anno 1357 when King John was P●…isoner in England and Charles the Daulphin afterwards the 〈◊〉 of that name labour●…d his ransome amongst the Parisians For then S●…phen Mar●…ll the Provost attended by the Vulgar 〈◊〉 not only brake open the Daulphins Chamber but sl●…w J●…hn de Conflans and Robert of Clermount two Marschals of France before his face Nay to add yet further 〈◊〉 to this he took his party-coloured hood off his head pu●…ting it on the Daulphins and all that day wore the Daulphins hat being a b●…own bl●…ck Pour signal de sa dictature as the token of his Dictatorship And which is more then all this he sent the Daulphin cloth to make him a Gowne and an Ho●…d of the City livery and compelled him to avow the massacre of his servants above nam●…d as done by his commandement Horrible insolencies Quam miserum est ●…um haec impune facere 〈◊〉 as Tully of Marcus Antonius The Arm●…s of this Town as also of the Corporation of the Provost and 〈◊〉 are Gules a Ship Argent a Chi●… p●…dred with flower de L●…ces Or. The seat or place of their assembly is called as we said L'h●…stell de ville or the Guld-hall It was built or rather finished by Francis the first 〈◊〉 1533. and since 〈◊〉 and repaired by Francis Miron once 〈◊〉 des Merchands and afterwards Privie 〈◊〉 to the King It standeth on one side of the Greve which is the publick place of execution and is built quadrangular wise all of free and polished stone evenly and orderly laid together You ascend by 30 or 40 steps fair and large before you come into the Quadrate and thence by severall staires into the severall rooms and Chambers of it which are very nearly contrived and richly furnished The grand Chastelet is said to have been 〈◊〉 by Julian the Apostata at such time as he was Governor of Gaul It was afterwards new built by 〈◊〉 Augustus and since repaired by Lewis XII in which time of 〈◊〉 the Provst of Paris kept his Courts in the Palace of the Louure To sight it is not very gratious what it may be within I know not Certain I am that it looketh far more 〈◊〉 a prison for which use it also serveth then a Town 〈◊〉 or seat of judgment In this part of Paris called Laville or the Town is the Kings Arcenal or Magazin of War it carryeth not any great face of majesty on the out-side neither indeed is it necessary such places are most beautifull without when they are most terrible within It was begun by Henry 〈◊〉 finished by Charles the ninth and augmented by Mr. De Rhosny great Master of the Artillery It is said to contain 100 field-pieces and their carriages as also Armor sufficient for 10000 horse and 50000 foot In this part also of Paris is that excellent pile of building called the Place Royall built partly at the charges and partly at the encouragement of Henry IV. It is built in forme of a quadrangle every side of the square being in length 72 〈◊〉 the materials 〈◊〉 of divers colours which makes it very pleasing though lesse durable It is 〈◊〉 round just after the fashion of the Royall Exchange in London the walks being paved under foot The houses of it are very fair and large every one having its Garden aud other out-lets In all they are 36 nine of a side and 〈◊〉 to be sufficient capable of a great retinue the Ambassadour for the estate of Venice lying in one of them It is 〈◊〉 in that place whereas formerly the solemn Tilting were performed a place famous and 〈◊〉 for the death of Henry II. who was here 〈◊〉 with the splinters of a Lance as he was running with the Earl of Montgomery a Scotish-man a sad and heavie accident To conclude this discourse of the Ville or Town of Paris I must a little wander out of it because the power and command of the Provost saith it must be so for his authoriis not confined within the Town He hath seven daughters on which he may exercise it Les sept filles dela Prevoste de
be a ditch parting it from the Province of La Beause La Beause hath on the North Normandie on the East the Isle of France on the South Nivernois and Berry and on the West the Countreys of Toureine and Lemaine It lyeth in the 22 and 23 degree of Longitude and 48 and 49 of Latitude taking wholly up the breadth of the two former and but parts only of each of the later if you measure it with the best advantage for length you will finde it to extend from la ferte Bernard in the North-west corner of it to Gyan in the South east which according to the proportion of degrees amounteth to 60 miles English and somewhat better for breadth it is much after the same reckoning The antient inhabitants of this Province and the reason of the name I could not learn amongst the people neither c●…n I finde any certainty of it in my books with whom I have consulted If I may be bold to go by conjecture I should think this Countrey to have been the seat of the Bellocassi a people of Gaule Celtick mentioned by Caesar in his Commentaries Certain it is that in or neer this tract they were seated and in likelihood in this Province the names ancient and modern being not much different in sense though in sound for the Francks called that which in Latine is Pulcher or Bellus by the name of Bel in the Mascuculine Gender Ben they pronounce it and Beau i●… it were Feminine so that the name of Bello cassi is but varied into that of Beause besides that Province which the Roman writers stile Bellovaci the French now call Beauvais wher 's Bello is also turned into Beau. Add to this that the Latine writers do term this Countrey Belsia where the antient Bello is still preserv'd and my conjecture may be pardoned if not approved As for those which have removed this people into Normandie and found them in the City of Baieux I appeal to any understanding man whether their peremptory sentence or my submisse opinion be the more allowable Haec si tibi vera videntur Dedemanus tausi falsa est 〈◊〉 contra The same night we came to Estampes a Town situate in a very plentisul and fruitful soyl and watred with a river of the same name stored with the best crevices It seemeth to have been a town of principall importance there being five wals and gates in a length one before another so that it appeareth to be rather a continuation of many towns together then simply one The streets are of a large breadth the building for substance are stone and for fashion as the rest of France It containeth in it five Churches whereof the principal which is a Colledge of Chanoins is that of Nostre dame built by King Robert who is said also to have founded the Castle which now can scarsely be visited in its 〈◊〉 Without the town they have a fine green medow daintily seated within the circlings of the water into which they use to follow their recreations At my being there the sport was dancing an exercise much used by the French who do naturally affect it And it seemeth this natural inclination is so strong and deep rooted that neither age nor the absence of a smiling fortune can prevail against it For on this dancing green there assembled not only youth and Gentry but age also and beggery Old wives which could not put foot to ground without a Crutch in the streets had here taught their feet to hoble you would have thought by the cleanly conveyance of their bodies that they had been troubled with the Sciatica and yet so eager in the sport as if their dancing daies should never be done Some there were so ragged that a swift Galliard would almost have shaked them into nakedness and they also most violent to have their carkasses 〈◊〉 in a measure To have attempted the staying of them at home or the perswading of them to work when they had heard the Fiddle had been a task too unwieldy for Hercules In this mixture of age and condition did we observe them at their pastime the rags being so interwoven with the silks and wrinkled browes so interchangeably mingled with fresh beauties that you would have thought it to have been a mummery of fortune As for those of both sexes which were altogether past action they had caused themselves to be carried thither in their chairs and trod the measure with their eyes The Inne which we lay in was just like those of Normandy or at the least so like as was fit for sisters for such you must think them Facies non omnibus una Nec diversa tamen qualem decet esse sororum All the difference between them lay in the morning and amongst the maid-servants For here we were not troubled with such an importunate begging as in that other Countrey These here had learned a more neat and compendious way of getting money and petitioned not our ears but our noses By the rhetorick of a posie they prevailed upon the purse and by giving each of us a bundle of dead flowers tacked together seemed rather to buy our bounties then to beg them A sweeter and more generous kinde of Petitioning then the other of Normandie and such as may seem to employ in it some happy contradiction For what else is it that a maid should proffer her self to be deflowred without prejudice to her modesty and raise to her future husband an honest stock by the usury of a kindness 〈◊〉 with these savours we took our leave of Estampes and the dancing miscellany jogging on through many a beautifull field of corn till we came unto Augerville which is six leagues distant A Town of which I could not 〈◊〉 nor hear of any thing memorable but that it was taken by Montacute Earl of Salisbury as he went this way to the siege of Orleans and indeed the taking of it was no great miracle the wals 〈◊〉 so thin that an arrow would almost as soon make a breach in them as a Canon The same fortune befell also unto Toury a place not much beyond it in strength or bigness only that it had more confidence as Savage an English Gentleman once said in the wals ofbones which were within it then in the wals of stones which were without it This Town standeth in the middle way betwixt Estampes and Orleans and therefore a fit stage to act a dinner on and to it we went By that time we had cleared our selves of our pottage there entred upon us three uncouth fellowes with hats on their heads like covered dishes As soon as ever I saw them I cast one eye on my cloak and the other on my sword as not knowing what use I might have of my steel to maintain my cloth There was great talk at that time of Mr. Soubises being in armes and I much feared that these might be some straglers of his Army and this I suspected by their countenances
salubritate ubertate 〈◊〉 non concedant But 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 betwixt the Towns is more happy Both 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the second river of note in their several Countreys 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 much unlike in their several cou●…s 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the wals of 〈◊〉 ●…d passing nigh unto 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 on a little 〈◊〉 and its homager divideth the 〈◊〉 Britains from the rest of the English The Loyre 〈◊〉 by the City of Tours and passing nigh to Aug●…ire ●…ted also up the land on a little river and one of its 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the modern B●…etagnes from the r●…st of the French Pos●… est in loco 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 ad flumen qu●…d 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 conjungitur muro satis firmo munita saith Mr. Camden of Worcester Orleans is seated on the like declivity of an hill hath its bridge well fortified with turrets and its wals of an equall ability of resistance Sed de●…us est ab incolis qui sunt num●… si humani ab aedificiorum n●…tore a templorum numero maxime a sede episcopali saith he of ours in general we shall see it fitly applyed to this in each particular The people of this town are not of the fewest no Town in France the capacity of it considered b●…ing more populous for standing in so delicate an air and on so commodious a river it inviteth the Gentry o●… Nobles of the Countrey about it to inhabit there and they accept it Concerning their behaviour and humanity certainly they much exceed the Parisians I was about to say all the French men and indeed I need not grudge them that Elogie which Caesar giveth unto those of Kent and verifie that they are omnium incolarum longe humanissimi my self here observing more courtesie and affability in one day then I could meet withall in Paris during all my abode The buildings of it are very suitable to themselves and the rest of France the streets large and well kept not yeelding the least offence to the most curious nosethrill Parish Churches it hath in it 26 of different and unequall being as it useth to be in other places Besides these it contains the Episcopal Church of St. Croix and divers other houses of religious persons amongst which St. Jacques of both which I shall speak in their due order Thus much for the resemblance of the Towns the difference betwixt them is this That Orleans is the bigger and Worcester the richer Orleans consisteth much of the Nobles and of sojourners Worcester of Citizens only and home dwellers And for the manner of life in them so it is that Worcester hath the handsomer women in it Orleans the finer and in mine opinion the lovliest of all France Worcester thriveth much on Clothing Orleans on their Vine-presses And questionless the Vine of Orleans is the greatest riches not of the Town only but of the Countrey also about it For this cause Andre du Chesne calleth it the prime cellar of Paris Est une pais saith he si heureuse si fecunde sur t●ut en vine qui on la dire l' un de premiers celiers de Paris These Vines wherein he maketh it to be so happy deserve no less a commendation then he hath given them as yeelding the best wines in all the Kingdome Such as it much griev'd me to mingle with water they being so delicious to the palat and the epicurism of the taste I have heard of a Dutch Gentleman who being in Italy was brought acquainted with a kinde of Wine which they there call Lachrymae Christi No sooner had he tasted it but he fell into a deep melancholy and after some seven sighs besides the addition of two grones he brake out into this pathetical ejaculation Dii boni quare non Christus lachrymatus esset in nostris regionibus This Dutch man and I were for a time of one minde insomuch that I could almost have picked a quarrell with nature for giving us none of this liquor in England at last we grew friends again when I had perceived how offensive it was to the brain if not well qualified for which cause it is said that King Lewis hath banished it his Cellar no doubt to the great grief of his drinking Courtiers who may therefore say with Martiall Quid tantum fecere boni tibi pessima vina Aut quid fecerunt optima vina mali This Town called Genabum by Caesar was reedified by Aurelian the Emperour anno 276. and called by his name Aure●…anum which it still retaineth amongst the Latines It hath been famous heretofore for four Councels here celebrated and for being the siege royal of the Kings of Orleans though as now I could not hear any thing of the ruines of the Palace The fame of it at this time consisteth in the University and its seat of justice this Town being one of them which they call Seiges presidiaux Now these Seiges Presidiaux Seats or Courts of Justice were established in diverse Ci●…ies of the Realm for the ease of the people anno 1551 or thereabouts In them all civil causes not exceeding 250 liv●…es in money or 10 livres in rents are heard and determined soveraignly and without appeal If the sum exceed those proportions the appeal holdeth good and shall be examined in that Court of Parliament under whose jurisdiction th●…y a●…e This Court here consisteth of a Bailly whose name is Mr. Digion of 12 Counsellors two Lieutenants one civil and the other criminal and a publick notary When Mr. Le Comte de St. Paul who is Governor or Lieutenant Generall of the Province cometh into their Court he giveth precedency to the Bailly in other places he receiveth it This institution of these Presidentiall Cou●…s was at first a very profitable ordinance and much ea●…d the people but now it is grown burthen some the r●…ason is that the offices are made salable and purchased by th●…m with a great deal of money which afterwards they wrest again out of the purses of the pesants the sale of offices drawing necessarily after it the ●…ale of justice a mis●… w●…ich is spread so far that there is not the poorest under fficer in all the Realm who may not saf●…ly say with the Captain in the 22 of the Acts and the 28. vers 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 with a great sum of mo●…y obtained I this freedome Twenty years purchase is 〈◊〉 to be no extraordinary rate and I have read that only by the sale of 〈◊〉 one of the Kings had raised in 20 ye●…rs 139 millions which amounteth to the proportion of seven millions yearly or thereabouts of all wai●…s to thrift and treasure the most unkingly In the year 1614 the King motioned the abolishing of the sales of this 〈◊〉 but it was upon a condition more prejudicial to the people then the 〈◊〉 for he desi●…d in lieu of it to have a greater imposition laid upon S●…lt and on the Aides which those who were Commissioners for the Commonalty would not admit of because then a common misery
unto that harmelesse monument of Christs sufferings the Crosse which is grown it seemeth so exorbitant that the Papists make use of it to discover an Hugonot I remember as I passed by water from Amiens to Abbeville we met in the boat with a levie of French Gentlewomen to one of them with that French as I had I applyed my self and she perceiving me to be English questioned my Religion I answered as I safely might that I was a Catholick and she for her better satisfaction proffered me the little crosse which was on the top of her beads to kisse and rather should I desire to kisse it then many of their lips whereupon the rest of the company gave of me this verdit that I was Un urai Christien ne point un Hugon●… But to proceed in our journall The same day we parted from Paris we passed through the Town of Luzarch and came to that of St. Loup The first famous only in its owner which is the Count of Soissons The second in an Abbey there situate built in memory of St. Lupus Bishop of Trios in Champagne These Townes passed we were entred into Picardie Picardie is divided into the higher which containeth the Countries of Calice and Boulogne with the Town Monstrevill and the lower in which are the goodly Cities of Amiens Abbeville and many other places of principall note The higher which is the lesser and more Northern part is bounded North and West with the English Ocean and on the East with Flanders and Artoys The lower which is the larger the richer and the more Southern hath on the East the little Country of Veromandys on the West Normandy and on the South the Countrey of Champagne In length it comprehendeth all the 51 degree of Latitude and three parts of the 50 extending from Calice in the North to Clermont in the South In breadth it is of a great inequality For the higher Picardie is like Linea amongst the Logitians which they desine to be longitudo sine latitudine it being indeed nothing in a manner but a meer border The lower is of a larger breadth and containeth in it the whole 24 degree of longitude and a fourth part of the 23 so that by the proportion of degrees this Province is 105 miles long and 25 broad Concerning the name of Picardie it is a difficulty beyond my reading and my conjecture All I can do is to overthrow the lesse probable opinions of other writers and make my self subject to that scoffe which Lactantius bestoweth on Aristotle Rectè hic sustulit aliorum disciplinas sed non recte fundavit suam Some then derive it from Piquon one forsooth of Alexander the greats Captains whom they fain to have built Amiens and Piquigni an absurdity not to be honoured with a confutation some from the Town of Piquigni it self of which mind is Mercator but that Town never was of such note as to name a Province others derive it from Picardus a fanaticall Heretick of these parts about the year 1300 and after but the appellation is far older then the man others fetch it from the Picts of Britain whom they would have to flie hither after the discomfiture of their Empire and Nation by the Scots a transmigration of which all Histories are silent this being the verdict of the best Antiquary ever was nursed up in Britain Picti itaque funesstissimo praelio debellati aut penitus fuerunt extincti aut paulatim in Scotorum nomen nationem concesserint Lastly some others derive the name from Pique which signifieth a Lance or a Pike the inventors of which warlike weapon the fathers of this device would fain make them In like manner some of Germany have laboured to prove that the Saxons had that name given them from the short swords which they used to wear called in their language Seaxon but neither truely For my part I have consulted 〈◊〉 for all the Nations and the I●…rarium of Ant●…nius for all the Towns in this tract but can find ●…one on which I may fasten any probable Etymologie All therefore that I can say is 〈◊〉 which R●…bert Bishop of Auran●…es in Normandy hath said before me and that only in the generall Quos itaque aetas nostra Picardos appelat verae Belgae dicendi sunt qui post modum in Picardorum nomen tra●…migrarunt This Countrey is very plenti●…ull of Corne and other grain with which it abundantly surnisheth Paris and hath in it more store of pasture and medow grounds th●…n I ●…lse saw in any part of France In Vines only it is defective and that as it is th●…ught more by the want o●… industry in the people then any inhability in the soil For inde●…d they are a people that will not labour more then they needs must st●…nding much upon their state and distance and in the carriage of their bodies savouring a little of the Spaniard whence Picarder to play the Picard is usually said of those who are lo●…ty in their looks or glu●…tonous at their tables this last being also one of the symptomes of a Picard The Governor of this Province is the D●…ke of Les Diguieres into which office he succe●…ded Mr. Luynes as also he did into that of the Constable Two preferments which he purchased at a deer rate having sold or abandoned that religion to c●…mpasse them which he had professed more then 60 y●…ars together an apostasie most unworthy of the man who having for so many years supported the cause of religion hath now forsaken it and thereby made himself gilty of the co●…ardise of M. Antonius Qui cum in desertores saevire debuerat 〈◊〉 sui exe●…t ●…us factus est But I ●…ear an he●…vier censure waiteth upon him the crown of immortality not being promised to all those which run but to those only which hold out till the end For the present indeed he hath augmented his honours by this office which is the principall of all France He hath place and command before and over all the Peers and Princes of the bloud and at the Coronation of the French Kings ministreth the oath when he entreth a City in state or upon the redition of it he goeth before with the Sword naked and when the King 〈◊〉 in an assembly of the three estates he is placed at 〈◊〉 Kings right hand He hath command over all his Majesties forces and he that killeth him is guilty of high treason He sitteth also as chief Judge at the Table of marble upon all suits actions persons and complaints whatsoever concerning the wars This Table de Marbre was wont to be continually in the 〈◊〉 hall of the Palais at Paris from whence upon the burnning of that hall it was removed to the Louure At this table doth the Admirall of France hold his Sessions to judge of trafick prizes letters of marts piracy and businesse of the like nature At this table judgeth also Le grand Maistre des eaues et forrests we
to have them tire in the middle way and so the remainder of the Stage was to be me●…sured by our own feet B●…ing weary of this trade I made bold to d●…smount the Postilion and ascended the trunk-horse where I sat in such a magnificent posture that the best Carrier in Paris might envie my felicity Behind me I had a good large Trunk and a Port mantle before me a bundle 〈◊〉 cloaks a cloak-b●…g and a parcell of boots sure I w●…s if my stirrups could poise me equally on both sides that I could not likely fall backwards nor ●…orwards Thus preferred I encouraged my companions who cast many an envious eye upon my prosperity And certainly there was not any of them who might not more justly have said of me Tuas un me●…lleur temps que le Pape then poor 〈◊〉 master did when he allowed him an Onion only for four dayes This circumstance I confesse might have well b●…n omitted had I not great example for it Ph●…p de Comines in the mi●…est of his grave and serious relation of the B●…tail of 〈◊〉 H●…rie hath a note much about this nature which gave m●… encouragement which is That himself had an old 〈◊〉 halfe 〈◊〉 and this was just my case who by chance thrust 〈◊〉 ●…ead into a pale of wine and dranke it off which made him lus●…er and fr●…sher that day then ever b●…fore but in that his horse had better luck then I had On the right hand of us and almost in the middle way betwixt Abbeville and Bologne we left the Town of Monstrueil which we had not leasure to see It seemeth dai●…tily sea●…ed ●…or command and resistance as being built upon the top and declivity of a hill It is well strengthned with B●…stions and Rampart●… on the outside hath within it a Garrison of 〈◊〉 Companies of Souldiers their Govern●…ur as I learned of one of the Paisants being called Lannoy And indeed it concerne●…h the King of France to look wel to the Town of Monstruell ●…s being a border Town within two miles of Artoys and especially considering that the taking of it would cut ●…ff all entercourse between the Countries of Bol●…gne and Calais with the rest of France Of the like importance also are the Towns of Abbeville and Amiens and that the French Kings are not ignorant of Insomuch that those two only together with that of St. Quintain being put into the hands of Philip D. of Burgundy to draw him from the party of the En●…sh were redeemed again by Lewis XI for 450000 crownes an infinite sum of money according to the standard of those times and yet it seemeth the King of France had no bad bargain of it For upon an hope only of regaining these Towns Charles Eal of Charaloys son to D. Philip undertook that war against King Lewis by which at the last he lost his life and hazarded his estate CHAP. V. The County of Boulonnois and Town of Boulogne by whom Enfranchized The present of Salt-butter Boulogne divided inte two Towns Procession in the low●…r Town to divert the Plague The forme of it Procession and the Letany by whom brought into the Church The high Town Garrisoned The old man of Boulogne and the desperate visit which the Author bestowed upon him The neglect of the English in leaving open the Havens The fraternity De la Charite and inconvenience of it The costly Journey of Henry VIII to Boulogne Sir Walt. Raleghs censure of that Prince condemned The discourtesie of Charles V. towards our Edward VI. The defence of the house of Burgundy how chargeable to the Kings of England Boulogne yeilded back to the French and on what conditions The curtesie and cunning of my Host of Bovillow WE are now come to the County of Boulonnois which though a part of Picardie disdaineth yet to be so accounted but will be reckoned as a County of it self It comprehendeth in it the Town of Boulogne Estaples and N●…uf-Chastell besides divers Villages and consisteth much of Hils and Vallies much after the nature of England the soil being indifferent fruitfull of Corne and yielding more Grasse then any other part of France which we saw for the quantity Neither is it only a County of it self but it is in a manner also a free County it being holden immediately of the Virgin Mary who is no question a very gracious Landladie For when King Lewis XI after the decease of Charles of Burgundy had taken in Boulogne anno 1477. as new Lord of the Town thus John de Serres relateth it he did homage without Sword or Spurs bare-headed and on his knee before the Virgin Mary offering unto her Image an heart of massie gold weighing 2000 crowns He added also this that he and his successors Kings after him should hold the County of Boulogne of the said Virgin and do homage unto her image in the great Church of the higher Town dedicated to her name paying at every change of a Vassall an heart of pure gold of the same weight Since that time the Boulonnois being the Tenants of our Lady have enjoyed a perpetuall exemption from many of those Tributes and Taxes under which the rest of France is miserably afflicted Amongst others they have been alwayes freed from the Gabell of Salt by reason whereof and by the goodnesse of their Pastures they have there the best butter in all the Kingdome I said partly by reason of their salt because having it at a low rate they do liberally season all their Butter with it whereas they which buy their Salt at the Kings price cannot afford it any of that deer commodity upon this ground it is the custome of these of Boulonnois to send unto their friends of France and Paris a barrell of Butter seasoned according to their fashion a present no lesse ordinary and acceptable then Turkies Capons and the like are from our Countrey Gentlemen to those of London As for the Town of Boulogne it is divided into two parts La haute Ville and La basse V●…lle or the high Town and the low Town distant one ●…rom the other above an hundred paces and upwards The high Town is seated upon the top of an hill the low Town upon the declivity of it and towards the Haven Or else we may divide it into other parts viz. the Town and the City the Town that towards the water and the City that which lyeth above it It was made a City in the reign of Henry II. anno 1553. at which time the City of Terovenne w●…s totally ruined by the Imperials and the Bishops seat was removed hither the Church of Nostre D●…me being made the Ca●…hedrall There came along hither upon the remove of the Bishop 20 Canons which number is here still retained their revenue being about 1000 Livres yearly As for the present 〈◊〉 his name is Pierre d' Armè his intrado 2000 Livres his Metropolitan he of 〈◊〉 The Town or as they call it the low Town is bigger