outside of the earth Palestina was farre distant from the Equinoctiall line which diuideth the World into equall parts And if Palestina were iust vnder that line yet that all the countries hauing the same Meridian should be the middest of the World as well as Palestina They answered that Dauid saith in his Psalmes In the middest of the World I will worke their saluation To which I replied that the middest of the World was there taken for the face and in the sight of the World so as none should be able to denie it Whereupon they grew angry and said that the Scripture must be beleeued in spite of all Cosmographers and Philosophers It had been vaine to dispute further with them there being not one learned man among these Greekes at Ierusalem And to say truth if you except the Greeke Ilands vnder the Venetians they haue few or no learned men For my part I neuer found in all the vast Empire of Ottoman any learned Greeke but onely one called Milesius who was after made Patriarke of Constantinople And these Greekes as in this point so in all other follow the literall sense of the Scriptures For which cause they also beleeue the corporall presence of Christ in the Sacrament And whereas Saint Paul saith Let the Bishop be the husband of one wife c. they so interpret it as if the Priests wife die within few dayes after his mariage yet he may neuer marry againe The Sorians are so called of Syria in which Prouince they liue hauing their owne Patriarke neither could they euer bee brought to consent to the Roman faith for whatsoeuer the Romanes challenge due to the Seat of S. Peter that they say rather belongeth to them in respect Saint Peter was Bishop of Anttoch They agreed with the Greekes in many things they denie Purgatorie they fast foure Lents in the yeere they permit their Priests to marrie they vse the Greeke tongue in their Diuine seruice and otherwise speake their owne language which I take to be the Arabian tongue In Ierusalem Church they keepe the Sepulchers of Ioseph of 〈◊〉 and of Nicodemus and in the Citie they keepe the house of Saint Marke noted with the figure 37. The Costi are Egyptians dwelling about Numidia They retaine the heresie of Arrius and follow the Ceremonies of the Abissines This I write vpon the report of the Italian Friers who are to be blamed if it be not true These in the Church keepe the Chappell wherein Godfrey and his Regall Family lye buried and the Caue vnder Mount Caluerie where they say the scull of Adam lies and haue also their proper Altar vpon Mount Caluarie The Abissines inhabit the South parts of Africk and they are subiect to their King Preti-Giani They receiued the Christian faith of the Eunuch baptized by Phillip and themselues are baptized not onely with water but with the signe of the Crosse printed in their flesh with hot Iron gathering that fire is as necessary to Baptisme as water out of those words of S. Iohn Baptist I baptise you with water but he shall baptise you with the Spirit and fire Also they vse the Iewes and Mahometans circumcision like wary Notaries who fearing to faile in their assurance neuer think they haue vsed words enough yet doe they greatly hatë the Iewes and thinke their Altars defiled if they doe but looke vpon them They giue the Sacrament of our Lords Supper to very children and they as all the rest excepting the Franks that is Papists giue it in both kindes When they sing Masse or Psalmes they leape and clap their hands and like the Iewes vse Stage-Players actions They vse their owne that is the Egyptian tongue in Diuine seruice and obseruing a Lent of fiftie dayes at one time do greatly maccrate their bodies In the Church they keepe the Chappell adioyning to the Sepulcher and the pillar where they say Christ was crowned with Thornes The Armenians are so called of the Prouince Armenta which they inhabite and they call their chiefe Bishop Catholicon whom they reuerence as another Pope They disagree with the Greekes and rather apply themselues to the Franks yet they keepe not the Feast of Christs birth but fast that day They keepe the Roman Lent but more strictly abstaining from Fish and very Oyle which they vse for butter but vpon some Holy-dayes in that time they eate flesh They mingle no water with the Wine of the Sacrament as the Papists doe but with them they lift vp the bread yea and the Cup also to be worshipped Of old with reseruation of customes they ioyned themselues to the Roman Church but finding the Pope to giue them no helpe against their enemies they quickly fell from him The very Lay men are shaued like Clerkes vpon their heads but in the forme of a Crosse and their Priests keepe the haire of their heads long in two tusts placing therein great Religion In the Church they keepe the pillar where they say the garments of Christ were parted and lots cast vpon his Coate and in the Citie the place where they say Saint lames was beheaded and the house of the High Priest Caiphas vpon Mount Sion The Nestorians are so called of the Monke Nestorius who infected the Persians Tartars and Iewes with his heresie They giue the Sacrament of the Lords Supper in both kindes and that to children as well as men They vse the Caldean tongue in diuine seruice and otherwise the Arabian In the Church they keepe the prison wherein they say Christ was shut vp The Maronites inhabite Phanicia and the Mount of Libanus and they vse the Syrian tongue in their diuine seruice namely as I thinke the Arabian And they said that these men for pouerty were lately fled from Ierusalem Some make mention of a tenth sect namely the lacobites named of Iacob Disciple to the Patriarke of Alexandria who liue mingled among Turkes Tartares inhabiting partly Nubia in Afrike partly the Prouinces of India I remember not to haue seene any such at my being there neither yet to haue heard any mention of them yet others write that they admit circumcision as well as baptisme and besides print the signe of the Crosse by an hot Iron in some conspicuous part of their body that they confesse their sinnes onely to God not to their Priests that they acknowledge but one nature in Christ that in token of their faith they make the signe of the Crosse with one finger and giue the Sacrament of our Lords Supper in both kinds yea to Infants as well as to those who are of full age I cannot omit an old Spanish woman who had for many yeeres liued there locked vp in the Temple lodging euery night at the doore of the sepulcher and hauing her diet by the Friars almes Shee said that shee came to Ierusalem to expiate her sinnesby that holy pilgrimage that shee had then beene there seuen yeeres and in that time had alwaies
halfe long and about three quarters broad and little or nothing thicker then a French crowne They shew also foure Crosses of pure gold which they said a certaine Queene once tooke from them but presently fell lunatike neither could be cured vntill she had restored them In the open streets some Monuments are set on the walles in honour of certaine Citizens who died in a nights tumult when the Duke hoped to surprize the City I said that the Senate house is stately built in which they shew to strangers many vessels of gold and siluer of a great value and quantity for a City of that quality From Luneburg I returned to Hamburg whither I and my company might haue had a Coach for 4. Dollors But we misliking the price hired a waggon for three Lubeck shillings each person to Wentzon three miles distant from Luneburg Here the Duke of Lunebergs territory ends to whom each man paid a Lubeck shilling for tribute my selfe onely excepted who had that priuiledge because I went to study in the Vniuersities Here each man paied two Lubeck shillings for a Waggon to the Elue side being one mile and the same day by water wee passed other three miles to Hamburg not without great noy somnesse from some base people in the boat for which passage we paied each man three Lubeck shillings Let me admonish the Reader that if when we tooke boat we had onely crossed the Elue we might haue hired a Waggon from Tolspecker a Village to Hamburg being three miles for two Dollors amongst six persons Being at Hamburg and purposing to goe vp into Misen because I had not the language I compounded with a Merchant to carry mee in his Coach and beare my charges to Leipzig for tenne gold Guldens The first day hauing broke our faste at Hamburg we passed seauen miles ouer the Heath of Luneburg and lodged in a Village In our way we passed many Villages of poore base houses and some pleasant groues but all the Countrey was barren yet yeelded corne in some places though in no plenty The second day we came to a little City Corneiler through a Countrey as barren as the former and towards our iourneis end wee passed a thicke wood of a mile long The third day we went seuen miles to Magdenburg which is counted sixe and twenty miles from Hamburg and this day we passed a more fertile Countrey and more wooddy and they shewed me by the way an Hill called Bockesberg famous with many ridiculous fables of Witches yeerely meeting in that place This City of old called Parthenopolis of Venus Parthenea is now called Magdenburg that is the City of Virgins for an Inland City is very faire and the Germans speake much of the fortification because Mauricius Elector of Saxony besieged it a whole yeere with the Emperour Charles the fifth his Army yet tooke it not Howbeit I thinke that not so much to bee attributed to the strength of the City as to the distracted mind of the besieger who in the meane time sollicited the French King to ioyne with the Dutch Princes to free Germanie from the Emperours tyranny and the French Army being once on foot himselfe raised forces against the Emperour The forme of this City is like a Moone increasing the Bishopricke thereof is rich and the Margraue of Brandeburg his eldest sonne did then possesse it together with the City and territory by the title of Administrator in which sort he also held the Bishopricke of Hall and he lay then at Wormested a Castle not farre of In the market place there is a Statua erected to the Emperour Otho the Great founder of that City and Munster writes of another statua erected to Rowland which I remember not to haue seene In the Senate-house they shewed a singular picture made by one Lucas a famous Painter dead some thirty yeeres before where also is the picture of that monstrous German with all the dimensions of his body who not long before was led about the world to be shewed for a wonder This man I had not seene but in this picture I could scarce reach the crowne of his head with the point of my rapier and many of good credit told me that they had seene this mans sister halfe an ell higher then he In the Church that lies neere the market place there is a Font of great worth and a Lute painted with great Art the Cathedrall Church of Saint Maurice was built by Otho the Great very sumptuously where his wife lies buried in the yeere 948. and the inscription is that shee was daughter to Edmund King of England There they shew one of the three vessels in which our Sauiour Christ turned water into wine at Cana in Galile There be in all ten Churches but the aboue named are the fairest Hence we went foureteene miles to Leipzig being a day and a halfes iourney through fruitfull corne fields and a Countrey full of rich Villages the Merchant with whom I went bearing my charges from Hamburg I might haue hired a Coach to Leipzig for sixe persons those of Nurnburg bearing eight for 24. dollers and if a man goe thence to Luneburg he may easily light on a Coach of returne at a lesse rate so that in respect of the cheapnes of victuals in these parts no doubt I gaue the Merchant too much for my charges in this iourney Leipzig is seated in a plaine of most fruitfull corne ground and full of rich Villages in a Countrey called Misen subiect to the Elector Duke of Saxony and the Countrey lying open to the eye in a most ample prospect onely one wood can be seene in this large plaine The streets are faire the market place large and stately and such are the chiefe houses built of free stone foure roofes high there is a conuenient conduit of water in the Suburbs lying towards Prage the ditch is dry the wals of stone threaten ruine neither may the Citizens fortifie the Towne nor vse red waxe in their publike seales nor winde a Horne in their night watches as other Cities doe these and other priuiledges being taken from them in the yeere 1307. when they killed their Duke Ditzmanus in Saint Thomas Church Out of this City they haue as many Cities in Germany haue a beautifull place to bury their dead called Gods-aker vulgarly Gotts-aker where the chiefe Citizens buy places of buriall proper to their families round about the Cloisters and the common sort are buried in the midst not couered with any building Here I found this Epitaph the numerall Letters whereof shew the yeere when the party died FoeLIX qVI In DoMIno nIXVs ab orbe fVgIt And like Epitaphs are ordinarily found through Germany This Citie hath an Vniuersity and in the yeere 1480. the Students of Prage remoued hither to flie the Hussites warre but at this day the Vniuersitie is much decayed by reason that Wittteberg lieth neere hauing better conueniency for the Schollers liuing From hence I
tooke my iourney in the afternoone to Witteberg and came that night to Teben a Village foure miles distant through a Wood so large as wee could not passe it in two houres beyond which the ground was barren till wee passed the Riuer Elue which runneth by Witteberg all the length of it from the East to the West but is somewhat distant from the Towne The next day we passed foure miles to Witteberg which hath his name of Wittekindus the first Christian Duke of Saxony and is seated in a plaine sandy ground hauing on the North Hils planted with Vines yeelding a sower grape plentifully yet they make no wine thereof One streete lies the whole length of the Towne being all the beautie thereof and in the midst of this street is the Cathedrall Church and a faire market place in which the Senate house is built and neere the West gate is the Dukes Church It is prouerbially said that a man shall meet nothing at Witteberg but whores students and swine to which purpose they haue these two Verses Ni Witeberga sues ni plurima scorta teneret Ni pubem Phoebi quaeso quid esset ibi Had Witeberg no swine if no whores were Nor Phoebus traine I pray you what is there Whence may be gathered that the Citizens haue small trafficke liuing only vpon the Schollers and that the streets must needs be filthy In the study of Doctor Wisinbechius this inscription is in Latine Here stood the bed in which Luther gently died See how much they attribute to Luther for this is not the place where hee died neither was there any bed yet suffer they not the least memory of him to be blotted out Luther was borne at Isleb in the yere 1483 certainly died there in the house of Count Mansfield where after supper the seuenteenth of February he fell into his vsuall sickenesse namely the stopping of humors in the Orifice of his belly and died thereupon at fiue of the clocke in the morning the eighteenth of February in the yeere 1546. the said Count and his Countesse and many other being present and receiuing great comfort from his last exhortations yet from his sudden death the malitious Iesuits tooke occasion to slander him as if he died drunken that by aspersions on his life and death they might slander the reformation of Religion which he first began These men after their manner being to coniure an vncleane spirit out of a man in Prage gaue out that he was free from this spirit for the time that Luther died and that when hee returned they examined him where hee had beene that time and the spirit should answere that hee had attended Luther Phillip Melancthon borne in the yeere 1497. died 1560. and both these famous men were buried and haue their Monuments in the Dukes Church at Witteberg which is said to be like that of Hierusalem and in that both of them are round I will not deny it but I dare say they differ in this that Hierusalem Church hath the Chauncell in the middest with Allies to goe round about it whereas the Chancell of this Church is at the East end of it The Wittebergers tell many things of Luther which seeme fabulous among other things they shew an aspersion of inke cast by the Diuell when he tempted Luther vpon the wall in S. Augustines Colledge Besides they shew a house wherein Doctor Faustus a famous coniurer dwelt They say that this Doctor liued there about the yeere 1500. and had a tree all blasted and burnt in the adioyning Wood where hee practised his Magick Art and that hee died or rather was fetched by the Diuell in a Village neere the Towne I did see the tree so burnt but walking at leasure through all the Villages adioyning I could neuer heare any memory of his end Not farre from the City there is a mountaine called the Mount of Apollo which then as of old abounded with medicinable herbes In a Village neere the Towne there be yet many tokens that the Emperour Charles the fifth encamped there I liued at Witteberg the rest of this summer where I paied a Gulden weekely for my diet and beere which they account apart and for my chamber after the rate of tenne Guldens by the yeare I heare that since all things are dearer the Schollers vsing to pay each weeke a Dollor for their diet and a Dollor for chamber and washing Hence I tooke my iourney to Friburge that I might see the funerall of Christianus the Elector Three of vs hired a Coach all this iourney for a Dollor each day with condition that we should pay for the meat of the horses and of the coach-man which cost as much more And this we paied because we had freedome to leaue the coach at our pleasure though we returned with it to Leipzig to which if we would haue tied our selues we might haue had the coach for halfe a Dollor a day The first day wee went sixe miles to Torge through sandy fields yeelding corne and we dined at Belgar a Village where each man paied fiue grosh for his dinner and by the way they shewed vs a Village called Itzan where Luther made his first Sermons of reformation Torge is a faire City of Misen of a round forme falling each way from a mountaine and seated on the West side of Elue It hath a stately Castle belonging to the Elector Duke of Saxony who is Lord of Leipzig Witteberg and all the Cities we shall passe in this iourney This Castle is washed with the Riuer Elue and was built by Iohn Fredricke Elector in the yeere 1535. It hath a winding way or plaine staire by which a horse may easily goe to the top of the Castle the passage being so plaine as the ascent can scarcely be discerned The Hall Chambers and Galleries of this Castle are very faire and beautifull and adorned with artificiall pictures among which one of a boy presenting flowers is fairer then the rest Also there is a picture on the wall of one Laurence Weydenberg a Sweitzer made in the twentieth yeere of his age in the yeere 1531 shewing that he was nine foot high In the Church there is a Monument of Katherine a Nunne which died 1552. and was wife vnto Luther The Village Milburg is within a mile of this City in the way to Dresden where the Elector Fredericke was taken prisone by Charles the fifth in the Protestants warre The lake neere the City is a mile in circuit for the fishing whereof the Citizens pay 500. guldens yeerely to the Elector of Saxony and they fish it once in three yeeres and sell the fish for some 5000. guldens The beare of Torge is much esteemed through all Misen whereof they sell such quantity abroad as ten water-mils besides wind-mils scarcely serue the towne for this purpose From Torge we went six miles to Misen in our Coach hired as aforesaid and we dined each man for fiue grosh in the
plaine of inclosed pastures Entering the City we passed the brooke Limachus by a bridge the Suburbs are built vpon the ascent of a Mountaine and the City on the top of it where there is a Castle vpon a Rocke of old very strong but now ruinated on the North side descending into a valley by the brooke on the right hand or vpon the East side within a musket shot lie the Baths which are famous for medicine and are in number thirty seated on each side the Brooke which diuideth them into Bethora the great and the little In the great diuers Bathes are contained vnder one roofe of a faire house and without the gate are two common to the poore These waters are so strong of brimstone as the very smoake warmeth them that come neere and the waters burne those that touch them Of these one is called the Marques Bath and is so hot as it will scald off the haire of a Hogge many hauing no disease but that of loue how soeuer they faine sickenesse of body come hither for remedy and many times find it Weomen come hither as richly attired as if they came to a marriage for Men Weomen Monkes and Nunnes sit all together in the same water parted with boords but so as they may mutually speake and touch and it is a rule here to shun all sadnes neither is any iealousie admitted for a naked touch The waters are so cleere as a penny may be seene in the bottome and because melancholy must be auoided they recreate themselues with many sports while they sit in the water namely at cards and with casting vp and catching little stones to which purpose they haue a little table swimming vpon the water vpon which sometimes they doe likewise eate These Bathes are very good for Weomen that are barren They are also good for a cold braine and a stomacke charged with rhume but are hurtfull for hot and dry complexions and in that respect they are held better for Weomen then Men. The Innes were wont to pay tribute to the three Cantons of Baden Brucke and Bazell but now Baden alone makes great profit of them by the great concourse of sickely persons and the Parliaments of the Cantons commonly held there I paid for my diet six Batzen a meale From hence I hired a Horse at the same rate as before and passing through woody Mountaines came in three houres riding to the City Brucke By the way I passed the Brooke Russe which runneth from Lucerna into these parts and the boate was drawne by a cable running vpon a wheele by reason of the waters swift course where I paide for my passage sixe creitzers and when I came neere Bruck I passed the Brooke Ara by a bridge paying one creitzer for tribute and here I paid fiue batzen a meale From hence hiring a horse as before I rode in two houres space to Hornsea through steepe Mountaines and a wood of Oake by the way lies Kingsfeld that is Kingly field a Monastery so called because Widowe Queenes and Kings forsaking their Scepters and inferiour Princes were wont of old to enter into this place for the solitary profession of Religion In the same Cloyster of old liued the Friars of Saint Francis order in the building on the right hand as you come in and the Nunnes of Saint Clara on the left hand and both came to the same Chappell the Friars to the body of the Church and the Nunnes to close galleries aboue looking out and hearing through grates The Emperour Albertus being killed by his Nephew in the yeere 1380. at Santbacke three miles distant this Monastery was built for his memory though his bones were buried at Spire The reuenewes of this monastery grew in time to be yeerly forty thousand Guldens which are now appropriated to the common treasure of the Sweitzer Cantons Leopold Duke of Austria lies here buried Ferdinand of Insprucke one of the Archdukes of Austria is Lord of Hornesea all the rest of the territories from Schafhusen to this place belonging to the Cantons of Sweitzerland and here I paid sixe batzen a meale Hence I hired a horse as before and rode in fiue houres to Rheinefeld through fruitfull hils of corne hauing on all sides wooddy Mountaines in sight Here againe I passed the Rheine and paid two raps for my horse and my selfe foot-men paying but one The Rheine passeth by with a violent course and washeth the Towne on the East side Here I paid sixe Batzen a meale Hence hiring a Horse as before I rode in two houres space to Bazell through a faire plaine of corne and pasture lying vpon the Rheine hauing on all sides woody Mountaines in sight and neere the City were most pleasant fields planted with vines to the which fields the territory of the said Arch-duke extendeth on the East side of the Rheine I entered by little Bazell seated in a plaine on the East side of Rheine and so passed by a bridge of wood into the greater Bazell seated vpon pleasant hils on the West side of Rheine This City of old was one of the imperiall free Cities but now is ioined to the Cantons of Sweitzerland and was built in the yeere 3 2 hauing the name of a Basiliske slaine by a Knight couered with cristall or of the word Pasell which in Dutch signifies a beaten path or of the greeke word 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 as a kingly City The lesse Bazell was of old built by an Arch-duke of Austria in preiudice of the greater and after being sold to it for thirty thousand guldens was incorporated therevnto The greater hath many caues vnder the hils and suffered a great earth-quake in the yeere 1346 at which time the Pallace neere the Cathedrall Church fell into the Rheine and another Earth-quake in the yeere 1356. wherein 180. persons were killed all the people flying out of the Towne Eugenius the Pope held a Councell in this City the yeere 1431. The Bridge of wood ioyning the little and great City diuided by the Rheine is broad enough for two carts to passe at once and towards little Bazell six Arches are of stone but towards great Bazell where the Rheine tunneth most swiftly eight Arches are built of wood that they may be more easily repaired and vpon any warre from Germany more readily broken downe This City is of the forme of an half Moone I meane the great City reckoning the lesse for a Suburbe and being seated upon diuers hils on the West side of the Rheine imbraceth betweene the two hornes the lesser City seated in a plaine on the East side of Rheine On the West side of the greater the Emperor Rodulphus of Habspurg besieged the City and on this side something towards the North within the walles is a most pleasant greene for walking called peter platz In this place is the Armory of the City and the tribunal of Iustice and some faire houses of priuate men and a most pleasant shade of trees among
the land being seuered from it by waters and on the sea being hedged in with a strong sea banke but also giue ioyfull rest vnder their power to their subiects on land though exposed to the assault of their enemies The City parted in the middest with the great channell comming in from the sea banke neere the two Castles is of old diuided into six sextaries or six parts vulgarly sestieri three on this side the channell and three beyond the channell The first sextary on this side the channell is that of Saint Marke for howsoeuer it be not the Cathedrall Church yet it is preferred before the rest as well because the Duke resides there as especially because Saint Marke is the protecting Saint of that Ciry The body of which Saint being brought hither by Merchants from Alexandria this Church was built in the yeere 829. at the charge of the Duke Iustinian who dying gaue by his last will great treasure to that vse and charged his brother to finish the building which was laid vpon the ruines of Saint Theodores Church who formerly had beene the protecting Saint of the City And the same being consumed with fire in the yeere 976. it was more stately rebuilt according to the narrownes of the place the Merchants being charged to bring from all places any precious thing they could find fit to adorne the same whatsoeuer it cost The length of the Church containeth two hundred foot of Venice the bredth fifty the circuit 950. The building is become admirable for the singular art of the builders and painters and the most rare peeces of Marble Porphry Ophites stones so called of speckles like a serpent and like stones and they cease not still to build it as if it were vnfinished lest the reuenues giuen by the last wils of dead men to that vse should returne to their heires as the common report goes There were staires of old to mount out of the market place into the Church till the waters of the channell increasing they were forced to raise the height of the market place On the side towards the market place are fiue doores of brasse whereof that in the middest is fairest and the same with one more are daily opened the other three being shut excepting the dayes of Feasts Vpon the ground neere the great doore is a stone painted as if it were engrauen which painting is vulgarly called Ala Mosaica and vpon this stone Pope Alexander set his foot vpon the necke of the Emperour Fredericke Barbarossa adoring him after his submission The outward part of the Church is adorned with 148. pillars of marble whereof some are Ophytes that is speckled and eight of them are Porphry neere the great doore which are highly esteemed And in all places about the Church there be some six hundred pillars of marble besides some three hundred in the caues vnder ground Aboue these pillars on the outside of the Church is an open gallery borne vp with like pillars from whence the Venetians at times of Feasts behold any shewes in the market place And aboue this gallery and ouer the great doore of the Church be foure horses of brasse guilded ouer very notable for antiquity and beauty and they are so set as if at the first step they would leape into the market place They are said to be made to the similitude of the Horses of Phoebus drawing the Chariot of the Sunne and to haue beene put vpon the triumphall Arke of Nero by the people of Rome when he had ouercome the Parthians But others say that they were giuen to Nero by Tiridates the King of Armenia and were made by the hands of the famous engrauer Lisippus These Horses Constantine remoued from Rome to Constantinople and that City being sacked the Venetians brought them to Venice but they tooke of the bridles for a signe that their City had neuer beene conquered but enioied Virgin liberty And all the parts of these horses being most like the one to the other yet by strange art both in posture of motion and otherwise they are most vnlike one to the other Aboue this gallery the Image of Saint Marke of marble and like images of the other Euangelists of the Virgin Mary and of the Angell Gabriell are placed and there is a bell vpon which the houres are sounded for the Church hath his Clocke though another very faire Clocke in the market place be very neere it The roofe in forme of a Globe lies open at the very top where the light comes in for the Church hath no windowes and the Papist Churches being commonly darke to cause a religious horror or to make their candles shew better this is more darke then the rest I passe ouer the image of Saint Marke of brasse in the forme of a Lion guilded ouer and holding a booke of brasse Likewise the artificiall Images of the Doctors of the Church and others I would passe ouer the Image of the Virgin Mary painted ala Mosaica that is as if it were engrauen but that they attribute great miracles to it so as weomen desirous to know the state of their absent friends place a wax candle burning in the open aire before the Image and beleeue that if their friend be aliue it cannot be put out with any force of wind but if he be dead that the least breath of wind puts it out or rather of it selfe it goes out and besides for that I would mention that those who are adiudged to death offer waxe candles to this Image and as they passe by fall prostratero adore the same To conclude I would not omit mention thereof because all shippes comming into the Hauen vse to salute this Image and that of Saint Marke with peeces of Ordinance as well and more then the Duke A Merchant of Venice saued from shipwracke by the light of a candle in a darke night gaue by his last will to this Image that his heires for euer should find a waxe candle to burne before the same Aboue the said gallery are little chambers in which they lay vp pieces of stone and glasse with other materials for the foresaid painting ala Mosaica which is like to engrauing and Painters hauing pensions from the state doe there exercise that Art highly esteemed in Italy The outward roofe is diuided into foure globes couered with leade Touching the inside of the Church In the very porch thereof is the Image of Saint Marke painted with wonderfull art and the Images of Christ crucified of him buried and of the foure Euangelists highly esteemed besides many other much commended for the said painting like engrauing and for other workemanship And there be erected foure great pillars of Ophites which they say were brought from the Temple of Salomon At the entery of the doore is an old and great sepulcher in which lies the Duke Marine Morosini Not far thence is the image of Saint Geminian in pontificall habit and another of Saint Katherine both painted with great
for certaine yeeres sinnes praying on other daies and the remission of the third part of all sinnes praying there vpon Saint Peters euen And you must vnderstand that all these Churches haue some like indulgences Here they shew the bodies of Saint Simeon and Saint Iude the Apostle and Saint Iohn Chrysostome and of Pope Saint Gregory the Great and the head of Saint Andrew and of Saint Luke the Euangelist and halfe the bodies of Saint Peter and Saint Paul and Christs face printed vpon the hand-kercher of Veronica and the head of the speare thrust into the side of Christ and among many pillars brought from Hierusalem one vpon which Christ leaned when he did preach and cast out Diuels which yet hath power as they say to cast out Diuels Alwaies vnderstand that in Italy Priests that cast out Diuels are most frequent neither are they wanting in any place where the Papists can hide their impostures Great part of these relikes they say were sent by the Turkish Emperour to Pope Innocent the eight But I omit these things into which none but Papists may safely inquire and returne to the monuments which lie open to euery mans view The Chappell is most rich in which Gregory the xiij lies and the stately sepulcher of Pope Paul the third hath most faire statuaes The statua of Saint Peter of brasse placed vnder the Organs was of old erected to Iupiter Capitolinus In the Court of the Church for I cannot call it a Church-yard the Emperour Otho the second lies buried in a low sepulcher of Porphry There is a most faire Pineaple of brasse guilded more then fiue cubites high which they say was brought hither from the monument of the Emperour Andrian in the place where the Castle of Saint Angelo now stands as likewise the Peacockes were brought from the Monument of Scipio The third Church of S t Paul is without the XIII gate of S t Paul about a mile from the City in the way to Ostia and they say it was built by Constantine and it stands vppon eighty eight pillars of marble in foure rowes each pillar being but one stone and it is adorned with marble staires and pictures Alla Mosaica as if they were engrauen which are onely in the chancell and neere the doore The Popes haue giuen great indulgences to these Churches as well as to others They shew here the bodies of Saint Timothy Saint Celsus and Sant Iulian Disciples to Saint Paul and halfe the bodies of Saint Peter and S t Paul and a Crucifix which of old spake to Saint Briget the Queene of Sueuia and many armes and fingers of Saints Neere this Church is that of Saint Anastatius where the head of Saint Paul being cut off made three leapes and in the place where it fell they say there sprang vp three fountaines which are there to bee seene The fourth Church of Saint C Mary Maggiore is vpon the Mount Esquiline I will omit hence forward the indulgences and relikes lest I be tedious This Church is adorned with forty pillars of Marble The rich Chappell di praesepio so called of the cratch in which Christ was borne being kept here is stately adorned with the pauement engraued the arched roofe guilded pictures Alla Mosaica as if they were engrauen the stately sepulcher of Pope Nicholas and his statua of white marble The Chappell of Pius Qutntus built for him after his death by Sixtus the fifth is adorned with the Victory painted in golden letters which he and his confederates had by sea against Selimus Emperour of the Turkes and is adorned with statuaes guilded with foure Angels guilded and precious stones together with the rare Art of engrauers and Painters The fifth Church S. Lorenzo is without the VIII gate of that name in the way to Tiburtina something more then a mile from the City and it is said to be built by Constantine the Great He that goes to this Church euery wednesday in a whole yeere shall deliuer a soule from Purgatory if the Pope keepe his promise It is adorned with a Pulpit of white marble and most faire ophite stones and at the doore with a sepulcher of Saint Eustacius of white marble curiously carued and another sepulcher opposite to that The sixth Church S. Sebastiano is without the XII gate of that name more then a mile out of the City in the way of Appius Here is a place called Catacombe and there is a well in which they say the bodies of Saint Paul and Saint Peter did lie vnknowne a long time and here is a way vnder earth to the Church yard of Calixtus where they say the Christians lav hid in the times of persecution and that there were found 174. thousand which had beene made Martyres and that eight of these were Bishops of Rome Here on all sides with amazement I beheld the ruines of old buildings and the sepulcher of the Emperour Aurelius is not farre from this Church The seuenth Church D di S. Croce in Gierusalem is seated between the gate Maggiore the gate S. Giouanni vpon the Mount Celius or rather Celiolus being part of it and it is said that Constantine the Great built it Here they shew a little vessell filled with the blood of Christ and the spunge which they gaue him with vineger vpon the crosse and the title which Pilate writ vpon the Crosse and one of the thirty pence which Iudas tooke for betraying Christ. And no woman may enter into the Chappell wherein Helena is said to haue praied but once onely in the yeere vpon the twelfth of March. And this Church giues the title to a Cardinall The second day we began the view of Rome with the Q Popes Pallace seated in the part of the Citie called Il'Borgo which Pallace Pope Nicholas the third built and Nicholas the fifth compassed with walles and the Pallace is of great circuit and the staires are so easie that Horses and Mules may goe vp to the top of the Mountaine and with easie ascent and descent beare the Popes carriage At the enterance there be three galleries one aboue the other whereof the two first were built by Leo the tenth and Paul the third and the third and highest by Sixtus Quintus and they are all fairely painted and guilded Vpon these lie two large chambers and beyond them is a vast and long gallery of foure hundred seuentie and one walking paces in the middest whereof is the famous Librarie of the Popes In vaticano and therein are many inscriptions of the Pope Sixtus Quintus who repaired it and it is adorned with many faire pictures guilded all ouer I did fee the seuerall roomes thereof The first one hundred fortie and seuen walking paces long had three rowes of Cubbards filled with bookes the second was thirtie nine paces long and the third containing the bookes of greatest price locked vp was twentie paces long Pope Sixtus the fourth built this Librarie with the Chappell of the Pallace and the Conclaue The
towards the City and before you enter into the gates lies C the stately Pallace of Andreetta D' Auria or Doria the building whereof the garden the staires to discend to the sea the banquetting house and diuers open galleries are of Kingly magnificence Not farre thence vpon the wall is a D statua erected to Andrea 〈◊〉 Aurta late Admirall to the Spanish Fleete Then you come to the P gate of the City and not far thence within the wals is P ano her gate leading to the inner Hauen where the Gallies lie Not farre thence is the most faire Cathedrall G Church in which is an ancient monument of mettall digged out of the adiovning valley which hath an old inscription shewing the antiquity of the City-Not farre thence is the K Church Saint Matthew wherein the Prinets of the Family of 〈◊〉 haue long had their monuments Neere that lies the L Dukes Pallace not his priuate Pallace but publike which is kept by a guard of Dutchmen who also haue the keeping of two of the strongest gates of the City In the Court yard of this Pallace is a foot ftatua armed and of white marble erected to the foresaid Andrea d' Aurta by the Senate with the title of Father of his Countrey because ne had lately restored the Citizens to their liberty And in an vpper chamber called Sala brutta are diuers statuaes in the habits of Senators erected to Paulo Spinola to Eattista Grimaldo and Ansidio Gri. S. C. On the West side without the wals are Pallaces of Gentlemen almost innumerable and in the highest part of the City was the new Castle E most strongly fortified which the Citizens demolished to preserue their liberty A little lower and within the wals is the new streete vulgarly F La strada Nuona lying from the West to the North-east each house whereof is built with Kingly magnificence neither doe I thinke that any City in the world hath so faire a streete These houses or rather Pallaces may be seene by strangers for the Gentlemens seruants keeping them willingly shew them to any desiring that fauour aswell in expectance of reward as for the honour of their Master and Countrey My selfe did see the Pallace of Giouan Battista d' Auria the building whereof was very stately and the garden not onely most pleasant but adorned with statuaes and fountaines And in one of the chambers were the Gentlemens Armes whereof some were of pure siluer guilded ouer The City hath certaine inner gates which alwaies stand open and shew that the circuit of the City is now much increased and vpon these gates are chaines of iron for remembrance as they say of their liberty once lost The whole circuit of the City excepting the Mola is fiue miles and saue that the inner Hauen strikes somewhat into the City it seemeth almost of a round forme No doubt the City is of great antiquity which some say was built by Gianus King of Italie and of him had the name and that the Promontory 〈◊〉 was of old called the vineyard of Gianus The monument in the Cathedrall Church witnesseth that this City flcrished among the old Cities of Italy about 300. yeeres before Christs incarnation Others will haue the City named of a Latin word as the gate of Italy It is fortified toward the sea with all art and towards the land aswell by nature as art there being but one way to come to it and that ouer high and steepe rockes The streets are narrow the Pallaces are stately built of marble and the other houses of free stone fiue or sixe stories high and the windowes are glased which is rare in Italy The streetes are paued with flint and the houses of the suburbs are almost as faire as within the City Corals are fished in this sea towards Sardinia and Corsica Ilands not farre distant and the ounce thereof is here sold for three lires Now in the very moneth of December the markets were full of summer flowers herbes and fruits whereof I shall speake more in the due place It is prouerbially said of this City Montagne senza legni Mar ' senza pesci huomini senza fede donne senza vergogna Mori bianchi Genoa superba That is Mountaines without wood Sea without fish Men without faith Weomen without shame white Moores Genoa the proud In good earnest they report that the Merchants being not bound by writing make little accompt to breake their promise and the French liberty of the Weomen makes the Italians iudge them without shame and as Florence is called the faire for the building so I thinke Genoa is called the proud The chaires called Seggioli whereof I spake in the discription of Naples are also in vse here in which the Citizens of both sexes are carried vpon two Porters shoulders through the streetes lying vpon the sides of hils the chaires being couered with a curtaine drawne and hauing glasse windowes so as they may see all men and themselues be vnseene Besides in regard of the narrow streetes and the steepe mountaines on all sides they vse horse litters here in stead of Coaches The men in their feasting dancing and free conuersation and the weomen in their apparell come neerer to the French then any other Italians Here I paid one reale by the day for my chamber and dressing my meat which I bought my selfe all things being at good rate in the City as in the Countrey There is such store of fruits as they giue a citron for a quatrine and two Oranges for a quatrine and to end in a word my diet here was for the manner and price not much differing from the same at Pisa. They accompt ninety miles from Genoa to Milan which iourney I went on foot willingly exposing my selfe to this trouble partly to spare my purse in the bottome partly to passe more safely in this disguise through the Dutchy of Milan subiect to the Spaniards who then had warres with the English The first day after dinner I walked all alone seuen miles to Ponte Decimo by the banke of a riuer betweene stony mountaines but frequently inhabited And I paid eight soldi for my supper on reckoning and a cauellotto that is foure bolinei for my bed The second day I went on foot eleuen miles ascending all the way high mountaines and tired with the difficulty of the iourney onely refreshed with the hope of an easie discent from the mountaines and being very hungry by the way I chanced to meet with a begging Friar of the Order of Saint Francis who hauing victuals in his bag gaue me to eat but would receiue no money for it saying it was against their rule to handle any money Thence I walked seuen miles downe those mountaines in the territory of Genoa to Gauidon and foure miles more through a plaine and dirty way in the Dutchy of Milan to Seraualle where I paid foure cauellotti that is sixteene bolinei for my supper and my bed The third day in the morning I walked foureteene
miles in a dirty way to Tortona where I paid one soldo for tribute as all passengers pay and seuen soldi for my dinner vpon reckoning Thence I walked after dinner in a dirty way fiue miles to Ponte Curon and further in a way somewhat fairer fiue miles to Voghera All this way in the Dutchy of Milan was in a most fruitfull plaine of corne with Elmes planted in the furrowes and vines growing vpon them and such is the way in all Lombardy and to the very City of Paduoa At Voghera I paid three reali for my supper and bed And here by chance I sound an English Merchant in the Inne who talking rashly did voluntarily without being examined whence he was professe himselfe to be a Dutchman and my selfe in disguised poore habit sitting at the lower end of the table and speaking to him in the Dutch language he was forced for want of the language to say that he was a Dutch-man but borne vpon the confines of France and knowing no no other language but the French whereupon I speaking to him in the French tongue he had as little skill in that as in the Dutch so as I might perceiue that he dissembled his Countrey and being not willing to presse him as hauing beene my selfe often forced in like sort to dissemble my Countrey did forbeare to speake any more to him in the Dutch or French tongue we began to discourse in Italian wherein he had spoken little before he vttered these words Iome ne repentiua that is Irepented my selfe therof whereas an Italian would haue said Iome ne pentiua by which fillable added by him I presently knew he was an English man Supper being ended he perceiuing himselfe to haue beene thus pressed by a poore fellow sitting at the lower end of the table tooke me for a spie and feared I should betray him and presently went into the stable where he commanded his seruant to saddle their horses that they might ride all night towards Genoa But I following him and boldly speaking English to him he was soone content to stay all night and to take me in my homely apparell for his bedfellow Hauing passed this night merrily I hired a horse the fourth day for foure cauellotti and rode eleuen miles to Bastia then I walked on foot seuen miles to Paula and being afoote-man I paid fiue foldi for my passage ouer the Riuer Po. This iourney hitherto was in a dirty way hauing plaine fields on both sides tilled after the foresaid manner of Lombordy and many rich pastures which are rare in all other parts of Italy Entering Paula I passed a stately bridge built ouer the Riuer 〈◊〉 which runnes from the West to the East and after sixe miles falleth into the Riuer Po. This bridge was two hundred walking prices long and so broad as two carts might passe together and was built of stone and couered ouer the head with a roofe with open aire on the sides supported with pillars The City lies in length from the East to the West and a new faire street diuides it in the middest by the bredth from the South to the North. On the West side of this street are two market places one greater then the other In the lesse is a 〈◊〉 called Regia Sole of mixt mettall vulgarly Dibronzo which some write to haue beene made with art magicke by the Emperour Anastasius for his own image and to haud beene placed by him vpon the pillar of the souldiers at Rauenna where he kept his Court and after Rauenna was taken by Charles the great that this Image being to be carried into France was by the way left here Others will haue it the statua of the Emperour Antoninus Pias for they are deceiued who thinke it the statua of Odoacer King of the Lombards who hath another statua in this market place On the 〈◊〉 West side of the foresaid new street towards the North-side is the Castle which Iohn Galiacius first Duke of Milon built and the same Dukes Library but almost voide of Bookes and in this Castle lies a Garison of Spaniards Neere that is the Church of Saint 〈◊〉 in a Chappol whereof is a stately Sepulcher in which they say the bones of that Saint were laid being brought thither out of the Iland Sardinia And this sepulcher is of marble curiously engrauen and worthy to be sought out and beheld There I did reade this inscription written in Latin vpon another sepulcher The French King Francis the first being taken by Caesars Army neere Pauia the foureteenth of Febru 〈…〉 among other Lords these were Lorayne Francis Duke of Lorayne Richard de la Poole Englishman and Duke of Suffolke banished by his tyrant King Henry the 〈◊〉 At last Charles Parken of Morley kinseman of the said Richard banished out of England for the Catholike Faith by Queene Elizabeth and made Bishop hereby the 〈◊〉 of Phillip King of Spaine ded out of his small meanes erect this Monument to him c. In a Cloyster of the same Church is a Sepulcher of this Charles Parken Bishop decensed in the yeere 〈◊〉 There is another Monument of 〈◊〉 King of Lombardy and another of the Bishop 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 with this inscription in Latin Most 〈◊〉 in the Greeke and Latin langues who being Consull was sent hither into bamshment And with these verses Hath Death 〈◊〉 ought my goodnes mounts the Skies Great is my same my worke liues in mens eyes On the East side of the saide new streete and towardes the North lies the Church of Saint Francis where is a monument of Baldus the Ciuill Lawyer and they shew his head of an extraordinarie bignesse Without the walles of the Citie on the North side is a piece of ground of some twentie miles circuit compasted with a wall in many places broken downe vulgarly called Il Barco that is the Park which Iohn Galiacius Duke of Milan walled in to keepe fallow Deare Hares and Conies but at this day it is diuided into Pastures and plowed fieldes On the furthest side of this Parke from the City is the place where the French King Francis the first was taken prisoner by the Army of the Emperour Charles the fifth Not farre thence is the Monastery of the Carthusians called la Certosa where the building of the Church the stones of Marble the engrauing the top couered with Leade part of the great Altar of Alablaster highly valued the Sepulcher of Iohn Galiacius first Duke of Millan and the reuenew of the Church exceeding three hundred thousand Crownes by the yeere deserue admiration The buildings of the Citie are of bricke and seeme to be of great antiquitie The Emperour Charles the fourth in the yeere 1361 at the instance of Galiacius the second gaue this Citie the priuiledges of an Vniuersitie The King of Spaine permits lewes to dwell here but they may not stay in Milan aboue twentie foure houres This Citie was the seate of the Kings of Lombardy whose old Castle is
Roman Gate and bearing the Carrier company of whom I hired my horse rode 12 miles the first day after dinner to Marignano through a plaine Country of rich pastures where I paied 3 reali for my supper The second day I rode 30 miles to the Castle Pizighitone through like rich Pastures hauing by the way paid 24 soldi for my dinner and neere my iournies end 3 soldi for my passage ouer the Riuer Adda and at this Castle 1 paied 30 soldi for my Supper The French King Francis the first taken prisoner by the Emperour in the yeere 1525 was for a good space kept with much honour in the tower of this Castle The third day in the morning 1 rode ten miles to Cremoná The Family Pallauicini at this day chiefe in the City when the Empire of Rome decaied made themselues Lords of this Citie whom Galeatius Vicount of Milan subdued and vnited the City to the State of Milan and so by the said Dukedome subdued by the Spaniards it came into their subiection The Cardinall Francis Sfondrato and Eusebius the writer of the Ecclesiasticall Historie were borne in this Citie The forme of the City seemes very like to a Cardinals Hat with broad brimes and it is seated in a Plaine one mile distant from the Riuer Po. Wee entred this Citie by the narrow part lying towards Milan and there is a most strong Fort built to keepe the Citizens in awe and kept by a Spanish Garison and seated in a plaine field wherein are no other buildings but the Fort it selfe From hence going to the opposite broader part of the Citie is a large and very faire Market place neare which is a Tower or Steeple of such height and beautie as the Italians prouerbially say One Peter at Rome one Hauen at Ancona one Tower at Cremona thereby noting the excellencie This Tower is built of bricke and hath foure hundred ninetie and two staires in the ascent Neare the same is a statua of a Giant who they say was ouercome by Hercules the founder of the Citie and the Citizens keepe a feast once a yeere at which time with many ceremonies they adorne this statua with rich robes Neere this Tower and Market place lies the stately Cathedrall Church and the fairest and richest Monastery is that of Saint Dominick This Citie hath many stately Pallaces and the streetes thereof are broad and very pleasant Here I payed thirtie three soldi that is the fourth part of a Ducaton for my supper From hence to Mantua are fortie fiue miles whether I hired a horse for fiue lires The first day we rode twentie two miles where going out of the Dutchie of Milan and passing the Riuer Oye wee entered the Dutchie of Mantua and then rode nine miles to Mercaria And by the way we passed the pleasant Castle or rather Citie called Bozilia belonging to Iulius Gonzaga being of the Family of the Dukes of Mantua which Castle was built with open cloisters or arches toward the streete vnder which the passengers walke drie in the greatest raine and such are the buildings of the Cities in this Dukedome and in many neighbour places By the way also in a solitary Inne I paid fifteene soldi for my dinner and at Mercaria I payed thirtie foure soldi for my supper The second day we rode fourteene miles to Mantua through most fruitfull fieldes tilled after the manner of Lombardy and in a most durtie highway The Histories report that this Citie had the name of Manto the daughter of Tyresias It is seated in the middest of Fennes or Lakes made by the Riuer Mencius The buildings are partly of Brick partly of Free stone and the streetes are large and cleane The forme of this Citie is round saue that the foresaid Lakes on the North and East-sides enter into the Citie in the forme of an halfe Moone Comming from Cremona I entred Mantua on the West side by the Gate Praedella where is a faire streete called Il Borgo On the same side towards the South is the Gate Pistrella which leades to the Dukes stately Pallace called Teye seated some mile out of the Citie and compassed with water where in the Giants Chamber I did see most faire pictures and it is built in a quadrangle onely two stories high with a low roofe after the manner of the building of Italy On the South-side is the Gate of 〈◊〉 whence the way lies by the banke of the Lake to a Village called Petula two miles distant from the Citie in which they say that the famous Poet Virgil was borne and shew the house where his parents dwelt Partly on the North and partly on the East side the Citie is compassed with Lakes which vsually are couered with infinite number of water foule and from these Lakes there is a passage into the Riuer Po and so by water to Venice On the North-East side is the Gate of S. George whence betweene the two Lakes is a causey two hundred walking paces long and beyond it a bridge of stone fiue hundred paces long like to a faire gallery couered ouer the head and supported with bricke pillars hauing open windowes two paces distant one from the other then passing a draw-bridge you come to another causey betweene the said two Lakes which causey is two hundred forty walking paces long before you come to firme land On the East side of the said bridge and within the Citie the Dukes stately Pallace lies vpon the Lake and to this Pallace ioyneth the Cathedrall Church of Saint Peter where also is a pleasant Market-place There lie the Dukes stables and in one of them were some hundred horses for the saddle and in the other as many for the Coach and he hath a third stable without the Gates wherein is the like number of young Colts On the North-side at the furthest banke of the Lake is one onely Gate and a like bridge to passe into the Suburbes and there lics the way to the chiefe Pallace of the Duke some few miles distant from the Citie called 〈◊〉 the building whereof is onely two stories hic with a low roofe and the chiefe chambers were hung with guilded leather after the Italian maner three skins whereof were commonly sold for a Crowne and the Gardens of this Pallace were exceeding pleasant In the middest of the Citie Mantua is a large Market place wherein the Iewes haue their shops and sell all manner of wares for all trafficke is in their hands growing rich by the pouertie of the Citizens and being so much fauoured by the Duke as they dwell not in any seuerall part of the Citie but where they lift and in the very Market-place neither are they forced as in other parts of Italy to weare yellow or red caps whereby they may bee knowne but onely a little piece of yellow cloth on the left side of their cloakes so as they can hardly be distinguished from Christians especially in their shops where they weare no cloakes Such
prospect and likewise a faire picture of Lucretia ready to die No situation can be imagined more pleasant then that of Arqua lying in the mouth of Mountaines abounding with Oliue trees and opening themselues vpon a fruitfull plaine on the East and North sides This plaine yeeldeth nothing in pleasantnes or in fruitfulnes to that of Capua famous for the corrupting of 〈◊〉 Army But it is a 〈◊〉 worke to praise the Euganian hils which so many Poets and Writers haue magnified Vpon Friday the third day of March after the new stile in the beginning of the yeere 1593 according to the Italians beginning the yeere the first of Ianuary of the end of the yeere 1594 according to the English beginning the yeere vpon the twenty fiue of March I turned my face to iourney towards my deere Countrey And the first day I rode eighteene miles to Vicenza through a most pleasant plaine tilled after the manner of Lombardy where one and the same held yeelds plenty of corne and hath Elme trees growing in the furrowes which support the vines so that one field giues bread wine and wood for to burne By the way my curiositie made me turne aside two miles out of the way that I might see a wonderfull Caue and a most pleasant parlor at Costoza in the house of Cesario Irento a Gentleman of Vicenza The Caue was large and fit to receiue diuers bands of souldiers The Parlor was called the prison of AEolus god of the Windes because there were certaine mils which in summer time draw much wind out of hollow Caues and disperse the same through all the chambers of the Paliace refreshing all that dwell there with a most pleasant coole air And vpon this Parlor this verse of Virgill was written AEolus hic clauso ventorum 〈◊〉 cere regnat AEolus here in the winds prison raignes The City of Vicenza is a faire City compassed with a wall of bricke but the building howsoeuer it be very stately is not like to that of other Cities in these parts in this one point namely that the second story of the houses hangeth ouer the streetes and being supported with arches giueth the passengers shelter from raine Here I did see a Theater for Playes which was little but very faire and pleasant In the market place there is a stately Pallace and the monastery of Saint Corona belonging to the preaching Friars is fairely built and hath a rich Library and the Friars keepe for a holy relike the Thorne wherewith Christ was crowned The Citie is subiect to the Venetians and is seated in a plaine hauing mountaines somewhat distant on the North and South sides Here I paid forty soldi for my supper and eighteene soldi for three measures of oates called quarterolli and for the stable so they call hay straw and the stable roome and so I will hereafter call it I paid twenty soldi Here I hired a horse for fiftie six soldi for a foote-man that had attended me hither and was to returne to Paduoa From Vicenza I rode thirty miles to Verona in a most pleasant plaine tilled after the manner of Lombardy lying on my left hand towards Italy farther then I could see and hauing fruitfull nils on my right hand towards the Alpes abounding with vines growing low vpon hort stakes and yeelding rich wines I entered Verona on the East side by the Bishops gate called Porta del'vescono They write that the City was of old called Berona by the name of the Founder thereof but the Friar Leander of Bologna writes that the City was built by the Tuseans and had the name of the Family Vera and was after rebuilt by the Galli Cenomani This most faire City is built in the forme of a Lute the necke whereof lies towards the West on which side the Riuer Athesis running towards the East doth not only compasse the City but runs almost through the center of the body of this Lute so as the lesse part of the body lies on the North side of the Riuer The bankes of Athesis vulgarly called 〈◊〉 Adice are ioined together with three bridges of stone and one of marble and are adorned on both sides with many ruines of an old Theater and old triumphall arches The City is compassed with a wall of bricke and is seated towards the South vpon the end of a large slony plaine and towards the other sides vpon pleasant hils rising towards the distant mountaines It is not built with the houses cast out towards the streetes and supported with Arches to auoid raine as other Cities are in those parts but the building of the houses is stately and the Cathedrall Church is remarkeable for the antiquity as likewise the Church of Saint Anastatius for the great beauty thereof and towards the wals the ground lies void of houses as the manner is in strong Townes It hath a pure aire and is ennobled by the ciuility and auncient Nobility of the Citizens who are indued with a chearefull countenance magnificent mindes and much inclined to all good literature Verona was a free City vnder the Empire about the yeere 1155 till the Family of the Scaligeri growing great in the City about the yeere 1259 did by little and little inuade the freedome of the City and made themselues Lords ouer it At last Anthony Scaliger killing his brother Bartholmew partner with him of that Lordship about the yeere 1381 was driuen out of the City by Vicount Iohn Galeatius the first Duke of Milan and he being dead William Scaliger helped by Francis Carrariensis droue the Garrilon of Milan out of the City in the yeere 1404. But the said Francis killing the said William by poison and the Family of the Scaligers being then so wasted as scarcely any one was to be found of that name the Venetians tooke occasion by this detestable treason of the said Francis to make the City subiect to them but their Army being defeated by the French in the yeere 1509 by a composition made betweene the French King and the Emperour Maximilian the City became subiect to the said Emperour till the Venetians recouered the same out of his hands in the yeere 1517 vnder whose subiection the City to this day flourisheth in great aboundance of all things On the North-side of the City without the wals is the mountaine Baldo hanging ouer the City and famous for the great plenty of medicinable herbes and vpon the side of this mountaine within the wals are no buildings but onely a strong Fort. On the south side lies the way to Mantua 23 miles distant and vpon the same side lies the foresaid stony plaine fiue miles long and ennobled with many skirmishes battels and victories In this plaine the Consull Caius Marius defeated the Cimbri and Odoacer King of the Heruli who destroied the Westerne Empire was defeated by Theodoricus King of the Ostrogothes and the Dutch Emperour Arnolphus Duke of Bauaria was defeated by Hugh of Burgandy then possessing Italy
them according to the Greeke language for the statua of Isis was at Saint German till it was taken away in the yeere 1514 and a Crosse was set vp in the place thereof by the Bishop of Molun The City hath the name of Lutetia in Latin either of dirt for the Fens adioining or in the Greeke tongue of Morter there digged out because all the floares are of plaster and the houses plastered ouer And some say that it was of old called the City of Iulius Caesar who built great part thereof It lies in the eleuation of the Pole forty eight degrees and the chiefe part thereof namely the Iland or greater City is seated in a fenny ground For the Riuer Seyne hath often ouerflowed Paris and broken downe the bridges In the time of King Phillip Augustus the waters rose to the statuaes without the Cathedrall Church of Saint Mary on the North-side thereof as appeares by an inscription Also in the yeere 1373 for two moneths space they so ouerflowed the City as they passed in boates the streetes of Saint Denis and S. Antoine To conclude omitting many ouerflowings mentioned in Histories it appeares by an inscription in the vally of Misery that in the yeere 1496 there was a great inundation The City of old was all in the Iland and when it could not receiue the multitude increased the City was inlarged to both sides of the continent and first that part of the City called La ville then the third part called the Vniuersity were esteemed suburbes till after they were ioined to the City For the Kings Court and the City still increased with buildings so as the Subburbes were greater then the City whereupon King Charles the fifth gaue them the same priuiledges which the City had and compassed them with wals whereof the ruines yet appeare And new Suburbes being afterwards built King Henry the second in the yeere 〈◊〉 made an Edict that the houses vnpersected should be pulled down and that no more should afterwards be built The Riuer Seyne running from the South and entering at the South-side diuides the City into two parts the greater part whereof towards the East and North lies low in a plaine and is vulgarly called La ville The lesse lying towards the South and West vpon a higher ground is seated betweene hils and is called the Vniuersity Betweene those two parts lies the third namely the Iland called the City which is seated in a plaine and compassed on all sides with the Riuer Seyne running betweene the Ville and the Vniuersity And this part was of old ioined to the Vniuersity with two bridges and to the Ville with three bridges but now a sixth called the new bridge doth moreouer ioine the Iland aswell to the Ville as to the Vniuersity The part of the City called the Ville is compassed on the south and west sides with the Riuer Seyne and vpon the East and North sides with wals rampiers and ditches in the forme of halfe a circle The second part of the City called the Vniuersity is compassed on the East and North sides with the Riuer Seyne and vpon the South and West sides with wals which they write to haue the forme of a hat saue that the long suburbes somewhat alter this forme For my part it seemed to me that ioined with the Iland it had also the forme of another halfe circle though somewhat lesse then the former The third part called the Iland or City is compassed round about with the Riuer Seyne and vpon the South-east side is defended from the floods of the Riuer by foure little Ilands which are marked in the map with blacke ines and lie like Rampiers diuerting the streame from beating on the City To this Iland they passe on both sides by bridges and in respect of the Bishops Pallace he Kings greater Pallace it may be called the heart of the City The old wals of the Ville were first of lesse circuit then now they are for new wals were built which also included the Suburbes and the inner wall is of vnpolished stone the outer wall is of earth compailed round about with ditches which neere the Riuer are broad and full of water but further off towards the North and East are narrow and altogether drie But the old wals are either demolished or conuerted to the supporting of priuate houses The Vniuersity is compassed with like wals and because it is seated vpon high ground the ditches are altogether drie And the wals of earth aswell of the Ville as the Vniuersity are so broad as three or foure may walke together vpon them And round about the City I meane the Ville and Vniuersity compassing the Iland are many rampiers vppon the wall like so many Forts The Iland or City was of old compassed with wals wherewith the greater Pallace lying towards the North at this day is compassed Paris in generall is subiect to the King so as it hath vnder him a peculiar iurisdiction and in spirituall matters it is subiect to the Bishop In the time of King Lewis the eleuenth one hundred and foure thousand Citizens were numbered able to beare armes in the yeere 1466 and King Charles the fifth in the yeere 1371 gaue the Citizens the rights and priuiledges of Gentlemen King Phillip Augustus in the yeere 1090 made Shiriffes to gouerne the City with consular authority and he gaue the City for Armes a ship adorned with Lillies he paued the streetes with flint and compassed the City with wals The Parisians haue raised many seditions The first in the yeere 1306 against rich men raising the rents of houses The second with the King of Nauar and the English against the Dolphin The third in the yeere 1383 against the Kings Treasurers which Charles the sixth returning with his Army out of Flanders did seuerely punish The fourth betweene the factions of Orleans and Burgundy The fifth most pestilent and longest with the Guisians against the last King of Valois The building of the City is for the most part stately of vnpolished stone with the outside plastered and rough cast and the houses for the most part are foure stories high and sometimes sixe besides the roofe which also hath glasse windowes The streetes are somewhat large and among them the fairest is that of Saint Dennis the second Saint Honere the third Saint Antoine and the fourth Saint Martine And in the Iland the waies to these streetes are fairest The pauement is of little but thicke and somewhat broade stones But in the meane time the streetes of the Ville either for the low situation or by the negligence of the Citizens are continually dirty and full of filth The three parts of the City namely the Ville the Iland and the Vniuersity being ioined together are of a round forme which of all others is most capable saue that the halfe circle of the Ville is greater then the other halfe circle which is compassed as it were with the two hornes of
the former And the whole circuit of the City without the wals excluding the suburbes is said to be of sixe miles The market places which are in the streetes are vulgarly called Carrefours as being fouresquare and hauing passage to them on all sides and they are eleuen in number namely foure of the Butchers which vpon a sedition raised by them were diuided into foure tribes the fifth the shambles vpon the mount Saint Genouefa the sixth built for the poore which haue no shops and for the weomen which sell linnen which is vulgarly called La lingeria well knowne for the cosinages of these linnen sellers the seuenth of the brokers vulgarly called La Fripperie the eight and chiefe is in the Iland called Marshes because of the Fenny soyle the ninth is for fishes of the Riuer seated neere the tenth being the little bridge of Saint German of the Vniuersity the eleuenth is without the gate for hogges There be foureteene fountaines besides the fountaine of the Queene and that of the Innocents built of stone The Ville hath eight Hospitals the Vniuersity foure and the Iland two The description of Paris A the Gate Saint Antoine B the Bastile C the gate of the Temple D gate of Saint Martin E gate of Saint Denys F gate Mont-martre G gate Saint Honore H New gate I Le L'ouure K gate Saint Victoire L gate Marcell M gate of Saint Iames N gate Saint Michaell O gate Saint Germain P gate Bussia Q gate Nella R Cathedrall Church S Church Saint Bartholmew T the greater Pallace V Pont denostredame W Pont Au change X Pont aux musniers Y Petit pont Z Pont Saint Michaell XX Pont neuf I will begin the description of the City with the first part thereof called La ville which hath seuen gates from the South east to the North-west I will not speake of the old or inner gates of the old City which gates since the building of the new wals are called false gates as seruing for no vse Onely I will say that they were of the same number and so called as these new gates are and that King Francis the first for comelinesse sake caused them to be demolished The first of these seuen gates lies towards the South-east and is called A Saint Antoine By this gate I entered the City when I came from Chalons and without this gate I did then see the Kings Pallace not farre distant from Paris and most sweet for the seat and building called Bois du' Sainct vincent and then I passed the bridge called Calantoine being without this gate where the Riuer Matrona fals into the Seyne and so entered Paris by the gate and the Church and faire streete of Saint Antoin Neere this gate Francis the first built a fort As I came in on the left hand was the Tower B called the Bastile well knowne by that name which was begun to be built in the yeere 1369 by Hugho Ambriet Prouost of Paris and he being condemned to perpetuall prison for imputed heresie it came to the Kings hand On the same side is the Kings store-house for brasse Ordinance neere the Monastery of the Celestines in whose Church there be many marble sepulchers and among the rest one erected to Lewis of Orleans slaine by the Duke of Burgondy and to his Dutchesse Valentina daughter to the Duke of Milan by King Lewis the twelfth with learned Epitaphs On the same side is the Church of Saint Paul the House of the Queene the house of the Prouost of Paris the publike Senate-house and the place called the Greue famous by the capitall punishment of offenders For in this part of the City called Ville there be three places for the execution of Iustice the other two parts hauing not one place namely this of the Greue and that of the Temple lying on the left hand of the gate called Temple next adioining to this and the third called Luparia lying on the left hand of the scuenth gate called the new gate And from these three places the dead bodies are carried out of the gate of Saint Martin to be buried vpon Mont-falcon And giue me leaue out of order to remember you that Pierre Remy Treasurer and gouernour of France vnder King Charles the faire repaired this Mont-Falcon and that his enemies then wrote vpon the Gallowes standing there this time in French Ence gibeticy ser à pendu Pierre Remy Vpon this gybet here you see Peter Remy hanged shall be And that according to the same hee was in the time of Phillip of Valois hanged there for the ill administration of his office On the right hand as you come in by the same gate of Saint Anthony is a place for Tylting called Tournelles Not far thence at Saint Catherines Church in the Schollers valley is an inscription witnessing that a house was pulled downe to the ground for an arrow shot into the Church when the Rector of the Vniuersity was there at Masse in the yeere 1404 there being at that time a great sedition raised betweene the City and the Vniuersity about a scholler denled with dirt and that this house by permission of the Vniuersity was built againe in the yeere 1516. Also as you come into this gate on the right hand in the Monastery Saint Anthony a dried Crocodill is hung vp which a French Ambassador at Venice left there for a monument in the yeere 1515. And there is a sepulcher of the daughters of King Charles being of blacke marble with their statuaes of white marble Neere that lies the Church yard of Saint Iohn for publike buriall made in the yard of the house of Peter 〈◊〉 which was as pulled downe to the ground in the yeere 1392 because the Constable of France was wounded from thence The second gate towards the East is the gate of the C Temple neere which is the fort called Le Rastillon on your righthand as you come in and this fort or some other in this place was built by Francis the first On the lefthand as you come in is the house of the Templary Knights like a little City for the compasse and from it this gate hath the name And when this order of Knighthood was extinguished their goods were giuen to the Order of Saint Iohn The Church of this house is said to be built like that of Ierusalem and there be the monuments of Bertrand Peter Priors of France the Table of the Altar is curiously painted and here Phillip Villerius Master of the Knights of Saint Iohn was buried in the yeere 1532 to whom a statua of white marble is erected The third gate is called D Saint Martine and it lieth towards the North-east without which gate is the Suburb of Saint Laurence so called of the Church of Saint Laurence The fourth gate is called E Saint Denis and without the same is the Hospitall of Saint Lazarus and the foresaid Mount Falcon and when King Henry the fourth besieged this City he did much
Colledge Cluniacense the Pallace of the Baths which they say was built by Iulius Caesar and is so called either of the bounds of the Tributes or of the Baths of Iulian the Apostata the waters whereof are drawne from a Village adioining and the Colledge of eighteene and vpon the left hand the Colledge of Hericuria the Colledge of Iustice the Colledge of the Treasurers the Colledge Baionium the Colledge Scensa and the Colledge Turonense The fifth Gate on the West side is called O Saint Germain and without the gate is a suburbe all suburbes are vulgarly called Faulxbourg which is large and was pulled downe to the ground in the ciuill war And there King Henry the fourth lay encamped when he besieged the City In this suburbe is the monastery of Saint Germain not inferiour to any in wealth and indowed with great priuiledges and iurisdiction where the old Kings Childebert the second and Ckilperit the fourth and Clotharius the second lie buried and there is a chest of siluer the gift of King Eudo. On the right hand as you come into this Gate in the Minorites Cloyster are the sepulchers of the Queenes and Princes whereof one being of blacke marble with white statuaes is the fairest my memory herein may faile me that there is another Cloyster of Minorites without the gate of Saint Marcellus Also there lie the Colledge Brissiacum and vpon the left hand the house Rothomagensis the Colledge of Burgondy the house of Rhemes the Colledge Mignonium the Colledge Praemonstratense and the Colledge Dinuellium The sixth Gate is called P Bussia and vpon the right hand as you come in lies the Colledge Anthunense and vpon the left hand lies the house Niuernensis The seuenth and last Gate of the Vniuersity lies towards the northwest is called Q Nella and without the same is the meadow of the Clerkes On the right hand as you come in this gate lie the house Nella the Colledge of Saint Denis and the house of the Augustines wherein is the sepulcher and liuely Image of Phillip Comineus And vpon the left hand lie the lower Tower Nella and the Westerne bank of the Riuer Seyne These are the fairest streetes of the Vniuersity the first of Saint Victoire the second of Saint Marcellus the third of Saint Iames the fourth of Saint Germain the fifth of the Celestines vpon the banke of the Riuer the sixth of the mountaine of Saint Genouefa the seuenth of Saint Michaell and the eight of the Augustines vpon the banke of the riuer Seyne The third part of the City is the Iland compassed round about with the Riuer Seyn It had of old foure Gates vpon the foure bridges but seemes to haue had no gate vpon the fifth bridge called Pont aux musniers which in this discription I reckon to be the third gate In the vpper part of the Iland towards the South-east is a fenny market place called the Marsh that is the Fen. Neer that lies R the Cathedrall Church of the blessed Virgin which King Phillip Augustus began to build in the yeere 1257 the foundations being before laid by an vncertaine founder and it is reputed the chiefe among the miracles of France It is supported with one hundred and twenty pillars whereof one hundred and eight are lesse and twelue very great being all of free stone The Chauncell is in the middest of the Church which hath 〈◊〉 walking paces in length and sixty paces in bredth and all the Chauncell is compassed with stone wherein the Histories of the old and new testament are engrauen It hath forty fiue Chappels in the circuit thereof which are shut vp with grates of Iron In the Front it hath two double doores with faire statuaes of twenty eight Kings Vpon the sides are foure Towers or belfreyes thirtie foure Cubits high The greatest bell called Marie requires twentie foure men to ring it and the sound thereof in faire weather may bee heard seuen leagues of In a Chappell towards the South are the statuaes of King Lewis the fat and of his son Phillip with the Image of a hog because he died with a fal from his horse stumbling vpon a hog On the North side is a mark that the ouerflowing of the Riuer Seyne passed the outward statuaes from that of Phillip Augustus King Phillip of Valois hauing gotten a victory against the Flemings in the yeere 1328 offered his Horse and armour to the blessed Virgin and gaue the Chanons an hundred pounds yeerely rent to whom for that cause a Horse-mans statua is there erected Also there is a Giantlike statua erected to Saint Christofer in the yeere 1413 by Antony Dessars Knight In the lower part of the Iland towards the North-West the Church of S Saint Bartholmew is seated which was built by King Phillip the faire and after was turned from the Kings Chappell to a Monastery by King Lotharius in the yeere 973 and then became a parish Church whereof the King in respect of the old Pallace was the chiefe Parishioner and I thinke is so still It became most famous in that the bell of that Church was sounded vpon the verie day of Saint Bartholmew in the yeere 1572 to giue a signe to the Regalists and Guisians that they should kill those of the reformed Religion whom they had drawne to the Citie vnder pretence of loue and could not otherwise haue ouercome as they found by experience of their valour Neere that lyes the Kings greater T Pallace wherein the old Kings kept their Court but it hath since been vsed for the Courts of iustice and pleading of Lawyers In the great Hall hanges vp a dried Crocodil or a Serpent like a Crocodil There bee the painted Images of all the French Kings from Pharamund There is a statua of a Hart with the head and necke of Gold set there in memory of the Treasurers who in the time of King Charles the sixth turned the money in the Exchequer into that forme lest it should be wasted Here was painted vpon the wall neere the Tower vpon the top of the staires of the great Hall the Image of Engueranus Morignon Earle of Longauille and ouerseer of the building of this Pallace vnder King Phillip the faire with this inscription Chascun ' soit content de ses biens Qui n'a suffisance iln ' a riens Be thou content with the goods thee befall Who hath not enough hath nothing at all This was spoken like a Philosopher but the same man vnder Lewis Hatinus was hanged for deceiuing the King and this his Image was broken and kicked downe the staires In the Hall of the Pallace is a Marble Table at which Kings and Emperours were wont to bee feasted The Chamber of the Pallace where verball appeales are decided is called The golden Chamber and it is adorned with stately and faire arched roofes carued and pictures and there the Image of a Lyon with the Head deiected and the Tayle drawne in remembers the Pleaders of their dutie Lewis the
Citie are seated vpon Mountaines yet lower then any other part of the Citie Vpon the higher part of Mount Sion on the same South side towards the West lie many ruines of houses and it is most certaine that the Tower of Dauid and other famous houses there which are now without the walles were of old inclosed within them and that the City extended somewhat further towards the South then now it doth Yet the Hill of Sion is so compassed with knowne Vallies and those Vallies with high Mountaines as this extent could not be great Ierusalem was of old called Moria where they write that Adam was created of red earth is seated vpon Mount Moriah vpon the top wherof towards the North-west is Mount Caluery where they say that Abraham was ready to sacrifice his sonne Isaac and where without doubt our Sauiour Christ suffered and in the lowest part of this Mountaine the Temple of Salomon was seated The Citie was after called Salem and thirdly Iebus and fourthly Ierusalem and at this day the Turkes haue named it 〈◊〉 It is compassed with stately walles the like whereof I did neuer see of red and blacke stone more then an Elle long and about halfe an Elle broad I call them stately for the antiquitie wherein for the most part they much excell the Roman walles I numbred seuen Gates The first of Damasco of old called the Gate of Ephraim on the North side The second of Saint Stephen on the East side which of old had the name of the beasts for sacrifice brought in that way The third the golden Gate also on the East side which at this day is shut and bricked vp The fourth the Gate of presentation on the South-side leading into the Temple of Salomon but at this day shutvp The fifth Sterquilinea also on the South side so called of the filth there carried out The sixth the Gate of Syon also on the South side neare that part of Mount Syon which at this day is without the walles but this Gate hath been newly built The seuenth of Ioppa towards the West also newly built In generall the Gates are nothing lesse then fortified only as it were to terrifie the Christians who enter at the Gate of Ioppa they haue braggingly fortified the same and planted great Ordinance vpon it And howsoeuer the Citie seemes strong enough against sudden tumults yet it is no way able to hold out against a Christian Army well furnished neither doe the Turkes trust to their Forts but to their forces in field The houses here and in all parts of Asia that I haue seene are built of Flint stone very low onely one storie high the top whereof is plaine and plastered and hath battlements almost a yard high and in the day time they hide themselues within the chamber vnder this plastered floare from the Sunne and after Sunne-set walke eate and sleepe vpon the said plastred floare where as they walke each one may see their neighbours sleeping in bed or eating at table But as in the heate of the day they can scarce indure to weare linnen hose so when the Syren or dew falls at night they keepe themselues within dores till it be dried vp or else fling some garment ouer their heads And with this dew of the night all the fields are moistened the falling of raine being very rare in these parts towards the Equinoctiall line and in this place particularly happening onely about the month of October about which time it falles sometimes with great force by whole pales full The houses neare the Temple of Salomon are built with arches into the streete vnder which they walke drie and couered from the Sunne as like wife the houses are built in that sort in that part of the Citie where they shew the house of Herod in both which places the way on both sides the streete is raised for those that walke on foote lying low in the middest for the passage of laded Asses In other parts the Citie lies vninhabited there being onely Monasteriesof diuers Christian Sects with their Gardens And by reason of these waste places and heapes of Flint lying at the dores of the houses and the low building of them some streetes seeme rather ruines then dwelling houses to him that lookes on them neere hand But to them who behold the Citie from eminent places and especially from the most pleasant Mount Oliuet abounding with Oliues and the highest of all the Mountaines the prospect of the Citie and more specially of the Churches and Monasteries which are built with eleuated Glòbes couered with brasse or such glistering mettall promiseth much more beauty of the whole Citie to the beholders eyes then indeed it hath The circuit of the walles containeth some two or three Italian miles All the Citizens are either Tailors Shoomakers Cookes or Smiths which Smiths make their keyes and lockes not of Iron but of wood and in generall poore rascall people mingled of the scumme of diuers Nations partly Arabians partly Moores partly the basest inhabitants of neighbour Countries by which kind of people all the adioyning Territorie is likewise inhabited The Iewes in Turky are distinguished from others by red hats and being practicall doe liue for the most part vpon the sea-coasts and few or none of them come to this Citie inhabited by Christians that hate them and which should haue no traffique if the Christian Monasteries were taken away Finally the Inhabitants of Ierusalem at this day are as wicked as they were when they crucified our Lord gladly taking all occasions to vse Christians despitefully They esteemed vs Princes because wee wore gloues and brought with vs shirts and like necessaries though otherwise we were most poorely appareled yet when we went to see the monuments they sent out their boyes to scorne vs who leaped vpon our backes from the higher parts of the streete we passing in the lower part and snatched from vs our hats and other things while their fathers were no lesse ready to doe vs all iniuries which we were forced to beare silently and with incredible patience Hence it was that Robert Duke of Normandy being sicke and carried into Ierusalem vpon the backs of like rascalls when he met by the way a friend who then was returning into Europe desiring to know what hee would command him to his friends hee earnestly intreated him to tell them that he saw Duke Robert caried into heauen vpon the backs of Diuels The description of the Citie and the Territorie Now followes the explication of the Citie described and first the small Line drawne within the present walles on the West side of the Citie shewes the old walles thereof before Mount Caluery was inclosed within the walles by the Christian Kings for now there remaine no ruines of the old walles this line being onely imaginarie 1 Mount Sion without the walles for part of it is yet inclosed with them 2 The faire Castle which was built by the Pisans of Italy while yet
diet Their sheepe are very little bearing a course wooll and commonly blacke which they export not but make course cloath thereof for the poorer sort the Gentlemen and for the most part the Citizens wearing English cloath The libertie of hunting commonly reserued to Princes and absolute Lords and they haue great store of red Deare feeding in open Woods which the Princes kill by hundreds at a time and send them to their Castlas to be salted vsing them in stead of beefe for the feeding of their families They haue no fallow Deare except some wild kinds vpon the Alpes They haue great store of fresh fish in Lakes Ponds and Riuers among which the Lakes of Sweitzerland are most commended At Hamburg they catch such plentie of Sallmons as it is a common report that the seruants made couenant with their Masters not to bee fed therewith more then two meales in the weeke and from thence great plentie of Sturgeon is exported Either the cold driues away birds or else they labour not to take them for I did seldome see them ferued at the table but onely Sparrowes and some few little birds In all their Riuers I did neuer see any Swannes yet they say that at Lubeck and about priuate Castles of Gentlemen they haue some few They say that they haue some mines of Gold but surely they abound with mines of Siluer aboue all Europe and all mettals where so euer found are by a Law of the Golden Bull appropriated to the Emperour and to the Electors in their seuerall dominions Also they abound with copper and brasse where with they couer many Churches but within forty yeeres past the English haue brought them Leade which they vse to that and other purposes Also they haue great plenty of Iron and they haue Fountaines yeelding most white Salt in Cities farre within the land which Cities are commonly called Halla Austria beyond the Danow yeelds excellent Saffron and at Iudiburg in Styria growes store of Spica Celtica as the Latin Herbalists call it In the season of the yeere yellow Amber is plentifully gathered vpon the Sea coast of Prusfia and Pomerania The Germans export into forraigne parts and there sell many curious and well prised workes of manuall Art And it is worth the consideration that the Citizens of Nurnberg dwelling in a sandy and baeren soile by their industrie and more specially by their skill in these manuall Arts liue plentifully and attaine great riches while on the contrary the inhabitants of Alsatia the most fruitfull Prouince of all Germany neglecting these Arts and content to enioy the fatnesse of their soyle in slothfull rest are the poorest of all other Germans Moreouer the vpper part of Germany abounds with Woods of Firre which tree as the Lawrell is greene all Winter and it hath many Okes also vpon the Alpes and not else where and lower Germany especially towards the Baltick Sea aboundeth with Woods of Oke They conuey great store of wood from the Alpes into the lower parts by the Riuer Rheine cutting downe whole trees and when they are marked casting them one by one into the Riuer to be carried downe with the violent streame thereof or otherwise binding many together to floate downe with men standing vpon them to guide them And at many Cities and Villages they haue seruants which know the trees by the markes and gather them vp in places where they may best be sold. The Cities that are one the Sea-coast on the North side of Germany haue very great ships but more fit for taking in great burthen then for sayling or fighting which the Netherlanders more commonly fraught with their commodities then the Germans themselues neither are the German Marriners much to bee commended The German Sea in good part and the Baltick Sea altogether are free from Pyrats which is the cause that their ships are little or not at all armed onely some few that trade into Spaine carry great Ordinance but are generally made large in the ribs rather fit for burthen then fight at Sea I neuer obserued them to haue any common prayers morning or euening as our English ships haue while they bee at Sea but the Marriners of their owne accord vse continually to sing Psalmes and they are punished by the purse who sweare or so much as once name the diuell from which they abhorre And herein they deserue to be praysed aboue the Holanders in whose ships a man shall heare no mention of God or his worship The said free Cities of Germany lying on the Sea-coast are called Hansen-stetten that is free Cities because they had of old in all neighbour Kingdoms great priuiledges of buying any wares as wel of strangers as Citizens and of selling or exchanging their own wares to either sort at pleasure and to bring in or carry out all commodities by their owne shippes with like immunities equall to Citizens in all the said Dominions and no lesse preiudiciall to them then aduantageous to themselues In England they were wont to dwell together at London in the house called the Stilyard and there to enioy these liberties which long since haue laine dead the Germans seldome bringing ought in their ships into England and the English hauing now long time found it more commodious to vse their owne shipping and iustly complaining that the English had not the like priuiledges in the said free Cities for which cause the priuiledges of the Germans were laid dead in England though not fully taken away Caesar witnesseth that the Schwaben inhabiting Suenia then containing great part of Germany admitted Merchants not to buy any thing themselues but onely to sell the spoyles they got in warre But Munster a German writes that these Sueuians or schwaben are now the onely forestallers of all things sold in faires or Markets and that for this cause they are excluded from buying any thing through Germany except it bee sold in their owne Townes of trafficke In generall the Germans doe applie themselues industriously to all trafficke by land which onely the free Cities on the Sea-coast exercise somewhat coldly by sea At home the Germans among themselues spend and export an vnspeakeable quantity of Beere with great gaine which yeelds great profit to priuate Citizens and to the Princes or publike Senate in free Cities there being no Merchandize of the World that more easily findes a buyer in Germany then this For the Germans trafficke with strangers I will omit small commodities which are often sold though in lesse quantitie yet with more gaine then greater and in this place I will onely speake of the commodities of greater moment aswell those that the Country affords as those that buy in forraigne parts to be transported in their owne ships The Germans export into Italy linnen clothes corne wax fetcht from Dantzk and those parts and coyned filuer of their owne which they also exchange vncoined with some quantity of gold Into England they export boards iron course linnen clothes and of that
a stranger and a boat daily passeth from Stode thither in some three houres space if the winde bee not contrary wherein each man paies three Lubecke shillings for his passage but all Passengers without difference of condition must help to rowe or hire one in his stead except the winde bee good so as they need not vse their Oares besides that the annoyance of base companions will easily offend one that is any thing nice Hamburg is a Free Citie of the Empire and one of them which as I said are called Hansteten and for the building and populousnesse is much to be praised The Senate house is very beautifull and is adorned with carued statuaes of the nine Worthies The Exchange where the Merchants meet is a very pleasant place The Hauen is shut vp with an iron chaine The Citie is compassed with a deepe ditch and vpon the East and North sides with a double ditch and wall Water is brought to the Citie from an Hil distant some English mile by pipes of wood because those of lead would be broken by the yce and these pipes are to bee seene vnder the bridge whence the water is conuaied by them vnto each Citizens house The Territory of the Citie extendeth a mile or two and on one side three miles out of the walles It hath nine Churches and six gates called by the Cities to which they lead It is seated in a large plaine and a sandy soyle but hath very fatte pasture ground without On the South side and some part of the West it is washed with the Riuer Elue which also putteth a branch into the Towne but on the North and somewhat on the East side the Riuer Alster runneth by towards Stode and falleth into the Elue The streets are narrow excepting one which is called Broad-street vulgarly Breitgasse The building is all of bricke as in all the other Sea-bordering Cities lying from these parts towards Flanders and all the beautie of the houses is in the first entrance hauing broad and faire gates into a large Hal the lower part whereof on both sides is vsed for a Ware-house and in the vpper part lying to the view of the doore the chiefe houshold-stuffe is placed and especially their vessell of English Pewter which being kept bright makes a glittering shew to them that passe by so as the houses promise more beauty outwardly then they haue inwardly Here I paid each meale foure Lubeck shillings and one each night for my bed The Citizens are vnmeasurably ill affected to the English to whom or to any stranger it is vnsafe to walke out of the gates after noone for when the common people are once warmed with drinke they are apt to doe them iniury My selfe one day passing by some that were vnloading and telling of Billets heard them say these words Wirft den zehenden auff des Englanders kopf that is cast the tenth at the Englishmans head But I and my companions knowing well their malice to the English for the remouing their trafficke to Stode were content silently to passe by as if we vnderstood them not Hence I went out of the way to see Lubeck an Imperiall Citie and one of the aboue named Hans-townes being tenne miles distant from Hamburg Each of vs for our Coach paid twentie Lubeck shillings and going forth early wee passed through a marish and sandy plaine and many woods of Oakes which in these parts are frequent as woods of Firre be in the vpper part of Germany and hauing gone six miles we came to a Village called Altslow for the situation in a great marish or boggy ground where each man paid for his dinner fiue Lubeck shillings and a halfe our Dutch companions contributing halfe that money for drinke after dinner In the afternoone we passed the other foure miles to Lubeck in the space of foure houres and vntill we came within halfe a mile of the towne wee passed through some thicke woods of Oake with some faire pastures betweene them for the Germans vse to preserue their woods to the vttermost either for beautie or because they are so huge frequent as they cannot be consumed When we came out of the woods wee saw two faire rising Hills and the third vpon which Lubeck was feated On the top of this third Hill stood the faire Church of Saint Mary whence there was a descent to all the gates of the Citie whose situation offered to our eyes a faire prospect and promised great magnificence in the building The Citie is compassed with a double wall one of bricke and narrow the other of earth and broad fastned with thicke rowes of willowes But on the North side and on the South-east side there were no walles those parts being compassed with deepe ditches full of water On the South-east side the water seemeth narrow but is so deepe as ships of a thousand tunne are brought vp to the Citie to lie there all winter being first vnladed at Tremuren the Port of the City lying vpon the Baltick Sea To this Port one mile distant from Lubeck we came in three houres each man paying for his Coach fiue Lubeck shillings and foure for our dinner and returned backe the same night to Lubeck The building of this City is very beautifull all of bricke and it hath most sweete walkes without the walles The Citizens are curious to auoid ill smels to which end the Butchers haue a place for killing their beasts without the walles vpon a running streame Water is brought to euery Citizens house by pipes and all the Brewers dwelling in one street haue each of them his iron Cock which being turned the water fals into their vessels Though the building of this towne be of the same matter as that of the neighbouring townes yet it is much preferred before them for the beautie and vniformitie of the houses for the pleasant gardens faire streets sweete walkes without the walles and for the Citizens themselues who are much commended for ciuilty of manners and the strict execution of Iustice. The poore dwell in the remote-streets out of the common passages There is a street called the Funst Haussgasse that is the street of fiue houses because in the yeere 1278. it was all burnt excepting fiue houses since which time they haue a law that no man shall build of timber and clay except he diuide his house from his neighbours with a bricke wall three foot broad and that no man shall couer his house with any thing but tiles brasse or leade The forme of this Citie is like a lozing thicke in the midst and growing narrower towards the two ends the length whereof is from the gate called Burke Port towards the South to Millen Port towards the North. Wee entred the Towne by Holtz Port on the West side to which gate Hickster Port is opposite on the East side It is as long againe as broad and two streets Breitgasse that is Broad-street and Konnigsgasse that is Kings-street runne the whole
length of the Towne and sixe other streets make the breadth and if you stand in the midst of any of these streets you may there see both the ends thereof Here I paied each meale foure Lubeck shillings hauing my bed free for a quart of Rhenish wine fiue Lubeck shillings and as much for Sack neither doe I remember that euer I had a more pleasant abiding in Germany either for the sweetnes of the place the curtesie of the people or my diet The Citizens are very courteous to all strangers whom the Lawes extraordinarily fauour aboue the natiues so they onely abide there for a time and be not inhabitants neither are they lesse friendly to the English though they complaine of iniuries so they call them offered them by vs at Sea This City hath many things worth the seeing There be tenne faire Churches whereof one was vsed for an Armory of all munitions for warre Saint Maries Cathedrall Church vulgarly Vnserfraw kirke is fairer then the rest where there is a faire and artificiall Clocke in the top whereof is a picture whereof both the eares of the head are seene which Painters esteeme a master worke In the Porch thereof are three Marble pillars each of them thirtie foot long of one stone onely one of them is peeced for one foot But the Image of the Virgin Mary in this Church and of Christ crucified in Burk Kirke are thought workes of singular art for which they say a Spanish Merchant offered a masse of money I will confesse truely that my selfe beholding the Virgins statua all of stone did thinke it had beene couered with a gowne of white buffin and that being altogether vnskilfull in the grauing Art yet I much admired the workmanship Without Millen Port there is a Conduit of water which serues all the Towne the more notable because it was the first of that kinde which since hath beene dispersed to London and other places On al sides out of the towne there be sweet walks especially towards Hierusalem so they call the Passion of Christ grauen in diuers pillars where also is a pleasant groue vnder the shade whereof Rope-makers and like Artificers vse to worke The Canons of the Cathedrall Church haue great priuiledges and as it were an absolute power ouer themselues and of old they had a gate of the City free to themselues to goe in or out at pleasure till the Citizens finding how dangerous it was to the maintaining of their freedome from any subiection vpon a good opportunitie when the Emperour came thither did of set purpose lead him into the City by that gate where falling on their knees they besought him that it might be bricked vp and neuer more opened he being the last man that euer should enter thereat From Lubeck we tooke our iourney to Luneburg being tenne miles distant and the first night we lodged in a Village called Millen where a famous lester Oulenspiegell whom we call Owly-glasse hath a Monument erected hee died in the yeere 1350. and the stone couering him is compassed with a grate least it should bee broken and carried away peece-meale by Passengers which they say hath once already been done by the Germanes The Towns-men yeerely keepe a feast for his memory and yet shew the apparell he was wont to weare This Country is barren and sandy ground full of thicke Woods of Oakes by the way in Kasborough Castle they said that a Duke of inferior Saxony lay imprisoned by the Emperours command his brother gouerning the Dukedome charged with great debts by his prodigality but his Villages hereabouts were possessed by the Hamburgers and Lubeckers by right of morgage We passed the Elue twice the Coach-man paying for himselfe his Coach and each one of vs a Lubeck shilling and beyond the Elue the ground was somewhat more fertile At Millen I paid for my supper foure Lubeck shillings and a halfe The next day we came to Luneburg which by the Citizens for defence of their libertie was strongly fortified for it is one of the free Imperiall Cities but the Duke of Luneburg challengeth a superiority ouer it The walles built of earth are high and broad and the ditches very deepe The building is very faire especially that of the Senate house and almost all the houses are of bricke They haue two large market places and the streets are broad but very filthy and full of ill smels The City it selfe being almost of a round forme is seated in a Valley but hath Mountaines neere it on the West side and further off on the East An high Mountaine called Kalkberg hangeth ouer it on the North side in the top whereof is a strong Castle which the Citizens had got into their hands some threescore yeres before my being there Not far from the City is a Monestary called Luna whereof some say the Towne was named others say it had the name of the Riuer running by it now called Eluenau of eleuen Riuers running into it which Histories testifie to haue beene called Luna of old But others proue both the Riuer and the Towne to haue had their names of the Idol Isis bearing two hornes of the Moone which was kept in the Castle vpon Kalkberg and worshipped by the people Among the things best deseruing to be seen is the Fountaine of Salt and the house wherein salt is boyled ouer the gate whereof these verses are written Ecce salinarum dulcissima dona coquuntur Gratuita summi de bonitate Dei Mons Pons Fons tna dona Deus da pectore crescat In nostro pietas nec minuatur Amor. Behold of finest salt this Fount doth store afford By the Almighties grace and free gift from aboue The Mountaine Bridge and Fountaine are thy gifts O Lord For which let vs increase in pietie and loue To all the poore round about and to all the Citizens for their priuate vse salt water is freely giuen and they say this Fountaine once lost his vertue when they denied to giue water to the poore Euery one giues the Porter a small reward when he comes in not when he goes out as otherwhere is vsed for this is proper to the Germanes that they will be paied ere they begin to worke as if they had done The profit of this salt Fountaine is diuided into diuers parts some to the City some to the Duke of Luneberg who howsoeuer he be so called yet hath no power ouer the City but onely ouer the Countrey some belongs to the Monastary and diuers Earles haue their parts whereof some boyle not the salt in their owne name but set it out to others There be fifty two roomes and in each of them eight leaden pannes in which eight tunnes of salt are daily boyled and each tunne is worth eight Flemmish shillings In the said Monastery within the Towne they shew a table of gold which Henry Leo Duke of Saxony tooke from Milan and placed here and it is fastned to the Altar being more then an ell and
village Starres and wee passed through goodly cornehils and faire woods of firre and birtch The City Misen is round in forme and almost all the houses are built on the falling sides of Mountaines which compassing all the City open towards the East where Elue runneth by Duke Fredericke surnamed The wise and Duke George surnamed papisticall are buried in the Cathedrall Church Here I paid six grosh euery meale The City is subiect to the Duke of Saxony hauing the same name with the whole Countrey in which it lieth Hence wee went three miles to Dresden in a Coach hired as aforesaid and passed through sandy and stony Hils some fruitfull vallies of corne and two Woods of firre whereof there bee many neere Dresden whither being come I paied sixe grosh for my dinner This City of Dresden is very faire and strongly fortified in which the Elector of Saxony keepes his Court hauing beene forty yeeres past onely a village When the first stone of the wals was laid there were hidden a siluer cup guilded a Booke of the Lawes another of the coynes and three glasses filled with wine the Ceremonies being performed with all kind of Musicke and solemnity The like Ceremony was vsed when they laid the first stone of the stable The City is of a round forme seated in a Plaine running betweene two Mountaines but some what distant and the houses are faire built of free stone foure or fiue roofes high whereof the highest roofe after the Italian fashion is little raised in steepnesse so that the tops of the houses appeare not ouer the walles excepting the Electors Castle built betwixt the North and West side and the Church Tower built betweene the West and East side In this Tower the watchmen dwell who in the day time giue notice by Flags hung out what number of foot or horse are comming towards the Towne To which Tower they ascend by two hundred seuenty staires and in the top two Demiculuerins are planted Wee entred on the East side through old Dresden being walled about and so passed the Elue compassing the walles of new Dresden on the East side by a Bridge of stone hauing seuenteene arches vnder which halfe the ground is not couered with water except it be with a floud Vpon the Bridge we passed three gates and at the end entred the City by the fourth where the garrison Souldiers write the names of those that come in and lead them to the Innes where the Hostes againe take their names The City hath but two little Suburbs The Citizens were then as busie as Bees in fortifying the City which the Elector then made very strong The ground riseth on all sides towards the Towne and the new City hath foure Gates Welsh-thore Siegeld-thore New-thore and Salomons-thore and is compassed with two walles betweene which round about there is a garden from which men may ascend or descend to it at each Gate Ouer the outward wall there is a couered or close Gallery priuate to the Elector who therein may compasse the Towne vnseene Hee hath vsed the best wits of Germany and Italy in this fortification wherein he hath spared no cost The walles are high and broad of earth whose foundation is of stone and they are on all sides furnished with great Artillery yea in that time of peace the streets were shut with iron chaines at eating times and all night The Electors stable is by much the fairest that euer I saw which I will briefly describe In the first Court there is a Horse-bath into which they may bring as much or little water as they list and it hath 22. pillars in each whereof diuers Armes of the Duke are grauen according to the diuers families whose Armes he giues The same Court serues for a Tilting-yard and all exercises of Horse-manship and there is also the Horse-leaches shop so well furnished as if it belonged to a rich Apothecary The building of the stable is foure square but the side towards the Dukes Pallace is all taken vp with two gates and a little Court yard which takes vp halfe this side and round about the same are little cuboords peculiar to the horsemen in which they dispose all the furniture fit for riding The other three sides of the quadrangle contained some 136. choise and rare Horses hauing onely two other gates leading into the Cities market place opposite to those gates towards the Court. These horses are all of forraine Countries for there is another stable for Dutch horses and among these chiefe horses one named Michael Schatz that is Michaell the Treasure was said to be of wonderfull swiftnesse before each horses nose was a glasse window with a curtaine of greene cloth to be drawne at pleasure each horse was couered with a red mantle the racke was of iron the manger of copper at the buttocke of each horse was a pillar of wood which had a brasen shield where by the turning of a pipe he was watered and in this piller was a cuboord to lay vp the horses combe and like necessaries and aboue the backe of each horse hung his bridleand saddle so as the horses might as it were in a moment be furnished Aboue this stable is a gallery on one side adorned with the statuaes of horses their riders with their complete Armours fifty in number besides many Armours lying by the wals On the other side is a gallery hauing forty like statuaes thirty six sledges which they vse in Misen not only to iourney in time of snow but also for festiuall pompes For in those Cities especially at Shrouetide and when much snow falleth they vse to sit vpon sledges drawne with a horse furnished with many bels at the foote of which sledge they many times place their Mistresses and if in running or sudden turning the rider or his Mistresse slip or take a fall it is held a great disgrace to the rider Some of these sledges are very sumptuous as of vnpurified siluer as it comes from the Mines others are fairely couered with velvet and like stuffes Aboue the forepart of the stable towards the market place are the chambers wherein the Elector feasts with Ambassadors In the window of the first chamber or stoue being a bay window towards the street is a round table of marble with many inscriptions perswading temperance such as are these Aut nulla Ebrietas aut tanta sit vt tibi cur as Demat. Be not drunken in youth or age Or no more then may cares asswage Againe Plures crapula quam ensis Gluttony kils more then the sword Yet I dare say that notwithstanding all these good precepts few or none euer rose or rather were not carried as vnable to goe from that table Twelue little marble chaires belong to this table and the pauement of the roome is marble and close by the table there is a Rocke curiously carued with images of fishes and creeping things This Rocke putteth forth many sharpe pinacles of stone vpon which the
vessels of gold and siluer are set forth at the feasts and when the drinking is at hottest the statua of a horseman by worke of great Art comes out of the Rocke and presents each stranger with a huge boule of wine which he must drinke off for his welcome without expecting that any should pledg him In the next chamber belonging to this stoue is a bedstead of marble and both haue hangings of gold lether There is another chamber and another stoue like these and aboue them in the vppermost loft there be many little roomes whereof one is furnished with speares another with saddles among them I remember one which in the pummell borea gilded head with eyes continually mouing in the hinder part had a clocke the rest are furnished with swords shields helmets and fethers Among the swords euery Prince hath his owne which the successours vse not to weare and there is one belonging to the Electorship when he exerciseth his office as Marshal of the Empire There was another Sword hauing in the hilt two little Pistols Here I saw laid vp an Iron chaine in which they said that Duke Henry the Father of Manrice the first Elector of this Family should haue beene hanged in the Low Countries who escaping brought the same with him and laid it vp here for memory After the Funerall of Christianus returning from Friburg to this Towne I found onely fifteene of those choice Horses in the stable all the rest hauing beene giuen to Princes comming to the Funerall The Dukes Pallace in Dresà en was built by Mauricius part of the City wals and the gates were built by Augustus who did also lay the foundation of this Stable But Christianus the Elector perfected the wals of the City with the close gallery ouer them and built this famous stable setting this inscription vpon the wals in Latine Christianus Duke of Saxony Heire to Augustus the Elector of happy memory and imitator of his vertues caused this Stable to be built and the Yard adioyning to be fitted for Tilting and military exercises the present age c. The Armory at Dresden is no lesse worth the noting wherein were Armes and all kind of munition for seuenty thousand men but of late it had been somewhat emptied by an expedition into France vndertaken by the Duke at the solicitation of the Count of Turin Ambassadour for Henry the fourth King of France The Duke was at great charge in keeping Garison Souldiers at Dresden and Officers as well for the stable as the Armory In these parts and no where else in Germany they vse boats of a hollow tree driuen not by Oares but by battledores whereof I saw many vpon the Elue as likewise water mils swimming vpon boates and remoued from place to place the like whereof was since made at London by a Dutchman but became vnprofitable by the ebbing and flowing of Thames At Dresden I paid seuen grosh a meale Hence in our Coach hired as aforesaid we passed foure miles to Friburg through fruitful Hils and Mountaines of corne but few or no Woods and here we paid each man fixe grosh a meale This City is of a round forme compassed of all sides with Mountaines hauing many Vauts or Caues vnder it by which the Citizens enter and goe out of the City by night to worke in the siluer Mines Yet hath the City two walles and two ditches but altogether dry It hath fiue gates and foure Churches among which Saint Peter's Church is the fairest The Elector hath his Castle in the City and in the Church as I remember of Saint Peter wherein the Dukes vse to be buried Mauricius hath a very faire monument of blacke Marble raised in three piles whereof each is decked with diuets statuaes of white Marble and Alablaster whereof two Belong to Mauricius the one in posture of praying the other armed and receining a deadly wound Two Monuments were begun but not then perfected for Augustus and Christianus The territory of Friburg abounds with siluer Mines wherof some and fine hundred fadomes deepe some seuen hundred and some nine hundred and after each thirty fadomes the earth is supported with great beames of timber lest it should fall and from each of these buildings winding staires of wood are made to descend to the bottome The Citizens liue of these Mines and grow rich thereby whereof the Elector hath his proper part and vseth to buy the parts of the Citizens The worke-men vse burning Lampes vnder the earth both day and night and vse to worke as well by night as by day and they report that comming neere the purest veins of siluer they are often troubled with euill spirits These worke-men goe out to the Mines by night through the Caues vnder the City and being called backe from worke by the sound of a bell they come in the same way The water which the worke-men vse springeth in a mountain an arrow shot from the Town whence falling to a lower mountaine it is conuaied by hollow trees to fall vpon the wheeles of the mils so as a little quantity thereof driueth them These Mils draw the water vp out of the Mines for the depth of forty fadome whence it runneth in pipes towards the City Whe they try purify the siluer first with water they wash away the red earth then they beat the mettall with a hand hammer and thus broken they cast it into the fire which they make in the open ayre lest the workmen should be stifled with the fume of the brimstone Then they melt the mettall six times by a fire made of whole trees in a little house adioyning Then in another house they seuer the mettall from the earth with a siue Then againe they beat the mettall with an hammer driuen by a Mill and thus beaten they wash it vpon three clothes hanging slopewise and the purest siluer stickes to the vppermost cloth This done they melt it againe six times and the best of the drosse is lead and siluer the rest copper and this siluer and lead being againe melted the lead falles from the siluer like dust The fier wherein they try this siluer is so hot as it consumeth the bricke Furnaces in three daies The workemen besides their hier vse to bee rewarded for expedition of the worke The meanes by which they find siluer are very strange being by a rod which vulgarly they call Chassel-wand or the Diuine Rod which they carry in their hands and when they goe ouer siluer they say the Rod bends or breakes if it be straightly held and there were not aboue seuen men in this Citie which had skill of this mystery The waies are planted with trees to direct passengers lest as they goe to the Citie they should fall into the Mines for as they report it hath often happened that the Citizens themselues haue perished in this sort and the like mischance happened lately to fiue workemen though skilfull in the waies These Mines of Friburg were
armes diuide the City and the Suburbs on that side are more strongly fortified then other where The City ioyned with the Suburbs is of a round forme and in the Suburbs on this side the Fugares haue built many houses to be let for a gulden yeerely to the poore that are Papists On the North side the wals are higher built and the ditches are deepe filled with water and there be foure other gates this side of the City lying lowest the fields without are as I said all drowned with water Here each man paid for each meale six or seuen Batzen I paid for two meales and my horse meat twenty three Batzen This City hath a very faire conduit called the Stately Workmanship vulgarly Statlich Kunst and the fountaine of the water is ten miles from the City There be ten very faire Churches In the Cathedrall Church it is written in golden letters that the bowels of Otho the Emperour are buried there Also there is a curious picture of Christ praying in the garden whilst his Disciples slept and vpon a very faire Clocke are three statuaes of the three Kings of Colen so they call the Wise Men of the East and these carried about by a circle of iron worship Christ when the Clocke strikes In the Senate House where the imperiall Parliaments vulgarly called Reichs-tagen haue often beene held I found nothing to answere the magnificence of this City onely on the gates this is written Wise men build vpon the Rocke Fooles vpon the Sand for I said this part of the City on the West side was built vpon a stony hill In the Iesuites Church the Altar is of siluer gilded ouer and another Altar of Christs Natiuity is curiously painted like the barks of trees Augsburg called of the Vandals for distinction from Augsburg Rauracorum in Sweitzerland is diuided from the Vandals by the Brooke Lycus and being of old a City of Rhetia now is reckoned the metropolitane City of Suenia vulgarly Schwaben is said said to haue beene built by the sonne of Iaphet sixe hundred yeeres before Rome was builded Of old they had a yeerely feast to Ceres and now vpon the same day they haue a Faire and for the fruitfulnesse of the soyle the City giues a sheaue of corne for their Armes This City was vtterly destroyed by Attila King of the Hunnes and when he was dead was rebuilt againe It is a free Citie of the Empire which are vulgarly called Retchs-statt and as other free Cities it is gouerned by Senators There bee many Almes houses for the poore and one wherein foure hundreth are nourished by rents of land and houses giuen to that house of old by good men The Citie is seated vpon the Northern mouth of the Alpes in a fruitfull plaine of corne and pastures and Hils full of game for hunting and it may bee gathered how populous it is by that a German Author writes that in a yeere when no plague raigned 1705 were baptized and 1227 buried Being constant in my purpose taken at Nurnberg to goe from Auspurge to the West parts of Germany and so into the Low-countries yet I wil remember the Reader that he shall finde the iourney from Augspurg to Venice described in my voyage from Stode to Venice and thence to Hierusalem From Augspurg I rode to Vlme and thence to Lindawe and all the way hired my horse for sixe or seuen Batzen a day paying for the daies in which my horse returned and hyring footmen to bring them backe and bearing their charges The first day I rode foure miles thorow the territory of the Fugars and the Bishop of Tilleng and one mile in the territory of the Arch-Duke of Austria of the house of Inspruch in a mountainous Countrey full of Woods of Iuniper Ashes Oakes and Beaches to Burg where each man paid for his dinner and horsemeat eight Batzen In the afternoone I rode foure miles to Vlme through a fruitfull plaine of corne Entring the City we passed by a Bridge the Riuer Danow which though running in a plaine yet hath a most violent course so as boats carried downe the streame vse to be sold at the place wherethey land it being very difficult to bring them backe again yet some Barkes of burthen are sometimes drawne backe by the force of horses My selfe haue seene tenne horses drawing one Barke but they vse a greater number according to occasion some thirty or more as they report and he that rides on the horse neerest the Barke is called Wage-halse that is Necke venturer because hce and the horse are often drawn vnder the water till the other horses draw them out again This Riuer hath foure great water fals vvhereof the greatest is at Struddle eighteene miles from Vienna vvhich is hardly to be passed except it be in a floud And the multitude of Bridges are very dangerous for boats by reason of the violent streame and especially because the Marriners are many times drunken or negligent They vse for a charme to sprinkle their drawing horses with water and vse with continuall loud cries to make them draw This Nauigation is very necessary that the lower Oestreich being fertill may supply the vpper being barren with wine and corne Munster writeth of two fals of this Riuer one below Lintz where the waters make a terrible noyse beating vpon the rocky bed the other at Gryn vvhere the water makes a dangerous whirle-poole of vnsearchable depth Vlme is seated in Schwaben or Sueuia as Augspurge is and hath his name of Elme trees Charles the Great built a Monastery in this Village which in time grew to a City and vnder the Emperour Fredrick the third bought their freedome of the Monkes The building thereof is of wood and clay The order of Knights called in Latine Teutonicus was in old time of great power and hath yet a house in this Citie It hath one stately Church in the Yard whereof the Mount Oliuet is curiously ingrauen It hath a faire Senate house and the Armory hath such store of Ordinance and all Munitions as it yeeldeth not therein to the proudest City in Germany The writing Tables made in this City are famous for their goodnesse and are thence carried into forraine parts The diet of the Innes of this City seated in a most fertill soyle is very plentifull both in meats and banquets where each man paied for his dinner seuen Batzen In this Country they drinke nothing but wine as they doe in all vpper Germany but it is sharpe and the Masse or measure is sold for three Batzen When wee were at dinner a Tumbler came in and being admitted to shew his cunning hee stood vpon his head and dranke a measure of wine which seemed strange to the beholders After dinner we rode a mile in a pleasant valley vpon the Danow which wee passed and rode two miles further in the like fertill plaine which is very large and by all men much commended for the fruitfull pastures thereof And so wee
came to Baltring subiect to a little free Citie called Bubery and here each man paied fiue Batzen for dinner and three for horse-meat Next morning after a miles riding we came to the City Bubery and rode two miles further to Waldshut through woody Mountaines and corne vallies which were so boggey as many times wee had almost stuck fast The Countrey belongs to the Arch-Duke of the family of Inspruck and heere wee paied each man nine Batzen for dinner and horsemeat After dinner wee rode two miles through a woody Country to Rauenspurg a free Citie seated betweene Mountaines whereof one hangeth ouer it and the Riuer Ach runneth by it in a narrow bed so as the waters falling from the Mountaines very swiftly doe many times ouerflow to the great damage of the Countrey and from the Mountaines many woodden pipes conuey water to the City In these parts bee many Almes houses for those that are infected with Leprosie who may not come neere the Passengers but doe beg of them a farre off with the sound of a woodden clapper Heere each man paid for his supper and horse-meat twelue Batzen and a halfe The first day of May we rode three miles one through a Wood the rest through a plaine of corne and inclosed pastures and Hils planted with Vines to the City Lindaw By the way vve saw the house of Count Montfort and passed the Riuer Arba by a Bridge which doth often ouerflow the plaine doing great hurt and there wee paid halfe a Creitzer tribute to the said Count for each man We were now come out of Sueuia and had rode two miles in Algoia and on the left hand towards the South we discouered the mouth of the Alpes which in this place is called Spliego Lindaw is a free City of the Empire which freedome it bought in the yeere 1166 and it is almost an I and seated in the lake called Acronius vulgarly Bodensea being ioyned to the continent by a Bridge of stone on the North-east side where it hath onely one gate called Burg-thore by which wee entred On this side the fields are very pleasant and planted with Vines and neere the Bridge there is a Rampier so old as they say it was erected by the Heathen before any Christians were Hence the City lies in length towards the South West partly on the West and altogether on the South side lies the lake Bodensea that is vpper sea close by the houses of the Citizens where they descend by staires to take water Beyond the lake are most high Mountaines which were then couered with snow and at the foot of the highest Mountaines there is a Tower which they report to be built by Hannibal neere which is the place famous by the defeat of Hasdrubal On this side the City they shew a stone whence they say the Saint called Aurelia passed the lake woe to them that beleeue at one step The Riuer Bregets falleth most violently from the said Mountaines whence also the Rheine discendeth in a narrow bed and may bee passed with horse and foot when it ouerfloweth not Both these runne into the Lake and the Rheine till it come out of the Lake againe loseth the name There is but one Church in the City besides a ruined Monastery The Citizens draw their water to seethe their meat and mingle it with wine not out of the Lake but from Wels. Three Consuls chosen for life and twenty Senators gouerne the City Beyond the Lake in the Territorie of the Arch Dukes of Austria is a bath of great vertue and a Monastery built by Otho the second with great priuiledges vpon a vow hee made being in great danger when he passed the Lake and there murtherers haue a sanctuary There is much salt made in the City and carried thence to other parts Heere I paied each meale six Batzen They drinke altogether wine whereof the measure of the old is giuen for eleuen Creitzers the new for nine of which measures twentie make some twenty two English beere quarts By ill fortune I was here forced to exhibite a Petition to the Consuls both in the Dutch and Latine tongues the euent whereof I will set downe after the Petition The forme whereof in English was this after the Dutch fashion euer tedious in their stiles or titles HOnourable prouident good wise Lords and Consuls I humbly desire you to respect my cause as of a stranger far from his friends and bereaued of his money by deceit Thus my case standeth Being at Nurnberg and purposing thence to goe to Bazell there to study I dealt with a Merchant that hee would exchange my money thither retaining onely so much as would plentifully serue mee for my expences thither There I met with M. B. a Citizen of Lindaw who told me that the gold Guldens of Rheine were not to be spent in these parts without losse So as I finding him acknowledged by the Carriers of this City then being there and by many Nurnbergers for the sonne of a Senator in this Towne was induced to deliuer him some gold Guldens to be paid mee heere in French Crownes and wee comming in company together to this Towne when I saw many principall Citizens gratalate his returne I was induced to deliuer him the rest of my gold Guldens which I had kept for the expence of my iourney vpon his promise to exchange them into French Crownes So as in all hee is to pay mee thirtie two French Crownes wanting six Creitzers for twenty seuen of which French Crownes and thirty six Creitzers I tooke his bill at Nurnberg but the rest I deliuered him here vpon his bare word Heere I expected his payment eight dayes and when I was instant with him to put off the payment no longer he is stoln out of the Towne and his brothers giue me no hope of payment being not so noble as to ponder the case rightly or to haue any due fecling of my state Being in this case not able without money to goe on my iourney or indure the delayes of a sute in Law against him heere all my hope is in your iust helpe which failing me I know not what course to take Therefore I desire earnestly of your worthinesse to assist mee and giue expedition to my cause that I may be deliuered by your goodnesse My debtor while he liued in the publike Inne with mee vsed mee with all curtesie but finding himselfe disinherited by his father lately dead and so dispairing of means to pay me he was now fled to the Monastery beyond the Lake being a sanctuary for wicked-persons and bankrupts He that knowes the honesty of the Dutch will not much maruell that I was thus deceiued by a Dutch-man whom I knew not to be tainted with forraine vices but it grieued me to be thus-scorned by fortune it afflicted me beyond measure that I should bee forced to spend the time dearer to mee then gold in following the Law at Lindaw which I hoped to imploy in
said before that the boats and barkes comming downe are sold at the end of the way because they cannot be brought vp against the streame Brisake is seated vpon a round and high Mountaine and though it bee improbable that there should be any want of waters so neere the foot of the Alpes yet this City hath a fountaine where water is sold and a certaine price is giuen for the watering of euery beast VVe passed the other eight miles to Strasburg the same day in eight houres being helped with the same swiftnesse of the Rheine which being oft diuided by the way makes many little Ilands The bridge of Strasburg ouer the Rheine is more then a Musket shot from the City on the East side therof The bridge is of wood and hath threescore fiue Arches each distant from the other twenty walking paces and it is so narrow that an horse-man can hardly passe by a cart it lying open on both sides and it is built of small pieces of timber laid a crosse which lye loose so as one end being pressed with any weight the other is lifted vp with danger to fall into the water It is like they build no stronger bridge either because they haue tryed that the swift course of the Rheine will easily breake it downe or because in the time of warre it may be good for them to breake it in which case it were farre greater charge to rebuild it with stone then with wood The Rheine lying thus farre off from the City the boats are brought vp to the same by a little channell The brookes of Bress and Elb passe through many streets of the City and fill all the large ditches thereof with water The City is very well fortified hauing high walles of earth the bottomes whereof are fastned with stone and the sides with trees planted on the same On the VVest side towards France are the gates Weissen-thore and Rheine-thore On the East side toward the Rheine is the gate Croneberg-thore at which though it be out of the way for the iealousie of neighbour-hood the French must enter and at no other On the East side is the Butchers gate called Metsiger-thore On the same side is the Cathedrall Church The circuit of the Cty is three houres walking The buildings and Churches are faire and high of free stone most of the streets are narrow but those diuided by water are broader I paied six Batzen a meale and for wine extraordinary three Batzen the measure Many things in this City are remarkable The Steeple of the Cathedrall Church is most beautifull and numbred among the seuen miracles of the world being begun in the yeere 1277 and scarce finished in twentie eight yeeres In the building of one gate thereof they say three Kings treasure was spent in whose memory three statuaes are there ingrauen The Church is couered with lead which is rare in Germany where the chiefe Churches are couered with brasse growing in the Countrey The brazen gates of this church are curiously carued The Clocke thereof is of all other most famous being inuented by Conradus Dasipodius in the yeere 1571. Before the Clocke stands a globe on the ground shewing the motion of the heauens starres and planets namely of the heauen carried about by the first mouer in twenty foure houres of Saturne by his proper motion carried about in thirty yeeeres of Iupiter in twelue of Mars in two of the Sunne Mercury and Venus in one yeere of the Moone in one month In the Clocke it selfe there be two tables on the right and left hand shewing the eclipses of the Sunne and Moone from the yeere 1573 to the yeere 1605. The third table in the midst is diuided into three parts In the first part the statuaes of Apollo and Diana shew the course of the yeere and the day thereof being carried about in one yeere The second part shewes the yeere of our Lord and of the world the Equinoctiall dayes the houres of each day the minutes of each houre Easter day and all other feasts and the Dominicall Letter The third part hath the Geographicall discription of all Germany and particularly of Strasburg and the names of the Inuentor and of all the worke-men In the middle frame of the Clocke is an Astrolobe shewing the signe in which each Planet is euery day and there be the statuaes of the seuen Planets vpon a round piece of iron lying flat so as euery day the statua of the Planet comes forth that rules the day the rest being hid within the frame till they come out by course at their day as the Sun vpon Sunday and so for all the weeke And there is a terrestriall globe and the quarter and halfe houre and the minuts are shewed There is also the skull of a dead man and two statuaes of two boyes whereof one turnes the houre-glasse when the Clocke hath strucken the other puts forward the rod in his hand at each stroke of the clocke Moreouer there be statuaes of the spring summer Autumne and winter and many obseruations of the Moone In the vpper part of the clocke are foure old mens stutuaes which strike the quarters of the houre the statua of death comming out each quarter to strike but being driuen backe by the statua of Christ with a speare in his hand for three quarters but in the fourth quarter that of Christ goeth backe and that of death strikes the houre with a bone in the hand and then the chimes sound On the top of the clocke is an Image of a Cock which twice in the day croweth alowd and beateth his wings Besides this clocke is decked with many rare pictures and being on the inside of the Church carrieth another frame to the outside of the wall wherein the houres of the Sunne the courses of the Moone the length of the day and such like things are set out with great Art Besides in the City there is a faire house in which citizens and strangers at publike meetings or otherwise vse to feast their inuited friends Neere the gate Rheinethore is the Armory vulgarly Zeighauss which aboundeth with Ordinance and all Munitions They haue a Theater for Comedies and a Tower to lay vp their treasure called penny Tower vulgarly Phennigthurne They say this City is called Argentina in latine of the word Argentum because the Romans of old laid vp their treasure here and Strassburg in Dutch of the word strass that is way and Burg that is a City as being built where many waies lead to many Prouinces I had almost omitted one remarkeable thing namely the faire House of the Cannons called Bruderhoff that is the Court of the Brethren I hired a coach for a Dollor my person from Strassburg to Heidelberg being sixteene miles The first day after dinner I went foure miles to Leichtenou through a plaine all compassed with Gardens and Orchards and paid six batzen for my supper The next morning we went foure miles to Milberk through a sandy
built like the rest in Hessen Phellip his grandfather built the castle and William his father the wals For my dinner and my part for the coach-man I paide the fourth part of a Doller In the afternoone we passed two miles through woody mountaines to Myndaw in the territory of the Duke of Brunswike who is also Lord of the City The Riuer Visurgis runnes by it ouer which there is a bridge of stone vpon fiue Arches Here each man paid for himselfe and his part for the coach-man seuen maria-groshen for meat and as much for wine The beere of this territory is very bitter and like a potion makes one laxatiue The fifth day we passed three miles and a halfe through Mountaines for halfe the way and the rest through corne fields most fruitfull and dined at Norton each man paying fiue batzen and a halfe After dinner we passed two miles and a halfe to a poore Village through a like fruitfull plaine of corne and by the way we passed Namerton a City belonging to the Duke of Brunswicke In this Village each man paid fiue Maria-groshen The sixt day we passed two miles to the City Zeason through hils and fields of corne the building of the City is of meere clay couered with thatch but our diet was plentifull and each man paid sixe Maria-groshen for himselfe and his part for the Coach-man After dinner we passed three miles to a poore village through wooddy mountaines yet fruitfull of corne and pasture and through a great Fen and here each man paid seuen Maria-groshen The seuenth day we passed three miles to Brunswike through a fruitfull plaine of corne end a large Fen set with willow trees neere the City Many fields as we came besides the corne were set with cabage and rootes and within a mile of Brunswike we left on the right hand toward the South the City Wolfenbieten where the Duke of Brunswike keepes his Court and though he be so called of an old title yet he is not Lord of Brunswike which is a free City of the Empire seated in a plaine all the territory round about it being most fruitfull in corne The City is of a quadrangle forme and in circuit containes two miles being held greater then Nurnberg and lesse then Erford It hath high wals of earth fastened with willowes and is very strong hauing the wals on some sides double and otherwhere treble besides that it hath a wooddy valley between deepe ditches filled with water and is compassed with the Riuer Aneur Within this wall and riuer are fiue Cities distinguished by priuiledges but vnited by lawes The first seated towards the west is called Altstat that is Old city hauing almost at the entrance a faire market place and neere it the cathedrall Church called Martinstifft The second lying towards the North is called Newstat that is New city The third lying towards the East is called Imsacke The fourth lying towards the South is called Imhagen And the fifth which was built first of all and lieth also towards the South is called Altweg that is The old way This city of old was the metropolitan city of Saxony and had the name of Bruno and the Dutch word Vuick signifying a Village It hath twelue Churches whereof two haue the steeples couered with lead which being very rare in Germany is held to be magnificent the rest are couered with tiles one excepted which to my remembrance is couered with brasse which being lesserare with them is lesse esteemed and the houses are built of timber and clay In the yard of the Cathedrall Church there is the statua of a very great Lion which the Emperour Henry the first surnamed Lyon erected there From Branswike I went to Luneburge and the first day in the morning passed foure miles to a certaine Village through a sandy plaine and fenny wild ground and by the way we passed Getherne a village where the Duke of Luneburge Lord of this territory hath a Castle and he holds his court some fiue miles off at Sell. Here each man paid for his dinner fiue Lubecke shillings In the afternoone we passed fiue miles to a countrey house through like Fenny and woody wild grounds seeing but one Village in the way and here each man paid for supper three Lubecke shillings Next morning we passed foure miles to a Village Empsdorff through like grounds and here each man paid for dinner fiue Lubecke shillings the coach-mans part being reckoned for I formerly said that hiring a Coach from Franckfort to Hamburg we were tied to pay for the coach-mans diet himselfe paying for his horse-meat as commonly they doe After dinner we passed three miles to Luneburge through a soyle as barren as the former where each man paid for himselfe and his part of the coach-mans supper eight Lubecke shillings I speake nothing of the City which I haue described before but goe on with my iourney The next morning we passed three miles to Wintzon through a Fenny ground and woods of Oake yeelding some corne but sparingly and here our coach-man paid a Lubecke shilling for his Coach to the Duke of Luneburge whose territory endeth here Then we passed a mile further to Bergendorff and by the way our coach-man passing ouer the Elue paid a Lubecke shilling to the Officers of the Cities of Lubecke and Hamburg to which Cities this territory is subiect and gouerned by them in course the soyle whereof after the passage of the Elue is more fruitfull the fields being full of corne and ditches of water planted with willowes here each man paid six Lubecke shillings for our dinners In the afternoone we passed three miles to Hamburge hauing on the left side towards the West faire pastures and on the right hand towards the East woods of oake and fruitfull hils of corne From hence I passed by boat with a faire wind in three houres to Stode and paid for my passage three Lubeck shillings These things I briefly set downe hauing described these Cities before From Stode I wrote this Letter to Francis Markham an English gentleman whom I left at Heidelberg NOble Sir I gladly take this occasion of witnessing my loue to you which in a word I haue done omitting all ceremonies as your selfe haue giuen me example Onely for my promise sake I will trouble you with the short relation of my iourney When we parted at Eranckfort you know I had for companions of my iourney two Flemmings poore Merchants of Linnen cloth and a Dutch Rider and a Booke-binder of Denmarke I comming first to the Coach tooke the most commodious seat which these my worthy companions forsooth tooke in ill part yet neither their murmuring nor rude speeches could make me yeeld the place to them Wee passed through Hessen to Brunswike which iourney since you purpose to take I aduise you to passe as soone as you can that you may be out of your paine and come to more pleasant Countries for there you shall haue grosse meat sower
by waggon the high way being then drowned Nothing were more pleasant nothing more quicke then Sea-voyages if a man might promise himselfe a good wind and a reasonable gale but through contrariety of winds and tempests they commonly proue tedious This small voyage which afflicted vs foure daies might haue beene passed in sixe houres if the winds had fauoured vs. And this hope of a short passage caused vs to make no prouision of victuals so as the Barke being gouerned by one Mariner and a boy who had nothing but cheese and musty bread to liue vpon and so could not much releeue vs each houre of these foure daies seemed a yeere vnto vs. Dockam a City of West Freesland little in circuit is in two places diuided with water which at this time ouer flowed into the very houses The wall is strong with rampiers of earth and the houses here as in all these parts of Netherland are built of bricke Here I paid for my supper twenty stiuers eating at an Ordinary but the company sitting at the fire and drinking after supper all vseth to be diuided equally whether a man drinke or not The first of Nouember we went by water in sixe houres space two miles to Lewerden hauing on each side the water fertile pastures and passing by two Forts and each man paid for his passage three stiuers The City is faire and well fortified and William Count of Nassau cousin to Count Maurice and Gouernour of Friesland had his residence in the same The streetes are large and diuided with water and the houses are fairely builded of bricke The City hath no Suburbs and is of a round forme but the waters diuiding the streetes slowly or not at all moued are in this City as almost in all other of these Prouinces subiect to stinking In the midst of the City there is a dam tolet in water at pleasure which in this place and two miles further is salt in tast Passengers entering the City leaue their swords with the guard of souldiers and receiue them backe when they goe out of the Towne The Villages hereabouts paid yeerely contribution to the Spanish garison of Groning left they should breake in and spoile them Here they say the first sermon of reformed religion was made in the Monastery of the Iacobinet and here I paid for my supper foureteene stiuers From Lewerden we went by water from eight a clocke in the morning to fiue in the afternoone two-miles to Froniker an Vniuersity of Friesland lately renewed and one mile to the City Harlingen and we paid six stiuers for our passage Entering this City we left our swords with the guard of souldiers who restored them to vs when wee went away It is a little City and lieth in length from the East to the West but is somewhat more narrow towards the North where the houses are thinly built On the west and North sides lies an arme of the Sea comming out of the German Sea and here inclosed with the continent and Ilands On the South and East sides without the gates are faire pastures in a large plaine I lodged in an Englishmans house the chiefe Host of the City who either dispising England and Englishmen or too much respecting his masters of Friesland gaue me such entertainment as I tooke him for one of the old Picts for hauing placed his Gentlemen of Friesland at one table he called me to the second and seeing that I tooke it in ill part lest I should no lesse dislike my lodging he intreated a gentleman of Friesland to admit me partner of his bed but I hearing the gentleman condition with him about the cleannesse of my body and linnen for very scorne would not trouble his worship but chose rather to lie vpon a bench And it was most ridiculous that this Host excused himselfe to me as hauing for countries sake made bold with me whom he had neuer seene before I paid for my supper and breakefast with wine thirty stiuers and one of my consorts drinking no wine paid sixeteene whereof nine was for beere From Harlingen I went by the said Inland Sea vulgarly called Zwidersea foureteene miles to Amsterdam and paid eight stiuers for my passage Some of our passengers going onely to Enchusen paid fiue stiuers for by couenant betweene the Cities the ships must land their passengers at Enchusen and there receiue such new passengers as they find and one ship at least is bound daily to make this passage From the said Harlingen a City of Friesland wee passed in foure houres saile to Enchusen a City of Holland which is fortified with a wall of earth and strong rampiers and lieth in length from the North to the South The Hauen lies on the East side and the new City was then building towards the West side This City lying betweene the mouth of the German sea and Amsterdam another City of Holland and in the beginning of the warre taking part with the Prince of Orange forced Amsterdam by stopping all supply of victuals to yeeld to the said Prince Hauing made short stay here we tooke ship againe and sayling from siue a clocke in the euening to twelue in the night in the same Inland sea we entered the Riuer Tay where we cast anchor till foure in the morning and then setting sayle passed one mile in that Riuer before sixe of the clocke and landed at Amsterdam Fiue streetes of this City are diuided with water the Riuer Tay flowes like a large and calme sea on the North side where is a safe port the trafficke being great in this City and at Midleburg since the passage to Antwerpe was stopped Vpon the Hauen lics a field or market place called Campplata where the Citizens vse to behold their friends going to sea and returning home From this place towards the South lies Warmerstrat a long and large street betweene two Riuers which part of the City is called the new Ditch The Merchants in summer meet vpon the Bridge and in winter they meet in the New Church in very great number where they walke in two rankes by couples one ranke going vp and another going downe and there is no way to get out of the Church except they slip out of the doores when in one of those rankes they passe by them On the East side of the City there is a wall of stone higher then the City hauing a pleasant walke vpon it In the same place are houses for exercise of shooting in gunneo and crosse-bowes beyond this wall there is another of earth and betweene these wals the new City was plotted out where of few houses were then built but since I heare it is fully finished Likewise on the South and West sides there be two like wals and between them the plot of the said new City in which many faire houses were then built The fields on all sides without the gates being fenny and drowned with water doe make the City more strong but
for this cause they say the foundations of the houses being laid in water cost as much or more as the houses themselues The Riuer Amster of which and the word dam the City is named running from the South through three lakes entereth this city and passing through it fals into the Riuer Tay on the North side The City hath fiue gates which are shut at dinners and suppers though the danger of the warre be farre from them There be two Churches in which they haue two sermons each second day and foure on sunday The City lay in length from the North to the South but adding the plot of the new City it is of a round forme The streetes are narrow and the building of bricke with a low roofe shewed antiquity They haue two Almeshouses called Gasthausen that is Houses for strangers which were of old Monasteries One of these houses built round was a Cloyster for Nunnes wherein sixty beds at this time were made for poore weomen diseased and in another chamber thereof were fifty two beds made for the auxiliary Soulders of England being hurt or sicke and in the third roome were eighty one beds made for the hurt and sicke Souldiers of other Nations to which souldiers and sicke weomen they giue cleane sheetes a good diet and necessary clothes with great cleanlinesse and allow them Physitians Surgions to cure them and most of the Cities in these Prouinces haue like houses Here I lodged with an English-man and paid for dinner and supper twenty stiuers and for a guest inuited to supper ten stiuers and for three pints or chopines of Spanish wine twenty one stiuers From Amsterdam I went in a boat three miles to Harlam and paid for my passage foure stiuers we had not passed farre from Amsterdam when we came to a damme shutting out the flowing of the sea for the waters are salt thus farre though the ebbing and the flowing of the sea can hardly be discerned at Amsterdam for the depth of the Riuer Tay aud because Inland seas shew little ebbing or flowing Our boat was lifted ouer this damme by ropes and so let fall into the water on the other side for which the Mariners paid tribute There is another damme for greater Barkes and as by these dammes they let in waters to the Land at pleasure so they haue other dams at Torgay to let them out againe into the Sea when the Land hath too much water From hence we had the Sea-shore all the way on the North side not farre distant and on both sides of the water in which we passed were faire pastures parted with ditches of water The Riuer running from Amsterdam from the East to the North doth turne neere Harlam towards the South and diuideth the City which on all sides is compasied with Nauigable waters On the North side neere the gate Ians-port Don Frederick sonne to the Duke of Alun pitched his tent in a meadow when he besieged the City with the Spanish forces and much spoiled those parts beating downe Gentlemens faire houses dwelling frequently in that part with his Artillery playing into this street hauing the name of the Knights of Saint Iohn On the same side are two other gates Sayle-port and Cruyse-port and without them toward the sea being halfe a mile distant are very faire pastures but there is no riuer nor ditch that leads from the City to the sea For these Prouinces haue onely three passages to goe to sea one betweene Rotherodam and Bril a Fort of Zealand the second at Vlishing another Port of Zealand and the third from Amsterdam betweene two Ilands called rhe Fly and Shelling Wee comming from Amsterdam to Harlam entred the Citie by the gate Kleine holt Port on the East side where the very Almes-houses were beaten downe in the aforesaid siege of the Spaniards and the walles then beaten downe were not yet rebuilt On the South side is the fifth gate Grote-holt Port the street whereof is the fairest next that of the Knights of Saint Iohn On this side was a wall of stone but at this time they were building another very strong wall beyond it of earth In the New-street is the house for exercise of shooting and another old house for the same vse and one market-place sweetly shaded with trees and a second market-place of good length for the selling of Cattle Likewise on this side another part of the Spanish Army lay and destroyed a most pleasant Wood of which the gate and street haue the name And they report that the Spaniards taking the City vsed great cruelty to all but especially to the Garrison of the English Souldiers The Histories witnesse that three hundred were beheaded and more then two hundred drowned in the Lake called Harlam-mere On the West side the Citie is compassed with a wall of earth and there bee faire pastures betweeue the City and the Sea Among the Churches that which is called the Great is the fairest and our Ladies Church vulgarly called Vnser-fraw kirke is the next in beautie All the sea coast of Holland is a sandy downe in which are great store of conies This Citie makes great store of linnen clothes and hath some fiue hundred spinsters in it The water heere as most of these Cities standing and little or nothing mouing is subiect to stinking so as they are forced to fetch water for brewing by boats Here I paied for supper and my part of wine twenty stiuers and for my dinner without wine thirteene stiuers About a mile from the City is a very sweet Hil called Weligheberg whether the brides vse to walke and there take their leaues of the Virgins And in the mid way towards Almer is another Hil where the Counts of Holland vvere vvont to bee consecrated In the market-place ouer against the Pallace they shew the house of one Laurence Iohn vvhom they brag to bee the first inuentor of the Presse for Printing and they shew two bels of the brasse of Corinth which they say were brought from Pelusium a City in Affrick vpon the Nyle From Harlam wee hired a waggon for eight stiuers and came fiue miles in fiue houres space to Leyden our waggoner baiting his horses in the mid way but staying very little In the way we had on all sides faire pastures and passed by the Lake or Mere of Harlam lying towards the South and the sea bankes vvithin sight towards the North. The high wayes in these Prouinces seeme to be forced and made by Art being sandy and very dry though all the pastures on both sides bee compassed with frequent ditches of water At the gates of Leyden the men goe out of the vvaggon and onely vvomen may be carried into the City lest as I thinke the vvheeles of the loaded vvaggons should breake the bricke pauements of the streets Hence I returned presently to Amsterdam that I might receiue money sent me by exchange So I hired a vvaggon for eight stiuers my part from hence to Harlam and
by the way I obserued that the vvaggons hauing past more then halfe the way must haue the way giuen them by all the waggons they meet because their horses should in reason be most weary At Harlam I paied for supper bed and breakfast twenty fiue stiuers Hence I vvent by vvaggon and paied for my part of it sixteene stiuers for three miles to Amsterdam and there receiuing my money returned to Harlam drawne ouer the snow and ice which had plentifully fallen on a sledge for which I paid foure stiuers and I obserued many markes set vp in the fields to direct the way to passengers From Harlam I returned to Leyden where I lodged in a French-mans house for intending to bestow all my time in the French tongue till by Letters I should dispose of my estate in England and there being a famous Vniuersity in this City I found no abiding fitter for me then this I paid for my diet and chamber in this French-mans house three guidens and fifteene stiuers weekely but in the common Innes they pay ten or fifteene stiuers a meale according to the quantity of beere they drinke and ordinarily twenty stiuers or more if they drinke wine Leyden is so called of the words Legt bey de dunen that is lieth by the Downes so they call the sandy bankes of the Sea as the English doe likewise in Kent Leyden is of a round forme or perhaps somewhat longer from the East to the West where the Rheine passeth by it It is a City of much beauty the houses are very fairely built of bricke and be vniforme The Churches are couered with long slates as they be almost through all Holland and among the streetes one is much fairer then the rest in the middest whereof is a peece of ground railed in where the Merchants meet Many streetes are diuided with waters which are passed by woodden bridges and in deede if a man dig two foote in any part of Holland he shall find water I said that the Rheine passeth by this City yet doth it not fall into the Sea but leeseth it selfe in many standing ditches of water in this low part of the continent Toward the North-west about a mile from the City there is the end of a ditch digged of old from the very City vulgarly called Malgatt because the Citizens spent much treasure in a vaine hope to make a Hauen for ships and a nauigable water to come vp to the Towne for the heapes of sand daily cast vp by the Sea filled the place vp where they thought to haue made the Hauen as fast as they could dig it yet was it long before they would cease from this ill aduised worke Notwithstanding salt water comes vnder the earth from the Sea into this ditch and they carry the same vnto the City to make salt thereof Vpon the same Sea-shore towards the North and like distance from the City is a Village called Catwicke seated vpon Mountaines of sands on the maine sea Vpon the same shore further towards the North is a place where they say the Romans of old had an Armory the ruines whereof some musket shot from the shore more or lesse appeare as the wind couers them with sand or blowing from another quarter driues away the sand and so laies them open Hereabouts they say that many coines of the Romans are oftentimes digged vp and neere the Hoch-landish Church is a Monument built by Caligula the Emperour which now belongs to a Gentleman of that Countrey Vpon the North side of this city the Villages Warmond and Nortwicke lie vpon the aforesaid Downes but the City hath no gate that directly leades to them Leyden hath fiue gates Regenspurgport on the West side which leadeth to Harlam and to Catwicke and white port which leadeth to Hage betweene which gates there is a low water-gate of iron grates for boates to passe in and out Neere White Port lies a house where they exercise shooting with the Peece and Crosse-bow On the South side is the gate Kow-port leading into the pastures Vpon the East side is the gate Hochwertz-port more fortified then any of the rest and it leadeth to Vberden Gonda and to Alphen There is another gate Zillport which leadeth ro Vtretcht whither you passe by water or land The foresaid street which I said was the beauty of the Towne lieth from the West to Hochwertzport on the East side and is called Breitstrat that is Broadstreete In the spring time of the yeere 1593 purposing to see the Cities of the vnited Prouinces I hired a Waggon for sixe stiuers and went from Leyden to Delph three miles in three houres space through corne fields and rich pastures and hauing gone two third parts of the way we passed ouer the water that runnes from Leyden to Delph In all these parts the high way hath ditches on both sides and is very plaine sandy and very dry being daily repaired by the countrey people By the way is a mill in which they make oyle of rape and line seedes mingled with wallnut shels and they haue many such miles in those parts Not farre of at Voberg the Histories write of a holy Groue famous for a conspiracy against the Romans The City of Delph lyeth in length from the North to the South and the falrest street called Corne-mart lies the same way Here as in all the Cities of these parts the buildings are of bricke but the houses of Delph are more stately built and seeme to haue more antiquity then other where In the New Church is a Monument of the Prince of Orange the poorest that euer I saw for such a person being onely of rough stones and morter with posts of wood coloured ouer with black and very little erected from the ground Neere the Church is a large market-place and within a little Iland the Senate house is built The Hauen is on the South side The Prince of Orange dwelt heere in a Monastery and vsed to eat in a low parlor whence as he ascended the staires into the chamber a wicked murtherer gaue him his deaths wound who flying by a backe doore was after taken in the Citie and put to a most cruell but most deserued death The Countesse of Buren daughter to this said Prince now liued in this Monastery with her family Here I paied for one meale for my selfe and a guest inuited by me and two pots of Rhenish wine three guldens and fiue stiuers When the Spanish Army most pressed the vnited Prouinces the Prince of Orange then lying here to shunne a greater mischiefe from the Spaniards brake downe the bankes of the sea and let in the waters which did much hurt to the Countrey but saued them from the Spaniards who with great feare hasted away giuing great rewards to those that guided them to the firme continent At Delph are about three hundred Brewers and their beere for the goodnesse is called Delphs-English but howsoeuer they had Brewers and the very
Parishes at once by a famous flood were within lesse then 200. yeeres agoe swallowed vp of the Sea and for witnes of this calamity diuers Towers farre distant the one from the other appeare in this Sea and according to the ebbing and flowing more or lesse seene doe alwaies by their sad spectacle put the passengers in mind of that wofull euent And the Hollanders say that these flouds caused the Rheine to change his bed as hereafter I shall shew in the due place From Count Maurice his Campe at Getrudenberg I failed in six houres space to the Iland Plate and at midnight putting forth againe failed in ten houres space to the Iland Tarlot and from thence in three houres space to the City Bergenapzome where we landed By the way we saw one of the aforesaid Towers high aboue the water being a steeple of some parish Church swallowed vp in the said deluge of which there be many like sad remembrances in this Inland sea The channell leading to the City is called Forcemer and hath vpon the banke many strong sorts and in this channell lay a man of warre to defend passengers from the bordering enemy This City is strongly fortified and is sented in Brabant and had many castles of the enemy lying neerert and it was gouerned by a garison of English not in the Queenes but in the States pay as Ostend at that time was whereas Virshing and Brill pledged to the Queen for money wore kept by English Garisons in the Queenes pay and Sir Thomas Morgan was at this time Gouernour of this City At out entrance euery man gaue his nameto the Guard Without the City on the West side many akers of land were drowned when the Prince of Orange as I said let in the waters to driue the Spaniards out of those parts which from that day to this could neuer be dried and gained againe On this side I entered the City where be many poore houses built in forme of a Lutes necke which being added to the City almost of a round forme make the whole City much like vnto a Lute On this side were three strong rauelings and vppon the necke of the said Lute is the Hauen in the channell Forcemer which going no further into the land endeth in a mill made of purpose to keepe the ebbing water so as the ditches may alwaies be full On the North side is the prison not vnpleasant for situation and the English House and the House of the Gouernour which of old belonged to the Count of Brabant Betweene the Gates wouldport and Stephenbergport which are both strongly fortified the Riuer Zome fals into the Towne whereof it hath the name yet the channell being stopped it seemes here a standing water rather then a Riuer Towards the East the City is very strongly fortified and there is the Gate Boskport so called as I thinke of the word Bosco which in the Italian tongue signifies a wood for on this side without the gates were many woods and orchards till they were destroied in the warre On this side is another Raueling of great length and beyond the fortifications lie faire pastures but somewhat couered with waters And from hence wee might see Woudcastle scarce three English miles distant which was then possessed by the Spaniards On the South side is a new fort beyond a strong bulwarke and a very strong counterscarp compassing the City And from hence was of old a most pleasant walke vnder the shade of trees to the old castle some mile distant On this side in a pleasant groue were many such birds as I said to be at Dort vulgarly called Adherne much esteemed for the fethers they beare in their fore head and there is a penalty set on those that hurt or driue them away On this side also is the English Church and vpon this and the East sides the Prince of Parma in camped when hee besieged this City There is in the middest of the City a triangular market place and from the sharpe end thereof towards the West siue rauelings run beyond the wals The houses are built of bricke and seeme to be built of old The Church hath a very high steeple whence the watchmen shew the comming and number of horse-men by hanging out white flagges and of foot by redde All the Villages hereabouts though liuing vnder the Spaniard yet pay contribution to this Garrison lest the souldiers should vpon aduantage breake out and spoile them The Citizens liue of mannall arts and the expences of the Garison From hence I sayled to Midleburge and at one ebbe of the Sea passed in seuen houres space to Der-goese and at another ebbe in foure houres space to Armaren a City of the Iland Walkern belonging to Zealand and I paid for my passage six stiuers From hence in halfe an houre I walked on foot to Midleburge the houses whereof are stately built and very high especially the new City and are all of bricke as be the Cities of Holland and as be the houses of Vlishing but some of these are stately built of free stone yet the streetes are somewhat narrow Here I paid for my supper fiue stiuers in the English House where the Host is onely bound to prouide for the Merchants and such gucsts as they inuite yet many times he admits English Gentlemen both to lodge and eat there The House lies in the street Longdels and howsoeuer the Merchants cat there yet they hier their lodgings scatteringly in the City and refused an Abbey which the Senators offered them to lodge therein perhaps out of feare lest in any ciuill tumult they might more easily be wronged if they should all lie together This City is the Staple of all Merchandise excepting Rhenish wine for which by old priuiledge Dorte is the Staple Therefore French and Spanish Wines are here sold much more cheape then other where because they are free of impost in this place and haue great impositions laid on them being carried out to other Cities The forme of the City is round saue that on the East side the buildings of the new City being vnperfected made it to haue the forme of a halfe Moone though the plot thereof were round Comming from Armuren I entered on this East side by a very faire gate called the New Gate where the water falling into the Towne passeth to the Burse where the Merchants meet There is a publike House for shooting the wall on this side as round about the City is of stone and is rather adorned then fortified with some Towers And this wall is double vpon the Inner whereof compassed with deepe ditches many Houses are built On the West side without the gates almost halfe way to Vlishing is Rammakins Castle kept by English Souldiers sent from Vlishing to that purpose being a place of great importance because the channell going to Midleburge runnes within the command of their Artillery On this South side is the Hauen and without the wals very faire pastures
to the vttermost part of the Iland Also on this side is a new Hauen made for ships in the winter time and the gate is called Rammakins Port of the said Castle On the West side you may see Vlishing a mile off and in a cleere day the Downes of Kent in England On this side within the wals is a round market place and the Senate-house of anticke building and two Gates called of the Cities to which they leade Vlishing port and Longe-ville port On the North side is an Abbey and pleasant walking and another publike House for exercise of shooting This populous City hath onely two Churches either because the people being of many sects in Religion and much occupied in trafficke scarce the third part comes to Church or else because the people being much increased by strangers comming to dwell in these parts vpon the stopping of the passage to Antwerp in the ciuill warres it is no wonder that the old Churches will not receiue them The Citizens may at pleasure drownd all the fields about them And this one and the chiefe Iland of Zealand called Walkerne containeth siue walled Cities besides Villages but the aire is reputed vnwholsome Midleburge is the chiefe place of trafficke in Zealand as Amsterdam in Holland From hence I went in a long Waggon couered with hoopes and cloth to Vlishing a long mile and paid for my passage two blankes Ten English foot companies one hundred and fifty in each company vnder the gouernment of Sir Robert Sidney kept this strong Towne for the Queene of England and vnder her pay being ingaged to her for money lent the States and the ten Captaines in course watched each third night The City is little and of a round forme but very strong It hath a narrow Sea on the West side where vpon the last confines of Zealand and the vnited Prouinces is one of the three passages whereof I formerly spake to the Maine Sea On this side is the Mountaine of the Mill where the Souldiers watch nightly and beyond the Mountaine is a damme to let in the Sea at pleasure On the South side is the Gate Waterport strongly fortified lying vpon the Inland Sea On this side towards the North the Sea flowing into the Towne maketh one Hauen and towards the East another and diuideth the City into three parts the Old the New and the Middle whereof any one being taken by the enemy yet the other are fortified for defence Beyond these Hauens or channels is a Mountaine lying ouer the City vpon which the Souldiers kept guards day and night as they did likewise vpon the Bridge diuiding the Cities and vpon other lower hils at all the gates of the City and in prayer time at the doore of the English Church This Church is on the East side and is common to the English and Dutch at diuers houres Betweene the high mountaine this Church was the Gouernours House belonging of old to the Counts of Zealand and the publike house for exercise of shooting but lesse pleasant then the like houses are in other Cities On the same East side lie two waies one to Rammakins Castle the other to Midleburge On the North side the Downes of Kent in England may easily be seene and there is the Hospitall or Gast-house for sicke people and for sicke and maimed souldiers of which a Mountaine thereby hath the name On this and the East sides are two Mils to retaine the water when the Sea ebs that the ditches round about may alwaies be filled and if need be to ouerflow the fields These ditches are commonly a pikes depth and can by no art or enemy be dried The Citizens want good water hauing no wels nor any fresh water but raine water kept in Cesternes The foresaid number of Souldiers in the Garrison was not sufficient to master the Citizens onely their couragious minds dispising death kept the Citizens in such awe as they durst not attempt to recouer their liberty by force which they hoped to obtaine by peaceable meanes and the vnited Prouinces depended vpon the opinion of the Queenes aid perhaps more then vpon the aid it selfe so as either failing they were like to be a prey to the Spaniards Since that time I heard the Garison was diminished so as it seemes the English had lesse strength to keepe it if the States changing their minds should attempt to surprise it Being inuited by my English friends I spent nothing in this City Hence I returned to Midleburge on foot vpon a paued causcy hauing on each side rich corne fields and faire pastures with many orchards and in the mid-way a Gentleman called Aldegondey famous for his wisdome hath his Castle wherein he dwelt At Midleburge I paid six stiuers for my supper and two for my bed and prouiding victuals to carry by Sea I paid for a loyne of mutton twenty foure stiuers as also for my washing seuen stiuers and staying in the Towne two daies I spent in all foure guldens and foure stiuers I tooke ship at ten in the morning and betweene the Iland Der-goese and the Inland Sea called Zurechsea I saw two Towers of Villages swallowed in the foresaid deluge and sayling by the Iland Plate and the Iland of Brill we passed certaine booyes directing to find the channell The next day in the afternoone I landed at Roterodam in Holland and paid ten stiuers for my passage Thence I passed in two houres space by boat to Delph and paid two stiuers for my passage Thence in two houres space I passed to the Hage by Waggon and paid for my passage two stiuers for which iourney one man alone may hire a Waggon for seuen stiuers At the Hage Count Maurice with his mother in law the Countesse of Orange born of the Noble Family of the Chastillons in France and the Generall States of the vnited Prouinces and Princes Ambassadours haue their residence which made me desirous to stay here a while to which purpose I hired a chamber for which for my bed sheets tableclothes towels and dressing of my meat I paid twenty fiue stiuers weekely I bought my owne meat and liuing priuatly with as much frugality as conueniently I might I spent by the weeke no more then fiue guldens and a halfe though all things were in this place extraordinarily deere My beere in one weeke came to foureteene stiuers and among other things bought I paid for a quarter of lambe thirty stiuers for a Hen seuen stiuers for a Pigeon foure stiuers for a Rabet three stiuers I remember not to haue seene a more pleasant village then this great part of the houses are fairely built of bricke though many of them in by-streetes be couered with thatch and some few are stately built of free-stone The village hath the forme of a Crosse and vpon the East side comming in from Leyden there is a most pleasant Groue with many wild walkes like a maze and neerer the houses is another very pleasant walke
townes and Villages we dined in a Village where we two by couenant paying for our coachman spent each of vs eigh grosh In the afternoone we passed the rest of the way one mile in the-Kings territory where we passed another damme of the riuer Vistula and three miles to Dantzke in the territory of the same City The King of Poland at this time was at the Port of Dantzke called Der Mind an English mile from the City expecting a wind to sayle into his Kingdome of Suecin and had with him his Queene and many Ladies and Courtiers Therefore desirous to see the King and the Queene with their traine I walked the next morning to this Port which is barred with a mountaine of sand so as the ships must vnlade in the roade before they can enter this Hauen neither is any village built there but onely one Inne in which the King 〈◊〉 with all his traine but beyond the water there is a strong Castle of a round sonne From hence after dinner I returned on foot to Dantzke The next day the King had a good wind but before this as those of the Romish religion are very superstitious the King and the Queen being of the house of Austria while sometimes they thought Munday sometimes Friday to be vnlucky daies had lost many faire winds The City of Dantzke is a very faire City and howsoeuer few ages past they had not any houses built of stone yet at this time many were built of free-stone and the rest of bricke with great beauty and magnificence being sixe or seuen roofes high And they had publike gardens for sports banquets and exercises which are very pleasant They haue a very faire Senate-house called Hoff that is the Court and the Citizens haue a strange fashion to put off their hats when they passe by it From the market place being round in which the King of Poland lodged some daies to the gate Hochethore being richly engraued lieth a very faire street called Longgasse and leads vp towards the Mountaines hanging ouer the City The famous Riuer Vistula doth not enter the City but passeth by it on the East-side and running towards the North fals into the Balticke sea But a little brook enters the City on the South-side and runnes through it towards the North. There is a faire water conduit vulgarly called Wasserkunst where by a mill the waters are drawne vp into a cesterne from whence they are carried by pipes into all the streetes and priuate houses besides that many Citizens haue their priuat wels The aforesaid brooke driues many mils among which one for the grinding of corne belongs to the Senate and it hath eighteene roomes and bringeth into the publike treasure euery houre a gold gulden and another without any helpe of hands saweth boords hauing an iron wheele which doth not onely driue the saw but hooketh in and turneth the boords to the saw The Garners for laying vp of corne called speiker are very faire and very many lying together in which the Citizens lay vp corne brought out of Poland and according to the wants of Europe carry it into many kingdomes and many times relieue fruitfull Prouinces in time of casual dearth The Queene of Poland came in a disguifed habit to see these garners and they haue a law that no man may carry fire or a lighted candle into them In the Church called Parkirk the resurrection of our Lord is painted with great art and the same againe is figured vnder a globe of glasse which kinde of painting is here in vse This City compassed with one wall containes three Cities gouerned by three Senates out of which one chiefe Senate is gathered to gouerne the whole City and these three Cities are called Furstat that is the fore City and Alistat that is the old City and Reichstat that is the Empires City The whole-City vnited lies in length from the South to the North and vpon the South-side is Furstat where the foresaid brooke diuiding the City doth enter and there is the aforesaid water conduit and without the wals a faire village or suburbe called Scotland in which there is a sanctuary which offenders may enter paying a gulden to the Bishop and none but Artificers for the most part shoomakers d well in this suburbe On this side and towards the East and North without the wals lie plaine fields which may be drowned at pleasure Vpon the East-side within the wals are the aforesaid garners for corne On the West-side without the wals great mountaines hang ouer the City and vpon them Stephen King of Poland incamped when he besieged the City which hath for defence very high wals on the same side Vpon the North-side in a corner lies Altstat betweene which and Furstat on the South-side lies the chiefe City Reichstat in the middest whereof is the aforesaid market place and a publike armory besides that great Ordinance is planted vpon the wals round about the City I said that from this market place the faire street Longgasse lieth to the gate Reichstat Betweene Reichstat and Altstat lie the foresaid two mils to grinde corn and saw boords both in my opinion very rare The City of Dantzke from the Roman superstition hath the same Saint for protector of their City which England hath namely Saint George whom they carry in their flags and banners And by the way let me remember that the state of Genea in Italy and the Iland of Chios vulgarly Zio in the sea neere Constantinople carry also the same Saint in their flagges At Dantzke I paid fiuegrosh a meale and being to passe into Poland where good meat is not in all places to be had I carried some prouision in the Coach and paid for two hens fiue grosh and for each measure of wine all kinds being of like price I paid ten grosh which measure is called a stoope and is somewhat bigger then the English guart The ninth of September after the old stile for the new stile is vsed in Poland I tooke The ninth of September after the old stile for the new stile is vsed in Poland I tooke my iourney to Crakaw and we being foure consorts hired a Coach for forty guldens The first day in the morning we passed fiue miles in fiue houres space through fruitfull hils of corne and onely one wood in that part of the Dukedome of Prussen which belongs vnto the King of Poland and came to the City Diersaw by which the riuer Vistula runneth After dinner we passed three miles through a wood and a Fen to the Village Zunzane inhabited by Hollanders who hauing dried the Fen made the fields much more fruitfull And from thence the same night hauing passed the riuer Vistula we went halfe a mile to Gratenis a City belonging to the Sborosky a family of Gentlemen The second day in the morning we went fiue miles through a wood and fruitfull fields of corne to a little Citty Colmersea where that day was a meeting of
the neighbour Gentlemen If you except Crakaw and the greater Cities the building in these parts is poore being of meere dirt in the Villages and of timber and clay in the better townes the houses being couered with straw or tiles of wood and the gentlemens houses be farre distant one from the other and of no beauty After dinner we went foure miles through fruitfull fields of corne to the City Toarn Hitherto we had giuen money to a Hollander one of our consorts for the paying of our expences and now by his account each of vs had spent three guldens and a halfe for he had prouided wine and such things which wee could not find in Villages to be carried in our Coach In this City we supped at an Ordinary and fiue of vs paid two dollers The riuer Vistula passeth by this City and for passing the same by a bridge wee paid for our Coach two grosh and then entring Massouia a Prouince of the Kingdome of Poland the third day in the morning we passed three miles through a wood of firre and one mile through corne fields and I haue omitted what I paid for my dinner In the afternoone wee passed three miles through a wild plaine and woods of oake to Britzoll where I likewise omitted my expences The fourth day in the morning we passed fiue miles through corne fields and woods of oake to Quodonab where I forgot my expence I formerly said that foure of vs had hired a Coach from Dantzke to Crakaw but the horses being but two were extreamely weary so as one of our company hauing a letter to take post horses if so I may call poore iades paying a grosh for each horse euery mile which Letter is vulgarly called Podwoda-briefe I was easily induced to leaue the Coach and beare him company and they telling vs that we had now passed more then halfe the way we agreed so as we two who left the Coach should pay each of vs six guldens for the same But the Hollander ouer-reached vs for we had not gone halfe the way and yet paid more then halfe the price which we should haue paid for the whole iourney This done we two drawne vpon a sledge passed two miles through corne fieldes that afternoone to a poore Village and paid for our passage two grosh The fifth day in the morning hiring a countrey Waggon and two horses at the same rate we passed two miles through fields of hops and sandy fields of corne and two woods of firre to Lonzchizcha and from thence fiue miles through woods and sandy fields to another village and paid for our sledge halfe a grosh each mile and for a horse for two miles sixe grosh and for three miles seuen grosh Here we inuited two Polackes to dinner yet both together spent onely foure grosh and a halfe for vs and them for we had ten egges for a grosh and all other victuals very cheape After dinner we hired two horses and a Countrey Waggon for eight grosh and passed foure miles through a stony way and sandy fields of corne to Peterkaw where the King hath a Castle and there we bought for our selues flesh bread and beere for our supper at a very cheape rate and giuing one grosh to the Hostesse for dressing our meat and for butter and fier shee was very well content with it The sixth day in the morning we passed fiue miles and in the afternoone two miles with the same Waggon for which wee paid seuen grosh and the same horses for which wee paid foureteene grosh And we passed through woods of high firre trees and some few fields of corne Our meat we bought our selues and as formerly our Hostesse dressed it and we fetched our beere without doores I remember wee paid three grosh for a goose two for a partridge two for a loyne of mutton and three for a pigge They sold a bushel of oates for two grosh which at Thoarn they sold for six grosh In these parts were great store of hop-yards After dinner we passed three miles throgh woody hils and corne fieldes and paied for our horses and a country waggon twelue grosh The seuenth day in the morning wee passed to a poore village foure miles through fruitfull hils of corne and many woods of firre and one of oake and vvee hired our country waggon with two horses for fourteene grosh Further wee went three miles to another village through hils of corne and a heath full of woods and paied for one horse and a waggon six grosh After dinner we passed to a village three miles through fruitfull hils of corne and by the way we might see a stately Gentlemans house and Gentlemen hawking in the fieldes and I remember not in all my long trauell euer to haue met hawkers or hunters in the fieldes but onely heere and once in Bohemia In this village the King hath a Castle The eight day in the morning we passed forward with the same horses and waggon which we had in the afternoone before and went two miles to Pnecho and wee paied for our horses and waggon fifteene grosh and gaue one to the waggoner Here the King hath another faire Castle From hence we passed two miles to a village through mountaines and corne fields and paied for two horses and a waggon foure grosh and gaue to the waggoner procuring our horses one grosh The same day we went three miles through little mountaines of corne to Crakaw and paied for two horses and a waggon six grosh Heere wee lodged with the Fleming consort of our iourney and had our diet after the Dutch manner and price Fortified Cities are very rare in Poland they placing their strength in their swords and horsemen rather then in walles Of all the Cities Crakaw is the chiefe where the King and his Councell reside It is seated in a plaine hauing mountaines on all sides but somewhat distant and it is compassed with two walles of stone and a dry ditch The building is very faire of free stone foure roofes hye but couered with tiles of wood for the most part It is of a round forme but somewhat longer from the East to the West In the midst of the City is a large market place quadrangular wherein is the Cathedrall Church and in the midst of the market place is the Senate house for the City about which are many shops of Merchants Vpon the East side of the City is the Kings Castle seated on a hill being faire and high built almost quadrangular but somewhat more long then broad and lying open on the South side without any building aboue the wall On the East side be the Chambersof the King and Queene with galleries adioyning On the North side is a faire gallery some forty fiue walking paces long where they vse to feast and dance On the West side are the chambers of the Queene Dowager from whence are priuate staires to the gate of the Castle by which the French King Henry the
for my doublet and hose eight lites to my laundresse for making a shirt a lire that is twenty sols for washing it two sols and for washing foure handkerchers one sol And this shall suffice for particular expences The City Paduoa was built by Antenor a Troian and the Heneti driuen out of their Countrey ioined themselues to these Troians These with ioint force droue out the Euganei from the fertile Euganean hils neere Paduoa where Hereules left them and these Heneti gaue to their posterity the name of Venetians to whom the Colonies of Tuscany ioined themselues then the French subdued all this Prouince till at last they subiected themselues to the Romans and were made Citizens of Rome The Roman Empire declining the Visigothes vnder Alaricus droue the chiefe Citizens of Paduoa into the lakes of Venice Then Attila King of the Hunnes spoiled Paduoa and the Longobards burnt it which being rebuilt and flourishing vnder the German Emperors Acciolinus vsurped the gouernement thereof in the yeere 1237. But Pope Alexander the fourth helped by the Venetians restored it to liberty in the yeere 1257. In the faction of the Guelphes Gibellines Paduoa then from that time hath bin subiect to many Princes of the Scaligers Cararrians til about the yeere 1402. the Venetians tooke the City which they held to the yeere 1509. when the French King Lewis made them yeeld to the Emperour but the Venetians after two moneths recouered it and to this day it is subiect to them who send a Magistrate called Podesta euery fifteene moneths to gouerne it Some say Paduoa was first called Antenoria as the Heneti gaue the name of Venice to the Countrey till after Antenors death the Heneti called it Paduoa of a City in their Countrey whence they were driuen Others say it hath the name from a Greeke word vpon the flying of Swannes others say it is so called of the riuer Po called in Latine Padus or of the territory lying beyond the Po the Riuer giuing name to the territory and that to the City Before it was destroied by Attila it was seated on the East-side of the Riuer Medoacus but after it was built on the other side in a fenny soyle where now the market place is but since it hath beene inlarged on both sides the water being without the outmost wals seuen miles compasse and of a triangular forme as it seemed to me The first angle is on the North-side where is the Monastery of the Hermites of Saint Augustine and the stately Pallace Areno in which the French King Henry the third was lodged when hee returned from Poland into France The second angle is towards the East where is the gate at which they take water to passe vpon the Riuer Brenta to Venice The third angle is towards the South where is the monastery Santo called of Saint Anthony of Lisbon and the monastery of Saint Iustina And these angles taken away the old City is round On the West-side vpon the wals is built the old Pallace of the old City Paduoa is seated in a sweet plain hauing no trees neere the City Of old the wall was triple and now it is double The inner wall is some three miles in compasse and is very high hauing a walke vpon it round about with pleasant shade of trees where Gentlemen vse to play at the balloone This wall compassed round with the Brent hath foureteene gates with as many bridges of stone The riuer Brent likewise compasseth the outward wall which is about seuen miles compasse and hath six stately gates but this wall is nothing so strong as the other The Riuer Athesis diuides the territory of Paduoa from that of Uerona and the riuer Po diuides it from that of Ferrara Two riuers of old called Medonci enter the City the greater at this day called Brenta falling from the Alpes with the right hand branch runneth to Paduoa and with the left hand branch to Rosta and diuiding againe into two branches one by the dirch Brentella is carried to Paduoa the greater takes the name Bachilio and neere to the wals of Paduoa receiues the waters of Brentella increased with a branch of Brenta These Riuers enter the City and with diuers channels driue many mils compasse the wals and not onely make the fields fertile but serue to carry all commodities abounding here from hence to Venice and to bring from thence such things as they want and besides doe cleanse all filth of the stables and priuies The aire at Paduoa is very healthfull and the building is with arches of stone hanging ouer the streets vnder which they walke dry in the greatest raine but the streetes are thereby made narrow and in the middest are dirty There be fiue market places in the first the Gentlemen and Students meet and walke in the second herbes are sold in the third corne in the fourth wood and in the fifth straw The aforesaid monastery of Saint Anthony is inhabited by Franciscan Friars and is much fairer then any other religious house the Church whereof was of old dedicated to Iuno and after to the Virgin Mary and at last to Saint Anthony The pauement thereof is of marble and the building very stately hauing in the top seuen globes couered with lead and three high towers The Chappell wherein S t Anthony lies is all of marble round about it the miracles are engrauen which they attribute to this Saint at whose feast day they vse to present for great gifts the hallowed girdles of this S t which they tie about their loyns and attribute strange effects thereunto Here is a statua of marble erected to Peter Bembus and in the large yard there is a horse-mans statua of brasse which the Senate of Venice erected to Gatta Melata In the Church of Franciscan Minorites there is a statua erected to Roctha Benello a Physitian sitting in his chaire In the aforesaid monastery of Saint Iustina the order of Saint Benedict was first established and from thence dispersed into Italy and the Church thereof was of old dedicated to Concord and after being made the Bishops Church was endowed with great rents These Monkes haue a blacke habit and in the Church they shew the reliques of the Martyr Saint Iustina of Saint Prosdosimus a Greeke who is said to haue beene Saint Peters Disciple and to haue conuerted Paduoa and to haue baptised Saint Iustina when shee suffered Martyrdome and likewise of Saint Maximus both Bishops and protecting Saints of the City as also of Saint Luke the Euangelist brought by Vrius a Monke from Constantinople but the Venetians say the reliques of Saint Luke are with them Biondus writeth that here was a Church dedicated to Iupiter and the sepulcher of Titus Liuius In the first court yard of this Monastery the incredible miracles of Saint Benedict are painted In the second I found this Epitaph Adoleseens tametsi proper as Hoc te saxum rogat vt se aspicias Deinde quod scriptum est legas
Hic sunt Poet a Pacuuij sita ossa Hoc volebam nessius ne esses vale D. M. Young man tho thou hastest This stone desires thee to behold it Then to read that is written Here are laid the bones of the Poet Pacunius This I would haue thee know Farewell D. M. A large and pleasant meadow lies before this Monastery There is another of the Benedictines in this City but those Friers weare a white habit liue with more seuere rules In the Monastery of Saint Augustines Hermits before named are the sepulchers of the Princes of the family Carraria The Cathedrall Church was of old Magnificall and to this day hath twelue Churches vnder it within the City The Marble chest containing Autenors bones being found when the foundation of the Almes-house was digged was then brought to the Church of Saint Laurence wherein was found a guilded sword and Latine verses in a barbarous stile shewing that the Letter A should be fatall to the City vvhich they say haue proued to true by Attila Agilulsus Accidanus Ansedissus and Albertus vnder vvhom the City vvas much afflicted This chest is erected vpon Marble pillers at the doore of the Church and vpon the wall these verses are written in Latine Iuclitus Antenor post dirutae maenia Troiae Transtulit huc Henetum Dardanidumque fugas Expulit Euganeos Patauinam condidit vrbem Quem tenet hac humili marmore casa Domus Famous Autenor Troyes walles pulled downe Henets and Dardans remnant here did traine Expeld th' Euganeans built faire Padnoa Towne Whom this low Marble house doth here containe Another Epitaph of the same Antenor seemes lately written by the very name of the City and sauoureth a Transalpine wit giuing small credit to Liuy or their fabulous Antiquities Hic iacet Antenor Paduanaeconditor vrbit Proditor ipse fuit hique sequnutur eum Antenor Padoaes founder lieth heere He was a Traytor these him follow neere The Monument of the Troian horse of wood is kept in the Pallace of the Capilist family whereupon they are called the Capilists of the horse There bee eighteene Cloysters of Nunnes in the City and two of repenting or illuminate women so they call whores entring Cloysters About the middest of the City is a faire Pallace where the Venetian Podesta or gouernour dwels the gallery whereof in which hee sitteth to iudge causes is very large and hath a high arched roofe hanging by Art not sustained by many pillers and the same is couered with lead and adorned with many pictures of the famous Painter Zoto and the length thereof is one hundred forty walking paces the breadth forty three paces There is the Statua of Iulius Paulus Doctor of Ciuill Law and of Peter Aponensis or d'Abano and of Titus Liuius and of Albertuo the Hermitan placed ouer the foure dores At the West end of this gallery is a Monument of Titus Liuius the Historian carued within the wall and these verses are written vpon the wall in Latine Ossatuumque caput liues tibi maxime Liui Prompto animo hic omnes composuera tui Tufamam aeternam Romae patriaeque dedisti Huic criens illi fortia facta canens At tibi dat Paetria hac simaiora liceret Haec totus stares aureus ipse loco Greatest Liuy thy countrey men haue laid Thy head and bones here with a ready minde Thy Countrey and Rome thou hast famous made Here borne while their greatest acts thou hast refinde Thy Countrey giues thee this if more it might Here all in gold thou shouldst stand shining bright This Titus Liuius died in the fourth yeere of the Empire of Tiberim Caesar and in the sixty six yeere of his age Not farre from this Monument stands a brazen Image of the same Liuy with this inscription in Latine The bones of Titus Liuy of Paduoa by all mortall mens consent worthy by whose penne truely inuincible the Acts of the inuincible Roman people should be written Besides they shew in the City Titus Liuius his house And this Monument orthese bones of him were brought thither from the Monastery of Saint Iustina The Court where the Senate meetes lieth neere to the said gallery of this Pallace where there is astone which they call the stone of Turpitude that is filthines or disgrace whereupon debtors which disclaim the hauing of goods to pay their debts do sit with their hinder parts bare that with this note of disgrace others may be terrified from borrow ing more then they can pay They haue a Pest-house called Lazaretto two like houses for Lepers and one Alsmes-house for the poore strangers another for Orphanes and a third for children cast out or left in the streets Neere the Church of Saint Luria there is a Well called the Diuels Well which they say was brought into the street by Art Magick out of the court-yard of a Gentleman denying water to his neighbours This City hath little trafficke though it lies very fit for the same because the Venetians draw it all to themselues But Gentlemen of all Nations come thither in great numbers by reason of the famous Vniuersity which the Emperour Frederick the second being offended with the City of Bologna planted herein the yeere 1222 or there abouts some comming to study the ciuill Law other the Mathemetickes Musick others to ride to practise the Art of Fencing and the excercises of dancing and actiuity vnder mostskilful professors of those Arts drawn hither by the same reason And Students haue here great if not to great liberty priuiledges so as men-slaiers are only punished with banishment which is a great mischiefe and makes strangers liue there in great iealousie of treason to be practised against their liues The Schoole where the professors of liberall Sciences teach is seated ouer against Saint Martins Church and was of old a publike Inne hauing the signe of an Axe which name it still retaineth The promotion of degrees is taken in the Bishops hall neere the Cathedrall Church and the Doctors are made in the chiefe Church And there bee eight Colledges built for poore Students of seuerall Prouinces The Athestine family of the Dukes of Ferrara and the Honorian family of the tyrant Acciolinus and the Carrarian family of their owne Princes had their beginning in this City as they write And they doe no lesse triumph of diuers Citizens borne heere namely Marsilius Mamerdinus a Minorite who being a Diuine wrote learnedly in the yeere 1329 of the power of the Pope and Emperour defending the maiesty of the Emperour against the Pope and Iulius Paulus a ciuill Lawyer Disciple to Papinius and liuing in the time of Titus Liuius and Francis Zabarella a ciuill Lawyer dying in the yeere 1417 and Peter D'Abano a Physician and Astrologer dying in the yeere 1312 whose body being to bee burnt for suspicion of his being a coniurer his Concubine buried but his picture and his bookes were burnt by the Emperors command and Michael Sauonarola a Physitian and
Titus Liuius a famous Historian And Lucius Aruntius Stella and Caius Valerius Flaccus all Poets celebrated by Martiall and Augelus Beoleus a Stage-player of wonderfull elocution dying in the yeere 1542 and Thraseas Peto a famous Souldier hated by Nero and Andreas Mantinia the best Painter of his age being knighted and dying about the yeere 1517 and Augustinus Zoto a Painter with other famous men The Second Booke CHAP. I. Of my iourney from Paduoa to Venice to Ferraria to Bologna to Rauenna and by the shore of the Adriaticke Sea to Ancona then crossing the breadth of Italy to Rome seated not farre from the Tirrhene Sea WHosoeuer comes into Italy and from whence soeuer but more especially if he come from suspected places as Constantinople neuer free from the plague hee must bring to the Confines a certificate of his health and in time of any plague hee must bring the like to any City within land where he is to passe which certificates brought from place to place and necessary to bee carried they curiously obserue and read This paper is vulgarly called Bolletino della sanita and if any man want it hee is shut vp in the Lazareto or Pest-house forty dayes till it appeare he is healthfull and this they call vulgarly far ' la quarantans Neither will the Officers of health in any case dispence with him but there hee shall haue conueuientlodging and diet at his pleasure In the spring of the yeere 1594 the Italians beginning the yeere the first of Ianuary I began my iourney to see Italy and taking boat at the East gate of Paduoa the same was drawne by horses along the Riuer Brenta hauing shot two or three small bridges and passed twenty miles we came to the Village Lizzafusina where there is a damme to stop the waters of Brenta lest in processe of time the passage being open the Marshes on that side of Venice should be filled with sand or earth and so a passage made on firme ground to the City which they are carefull to preuent and not without iust cause hauing found safety in their Iles when Italy was often ouerflowed by barbarous people Besides they say that this damme was made lest this fresh water should bee mingled with their salt waters since all the Gentlemen of Venice fetch their fresh water by boats from thence the poorer sort being content with Well water Heere whiles our boat was drawne by an Instrument out of the Riuer Brenta into the Marshes of Venice wee the passengers refreshed our selues with meat and wine and according to the custome agreed vpon the price of our meat before wee did eat it Then we entred our boat againe and passed fiue miles to Venice vpon the marshes thereof and each man paied for his passage a lire or twenty sols and for a horse more then ordinary that we might be drawne more swiftly from Paduoa to Lizzafusina each man paied foure sols but the ordinary passage is only sixteene sols We might haue had coaches but since a boat passeth daily too and fro betweene these Cities most men vse this passage as most conuenient For the boat is couered with arched hatches and there is very pleasant company so a man beware to giue no offence for otherwise the Lumbards carry shirts of Male and being armed as if they were in a Camp are apt to reuenge vpon shamefull aduantages But commonly there is pleasant discourse and the prouerb saith that the boat shall bee drowned when it carries neither Monke nor Student nor Curtesan they loue them too well to call them whores the passengers being for the most part of these kindes I remember a yong maide in the boat crossed her selfe whensoeuer an old woman looked vpon her fearing she should be a witch whereat the passengers often smiled seeing the girle not onely crosse her selfe for feare but thrust her crucifix towards the old womans eyes I said formerly that two Riuers Medoaci runne through Paduoa and that the greater by the name of Brenta running to the village Lizzafusina is stopped with a damme lest it should mingle it selfe with the salt marshes of Venice and that also the lesser Riuer by the name of Bachilio passeth through Paduoa This lesser streame runneth thence into the ditch Clodia and going out of it makes a hauen called de Chiozza which lieth in the way from Venice to Farraria and there it diuideth it selfe into two streames and entring the salt marshes makes the hauen of Venice called Malamocco Besides other Riuers falling from the Alpes through Frioli do increase these marshes which are salt by the tides of the sea though the same doth very little ebbe or flow in this Mediterranean or Inland sea And this hauen Malamocco is very large and deep and is defended with a banke from the waues of the Adriatique sea The Description of Uenice Vpon the West side of venice beyond the marshes lies the Territory of Paduoa On the North side beyond the marshes lies the Prouince Frioli On the South side beyond the marshes lies partly the firme land of Italy and partly the Adriatique sea On the East side beyond the marshes lies the Adriatique sea and the City consisteth all of Iles compassed round about with the saide marshes A The great channell B The market place of Saint Marke seated in the first Sextary of Saint Marke C The Cathedrall Church of Saint Peter the seate of the Patriarkes seated in the second Sextary called Caestelli Oliuolo D The third Sextary on this side the channell called di Canarigio E The Church of Saint Iames lies neere the bridge Rialto and is seated in the fourth Sextary of Saint Paul being the first of them beyond the channell The rest of the City is diuided into two other Sextaries beyond the channell namely the fifth di S ta Croce and the sixth de Dorso duro F The Church of Saint George the greater G And the Church of Santa Maria delle gratie both lie in the Sextary di Santa Croce H The Iland Giudecca belongs to the sextary di Dorso duro K The banke of the sea vulgarly Il Lido L The Iland Murana M The new Lazaretto N Mazorbo O Buran P San Franscesco del deserto Little Ilands Q Torcello R Duo Caestelli S La Certosa T S ta Hellena V Lazaretto Fecchio W Chioza X Malamocco the hauen within the sea banke Y Pcuegia an Iland Z San ' Georgiod ' Alega in the way as we come from Paduoa to Venice a little Iland 〈…〉 La Concordia a little Iland The Henetians of Paphlagonia their King Palemon being dead at the siege of Troy ioyned themselues to Antener and possessing these parts after they had driuen out the Euganeans called the countrey Venice and through their great vertue were made Citizens of Rome and their chiefe men Senators thereof But when Attila King of the Huns inuaded Italy and the Empire of the West being weakned did destroy the same the said Henetians came out of
Histria now called Frioli and from the Territory of Paduoa and other Italians came from adioyning parts into certaine Ilands compassed with marshes that they might be safe from those Barbarians and about the yeere of our Lord 421 began to build a City which prouing a safe retreate from the tyranny then continually oppressing Italy in processe of time by ciuill Arts grew incredibly These Ilands were in number sixty neere adioyning and twelue more distant which being all ioyned in one haue made this stately City and the chiefe of them were called in the vulgar tongue Rialto Grado Heraclca Caestello Oliuolo The Iland Grado was of old the seat of the Patriarkes after that the Patriarchate of Aquilegia in Histria was by the Popes authority translated thither but now the seat of the Patriarkes is remoued to Caestello Oliuolo At first Consuls gouerned the City then Tribunes chosen out of each I le one till the yeere 697 when the Citizens abiding in Heraclea chose them a Duke who dwelt in the same I le After forty yeeres they chose a Tribune of souldiers in stead of a Duke with like authority as hee had and at last in the yeere 742 meeting in the Iland Malamocco they chose a Duke againe and remoued his seat from Heraclea to that Iland Then Pipin raigning in Italy about the yeere 800 the Venetians demolished Heraclea which was built againe but neuer recouered the old dignity being more notable in the seat of the Bishop then in the number of Citizens For most of the Gentlemen remoued their dwellings into the Iland Rialto otherwise called Riuo alto either of the depth of the marshes or because it was higher then the other Ilands and therevpon called Ripa alta Whereupon that Iland getting more dignity then the rest the Citizens in processe of time ioyned the sixty Ilands lying neere one to the other with some foure hundred bridges of which Ilands as is aboue said and of the twelue more distant this stately City consisteth Then by common counsell the seat of the Dukes was established in this Iland who built the stately Pallace which at this day we see And now a new Dukedome arising out of these salt marshes of the sea from that time daily grew in dignity But the City was first called Kialto and after of the countrey from whence the Citizens came was called Venetia or in the plurall number Venetiae because many Dukedomes and Prouinces or many Nations were ioyned in one and at this day is vulgarly called Venegia That the City was first called Rialto appeares by old records of Notaries written in these wordes After the vse of Venice In the name of eternall God amen subscribed in such a yeere of Riuoalto and in these wordes after the vse of the Empire In the name of Christ amen subscribed dated at Venice This stately City built in the bottome of the gulfe of the Adriatique sea in the midst of marshes vpon many Ilands is defended on the East side against the sea by a banke of earth which hath fiue or some say seuen mouths or passages into the sea and is vulgarly called Il Lido and being so placed by nature not made by Art bendeth like a bowe and reacheth thirty fiue miles and by the aforesaid passages the ships and the tides of the sea goe in and out and the deepe marshes whereof I haue spoken are made of these salt waters and of diuers fresh waters falling from the Alpes and vulgarly called il Tagliamonts La liuenza la praac la Brenta Il Po l' Adice and il Bacchiglione On the West side the City is compassed with marshes and after fiue miles with the Territory of Paduoa On the North side with marshes and beyond them partly with the Prouince Frioli partly with the aforesaid sea banke And vpon the South side with many Ilands wherein are many Churches and Monasteries like so many Forts and beyond them with the firme land of Italy The City is eight miles in circuit and hath seuenty parishes wherein each Church hath a little market place for the most part foure square and a publike Well For the common sort vse well water and raine water kept in cesternes but the Gentlemen fetch their water by boat from the land It hath thirty one cloysters of Monkes and twenty eight of Nunnes besides chappels and almes-houses Channels of water passe through this City consisting of many Ilands ioyned with Bridges as the bloud passeth through the veines of mans body so that a man may passe to what place he will both by land and water The great channell is in length about one thousand three hundred paces and in breadth forty paces and hath onely one bridge called Rialto and the passage is very pleasant by this channell being adorned on both sides with stately Pallaces And that men may passe speedily besides this bridge there be thirteene places called Traghetti where boats attend called Gondole which being of incredible number giue ready passage to all men The rest of the channels running through lesse streets are more narrow and in them many bridges are to be passed vnder The aforesaid boats are very neat and couered all saue the ends with black cloth so as the passengers may goe vnseene and vnknowne and not bee annoyed at all with the sunne winde or raine And these boats are ready at call any minute of the day or night And if a stranger know not the way hee shall not need to aske it for if hee will follow the presse of people hee shall be sure to bee brought to the market place of Saint Marke or that of Rialto the streets being very narrow which they paue with bricke and besides if hee onely know his Hosts name taking a boat he shall be safely brought thither at any time of the night Almost all the houses haue two gates one towards the street the other towards the water or at least the bankes of the channels are so neere as the passage by water is as easie as by land The publike boats with the priuate of Gentlemen and Citizens are some eight hundred or as others say a thousand Though the floud or ebbe of the salt water bee small yet with that motion it carrieth away the filth of the City besides that by the multitude of fiers and the situation open to all windes the ayre is made very wholsome whereof the Venetians bragge that it agrees with all strangers complexions by a secret vertue whether they be brought vp in a good or ill ayre and preserueth them in their former health And though I dare not say that the Venetians liue long yet except they sooner grow old and rather seeme then truly be aged I neuer in any place obserued more old men or so many Senators venerable for their grey haires and aged grauity To conclude the situation of Venice is such as the Citizens abound with all commodities of sea and land and are not onely most safe from their enemies on
Beretta Ducale which the Dukes weare at their Creation being of inestimable value for the multitude and price of the Iewels especially of a diamond vpon the crowne of the Cap and a chrysolite sct in the midst I saw two crownes of Kings with twelue stomachers of pure gold set with rich Iewels which the Noblewomen wore at Constantinople before the Turkes tooke it and twelue other Crownes all of pure massy gold all which the Venetians diuiding with the French had for their part when they tooke Constantinople in the yeere 1203. I saw a saphyre of extraordinary bignes and a Diamond which the French King Henry the third gaue to this state when he returned that way from Poland and two whole Vnicornes hornes each more then foure foot long and a third shorter and a little dish of a huge price with innumerable vessels which for price rarenes and workemanship are highly valued They say that a Candian thiefe tooke away this treasure which is kept with many doores and barres of iron but that he restored it being betraied by his fellow In a Chappell of this Church is a Font of brasse with a brasen image of Saint Iohn baptizing and the Altar thereof is of a stone brought out of Asia vpon which they say Christ did sit when he preached at Tyrus but others say it is the stone vpon which the Patriarke Iacob did sleepe They shew there the chaire of the blessed Virgin of stone and two peeces of marble spotted with the blood of Iohn Baptist and the marble sepulcher of Duke Andrea Dandoli In the Chappell of the Cardinall Zeno they shew the Rocke strucke by Moses and distilling water and two precious peeces of porphery In the vpper Vestry they shew the picture of the Virgin painted by Saint Lukes hand and the ring of Saint Marke and his Gospell written with his owne hand and a peece of the Crosse of Christ and of the Pillar to which he was tied and Bookes couered with massy siluer and candlestickes chalice and many vessels of siluer guilded all set with little precious stones and the Bishops Miter of great price and many rich vestures for the Priests The chiefe Priest of this Church must be a gentleman of Venice and though hee be no Bishop yet the Popes haue giuen him great priuiledges and he is to be chosen by the Duke because the Dukes built this Church wherupon it is euer since called the Dukes Chappell This Church of Saint Marke is not vnworthily called the golden Church for the rich ornaments thereof especially for the Images thereof painted ala mosaita like a worke engrauen For the workemen doe incorporate gold with little square peeces of glasse and guild the same ouer then breaking them in very small peeces they lay them vpon the pictures Among the Parish Churches belonging to Saint Marke is the Chappell of Saint Theodore where the Inquisitors of Religion sit thrice a weeke namely the Popes Nuntio and the Patriarke an Inquisitor by his place and at this time a Dominican Friar and three Senators chosen by the Senate Likewise the little but most faire Church of Saint Germinian is seated in the market place of Saint Marke whose Priest according to the custome of Venice is chosen by them that haue unmoueable goods in the Parish and is confirmed by the Patriarke in which Church the most notable things are three Images grauen vpon the great Altar and the sepulcher of Iohn Peter Stella Great Chancellor and the Altar of Lodonito Spinello and the Monument of Iames and Francis Sansouine famous engrauers In the Church of Saint Mary Zebenigo the Monuments of Sebastian Fosearint a Phylosopher and of Ierome Molini a Florentine Poet and the picture of the Lords Supper In the Church Saint Vitale the artificiall statua of that Saint on horsebacke In the Church Saint Angelo built by the family of the Morosmi the Altar of the holy Sacrament In the Church of Saint Fantino the Architecture and among other Images the head of a Crucifix and the singular Images of the blessed Virgin and Saint Iohn painted standing by the Crosse. In the Vestry of Saint Fantino whose Monkes vse to accompany and comfort those that are executed the two Altars and in the first of them the brasen Images of the blessed Virgin and Saint Iohn and in the second the excellent Marble Image of Saint Ierome In the Parish Church of Saint Luke seated in the middest of the City amonument of foure most learned men and another of Peter Aretine called the scourge of Princes are the most remarkable things The Inquisitors worthily condemned the bookes of this Aretine for the filthinesse of them howsoeuer they be yet commonly sold and the common report is that they also commanded his horrible Epitaph to be blotted out which was set in this Church of Saint Luke in these words Qui gaice l'Aretin ' Poeta Tusco Chi disse mal ' d'ogniun ' four a che di Dio Scusandosi dicendo is nol ' conosco Here lies the Aretine a Poet of Tuscany Who spake ill of all but of God Excusing himselfe saying I know him not Of the same Aretine saith Ariosto Ecco il flagello de'i Principi Il Diuin ' Pietro Aretino Behold the scourge of Princes The Diuine Peter Arctine In the stately Church of Saint Saluatore the Marble image of Saint Ierem another of him and a third of Saint Laurence and the great Altar of pure siluer are curiously ingrauen and in the chappell of the holy Sacrament the Image of Mary Magdalen and in another chappell the Image of Saint Augustine praying among his Monkes and not farre off two Images of the Monument erected to Duke Francis Venerio all painted with great Art and the Altar of the blessed Virgn equall or to be preferred to the best in the City the Altar of S t Antony and two Monuments of Dukes all adorned with rare engrauen and painted Images and a faire paire of Organs In the Church of Saint Bartholmew the picture of Manna falling from heauen and the brasen Images of Christ of the foure Euangelists ' and six Angels In the Church of Saint Giuliano many pictures but especially that of Christ carrying his Crosse and neere the doore another of Saint Ierome and two Marble Images vpon the Altar In the Church of Saint Stephen rich with Marble and pillers the Marble Images of the Apostles with the pillars whereon they stand and the Altar ingrauen with brasse and the Monument of Iames Suriani and another of Anthony Cornari with this inscription Antenij ad Cineres viator adsta Hic Cornarins ille quem salebant Rerum principia Deos docentem Olim Antenoria stupere Athena Accitus Patrias subinde adoras Ornatus titulis fascibusque Doctrina venetam beauit vrbem At the ashes of Anthony passenger stand This is that Cornarius whom of old Teaching the principles of Nature and the Gods Antenors Athens was wont to admire After called home to his
Countrey Graced with Titles and Magistracy With his Learning he made Venice happy These things I say are in these Churches most remarkeable The second sextary on this side the channell vulgarly I l sestiero di Castello hath the name of the Castle Oliuolo which seated towards the sea may seeme to be diuided from the Citie yet it is ioyned thereto by a long bridge Of old it was a City by it selfe and therefore the Dukes Throne being established in the Iland Realto the Bishops seat was made here who is inuested by the Duke and was consecrated by the Patriarke of Grado till that being extinguished this was raised to the dignity of a Patriarke in the yeere 1450. In the Cathedrall Church of Saint Peter this is written vpon the Chappell in Latine Who ere thou be that approachest worship Within these grates of Iron the crosse is inclosed that is adorned with three haires of the beard of Christ with a naile the cup in which he drunke to his Disciples and with a peece of the true Crosse c. This Patriarcall seat hath two old pulpits of marble the monuments of the Bishops and Patriarkes which with the adioining Pallace of the Patriarkes are the most remarkeable things thereof In the Church of Iohn Baptist in Bragola many curious pictures the sepulcher of that Saint guilded ouer the Image of Christ the pictures of the lesse Altar especially that of Christ baptised that of Saint Hellen that of Christs resurrection and the liuely picture of Christ sitting with his Apostles at his last supper In the Church of Saint Mary Formosa this inscription is read Vincentius Capellus most skilful in Nauigation and Prefect of the Gallies nolesse praised of old who receiued signes of honour from Henry the seuenth King of Britany c. There vpon the great and very faire Altar the Images of the foure Euangelists and vpon the top that of Christs resurrection and of two Angels In the Church Saint Marina the statua on horsebacke erected by the Senate to Tadeo della volpe of Imola and the great Altar with the pillars of prophry In the Church of Saint Leone the Images of Saint Ierome of Christ at supper with his Disciples of Iohn the Euangelist and Saint Michaell all painted by the hands of most skilfull workemen In the Church of Saint Anthony foure most faire Altars in the second whereof the Image of Christ and in the third rich with excellent pillars the History of ten thousand Martyres painted and in the fourth the espousals of the blessed Virgin areal painted with singular Art and a foot statua erected by the Senate to Victor Pisanus In the Church of Saint Dominicke the library and pictures of the Altars In the Church of Saint Francis di Paola many things giuen vpon vow and hung vpon the wals In that of Saint Francis della vigna a very faire and stately Church the Altar of the Chappell belonging to the Family Grimani and the pictures brasen images of the same and in the Chappell of the Family Dandoli the picture of Saint Laurence martyred and in the Chappell of the Iustiniani being very rich the Images of the foure Euangelists and twelue Prophets In the Chappell of our Lady the monument of Marke Anthony Morosini Knight and Procurator famous in the warre which the French King Lewis the twelth made in Lombardy and thrice Ambassador from the State also the famous library of this monastery and the bels which they say were brought out of England after Queene Maries death In the Church of the Saints Iohn and Paul being one of the chiefe Churches the situation the architecture the pictures and the monuments of sixteene Dukes and another of Marke Anthony Bragadini who hauing defended the Iland Cyprus from the Turkes when they tooke it had his skinne fleed off by the command of the tyrant against his faith in the yeere 1571. Also three horsemens statuaes one to Leonardo de Prato Knight of Rhodes another to Nichola Orsino Count of Pitiglia both erected in the Church the third for greater honour erected in the market place to Bartholmeo Coleoni of Bergamo for his good seruice to the State in their Warres all three crected by the Senate Also a foot statua erected by the Senate to Deunys Naldo a most valiant Commander of their foote and the stately sepulcher of Iames de Cauallis and the Chappell of the Rossary magnificall in the architecture in rare marbles in the art of engrauers and excellent pictures especially that of Christ crucified In the Church of Saint Mary delle Virgini a Cloyster of Nunnes built by the Dukes and belonging to them by speciall right two marble sepulchers In the Church Saint Gioseppe the admirable monument of the Germani with admirable Images engrauen of the Duke Grimani created and his Dutchesse Morosini crowned and the like curiously wrought also the Image of Christ transfigured and another of Christ buried are the most remarkeable things And whereas the grauen images of this Church be of rare beauty they say that the chiefe of them were brought out of England after the death of Queene Mary In the Church of Saint Fustina a parish Church and yet the chiefe cloyster of Nunnes twice rebuilt by the family Morosini two curious statuaes of marble of Paros In the Church of the Holy sepulcher being a cloyster of Nunnes the sepulcher of Christ like that at Ierusalem of ophites and like stones In Saint Zachary a cloyster of Nunnes the pall of the Virgin painted another like it in the chappell the sepulcher or Altar vnder which the said Saint father to Iohn Baptist is laid and at the backe of the great Altar three sepulchers of Porphry and Ophyts the stones of the great Altar and the stately architecture of the Church are the things most remarkeable and the same cloyster hath great reuenues In generall vnderstand that the Churches are for the most part built of bricke and some few of free stone though they be so couered with Marbles and like stones as the bricke or free stone is scarce seene in the inside In the Priory of S t Iohn belonging of old to the Templary Knights now to the Knights of Rhodes or Malta it is remarkeable that the reuenues thereof be great and that the Priory is giuen by the Pope which Paul the third gaue to the Cardinall Saint Angelo his nephew for so they call their bastards whom Alexander the Cardinall of Farness succeeded yet not as Cardinall but as Knight of Malta and after him the Pope gaue it to the Cardinall Ascanio Colonna And the most remarkable things in the Church are the pall of the great Altar the supper of our Lord painted the picture of Christ speaking with the woman of Samaria and that of Herods banquet when he gaue Iohn Baptists head to Herodia The Greeke Church belongs to this sextary built in Rio di San ' Lorenzo The almes-house Saint Lazero feeds foure hundred or fiue hundred poore people
for all that beg are sent thither and they haue many of these houses These are the most remarkeable things in the Churches of this sextary The third sextary or sixth part of the City on this side the channell meaning towards the gulfe of Venice vulgarly is called Ilsestiero di Canaregio of the canes or pipes which they were wont to vse in the building of ships In the Church of the Prophet Ieremy built by three families Morosini Malipieri and Runandi the sepulcher of Saint Magnus who built eight Churches when the City was first founded and the Image of the blessed Virgin much adored In the Church of Saint Marciali the Images aswel of the great Altar as of the Altar of Angelo Raphaeli In the Apostles Church where excellent sermons are made in the Lent the carued Image of our Lady vpon the Altar and her picture vpon the same painted by Saint Luke In the Church of Saint Iohn Chrysostome the pictures of three Theologicall vertues of Saint Marke and the carued Images of the Virgin and the Apostles In the Church of Saint Giob the ingrauing of the chappell of the Grimani and of the Altar of the Foscari the picture of Christ in the garden with his Apostles sleeping and the pictures of the next Altar namely that of the Virgin Saint Sabastian and Saint Giob In the Church of Saint Mary de serui the pictures of the great Altar especially of the Virgins assumption and also of the Virgins Altar and of Saint Augustins Altar especiall that of the wise men adoring Christ and the carued Images of another Altar the Marble sepulcher of Duke Andrea Vendramini being the fairest of all other in the City and the Oratory of the banished men of Lucea who first brought into this City the weauing of silke and of whom many were made Gentlemen of Venice In the Church of Saint Mary del ' Orto the huge Image of Saint Christopher the History of Moses and the prophicies of the last iudgement painted the painting of the arched-roof rare for perspectiue Art and che chiefe of that kinde the Monument of Iasper Contarini Cardinall of the Marble of Paros and the pillers of our Ladies Altar with many Marble stones In the Church of Saint Mary de Crostechieri the ancient pictures the notable pall of Saint Laurence worth seuen thousand crownes and the pictures in the chappel of Lewis Vsperi In the Church of Saint Lucia the Monument and chappell of the Saints In the chappell of Saint Luigi the great Altar fairest of those built of wood In the Church of Saint Mary of the Miracles the fairest of any Nunnery for the beauty and rare stones the walles couered with Marble two Marble Images of two children vnder the Organs the works of famous Praxitiles the Images of marble of Paros the stones of Porphery and Ophytes wonderfully carued the great Altar of Marble ingrauen with great Art the brasen Images of Saint Peter Saint Paul and of Angels These are the things most remarkeable In the Church of Saint Mary of Mercy Sansouine witnesseth this Epitaph which I will set downe left any should thinke incredible the like practises of Papists against Emperours and Iohn the King of England in these words To Ierom Sauina a Citizen of Venice Prior of Saint Maries notably learned in good Arts but more renowmed for piety which hee also shewed at his death towards his enemy who gaue him poyson in the challice at the Lords Supper by many arguments of his charity He died in the yeere MDCI. Also in the great schoole the same is witnessed in these wordes To Ierom Sauina wickedly killed by poyson giuen O horrible villany in our Lords Supper c. The fourth sextary or sixth part of the City and first of those beyond the channell meaning towards the Territorie of Paduoa is vulgarly called of the chiefe Church Il sestiero di San ' Polo In which Church of Saint Paul the most remarkeable things are these the picture of Christ washing his Apostles feet the pall of siluer guilded and the precious stones vpon the great Altar the pictures of the Altar of the holy Sacrament and of the blessed Virgin and the Images of Saint Andrew and the Apostles vpon pillars In the very faire market place of the same Church of old a market was weekely held and to the yeere 1292 the market was held heere on Wednesday and in the market place of Saint Marke on the Saturday but at this day none is held here but both in the place of Saint Marke for the benefit of those that dwell there and that the houses may bee more deerely let which belong to Saint Marke Neere the Church of Saint Siluestro the Patriarkes of Grado dwelt till the Bishop of Castello Oliuolo was made Patriarke In the Church of Saint Iames of Rialto narrow but very faire the precious stones and the pictures of great Art and antiquitie and the fiue Altars In the Church of Saint Mary Gloriosa faire and great the Belfrey stately built the Monument of the most famous Painter Titiano two Images of Marble neere the great doore the Marble Image of Saint Iohn ouer against the Florentine chappell the chancell paued with Marble and adorned with the grauen Images of the Prophets at the charge of the family Morosini the rare pictures of the great Altar the Epitaph of Francis Bernardo who being imployed into England in his yong yeeres made peace betweene King Henry and the French King Francis which many great men had attempted in vaine and for this braue act was Knighted by both the Kings These things in this church are most remarkeable The fifth sextary and the second beyond the channel of the chiefe Church is called il Sestiero di Santa Croce in which Church being a cloyster of Nunnes Duke Dominick Morosini lies buried with this inscription Here lies Dominick Morosini Duke of Venice with Sophia his Dutchesse hee was a good Duke and most wise full of faith and truth c. He tooke the City Tyrus and vnder him Istria and Pola were subdued with fifty gallies where of were Captaines his sonne and Marino Gradonico This glorious Duke died in the yeere MCLVI Also the Marble pillers of the great Altar the brasen Angels and the brasen Images of Christ rising from the dead of Saint Francis and Saint Anthony In the Church of Saint Simion Prophet the picture of Christs supper with his Apostles In the Church of St. Giacomo dell ' Orio a piller esteemed for a Iewell a Marble pulpit one of the fairest in the City and the Images of the chappell for christning In the Church of Saint Eustace the pictures of Christ whipped of Christ carrying his crosse and of Christ praying in the garden all of great Art In the Church of Saint Mary Mater Domini the great Altar of most pure siluer and the passion of Christ ingrauen the Altar of the blessed Virgin with her picture and the Altar of the holy Sacrament
with the rich Porphery and Ophyte stones and the Marble Images of Saint Marke and Saint Iohn the Euangelist In the Church of Saint Andrew the fairest of this sextary and a cloyster of Nunnes the pictures of Christ crucified and of his supper with his Apostles and the most faire Altars of the Virgin Saint Anthony and Saint Nicholas In the Church of Saint George the greater giuing name to the Iland in which it is seated ouer against the market place of Saint Marke and the chiefe Church next that of Saint Marke the pall of the great Altar and the brasen Images two brasen Images of the Organs the seats of the wal-nut tree wonderfully ingrauen another Altar built by Vincent Morosini the Altar of Saint Stephen the first Martyr the Altar of the blessed Virgin and her Image the Altar of Saint Lutia with her Image and the wonderfull crucifix of another Altar In the Church of Saint Mary delle gratie the infinite gifts hung vp there vpon vowes In the Church of the Holy Ghost the Pall of the great Altar and the marble stones and pillars and the brasen candlestickes and a skreene of brasse guilded and the pictures of Saint Markes Altar the candlesticke of the great chappel curiously carued the rare Images and arched roofe of the Altar of the Cratch being all the worke of the famous Painter Titiano whose rare image also the Friars haue and in the publike refectory of the Friars the admirable pictures of the resurrection of Sampson and especially of Christ supping with his Apostles In the monastery of Saint Hellen giuing name to the Iland and founded by Alexander Boromeo and being one of the fairest in the City a crosse of inestimable value In the Church of Saint Andrew della Certosa the monument of Austine Barbadici who hartening the confederates to fight was chiefe cause of the victory against the Turkes by sea in the yeere 1571. and while he liued by faire and rough tearmes kept the league vnbroken which presently vpon his death was dissolued In the Church of Saint Nicholas del Liro the sepulcher of Duke Dominicke Contarini rich with porphery and ophyte stones and a well of fresh water lying very neere the sea and hauing so full a spring as it serueth all the shippes and gallies The almes-house of Saint Lazerus is built for lepers The old Lazereto is a pest-house where the Prior and Physitians haue yeerely fee to attend the sicke Not farre from that is the new Lazareto whither they are sent who are suspected to haue the plague but as soone as they begin to be sicke they are sent thence to the old Lazareto and hither all suspected men are sent to try their health which if they keepe for forty daies then they are set free These things are in this sextary most remarkeable The sixth sextary and the third and last beyond the channell is of the forme of the Iland called Il sestiero di dorso duro In the Church of the Saints Geruaso and Protese the grauen Images and pictures in the chappell of the holy sacrament In the cloyster of Saint Agnes the Prioresse bringeth vp six Virgins which being of ripe yeeres are either married or made Nunnes and sixe more of good families sent thither in their place In the Church of Saint Gregory there is a second monument erected to Anthony Bragadini traiterously slaine by the Turkes at the taking of Cyprus The Iland Giudecca belongs to this sextary the chiefe Church whereof is Saint Eufemia it hauing nine other Churches The Church of the Iesuites is called Saint Mary of Humblenes and it hath pictured with great art the pals of the passion of Christ of the Apostles Peter and Paul of Christ circumcised and of Saint Francis and the great Altar is one of the fairest in the City In the Church Carmini a singular paire of Organs the Images of the blessed virgins foure Euangelists and Christ crucified and vpon the altar of Christ crucified two stones shining like christall which are esteemed for iewels In the Church of Saint Mary of Charity the rich chappell of San Saluadore In the most faire Church of the Capuchine Friars seated in the Iland Giudecca the images of brasse and the faire screene of the great Altar In the most faire Church of Saint Mary the greater being a Nunnery the rare pictures of the greater chappell In the Church of the holy crosse Della Giudecca the monument of the Cardinall Francis Morosini sent Ambassador to the Turke and Nuncio to Pope Sixtus the fifth in the French Court and here the rest of his Family vse to be buried The Monastery of the conuerted is for whores repenting Another is built for Orphan Virgins the Church whereof hath rich screenes of marble with brasse images and in the same liue some two hundred and fifty Virgins of almes and by the worke of their hands which comming to ripe yeeres are either married or made Nunnes These things are in this sextary most remarkeable The Venetians haue six fraternities or great schooles such as be also at Rome and the Gentlemen and Citizens all giue their names to one of them as in England at London the Citizens haue companies into which the King Queene and Nobles many times vouchsafe to be admitted And in these schooles as it were in Vniuersities they vse to haue exercises of religion The first of them is called Saint Mary of Charity after the rule whereof the rest are framed and the great Guardian thereof is chosen yeerly and weares a skarlet gowne with large sleeues which they call Ducall sleeues and he hath the title of Magnifito by priuiledge These schooles giue dowries yeerely to 1500. Virgins and distribute among the poore much money meale and clothes for besides many gifts by last testaments daily giuen to those vses each of the schooles hath some fiue or sixe thousand duckets in yeerely reuenew and they are gouerned like common wealthes In the said schoole the Images of the Apostles and the pictures especially one of the blessed Virgin and another of the foure Doctors of the Church are very faire In the schoole of Saint Iohn the Euangelist the passion of Christ is wonderfully figured and Phillip the second King of Spaine and his sonne Ferdinand and Don Iohn of Austria and other Princes haue beene of this fraternity The third is of mercy The fourth of Saint Marke The fifth of Saint Rocco passing the rest in ceremonies pompe and number of brethren The sixth is of Saint Theodore and each of these hath his Church and Pallace and precious monuments and these are subiect to the counsell of ten for there be many lesse schooles each art hauing his schoole and these are subiect to the old Iustice and out of them when need is souldiers are pressed It remaines to adde something of the magnificall building of this City And in the first place the market place of Saint Marke is paued with bricke and it consists of foure market
built of free-stone but according to the building of Italy are almost flat vpon the top so as that vpper roofe hath neither chambers nor windowes The houses are not built one neere the other but diuided with most pleasant gardens and dispersed On the North side of the City without the walles the Duke hath a large Parke for hunting and to keepe therein many strange beasts There be two stately Pallaces besides the Dukes one of the Bentiuoli the other of Caesar Nephew to Duke Alfonso who being eighty yeeres old begot him of a Concubine and because the Popes had intruded themselues into the succession of this Dukedome which this holy mother the Church daily gaped to enioy vpon the want of lawfull heires males the Duke could not obtaine by intreaty or any money to haue the right of succession conuaied to this Nephew And howsoeuer he were now eighty yeeres old yet the opinion of his command in miltary affaires made the common people report that the Pope would grant the succession to his Nephew vpon condition he should lead an Army into Hungary against the Turkes But the euent shewed that the Popes thought nothing lesse for this Caesar defending his possession fearefully the Popes haue since that time and long before I wrote this inuaded this Dukedome and vnited it to the Patrimony of Saint Peter The circuit of the City is said to containe seuen miles and in the same is an Vniuersity little frequented and a faire Colledge wherein the professors read The Duke hath two stables in the one one hundred twenty horses for coaches in the other fifty for the saddle In the Beneuentane Monastery is the sepulcher of the Poet Ariosto borne in this City and it is of red Marble with this inscription in Latine To Lodwick Ariosto Poet a Patrician of Ferraria Augustine Musicus to so great a man and so well deseruing of him hath caused this Monument and Image of Marble to be erected at his owne proter cost in the yeere of the Lord M D LXXIII Alfonso the second being Duke he liued LIX yeeres and died in the yeere of the Lord M D XXXIII the eighth of the Ides of Iune The Statua of Marble is to the shoulder and is set ouer his Tombe with those verses Hic Ariostus est situs qui comico Aures Theatri sparsit vrbanas sale Satyraque mores strinxit acer improbos Heroa culto qui furentem carmine Datumque curas cecinit atque pralia Vates corona dignus vnus triplici Cui trina constant quae fuere vatibus Graijs Latinis vixque Hetruscis singula Here Ariosto lies whose pen still feasts The Ciuill eares on stage with comick ieasts Whose Sayters scourg'd the foule sins of his time Who sung the frantick worthy in sweet ryme Great Dukes fierce battels and their pensiue care Thus hath one Poet three crownes to his share Greeke Poets Latines Tuscanes each scarce one Of these attain'd he hath all three alone In the Monastery Certosa there is a round pinacle the Monument of Duke Borso In the Church of Saint Mary of the Angels are laid vp some trophies of victory against the Venetians which when a Citizen of Ferrara shewed vpon a time to a Venetian in fashion of bragging he answered pleasantly and wittily to my remembrance when you of Ferrara got this victory against vs wee tooke the Countrey of Poleseno from you and though we were ouercome yet we keepe that to this day Ierom Saucnorolla a Frier was born in this City who in a late age was of great fame authority among the Florentines and for some opinions of religion was burnt by the Pope Here I paied thirty bolinei for a meale in the chiefe Inne where we were well vsed when in baser Innes we had paied more with vile vsage From hence they reckon thirty foure miles to Bologna Wee went on foot three miles to the village La Torre della fossa and in the midst of the way wee obserued the old bed of the Riuer Po which was now dried vp From hence we hired a boat for foure bolinei and foure quatrines and passed in a broad ditch betweene high reedes to a place called Mal ' Albergo that is the ill lodging being nine miles and we vnderstood there that foure souldiers were drowned the day before in the said ditch by their own folly playing and tumbling in the boat We had now passed seuen miles in the State of Bologno and lodging here each man paid for his supper sixteene bolinei The next morning a boat went from hence to Bologna but since they asked for each mans passage twenty two bolinei and that the day was faire and the way very pleasant we chose to goe on foot these eighteene miles to Bologna In the mid-way we came to a Countrey Inne where they demanding excessiue prices for meat we for sparing in the beginning of our long iourney and loth to be made a prey out of their opinion of our gluttony tooke bread and wine of them at the knowne price and dined with some prouisions we had with vs namely one pound of Raisons for which we had paid seuen bolinei a pound of figges at the same price and a pound of Almonds at the same price bought at Ferraria to this purpose After this refection we went the rest of our iourney through pleasant fields manured after the Lumbard fashion before discribed When we entred the gates of Bologna the souldiers demanded a curtesie of vs which wee gladly gaue them perceiuing they would not search our portmanteaus which otherwise by their office they may do This is a City of Flaminia of old subiect to the Exarchate of Rauenna til the Eastern Emperors were cast out of Italy by the conspiring of the Popes with the Kings of Lombardy and so the Exarchate was vnited to that Kingdome and shortly after the Popes likewise conspiring with the French King Charles the Great against the Kings of Lombardy and diuiding Italy betweene them this City fell to the Popes share howsoeuer they did not then attaine the possession thereof or at least did not keepe it long for afterwards the City was subiect to many tyrants sometimes vnder the Vicounts of Milano and at last inuaded by the Citizens thereof namely the Family of Bentiuoli vnder pretence to defend the common liberty till the Pope about the time of the French King Lewis the twelfth conspiring with him to inuade Italy did cast out the Bentiuoli and by little and little reducing the Citizens to obedience and vsing them to the Church gouernement did at last set ouer them his Podesta and a Cardinall Legate both strangers to gouerne them This populous City is of a round forme and of great circuit but the wals are round about almost fallen downe The City is seated in a large plaine and such is the whole territory onely on the South-side without the wals lie the Apennine mountaines which diuide Italy almost in the midst all the
length thereof euen from Genoa to the furthest limits of the Kingdome of Naples bordering vpon he sea towards the East On the same South-side are the schooles of the Vniuersity and the monastery of Saint Michaell and the rich stately monastery of Saint Dominicke in which is the sepulcher of the said Saint curiously engrauen and of white marble and vnder a rich skreene lies the body which they superstitiously worship and they shew the place where the Saint gaue vp his last breath Their refectory or place where the Monkes eat is faire and large and the Cellars of wine and their store thereof are so great as would better become the Temple of Bacchus then a Cloyster of Monkes It hath two foure-square Court yards with arched Cloysters to walke vnder and they be pleasantly planted round about with Cedars of which they especially esteeme one planted by the hands of that Saint who likewise with his owne hand did beautifie a well of water no lesse esteemed by them Their publike Library is much esteemed for many bookes of written hand wherein they brag to haue a Bible written by the hand of Esdras The building of this monastery is very stately and it hath large galleries as well below vnder the Arches as round about in the vpperroofe Here is a monument of Hans that is Iohn sonne to the Emperour Fredericke the second they haue a place giuen by priuiledge to the Dutch for buriall The building of the City is anticke and many houses seeme to haue beene built by the Lombards The foundations of the houses are of free stone and the rest for the most part of bricke built with arched Cloysters towards the street vnder which they walke dry in the greatest raine The Pallaces of Gentlemen are built towards the street stately on the inside but with little shew on the outside and they all seeme to haue beene built of old The windowes are not glased which the Venetians brag to be proper to their City as a thing to be wondered at but they are couered with paper whereof part is oyled ouer Towards the West side of the City is a large market place two forked in which is a faire conduit of water with the Images of Neptune and diuers Goddesses powring water out of their mouthes and breasts and all made of mettall In this market place is the Senate-house vulgarly called Il palazo della signoria on the one side whereof are the Courts of iudgement on the other the lodgings of the Gouernour At the very entry is a statua of brasse erected to Pope Gregory the thirteenth a Citizen of Bologna which appeares by an inscription in the Cathedrall Church and within the Pallace is a statua of white stone erected to Pope Paul the third and another statua of a Gyant The staires of the Pallace are made winding and rising by little and little giue so easie an ascent as a horse may goe vp without difficulty the like staites be at Ferrara in the Dukes Pallace and at Venice in the steeple of Saint Marke and at Torge a City of Germany Within the Pallace is the statua of Iulius the second Bishop or rather the God Mars of Rome engrauen to his shoulders with aleane and longface Vpon the doore of the Pallace is written in golden letters that the Emperour Charles the fifth held his Court there when the Pope put the imperiall Crowne vpon his head in the Church of Saint Petronius which Church is of the old Lombard building and this Saint is the protecting Saint of the City Neere the stately Cathedrall Church of Saint Peter is a house called the mountame of piety where poore men may borrow money freely bringing pawnes to auoid the oppression of the lewes vsury Among the Lombard buildings there is an old Tower called d' Asinelli built of bricke with foure hundred seuenty two staires which they esteeme one of the highest in Europe From this Tower without the gates all the fields are full of Pallaces and Houses At the gate of Saint Francis is a pinacle with this inscription The Sepuicher of Accursius who wrote the glosse vpon the Law Sonne to Francis H us In the territory of this City is a medicinall water found in the yeere 1375. very famous throughout all Italy of which is prouerbially said Chibene l' Acqua della Porretta O che lo spezza o che lo netta that is He that drinkes the water of Porretta either it bursts him or els it cleanseth him The strangers students here call the stately Pallace of Cardinall Caup the sinnes of the Dutch as built by the Fines imposed on them We staid in this City two daies and being three consorts hired a chamber each man for foure bolinei the day the Hostesse giuing vs linnen and dressing our meat and we paid for an Eele by the pound fiue bolinei for they sell fresh water fish by the pound for a pike the pound foure bolinei for three apples two quatrines for a pound of raisons foure bolinei for a pound of small nuts foure bolinei for an ingestar of wine a measure somewhat bigger then the English pint foure bolinei for a wax candle six bolinei It was now the time of Lent and so we were forced to eat onely fish as the Italians did In the territory of Bologna there is a place almost an Iland called Forcelli which was an Iland of old and Historians witnesse that the Triumuiri Augustus Antonius and Lepidus here diuided the world betweene them From Bologna the right way for Rome is directly to Florence which way I neuer passed disposing as I thought my iourney more commodiously yet for the direction of other passengers it will not be amisse to set downe the way From Bologna to Pianore are eight miles to Lograno sixe to Scaricalasino fiue to Caurez three to Fiorenzuola twelue to Scarperia ten to the bridge Saint Piero two and to Fiorenza or Florente two miles At Bologna we chanced to light vpon post horses being to returne twenty miles to Imola and each of vs paid fiue poli for his horse By the way towards the South were pleasant hils towards the foot of the Apennine mountaines On the left hand towards the North were fields manured after the Lombard fashion before described and we passed by the Castle Saint Petro the Italians call the walled Townes which haue no Bishops seat by the name of Castles When we entered the gates of Imola according to the custome we deliuered our swords to a boy who was to carry them to our Host that he might keepe them till we went out of the Towne and here each of vs paied two reali for our supper and halfe a reale for our bed The next morning we rode ten miles to the City Faenza through a sandy way and a barren soyle yeelding some few vines growing vpon trees and each man paid for his horse eight poli From hence our right way to Ancona had beene to Forli Cesena and
besides he vsed it to bring the Citizens in absolute subiection The streetes are narrow and the wayes ill paued with Flint The Hauen is of a triangular forme and is now very pleasant as of old it was of great fame for a most secure Port yet it seemed not to me capable of many or great ships Perhaps it was of old fit to receiue the Roman Nauie of Gallies but since they haue neglected to preserue it Traiane the Emperour repaired this Hauen and adorned it with a stately triumphall Arke of marble which remaines to this day About this Hauen there is pleasant walking and the place where the Marchants meete called la Loggia lying vpon the sea is as sweete an open roome as euer I saw but narrow and nothing answerable for stately building to the Exchange of London It is beautified with sweete pictures among which one of an Angell which lookes right vpon you on which side soeuer you behold it is much esteemed They haue a prouerb one Peter in Rome one Tower in Cremona and one Hauen in Ancona for the excellency of them Neere the gate of the Citie to my remembrance on the East-side is a very sweete Fountaine powring water out of many heads of stone At Ancona according to the custome of passengers we agreed with a Vetturine or letter of horses that each of vs paying him fiftie fiue Poli hee should finde vs horses and horse meate and our owne diet to Rome and to this end his seruant followed vs on foote after the fashion of the Italians who ride slowly and these seruants are called Vetturini or Vetturals Now we were to crosse the bredth of Italy frō the Adriatique to the Tyrrhene Sea The first day in the Morning we rode fifteene miles to a little Citie called Madonna di Loretto through fruitfull Mountaines and passing an high Promontary By the way was an Altar with this inscription in Latin O passenger goe on merily c. Gregorie the thirteenth hath well paued the rest of the way The like inscription is in the ascent of the Mountaine vpon which the little Citie Loreto stands for this way in a fruitfull Countrey of corne and a dirty soile was paued at the charge of the said Pope A certaine chamber hath giuen beginning to this Citie and the Church thereof then which nothing is esteemed more holy among the Papists and because many gifts of great price vse to be giuen by vow to our Lady of this Church the City is well fortified against Pirats who did once spoile the same and were like againe to be inuited by the hope of rich spoiles to the like attempt if the Towne lay vnfortified It is of little circuit and lieth in length from East to the West so narrow as it hath almost but one streete in the bredth and all the houses of this streete are Innes or Shops of them that sell Beades to number prayers On the East side after a steepe descent of a Mountaine lies a valley of two miles and beyond that the sea On the North side to wards Ancons though the sea be very farre distant yet from this Citie seated vpon a high Mountaine it may easily be seene Vpon the dores of this Church famous for mens superstitious worship these verses are written Illotus tlmeat quicunque intrara Sacellum In terris nullum sanctius orbis habet Enter not here vn washt of any spot For a more holy Church the world hath not At the Church dore is a statua of brasse erected to Pope Gregorie the thirteenth As I walked about the Church behold in a darke Chappell a Priest by his Exorcismes casting a diuell out of a poore woman Good Lord what fencing and truly coniuring words he vsed How much more skilfull was he in the diuels names then any ambitious Roman euer was in the names of his Citizens whom he courted for their voices If he had eaten a bushell of salt in hell If he had been an inhabitant thereof surely this Art could neuer haue been more familiar to him He often spake to the ignorant woman in the Latin tongue but nothing lesse then in Tullies phrase and at last the poore wretch either hired to deceiue the people or if that be more probable drawne by familiar practice with the Priest or at least affrighted with his strange language and cries confessed her selfe dispossessed by his exorcisme In the body of the Church a Table of written hand in the Greeke Latin and many other tongues was fastened to a Piller setting downe at large the wonderfull historie of the Chamber in the midst of the Church which I confesse was lesse curiously obserued by me abhorring from that superstition hastening from thence as much as I might yet giue me leaue to set down the sum thereof out of the itinerary of Villamont a French Gentleman This Chamber or Chappell saith he is the very house in which the Queene Virgin of Nazaret was borne brought vp and saluted by the Angell foretelling her of Christs birth and in which Christ was conceiued and in which the Virgin dwelt after Christs ascention accompanied with the holy Apostles especially with Saint Iohn by Christs commaund which the Apostles after the Virgins death for the great mysteries done here turned into a Chappell consecrated to the sacrificing of Christ and dedicated the same and with their owne hands made the great Crosse of wood now set in the window of the Chappell and in which Saint Luke made with his hand the picture and Image now set aboue it Let mee adde This Chappell from a House became a Chamber and of a Chamber was made a Chappell and it is built of bricke and is thirtie foote long twelue and a halfe broad In the chimney as Villamont saith as yet remaine the holy ashes which no man dare take away and the Altar also vpon which the Masse is sung was made by the Apostles hand There is a roome into which you first enter which is diuided from the Chappel by an iron grate for no man enters the chappell without leaue but must say his prayers in the outter roome yet leaue is giuen to any that aske it Villamont addeth that he found by diligent search that this Chappell was much reuerenced in the primitiue Church but the holy land being subdued by Sarasens then by Turkes he faith it hapned in the yeere 1291. that this house was taken vp from the foundations by Angels who in the night miraculously carried it to the Sea shoare of Sclauonia where it was made knowne to the people by the shining of the Virgines Image and then by a vision of a religious man the Virgine her selfe made knowne the History to him He addeth the Virgins Oration wherein shee giues her selfe many titles which in later ages were first inuented and shee doth so extoll her owne praises with her owne mouth as hee that reades the old song of the blessed Virgin would cry out with the Latine Poet onely
changing the name O how is she changed from that Virgin which so modestly spake of her selfe Villamont addeth that messengers were sent into Palestina who found this History to be most true yet this Chappell did not long abide in Slauonia but the Angels in the yeere 1294. tooke it vp againe and transported it to this Sea coast of Italy where againe it was made knowne by the shining of the Image and many miracles daily done whereupon the Chappell of the Image was called Madonna di Loreto that is our Lady of Loreto And because theeues lying in the wood did spoile strangers who daily came thither for deuotion the Angels as he saith the third time tooke it vp and set it downe in a priuate possession of two brothers who disagreeing in the diuision of the profit rising by the concourse of people the Angels the fourth time tooke it vp and placed it in this firme seat where now it remaineth After it was often visited by strangers Pope Paul the second built an other stately Church ouer it Pope Leo the tenth hauing first fortified the little City against Pirates Let me adde that Pope Sixtus the fifth borne in this Marca of Ancona established a Bishop in this Towne and so made it a City Villamont relating the treasure of this Church among the rest nameth certaine Mapps of Cities and Mountaines and the Images of the twelue Apostles a great Crucifix Candlesticks and infinite Vessels of siluer Images Chalices Crosses of gold and many precious stones of huge value two Crosses made all of precious stones whereof one was giuen by the Arch-Duke of Austria and a Harte of gold set with precious stones the gift of the Duchesse of Lorayne and a vessell of huge value which the French King Henrie the third gaue with this inscription Vt quae prola tua Mandum Regina beasti Et regnum Regem prole beare velis Henri III. Franc. Pol. Reg. Christianiss M. D. LXXXIIII Additaque Regni insigdia O Queene who with thy Childe the world hast blest Let not this King and Kingdome childlesse rest Of Henry the third of France and Poland most Christian King in the yeere 1584. The Armes of the Kingdome are also set vpon it Thus farre Villamont relates He remembers no gift of greater value then this of Henrie the third yet with leaue be it spoken this King a very slaue to the Romane Church obtained not his petition All these gifts are giuen vpon vowes and my selfe did see in the outward reome of the Chappell into which all are admitted a Galley vnder all salles all of beaten gold giuen by the vow of the Duke of Florence vpon the recouery of his health Villamont adds that this Chapel is compassed with a wal of white Marble curiously engrauen but that this wall could neuer by any art bee fastned to the Chappell and that the Chappell is also compassed with twentie pillars bearing the Images often Prophers and the ten Sybills Hee adds that many miracles are heere done and first giues instance in the person of the Marques of Baden in the yeere 1584. Secondly he sets it downe for a Maxime and proues it by an example that no man euer tooke any thing out of this Church without great mischiefe betalling him and that the robbers thereof are compelled to restore as it were by infernall furies Let me say truly alwaies reseruing due reuerence to the blessed Virgin to whom the Scriptures teach such diuine worship to be most vnpleasing as the Papists yeeld her I say let me with due reuerence tell a truth My selfe and two Dutch-men my consorts abhorring from this superstition by leaue entred the inner Chappell where we did see the Virgins picture adorned with pretious Iewels and the place to increase religious horror being darke yet the Iewels shined by the light of wax candles When we were entred the Priest courteously left vs to giue vs space for our deuotion but when we came forth as the Italians prouerbially speake of the Priests auarice Euery Psalme ends in Glory be c. as if they should say All religion to end in profit it was necessarie for vs to cast almes into an iron chest behind the Altar couered with an iron grate Therefore my consorts of purpose to delight the Priests eares with the sound of money as with musicke did cast into that chest many brasse quatrines but of small value and my selfe being last when my turne was to giue almes did in stead thereof gather some tenne quatirnes of theirs which lay scattered vpon the grate and got that cleare gaine by that Idoll God forbid I should bragge of any contempt to Religion but since it appeares that such worship is vnpleasing to God and because Papists will haue all their miracles beleeued I will freely say by experience that hauing gotten these few quatirnes in such sort as I said yet after that God of his mercy preserued me in my long and dangerous trauell and from that time to this day by his grace I haue enioyed though no abundant yet a competent estate and more plentifull then in my former dayes The fourth miracle related by Villamont for I omit the third is worth al the rest which he saith hangs vp in this Church written in the Italian tongue and also printed namely that a French woman possessed with a diuel came hither and being exorcised by a holy Canon did answer that she had seuen deuils and he casting them out that the first called Sordo at his comming forth blew out a torch and that the second was called Heroth the third Venteloth the fourth Arcto And while hee makes them all without torture or commaund to confesse their own wicted acts and while he omitteth the other three yet he doth not omit that the fourth told the Priest things vnknowne to the world namely that he shewed him the stone vpon which the Angell stood when hee saluted the Virgin and likewise the place where the Virgin at that time stood and that those places were afterward no lesse worshipped then the Chappell it selfe This Villamont relates Of these things reuealed by the diuell giue me leaue to say that if the diuell had been the greatest friend the Church of Rome hath he could not haue told a more profitable thing to it and that the Roman Church is not altogether vngratefull which beleeues the father of lies in so great a matter and doth not so much as put him to his oath but they are wise to be of Ouids opinion Cur ego non votis blandiar ipsemeis Why should I not flatter my owne desires I will ende the rest in one word There is incredible concourse to this place from all parts professing the Roman Religion neither is any man in the most remote parts of Europe oppressed with any calamity but hee vowes some gift to this Image In this Church I did see fiftie banished men vulgarly called Banditi who were banished for murthers and
such like crimes and now had their pardon vpon condition that for some yeeres they should serue the Emperour in Hungarie against the Turks These men abhorred in all Italy yet no doubt at this time very deuout did make stiffe vows to expiat their sinnes and to haue happie returne out of Hungarie yet they held their hands from giuing any large almes My selfe and my consorts were all this day fasting for it had been an vnperdonable sinne to haue demaunded meate in our Inne before wee had been in the Church and would haue giuen open occasion to suspect our Religion At last when wee returned to the Inne our Vetturine gaue vs our dinner The same day after a slight dinner we rode foureteene miles vpon a causey paued with stone and winding about a mountaine then through fields abounding with Oliue trees but hauing no vines and we came to the City Macerata where the Popes Legate lies and keepes his chancery for this Marca of Ancona Part of this Prouince yeelds rich wine whereof they haue onely white wine in the Innes The second day in the morning we rode twenty two miles to Poluertna through a pleasant way and fruitfull fields yeelding corne and oliues And by the way neere the City Tollentine were the confines of the Marca of Ancona and of the Dukedome of Spoleto After dinner we rode ten miles to the Castle Sereuallo through stony and barren mountaines The third day in the morning we rode sixteene miles to Fuligni through most stony and barren mountaines which are called Apennine and diuide the length of Italy and through a large plaine planted with oliue trees and compassed about with mountaines This City was built vpon the ruines of the City Forum Flaminium After dinner we rode ten miles to the City Spoleto through a firtle plaine but stony yeelding together in the same field vines corne Almond and Oliue trees and at the end of the plaine this City is seated partly in a plaine partly on the side of a mountaine vpon the top whereof is a strong Castle built vpon the ruines of an old Amphitheater to the which men passe ouer a bridge of stone vpheld by twentyfour great pillars ioyning two mountaines which haue a deepe valley between them but narrow and without water In the Church of this Castle they shew a picture of the blessed Virgin painted with Saint Lukes hand of which kind there is an infinit number among the Papists Theodoricus King of the Gothes built a stately Pallace in the City which being ruined Narses the Eunuch Gouernour of Italy vnder the Easterne Emperour did rebuild it The Dukedome of Spoleto is subiect to the Pope who tooke it when he cast the Easterne Emperours out of Italy and after extorted the grant thereof from the renewed Westerne Emperours And the soile of this Dukedome is most fruitfull of corne wine almond and oliue trees and of most sweet fruits Of the wine Martiall thus writes De Spoletanis quae funt curiosa lagenis Malueris quam si musta Falerna hib as If with Spoleto bottels once you meet Say that Falerno must is not so sweet The fourth day in the morning wee rode ten mils through stony and most barren mountaines and fiue miles through a fertile plaine wherein grew together corne vines and oliue trees which trees I obserued alwaies to grow in stony ground which soyle in Italy vseth to be more firtile then other and seuen miles through a more firtile plaine in the end whereof is the City Narni whose situation is altogether like that of Spoleto The Italians told me that the soyle of this territory is made dirty with the sunne and wind and dusty with raine which since I haue found confirmed by learned Cosmographers On the South-side of Narni the Riuer Negra fals with great noise from a steepe Rocke and the Friar Leandro who hath best discribed Italy affirmes that the Riuer Velino makes a Fen which Cicero numbers among wonderful things and that this Fen endeth in a Lake of old called Veanus now vulgarly called Lago di pie di luco and that betweene the running out of the waters there is a Fountaine of Neptune which Pliny hath described and that this Lake is the Nauell of midst of Italy and lastly that the water falling into the Lake compassed with mountaines by steepe discents maketh noises like the groanes yellings and sighes of infernall spirits From whence and by other arguments he seemes to proue plainely that the verses of Virgill in the seuenth Booke of his AEneados are meant of this place and that others are deceiued who thinke them meant by Tenaso in Apulia especially since the vallies Ansancti are in this place vulgarly called Nesanto for Ansanto which signifies on all sides holy because they are fertile The verses of Virgil are these Est locus Italiae in medio sub montibus altis Nobilis fama multis memoratur in oris Ansancti valles c. Hic specus horrendum saeui spiracula Ditis Monstrantur c. Italtes Center hath great Mounts beneath A noble place which is farre knowne by fame The Ansancti valleyes c. A dreadfull hole whereat fierce Dis doth breath Here may be seene c. After dinner we rode twelue miles to a little Towne lying beyond the Riuer Tyber namely eight miles to the Castle Otricoli through woody Mountaines and Valyes bearing Oliue trees and corne together with those trees and from thence to the side of the Riuer Tyber two miles in pasture fieldes Here we passed to the West side of this so famous Riuer where of old the Emperour Augustus built a stately bridge but now men and horse passe in a ferry-boate which is drawne ouer with the force of mens hands by a great cable fastned a-crosse the Riuer And least the boate should be carried away with the swift streame a second cable is fastned a-crosse the Riuer by postes on each side higher then a man and they haue a third short cable to the one end whereof the boate is fastened and the other end hath a strong wheele which is put vpon the second high cable vpon which the boat slips forward as it is drawne with mens hands by the first low cable for the bed of the Tyber is broade in this place and hath his spring not far off among the high Apenine Mountains and falling thence with great force would carry away any boat rowed with oares But from thence the bed of the Riuer grows narrow and is such at Rome as it scarce deserues the name of a Brooke and nothing answeres the glorious fame which Italians haue giuen it who alwaies extoll their owne things to the skie Hereupon it is necessarie that when any store of raine falls or much snow suddenly meltes those waters falling from the Mountaines should ouerflow the fields and the Citie of Rome it selfe as they haue often done with great danger of the Citie the same being not farre distant from this Ferrey and
these high Mountaines among which the riuer hath his spring But from Rome it runs in a narrow bed 2 miles to Ostia with a slow course and there endeth in Lakes the mouth of the hauen being so stopped as the least Barks cannot passe to from the sea Here beyond our expectatiō our Veturine alleaged that he had agreed with vs to pay for our diet not for our passages of Riuers by which captious trick each of vs was forced to pay two Giulij for our passage ouer the Riuer Of the foresaid twelue miles to the little towne where of I spake two miles remained which we rode and there lodged that might The fifth day in the morning wee rode seuenteene miles to Castel ' nuouo through woody Mountaines and Valies of corne in a way very dirty and slippery and here our Veturine tied to pay for our diet put a new tricke vpon vs saying that he would not dine but goe on to Rome yet if wee pleased to dine hee would out of his duty stay for vs otherwise being ready to finish the rest of his iourney We smiled at the knaues craft and each of vs paied two poli and a halfe for our dinners After dinner we rode thirteene miles to Rome of old the Head-Citie of the World through winding hills and pastures and when we came to the first Gate we did meete many English men on horse-back without bootes being all Priests going to Madonna di Loreto I was much afraid lest some of them being Schollers of Cambridge should know me brought vp in the same Vniuersitie neither was the hearing of the English tongue or the sight of English men euer before so vnpleasing to me From this first Gate we rode in the way of Flaminius by the winding banck of Tyber and many caues vnder mountaines and hills to the bridge called Ponte-Mole which vniteth the said way of Flaminius lying on both sides the Riuer and there wee passed to the East-side of the said Riuer Tyber and passing on the same way of Flaminius we entered the Citie by a large Gate vulgarly called Porta del Popolo and by a Market place vulgarly called Fore del Popolo in which Market-place is the Church of S. Mary del Popolo CHAP. II. Of my iourney to Naples and my returne to Rome and of the description of both Cities Of my iourney cursory to Sienna Fiorenza Pistoia Lucca and Pisa and the description of the three last Cities DEferring the view of Rome till my returne I thought best to passe on presently to Naples lest if I had staid longer I might perhaps haue beene betraied into the hands of the Spaniards when I should come thither for that Kingdome is subiect to the Spaniards with whom the English then had warre besides that in like cases delay brecds danger into which if I should haue fallen I hoped to escape with more ease and contentment when I had beene at the furthest of my iourney Therefore according to the fashion I agreed with a Vetturine at Rome for forty foure Giulij to giue me a horse to Naples and to pay for my diet and horsemeat I say it is the fashion especially in waies of danger and trouble to get meat that passengers should agree with their Vetturine for their diet which if they doe not they shall be subiect to the fraud of Hosts in such a iourney and hardly get so good meat as they who daily passing are well acquainted in all places And in this tumultuary iourney to Naples it is most of all necessary for strangers thus to agree with their Vetturine since the Hosts are great extorters from all men and especially from strangers and it would be difficult for strangers not knowing the fashion of that hasty iourney and of the Country to prouide for themselues When we went out of Rome our consorts suddenly in a broad street lighted from their horses and gaue them to the Vetturines to hold and so went themselues to the Holy staires vulgarly called Le scale sante that they might there pray for a happy iourney at which time my selfe and my consorts slipped into the next Church and going in at one doore and out at the other escaped the worshipping of those holy staires and at fit time came to take our horses with the rest They say that these staires were the same which Christ ascended in Pilates house at Ierusalem and that they were from thence brought to Rome and indeed at Ierusalem the place of them lies void so as I would in this mnch rather beleeue the Romans then in the transportation of the Chamber at Lareto which they would haue done by the Angels and that often and at vnseasonable times whereas in so many voyages into Palestine it was not difficult to bring these staires from thence Yet they being of marble and very rich I would faine know how such a monument could be preserued when Ierusalem was destroied And if they say they belonged to that house of Pilate which they shew at this day I dare be bold to affirme that the magnificence of these staires is nothing answerable to the poore building of that house The twelfth of March we rode twelue miles to Marino a Castle belonging to the Roman Family of Colonna and we passed through a fruitfull plaine of corne hauing on our right hand towards the South the ruines of old Rome and the Castle Tusculo where Cicero wrote his Tuseulane questions not farre from Palestrina of old called Preneste where Marius besieged by Scylla killed himself we might often see the Tyrrhene sea and hauing vpon our left hand towards the North an anticke conduit made of bricke lying all the length of the way from Rome to the Easterne mountaines in which Marino is seated and from whence the water was so farre brought to Rome and vpon the same side hauing a new conduit built by Pope Sixtus the fifth when the pipes of the other were broken but the same is much lower and lesse magnificent then the other and vpon this hand we had mountaines not farre distant Marino was of old called Marianavilla and from this Castle the mountaines which by the way we had on our left hand toward the North crosse ouer to the Tyrrhene sea towards the South shutting vp the large plaine from Rome hither And these mountaines planted with vines and hauing a sweet prospect into the same plaine are very pleasant Whereupon there be very many Pallaces of Roman Senators built vpon these mountaines which lying high of the fresh aire vulgarly this place is called La Frescada Among these mountaines in the Village Tiuoli the deceased Cardinall Hipolito of Este built a Pallace and a wonderfull garden which being ten mile distant from the City of Rome the passengers for the most part hauing scene Rome did in the Cardinals time and yet many times doe passe that way For it resembles a terrestriall Paradice by reason of the fountaines statuaes caues groues fishponds cages
at our comming backe these Souldiers demaunded of the passengers a gift in curtesie and when some refused it they stopped their passage and onely troubled them in the searching of their carriage vnder pretence that they might carry some prohibited things Those Souldiers did accompany vs to the Citie Fondi I call the same and some other places by the name of Citie because they were Cities of old though now they be onely Villages and haue no other beautie but the ruines of age This old Citie was sacked in the yeere 1534 by Barbarossa a Turkish Pirate It is seated in a Plaine hauing onely a meadow and a field ouerflowed betweene it and the sea and the houses are built of Flints and such litle stones but it had most pleasant Orchards of Citrons Oranges and Lemons The Orange trees at one time haue ripe and greene fruites and buds and are greene in winter giuing at that dead time a pleasant remembrance of Sommer By our Veturines sparing our diet was daily very short and at Terracina we could not so much as get wine and here our supper was so short as we iudged our Vetturines good Phisitians who perswade light suppers The wines of Fondi and Cecubo for the mount Cecubo is not farre distant are much celebrated by the Roman Poets namely by Horace The fourth day in the morning we rode ten miles to Mola vulgarly called Nola vpon a paued Causey betweene stony Mountaines being part of the way of Appius and through great woods of Oliue trees hauing by the way many Orchards of Oranges and like fruites and entering neere Mola into a more open aire Not onely this Village but all this sea coast is called Mola of the Miles as I thinke driuen by waters falling from the Mountaines and it is numbred among the most pleasant places of Italy Mola is built vpon the ruines of old Formia which are to be seene in the fields round about it Among these ruines is the house of Cicero who speakes of his Village Formia where Scipio and Lelius came to recreate themselues and there is also the sepulcher of Cicero so as it seemes he was killed by Anthony in this Territory After dinner we rode eight miles through a wilde field with low shrubs vpon a paued way till wee came to the Riuer Garigliano whose narrow and deepe streame we passed by boat and staied long about the putting ouer of our horses our company being great and each horseman paied fiue baocci for passage Neere this Riuer wee did see the ruines of a most faire Theater built of bricke and flint and of another old and round Theater and of a Conduit built of brick vpon a 140 arches Not farre hence among huge and snowy Mountaines is the Citie Traeto which hath the title of a Dukedome and was of old called Minturne After we had passed the Riuer we rode seuen miles to Sesso and three miles to a Country house through a fruitful Plaine of corne hauing the Tirrhene sea so neare vs as we might see it three or foure times And because the other Carrier comming from Naples to Rome lodged with his consorts a mile before vs in the Village Castellano we were forced to lodge in this Country house The fifth day in the morning at the beginning of our iourney we met the said Carrier with his consorts and we rode eight miles to the Village Francolisse in a most pleasant way betweene Hills of black clay like stone but a most fruitfull Countrey This Village lay on the left hand of our way towards the land among very pleasant Hills and the place is not farre distant where Hanibal brought into straights by Fabius did escape by a stratagem tying fire vpon the hornes of Oxen. After we rode 8 miles to the most pleasant City Capua through a most sweet Plaine called Laborina because it is laborious to the tiller but it is wonderfull fruitfull and aboundeth with Oliue trees and vines planted vpon Elmes Here we dined not according to our couenant at our Vetturines charge but at our owne cost and each man had such meate as he chose and that as I thinke because the passengers being now out of danger and in a place abounding with all dainties refused to be dieted at their Veturines pleasure and chose rather to feast themselues as they list And in deede we had excellent cheare delicate wine most white pure bread and among other dainties I remember wee had blacke Oliues which I had neuer seene before and they were of a most pleasant taste Here each of vs paid two Giulij and a halfe for our dinner This City is newly built but if you goe out of the Gates to Saint Maries Church towards Naples vpon the South-West side of the Towne there you shall see a Colossus and a Caue and many Monuments of old Capua among the Orchards the delicacies of which Citie were of old so famous as we reade that the Army of Hanibal grew effeminate thereby This new Citie hath a Castle vpon the North-East side built vpon the walles wherein is a Garrison of souldiers which keepeth the Citie in obedience and the Riuer Vulturnus runnes vpon the same side of the Citie which they passe with a bridge of stone neere which there is an inscription that Phillip King of Spaine repaired the way and built the bridge The Citie is of a little compasse but strong and it hath a faire Senate-House and a faire Church called l' Annonciata with a faire Altar After dinner wee had no guard neither were tied to accompany the Carrier but it was free for euery man to take his way and company or to ride alone at his pleasure So from Capua we rode eight miles to Anuersa a new Citie otherwise called Aduersa and of old called Attella whence were the old satyricall Comedies which were full of baudery and were called Attellane And betweene this City and the Mountaine Vesuuius now called Somma out of the way towards the land and neere the Castle Airola is the Valley Caudine where Hanibal put the Romans drawne into straites disgracefully to passe vnder a paire of gallowes which were called the Caudine gallows wel knowne to all that haue read Liuy The same afternoone we rode further eight miles to Naples And all this way from Capua to Naples is a most fruitfull plaine of corne and vines growing high vpon Elme trees according to the Tillage of Lombardy one and the same field yeelding corne and wine and wood to burne but the other wines of this Country growing vpon hills and mountaines and all the other fruites cannot be worthily praised We entered Naples on the East side by the Gate of Capua where the Vice-Ròies vse to enter in pompe And this Gate is stately built and vpon this side the suburbes are long and faire and the streete of Capua within the wals is no lesse faire in which is the prison and because we were attired like Frenchmen the prisoners
scoffed at vs and to my great maruell the Citizens of good sort did not forbeare this barbarous vsage towards vs. The description of Naples and the Territory A Rome farre distant B Capua D Torre di Graco and the Mountaine Somma E The Mountaine Pausilippo F The Iland Nisita or Nisa G The Iland Procida H S. Martino as I thinke an Iland I Ischia an Iland K Caprca or Capre an Iland L Palmosa an Iland and beyond it the Syrenes Iland famous by tables M The Citie Caieta N Circello a famous Mountaine for the Witch Circe P The Bay of Baie or Pozzoli R Linternum now called Torre della Patria X The Promontory Miseno Y The Cape of Minerua Z The old Citie Cuma a The Gate of Capua b The Kings Gate c The Church S. Clara. d The Castle of S. Ermo eéeee Scattered houses f The Hauen g Il. Molle h The Castle deuouo k The Vice-Royes house l The new Castle m The Lake d'Agnano compassed with the Mountaine Astruno n Grotta del can ' o Solfataria p Pozzoii q Tripergola r The Lake of Auernus s Baie t Cento Camerelle v Piscina mirabile w The Elisian fields From the foresaid part on the East-side of the Citie where we entred by the a Gate of a Capua without the walls towards the land Eight miles frō the Citie lies D Torre di Graco now called Torre d'ottauio where Pliny writer of the Naturall history and Admirall of the Nauey of Augustus was neere the said sower choked with vapours while too curiously he desired to behold the burning of the Mountaine Vesunius now called Somma This Mountaine Somma is most high and vpon the top is dreadfull where is a gulfe casting out flames and while the windes inclosed seeke to breake out by naturall force there haue been heard horrible noises and fearefull groanes Therest of the Mountaine aboundeth with vines and Oliues and there growes the Greckewine which Pliny calles Pompeies wine and of this wine they say this place is called Torredi Graco The greatest burning of this Mountaine brake out in the time of the Emperour Titus the smoke whereof made the Sunne darke burnt vp the next territories and consumed two Cities Pompeia and Herculea and the ashes thereof couered all the fields of that territory It brake out againe in the yeere 1538 with great gaprig of the earth and casting downe part of the Mountaine The Pallace there taking the name of the next Village is called Pietra Biancha that is white stone which on the inside is all of marble decked with carued worke in the very Chambers and there is an Image of a Nymphe sleeping and lying vpon an earthen vessell out of which great quantity of water flowes and falls into Marble Channels wherein fish are kept as in pondes This Pallace was built in the yeere 1530 by a Counseller to the Emperour Charles the fifth At the foote of this Mountaine of old Decius the first of all the Roman Consuls did by vow giue himselfe for the Army And at the bridge of the Brooke Draco the last King of the Gothes Teius was slaine hauing three Bucklers all pierced with his enemies arrowes On the same East side comming backe to Naples yet the saide Mountaine lyes Northward you shall come to a stately Pallace which the Kings of Naples haue built and called it Poggio Reale being not aboue a mile from Naples There of old was seated the Citie Paleopolis and it lies in a most sweete Plaine From the said Pallace the way leades right to the Kingly b Gate called Porta Reale at which onely the King enters in solemne pompe and from this Gate right to the West lies a most faire and large streete called Strada Toletana the way whereof on both sides is raised with a faire and large pauement for men to walk vpon and it hath a faire Market-place When you come to the end of this streete there is the Church of Saint c Clara called vulgarly San ' chiara which was built by Agnes of Spaine wife to King Robert where are artificiall sepulchers of the said Robert comming of the French Kings and of his wife Agnes and of other Kings and Princes of the French family Durczzana And there in a Chappell the Monkes day and night sing with a lamentable voice or rather groane for the rest of their deceased soules In the Church of Saint Dominick is an Altar which they say cost some twenty fiue thousand Crownes and in the Vesterie lie the bodies of nine Kings in coffins of wood couered with peuter hauing black veluet laied ouer them Among these Kings are Alphonso the first King of Aragon and Ferdinand his sonne and Ferdinand the second And in this place also the Monkes in like sort sing or rather houle rest to their soules They shew a Crucifix which they say did speake to Thomas Aquinas in this manner Thomas thou hast written well of me what reward doest them aske And that Thomas should answere No reward Lordbut thy selfe onely I haue heard that Saint Bernard knowing the fraudes and impostures of the Monkes and not dissembling them when the Image of the blessed Virgin did in like sort praise him did with much more pietie and wisdome answere out of S. Paul 1. Cor. 14. Let women be silent in the Church for it is not permitted them to speake Not farre thence are the publike schooles of the Vniuersity which the Emperour Fredericke the second founded there In the most faire Church of the Monkes of Saint Oliuet the Images of Ferdinand the first and Alphonso the second are so liuely engrauen and doe so artificially represent them as well in the bed dying as vpon their knees praying with the mourning of the by-standers the horror of Religion being increased with lampes continually burning as my selfe by chance passing by this Chappell thought I had fallen among liuing Princes not dead Images and perhaps I haue seene a more sumptuous monument but a more beautifull did I neuer see In the little Church of the Hermitane Friers Saint Iohn in Carbonara is a monument of Robert King of Naples and of Ioane the first his sister of white marble being an Altar which the Italians thinke the most stately monumenr of Europe but for my part I dare not preferre it to some in Germany nor to many in England nor to the monuments of the Turkish Emperours Many tables are hung vp by vow in this Church There is a faire sepulcher of white marble erected to N. Caraccioli Marshall of the Kingdome I omit the most faire Church of Saint Mary of the Preachers almost all of marble and the Cathedrall Church called Episcopio and the Church of Saint Laurence Vpon the North-west and by-north part of the City is the Fort called d S. Eremo cut out in a high Rocke yet the ascent thereunto is so easie as a horse-man may well mount to the top Vpon this mountaines top lies a plaine in which this Castle is seated which commands
our would not moue for any blowes wee gaue it then according to the fashion wee cast the dog into the aforesaid Lake and when he was drawne out he began by little and little to moue and at last being come to his senses ranne away as if he had been madde The common sort attribute this to the blessing giuen to the water by the Saint of which it is named but nothing is more cleere then that the sprinkling of any water will reuiue the spirits choked with any ill vapour Besides many haue tried that liuing things cast into that caue and held there for longer time then is vsuall could neuer be fetched againe to life by this or any other water They report that a French Gentleman of Tournan trying to fetch a stone out of this caue beyond the aforesaid signe paied for his curiosity by vnrecouerable death And that the French King Charles the eight commanding an Asse to be thrust into this caue the beast could neuer be fetched to life againe And that don Iohn base sonne of the Emperour Charles the fifth forced a Gally-slaue to goe into this caue and he falling dead forced another slaue to fetch him out who likewise fell dead and that hee killed the third slaue with his owne hand because hee refused to fetch out his two dead fellowes Many cast frogs into this caue and except they presently leape back this vapour kills them which is said to rise out of Mines of Brimstone and other mettals Into the foresaid Lake they cast flax which will be sleeped in that water in 14 houres though it lies vsually two weekes in other waters And this water though cold to touch yet seemes to boile The Earthquakes and flames breaking out of these Mountaines by the vapours inclosed gaue the Poets occasion to faine that Giants were buried vnder them Not farre hence are the wholesome baths vulgarly called I bagni d'Agnano which kind of baths are very frequent in this part Heere lie the ruines of a great Village of Lucullus and Writers affirme that hee brought the Sea water into the foresaid Lake cutting the passage through Mountaines Here also are the ruines of the Village of Cicero which retaine the old name and the Emperour Adrian dying at Bait was buried here and his successor Anthony here built a Temple to him Vpon the top of a Mountaine neere this place is a round field like a Market-place vulgarly called o Solfataria which Strabo cals Forum vulcani Pliny writes that of old this place was called Campi Flecrci It is of an Ouall forme somewhat more long then broad hauing 1500 foote in length and 1000 in breadth being compassed on all sides with Mountaines except the enterance lying towards Pozzoli All the earth is hollow and being beaten with a mans foote soundeth like an emptie vessell and not only the earth by the Brimstone is made yellow but it made our bootes and shooes of the same colour with walking vpon it yea when I cast a piece of siluer vpon the ground it was presently made yellow and with no rubbing could be made white againe In this Ouall Market place as I may call it there is a short and narrow ditch of water which is almost round and the water thereof boyles as if fire were vnder it They say if any thing be cast into it that it will be sodden in short space but some part of it will be consumed and Leander reports that one cast foure egges into it and presently tooke three fully sodden but the fourth was consumed Also he witnesseth that this little ditch is not alwaies in one place but in time workes it selfe from one place to another in this circuite and yet is neuer greater and that the old ditch is filled presently with new matter An horseman cannot well come to this place and as the same Leander writes an horse man comming boldly thither was swallowed vp into the hollow earth And that the strange heate of this water may appeare one of the Viceroyes Guard a Duchman and comming hither according to their fashion to guide his Countrey men my consorts told vs that one of his fellowes not long before comming in like sort as hee did to guide his Countrimen hither either being carelesse or rather as it is most probable hauing drunke too much and not guiding his feete well by chance stumbled into this ditch and when one of his friends tooke him by the hand to pull him out that he pulled of all the skinne from his hand and that after better aduice they pulled him out with a cloake flung about him but that within few daies he died neither could the Phisitians giue him any remedy or promise any hope of his life At the foote of the Mountaine there is a hole where the vapours with their owne motion continually cast vp little stones and stinking smelles but if any man moue these vapours by a staffe or any thing put into the hole the more they are stirred the greater stones they cast vp yea flames of fire sometimes There bee some cottages neere this place where they make Brimstone and all these parts smell of brimstone and if the winde blow from hence towards Naples the stinke thereof may bee smelled thither On all sides here be Baths of wholesome waters which of old were famous After we had passed huge ruines of old buildings we came at the foot of a mountaine to the City p Pozzoli of old famous and called Puteolis to which all these ruines are said to haue belonged of old and it had the name of the Latin word Puteus as also it hath the present name from the Italian tong of the wels which are frequent I say it hath the present name of the Italian word Pozzo signifying a well though some will haue it named presently of Puzzo which signifies a stink because of the smell of brimstone in these parts but the city being most ancient cannot haue the old name of an Italian word and it is certaine that the Roman Princes of old vsed this part for the place of their recreation for the great sweetnes of the Country and the plenty of medicinall waters whereupon they gaue it the first name Others say that it was of old called Diciarchiam but at this day it is called Pozzoli or Puzzoli Here we dined and were forced to giue our swords to the Host there being a great penalty set vpon any that carry their Armes The City hath nothing worth the seeing but the old Church first built to Heathen Idols and after by Christians dedicated to Saint Proculus and it hath the names of the workemen that built it grauen vpon it and there be shewed the bones of a Giant of wonderfull bignes The Hauen of this City was of old very commodious but by negligence is growne of no vse Here the sea entring betweene two Mountaines was of old called the Creeke of P Baie of that Citie seated on the opposite shore or
the Iland of Tyber this compasse may truly be called Rome as at this day it is inhabited for the rest lies wilde hauing only ruines and some scattered Churches and houses and towards the South fieldes of corne within the walles They say that Romulus did onely build vpon three Mountaines the Palatine the Capitoline and the Celian yet others adde the Esquiline and that he compassed them with walles and that he built the Gate Carmentalis so called of the mother of Euander which lies vnder the Capitoll vpon the right hand betweene the rock Tarpeius and the Riuer Tiber and was also called the cursed Gate of the 300 Fabij which went out of the same to fight and were all killed in one day And that he built the Roman Gate lying neere the Mount Pallatine towards the Amphitheater called Obelisco and the Gate Pandana so called because it was alwaies open After seuen Mountaines being inclosed Rome had eight Gates and after thirtie foure as Liuy writes and at last thirtie seuen Gates At this day the first Gate is called IIII delpopolo lying on the East-side of Tiber towards the North which of the Riuer was of old called Flumentana and of the way of Flaminius to which it did leade was called Flaminia The second Gate is called V Pinciana of a Senator of that name and of old was called Collatina of a Pallace adioyning and it is a mile distant from the former Gate The third Gate is called VI la Salarta of salt brought in that way and was of old called Quirinalis of the Temple or the Mountaine adioyning of the same name and also called Agona of a Mountaine or as hauing no corner and also called Collina of a Hill and it is lesse then a mile distant from the last named Gate The fourth Gate is called VII la Pia of Pope Pius the fourth who repaired it and the way without it and it is more then halfe a mile distant from the last named Gate At this day it is many times called Saint Agnese of a Church lying neere it And it was of old called Viminalis of Oseyres growing there and also called Figulensis of Potters dwelling there and also called of old Numentina of a Castle I will omit the Gate of old called Inter Aggeres because almost no ruines therof remaine at this day The fifth Gate is called VIII di S. Lorenzo of the Church neere it It was of old called Tiburtina though others think that Gate was neerer to Tyber on this side and Esquilina of a place neere it and Taurina of a bulles head which still is grauen vpon it and it is a mile and a halfe distant from the last named Gate The sixth Gate is called IX Maggiore and was of old called Neuia and Labicana and Praenestina The seuenth is called X dt S. Giouanni and it was of old called Caelemontana of a Mountaine and Quercotulana of an Oake and Settimia and Asinaria The eighth is called XI Latina of Latium to which it leades and was of old called Firentina and is more then a mile distant from the seuenth Gate The ninth from the eighth more then halfe a mile distant is called XII di S. Sebastiano of the Church to which it leades and was of old called Capena of the Citie or Riuer of that name and also Camena of a Church and Appia of the way which Appius the Censor paued and Fontinale of the Fountaines and some write it was called Trionfale for part of the Triumphes that did enter there And the brother of the Horatij escaping in the fight against the brothers Curiatij did returne at this Gate without the same is the Sepulcher of Scipio the Africane whereof I spake describing Linternum neere Naples where he would be buried farre from his vngratefull Countrey The tenth Gate is called XIII di S. Paolo of the Church whither it leades and was of old called Trigemina of the 3 Horatij going out there and called Ostiensis as leading to Ostia where Tyber runs into the Sea and it is a mile from the 〈◊〉 Gate and as much distant from the Riuer Tyber The eleuenth Gate lies on the West side of Tyber in that part of the Citie which I said is called II Trasteuere and is distant from Tyber halfe a quarter of a mile being called XIIII di ripa and was of old called Portuensis as leading to the Hauen of Rome made by the Emperour Claudius The twelfth Gate almost a mile distant from the former is called XV di S. Pancratio and of old was called Aurelia of Aurelius the Emperor or of the way Aurelia and of others called Pancratiana and it lieth neere the Mountaine Ianiculo The thirteenth Gate halfe a mile distant from the former is called XVI Settimiana of the Emperour Settimius whose name is engrauen vpon it it was repaired by Pope Alexander the sixth Some think this Gate was called Fontinale others Festinale and it is the last Gate in Trasieuere The fourteenth Gate is called XVII di S. Spirito and it is the first in that part of the Citie called I Borgo The fifteenth gate is called in the map XVIII Fornacum but I find it called by Writers del Torrione and Posterula and to be repaired by Pope Nicholas the fifth The sixtenth Gate is called XIX la Portusa being neete to the Popes stables The seuententh is called XX di Beluedere lying neere the Popes Pallace and 3 Garden and it is called in some Mapps Angelica and by others Giulia of the Pope Giulius The eightenth is called XXI di S. Angelo and delCastello of the Castle S. Angelo and it was of old called Enea and more lately di Cenello I passe ouer the Gate called of old la Trionfante where the greatest triumphs did enter because no ruines remaine thereof but onely it is said to haue bin seated neere the Triumphall Bridge XXXVI It remaines to speake of the waies leading to Rome which I will note with the letters of the Gates leading to them And first I will onely name the wayes that are within the walles The first la Suburra begins at the Amphitheater called Coliseo 20 and leades to the Church Saint Lucia in Orsia The second la Sacra lies from the Arch of Constantine 21 to the Arch of Vespasian 22 through Forum Romanum 23 to the Capitol XXII The third la Nuoua did leade from the greater Pallace in Mount Palatine XXIII to the Bath of Antonius in Mount Auentine XXIIII The fourth la Trionfale did leade from the Mount Vaticano XXIX to the Capitol in the Mount XXII Capitolino The fifth la via retta was in the Campius Martius where is la colonna di Traiano 10 The Frier Leander describing Rome nameth twentie nine waies within and without the walles namely 1. Appia 2. Latina 3. Labicana 4. Campana 5. Praenestina 6. Cumana 7. Flaminia 8. Cassia 9. Tiburtina 10. Collatina 11. Nomentana 12. Salaria 13. Emilia 14. Portuesen 15. Cornelia 16. Claudia 17. Valeria 18. Ostiensis 19. Laurentina
and there were no Magistrates for foure yeeres At last Iulius Caesar with the title of perpetuall Dictator inuaded the Empire which being after diuided into the Orientall and Occidentall Empire and the Occidentall being destroied by the incursions of barberous Nations the Bishops of Rome by little and little cast their Orientall Lords out of Italy and erected a new Occidentall Empire in France that they might inuade the power of the Roman Emperors and of the heauenly iurisdiction vpon earth vnder pretext of Religion by a new monster of a Roman wit drawne from the supremacy of the Apostle Saint Peter Pliny in his time makes the circuit of Rome twenty miles and Vopiscus in the time of the Emperour Aurelius makes the circuit fifty miles but he ioyned to Rome all the neighbour villages At this day if you adde to Rome the two parts beyond Tyber called Trasteuere and Borgo the circuit at the most is fifteene miles for others say thirteene or fourteene besides that a very great part of this circuit within the walles is not inhabited and the walles not withstanding lie not vpon their old foundations neither are built of that matter but as it pleased those who repaired them Among which Belisarius gouernour of Italy vnder the Emperour Iustinian built Rome demolished by the Gothes and made the circuit of the walles lesse and Pope Adrian the first a Roman the wals being fallen built them as now they stand and many of his successours haue since added new ornaments to decaied Rome But the old wals as appeares by some ruines were built of foure square stone the rest are of diuers building as it pleased the repairers and haue a bricke gallery to walke vpon vnder which men may stand dry when it raines and they being ready to fal with age haue many round Towers which in like sort are ready to fall Rome at this day is troubled with the old ouerflowings of Tyber by reason of the Tybers narrow bed not able to receiue the waters falling suddenly from neere mountaines after great raine or melting of snow For memory whereof these inscriptions are vpon the wals of the Church of Saint Mary sopra Minerua In the yeere 1530. if I be not deceiued for the first words are raced out the Ides of October Clement the seuenth being Pope Huc Tyber ascendit iamque obruta totafuisset Roma nisi celerem virgo tulisset opem Thus farre came Tyber and all Rome had drown'd Had we not from the Virgin swift helpe found And there in another place this verse is written in the yeere MVD. Extulit huc tumidas turbidus Amnis aquas Thus farre this muddy brookes water did swell In each place is a red marke vpon the wals how high the water ascended by which it appeares marking the seat of the Church that all the plaine was ouerflowed betweene it and the Tyber By reason of these flouds and for that the City is built vpon the caues of old Rome which makes the foundations to be laid with great charge and also by reason of the vapours rising from the Baths the aire of Rome is at this day vnwholsome The Romans drinke raine water and the troubled waters of Tyber kept in Cesternes and they bragge that it is proper to the water or Tyber the longer it is kept to grow more pure Surely strangers doe not like that water howsoeuer the Romans making a vertue of necessity doe say that it was onely made good to drinke at Rome and no where els by the blessing of Pope Gregory the Great Now being to describe the antiquities of Rome I will first set downe out of order the seuen Churches famous for the indulgences of Popes which they say were built by the Emperour Constantine the Great Then I will set downe the rest in due order as they are seated And because I finished in hast the view of Rome in foure daies I will distinguish the Antiquities into foure daies iournies The first day being to visit these seuen Churches by reason of their distance and the hast we made I and my consorts hired each of vs a mule each man for two poli and we neuer found our errour till the euening when we demanding the way of a man of meane sort he replied thus with some anger What doe you ride to heauen and we poore wretches goe on foote without shooes to visit these holy Churches By this we found our errour and were glad that we had passed that day without further danger In generall these Churches are bare on the Inside without any pictures except some few about the Altars This day we first rode to the chiefe Church A dt S. Giouanni Laterano seated vpon Mount Celius and built by Constantine the Great in his Pallace and it hath a stately Font in which that Emperour was baptized and in the Church there be foure most faire pillars of brasse The Church is sustained by foure rowes of bricke pillars and there hang certaine banners taken from the French and neere the doore the Popes Sergius the fourth and Siluester the second are buried in low monuments In the Church yard are old sepulchers and little pillars of marble Neere to this Church lie those holy staires whereof I spake in my iourney from Rome to Naples when our Italian consorts went to pray for a happy iourney kneeling without the grates But they that will haue the grates opened to pray there vse to creepe vpon their knees from staire to staire and vpon each staire to say a pater noster and Aue Maria. These staires are twenty six in number diuided into three rowes and they be of marble vulgarly called Scale Sante and were brought from the house of Pilate in Hierusalem It is not safe for him to inquire after relikes who will not worship them yet to satisfie the curious I will set downe the chiefe by beare-say Here they shew a tooth of Saint Peter a Cup in which Saint Iohn dranke poyson at the command of Demitian and had no hurt The cloth with which Christ dried his Disciples feet the heads of Peter and Paul the rodde of Aaron the Arke of the couenant the table at which Christ supped three marble gates of Pilates house the Image of Christ being twelue yeeres old with the like Part of these they say were brought from Hierusalem by the Emperour Titus yet he was no Christian nor like to regard the monuments of Christ. One Chappell of this Church is called Sanctum Sanctorum and is thought to haue beene the Chamber of Constantine neither may any woman enter it To conclude the place is shewed here in which many counsels haue beene held and the Popes long dwelt here before the Pallace in the Vaticane was built The Church of B Saint Peter in the Mount Vaticano ioines to the Popes Pallace they say it was built by Constantine the Great The Popes haue giuen full remission of sinnes to them that pray here vpon certaine daies and like remission
Gate Saint Spirito and entered the second part of Rome Trasteuire by the Gate XVI Settimtana where vnder the Church of Saint Peter Montorio is the 〈◊〉 of Nero that is a place to represent Nauall fights and neere it is the like of Iulius Caesar. From this Church to the Church Saint Honorio is a Plaine wherein was the large and long Circus or Theater of Iulius Caesar. In this part of the Citie the Church of Saint Cecilia giues the title of a Cardinall and so doth the Church of Saint Grisogona The said Church of Saint Mary in this part of the City is the same which the old Romans called Taberna Meritoria where they shew a Fountaine whence they say that oyle did flow abundantly and runne towards Tiber the same night when Christ was borne and this Church also giues the title of a Cardinall and the old Romans called it Taberna Meritoria of the souldiers nourished there after they were past seruice by age or wounds This Church of Saint Peter is seated vpon the Mount Ianiculus in which there is a stately Monument erected by Pope Iulius the third to his vncle the Cardinall dt Monte. The Church of Saint Pancratius hath many stones of porphry and giues the title of a Cardinall and the Friars of Saint Ambrose dwell in this Monastery The Church Saint Honorio is a Monastery and giues the title of a Cardinall Neere the gate called Ripa was of old the Romans Armory of great circuit lying vpon the Tyber the vast ruines whereof yet remaine and the people of Rome seruing for more then two hundred yeeres in the warres without any pay was wont here to take Armes at their going forth and here to lay them vp at their returne And neere this place he the meadowes giuen by the people of Rome to Mucius Scaeuola for his valiant behauiour with King Porsena Hence turning to the left hand we came to the III Iland of Tyber in which the Church of S. Bartholmew of old consecrated to AEsculapius is adorned with 4 stately pillars of porphry it giues the title to a Cardinall At the foot of the bridge XXXIX S. Maria as you come out of the Iland and enter into Rome is the ruined house of Pontius Pilate and opposite to that is the most ancient Church consecrated to the Moone and vpon the other side another to the Sunne Here also is the Theater of Marcellus and the porch of Mercury Not farre thence is a marble head called Bocca della verita that is the mouth of truth of a woman as I remember falsifying her oath and bewraied thereby but others say it is the Idoll of Rbea Here also is the Church of Saint Mary called the Greeke Schoole in which Saint Augustine is said to haue taught but it is shut vp At the foot of Mount Auentine where the Iewes vse to fish if you looke backe you shall see the ruines of the old bridge Sublicius XLI Thence going to the gate of Saint Paul among vines you shall see the ruines of one hundred and forty garners for corne built of old by the Romans In the pleasant meadow wherein the XXXIIII mount Testaceus lies the Romans were wont of old to keepe their Olimpike games The sepulcher of 6 Caius Cestius is most ancient rising in a pyramis and the inscription shewes it was built in three hundred and thirty daies which the common sort falsly thinkes to be the Monument of Romulus This monument of stone is compassed with wals and it hath an inscription in great letters but raced out Some also thinke that it is the monument of Publius Sestius From the gate of Saint Paul we returned into the City and vnder the Church of Saint Gregory where Laundresses continually wash they say that of old the 7 Circus Maximut or greatest Theater did lie betweene the Mount Palatine and the Mount Auentine being more then a quarter of a mile long and halfe a quarter broad which was built by Tarquinius Priscus for the hunting of Buls and running of Horses and after was inlarged by Iulius Caesar and other Emperours so as it receiued 260 thousand beholders being adorned with pillars and commodious seates and at this day the place is called Cerchi Neere this place were of late three rowes of pillars one aboue the other and this monument is called Il Setti zonio di Senero of seuen souldiers engraued thereupon and is thought to be the sepulcher of Septismius Seuerus but the Pope Sixtus the fifth pulled it downe Neere this place vppon XXIIII Mount Auentine lie the Bathes halfe ruined of Antonius Caracalla built of bricke the large chambers whereof almost innumerable are of exceeding height hauing many stones and pillars of marble whereby it appeares to haue beene a most stately work The 8 church of S. Stephano Orotando seated in mount Celius giues the title of a Cardinall and is possessed by Fryars of Hungary and it was a Heathen Church of Faunus There lie old and high wals said to haue beene part of the conduit bringing water to the Capitoll I haue before spoken of the Church of A Saint Iohn Lateran being one of the seuen Churches and of Constantines Font therein and of the Chappel called Holy of Holies and of the holy staires I wil adde that here is an Obeliske called la Guglia of old consecrated to the Sunne and brought out of AEgypt which Iulius Caesar or Augustus did direct in the Circus Maximus but Pope Sixtus the fifth brought it hither in the fourth yeere of his Popedome and the yeere of our Lord 1588. and consecrating it to the Crosse set a guilded crosse vpon the top of it This Obeliske if it were of one stone were to be preferred to that of Saint Peter neere the Popes Pallace for otherwise it is higher and more curiously carued I haue spoken before of the Church D S. Croce in Gicrusalem being one of the seuen Churches seated neere the gate Maggiore At the gate of this Church they shew a place where the whores keepe a feast vpon the twenty of August and there of old was the Temple of Venus The Theater of bricke which is in this Church they say was built by Statilius Tamrus Hence returning into the City we passed by a place where of old was a monument called Trofei di Marie erected to Caius Marius triumphing vpon Iugurtha and the Cymbri and they say that the ruines thereof were admirable but now it is all defaced Neere the staires of the Capitoll they shew a ruinous heape which some say was this monument of Marius Passing towards the Capitoll we did see a Triumphall Arch erected to Galienus which of the Church adioining is called the Arch of Saint Vito and it is little perished with age Concerning the Churches lying from the Capitoll to the south parts of Rome The Church of Saint Anastatia that of Saint Mary In portico of old dedicated by the Heathens to Pudicitia that of Saint Iohn that of Saint
Paul vpon mount Celius that of Saint Mary In Dominica that of Saint Sistus that of Saint Sabina vpon Monnt Auentine in which they shew a stone cast by the Diuell at the head of Saint Dominicke and broken by miracle that of Saint Prisca of old dedicated to Hercules that of Saint Balbina vpon Mount Auentine that of Saint Iohn at the gate Latina where it is said Domitian cast Saint Iohn into boyling oyle but he escaped without hurt that of Saint Mary in Via without the gate of Saint Paul towards Ostia all these Churches giuetitles to Cardinals Neere the Church of Saint Alexius is a palme tree whereof I remember not to haue seene any other at Rome In the Church of Saint Saua the Abbot neere the other vpon Mount Auentine be the sepulchers of the Emperours Vespasian and Titus his son of white marble and the Altar hath two pillars of porphery The third day we began our view of Rome at the 10 pillar of the Emperor Traian erected to him making warre against the Parthians which he neuer saw dying in his returne It is seated in a little market place and was consecrated by Pope Sixtus the fifth to Saint Peter whose Image of brasse guilded ouer is set vpon the top thereof with this inscription in Latin Sixtus the fifth dedicated it to Saint Peter the third yeere of his Popedome The victories and actions of Traian are ingrauen vpon it and his ashes were of old placed in the top and here also was the horse of Traian This pillar is said to be one hundred twenty three foote high and it hath within two hundred twenty three staires to the top and forty foure windowes to let in light Hence we turned towards the City and came to 11 Campus Martius neere the hill Citorius which now is called piazza Colonna of the pillar of Antoninus Pias there erected which Pope Sixtus the fifth dedicated to Saint Paul setting his Image on the top and it hath about one hundred and seuenty staires to ascend and fifty sixe windowes and the outside is curiously engrauen with the actions of Antoninus The foresaid Campus Martius was the field of Tarquin the proud which the people of Rome dedicated to Mars for military exercises Neere the Church of Saint Mary liberatrice dalle pene d'Inferno seated in Forum Rominum and neere the 23 Arch of Settimius was of old the Temple of Vesta where her Virgines kept the sacred fier and the Image of Minerua and being conuicted of vnchaftity were led out of the gate Salaria with silence and were buried aliue in a place there called Campus Seeleratus being left or buried in a caue with a candle lighted and water and milke Neere this Church are most high pillars of the ruines of a marble gallery which Caligula built from the Capitoll to the Mount Palatine The 12 Church of S. Mary Soprala Minerua is so called for being of old consecrated to Minerua and it giues the title of a Cardinall Behind the Altar is the statua of Pope Leo the tenth and neere it another of Clement the seuenth both of white marble and another of Paul the fourth of brasse In this Church I did see the most proud procession of the Pope and there was such a presse to kisse his feet as I had almost beene carried by force to passe them or vndergoe capitall danger by refusall The Church of 13 Saint Mary Retonda was of old called Pantheon and the building is most ancient and magnificent being round in forme hauing no window but all the light comming from the open roofe whence the water falling is conuaied vnder the pauement and it is about seuenty walking paces large euery way The porch is borne vp with fifteene marble pillars each pillar being of one stone and all of admirable beauty and bignes The doore is of brasse the wals of brick with the inside couered with precious stones and the pauement is of marble and porphery Marcus Agrippa sonne in law to Augustus built this Church and dedicated it to Iupiter the Reuenger and to Ceres and to all the gods whereupon it was called Pantheon Not farre thence are the ruines of the Bath of Agrippa in a place called Ciambella und neere the Church of Saint Eustace great ruines of the Baths of Nero are yet remaining The place of old called 14 Circus Agonius is now called la piazza Nauona and it is the largest market place of Rome wherein markets are kept euery wednesday The Romans vsed it to see plaies and games of old being a large place yet of greater length then bredth Here lies the Spaniards Church Saint Iacobo and many of that Nation dwell there who vpon Easter euen and vpon festiuall times of their owne Nation vse to make fier-workes there with many other solemne games It hath three fountaines but the building is poore At one end of this market place in a corner of a street opposite to a publike Pallace is the statua of Pasquin vpon a wall of a priuate house which hath neither armes nor feet they being cut off by passengers in the night For all libels euen against the Pope himselfe vse to be made in forme of a dialogue and fastened vpon this statua of Pasquine and another of Marforio whereof I shall speake after they two bearing the persons one of the question maker the other of the answeret Neere the Church of 15 Saint Mary de la Consolatione as we came backe into the City our guide shewed vs a place where the house of Ouid did stand Concerning the Churches lying about the Mount Capitoline that of Saint Mary In Acquiro seated in the market place vulgarly piazza Crapanella giues the title of a Cardinall In the same market place is the monastery and Church of the Iesuites The Church of Saint Mauro hath a little Obeliske erected That of Saint Eustaeo giues the title to a Cardinall Neere it lies the Church of Saint Lew is proper to the French for all Kingdomes and Prouinces haue their peculiar Churches at Rome The Church of Saint Apollinaris and that of Saint Thomas In pariont and that of Saint Laurence In Damaso and that of Saint Angelo Inpiscaria which of old was confecrated to Inno and that of Saint Nicholas In Carcere doe all giue the titles of Cardinals The Church and Hospitall called Saint Mary del ' Anima is proper to the Dutch Nation The Church and Hospitall of Saint Thomas vulgarly di S. Tomaso is built for the English and is seated neere the 25 Pallace of Farnest The fourth day we began the view of Rome at the Market-place called 16 la piazza di Fieri lying in the way from the Iland of Tyber as you goe to the Bridge of S. Augelo Here was the house of the harlot Flora who made the people of Rome her heire wherupon the Romans to couer her shame made her the goddesse of flowers and yeerely kept her birth day vpō the third of April of which feast
hanging vpon the trees The way to Viterbo was through a fruitfull Plaine of corne and beyond this Mountaine were store of Oliue trees Vines Viterbo was of old called Faliscum and it hath 3 Cities within the wals but we passing suddenly through it I obserued nothing markeable but a faire Fountaine in the Market-place The way from thence was through a fruitfull Plaine of Corne to the said little Citie Montefiaschoni seated vpon a high Hill at the foote whereof begins the Lake of Bolsena and it is subiect to the Pope hauing no singular thing in it but the white and red Muskedine one of the most famous Wines in Italy Here we three Consorts had two beds for ten baochi and we supped vpon reckoning and each man paied two giulij The third day in the morning we rode eight miles by the Lake Bolsena through a Plaine of Corne hauing woody Hilles of Oakes not farre distant with store of Chessenut and Oliue trees In this Lake there is an Iland which the Queene Amalasuenta famous for her wisdome was killed by the commaund of the King of the Ostrogothes And in the Castle of Balsena they shew a piece of bread consecrated for the Lords Supper which being in the hand of a Priest not beleeuing that it was the very body of Christ did shed bloud as they say who haue many such lying Miracles Then we rode sixe miles to the Castle Acquapendente through a plaine of Corne where each man paied one giulio for his dinner vpon reckoning After dinner we rode through wilde Mountaines bearing little Corne twelue miles to the Brooke Paglia running vnder the Castle Redicofani and diuiding the States of the Pope and the Duke of Florence and we rode further in the State of Florence foure miles to a Country Inne as I thinke called Scancicricho where each man paied three poali and a half for his supper at an Ordinarie vulgarly Al pasto hauing almost nothing but red Herrings and Sallets to supper The fourth day in the morning vpon the last day of Aprill after the new stile in the yeere 1594 wee rode thirteene miles to a Countrey Inne through high Hilles of Corne and for the greater part very firtile where each man paied seuen baochi for his breakefast The same day we rode eighteene miles to Sienna through most pleasant Hilles and a firtile Plaine of Corne with store of Vines on each side and many Pallaces of Gentlemen so they call their houses built of Free-stone with a low roofe and small magnificence and most frequent dwellings of husbandmen We came to Sienna the Friday before Easter day and in a publike Inne each man paied three reali for his Supper The next day I went to Fiorenza for money and rode through Woods and fruitful Hils to the Castle Poggio walled townes being called Castles and after through stony Mountaines bearing Corne and Oliues till I came to the Village Tauernelle being seuenteene miles from Sienna where I paied two reali for my dinner vpon reckoning After dinner I rode fifteene miles to Fiorenza through stony little Mountaines bearing great store of Oliues Almonds and Chessenuts and many Poplar trees and towards our iourneyes end store of Cedar trees and wee passed by innumerable Pallaces of Gentlemen and a most faire Monastery called la Certosa and a desert Rocke vpon the top whereof an Heremite dwelt all alone This Territorie yeeldes great store of Pine-trees the boughes whereof are thicke and round at the top but the rest of the tree hath neither boughes nor leaues and it yeelds a very great Nut with very many kernels in one shell which are pleasant in taste and much vsed here in Banquets By the way I did meete a Dutch Lady with her Gentlewomen and men-seruants all in the habit of Franciscan Friers and not onely going on foote but also bare-footed through these stonie waies and because they were all aswell men as women in Friers weeds though I looked on them with some suspicion yet I knew not their sexe or qualitie till vpon inquirie at Florence I vnderstood that the Dutchesse of Fiorenza or Florente hearing that some women were passed by in Friers apparrell and thinking they were Nunnes stolne out of their Cloisters did cause them to bee brought backe vnto her and so vnderstood that vpon pennance imposed on them by their Confessour for the satisfaction of their sinnes they were enioyned to goe in that Friers habit bare-footed to Rome whereupon she dismissed them with honour I forgot to note what I paid for my horse from Sienna to Florence whether we came vpon Easter day and there I lodged in the Dutch Inne and paid three reali each meale But I did not at this time view the Citie deferring it till my returne The next morning I tooke my iourney to Pisa that by often remouing I might shun all question of my religion into which they vse more strictly to inquire at this time of the yeere when they vse to obserue who receiues not the Sacrament for howsoeuer there be lesse danger of the Inquisition in this State yet the Duke vsing not and scarce being able to protect those that rashly giue open offence I thought good thus warily to auoide these snares I went this iourney on foot meaning leisurely to see the next Cities so little distant one from the other as they were pleasant iourneys on foot especially in so pleasant a Countrie The first day in the morning I walked ten miles to the Castle Prato through the pleasant Valley of the Riuer Arno. This pleasant Castle or walled Towne is of a round forme hauing at the very enterance a large Market place wherein stands a faire Cathedrall Church adorned with many stones of marble and here I paied twelue creitzers for my dinner In the afternoone I walked ten Italian short miles to the City Pistoia through a most pleasant plaine called the Valley of Arno tilled after the manner of Lombardy bearing Corne and Wine in the same field all the Furrowes being planted with Elmes vpon which the Vines grow This Citie is seated in a Plaine and compassed with Mountaines which on other sides are somewhat distant but on the North-side hang ouer the same and here as likewise at Prato and Florence the streetes are paued with broad free stone most casie to walke vpon And the Cathedrall Church is stately built and the pauement is of Marble curiously wrought like the Church of Sienna The Citie hath the name in the Latin tongue as also in the Italian of a plague which inuaded the Citie when the Troopes of the Rebell Catilina being ouercome fled thither whose posteritie being seated there hath nourished a greater plague by perpetual factions shewing thereby of what race they came Desiderius King of Lombardy compassed the Citie with a wall After the Florentines about the yeere 1150 subdued this chiefe Citie of Hetruria vnder whose gouernement first the faction of the Neri and the Bianehi brake out and defiled the
forme not vnlike to an earthen vessell broad in the bottom and narrow at the mouth which narrow part lies towards the West where comming from Florence you enter by the Gate Camolea Neere the same is a Fort wherein the great Duke keepes souldiers and there without the gate is the Church of Saint Marie whether was great concourse of people for deuotion From hence to the East gate leading towards Rome the streetes lie euen and plaine though the Citie be seated vpon a mount and in this part toward the East the City is broadest and from this gate a man may see the Castle Redicofini forty miles distant vpon the confines of the States of the Pope and the great Duke Betweene the said gates as it were in the center of the City lies a most faire Marketplace in the forme of an Oyster and lying hollow as the shell thereof is And there is a stately Pallace of the Senate built when the Citie was free in the front whereof is a statua of mixt mettall vulgarly called di bronzo which seemes to bee apparelled hauing on the head a broad hat and this statua strikes the houre of the clock On the South-East side within the walles lies a large field which was then sowed with corne yet the Citie hath few or no Gardens within the wall Not farre from the walles on the South-side lies the Cathedrall Church vulgarly called Il Domo and howsoeuer it be little it seemed to me the fairest Church in Italy It hath but one dore to which you ascend by long and broad Marble staires All the pauement is most beautifull of ingrauen Marble adorned with Images of the fiue Sybills and there be in this Church some twentie Images of mixt mettall besides many other of Marble The seates of the Chauncell are of Walnut-tree curiously carued and all the roofe of the Church is painted of skie colour and all set with starres Vpon the inside and in the vpper part of the Church are the Images of the Popes wrought in stone to the shoulders set round about where betweene Gregorie the fourth and Adrian the second I wondred to see the head of Pope Ioane with the inscription naming her especially in a Citie so neere Rome Hauing noted this at Sienna and after my comming into England reading the same I searched Histories to see how they agreed in this matter which the Papists cannot heare with patience And I found in approued Authors that after the said Gregory the fourth succeeded Sergius the second confirmed by the Emperour Lotharius in the yeere 844 then Leo the fourth dying in the yeere 854 then Pope Ioane setting two yeeres and few moneths and dying in the yeere 856 then Benedict the third then Nicholas the Great in the yeere 858 then the foresaid Adrian the second in the yeere 867. And if any man aske why the heads of Sergins the second Leo the fourth Benedict the third and Nicholas the great being omitted the head of Pope Ioane should stand betweene the heads of Gregorie the fourth and Adrian the second I leauing the curious search thereof to them that list dispute it as a matter nothing to my purpose can suddenly giue no other reason thereof then that I coniecture the said heads were set on the other side of the Church for at that time I was content to note the same without casting this doubt and so not searching to satisfie my selfe therein But I dare boldly affirme that my selfe and the two Dutch-gentlemen my consorts did see this monument in this Church neere the doore on the right hand as we came in And since that time I haue conferred with diuers worthy English Gentlemen who affirmed that they did see the same In this Church are two sepulchers one of Pope Alexander the third the other of Pope Pius the second And in a Chappell of this Church is a most faire Font. From this Church discending by slope and steepe streetes towards the South-west wall you shall come to a most pleasant Fountaine called Fonte Branda without the South-gate of which the Citizens prouerbially say that if a stranger drinke thereof he shall so loue Sienna as he shall very vnwillingly and scarce at all depart from the City But the Florentincs in scorne of the Siennesi haue a prouerbe Chi de fonte Branda beue diuenta pazzo He that drinkes of the fountaine Branda becomes a foole It casts out water by nine mouthes of stone and there be three places where Laundresses wash and neere the same is a pleasant groue On the same South side towards the Sea some few miles from the Towne lies a fenny plaine called La Maremma most fruitfull in corne but infamous for ill aire so as the place being forsaken by all Italians is tilled by the Grisons comming downe from the Alpes to this place in winter time when the Alphes are all couered with snow and in the spring time returning backe into their owne Countrey Sienna it selfe is much subiect to raine so as a Spaniard comming often thither in rainy weather did write or is said to haue written to his friend for a wonder that it alwaies rained at Sienna On the North-east side of the City two large fields within the wals are sowed with corne All the pauement of the streets is of bricke which lasteth the longer because there be neither carts nor coaches but all burthens are carried vpon the backes of Asses There is a stately Pallace which Pope Pius the second built who was a Citizen of Sienna of the Family of Picciolomini and there in the Mount Oliuet the passion of Christ is curiously grauen It is vulgarly and truely said that Sienna abounds with Fountaines Towers and faire Weomen There is no better place to liue in through all Italy then the state of Florence and more specially the most sweet City of Sienna The Citizens whereof are most curteous and they haue many publike meetings of the young weomen Virgines to dance where the doore is open for any Citizen or stranger Besides Sienna is commended for the best language and in the same and in all the state of Florence men liue safe from robberies and from the murthers which are frequent in Lombardy Adde that they haue delicate diet at Florence at a reasonable rate and in the rest of the territory at a very cheape rate Our Hostesse at Sienna gaue vs cleane linnen often changed both at bed and boord a large chamber a good bed a linnen canopy oft changed and did prouide our meat very cleanly for which each man paid no morethen ten giulij by the moneth We bought our owne meat and I remember that the price of oyle was twenty fiue lires the barrell that I paid for as much wood as an Asse would beare foure baelli They haue butter but not so good as in the valley of Arno and they sell it twenty two sols the ounce The Magistrate sets a price vpon euery thing to be sold in the
these white marbles might haue a more beautifull race The Innes of this Towne were base and onely fit to entertaine Artificers and here I paid for a poore supper of herbes egges and chessenuts ten baeli The second day in the morning I went forward in my iourney on foot and that alone first three miles to the confines of the Marquesate of Masso then foure miles in the Territory of Genoa to a strong Fort belonging to that State and seated in a plaine and I paid for my passage ouer the Riuer Magra two baeli and after I went three miles ouer mountaines abounding with Oliue trees and the tree Lecha yeelding a fruit like the Oliue and so I came to Lirigi a Hauen Towne vpon the Tirrhene sea whence we were to sayle by the shore to Genoa There we expected passengers and a good wind for some few daies And at the same time there was the French Cardinall of Ioyeuse who was to saile into France I paid each night foure bolinei for my bed and eating vpon reckoning I spent lesse then two giulij by the day They vse to make this voyage to Genoa in little Barkes called Fregate and a lesse kind of boates called Feluce and each night to strike into some Port vpon the Coast. I passed in a Feluca and paid three reali for my passage The first day we sayled in a short space from Lirigi to Wien a Hauen not farre distant vnder a promontory at the enterance into this sea but the wind being high and our boat little and somewhat ouer loaded and the marriners themselues shewing no great confidence we durst not put forth to sayle any further I paid a cauelotto that is foure bolinei for my bed with a companion and six bolinei for my supper The second day the wind being somewhat calmed we sailed not without danger thirty miles to Sestri another Hauen This day was the day of Saint Katherine the Patronesse of Marriners who thinke that no man was euer drowned that day but they obserue that after that day the winds vse to grow boisterous I would willingly haue gone by land but this Coast being all of high Rockes there was no good high way ouer them nor commodity for passage Yet you cannot imagine a more fruitfull and pleasant place then the narrow vallies and hils lying vpon the sea side onely this coast lying vpon the south sunne breathing fier out of Affricke is subiect to great heat in summer time This Territory doth so abound with fruitfull trees and flowers as the markets are furnished with them in the very moneth of December It yeeldeth noble wines namely Lavernazza and in villages called Cinqueterre the wine called Le lagrime di Christo that is the teares of Christ which is so pleasant as the Ialians say that a Dutchman tasting it did greatly lament that Christ had not wept in his Conntrey At Sestri we had delicate white bread and excellent wine as likewise in all this iourney and all things at a cheape rate and each man spent there nine bolinei The third day we sailed ten miles ouer an arme of the sea to Porto Fino called of old the Hauen Delfinus now they call it Fino for the goodnes thereof On the East side of this Promontory the sea was most calme but when we passed to the West side the winds were so high and the waues so troubled as we had almost beene cast away and were by force driuen vpon the side of a Rocke where my consorts trusted to their crucifixes vowes and beades vpon which they number their praiers and my selfe creeping vpon hands and knees with great difficulty first got to the top of the rocke where being in safety the name of the Hauen came in my mind which answereth to my Christian name and thanking God for my deliuerance from this danger I was glad that I escaped christening in this Hauen of my owne name After my other consorts climbed to me and thence we went on foot ten miles by the twilight of the euening and Moone light to a village where each man vpon reckoning paid sixe bolinei for his supper The next morning early before day breake we went forward on foot our consorts of Genoa often warning vs to be silent for feare of theeues and after we had gone sixe miles we came by the breaking of the day to Genoa By the way we did see a Village all ruined and they told vs that Turkish Pirates landing suddenly had spoiled the same and burnt it and had pulled downe the Churches and Altars and among other Prisoners had taken away a most faire Virgine from her bridegroomes side who had married her the day before The description of Genoa A The Fort of the sea banke B Statuaes erected to the builders thereof C the Pallace of Andreetta D' Auria without the wals vpon the sea D the statua of Andrea d' Auria vpon the wall E the new Fort F the new streete most stately built G the Cathedrall Church K Saint Mathewes Church L the Dukes Pallace M the inner Hauen N the Tower Faro and the ruines of the Fort called La Briglia that is the bridle PPPP three gates of the City and the fourth leading to the Hauen On the North-east side where the sea lies P vpon the City we entered and at the very enterance we did see two stately Pallaces of Georgio d' Auria and a Gentleman called Seba and sixe other Pallaces but lesse stately Gtnoa is seated vpon the sides of mountaines and hils declining from the highest mountaine on the Westside towards the East and to the sea side Vpon the foresaid North and North-east side werelong suburbs and two gates and without the wals a Riuer fals from the Westerne mountaines towards the East and so into the Sea On the South-side is the outward Hauen in the forme of a halfe moone vpon the horne whereof towards the East lies the sea banke called La Mola about 600. paces long which keepeth off the waues of the sea that beat vpon the City on the East side And in the middest of this bank is a A Fort built to detend the Nauy There also are certaine statuaes B erected to the founders of the building And in the furthest corner of this hauen towards the City is an M inner hauen compassed with wals where the gallies lie vnder a couered biniding Neer that is the Armory of the City the chief gally in the Port called La Reale the Regal was about seucnty fiue walking paces long and they sayd that foure hundred Rowers belonged to the same At the other horne of the outward Port towards the south-west is the N tower Faro vpon firme land kept by certaine watchmen who by night hang out lights to direct the marriners at sea Neere that lies the Fort Lahiigita that is the bridle which the French King Lewis the twelfth fortified but the Citizens expelling the French out of the City demolished the same Thence as you walke
to bee seene neere the Church of Saint Michael After it was subiect to the Kings of Italy and the Berengarij being ouercome it was subiect to the Emperour Otho the first by right of his wife and successiuely to the Emperours with some shew of a free Citie which freedome that they might more fully attaine they willingly yeelded themselues in the yeere 254 to the Archbishop of Rauenna After they were subiect to vsurping Citizens whom the Vicounts of Milan expelled and so ioyned this Citie to their State which together with the Dukedome of Milan came to the Spaniards hands in the time of the Emperour Charles the fifth I lodged here in a faire Inne but common to the baser for t the Hostesse whereof was a Masculine woman and by the night letting in Ruffines to drinke I was not a little affraid of some violence to bee offered mee in my chamber whereupon I firmely resolued with my selfe to lodge euer after in the best Inne and of best fame especially in Lombardy infamous for murthers and here I paied for my supper and my bed three reali I went on foote from Pauia going forth at the Nothwest Gate twenty miles through rich Pastures to Milan called la grande that is The great of the large circuit thereof The Citie hath the name of Olanus a Tuscane Captaine or the Latin word media lana that is Halfe wooll of those kinde of stuffes made in the Citie It is large populous and very rich seated in a Plaine as all Lombardy lies and that most firtile and by the commoditie of a little Riuer brought to the Citie by the French and almost compassing the same it aboundeth also with forraine Merchandise Of old it was the seate of many Roman Emperours but the Historie of the Citie being contained in the Historie of Italy I will onely remember that the Archbishop thereof long time challenged the Primacie in the Italian Church neuer acknowledging the Bishop of Rome for superiour and that he crowned the Emperour with a Crowne of Iron after the people of Milan had approued him That the King of the Ostrogothes had the same Crowne set vpon his head after his victorie which Crowne they say was giuen in signe that the Empire and the command of Milan were to be won by Iron That the Citizens of Milan were often Rebels to the Emperours That the Vicounts made vicarij of the Citie did by little and little subiect the Territorie and the Citie with title of Duke of Milan That the Family of Vicounts being extinct in Duke Philip about the yeere 1447 the Dukes of Orleance by right of their Mother and Francis Sforza by the right of his wife chalenged the inheritance of the Dukedome but the Emperour thought the same to bee fallen backe to his right That Francis Sforza was by the people first made Captaine of their forces then chosen Duke That the French King Francis the first defending the right of the Dukes of Orleans cast Sforza out of the Dukedome in the yeere 1449. That the Emperor Charles the sift casting out the French in the vere 1521 first restored Sforza to the Dukedome with some restraint of his power but he being dead inuaded the Dukedom himself wherupon after many contentions battels it came to his successours the Kings of Spaine of the family of Austria to whom at this day it is subject The Citie is of a round for me and hath nine gates the building shewes antiquitie and the houses are of bricke and low built excepting some stately Pallaces such as is that of the Duke of Terra Noua the streetes are broad and the pauement of bricke raised in the middest with broad stones When I came to the Citie on foote I made offer to enter at the Gate called Genese on the South side but the Guard refused me as a foot-man to pasle into the Citie and lest by my importunitie I should haue made them looke more narrowly into my qualitie they being commonly expert men to find out any disguised person I went backe into the Suburbes as it I would lodge there but as soone as I was out of sight I walked further towards the East compaising a great Fen and so ioyning my selfe to some Citizens returning from walking in the fieldes I entered with them into the Citie by the next Gate on the same South side which Gate is called Lodouico and was only kept by one souldier A little Brooke within the walles compasseth the very center of the Citie circularly beyond which Brooke on the North-side within the walles not farre from the Gate Zobia is a large Meadow wherein are no houses for there is the most strong Castle seated in a Plaine and kept by a Spanish Garrison into which no Frenchman may enter Therefore I hauing gotten so difficultly into the City restrained my curiositie from attempting to view this Castle lest I should rashly expose my selfe to great danger Further towards the North without the Gate Renza is a large Hospitall for those that are sicke of the plague hauing more chimnies as they say then the yeere hath dayes Not tarre from the Gate Genese is the Church of S. Laurence which os old was dedicated to Hercules by the Emperour Maximinianus Erculeus buried in the same and it hath a rare Image of the Virgin Marie and 16 stately Marble Pillars and the building is Magnificent The Emperour Theodosius is said to haue giuen to S. Ambrose Archbishop of Milan one of the nailes wherewith Christ was fastened to the Crosse and the brasen Serpent that Moses lift vp in the Desert the Image of which Serpent was of mixt mettall vulgarly called di bronzo and they say that S. Ambrose left these reliques in the Churches of S. Tccla and of S. Ambrose and the Altar vnder which the body of S. Ambrose lies is valued at 28000 Crownes In the Church Delle Gratte belonging to the Bene dictine Friers not farre from the Gate Zobia is a stately Throne and vnder it an vnperfected monumēt which Duke Lodouico Sforza purposed to haue built for himselfe but the French cast him out of his Dukedome and he died in France And in this Monastery is a notable Library and in the place where the Friers eate the supper of our Lord is painted with wonderfull art In the little Chappell of S. Gottard is the sepulcher of that Saint whose name the mountaine of the Alpes doth beare which is most famous for the difficult passage The great stately Cathedrall Church called Il Domo is built all of white marble and supported with some 100 marble pillars in which at this day they sing the masse of S. Ambrose differing from the Roman Masse and onely agreeing therewith in the words of consecration From Milan to Cremona are accounted 52 miles and I making short stay at Milan for the danger of my abode there hired a horse to Cremona for a Crowne of gold wanting 8 soldi and riding out at the
be the priuiledges which the Iewes haue gotten by bribing especially in the Dutchéy of Sauoy through the vnsatiable auarice of our Christian Princes Neere this Market-place is the large Church of Saint Andrew and the Senate-house in which they shew two statuaes of Cupid whereof one is ancient and of much greater value then the other and a very long Vnicornes horne and a paire of Organs of Aliblaster besides Iewels and vessels of gold and siluer Not farrethence is the third Market-place of Iustice. To conclude at the gate of Saint Francis Church is the head of Virgil which the Neapolitans say as in the description of that Citie I formerly said was stolne from the Sepulcher of Virgil vpon the Mount Pausilip In the Pallace called dellaragione is another statua of Virgil sitting at a Table of brasse as if hee were writing and crowned with Laurell I said formerly that there is a passage from the Lakes into the Riuer Po and so by water to Venice and the Duke to take his pleasure vpon the water hath a baot called Bucentoro because it will beare some two hundred and it is built in the vpper part like a banqueting house hauing fiue roomes with glased windowes wherein the Duke and his Traine doe sit and these roomes are supported vpon a boat the Mariners that row the same sitting vnder the said roomes the first and largest roome whereof was fifteene walking paces long with benches on both sides the second was eight paces long the third fiue and the fourth likewise fiue paces long the fifth was a Gallerie ouer the other roomes fortie paces long and open to which they mounted by staires out of the first roome And this boate doth not onely much differ from our Kings barges aswell for the bignesse as the rich furniture but also is flat in the bottome the waters being still and calme on which it passeth These roomes according to occasions haue more or lesse rich hangings when the Duke either goeth out to disport himself or when he takes any iourny therin as oft he doth It is vnlawfull to weare a sword without licence of the Magistrate either at Milan Cremona Mantua or almost in any Citie of Italy onely at Venice and Paduoa and the Cities of that State strangers may weare Swords and onely the wearing of Pistols or short gunnes is forbidden At Mantua I paied three reali each meale and being to depart thence I was forced to take a Bill of the Customers by which they signifie to the Guard at the gate whether the passenger be to goe on horseback on foote or by coach and what tribute he is to pay for which Bill a footeman paies 3. soldi another passenger six Thus the Princes of italy hauing small Territories doe not onely burthen their subiects with taxes but all strangers strictly take account from the exacters therof Being to goe from hence to Paduoa we went out of the gate Saint Ceorge and I hired a horse from Mantua to the Castle Este for eleuen lires The first day wee passed by a Forte of the Venetians most strongly fortified vpon the consines of that State which Fort lies vpon the Riuer Athesis and is called Lignaco and rode some twenty miles through a Plaine tilled after the manner of Lombardy to Monteguiara where I paied fortie soldi that is two lires for my supper The next morning I rode nine miles to the Castle Este whence is the Family of the Dukes of Ferraria long flourishing but now extinct From thence I passed by boate 15 miles to Paduoa and paied 22 soldi for my passage This day when I returned to Paduoa was the 14 of December after the new stile in the yeere 1594 which city the rate of vittles there I haue formerly described CHAP. IIII. Of the Sopulcher of Petrarch at Arqua Of my iourney to Vicenza Verona Brescia and Bergnmo in Italy then passing the Alpes to Chur Zurech Solothurn Geneua and in my returne thence to Berna in Sweitzerland thence to Strasburg in Germany and to Chalon to Paris to Roan and to Diepe in France and finally of my passagety 〈◊〉 Land to London in England WHilest I expected the commoditie of the Spring for my iourney home-wards I went to Venice to receiue money there and retaining a sufficient proportion in my hands I thought to make ouer the rest to Paris by bills of exchange but France hauing been now long wasted with ciuill war I could not finde one Merchant of Venice who had any the least Traffick at Paris Therefore persisting still in my obstinate purpose to returne by France I thought at least to procure the change of this money to Geneua And so only out of my desire to see the Citie of Geneua I resolued againe to passe ouer the Alpes into Sweitzerland though I had formerly seene those Townes Then I bought an Hungarian horse for twentie Crownes of a Dutch Gentleman newly ariued in these parts And while I prepared all things necessary for my iourney and expected a sit season of the yeere it came in my minde to see the Monument not farre distant of the famous Poet Francis Petrarch and being willing to giue my horse rest I went on foot with certaine Dutch Gentlemen thirteene miles to Arqua By the way we did see a most faire Monastery Praia and the Baths of Abano the water wherof doth boile with such heate as it would fetch off the skinne being touched At Arqua is the sepulcher of Fetrarch of red marble spotted and it hath this inscription in Latin To the worthy man F. P. a Laureat Poet his sonne in Law Francis Lus-debro Sauo of Milan for their inward conuersation loue affinitte and his succession left this memory Vnder that followed these verses Frigida Francisci lapis hic tegit ossa Petrarchae Suscipe virgo parens animam sate virgine parce Fessaque iam terris caeli requiescat in Arce This stone doth Francis Petrarches bones inclose Take my soule Virgin spare it Virgins sonne Tired on earth in heauen let it repose Then followed letters raced out MCCC 〈◊〉 XX. XVIIII Then followed the third inscription in Latin with his Image To Francis Petrarch Paulus Valdezucus admiring his Poems and succeeding him in the possession of his house and fields made this Image in the yeere MDXCVII the Ides of September There is also a Fountaine vulgarly called the Fountaine of Petrarch vpon which these verses are written Fonti numen inest hospes venerare liquorem Vnde bihens cecinit digna Petrarcha Deis Some god dwells here worship the sacred Spring Whence Petrarch drinking heauenly Rimes did sing Petrarch dwelt at Arqua and here in the same house wherein they say he dwelt the historie of Petrarches life is painted where the owner of the house shewed vs some household stuffe belonging to him and the very skinne of a Cat he loued which they haue dried and still keepe Here I did see his Studie a pleasant roome especially for the sweet
Vpon the same South side within the wals is a faire market place and the Pallace of the Venetian Gouernour which Gouernour in Italy is vulgarly called Il Podesta And necre the wals on this side lies a stately Monument of an old Amphitheater at this day little ruined vulgarly called Harena and built by Luc Flaminius though others say it was built by the Emperour Octauius It passeth in bignesse all the old Amphitheaters in Italy and the outside thereof is of Marble and the inner side with all the seates is of bricke It is of an ouall forme and the inner yard is sixety three walking paces long and forty eight broade where the lowest seates are most narrow whence the seates arise in forty foure staires or degrees howsoeuer others write that there be onely forty two degrees and they so arise as the vpper is still of greater circuit then the lower And the shoppes of the Citizens built on the outside vnder the said increase of the inner circuit haue about fifty two walking paces in bredth which is to be added to make the full breadth of the inside It hath eighteene gates and betweene euery Arch are very faire statuaes and the seates within the same are said to bee capable of twentie three thousand one hundred eightie and foure beholders each one hauing a foote and a halfe allowed for his seate Each one of vs gaue two gagetti to the keeper of this monument Alboinus King of the Lombards was killed by his wife at Verona In the Monastery of Saint Zeno is a Monument erected to Pipin sonne to Charles the Great and betweene this Monastery and the next Church in a Church yard vnder the ground is the Monument of Queene Amalasaenta Barengarius King of Italy was killed at Verona and this City braggeth of two famous Citizens namely the old Poet Catullus and Guarinus a late writer The territorie of this Citie is most fruitfull abounding with all necessaries for life and more specially with rich Wines particularly the Retian wine much praised by Pliny and preferred to the Wine of Falernum by Virgill which the Kings of the Gothes were wont to carrie with them as farre as Rome It is of a red colour and sweet and howsoeuer it seemes thicke more fit to be eaten then drunke yet it is of a most pleasant taste The Lake Bennaeus is much commended for the store of good Carpes and other good fish besides this territory yeelds very good marble Here I paid forty soldi for my supper and sixteene soldi for the stable that is for hay and straw and eighteene soldi for three measures of Oates Certaine Gentlemen bearing me company from Paduoa to this City and being to returne thither did here each of them hire a horse for three lires and a halfe to Vicenza where they were to pay for their horse meat From hence I rode fifteene miles to the Castle Peschiera built by the old Lords of Verona and seated vpon the Lake Bennacus vulgarly called Il Lago di Gardo where they demanded of me two quatrines for the passage of a bridge but when I shewed them my Matricula that is a paper witnessing that I was a scholler of Paduoa they dismissed me as free of all Tributes And in like sort by the same writing I was freed at Paduoa from paying six soldi and at Verona from paying eight soldi I rode from this Castle seuen miles to a Village seated vpon the same Lake famous for the pleasant territory and the aboundance of good fish and here I paid twenty soldi for my dinner and eight soldi for my horse meat All my iourney this day was in a most sweet plaine rising still higher with faire distances so as the ascent could hardly be seene After dinner I rode eighteene miles to Brescia which City flourished vnder thelold Emperours of Italy then was subiect to the Lombards and tyrant Kings of Italy and they being ouercome to Charles the Great and French Gouernours then to the Westerne Emperours of Germany and to the Italian family of the Berengarij And it obtained of the Emperour Otho the priuiledge to be a free City of the Empire till being wasted by the factions of the Guelphi and Gibellini the Scaligeri a family of the same City made themselues Lords thereof whom the Vicounts of Milan cast out of the Citie and when Phillip Maria Duke of Milan oppressed the City and would not be induced to ease the same of his great impositions they yeelded themselues in the yeere 1509 to the French King who had defeated the Venetian Army Then by the French Kings agreement with the Emperour Maximiltan the Citie was giuen into the Emperours hands whose Nephew the Emperour Charles the fifth restored the same to the French King Francis the first who likewise in the yeere 1517 gaue the same into the hands of the Venetians The most fruitfull territorie of Brescia hath mines of Iron and brasse and I thinke so many Castles Villages and Houses so little distant the one from the other can hardly be found else where The Brooke Garza runs through the City which is of a round forme and is seated for the most part in a plaine and towards the North vpon the side of a mountaine where a Tower is built which hath many houses adioining and in this Tower or Castle the Venctian Gouernour dwels who takes an oath that he will neuer goe out of the same till a new Gouernour be sent from Venice The Cities building is of bricke the streetes are large and are paued with flint Boniface Bembus was a Citizen of Brescia and the Brescians as also the Citizens of Bergamo are in manners and customes more like the French their old Lords then the other Italians farther distant from France and the very weomen receiue and giue salutations and conuerse with the French liberty without any offence to their husbands which other Italians would neuer indure Here I paid forty soldi for my supper and forty soldi for foure measures of oates and for the stable From hence I rode thirty two miles to Bergamo and as the territories in this part of Italy lying vpon the South sunne which beats vpon the sides of the hils and mountaines with great reflection of heat and vpon the other side defended from the cold windes of the North and East by the interposition of the Alpes are singularly fruitfull and pleasant so for the first twenty miles of this daies iourney they seemed to me more pleasant then the very plaine of Capua yeelding plenty of corne and of vines growing vpon Elmes in the furrowes of the lands which Elmes are planted in such artificiall rowes as the prospect thereof much delighteth the eye And the other twelue miles were yet more pleasant being tilled in like sort and towards my iournies end yeelding most large and rich pastures The City Bergamo after the Roman Empire was extinct first obeyed the Lombards then the French and following the fortune
little Mountaine The houses are vniformely and very fairely built of free-storie hauing the first vpper roomes of the houses cast out towards the streetes and supported with arches vnder which they walke drie in the greatest raine Round about this little Mountaine the Citizens haue their gardens from the fall of the same to the lowest Valleyes and vpon the South-East by South is a most faire Church and very pleasant for the light somnesse thereof and on euery side there is a pleasant place for walking On the South side without the walles the Riuer Arba runnes from the West to the East and is passed by a bridge at the East ende of the Citie whence it turneth towards the North and so makes the Citie almost an Iland Here I paied fourteene batzen for my supper and horsemeate The fourth day in the morning I rode three miles in sixe houres space through fruitfull fieldes of Corne and pasture to Solothurn And by the way I obserued a monument of the English defeated by the Sweitzers with this in scription in Dutch Ritterlich erschlagen die English gùckler Anno 1425 arme Iucke That is The English Iuglers Knightly beaten in the yeere 1425 poore Knaues The English Histories make no mention of any warre with the Sweitzers Semler a Sweitzer Historian in his first booke fifty fourth leafe writes that Leopold Duke of Austria drew the English against the Sweitzers and that they did much hurt by wasting the Territories aswell of Austria as of Sweitzerland but that they being ouercome in some battels did after the wasting of these Countries returne home in the yeere 1376 and this he calles the first English warre Also Semler in his first booke the leafe 273 writes that the English as it seemes called from the French warre did at the instance of Duke Leopold besiege Strassburg in the yeere 1365 but the Emperor Charles the fourth comming with an armie against them that they retired But neither doe the words of Semler agree since he calles the first attempt the first English warre and after mentions another of former time neither doe the yeeres set downe by Semler agree with the yeeres of this monument neither seemes it by the French Histories that the English had any leasure to make warre vpon the Sweitzers in the yeere 1365 and lesse in the yeere 1376. To conclude it appeares aswell by the English as French Histories that the English Conquerours in France had so weightie a warre lying there vpon them in the yeere 1425 set downe in this monument as it is not credible they could at that time turne their forces any other way Only the most approued French Writers witnes that the English and French hauing made a truce for eighteene moneths in the yeere 1443 it seemed good to the leaders on both sides that the souldiers hating rest and peace should be drawne out to some forraine warre and that the English seruing vnder Lewis the Dolphin of France the said Lewis in the yeere 1444 making warre vpon the Sweitzers killed therein 4000 of them but the victorie was so bloudy of this battell fought in the territorie of Bazel as he that had the victorie lost some 5000 men of his owne and that the Emperour Frederick the third comming against him he drew his men backe For my part I leaue the credit of this monument to be tried by the consent of Historians and returne to my iourney The fifth day in the morning I rode foure miles to the Towne Ottmersea and in the afternoone through a stony Plaine of Corne and some Woods I rode foure miles to Besa The sixth day in the morning I rode fiue miles through the like Plaine to Gerzen and in the after-noone through a woody heath Plaine and towards my iournies end through fruitfull fields of Corne I rode foure miles to Strassburg And in all this iourney I payed about seuen batzen for each meale From Solothurne to Strassburg some reckon senentene miles others twenty two miles for the Dutch reckon the miles diuersly according to the length of them in their owne Countrey and in these parts they vse to distinguish their iournies by howers riding not by miles Not farre from the foresaid Towne Besa lies the Citie Bazell which I haue described in my former iourney through these parts But to gratifie those who loue to search antiquities giue me leaue to say that Augusta Rauracorum so called for distinction from Augusta Vindelicorum a Citie of great antiquitie and at this day become a poore Village lies distant from Bazell some mile towards the Mountaine Iura and that neere this ancient Citie are many old monuments of the Romans and many buildings vnder the earth which my selfe being lesse curious did not see and that the Husbandmen there digged vp lately a coyne of gold and sold it for copper which was after valued at nine Crownes of the old Romans I say nothing of Strassburg which I haue in the foresaid place formerly described onely I will say that I had the good fortune there to find a French Gentleman the Gouernour of Monwick with his traine in whose company I rode thither 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 a fruitfull Plaine of Corne foure miles to Sauerne in which Citie the Papisticall Chanons of Strassburg haue long fortified themselues vnder the protection of the Duke of Loraine against their Lords the Senators of Strassburg and haue appropriated to themselues great part of the reuenewes of that Bishoppricke lying vnder their power After dinner I rode three miles through Hilles yet couered with snow to Villa Noua Concerning my expences I spent each day little lesse then a French Crowne namely two franckes for my supper and commonly three French soulz for my breake-fast and one franck for my horsemeate The second day I rode one mile to the confines of the Empire and the Dukedome of Loraine and some three miles further to Monwick where so much salt is made as the Duke of Loraine yeerely receiues sixty thousand French Crownes for the same The third day through a dyrtie way and fruitfull fieldes of Corne I rode fiue miles to the Citie Nanzi where the Duke of Loraine keepes his Court and when I was entring the Gate the Captaine of the Guard drew towards mee to know my name and Countrie I not ignorant that the Family of Loraine vsurping great power in France vnder the pretence to defend the Roman Religion bare no good will to the English at that time answered that I was a Polonian hee inquired many things of the Kingdome King and Queene of Poland and perceiuing that I answered him directly hee whispered something with some chiefe men of the Guard about my confidence and so turning againe to me bad me lift vp my hand for so the French vse to take othes I was much affraid lest I should bee forced vpon this oath to confesse my Countrey which I had dissembled but when I demaunded the cause hee told mee
harme to the same from some high places without this gate On the left hand as you come into the broad and faire street of Saint Denys lies a Castle which they say Iulius Casar built and the same Castle was of old the chiefe gate of Paris whereupon Marcellinus cals the whole City the Castle of the Parisians And vpon the righthand is the Nunnery of the daughters of God which vse to giue three morsels of bread and a cup of wine to condemned men going to execution Not farre thence is the large Church yard of the Holy Innocents which King Phillip Augustus compassed with wals and there be many faire sepulchers and they say that bodies buried there are consumed in nine daies The fifth F gate lies toward the North and is called Mont-Martre so called of a mountaine of the same name lying without that gate and hauing the name of Martyres there executed And Henry the fourth besieging the City mounted his great Ordinance in this place The sixth G gate Saint Honore hath a suburbe in which is the market place for swines flesh and vpon the right hand as you come in hard by the gate is an Hospitall for three hundred blind men The seuenth H and last gate lies vpon the Seyne towards the North-west and is called the new gate and within the same about a musket shot distance is the I Kings Pallace which may be called the lesse Pallace in respect of the greater seated in the Iland and this little Pallace is vulgarly called Le' leuure This Pallace hath onely one Court yard and is of a quadrangle forme saue that the length somewhat passeth the bredth and the building being of free stone seemeth partly old partly new and towards one of the corners the Kings chambers vulgarly called Il Pauillon are more fairely built then the rest Without the said new gate some halfe musket shot distance is the Kings garden with the banquetting house vulgarly called Les Tuilleries And now the ciuill warres being ended the King beganne to build a stately gallery which should ioine together this garden and the foresaid Pallace of the King and I heare that this Gallery is since finished And the hall ioining this gallery with the Pallace doth passe the stately building of the rest of the Pallace being beautified with many stones of marble and of porphery I say that this Gallery leads from the Pallace ouer the wals of the City and the ditch thereof being neere the riuer and so full of water and after being supported with two or three Arches reacheth to the same garden and all the way without the wals from the Pallace to the said Garden being compassed with wals on both sides this gallery the Garden seemes to be so much increased On the left hand as you come into the foresaid new Gate lies the Tower Luparia Alencon house Burbon house the Coyning house and vpon the right hand the chiefe Coyning house lying vpon the Riuer Seyne To conclude of the streetes of this part of the Citie called Ville the chiefe is S. Antoine the second of the Temple the third S. Martine the fourth S. Denys the fifth Mont Martre the sixth S. Honore all so named of their Gates and the seuenth Luparia vpon the banke of the Riuer Seyne And amongst all these the most faire are that of S. Antoine S. Denis S. Honorè and S. Martinè so called of their Gates A. E. G. D. The second part of the Citie called the Vniuersitie hath the Riuer Seyne on the East and North-sides and is compassed with walles on the South and West sides and hath seuen Gates The first K Gate S. Victoire lies on the South side vpon the Riuer and hath his Suburbe with a stately Monastery And from the Hill adioyning to this Gate the Army of King Henrie the fourth besieging the Citie much pressed the same hauing their Cannon planted neere the Gallowes On the right hand as you come in towards the Riuer lie the Tower Nella the vpper the Colledge of the Cardinall the Colledge of the good boyes the Colledge and the Church of the Bernardines which Pope Benedict the twelfth built and the Cardinall of Telouse increased with a Libraty and with maintenance for sixteene Scholers to studie Diuinitie Also there lie the house of Lorayne the great Schooles of foure Nations the Market place for Riuer fish and the Castle and the little bridge which the Prouost of Paris built to restraine the Schollers walking by night in the time of King Charles the fifth The second gate is called L the Porte of Marcellus or of the Stewes and it hath a Suburbe where in the Church of Saint Marcellus Bishop of Paris and canonized for a Saint which Rowland Count of Blois nephew to Charles the Great did build Peter Lombardiu Bishop of Paris was buried in the yeere 1164 and behinde the great Altar in a window is the Image of Charles the Great On the right hand as you enter the said Port by the Mount of S. Genouefa lie the Colledge Turnonium the Colledge Bonae Curiae the Colledge of the Dutch the Colledge of Navarra the Colledge Marchieum and the Colledge Laudunense and on the left hand the Colledge of the Lombards the Colledge Prellaum famous for Peter Ramus who was Master of that Colledge was there killed in the massacre The third Gate of M S Iames lyes on the South-west side where King Francis the first built a fort without this Gate is a suburb in which is a Church yard of the Monastery of Saint Marie at the very entrie whereof is a most ancient Image of the Virgin painted with gold and siluer with an inscription vpon it In the streete of Saint Iames the Iesuites had their Colledges till for their wicked acts they were banished the Citie and Kingdome And since their restitution I thinke they now enioy the same On the right hand as you enter this Gate lie the Colledge Lexouiense the Colledge of Saint Michael or Cenate the Colledge Montis Acuti which built in the yeere 1490 maintaines certaine poore Scholers called Capeti the Colledge of S. Barbera the Colledge of Rheines the schoole of Decrees the Colledge Bellouaccuse the Colledge Triqueticum the Colledge Cameracense and the Colledge Carnouallense On the left hand lie the Colledge of the bald men the Colledge of Sorbona which Robert of Sorbona a Diuine and familiar with King Saint Lewis did institute and the same in processe of time became of great authority in determining questions of Diuinity the Colledge of Master Geruasius a Christian the Colledge Plexourense and the Colledge Marmontense The fourth N Gate of the vniuersity is called Port Michaell where Francis the first built a Fort and before the gate is a Monastery of the Carthusians where a statua of blacke marble is erected to Peter Nauareus and there be two statuaes of white marble without any inscription On the right hand as you enter this gate lie the
twelfth did build with Regall expence this Chamber and another called the Chamber of Accounts vulgarly la chambre des comptes In this Pallace the Chappell built by Saint Lewis lyes vpon an arched Chappell which hath no pillars in the middest but onely on the sides and they say that the true Images of Christ and the blessed Virgin are vpon the lower dore And in this Chappell the reliques are kept which Balduinus the Emperour of Constantinople ingaged to the Venetians and the King of France redeemed out of their hands In the very Hall of the Pallace round about the pillars are shops of small wares or trifles Right against the Gate of the Pallace stood the house of Iohn Chastell which was pulled downe in memorie of a young man his sonne brought vp among the Iesuites and a practiser of their wicked doctrine who attempting the death of King Henrie the fourth did strike out one of his teeth I haue said formerly that this Iland was ioyned to the Ville by three Bridges and to the Vniuersitie by two Bridges and at this time is ioyned to them both by the sixth Bridge The first V Bridge towards South-East leades to the street of Saint Martin and is called pont de nostre Dame that is the Bridge of our Lady and it was built of wood in the yeere 1417 hauing threescore walking paces in length and eighteene in breadth and threescore houses of bricke on each side built vpon it But this bridge in the time of Lewis the twelfth falling with his owne weight was rebuilt vpon sixe Arches of stone with threescore eight houses all of like bignesse built vpon it and was paued with stone so that any that passed it could hardly discerne it to bee a Bridge The second Bridge of the Broakers vulgarly W Pont au Change is supported with pillars of wood The third Bridge of the Millers vulgarly called X Pont aux Musniers lies towards the North-West and leades to the streete of Saint Denis which they say did fall and was rebuilt within three yeeres then past By these three Bridges the Iland was of old ioyned to the Ville The fourth Bridge lying on the other side of the Iland towards the South leades into the streete of Saint Iames and is called Y le petit pont that is The little Bridge being rebuilt or repaired of stone by King Charles the sixth The sifth Bridge is called Z Saint Michell and lying towards the South-West side leades into the streete of Saint Michell and hath a pleasant walke towards the foresaid Bridge of the millers on the other side of the Iland and built vpon pillars of wood was repaired in the yeere 1547 and adorned with bricke houses By these two Bridges the Iland was of old ioyned to the Vniuersitie Since that time after the ende of the Ciuill warre a new Bridge hath been lately built on that side of the Iland which lyes towards the North-West and it is called XX pont neuf that is The new Bridge ioyning the Iland both to the Ville and to the Vniuersitie The chiefe streetes of the Iland are the very Bridges and the 〈◊〉 waies leading to the Cathedrall Church and to the greater Pallace The Church or the little Citie compassed with walles in respect of the Church of Saint Denis the Protecting Saint of the French is two little miles distant from Paris Hither I went passing by the Gate of Saint Denis lying towards the North East Thence I passed vpon a way paued with Flint in a large Plaine towards the East hauing Mount Falcon on my right hand whether I said that they vse to draw the dead bodies of those that are beheaded in the Ville and the next way to this mount is to goe out by the Gate of Saint Martin And vpon my left hand I had the Mountaine of the Martirs vulgarly called Mont Martre and the next way from the Citie to this Mountaine is to goe out by the Gate Mont Martre Vpon this Mountaine they say that the Martyrs Dennis Areopagita and Rustieus and Eleutherius were beheaded in the time of Domitian because they would not offer sacrifice to Mercurie And they constantly beleeue this miracle that all these three Martyrs carried each one his head to the Village Catula which now is called Saint Dennis And I obserued by the way many pillars with Altars set vp in the places where they say the Martyrs rested forsooth with their heades in their hand and at last fell downe at Catula where this Church was built ouer them and likewise a a Monastery by King Dagobertus who also lyes there buried and hath a statua in the Cloister of the Monastery Here are the Sepulchers of the Kings among which that of King Francis the 〈◊〉 is somewhat more stately then the other being of white Marble with the statuaes of that King and his Queene Claudia there buried with him That of Lewis the twelfth and his Queene is of white Marble but lesse faire and the third erected to Charles the eight in a Chappell of the Church is of blacke Marble with some statuaes of brasse To conclude to euery three or foure of the rest of the Kings one poore monument is erected Neither are these sepulchers of the Kings in my opinion any thing stately or answerable to the fame But at the entrance of the Chauncell the representation of Christ buried and of the three Kings or Wisemen and of the shepheards and others there engrauen seemed to me who haue no skill in that Art to bee of much Art and beautie I haue read other Itineraries which relate that here are bells of most pure Mettal that the dores are of Brasse guilded ouer that the Table of the high Altar is of Gold that here is a Crosse of Gold offered by King Dagobert that the bodies of the Martyrs are laid in a coffin of Gold that the roofe of the Church is partly of siluer and that there is a Crucifix of Gold before the Altar But I should thinke that these old ornaments are taken away and not to bee seene at this day Hauing viewed Paris I desired to see the French King Henrie the fourth and his Court and because I lately had been robbed aswell of my cloake as of my Crownes here I bought for some two French Crownes an old cloake among the Brokers in the Market place called the Fripperie So I tooke my iourney towards the Court and went by boate vpon the Seyne which boat daily passeth from Paris towards the South nine leagues to Corbeuile and foure leagues to Melune hauing on both sides pleasant Hilles planted with Vines and I payed seuen soulz for my passage Then I went on foote foure miles ouer a Mountaine paued with Flint to the Kings Pallace called Fontain-bleau that is the Fountaine of faire water Beyond the same Mountaine this Pallace of the King is seated in a Plaine compassed with Rockes And it is built with Kingly Magnificence of Free-stone diuided into
And he shewed vs one that had throughout the figure of Christ crucified another that had the figure of the Popes triple Crowne and another that had the liuely figure of Luther Surely the Germans are accounted no iuglers nor liers and if they would haue deceiued vs yet I cannot see how our eyes should be deceiued seeing many of them broken and stil hauing the same figure This poore Village yet pleasant for the seat was of old a City and at this time the houses were couered as they be in many parts of Germany not with tiles of bricke but with like peeces of wood Here each of vs paid a quarter of a doller for our owne and the Coach-mans dinner In the afternoone we passed a dirty way but through fruitfull corne fields foure miles to Sangerhausen where each of vs in like sort paid the fourth part of a doller and a grosh for our supper This being the first Village of the Prouince Thuring belongs to the Elector of Saxony The fourth day in the morning wee passed through most pleasant fruitfull hils of corne adorned with some pleasant woods which in higher Germany are of firre that is greene all winter foure miles in the territory of the Elector of Saxony to a Countrey Inne where hauing nothing but egges for our dinner we paid iointly ten siluer grosh After dinner we passed in the same Electors territory and through the like soyle or Countrey three miles and a halfe to a Countrey Inne where we had to supper a pudding as big as a mans legge and grosse meat and straw for our beds and iointly paid foureteene grosh The fifth day early in the morning we passed-through the like way but more pleasant for the plenty of Vines two miles to the City of Erfurt where we foure English consorts with our Coach-man paied iointly a doller and twenty one grosh for our dinner with sower wine of the Countrey This City is seated in a plaine and is a free City but not an imperiall City and paies some tribute to the Bishop of Metz and to the Saxon Duke of Wineberg It is large being a Dutch mile in compasse but the houses are poorely built of timber and clay hauing the roofes couered with tiles of wood and they seeme to be built of old It hath forty two Churches but onely sixteene are vsed for diuine seruice namely eight for the Papists among which are the two Cathedrall Churches vnder the power of the Archbishop of Metz and eight for the Protestants or Lutherans This is the chiefe City of Thuring and of old here was an Vniuersity but time hath dissolued it After dinner at the first going out of the City wee ascended a very high mountaine whereupon is a pleasant wood of firre Then we passed by the beautifull little City of Armstat I call it beautifull for the seate in a firtile soyle hauing drie and pleasant walkes and for the plenty of fountaines and groaues and for the magnificence of the Castle wherein the Count of Schwartzburg keepes his Court finally for the vniforme building of the City which some fifteene yeeres past was burnt to the ground and was since rebuilded and so comming from Erfurt we passed three long miles to the Village Blaw subiect to the Count of Schwartzburg where iointly we paid foureteene grosh for our supper The sixth day we passed three miles through wooddy mountaines to the Village Fraw-im-Wald that is our Lady in the wood which Village is subiect to the said Count and here we paid iointly thirty seuen grosh and a halfe for our dinner After dinner wee passed three miles through mountaines couered with snow and woods of firre to Eysfield subiect to the Saxon Duke of Coburg For this wood of Thuring vulgarly called Thuringwald hath many Lords namely the Elector of Saxony the Saxon Dukes of Wineberg Coburg and the Count Schwartzburg The Duke of Coburg hath in this place a faire Castle and we paid iointly for vs foure and the Coach-man sixty foure grosh for our supper and breakefast The seuenth day in the morning we passed three miles ouer dirty mountaines and fruitfull in corne to Coburg seated in the Prouince of Franconia They say this City was of old called Cotburg that is the City of dirt and the dirty streetes well deserue the name Here one of the Dukes of Saxony called of Coburg kept his Court and our Host told vs that his Dutchesse for adultery was then bricked vp in a wall the place being so narrow as shee could onely stand and hauing no dore but onely a hole whereat they gaue her meat The building of the City was very base of timber and clay Here we fiue paid sixteene grosh for our dinner In the afternoone we passed two miles to the Towne Clawsen through fruitfull hils of corne and in a most dirty way where we fiue paid forty nine grosh for our supper and the Towne is subiect to the Popish Bishop of Bamberg The eight day we passed foure miles to Bamberg through a fruitfull plaine of corne and pleasant hils planted with vines and in a most dirty way This City is the seate of the Bishop of Bamberg By the way we passed by a Ferry the Riuer Manus running to Franckfort Here we fiue paid thirty seuen grosh for our dinner In the afternoone we passed through a wood of firre in a sandy soyle and then through fruitfull fields of corne and pleasant hils three mile vnto a Village subiect to the Margraue of Anspach from which a City subiect to the Bishop of Bamberg is not farre distant for the Princes dominions in these parts are mingled one with the other and here we fiue paid fifty fiue grosh for our supper The ninth day we passed three miles through a sandy and barren plaine and woods of firre alwaies greene to a Village subiect to the said Margraue where we fiue paid forty grosh for our dinner In the afternoone we passed three miles through the like way to Nurnburg and being now free from paying for our Coach-man each of vs paid here six batzen each meale and foure creitzers each day for our chamber This City I haue formerly discribed and so passe it ouer Here we hired a Coach being seuen consorts for twelue Dutch guldens to Augsburg being nineteene miles distant The first day after breakefast we passed through Nurnburg wood two miles and in the said Margraues territory who is of the Family of the Electors of Brandeburg foure miles to Blinfield and each of vs paid ten batzen for our supper and foure batzen for a banquet after supper The second day in the morning we passed foure miles to the City Monheyme subiect to the Phaltz-graue of the Rheine and here each of vs paid halfe a gulden for his dinner By the way in this mornings iourney we did see Weyssenburg a free but not imperiall City protected by Nurnburg The Margraue of Anspach Lord of this territory hath a Fort built vpon a Mountaine
that hangs ouer this free City which when he did build the Citizens complained to the Emperour and they say that how soeuer they brought the Emperours Mandate to desist from the worke yet he would not obey the same The rest of our iourny to Monheyme was in the territory of the Baron of Papenheym in a dirty way through many woods And in a village subiect to that Baron we had a guide and two fresh horses for our Coach and for them our Coach-man paid sixe batzen After dinner we passed three miles through a wood and fruitfull hils of corne to the City Donwerd being a faire imperiall City which I haue formerly described and here each man paid sixe batzen for his supper Now we were come out of Franconio and began to enter into Suenia The third day we passed three miles through fruitfull fields of corne and woods of firre to a Village where each man paid eight batzen for his dinner In the afternoone we passed through likeway three miles to Augsburg where each man paid seuen batzen for each meale I passe ouer this City which I haue discribed before Heere we agreed with the Carrier of Augsburg who by course that weeke went to Venice that each of vs should pay him seuenteene Crownes each Crowne worth twentie two batzen and that he not onely should find euery man a horse and pay for the horses meate but also should pay for our diet And heere I gained this by my Dutch Language that making the bargaine with him for one of my Countrimen who could not speake Dutch when wee came to Venice and hee hauing no mony could not pay the Carrier I had no remedie but to pay those Crownes for him to which the Law would haue compelled me as the maker of the bargaine if I had not rather chosen willingly to doe it See how ignorance may sometimes aduantage and skill may preiudice a man We began this iourney in the afternoone and the first day through a Heath and in the Territorie of the Duke of Bauaria from the very Gates of Augsburg wee rode sixe miles to an Inne neere Landsperg The second day in the morning through fruitfull Hilles and Woods of Firre greene at this time of the yeere we rode foure miles to Schongaw and after dinner through Mountaines couered with snow foure miles to Amberg The third day in the morning we rode two miles to the Village Warten kerken and after dinner sixe short miles to Seyfeld and in the midest of the way a Bridge diuides the Dukedome of Bauaria from the County of Tyrall At Seyfeld there is a Church built in memory of a Gentleman swallowed vp by the gaping earth as they say because being to receiue the Sacrament hee demaunded in scoffe a great piece of bread The fourth day in the morning wee rode three miles to Inspruck the chiefe Citie of Tyrall subiect to the Familie of Austria where being at the top of the Alpes the Mountaines beganne to open towardes the South and our mornings iourney was in a pleasant Plaine betweene the highest Mountaines Passing this plaine they shewed vs vpon a high Mountaine so high as we could scarce discerne the things they shewed though of great bignesse I say they shewed vs the statua of the Emperour Maximiltan proportionable to his body and a great Crucifix erected by him vpon this occasion One day when he hunted and wandring from his company lost himselfe so as he had no hope to get out of those most thick woods and most high Mountaines there appeared to him a man or as they said his good Angell who led him through wilde vast Woods till he came in safetie and then vanished away in memorie whereof they say the Emperour erected these monuments In this Citie of Inspruck and in the Cathedrall Church thereof is the Sepulcher of the said Emperour and there be many Images partly of Brasse partly of Marble erected to the Archdukes of Austria and eight of Brasse erected to the Arch-Dutchesses Among them was the sepulcher of Philippina a Citizens Daughter of Augsburg whom the Arch-Duke Ferdinand lately buried and lying in a Chappell without any sepulcher as then erected to him tooke for his Wife but with a coucnant as they say that her children should not inherit as Arch-dukes of Austria From hence wee rode in the afternoone betweene Mountaines descending into Italy and lying towards the South Sunne foure miles and a halfe of most pleasant way to Lueg The fifth day we passed the Mountaine Bremer and rode two miles and a halfe to Sterzen subiect to the Cardinall of Brixia one of the Family of the Arch-Dukes of Austria at Inspruck The Mountaine Bremer is more then a Dutch mile high yet nothing steepe this way from Augsburg to Venice being for the most part through pleasant Vallyes in the middest of Mountaines and so winding ouer the Mountaines as the passage is very easie Here my brother Henrie falling sicke I delt with the carrier that we paying him three guldins and a halfe for the common charge of his companies supper he would there stay for vs till the next morning and this likewise I obtained of our consorts with more ease because they were to diet at the Carriers charge The sixth day we rode three miles to a Village not farre distant from Brixia where the said Cardinall held his Court this way being all through woody Mountaines After dinner we rode three miles in the said Cardinals Territorie through Mountaines and Hilles planted with Vines and lying towards the South Sunne to Clausy The seuenth day we rode foure miles in a straight way betweene Rockes with pleasant Orchards of Pomgranats and other Italian fruites lying on both sides to 〈◊〉 which the Dutch call Pozen And after dinner we began to leaue the Alpes on our backe and rode three miles to Newmart through Woods of Firre in a Plaine more and more inlarging it selfe and planted after the Lombard fashion with Elme trees set in the surrowes of Corne-fieldes and Vines growing vp high vpon the Elmes The eighth day wee rode by the banke of the Riuer Athesis to Trent three miles in the County Tyroll within the Dutch Empire and one Dutch mile in Italy The Citie Trent is seated in length from a Mountaine on the East side to another on the West side and the Riuer Athesis which the Dutch call Esh runnes by the City on the North side The Citie is famous by a late Councell held there and the Arch-Duke of Austria at Inspruck hath his Officer there to gather Tributes belonging to him And the Cardinall Madrucci lame of an arme and foote but reputed eloquent hath some priuiledges in this Citie for the administration of Iustice and otherwise for the command of the Citie belongs to the Family of Madrucci being Gentlemen After dinner we entered the Mountaines againe where wee walked ouer a way paued with Flint which the Dutch call Plat and did leade our horses in our hands
of this house Here the Souldiers spoiled our Redeemer of his garments and in scorne attired him with purple 23 The Arch of Pilate which is a gallery of bricke built ouer the street from one wall to another whence Pilate shewed Christ to the people saying behold the man doe with him what you will 24 Here they say the Virgin Mary fell downe fainting when Christ was led to Mount Caluary 25 Here they say that Christ fainting the Iewes tooke his Crosse and laied it vppon Symon of Cyren 26 The Pallace of King Herod 27 Here they say Christ vttered these words Daughters of Syon weepe not for me weepe for your selues c. 28 Here they say the rich glutton dwelt and not farre hence they shew the house where Mary Magdalen washed Christs feete with her teares and dried them with the haires of her head 29 Here they say Veronica dwelt and that this woman gaue her white hand-kercher to Christ when he did sweat blood who wiping his face therewith left the liuely print of it therein about which hand-kercher the Romans and the Spaniards contend both saying that they haue it and shewing it for an holy relike to the people 30 The Gate of old called Iudiciall now not extant by which Christ was led to Mount Caluary to be crucified for this mountaine now inclosed within the wals was then without the wals And the way from the house of Pontius Pilate noted with the figures 22 to this gate is called the dolorous way by the Italian Christians because Christ was led by it to his passion 31 The prison from whence the Angell brought Peter breaking his chaines and opening the iron doore and it is seated vnder the ruines of the Pallace which since that time belonged to the Knights of Ierusalem 32 The Church which the Christians built ouer the Sepulcher of Christ of which I will after write more largely making a rude Mappe thereof as I haue done of the City 33 The Monastery of the Franciscan Friars in which we did Iodge being seated on the highest part of Mount Caluary which since hath beene called the Mount of our holy Sauiour And this is called the new Monastery in respect of the old noted with the figure 6 and onely hath the monuments of the old painted to the visiting whereof the Pope hath giuen large indulgences The Franciscan Friars conducting vs shewed vs some other monuments within the wals And not farre from the gate of Syon noted with the figure 4 they shewed vs 34 the house of the High Priest Anna where Christ was examined by the Pharises and there they shewed vs an Oliue tree which must needs be old to which they say Christ was bound 35 The Church of the Apostle Saint Iames whom the Spaniards call Saint Iames of Gallicia and worship for their protecting Saint who was called Iames the greater and they say was here beheaded This Church is stately built for the pouerty of the Armenians who built it and maintained there an Archbishoppe to keepe it and to performe there the rites of their religion 36 The place where they say Christ appeared to the three Maries dwelling together vpon the very day of his resurrection where the Christians built three Churches which the Turks haue conuerted to 3 Moschees yet bearing no reuerence to the place because they beleeue not that Christ died and much lesse beleeue that he rose againe 37 The house of the Euangelist Saint Marke mentioned in the twelfth Chapter of the Acts. This is the house of Mary the Mother of Iohn surnamed Marke whither Peter came when the Angell deliuered him out of prison into which Herod had cast him noted with the figure 31 At this day there was an obscure Church kept by the Syrian Priests 38 Here they shew the Iron gate which Peter found miraculously opened and by the same entring into the other City came to the house of Saint Marke We going out at Saint Steuens Gate towards the East descended into the vally of Iehosaphat and here they say 39 the bridge stood by which the Queene of Saba passed ouer the Brooke Cedron and that the Crosse of Christ was made of the wood of this bridge 40 In this place they say the Protomartyre Saint Steuen was stoned 41 This smal line without the Easterne gates shewes the bed of the brook Cedron or Kidron which is very narrow hauing not at this time one drop of water so as we passed ouer the stony bed with drie feet But of old when Ierusalem flourished and had many conduits of water drawne to it then it is probable that it was filled with water And at this day when any rainefals the water runnes swiftly from the mountaines on the North side according to this blacke line through the most pleasant vally of Iehosaphat This vally extendeth it selfe on both sides of this brooke some two Italian miles in length but is very narrow and it hath on the West side the wals of the City where Salomons Temple stood vpon the lower part of the Mount Moriah and it hath vpon the East side the most high Mount Oliuet and it hath on the North side mountaines somewhat but not farre distant from the City and vpon the South-side mountaines a little more distant Many interpret the Prophet Ioell in his third Chapter and second verse as if Gods Tribunall at the day of iudgement should stand in this vally and thereupon the Iewes when they die in remote parts will be brought to be buried in this vally for the expedition of their triall But the best Diuines doe teach that the word Iehosaphat signifies the Iudgement of the Lord and that the Prophet may be interpreted figuratiuely namely that as the Lord often defeated with great slaughters the enemies of his Church in this valley so in the day of iudgement he will strike the wicked vvith like confusion 42 Beyond the Brooke is a stately Sepulcher for the most part vnder the earth into which we descended by some fiftie staires and about the middle descent on the left hand towards the City vnder an Altar lie the bodies of Ioseph and Ioachimus and on the right hand the body of Anna namely of the Husband Father and Mother of the Virgin Marie In the bottome is a Church in the middle whereof vnder a stone raised some few feete from the ground they say the Apostles buried the Virgin Mary This Church so they call all places where they haue Altars to sing Masses is very darke hauing no light but by one window or vent made through the earth and vpon this monument lies part of the bed of the Brook Cedron On the right hand the Turks who greately reuerence the monuments of Christ while he liued haue made themselues an Oratory But for the monument it selfe the Franciscan Friers of the Latin Church haue alone the priuiledge to keepe the same and the Altar thereof for their singing of Masses 43 Here is a Caue at the foote
Riuer we did see some ten Italian miles distant On the North-side of Ierusalem I cannot say whether beyond Iordan or no we did see many Towers hauing globes of glistering mettall and that very distinctly the day being cleere also we did see the wals of a City neere the Riuer Iordan and they said that it was Ieriche Further towards the North they shewed vs from farre off a place where they say our Sauiour was baptized by Iohn And they affirme vpon experience had that the water of Iordan taken in a pitcher will very long keepe sweet and that it corrupted not though they carried it into forraigne parts This water seemed very cleere till it fell into a Lake where they say Sodome with the other Cities stood of old before they were burnt by fier from Heauen And the day being cleere we did plainely see and much maruell that the cleere and siluer streame of Iordan flowing from the North to the South when in the end it fell into the said Lake became as blacke as pitch The Friers our guides seriously protested that if any liuing thing were cast into this Lake of Sodom it could not be made to sinke whereas any heauy dead thing went presently to the bottome Also that a candle lighted cannot be thrust vnder the water by any force nor be extinguished by the water but that a candle vnlighted will presently sinke I omit for breuities sake many wondrous things they told vs of the putrifaction of the aire and other strange things with such confidence as if they would extort beliefe from vs. We had a great desire to see these places but were discouraged from that attempt by the feare of the Arabians and Moores for they inhabite all these Territories And I said before that the Arabians howsoeuer subiect to the Turk yet exercise continuall robberies with all libertie and impunitie the Turkes being not able to restraine them because they are barbarous and liue farre from their chiefe power where they can easily flye into desart places Yet these Barbarians doe strictly obserue their faith to those that are vnder their protection And all the Merchants chuseone or other of the Arabian Captaines and for a small pension procure themselues to be receiued into their protection which done these Captaines proclaime their names through all their Cities and Tents in which for the most part they liue and euer after will seuerely reuenge any wrong done to them so as they passe most safely with their goods All other men they spoile and make excursions with their leaders and sometime with their King to the sea side as farre as Ioppa and much further within Land spoyling and many times killing all they meet When we returned from Bethania we declined to the North side of Mount Oliuet and came to the ruines of 71 Bethphage where Christ sent for the Colt of an Asse and riding thereupon while the people cried Hosanna to the Highest and laid branches and leaues vnder his feet did enter into Ierusalem Vpon Friday the seuenth of Iune to wards the euening we tooke our iourney to Bethlehem Iuda and we foure lay consorts the Friars by our consent still hauing the priuiledge to be free from these expences deliuered iointly foure zechines to the Friars ours guides for our charges whereof they gaue vs no other account then they did formerly yet they onely disbursed some small rewards since we went on foot and were otherwise tied to satisfie the Friars of the Monastery vnder the name of gift or almes for our diet there but since they vsed vs friendly we would not displease them for so small a matter We went out of the City by the gate of Ioppa on the West side and so along 72 this line passed by a paued causey beyond Mount Sion and then ascended another Mountaine to Bethlehem 73 Here they shew the Garden of Vvia and the Fountaine wherein Bersheba washed her selfe which at that time was drie And from the place where the Tower of Dauid was seated vpon Mount Sion noted with the figure 6 is an easie prospect into this garden 74 Here they show the Tower of Saint Simion 75 Here is a Tree of Terebinth which beares a fruit of a blacke colour like vnto an Oliue yeelding oyle and vnder this tree they say the Virgine did rest when shee carried Christ to be presented in the Temple For which cause the Papists make their beades of this tree and esteeming them holy especially when they haue touched the rest of the monuments they carry them into Europe and giue them to their friends for great presents and holy relikes 76 Here they shew a fountaine called of the Wise-men of the East and they say that the starre did here againe appeare to them after they came from Herod 77 Here they shew the ruines of a house wherein they say that the Prophet Habakcuk dwelt and was thence carried by the haires of the head to feede Daniel in the Lions Den at Babylon 78 Here they shew the Fountaine of the Prophet Elias and the stone vpon which he vsed to sleepe vpon which they shew the print of his head shoulders and other members which prints haue some similitude but no iust proportion of those members From a rock neere this place we did see at once both Ierusalem Bethlehem 79 Here they shew a Tower and ruines where the Patriarck Iacob dwelt and here againe we did see both Cities 80 Here is an old stately Sepulcher in which they say Rachel Iacobs wife was buried It is almost of a round forme built of stone and lime foure foote high hauing the like couer aboue it borne vp by foure pillars There be two other Sepulchers but nothing so faire and all three are inclosed within one wall of stone 81 Here they shew the Fountaine for the water whereof Dauid thirsted yet would not drinke it when it was brought with the hazard of blood 82 Here the City Bethlehem is seated which then was but a Village hauing no beauty but the Monastery 83 Here the Monastery is seated large in circuit and built rather after the manner of Europe then Asia which the Italian Franciscan Friars called Latines and more commonly Franckes doe possesse but other Christian sects haue their Altars in the Church by speciall priuiledge and the Turkes themselues comming hither in Pilgrimage doe lie within the Church for the Turkes haue a peculiar way by a doore of Iron made of old and kept by them to enter into the Chappell where they say Christ was borne This Monastery seemes strong enough against the sudden attempts of the Turkes or Arabians yet the Friars in that case dare not resist them liuing onely in safety by the reuerence which that people beares to this place and by the opinion of their owne pouerty The greater Church is large and high in which I numbred twenty foure pillars but my consorts being more curious obserued that the pillars were set in foure rankes euery ranke
hauing eleuen pillars seuen foote distant one from the other whereof many were of porphery and had beautifull spots The highest roofe of the Church on the inside is painted with Histories of the Scripture with a rich painting that shineth with gold and glasse as if it were enameled called in Italian Alla Mosaica and the pauement is rich with stones of marble porphery and Iaspar From the lesse Church called of Saint Katherine we entred a Caue vnder the earth where the Friars gaue euery one of vs a lighted waxe candle in his hand Let them place what religion they will therein I am sure the Caue was so darke as we could not haue passed it without a light In this Caue wee did first see the bones of the Infants killed by Herod then the Sepulchers of Eusebius and of Saint Ierome in his Chappell for they hold that he long dwelt there Then they did lead vs into a more darke place where they say he did liue an austere life fifty yeeres space and translated the Bible out of Hebrew into Latine and wrote many volumes But the place seemed to me more fit to dull the braine then to yeeld such fruites of wit by reason it was darke and digged deepe vnder ground From this Caue we ascended by ten marble staires into a Chappell all couered with marble and lying in length from the West at which end we entered to the East And from this West end as well Turkes as Christians of all sects goe vpon their knees to the Easterne end and there kisse a marked stone in the pauement in which verie place they say the Redeemer of the World was borne By this stone on the South-side lieth a little Chappell hauing two doores onely diuided with a pillar In which Chappell at the right hand or West-side is a manger raised from the ground and all of marble in which they say Christ was laid after his birth and in the wall they shew a stone hauing as they say the liuely picture of Saint Hierome In the said little Chappell on the left hand or East side they shew a place where they say Christ was circumcised and shed the first drops of his precious blood for the sauing of mankind And there they fhewed another place where they say the Wise-men of the East adored Christ and offered to him their gifts The wals of both Chappels the pauements and all things are couered with marble The roofe on the inside is painted with the foresaid rich pictures glistering likeenamelled worke To conclude all things are stately and rich and remain so vnder the Turkish tiranny yet more rich in the Chappell of Chrsts birth then in the greater Church where all things then began to fall to ruine because the Turkes beleeue not that Christ died The Turkes doe so reuerence this monument of Christs birth as they creepe groueling vpon hands knees to kisse the said stone yet in the meane time they despise the monuments of his death because they beleeue not that he died From hence going Backe the same way we entered they shew vpon the right hand a hole in the highest roofe of the Church by which they say the starre that conducted the Wise-men fell from aboue into the bowels of the earth Can he forbeare laughter who considers the bignes of the starres yea euen of Comets as some write that was specially finding no mention of this falling of the starre to be made in the holy scriptures The City or Village of Bethlehem is distant from Ierusalem some fiue miles in Turky I alwaies vnderstand Italian miles and we came hither from the Westerne gate of Ierusalem through a faire way and mountaines planted with Vines Oliues and fruitfull Trees Bethlehem is seated vpon Mountaines and hath pleasant hils on the East and South-sides a pleasant plaine on the North-side ending in great mountaines towards Ierusalem 84 As wee went out of Bethlehem to visit the Monuments here they shewed vs the field in which the Angell made knowne the birth of Christ to the Shepheards and the Caue wherein they did lie by day to shun the heate of the Sunne 85 Here they say the Patriarch Lot planted the first Vine 86 Here beyond pleasant Hilles wee did distinctly see the Plaine of Iordan and the dead Sea with the situation of Sodom and Gomorra 87 Here they say Bethalia was seated of old 88 Here we did see the ruines of a house in which they say Ioseph the Virgins Husband did dwell 89 Here they say the Virgin hid her selfe from the tyranny of Herod 90 Here they say that King Salomon had his Garden The Franciscan Friers sent out of Italy each third yeere into these parts did courtcously intertaine vs at Bethlehem and at our first comming in imitation of Christ they washed our feete It happened that my brother fell sicke here of an Ague and so when our consorts vpon Saterday in the euening returned to Ierusalem wee were forced to stay here that night But the next day in the euening we came to them at the Monastery of Ierusalem And because they made haste to returne homeward wee went forth the next day being Munday the tenth of Iune earely in the morning to see the Mountaines of Iudea And that day it happened that I was troubled with loosenesse of body whereof I made good vse as I shall hereafter shew which makes me name it We went out of the Citie at the Gate of Ioppa on the West side and vpon our right hand they shewed vs 91 this place where they say that Salomon was anointed King 92 Thence we went right forward to a Fountaine in the Desart where they say Phillip the Apostle did interpret the Scriptures to the Eunuch of Candace Queene of Ethropii and baptized him 93 Here they say is the Desart in which Iohn Baptist preached and they shewed vs his Caue cut out of a Rocke and a long stone therein vpon which he vsed to lye and a pleasant spring issuing out of the Rocke where hee vsed to drinke and another stone vpon which he vsed to sit 94 He e we came to the Mountaines or Mountanous places of Iudea and here they say the Prophet Zacharias dwelt where a woman of the Moores kept the Church of old built there 95 From hence a Musket shot or little more is another house which they say belonged to Zacharias and in one of these houses he pronounced the Song Blessed bee the Lord God of Israel c. And when the Virgin visited Elizabeth the Babe here sprang in her wombe and the Virgin here pronounced the Song My soule doth magnifie c. And Iohn Raptist was borne here 96 From this place they say the Tree was taken vpon which the Crosse of Christ was made and Greeke Friers keepe the Church that was here built This place is two miles distant from Ierusalem whether we returned the same way we came out and entered the Citie by the West Gate of Ioppa The
Church built vpon Christs Sepulcher of old by the Christians at Ierusalem is formerly noted by the figure 32 and wee entered the same vpon Tuesday the eleuenth of Iune towards the euening at which time the Turkish Cady sent vs his Officer to open the dore of it to whom we payed for tribute after the dore was opened each of vs nine zechines and besides gaue the Officer or Ianizare a small reward for himselfe But it is the custome that he that hath once payed this tribute may any time after enter this Church without paying any thing if he can watch the opportunity of other Christians entering the same The rude but true figure in plaine of Christs Sepulcher and the Church built ouer it at Ierusalem a By this one and only dore being of brasse and on the South side of the Church entrance is giuen into the said Church They say there was of old another dore not farre from this towards the East but now it was not extant b This marke shewes where the Belfrey stands which is of ancient building and now in great part was ruined while the Turkes admit no vse of any Belles A A Marble stone called the stone of Vnction where they say the body of Christ was imbalmed before it was buried And it is compassed with grates of Iron hauing aboue it nine Lampes continually burning maintained by the nine Sects of Christians B The Sepulcher of Godfrey King of Ierusalem to which other lesse Sepulchers are adioyning erected to Kings and Queenes of his Family And this Sepulcher hath this Epitaph in Latin Here lyes worthy Godfrey of Bullon who conquered all this Land to the worship of Christ whose saule may it rest in peace Amen C The Sepulcher of Baldwine his brother and successor in the Kingdome with this Epitaph in Latin King Balduinus another Iudas Machabeus the Hope of his Countrey the Life of the Church the strength of both These verses added Quem for midabant cui Dona Tributa ferebant AEgipti caesar Dan ac homicida Damascus Whom Egypt Dan Damascus homicide With gifts and Tributes gladly pacifide D Here is Mount Caluary and the staires to ascend thereunto the walles of al the building vpon it the Altars and the pauements all shine with Marble the roofe on the inside glisters with the foresaid rich painting which seemes to be enameled And diuers Altars are proper to diuers Nations or Sects for their Rites of Religion To these Altars vpon the Mountaine we ascended by some twenty staires and there they shewed vs three holes wherein the three Crosses of Christ and the two theeues were erected And at the figure 1 where they say the Crosse of Christ stood they shewed vs stones rent or the rending of the Mountaine when Christ died Vnder this Mountaine in the corner towards the dore of the Church they bade vs looke in at a little window and there they shewed vs a scull which they say was the scull of Adam of which they say the Mountaine was called Golgotha 2 Without the doore of the Church we ascended to a Chappell aboue this Mount where they shewed vs an Altar vpon which they say Melchisedeck offered sacrifices 3 Also a Chappell where they say Abraham would haue offered Isaac 4 The Altars of Mount Caluary 5 A place in the way to the Sepulcher where they say that Christ laid downe his Crosse and where the Virgin Marie and Iohn the Enangelist stood while he was crucified E Here they shew a stone which they call Noli me tangere that is Touch me not because Christ appearing here to Marie Magdalen vsed those words 6 And in this place they say Marie Magdalen stood FFF Here is a retreat of certaine Chambers and Chappels vnder the keeping of the Latin or European Friers For they continually send two or three of their Friers to bee locked weekely within this Church for the performance of the Rites of their Religion whom they recall at the weekes end to their Monasterie in the Citie sending new in their place to attend that seruice And this retreat hath onely a doore to passe into the Church but none into the streete G The Chappell of Apparition so called because they say Christ there appeared to the Virgin Marie after his Resurrection H The pillar of whipping so called because they say Christ was bound to it when he was beaten with rods h This Altar they call the Altar of the holy Crosse. I A most narrow prison in which they say Christ was shut vp for a little time K The Chappell where they say that the Souldiers diuided Christs garments L Here we descended some fiftie staires into a caue vnder the earth which they haue made a Chappell and here they say the Empresse Helena found the Crosse of Christ and thereupon built this Chappell in which they say foure pillars many times make a sound of groaning and sighing and they shew the very place where the Crosse of Christ and where the Crosses of the two theeues were found N After Christ was beaten they say he was forced to sit here till they crowned his head with Thornes P The Chauncell of the Church p A hole in the pauement of this Chauncell which the Greekes hauing the Chauncell to keepe hold to be the middest of the World q This place lies open ouer head hauing the Sepulcher on the West side and two little Marble walles raised some two foote on the North and South sides within which wals the place is paued with Marble The walles are so high as a man cannot conueniently sit vpon them And in this place they vse to pray before they enter the Sepulcher r The outward Chappell or Porch of the Sepulcher as I may so terme it where the Angell is said to haue appeared to the women And therein lies a foure-square stone fitted to the little dore of the Sepulcher vpon which stone roled from the dore they say the Angell did sit after Christ was risen ss These be seats on both sides of this outward Chappell in which seates they vse to pray t In this Chappell so they call the Sepulcher it selfe and vnder the stone noted with blacke they say the body of Christ was laied And this stone is raised as high as an Altar and couered with Marble as all the walles bee The little dore by which they enter this Chappell or Sepulcher is scarse 3 foote high and a broad so as they enter it with difficulty bending downe their bodies as if they crept into a caue The very stone couering the Sepulcher or place where Christs body did lie is somewhat raised from the ground and hath seuen foote in length and some sixe in bredth This Sepulcher lyes vnder the first Globe of the Church as the Chauncell lies vnder the second and it lyes vnder the middle of that Globe neither hath the Church any window but the Globe hanging ouer the Sepulcher is open in the roofe and so giueth light to all the Church
And in the very Sepulcher the burning Lampes giue light besides that the dores lye open And because raine must needes fall from the open Globe the Sepulcher hath a couer borne vp with pillars of Marble and laid ouer with Lead to receiue the raine The Sepulcher within and without is beautified with marble and was cut out of a Rocke before the Church was built The Franciscan Friers are for the most part Italians but are vulgarly called Francks of the French who are in league with the Turkish Ottoman and they haue the priuiledge of singing their Masses in the Sepulcher not of free grant but because they are best able to pay for their priuiledges yet it is free for any of the Christian Sects to come into the Sepulcher They say that from the situation of this Sepulcher the custome came among Christians to be buried with their feet face towards the East as expecting the resurrection V A Chappell kept by the Sect of the Gofti X The Sepulchers of Ioseph of Arimathea and of Nicodemus Y The Chappell of the Iacobites Z The Chappell of the Abissines X The Chappell of the Armenians X X The Chappell of the Georgians Some write that this Church hath the forme of a Crosse and if the retreat or chambers of the Italian Friers with the Chappell of Aparition on the North side and the two Towers of the Belfrey on the South side be ioyntly considered with the Church which seeme rather-fastned thereunto then of the same building a superstitious man may faigne to himselfe the figure of a Crosse but shall reuer plainely demonstrate it to others Aboue the roofe of the Church on the outside are two faire Globes whereof the greater couered with leade lies ouer the Sepulcher and the lesse all made of stone is ouer the Chauncell And this greater Globe on the inside of the Church is beautified with engrauen Ceder trees and borlie vp with pillars of Marble and the lesse hath faire pictures of the foresaid rich painting shining like enameled worke The breadth of the Church vnder both Globes containes seuentie paces and the length 140 paces and in generall as well within as without it retaines only the shaddow of the old magnificence We entred the Church on Tuesday in the afternoone and were locked there in all the night following and almost all the next day to fulfill our deuotions But I formerly said that the Italian Friers haue chambers of retreat within the Church in which we did eate and rest at our pleasure Yet these chambers and the like retreats wherein the Priests of other Sects with their wiues children and family doe lodge and eate and performe the rites of their Religion haue not any one dore into the streete but all enter the Church and goe forth by the foresaid onely dore of the Church towards the South and the key of this dore is kept by the Turkes who open it at set times to admit strangers and once euery weeke to let the Friers returne to their Monasteries and to receiue new Friers into the Church which are sent from thence to performe the feuerall rites of Religion And this dore hath a grate or little window at which the inclosed Friers may talke with their friends without and receiue meate sent them from their Monasteries Nine sundry Sects of Christians haue their Monasteries within this City by whom the great Turke and his officers haue great profit and the Turkes them selues repute all the monuments and places holy which Christ in his life frequented but this monument of his death and other like they despise and keepe them onely for their profit From the said Monasteries Friers are weekely sent to performe their seuerall rites and at the weekes end they are recalled to the Monasteries and new sent in their place which custome I thinke they take from the Iewes For when Dauid diuided the twentie foure Families of the sonnes of Aaron into twentie foure courses that each of them might one after the other in due order performe the holy offices in the Temple Iosephus writes that these courses or Families in order one after the other liued in the Temple from Sabbath to Sabbath to performe those duties Of these nine Christian Sects each hath priuiledges to keepe this or that monument within the Citie and in the field in which places they performe the rites of their Religion And according to the number of the Sects they maintaine nine Lampes continually burning in the foresaid common Church vpon the stone of Vnction as many vpon the Sepulcher and as many vpon Mount Caluarie The nine Sects are thus called Franks namely the Italians Georgians Greekes Sorians Costi Abissines Armenians Nestorians and Maronites The Religion of the Frankes namely Papists is so well knowne as I will omit it here and referre it to his due place I will onely say that they haue the keeping of the Sepulcher the Chappell of A parition and therein of the pillar of whipping and of one Altar vpon Mount Caluarie for the performance of their rites The Georgians are a warlike Nation inhabiting Media and the Caspian Mountaines and haue their name of Saint George whom they haue chosen their protecting Saint They haue a King and making warre valiantly sometimes vpon the Turkes sometimes vpon the Persians could neuer bee conquered by either Yea if they bee oppressed by either they easily finde helpe from the other out of their mutuall hatred Therfore they pay no tribute to the Turkes but by singular priuiledge freely enter into Ierusalem armed and with banner displaied Neither dare the Turkes offer them the least iniurie lest when they returne home they should reuenge it vpon the Turkes lying neare them Their very women are warlike like the Amazons and carrying bowes shew valour both in countenance and behauiour The men weare long haire on their heads and beards saue that they all are shauen like Clerkes vpon the Crowne of the head the Lay-men in a foure-square the Priests in a round forme They expresly follow the Religion Rites and Ceremonies of the Greekes and in their Diuine seruice vse the Greeke tongue otherwise speaking their owne language as I thinke Caldean These in the Church of Ierusalem haue the keeping of Mount Caluary and the Altar there built ouer the place where they say the Crosse of Christ stood and in the Citie they keepe the house of the High Priest Annas Of the Greekes Religion I must speake at large in his due place Now I will onely say that in the Church they keepe the Chauncell and therein shew a hole in the pauement compassed with Marble which they say is the very middle point of the world Against which opinion I argued with them and obiected that the earth is round and that in a Globe the center is in the middest all centers in the outside being but imaginarie and to be placed wheresoeuer the measurer will Also that in measuring after their manner the
liued in the Church and that shee would not refuse any opportunity to goe backe into Spaine but otherwise would die there thereby thought to merit much of God Neither doe I thinke shee lost the hope of this vaine merit since it was not easie to find a man who would carry an old woman and beare her charges so long a iourney The stone of vnction in the Church is common to all the nine Christian sects neither doe the Keepers of any other monuments refuse any Christian to enter into them but onely by priuiledge keepe their Altars priuate to themselues Most of the sects haue their Monasteries in the City and as I formerly said each of them hath the priuiledge to keepe some monuments as well within as without the wals But some of the sects only come to Ierusalem at solemne feasts and dwelling neere the City easily maintaine a Friar or two to keepe their monuments and so are freed from the necessity of building a monastery in the City Vpon Wednesday the twelfth of Iune towards euening the Turkes did open the Church to let vs out and each of vs Lay-men gaue the chiefe Turke thirty meidines and the Doore-keeper twenty of free gift and for the waxe candles burnt the night before in the Church each gaue sixty meidines to one of our Italian Friars This done we returned to the Monastery where we lodged with great ioy that we were presently to goe backe to Ioppa I formerly said that the Franciscan Friars with whom we lodged were of Europe whether at three yeeres end they were to be recalled and some fifty new Friars to be sent hither in their place which still each third yeere vse to be changed And these Friars are called the Family of Frankes for the great Turke permits them as French to liue there and forbids the comming of any Spanish or Roman Friars yet are they for the most part of Sicily Naples or Rome but denying their Countrey affirme that they are Venetians and if they were knowne to be subiects to Spaine or Rome they should incurre great danger Of them some few are indeed Venetians and at this time some two were Frenchmen All these liue of the aimes of the Merchants in the East of their Religion who for the most part are Italians and especially Venetians yet hath the Monastery also some rents of Lands giuen to it of old in Sicily and in Spaine and from thence they bring with them euery third yeere at their first arriuall a present of great value to the Turkish Ottoman I said formerly that of old the Venetians yeerly sent a gally to carry Pilgrimes to the Holy Land till the Christians were so oppressed by exactions of the Turkes as they rarely vndertooke that iourney and so the Venetians also left that custome From that time this Family of Frankes so these Friars are called vseth to passe in a Venetian ship to Cyprus and from thence to Ioppa in the Holy Land hiring there a Graecian barke to that purpose and in like sort the old Family vpon the arriuall of the new returnes into Italy And as soone as this family arriueth they disperce themselues the greater part abiding at Ierusalem and Bethlehem and some single men or couples being sent to doe the office of Priests at Cayro or Babylon in Egypt at Haleppo in Asia where most part of their Merchants reside and at Scanderona of old by all and still by Christians called Alexandretta These Friars thus dispersed are not onely maintained by the Merchants to whom the are sent but they also send from them large almes to the rest at Ierusalem and they often change places that all may equally beare these burthens We being now to take our iourney from Ierusalem many Christians and Iewes brought vs diuers toies to buy and carry with vs being of no worth saue onely that they were far fetcht namely beades for Papists to number their praiers and also crosses both made of the earth whereof they say Adam was formed or of the Oliue trees of Mount Oliuet or of Terebinth vnder one of which trees they say the Virgin Mary rested when shee carried Christ an Infant to be presented in the Temple and round stones called Cornioli of yellow colour and others of white called the Sea-water of India Also girdles of the Virgin Mary glistering stones of little price as all the rest are Among which they attribute to the stone of Indea the vertue to prouoke vrine to the Eagle stone called Aquilina the vertue to expell poyson to facilitate the birth of children to heale the falling sicknesse to restore woemens milke and so to diuers stones diuers and incredible vertues Besides our Franciscan Friars gaue each to his friend and the Guardian to vs all Agnos Dei Dust and little stones taken from the foresaid monuments for a great treasure to be carried to our friends at home Moreouer they gaue to each of vs freely and vnasked as it seemes of custome as well to vs Lay-men as to the Friars a testimony vnder the seale of the Monastery that we had beene at Ierusalem and for better credit they expressed therein some markable signes of our faces and bodies Now there remained nothing but the Epilogue of the Comedy that we should make some fit present to the Guardian of the Monastery in satisfaction for our diet and the curtesie of the Friars towards vs which my selfe and my brother thought very fit to be done but two of the Friars our consorts either wanting money or vsed to eate of free cost did not onely refuse to giue any thing but perswaded the French Lay-men to ioine with them in deniall thereof The third Friar our consort and for his experience vsed by the other as a conductor hearing this did vehemently reproue them vsing these words in French Que voules vous doncques payer en blanche that is what will you then pay them in white which phrase they vse when a man requites a curtesie in words or faire written promises not really They on the other side no lesse angry answered that it was vnfit and irreligious for Friars to extort gifts from Christian Pilgrimes My selfe and my brother laughed to our selues hearing this difference for we found now and had often heard that these Friars were most deate Hosts and that as they in England who referre their payment to pleasure are alwaies ouer-paid so these Friars asking nothing for diet yet vnder the title of gift or almes expect more then any the most greedy Host could demand yet lest we should prouoke them either to hinder our departure or to doe vs any shrewd turne as they most easily might doe yea left they should surmise my selfe and my brother to be authours or partners of this conspiracy I perswaded the French Lay-men our consorts that howsoeuer the Friars still remained obstinate to giue nothing yet we foure should present the Guardian some sixe zechines This effected the Guardian dismissed vs for
Damascus and Haleppo yet the City of Tripoli still yeelds foure hundred thousand crownes yeerely to the Great Turke It may seeme incredible but it is most certaine that here and throughout Syria they haue sheepe of such bignes as the very tailes of them hanging in many wreathes to the ground doe weigh twenty fiue pounds and many times thirty three pounds A Christian who vseth to entertaine the French did very well intreat vs here and when I did see a bed made for me and my brother with cleane sheetes I could scarcely containe my selfe from going to bed before supper because I had neuer lien in naked bed since I came from Venice to this day hauing alwaies slept by sea and land in my doublet with linnen breeches and stockings vpon a mattresse and betweene couerlets or quilts with my breeches vnder my head But after supper all this ioy vanished by an euent least expected For in this part of Asia great store of cotten growes as it were vpon stalkes like Cabbage as I formerly said in my iourney from Ioppa to Ierusalem and these sheetes being made thereof did so increase the perpetuall heat of this Countrey now most vnsupportable in the summer time as I was forced to leape out of my bed and sleepe as I had formerly done My Host told me a strange thing namely that in Alexandria of AEgypt seated vpon one of the mouthes of the Riuer Nilus there was a Doue-cote that also at Cairo or Babylon farre within the Land of AEgypt there was another Doue-cote and because it much concernes the Merchants to haue speedy newes of any commodity arriuing he assured mee that they vsed to tie letters about the neckes of the Doues at Alexandria and so to let them loose which Doues hauing formerly bred in the Doue-cote at Cayro did flie thither most swiftly and the Keeper of them there taking the Letters they brought vsed to deliuer them to the Merchants This I beleeued not till I came to Haeleppo and telling it for a fable to the English Merchants there they seriously affirmed the same to be true Moreouer the Host of Tripoli told me newes from Constantinople namely that the Greekes had burnt great part of the City which he thought to be false and onely inuented to oppresse them in other parts and that the Ianizaries had raised a great tumult against the Subasha of the City who vsed great seuerity towards them by restraining them from drinking wine and from keeping harlots and that some one hundred of these seditious Ianizaries were drowned in the Heuen and the rest were daily sought out to be punished Moreouer that Halil Basha the Admirall of Turkey was parted from Constantinople with sixty Gallies hauing taken many Greeke and Armenian Christians by force to row in his Gallies besides that for want of Marriners he had left there twenty Gallies which were prepared to keepe that narrow sea Finally that the Great Turke was presently to goe with his Army into Hungary but was not yet departed from the City Now the French-men our consorts went aboard a ship of Marsiles to returne into France But my selfe and my brother being to goe by Land to Haleppo agreed to giue our Muccaro nine piastri for two Asses to ride vpon and their meate and for three tributes called cafarri which he was to pay for vs by the way comming to some twenty meidines They call him Muccaro who lets out Mules Asses or Horses and they call him Malem who conducts the Merchants goods Moreouer we were forced to giue a suger-loafe to the value of a Zechine to the Gouernour of the City and a Piastro to the Scribe or Clerke of the City for the priuiledge to goe without a Ianizare to conduct vs so they pretended omitting no occasions to extort from Christians But we couenanted not to pay the nine piastri to our Muccaro till our iourney was ended onely giuing one piastro into his hands for earnest and pretending that we would pay the rest at Haleppo where we were to receiue money left they thinking that we had store of crowns with vs should practise any treason or oppression against vs. This Piastro we gaue him in hand to buy meat for his beasts and the other eight we paid after at Haleppo and besides gaue him of free gift a zechine for his faithfull seruice to vs by the way We were to take our iourney with the Carauan going from Tripoli to Haleppo The Turkes call a Carauan the company of Merchants passengers and driuers of loaded Camels keeping together for safety against Theeues and vsing to lodge in the open field For in Turkey they make iourneies in great troopes neither did I euer see any ride alone but onely a horseman of the Armie and that very rarely Vpon Saturday the two and twentie of Iune we went out of Tripoli at the North Gate and passed ouer a Bridge of the foresaid Brooke and from eight of the clocke till Noone we passed along the Sea-shoare and ouer high Mountaines then ouer an vntilled Plaine seeing not one Village nor so much as the least house by the way Then at last comming to a little shade of Fig-trees we rested there the heate of the day and fed vpon such victuals as we had while our Muccaro and the rest gaue meate to their beasts At three of the clock in the after-noone we went forward in the like way and late in the euening we came to a Village neere which we lodged in the open field in a pleasant plot of grasse neere the banke of a Riuer planted with some trees Vpon Sunday wee rose early and for two howers space passed a Promontory of the Sea then turning towards the Land wee passed through wilde and vntilled Hilles and plaine fields and at Noone we rested vnder the shaddow of some Brambles refreshing our selues with meate and sleepe and giuing meate to our Asses At three in the afternoone wee went forward and passed by the Castle Huss in which some say Iob dwelt and which they say was possessed by the French while they had the Kingdome of Ierusalem Also we passed by a Monastery of Saint George then possessed by Christian Friers and seated in a pleasant Valley yeelding trees of Figs and Oliues And towards euening we incamped as I may terme it in the open field at the foot of a high Mountaine They say Iob did of old possesse this Territorie and that not farre hence in the way leading to Damascus there is a Citie now called Hemps and of old called Huss which the Christian Inhabitants to this day call the Citie of Iob and the Valley not far distant the Valley of Huss and the Turkes haue built a Mosche or Church in this Citie which they thinke to be built vpon the very ruines of the house wherein Iob dwelt and that his body was carried from hence to Constantinople Others obiect that according to the Scriptures Iob could not dwell here because they write
landing and leauing vs there in a place altogether disinhabited From thence we asking the way of the Countrey people did with much trouble at last come to the Monastery Saint Maria Ogidietra vpon the fiue and twenty of this present after the new stile where the Friers till they may know the pleasure of your Excellency wil in no sort giue vs liberty to conuerse but in the meane time haue shut vs vp in a solitary garden house My iourney lies further to Constantinople for the affaires of the Lord Ambassadour of England there abiding Wherefore I humbly pray that your excellency will vouchsafe to haue fauourable respect of a poore stranger borne of a Nation well affected to that of your Excellency and that by your fauour licence may bee sent me freely to conuerse and to take my iourney to the City of Candia since my solitary liuing here all delay and many other things in this place are irksome vnto me Thus assuring my selfe that your Excellency will haue compassion of his seruant tired with many misfortunes by Sea and Land I beseech God for the increase of your honor and so humbly kisse your hands From San ' Maria Ogidietra this fiue and twenty of October after the new stile in the yeere 1596 Your Excellencies humble Seruant Fynes Moryson The Letters sent me in answere thus follow To the noble Gentlemen Master Fynes Moryson deare to vs as a brother NOble Sir deare to vs in place of a Brother By your Letters dated the fiue and twenty of this moneth after the new stile and directed to the Illustrious Lord Generall and by his Excellency sent to our Office we haue vnderstood your request and desirous to fauour you in this occasion with due respect to the publike health we haue sent you two Horsemen who shall guide you and your seruant hither where you shall be curteously receiued and shall not want the opportunity of a Barke to finish your iourney after we haue taken due order according to our Office for the preseruing of the publike health Therefore without conuersing with any man follow these guides wee haue sent you and come hither with a cheerefull heart as to Christians and friends But faile not to follow the order which we haue giuen to these guides whereof we doubt not and so tender our selues to you From Candia the twenty of October after the old stile in the yeere 1596 Bring with you the testimony of your health Yours in place of brethren the Prouisors for health This testimoniall aboue mentioned I tooke from the Venetian Consull who knew my disease free from all infection when I parted from Alexandretta fore knowing the necessity thereof The foresaid two horsemen being arriued which with great curtesie were sent to conduct me I parted from the Monastery to goe in their company to the City of Candia eight thirty miles distant being to passe almost the whole bredth of this Kingdome in the very middle part thereof The bredth of the Iland containes fiue and forty miles the length two hundred and thirty miles and the circuit as Ortelius writes fiue hundred twenty others say six hundred or seuen hundred miles the ancient and moderne writers reckoning diuersly This Iland is distant from the Cape of Otranto in Italy fiue hundred miles others write fiue hundred and thirty From Alexandria in AEgypt foure hundred and fifty miles others write fiue hundred from the next shoare of Affricke two hundred and fifty miles from Ioppa in Palestine six hundred and sixty miles others write six hundred and forty from Tripoli in Syria seuen hundred miles from the Iland Cyprus foure hundred miles from Venice 1500 miles and from Constantinople seuen hundred and twenty miles We beganne our iourney in the afternoone and as we rode our guide shewed vs not farre out of the high way the Monument famous for the loue of the Kings daughter Ariadne to Thesius called the Laberinth of Crete for so Candia was called of old and Saturne the first King thereof begat Radamanthus Minos and Sarpedon of Europa the daughter of Agenor as they write Also our guides told vs that not far out of the way to the city Candia there was a monument of the caue of Minos which the Candians call the sepulcher of Iupiter but my former aduersities had taken from me my wōted desire to see antiquities so as we kept the high way and passing that day by a City of the Iewes lodged that night at a Village not in any Inne but in the very Church vpon straw and our owne bedding being content with such victuals as our guides brought vs namely cheese fruites and good wine It is probable that if we had had free conuersation we might perhaps haue found good lodging in the Village yet did we iustly doubt thereof because we could buy no better meate nor get any prouender for our beasts The next day in the morning we set forward and came to a pleasant village where we dined in a faire Church but could get no meat for our horses except they would haue eaten pomegranates or like fruits The same day in the afternoone we came to the City of Candia where we staied at the gate till we knew the pleasure of the Prouisors for health They could not be ignorant that our sickenesse was free from all infection yet imagining as after I perceiued that we should be Merchants haue some rich lewels they sent vs to the Lazaretto where in a weekes space when their spies according to their manner had inquired after our state and found that there was no hope of gaine by our imaginary lewels and it then falling out that other Merchants being landed with goods were to be lodged in our chamber at last the Generall Sig r Nicolao Donato called Generall for his commanding in the warre and Prouisor of health by the said Office and chiefe inquisitor for Religion which Office is sparingly executed in the State of Venice yet being not the chiefe Commander of the Iland for Il Sig r Marc ' Antonio Venerio was then Liefetenant to the Duke of Venice in this Iland with limited authority as the Duke himselfe hath I say this generall Prouisour for the health sent vnto vs a Gentleman of that office Il Sig r Vicenzo Cornaero who vsed vs nobly and curteously and the Scriuano that is Clerke or Secretary of that office called Il Sig r Giouanni Papadapolo with authority to giue vs free conuersation These Gentlemen according to the custome such as the state of no passenger can be hidden from them caused ropes to be hanged acrosse our chamber and all things we had yea our very shirts to be seuerally taken out and hanged thereupon and so perfumed them with brimstone to our great anoyance though they well knew we had no infectious sicknesse which done they gaue vs freedome to goe into the City and wheresoeuer we would To the Scriuano I gaue a zechine desiring him to
Lawes and obedience due to his Maiesty The foure twentieth day his Lordship was aduertised that the Citizens of Lymrick had with their Priests entred into all the Churches of the City and there erecting Altars had vsed the Rites of the Romish Church The 25. day his Lordship wrote this letter to the Citizens of Waterford YOur letters of the three and twentieth of this instant came this day to my hands And hauing duely considered the contents of the same I find that they returne a double excuse of the courses you haue vsed first for your delay of time to proclaime the Kings most Excellent Maiesty according to such directions as was sent vnto you from the Earle of Ormond by a Counsellor of this State And the next for such disorders as were reported to bee committed by the publike breach of his Highnesse Lawes in matters of Religion To the which We returne you this answer following First albeit We would haue wished that you had had a more carefull regard to haue performed such directions as you receiued from to Noble a Peere of this Realme by so reuerent a messenger as you might assure your selues in such a matter durst not abuse you his Highnesse sole and vndoubted right concurring also with your owne knowledge and consciences yet We will not condemne you for that omission of the time seeing afterwards you did obey our directions in that behalfe and gaue so publike a testimony of your ioyful allowance and consent to his Maiesties Right and lawfull title proclaimed amongst you But as in this part you haue giuen vnto vs a kinde of contentment so in the last point Wee cannot forbeare to let you vnderstand the Iust mislike We doe conceiue that you being Citizens of wisdome and good experience and the Lawes of the Realme continuing in force would be drawne either by your Priests or any like practises to commit any publike breach of the Lawes and the rather because out of that vnspotted duty which you professe you haue euer carried to the Crowne you would not in reason conceiue that the example of your offence in such a cause and in so great and populous a City could not but in it selfe be very dangerous in these disordered times wherein examples doe carry men astray which in discharge of Our duty to the Kings Highnesse Wee may not suffer And therefore haue resolued to make Our speedy repaire vnto those parts for none other purpose but to establish his Maiesties Lawes that no publike nor contemptious breach be made of them wherein We wish you had bin more wary contenting your selues with the long and fauourable tolleration you enioyed during the late Queens raigne rather then in this sort to haue prescribed Lawes to your selues whereby in wisdome you may perceiue how much you haue preiudiced the very obtaining of your owne desire by the courses you haue taken as we are credibly informed And yet because it may be that the reports of your behauiour haue beene made more hainous then there is cause Wee are well pleased to suspend Our giuing credit to such particular informations vntill vpon due examination the truth may appeare wherein We hope and shall be glad that you can acquit your selues so of these imputations now laid vpon you or otherwise that you conforme your selues now at last in such sort to the obedience you owe to his Maiesty and his Lawes as We be not inforced to take seuere notice of your contrary actions The same day his Lordship was aduertised from the Mayor of Galloway that howsoeuer he found no seditious inclination in the Citizens yet to preuent disorders in these mutinous times the Gouernor of the Fort had giuen him some of his souldiers to assist his authority whom he to that purpose had placed in the strongest Castles of the City The same day his Lordship receiued letters from the Mayor of Corke signifying that the thirteenth day of this moneth he had published in the City the Proclamation of the King with the greatest solemnity he could and complaining that the Souldiers in the Kings Fort offered many abuses to the Towne with offer from the Corporation to vndertake the safe keeping of that Fort for his Maiesty The 26 day his Lordship wrote to the Soueraigne of Wexford that whereas they excused their erecting of popish rites by the report they heard of his Maiesties being a Roman Catholike he could not but maruell at their simplicity to be seduced by lying Priests to such an opinion since it was apparant to the World that his Maiesty professed the true religion of the Gospell and euer with carefull sincerity maintained it in his Kingdome of Scotland charging him and those of Wexford vpon their Wexford to his Maiesty to desist from the disordered course they had taken in celebrating publikely the idolatrous Masse least hee at his comming vp into those parts should haue cause seuerely to punish their contempt shewed to his Maiesty and the lawes of his Kingdome The same day his Lordship was aduertised from the Commissioners of Mounst r that the Citizens of Corke grew daily more and more insolent defacing places of scripture written on the wals of the Church to the end they might wash and paint ouer the old Pictures and that one tearmed a Legat from the Pope with many Priests had gone in solemne procession hallowing the Church and singing Masse therein publikely the Townes-men hauing placed guards of armed men set at the Church dore and at the Porch yea burying their dead with all Papisticall Ceremonies and taking the Sacrament in like sort to spend their liues and goods in desence of the Romish Religion and thereupon taking boldnes to offer wrong to the English and to practice the getting of the Kings Fort into their hands yea refusing to sell any thing to the English for the new mixed money and not suffering the Kings victuals to be issued out of the store till they had assurance that the Souldiers should be sent out of the liberties of Corke The 27 day his Lordship wrote to the Soueraigne of Clemmell commending him and the rest of that City that they had proclaimed the King with great ioy and gladnesse but charging them vpon their vttermost perill to cease from the publike exercise of the Romish Religion which they of themselues had mutinously established The same day his Lordship wrote this following letter to the Soueraigne of Kilkenny AFter my hearty commendations I haue receiued your Letters of the 25 and 26 of this moneth and am glad to vnderstand thereby that you are somewhat conformable to my directions being willing to haue cause to interpret your actions to the best but though I meane not to search into your consciences yet I must needs take knowledge of the publike breach of his Maiesties Lawes and whereas you let me vnderstand that the Inhabitants are willing to withdraw themselues for their spirituall exercise to priuacy contented onely with the vse of the ruinous Abbey
further to command me by his letters signed with his Royall hands to cherish his good subiects and to suppresse the Rebellious the which difference of good and rebellions I am no otherwise to distinguish in you but by that obedience which I haue required and doe now require of you to his Maiesties Lawes and Royall pleasure And as in my duty to God and my King I should reioice to finde you in the number of those that I am bound to cherish and preserue So should I bee heartily sorry to finde you such as I must bee forced to correct or to ruine And although it be none of my purposes to enter into your consciences yet if the effects of your consciences be to disturbe the peace of this Kingdome to violate the Lawes thereof and by force to set vp your owne Religion It is my duty to vse the Kings power to suppresse such insolencies and therefore my purpose is to repaire my selfe to the Kings Citie whereof you are one of his Magistrates to see his peace and obedience maintained the which if both I and you and that Corporation doe not as our duty is intend we haue a King that is not onely able to call vs his poore seruants to an account but to reuenge the wrongs of the greatest Monarch of the World The same day his Lordship writ to the Maior of Corke this following letter AFter my heartie commendations I haue receiued two letters from you the one not signed with any hand the other signed by you the Maior and two of your Brethren and for the first concerning the stay you haue made of the Kings munition and Victuals I maruell greatly at your presumption to limit and take account what proportions the Commissioners authorised by his Maiesty thinke good to issue for his seruice and wish you in matters of so great consequence to be well aduised not doing any thing rashly nor consulting or deliberating after your fancies of things not belonging any way to your consideration but submitting your owne iudgements to be ruled by those placed in authoritie ouer you I meane Sir Charles Wilmot and Sir George Thorneton whose Commissions to gouerne that Prouince I haue lately by order from his Maiestie renewed For the answere of your second letter I referre my selfe to those I sent you by Master Mead which I thinke ere this time are come to your hands and as by them you shall more particularly perceiue so I assure you that I expect better satisfaction from you for the late insolent disorders committed or permitted by you in that Citie then by these I haue receiued charging you againe as formerly to desist from the violating of his Maiesties Lawes by publike celebration of the Masse set vp of your owne fancies without superiour authoritie In which if I finde you not conformable and obedient to my directions I must conceiue of your loyaltie and affection to his Maiesties seruice as I find by the effects testified in your publike actions and bee forced to take more seuere notice thereof then I willingly would in regard of the good opinion I haue heretofore had of your proceedings And for that point in your last letter touching the Fort of Halebolin whereof you desire to haue the keeping to the Kings vse I will deale plainely with you that since I find you so little able to gouerne the inhabitants of your Towne in due obedience to his Maiestie and his Lawes and so easily seduced by your Priests and Friers to the preiudice thereof and the hazard of your selues and haue alwaies found by experience the true integritie and forward resolution of the Kings souldiers to aduance his seruice till I shall see a better reformation of these your proceedings I must needes thinke them fitter then you to haue places of so great trust committed to their guard and custodie The same day his Lordship vnderstood by letters from the Maior of Corke that the Kings forces lying neere the Towne and their armed men of the Citie had proceeded to acts of hostilitie some hauing beene killed on both sides whereof they craued reliefe from his Lordship making their contumacy against the Commissioners authoritie a priuate quarrell to the person of one of them as being their enemie and seeking their vtter ruine Likewise the Bishop of Corke aduertised that a most seditious sermon was preached at Corke by a Popish Priest teaching that he could not be a lawfull King who was not placed by the Pope and sworne to maintaine the Roman Religion Also that one of his men going to the Port of the Towne was hurt by one of the guard who wished he had the Traytor his Master there with threats of death to him Lastly that the Citizens by resolution taken in a publike Counsell with their Priests had written to all the Townes and Cities to assist them in the defence of the Catholike faith and had not onely staied the Kings munition but laid it vp in their owne store-houses and imprisoned the clarke who kept it The third of May his Lordship being on the way towards Mounster was aduertised from Iustice Synot that the Citizens of Wexford had conformed themselues to his Lordships pleasure had redeliuered the Churches to the hands of the English Ministers The fourth of May his Lordship in camped at Gracedea neere the Citie of Waterford and summoned the Maior and his brethren to open their Ports and to receiue him and the Kings Forces The same day his Lordship wrote this following letter to the Maior of Corke For the dispatch of your messenger and not to omit any thing that heth in mee to make you vnderstand your dutifull obedience to his Maiesty and the great errors and insolent demenor you haue of selfe will or malice entred into I am content to write vnto you tho I know not well in what sort to write for by your courses I cannot take you for subiects and out of my desire to interpret your actions to the best I could wish not to haue cause to repute you Rebels To deale plainely with you for any thing that you selues informe or I can otherwise vnderstand I see not that Sir Charles Willmot hath done but as in his duty hee was tied to doe but I am presently drawing downe to the City of Corke and hauing reserued one care for any your iust complaints will iudge of your proceedings as I shall finde them I haue let you vnderstand my pleasure by my letters one sent by Master Meade which if hee haue not deliuered he is more to blame and I assure my selfe some of them came to your hands and in all I haue charged you vpon your alleagance as againe by these I do to desist from publike breach of his Maiesties Lawes in the celebration of the Masse prohibited by the same and to yeeld due obedience to his Magistrates and especially vpon your extreamest perils not to presume to make any stay of his Maiesties victualls and munition left vpon
then bread The Florentines sparing but wonderful clenly Those of Lucca therein as in al things to keepe the golden meane The Tyberine peares and Martiolane cheeses are accounted dainties Those of Genoa to be of a most slender diet and no clenlines The Mantuans to feede on base pease Those of Ferraria to be in hospital Those of Paduoa to sup with an half-penny worth of fish The Venetians to spend little for meat Those of Sienna to keepe an honorable diet and to hold Kids flesh and fresh Cheeses for great dainties Those of Milan to haue a plentiful diet and to inuite appetite with sharpe things The Nouocomians to eat without end and drinke stoutly Those of Piemont to eate after the French manner and those of Ancona to liue most basely for their diet The women of Lucca are accounted honest and skilfull in Cookery Those of Sienna faire and well affected to Poets The Florentines delicate and good at the needle and matters of the Family The Pistoians deceiuers The Perusians delicately handed and delighting much in fishing The Nouocomians to blesse their husbands with the Rams horne The Romans to seeme religious The Cayetans to be painted lustful The Capuans proud excellent in nothing The Neapolitans delighted in flocks of maid seruants louers The Beneuentants to be of rude beauty The Picenes desirous to be obserued by their husbāds The Bononians to be somewhat browne coloured with a body full of iuyce and louing sighes and teares of their sutors The Ferrarians robbers of those they loue Those of Vrbino seeming of a rude nature but none being more gentle Those of Parma couetous and hard Those of Piemont euer begging Those of Genoa lecherous talkatiue faire bountifull to their Louers and alwaies adorned with sweete flowers Those of Sienna liseiate fin'alla fossa painted to the very graue The Venetians of a variable disposition very iealous and some of them giuing the vse of their bodies freely without reward but I should thinke there be few such for they pleasantly scoft'at our English women that they giue the fruit of loue to their louers for charity vulgarly per amor ' di Dio as they giue almes to beggers and affecting to haue yellow haire white skins and cherry cheekes all by art and to haue short legs And of the Venetian most famous Curtizans it is prouerbially said Son grasse di stracci bianche di calcina rosse di belito alte di zoccole They are fat with cloutes white with chalke red with painting and high with shooes In generall it is said of the Italian weomen Sono gazze ale porte Sante in Chiesa capren'i giardini Diauoli in casa Angeli instrada Sirene alla fenestra They are Magpyes at the doore Saints in the Church Goates in the garden Diuels in the house Angels in the streete and Syrens at the window Of Rome this verse is prouerbiall La corte Romana non vnol ' pecora senza lana Curia Romana non quaerit ouem sine lana The Court of Rome cannot abide To haue a sheepe with a shorne hide The old Romans by these letters S. P. Q. R. did signifie Senatum Populum Que Romanum the Senate and people of Rome and they being grauen vpon the gates of the City one did pleasantly thus interpret them Stultus Populus Quarit Romans That is Foolish people seeke Rome These verses also are prouerbiall Roma vale vidi satis est 〈◊〉 reuertar Cum Leno Macus scurra Cynedus ere Rome farewell I haue thee seene well for me And then I will returne againe to thee When Lecher Iester Ingle Bawdelle be Of Genoa it is said Mar ' senza 〈◊〉 montagne senza legni huomini senza fede Donne senza vergogna Mortbianchi Genoa superba That is The sea without fish Mountaines without wood Men without faith Weomen without shame white Mores Genoa the proud Sienna is said to abound with Fountaines Towers and faire women And they say in the vulgar tongue Sienna di sei cose piena Di Torre e di campane di scolarie di putane di becchie di Russiani Sienna is full of sixe things Towers and Bels Schollers and Whores Cuckolds and Bawdes They of Sienna haue a Prouerb That a stranger once drinking of the Fountaine Brando must needs stay there as surprized with the loue of the City But the Florentines in their reproch say Chi beue di Fonte Brando diuentamatto Who of the Fountaine Brando drinkes becomes a Foole. The Florentines are said stoutly to reuenge the breach of Faith and to be mindfull of benefits to haue Armes of Iron for their industry and the bodies of Antes for their spare dict It is vulgarly said of them Chi disse Fiorentino non disse burla che ditre cose ti fanno douitia A Die A Reuederci vuoitu nulla He that spake of the Florentine said well that they giue plenty of three things God keepe you Health till we meet againe Will you any thing with me It is vulgarly said I Bergomaschi hanno il parlar ' grosse il far ' sottile Those of Bergame are grosse in speech but subtill in action Againe Il bianco il nero cioe pepe cottone hanno fatto venetiaricca Blacke and white that is Pepper and Bumbast haue made Venice rich Againe Il Podesta di Senigallia comanda e poifa The Mayor of Senigallia commands and then doth it himselfe In reproch of Modena it is vulgarly said Mener l' Orsia Modena To leade Beares at Modena Againe Dala Marca Asinie Pedantifamosi The Marchians haue famous Asses and Schoolemasters And they say vulgarly that a great lie is Bugia Marchiana that is a Marchian lie As I hastily passed the vast Empire of the Turks and being ignorant of the vulgar languages I neuer heard any such Prouerbe neither think that the vnlearued Turks trouble their braines with these Laconicall sentences Onely among the Italians I heard this Prouerbe in their tongue In Cipro tre cose a buon ' Mercato si danno il Sale il Zuccaro e le putane In Cyprus three things are good cheape Salt Sugar and Whores In France they say prouerbially Qui feit Picard il feit la hart dit le Norman Pour pendre le Norman ' Couard dit le Picard who made a Picard made a rope saith the Norman To hang the coward Norman saith the Picard Againe Qui feit Francois ilseit curtois Qui feit Breton'il feit larron He that made a Frenchman made a curteous man He that made a Britan made a theefe The French in reproch to the Normans salute them with this counterfet or made word Fla-va-gou-la-men as if they should call him Flateur vanteur goula larron Menteur that is flatterer bragger glutton theefe lyer They vulgarly say Gascon testeverte Gascon green head as rash in anger Bourguignon Sale The salted Burgundian which reproch grew of a strange cruelty vsed by the Citizens of Aiguesmortes against a garrison of
place where they fable that Coryneus wrastled with Gogmagog and in this Towne was borne Sir Francis Drake Knight the cheefe glory of our Age for Nauigation who for two yeeres space did with continual victories as it were besiege the Gulfe of Mexico and in the yeere 15-- entring the straight of Magellan compassed the World in two yeeres and tenne moneths with many changes and hazards of Fortune The Towne Dortmouth is much frequented with Merchants and strong shippes for the commodity of the Hauen fortified with two Castles The City Excester called Isen by Ptolomy and of olde called Monketon of the Monkes is the cheefe City of the County and the seate of the Bishop 3 Dorsetshire was of old inhabited by the Durotriges The Towne Weymouth hath a Castle built by Henry the eighth to fortifie the Hauen Dorchester is the cheefe towne of the County but neither great nor faire 4 Sommersetshire was of old inhabited by the Netherlanders and is a large and rich County happy in the fruitfull soyle rich Pastures multitude of Inhabitants and commodity of Hauens The chiefe Towne Bridgewater hath the name of the Bridge and the water In the Iland Auallon so called in the Britans tongue of the Apples which the Latins cals Glasconia flourished the Monastery Glastenbury of great antiquity deriued from Ioseph of Arimathta Dunstan casting out the ancient Monkes brought thither the Benedictines of a later institution and himselfe was the first Abbot ouer a great multitude of Monkes indowed with Kingly reuenewes In the Church yard of this Monastery they say that the great worthy of the Britans Prince Arthur hath his Sepulcher The Episcopall little City called Wells of the Wells or Fountaines hath a stately Bishops Pallace The City Bathe is famous for the medicinall Baths whereof three Fountaines spring in the very City which are wholsome for bodies nummed with ill humours but are shut vp certaine howers of the day that no man should enter them till by their sluces they be purged of all filth The Bishop of Welles buying this City of Henry the first remoued his Episcopall seate thither yet still keeping the old name of Bishop of Welles and there built a new Cathedrall Church The City Bristowe is compassed with a double wall and hath so faire buildings as well publike as priuate houses as next to London and Yorke it is preferred to all other Cities of England 5 Wilshire was also inhabited by the Belgae or Netherlanders and lies all within land rich in all parts with pastures and corne Malmesbury is a faire Towne famous for the woollen clothes The Towne Wilton of old the cheefe of this County is now a little Village beautified with the stately Pallace of the Earles of Penbroke The City of Salisbury is made pleasant with waters running through the streetes and is beautified with a stately Cathedrall Church and the Colledge of the Deane and Prebends hauing rich Inhabitants in so pleasant a seate yet no way more famous then by hauing Iohn Iewell a late worthy Bishop borne there Some sixe miles from Salisbury is a place in the fields where huge stones are erected whereof some are eight and twenty foote high and seuen broade standing in three rowes after the forme of a crowne vppon which other stones are so laied acrosse as it seemes a worke hanging in the Ayre whereupon it is called Stoneheng vulgarly and is reputed among Miracles as placed there by Merlin there being scarce any stone for ordinary building in the Territory adioyning 6 Hamshire of old was inhabited within Land by the Belgae or Netherlanders and vppon the Sea coast by the Regni William the Norman Conquerour made here a Forrest for Deare destroying Towns and holy buildings for some thirty miles compasse which ground now well inhabited yet seruing for the same vse we call New-Forest Southampton a faire little City lies vpon the Sea Wintchester of old called Venta of the Belgae was a famous City in the time of the Romans and in these daies it is well inhabited watered with a pleasant Brooke and pleasantly seated and hath an olde Castle wherein there hanges against the wall a Table of a round forme vulgarly called Prince Arthurs round Table but Gamden thinkes it to haue been made long after his time It hath a Cathedrall Church and large Bishops Pallace and a famous Colledge founded for training vp young Schollers in learning whence many learned men haue been first sent to the Vniuersity and so into the Church and Commonwealth In the Towne or Port of Portsmouth lies a Garrison of souldiers to defend those parts from the incursions of the French by Sea 7 Barkshire was of old inhabited by the Atrebatij Newbery a famous Towne inriched by wollen clothes had his beginning of the ancient Towne Spina Windsore is famous by the Kings Castle neither can a Kings seate bee in a more pleasant situation which draweth the Kings often to retire thither and Edward the third kept at one time Iohn King of France and Dauid King of Scotland captiues in this Castle The same Edward the third built here a stately Church and dedicated it to the blessed Virgin Mary and to S. George the Capadocian and first instituted the order of Knights called of the Garter as an happy omen of victory in warre happily succeeding who weare vnder the left knee a watchet Garter buckled hauing this mot in the French tongue grauen in letters of gold Hony soit qui mal'y pense and the ceremonies of this order hee instituted to be kept in this Church 8 The County of Surry was of old inhabited by the Regni Otelands is beautified with the Kings very faire and pleasant house as Richmond is with the Kings stately Pallace 9 The County of Sussex of old inhabited by the Regni hath the faire City Chichesler and the Hauen Rhie knowne by being the most frequented passage into France 10 The County of Kent is rich in medows Pastures pleasant Groues and wonderfully aboundeth with Apples and Cherries It hath most frequent Townes and safe Harbours for ships and some vaines of Iron William the Norman Conquerour after the manner of the Romans instituted a Warden of the fiue Ports Hastings Douer Hith Rumney and Sandwiche to which Winchelsey and Rie the chiefe Hauens and other Townes are ioyned as members which haue great priuiledges because they are tied to serue in the warres and the Warden of them is alwaies one of the great Lords who within his iurisdiction hath in most things the authority of Admirall and other rights Detford Towne is well knowne where the Kings ships are built and repaired and there is a notable Armory or storehouse for the Kings Nauy Not farre from thence vpon the shore lie the broken ribs of the ship in which Sir Francis Drake sailed round about the World reserued for a monument of that great action Greenewich is beautified with the Kings Pallace Eltham another house of the Kings is not farre distant The Towne
Grauesend is a knowne Roade The City Rochester is the seate of a Bishop and hath a stately Cathedrall Church Canterbery is a very ancient City the seate of an Archbishop who in the Hierarchy of the Roman Bishop was stiled the Popes Legate but the Popes authority being banished out of England it was decreed in a Synod held the yeere 1534 that the Archbishops laying aside that title should be called the Primates and Metrapolitanes of all England Before the Rode of Margat lie the dangerous shelfes or flats of sand whereof the greatest is called Goodwin sand Douer is a Port of old very commodious but now lesse safe onely it is more famous for the short cut to Callis in France The Towne Rumney one of the fiue Portes in our Grand-fathers time lay close vpon the Sea but now is almost two miles distant from the same 11 Glocestershire was of old inhabited by the Dobuni William of Malmesbury writes that this County is so fertile in Corne and fruites as in some places it yeelds a hundreth measures of graine for one sowed but Camden affirmes this to bee false The same Writer affirmes that the very high waies are full of Appell trees not planted but growing by the nature of the soyle and that the fruits so growing are better then others planted both in beauty taste and lasting being to be kept a whole yeere from rotting He adds that it yeelded in his time plenty of Vines abounding with Grapes of a pleasant taste so as the wines made thereof were not sharpe but almost as pleasant as the Fench wines which Camden thinkes probable there being many places still called Vineyards and attributes it rather to the Inhabitants slothfulnesse then to the fault of the Ayre or soyle that it yeeldes not wine at this day Tewkesbury is a large and faire Towne hauing three Bridges ouer three Riuers and being famous for making of woollen cloth for excellent mustard and a faire Monastery in which the Earles of Glocester haue their Sepulchers The City of Glocester is the cheefe of the County through which the Seuerne runnes and here are the famous Hils of Cotswold vpon which great flockes of sheepe doe feede yeelding most white wooll much esteemed of all Nations Circester is an ancient City the largenesse whereof in old time appeares by the ruines of the wals The Riuer Onse springeth in this County which after yeeldes the name to the famous Riuer Thames falling into it 12 Oxfordshire also was inhabited by the Dobuni a fertile County the plaines whereof are bewtified with meadowes and groues the hils with woods and not onely it abounds with corne but with all manner of cattle and game for hunting and hawking and with many Riuers full of fish Woodstocke Towne is famous for the Kings House and large Parke compassed with a stone wall which is said to haue been the first Parke in England but our Progenitors were so delighted with hunting as the Parkes are now growne infinite in number and are thought to containe more fallow Deere then all the Christian World besides Histories affirme that Henry the second for his Mistris Rosamond of the Cliffords house did build in his house here a labyrinth vnpassable by any without a threed to guide them but no ruines thereof now remaine The Towne itselfe hath nothing to boast but that Ieffry Chancer the English Homer was borne there Godstowe of old a Nunnery is not farre distant where Rosamond was buried Oxford is a famous Vniuersity giuing the name to the County and was so called of the Foorde for Oxen or of the Foorde and the Riuer Onse 13 Buckinghamshire was of old inhabited by the Cattienchiani which Camden thinks to be the Cassei and it hath a large and pleasant towne called Ailsbury which giues the name to the Valley adioyning The city Buckingham is the chiefe of the County and the Towne of Stonystratford is well knowne for the faire Innes and stately Bridge of stone 14 Bedfordshire had the same old inhabitants and hath the name of Bedford the chiefe Towne 15 Hertfordshire had the same old inhabitants and the chiefe Towne is Hertford In this County is the stately house Thibaulds for building Gardens and Walks Saint Albons is a pleasant Towne full of faire Innes 16 Midlesex County was of old inhabited by the Trinobants called Mercij in the time of the Saxon Kings In this County is the Kings stately pallace Hamptencourt hauing many Courtyards compassed with sumptuous buildings London the seate of the Brittans Empire and the Chamber of the Kings of England is so famous as it needes not bee praysed It hath Colledges for the studie of the municiple Lawes wherein liue many young Gentlemen Students of the same The little citie Westminster of old more then a mile distant is now by faire buildings ioyned to London and is famous for the Church wherein the Kings and Nobles haue stately Sepulchers and for the Courts of Iustice at Westminster Hall where the Parliaments are extraordinarily held and ordinarily the Chancerie Kings Bench with like Courts Also it hath the Kings stately Pallace called Whitehall to which is ioyned the Parke and house of Saint Iames. The Citie of London hath the sumptuous Church of Saint Paul beautified with rich Sepulchers and the Burse or Exchange a stately house built for the meeting of Merchants a very sumptuous and wonderfull Bridge built ouer the Thames rich shops of Gold-smiths in Cheapeside and innumerable statelie Pallaces whereof great part lye scattered in vnfrequented lanes 17 Essex County had of old the same inhabitants and it is a large Teritorie yeelding much Corne and Saffron enriched by the Ocean and with pleasant Riuers for fishing with Groues and many other pleasures It hath a large Forrest for hunting called Waltham Forrest Chensford is a large and faire Towne neere which is New-Hall the stately Pallace of the Rateliffes Earles of Sussex Colchester is a faire City pleasantly seated well inhabited and beautified with fifteene Churches which greatly flourished in the time of the Romans Harewich is a safe Hauen for ships Saffron Walden is a faire Towne the fields whereof yeeld plenty of Saffron whereof it hath part of the name 18 The County of Suffolke was of old inhabited by the Iceni and it is large the soile fertile pleasant in groues and rich in pastures to fat Cattle where great quantity of Cheese is made and thence exported Saint Edmondsberry vulgarly called Berry is a faire Towne and so is Ipswich hauing stately built Churches and houses and a commodious Hauen 19 The County of Norfolke had of old the same Inhabitants and it is a large almost all Champion Countrey very rich and abounding with sheepe and especially with Conies fruitfull and most populous The City Norwich chiefe of the County deserues to be numbered among the chiefe Cities of England for the riches populousnesse beauty of the Houses and the faire building of the Churches Yarmouth is a most faire Towne fortified
by nature and diligent Art and hath a very faire Hauen Vpon the bay which Ptolomy names AEstuarium Metaris vulgarly called the Washes lieth the large Towne of Linne famous for the safety of the Hauen most easie to be entred for the concourse of Merchants and the faire buildings 20 Cambridgeshire had of old the same Inhabitants and consists all of open corne fields excepting some places yeelding Saffron and it giues excellent Barly of which steeped till it spring againe they make great quantity of Mault to brew Beere in such quantity as the Beere is much exported euen into forraigne parts and there highly esteemed Cambridge is a famous Vniuersity seated vpon the Riuer Grant by others called Came of which and the Bridge ouer the same it is called Cambridge The Northerne part of this County consists of Ilands greene and pleasant in Summer but all couered with water in the Winter whereof the cheefe called Ely giues the name to all the rest called as if they were but one Iland the I le of Ely the cheefe Towne whereof called also Ely is famous for being the seate of a Bishop 21 Hunting donshire had of old the same Inhabitants the cheefe Towne whereof is Huntingdon 22 Northamptonshire was of old inhabited by the Coritani and is a Countrey most painefully tilled and full of Inhabitants Northampton is the cheefe City large and walled Peterborow is the seate of a Bishop Neere Stamford is the stately Pallace Burleigh built by William the first Lord Burleigh 23 Leycestershire had of old the same Inhabitants a Champion Country and fruitfull in bearing Corne. In Lutterworth a little Towne of Trade Iohn Wickliffe was Pastor or Minister Leicester the cheefe City hath more antiquitie then beauty 24 Rutlandshire had of old the same Inhabitants and is the least County of England and had the name of the red Earth The Towne of Vppingham deserues no other mention then that it is the cheefe Towne of the County 25 Linconshire had of old the same inhabitants and is a very large County rich in Corne and Pastures and abounding with Fowle and Fish and all things necessary for foode The great Washes of Holland when the Sea flowes are couered with water but when it ebbes the ground is discouered to be passed but not without danger and with a good guide Lincolne the chief City was of old one of the most populous Cities of England and one that had greatest trade and hath a sumptuous Cathedral Church 26 Nottinghamslire had of old the same inhabitants the chiefe City whereof is Nottingham pleasantly seated In the Westerne part is the Wood called Shirewood feeding infinit numbers of Fallow and Red Deare whether the Kings of old were wont to retire for hunting 27 Darbyshire had of old the same inhabitants the chiefe towne whereof is Darby faire and well inhabited the Ayle whereof is for goodnesse prouerbially preferred before that kind of drinke in any other Towne The Westerne part hath high Mountaines called Peake yeelding Leade which they make into Sowes and stibium in his proper vaines is there found Likewise there Mil-stones are out out and there is the old Castle called the Castle in the Peake neare which is a great hole or caue in the Mountaine gaping wide and hauing many inward caues and this hole with reueuerence be it spoken is vulgarly called The Diuels ars at Peuke of which many fables are told and the place is accounted among the miracles of England The like fables are told of 〈◊〉 hole not farre distant very steepe and deepe 28 Warwickshire was of old inhabited by the Cornauij wherein is Couentry a large faire and walled Citie so called of the Couent of Monkes and at this day it is the fairest City within-land wherof the chiefe trade of old was making round caps of wooll but the same being now very little vsed the trade is decaied Warwick is the chiefe City of the County and neare the same vpon the hill Blacklow Peter of Gaueston was beheaded by the Lords of the Kingdome Not farre thence is a transparant and pleasant but little Wood and there be cleare Fountaines which place yeelds sweete solitude for the Muses and there they report that the famous worthy Guy of Warwick after many aduentures atchieued did first liue an Heremites life and was after death buried 29 Worcestershire had of old the same inhabitants which after in the time of Beda were called Wiccij either of wic signifying a corner or bay or of wyches signifying 〈◊〉 in the Saxons tongue And there are excellent salt-pits or Brookes and new fountaines of salt are daily found The Country is happy in the healthfull ayre tertility of soile and sweete Riuers but especially yeeldeth abundance of Peares of which they make Perry a counterfeit wine but cold and flatuous as all those kinds of drinke are Worcester the chiefe City of the County was built by the Romans and is compassed with a wall and hath the seate of a Bishop and a faire Cathedrall Church with the Monuments of Iohn King of England and Arthur Prince of Wales It is also beautified with many inhabitants rich trade of wollen cloth faire buildings and the number of Churches 30 Staffordshire had of old the same inhabitants and towards the South it hath pit-coales and some vaines of Iron but the greatest quantitie and best kind of pit-coales is in Nottinghamshire Stone is a Towne of Traffike Lichfeild is a large and faire City so called as the field of dead bodies and it is beautified with the seate of a Bishop his Pallace and the house of the Prebends My selfe passing that way did reade these Epitaphes in the Cathedrall Church The first of a Deane Sis testis Christe quod non iacet hic lapis iste Corpus vt ornetur sed spirittus vt memoretur O Christ me witnesse beare that this stone lies not here To grace the vile body but the soules memorie And another excellent Epitaph but superstitious and I know not whose Quisquis eris qui transieris sta perlege plora Sum quod eris fuer amque quod es pro me precor ora Who ere thou be that passest by stand reade and houle Such shalt thou be I was like thee pray for my soule Yet I remember not well whether these were two Epitaphes or onely one and for one man 31 Shropshire had of old the same inhabitants and was a fortified and manned frontyer against the Welsh then diuided from the English and their enemies and thereupon was named the Marches Ludlow is a Towne of more beauty then antiquity beautified with the Pallace of the King or rather of the Prince of Wales and there is a Counsell or Court of Iustice erected for Wales the borders not vnlike to the French Parliaments and instituted by Henry the eight It consists of the President of Wales there residing of a Secretary an Atturney a Solicitor and foure Iustices of the Counties of Wales and as many Counsellers as
Dancasler are well knowne but of all other Hallifax is most famous for the Priuiledges and the rare Law by which any one found in open theft is without delay beheaded and boasteth that Iohn de sacrobosco of the Holy Wood who writ of the Sphere was borne there Wakefield is a famous Towne for making Woollen cloth Pontfreit named of the broken bridge is a towne fairely built and hath a Castle as stately built as any can be named Neere the little Village Towton are the very Pharsalian fields of England which did neuer see in any other place so great Forces and so many Nobles in Armes as here in the yeere 1461 when in the ciuill warres the faction of Yorke in one battell killed fiue and thirty thousand of the Lancastrian faction Neere the Castle Knarshorow is the Fountaine called Droppingwell because the waters distill by drops from the rockes into which any wood being cast it hath been obserued that in short space it is couered with a stony rinde and hardens to a stone Rippen had a most flourishing Monastery where was the most famous needle of the Archbishop Wilfred It was a narrow hole by which the chastity of women was tried the chaste easily passing through in but others being detained and held fast I know not by what miracle or art Neare the little towne Barrobridge is a place where stand foure Pyramides the Trophces of the Romans but of 〈◊〉 workmanship Yorke the chiefe Citie of the Brigantes is the second of all England and the seate of an Archbishop The Emperour Constantius Chlorus died there and there begat his sonne Constantine the great of his first wife Helena whereof may be gathered how much this scare of the Emperours flourished in those daies By a Pall or Archbishops cloake sent from Pope Honorius it was made a Metropolitan Citie ouer twelue Bishops in England and al the Bishops of Scotland but some fiue hundred yeeres past all Scotland fell from this Metropolitan feare and it selfe hath so deuoured the next Bishoprickes as now it onely hath primacy ouer foure English Bishops of Durham of Chester of Carlile and the Bishop of the I le of man Henry the eight did here institute a Councell as he did also in Wales not vnlike the Parliaments of France to giue arbitrary iustice to the Northerne inhabitants consisting of a President Counsellors as many as the King shall please to appoint a Secretary c. Hull a well knowne Citie of trade lyes vpon the Riuer Humber where they make great gaine of the Iseland fish called Stockfish Vpon the very tongue called Spurnchead of the Promontory which Ptolomy calles Ocellum vulgarly called Holdernesse is a place famous by the landing of Henry the fourth Scarborrough is a famous Castle where in the sea is great fishing of Herrings 48 Richmondshire had of old the same inhabitants and the Mountaines plentifully yeeld leade pit-coales and some brasse vpon the tops whereof stones are found which haue the figures of shelfishes and other fishes of the neighboring sea Neare the Brookes Helbechs as infernal are great heards of Goates Fallow and Red-Deare and Harts notable for their greatnesse and the spreading of their hornes Richmond is the chiefe Citie of the County 49 The Bishoprick of Durham had of old the same inhabitants and the land is very gratefull to the plower striuing to passe his labour in fruitfulnesse It is pleasant in Meadowes Pastures and groues and yeelds great plenty of digged Coales called Sea-coales The Bishops were of old Counts Palatine and had their royall rightes so as Traytors goods sell to them not to the Kings Edward the first tooke away these priuiledges and Edward the sixth dissolued the Bishopricke till Queene Mary restored all to the Church which it inioies to this day but the Bishop in Queene Elizabeths time challenging the goods of the Earle of Westmerland rebelling the Parliament interposed the authority therof and for the time iudged those goods to be confiscated towards the Queenes charge in subduing those Rebels Durham is the chiefe City of that County 50 Lancashire had of old the same inhabitants and hath the title of a Palatinate Manchester an old towne faire and wel inhabited rich in the trade of making woollen cloth is beautified by the Market-place the Church and Colledge and the clothes called Manchester Cottons are vulgarly knowne Vpon the Sea-coast they power water vpon heapes of sand till it get saltnesse and then by seething it make white Salt There be some quicksands wherein footemen are in danger to be wrecked especially at the mouth of Cocarus Lancaster the chiefe Towne hath the name of the Riuer Lone The Dukes of this County obtained the Crowne of England and Henrie the seuenth Duke of Lancaster vnited this Dutchy to the Crowne instituting a Court of Officers to administer the same namely a Chauncelor of the Dutchy an Attorny a Receiuer a Clarke of the Court sixe Assistants a Pursuiuant two Auditors twenty three Receiuers and three ouerseers 51 Westmerland had of old the same inhabitants and Kendale the chiefe Towne well inhabited is famous for making of woollen cloth 52 Cumberland had of old the same inhabitants and hath mines of Brasse and vaines of siluer in all parts yeelding blacke leade vsed to draw black lines Carleile a very ancient City is the seate of a Bishop In this County still appeare the ruines of a wall which the Romans built to keepe out the Pictes from making incursions being so poore as they cared not to subdue them And the Emperike Surgeons that is of experience without learning of Scotland come yeerely to those fields of the borders to gather hearbs good to heale wounds and planted there by the bordering souldiers of the Romans the vertue of which herbs they wonderfully extoll 53 Northumberland was of old inhabited by the Ottadini and the inhabitants of our time now exercising themselues in warre against the Scots now resisting their incursions vpon these borders are very warlike and excellent light Horsemen In very many places this County yeelds great quantity of Sea coales Newcastle is a faire and rich City well fortified against the incursions of the bordering Scots whence aboundance of Sea coales is transported into many parts Barwicke is the last and best fortified Towne of all Britany in which a Garrison of Souldiers was maintained against the incursions of the Scots till the happy Raigne of Iames King of England and Scotland To describe breefly the Ilands of England In the narrow Sea into which the Seuerne fals are two little Ilands 1 Fatholme and 2 Stepholme and the 3 Iland Barry which gaue the name to the Lord Barry in Ireland There is also the 4 Iland Caldey and that of 5 Londay much more large hauing a little Towne of the same name and belonging to Deuonshire On the side vpon Pembrookeshire are the Ilands 6 Gresholme 7 Stockholme and 8 Scalmey yeelding grasse and wild thime Then Northward followes 9 Lymen called Ramsey by
to that of fifteene and a halfe and the Latitude extends also foure degrees from the Paralel of fifty foure degrees to that of fifty eight degrees In the Geographicall description I will follow Camden as formerly This famous Iland in the Virginian Sea is by olde Writers called Ierna Inuerna and Iris by the old Inhabitants Eryn by the old Britans Yuerdhen by the English at this day Ireland and by the Irish Bardes at this day Banno in which sence of the Irish word Auicen cals it the holy Iland besides Plutarch of old called it Ogigia and after him Isidore named it Scotia This Ireland according to the Inhabitants is deuided into two parts the wild Irish and the English Irish liuing in the English Pale but of the old Kingdomes fiue in number it is deuided into fiue parts 1 The fast is by the Irish called Mowne by the English Mounster and is subdeuided into sixe Counties of Kerry of Limricke of Corcke of Tipperary of the Holy Crosse and of Waterford to which the seuenth County of Desmond is now added The Gangaui a Scithean people comming into Spaine and from thence into Ireland inhabited the County of Kerry full of woody mountaines in which the Earles of Desmond had the dignity of Palatines hauing their House in Trailes a little Towne now almost vninhabited Not farre thence lies Saint Mary Wic vulgarly called Smerwicke where the Lord Arthur Gray being Lord Deputy happily ouerthrew the aiding troopes sent to the Earle of Desmond from the Pope and the King of Spaine On the South side of Kerry lies the County of Desmond of old inhabited by three kinds of people the Lucens being Spaniards the Velabri so called of their seate vpon the Sea waters or Marshes and the Iberns called the vpper Irish inhabiting about Beerehauen Baltimore two Hauens well known by the plentiful fishing of Herrings and the late inuasion of the Spaniards in the yeere 1601. Next to these is the County of Mec Carti More of Irish race whom as enemy to the Fitz-geralds Queene Elizabeth made Earle of Glencar in the yeere 1556. For of the Fitz-Geralds of the Family of the Earles of Kildare the Earles of Desmond descended who being by birth English and created Earles by King Edward the third became hatefull Rebels in our time The third County hath the name of the City Corke consisting almost all of one long streete but well knowne and frequented which is so compassed with rebellious neighbours as they of old not daring to marry their Daughters to them the custome grew and continues to this day that by mutuall marriages one with another all the Citizens are of kinne in some degree of Affinity Not farre thence is Yoghall hauing a safe Hauen neere which the Vicounts of Barry of English race are seated In the fourth County of Tipperary nothing is memorable but that it is a Palatinate The little Towne Holy-Cresse in the County of the same name hath many great priuiledges The sixth County hath the name of the City Limerike the seate of a Bishop wherein is a strong Castle built by King Iohn Not farre thence is Awue the seate of a Bishop and the lower Ossery giuing the title of an Earle to the Butlers and the Towne Thurles giuing them also the title of Vicount And there is Cassiles now a poore City but the seate of an Archbishoppe The seuenth County hath the name of the City Watersord which the Irish call Porthlargi of the commodious Hauen a rich and well inhabited City esteemed the second to Dublyn And because the Inhabitants long faithfully helped the English in subduing Ireland our Kings gaue them excessiue priuiledges but they rashly failing in their obedience at King Iames his comming to the Crowne could not in long time obtaine the confirmation of their old Charter 2 Lemster the second part of Ireland is fertile and yeelds plenty of Corne and hath a most temperate mild Aire being deuided into ten Counties of Catterlogh Kilkenny Wexford Dublyn Kildare the Kings County the Queenes County the Counties of Longford of Fernes and of Wickle The Cariondi of old inhabited Caterlogh or Carloo County and they also inhabited great part of Kilkenny of vpper Ossery and of Ormond which haue nothing memorable but the Earles of Ormond of the great Family of the Butlers inferiour to no Earle in Ireland not to speake of Fitz pairic Baron of vpper Ossery It is redicnious which some Irish who will be beleeued as men of credit report of Men in these parts yeerely turned into Wolues except the aboundance of melancholy humour transports them to imagine that they are so transformed Kilkenny giuing name to the second County is a pleasant Towne the chiefe of the Townes within Land memorable for the ciuility of the Inhabitants for the Husbandmens labour and the pleasant Orchards I passe ouer the walled Towne Thomastowne and the ancient City Rheban now a poore Village with a Castle yet of old giuing the title of Barronet I passe ouer the Village and strong Castle of Leighlin with the Countrey adioyning vsurped by the Sept of the Cauanaghs now surnamed Omores Also I omit Kosse of old a large City at this day of no moment The third County of Wexford called by the Irish County Reogh was of old inhabited by the Menappij where at the Towne called Banna the English made their first discent into Ireland and vpon that Coast are very dangerous flats in the Sea which they vulgarly call Grounds The City Weshford Weisford or Wexford is the cheefe of the County not great but deseruing praise for their faithfulnesse towards the English and frequently inhabited by Men of English race The Cauci a Seabordering Nation of Germany and the Menappij aforesaid of old inhabited the territories now possessed by the Omores and Ohirns Also they inhabited the fourth County of Kildare a fruitfull soyle hauing the cheese Towne of the same name greatlie honoured in the infancie of the Church by Saint Briget King Edward the second created the Giralds Earles of Kildare The Eblani of old inhabited the territory of Dublin the fifth County hauing a fertile soyle and rich pastures but wanting wood so as they burne Turffe or Seacoale brought out of England The City Dublyn called Diuelin by the English and Balacleigh as seated vpon hurdles by the Irish is the cheefe City of the Kingdome and seate of Iustice fairely built frequently inhabited and adorned with a strong Castle fifteene Churches an Episcopall seate and a faire Colledge an happy foundation of an Vniuersity laid in our Age and indowed with many priuiledges but the Hauen is barred and made lesse commodious by those hils of sands The adioyning Promontory Hoth-head giues the title of a Barron to the Family of Saint Laurence And towards the North lies Fengall a little Territory as it were the Garner of the Kingdome which is enuironed by the Sea and great Riuers and this situation hath defended it from the incursion of Rebels in former
breeches are open behind with the shirt hanging out that they may case themselues without helpe Among other Princes of Italy I did see Ferdinand the third Duke of Florence who did weare a cloke of English cloth with one little lace and breeches of Veluct without any ornament and stockings of leather and a leather scabbard to his sword and his Coach was lined with old greene Veluct and the Horses seemed taken out of the Plough The women in generall are delighted with mixed and light colours The women of Venice weare choppines or shoos three or foure hand-bredths high so as the lowest of them seeme higher then the tallest men and for this cause they cannot goe in the streetes without leaning vpon the shoulder of an old woman They haue another old woman to beare vp the traine of their gowne they are not attended with any man but onely with old women In other parts of Italy they weare lower shooes yet somewhat raised and are attended by old women but goe without any helpe of leading The women of Venice weare gownes leauing all the necke and brest bare and they are closed before with a lace so open as a man may see the linnen which they lap about their bodies to make them seeme fat the Italians most louing fat women They shew their naked necks and breasts and likewise their dugges bound vp and swelling with linnen and all made white by art They weare large falling bands and their haire is commonly yellow made so by the Sunne and art and they raise vp their haire on the forehead in two knotted hornes and deck their heads vncouered haire with flowers of silke and with pearle in great part counterfeit And they cast a black vaile from the head to the shoulders through which the nakednesse of their shoulders and neckes and breasts may easily be seene For this attire the women of Venice are prouerbially said to be Grande dilegni Grosse di straci rosse dibettito bianche di calcina that is tall with wood fat with ragges red with painting and white with chalke The women of Genoa are attired much after the French fashion and by reason of neighbourhood borrow diuers manners from France which is also to be vnderstood of other Cities lying vnder the French Alpes and they goe abroad either alone or attended by men not by women as in other parts yea by night and early in the morning to the Church which suspected fashions other Italians cannot endure They weare nets and blacke vailes couering there with their faces contrary to the French manner without which the poorest woman goes not abroad In generall the Women of Italy for diuers Cities haue some fashions differing from other most commonly but especially the wiues of shopkeepers weare gowns of silke and light stuffes yea wouen with gold and those close at the brest and necke with a standing collar and little ruffes close vp to the very chinne and shewing no part naked And Gentlewomen in generall weare gownes loose behind with a close collar hiding all nakednesse and with traines borne vp by waitingmaides and sometimes with open hanging sleeues The married women weare their heads bare or couered with a fine linnen coyfe and a hat and a vaile hanging downe from the hinder part of the head to the backe The vnmarried haue their heads bare with their haire knotted like snakes and tied with gold and siluer laces or else they are couered with a gold netted cawle and they weare also gold chaines The married women weare chaines of pearle about the head and necke which in some places are forbidden to Virgins and these pearles are many times especially at Venice counterfet and made of glasse but very beautifull to the eye Widdowes and Women that mourne couer all their head and shoulders with a blacke vaile and vpon the forehead they weare a shadow or bongrace and about their neckes a white vaile hanging downe before to their feete The Countrey wenches weare vpon their heads gold and siluer cawles or at least seeming such and straw hats and guilded girdles and for the rest as other women are delighted with light colours The City Virgins and especially Gentlewomen couer their heads face and backes with a Vaile that they may not be seene passing the streetes and in many places weare silke or linnen breeches vnder their gownes Also I haue seene honourable Women aswell married as Virgines ride by the high way in Princes traines apparrelled like Men in a doublet close to the body and large breeches open at the knees after the Spanish fashion both of carnation silke or satten and likewise riding astride like men vpon Horses or Muses but their heads were attired like Women with bare haires knotted or else couered with gold netted cawles and a hat with a feather And many times in the Cities as at Padua I haue seene Curtizans in plaine English whores in the time of shrouing apparrelled like men in carnation or light coloured doublets and breeches and so playing with the racket at Tennis with yong men at which time of shrouing the Women no lesse then Men and that honourable women in honourable company goe masked and apparrelled like men all the afternoone about the streetes euen from Christmasse holydaies to the first day in Lent The Women wearing Mens breeches haue them open all before and most part behind onely buttoned with gold or siluer buttons And the Curtizans make all the forepart of their gownes in like manner open to auoide wrinckling Lastly the Italians vse to tie themselues vpon a vow for recouery of health or like cause to weare certaine apparrell for a time or for life and if the vow be in repentance of sinne the colour is ash colour vulgarly Beretino which I haue seene some weare for long time constantly with purpose to weare them during life CHAP. II. Of the Turkes French English Scottish and Irish Apparrell THe Turks shaue their heads but only in the very crowne where they leaue a tuffr of haire and they doe not now as of old onely nourish the haire of the vpper lip but al the beard growing round They couer their head thus shaued with a close cap of Scarlet and aboue it weare some twelue or twenty elles of fine white cotton cloth wouen into a round globe which in their tongue is called a Tulbent and by some Tsalma neither do they euer vncouer their heads in honour to any man but salute by bending the body and laying their left hand on their right side This cap or this head as they call it is hollow and so admits aire being borne vp by little hoopes and so cooles the head yet being thicke keepes out the Sunne from piercing it and being of most fine linnen is much lighter then our hats All the Orders or degrees among the Turkes are knowne by the ornament of the head or by their heades as they speake The Azimoglanes weare Pyramidall caps like sugar-loues of a mingled colour
the Daughter and Heire to the sickely Duke to whom himselfe was next of kinne by the Fathers side and Heire And it was a common speech that the said sickely Duke had lately lent forty thousand Guldens to the King of Poland and that the Elector of Brandeburg had offered seuen Tunnes of gold to the King of Poland that his Grandchild might succeed in the Dukedome of Prussia but that it was flatly refused by the Senate of Poland so as it was diuersly thought according to mens diuers iudgements what would become of the Dukedome after the said sickly Dukes death some iudging that the King of Poland would keepe the Dukedome falling to him others that the powerfull Family of Brandeburg would extort the possession thereof by force of money or of armes I omit the military Orders of Knights in England France and Netherland to be mentioned in their due place Among the Germans I could not obserue any ordinary degree of Knights conferred in honour vpon such as deserue well in ciuill and warlike affaires such as the Kings of England giue to their Subiects with the title of Sir to distinguish them from inferiour Gentlemen But in our age we haue seene Master Arundell an English Gentlemen created Earle of the Empire for his acceptable seruices to the Emperour Christian Elector of Saxony deceased did institute a military Order of Knights like to the Teutonike Order saue that it is no Religious Order and he called it Die gulden geselschaft that is the Golden Fellowship by which bond hee tied his neerest friends to him And the badge of the Order was a Iewell hanging in a chaine of gold hauing on each side of the Iewell engrauen a Heart peirced with a Sword and a Shaft and vpon one side neere the Heart was the Image of Faith holding a Crucifix with these words grauen about the Heart Virtutis amore that is for loue of Vertue vpon the other side neere the Heart was the Image of Constancie holding an Anker with these words grauen about the Heart Qui perseuer at adfinem saluus erit that is He that perseueres to the end shall be saued Lastly about the circle of the Iewell these great letters were engrauen F. S. V that is Fide sed vide namely in English Trust but beware The Prouinces of the reformed Religion haue no Bishops but the reuenues of the Bishoprickes are either conucrted to godly vses or possessed by the Princes vnder the title of Administrators And in like manner the reuenues of Monasteries for the most part are emploied to maintaine Preachers and to other godly vses but in some places they still permit Monkes and Nunnes I meane persons liuing single but not tied with Papisticall vowes for the education of their children and the nourishing of the poore In each City and each Church of the City many Ministers or Preachers serue who haue no tythes but onely liue vpon Pensions commonly small and not much vnequall For Ministers commonly haue one or two hundreth Guldens and the Superintendants one or two thousand Guldens by the yeere besides wood for fier and Corne and some like necessaries for food These Superintendants are instead of Bishops to ouersee the Cleargy but are not distinguished in habite or title of dignity from the other Ministers yet to them as cheefe in vertue and learning as well the Ministers as all other degrees yeeld due reuerence and in all Ecclesiasticall couses they haue great authority But otherwise Germany hath many rich and potent Bishops of whom generall mention is made in the Chapter of Prouerbs and particularly in this Chapter much hath beene said of the three spirituall Electors The Husbandmen in Germany are not so base as the French and Italians or the slaues of other Kingdomes but much more miserable and poore then the English Husbandmen yet those of Prussia a fat and fertile Country come necrest to the English in riches and good fare The other being hired by Gentlemen to plough their grounds giue their seruices at low rates and pay so great rent to their Lords as they haue scarcely meanes to couer nakednes with poore clothes and to feed themselues with ill smelling coleworts and like meate In Morauia incorporated to Bohemia and lying betweene it and Polonia the husbandmen are meere slaues And at my being there I heard that the Barron of Promnetz hauing been lately in Italy did make free a slaue of his who was there a Potecary and gaue him a present Also I vnderstood by discourse that the Marquesse of Anspach in Germany hath many meere slaues for his husbandmen But all other in Germany are free howsoeuer without doubt they be greatly oppressed not only by the Gentry but also by the Church-men so as wee find in late histories that the Bawren or clownes in the yeare 1502 made a rebellion perhaps with the mind after the example of the Sweitzers to get liberty by the sword but yet pretending only reuenge vpon Bishops and Church-men prouerbially saying that they would not suffer them to draw breath And it is probable that the neighborhood of the Sweitzers who rooted out their Noblemen got liberty by the sword makes the Gentlemen of Germany lesse cruell towards the poore clownes For either vpon that cause or for the fertility of the Country no doubt the clownes in Sueuia and places neare Sweitzerland liue much better then in any other parts as likewise in places neere Denmarke and Poland admitting slaues generally the poore people are more oppressed then any where else through Germany In Bohemia the highest degree is that of Barons and the Gentlemen haue the same priuiledges with them all other in townes and fields are meere slaues excepting Cities immediately subiect to the Emperor as King of Bohemia where many are either emancipated for mony or find more clemency vnder the yoke of a German Prince For in lands belonging to the Barons and Gentlemen the King hath no tribute but all is subiect to the Lord with absolute power of life and death as likewise the King hath his lands and some thirty Cities in like sort subiect to him And howsoeuer the Gentlemen doe not commonly exercise this power against the people left the Germans should repute them tyrants yet with wonder I did heare at Prage that a Baron had lately hanged one of his slaues for stealing of a fish It is free for a Gentleman to hang any of his slaues for going into strange Countries without being made free if he can apprehend him Many times they giue them leaue to goe into forraigne parts to learne manuary arts but they call them home at pleasure and when they come back make them worke for the Lords behoofe They take their Daughters for mayd seruants and Sonnes for houshold seruants at pleasure And these poore slaues can leaue their children nothing by last Will and Testarnent but all their goods in life and at death belong to the Lords and they will find
by rents of lands woods customes at gates confiscations Fines goods left to the Prince as by shipwracks and Bastards dying without children by homages Pensions and like profits and all hereditary treasurers and the two generall Receiuers giue accompt in this court Phillip the bold gaue this court great authority but Iohn his sonne remoued the counsellers thereof to the office of Iustice in Ghant and left the court at Lile to register the Princes edicts and Priuiledges granted by him Fourthly the court called the Counsell of Flaunders which I said was remoued from Lile to Ghant and seems chiefe in dignity first instituted partly by litle litle to draw Flaunders from the iurisdiction of Paris in imitation of Brabant Hennault and Holland for which howsoeuer the Princes did homage to the Emperor yet they belonged not to the iurisdiction of the Empire homage and iurisdiction by nature and in themselues being much different But the chiefe cause of the institution was the long absence of Phillip the bold in France during the infirmity of the French King in whose time this court formerly kept in diuers places at the Princes pleasure was setled at Ghant and to this court are referred all things belonging to the Princes right and authority the controuersies of Coiners of the Church of the Prouince and of Cities among themselues and with others and appeales from Magistrates and ratifying the Princes pardons for crimes The Counsell consists of a President of a Knightly degree by vertue of his office eight Counsellors hauing yeerly stipends foure Commissaries hauing part of the profit by informations and for Assessors the Procurator the Aduocate of the Prince the Treasurer of the reuenues a Secretary and a Notary Besides these courts and this said Counsell Marchantius mentioneth a court of Iustice highest and without appeale ouer all Netherland instituted by Charles last Duke of Burgandy in the yeere 1473 at Mechlin as being in the Center of Netherland and it iudgeth after that is equall and good in imitation of the Parliament of Paris so as suiters needed not to follow the Earles Court And the Prince was chiefe head of this Counsell or in his absence the Chancellor he being not present the Bishop of Tornay with two Presidents ten Lay and nine Clergy Counsellors six Masters of Requests who were commanded to ride on horseback to the Senate clad in Purple But Mary the daughter of the said Charles fearing the French and Ciuill war commanded the ceasing of iudgement in this Court which Phillip her son restored and in the yeere 1493 reestablished that court at Mechlin but lesse and more weake as it still remaines And this shall suffice of the Magistrates belonging to the Princes affaires Others belong to the subiects in seuerall Countries and Cities Such are the Scabines and the Bailies Scabines are so called of a German word Schaffen that is to dispatch or of an Hebrew word as the Germans say These defend the rights and priuiledges of the people determine controuersies by the Statutes and municipall customes or for want of them by the written Law and are present when any are tortured and iudge capitall causes the pardoning whereof is rather permitted to the Prince then much vsed by him And these Magistrates are diuersly named in diuers places as Voegte Tutor Portmeister Officer of the Port or Hauen Lanthouder that is Keeper of the Land Kourcher that is chosen Lord and Burgermaster that is Master of the Citizens Vnder them are the Treasurers or Receiuers in each City and aswell they as the Scabines are chosen by the Commissaries of the Prince Next are the Baylies so called of a French word as Tutors and Keepers and they are diuersly called in diuers places namely Schuldheten as Iudges of debts and they differ from the Scabines in that the Scabines Iudge the Bailies execute their Iudgements and the Princes Edicts they haue stipend these are paid out of the Fines they are changed after one or two yeeres these continue long in Office lastly they respect the rights of the people these of the Prince In the Villages they haue Officers called 〈◊〉 who 〈◊〉 the Edicts of the Magistrate and warne Debters to make payment and vpon longer delay then is permitted by the Municipall Lawes sell their goods at the outery They haue a supreme Iudge of capitall causes whom they call Soueraigne Baily instituted in the yeere 1374 to apprehend murtherers and banished men and to put them to death or otherwise punish them with the assistance of two Gentlemen hauing fees or being Feodatory Clients to the Prince And to this Officer authority was lately giuen confirmed by the Emperor Charles the fifth to release banishment and for the eues and man slayers by chance or vpon their owne defence and like offenders vpon satisfaction made to the next Kinsman of the man-killer and to him that was robbed not onely to giue them safe conduct to passe for forty daies but also to pardon their crimes so as the Mulcts or Fines be gathered for the Prince not to his behoofe and the Counsell of Flanders approue the confessions of the offender to be true But in case the Magistrate of the place where the offender dwelt require him to be there tried it cannot be withstood And this Office is of such dignity as Knights for long time haue executed the same Many Tributes were of old granted to the Prince as perpetuall Tributes of the Fields of Corne Oates Cheese and Larde which things for foode haue long time beene redeemed with money the price being yeerely set diuersly by the Counsell of accounts seated at Lile And no doubt through troubles and ciuill warres from the beginning to this day all like burthens are greatly increased both in number and measure which may more easily bee coniectured by that which shal be said of this subiect in the discourse of the vnited Prouinces Flanders is most ruled by municipall Lawes and customes of Townes and Cities and for want of them by the Ciuill Lawes The Lawes of Flanders forbid any man to giue in Legacies by his last Will and Testament more then the thirds of his goods wherein are comprehended Lands in Fee or that any stranger should beare the office of Magistracy yet strangers may there inherite their Kinsmens goods contrary to the custome of France England and Scotland where the Kings haue the goods of all strangers dying intestate and hauing there no children In Flanders no man is depriued of his mothers inheritance for bastardy no not the children of a noble woman being a concubine except some municipall Statute made by the Princes doe in some places preiudice them The Citizens of Curtrae about the yeere 1557 and those of Ghant some sixe yeeres after haue excluded those who are borne in adultery or incest from their mothers inheritance but the prouinciall Counsell of Flanders in the yeere 1532 gaue sentence that a Bastard should succeed in the see of his mother with
the walles of the City At Pisa in Italy they haue a publike place of buriall like in fashion to these but within the walles of the Citie and the building compassing it is very stately and much to be preferred before that of Leipzig This place is called Campo santo that is the holy field either of the vse or because the Emperour Frederick Barbarossa returning from the holy Land and taking that earth for ballast of his ships did after lay the same in this place The Exchange or publike place for the meeting of Merchants and for the selling of smaller or richer wares at London being built of Free-stone by Sir Thomas Gresham Knight and Merchant is the most starely building in that kind that I haue seene in Europe or Turkey For that of Antwerp in imitation whereof this is said to haue been built was neuer seene by me and I haue heard many preferre this before that Ancona in Italy hath such a place much lesse but very beautifull and that of Hamburg in Germany is much to be commended That of Constantinople called Besensteine is markable rather for the precious wares and iewels then for the building which is onely of Bricke and therein also they sell captiues for slaues For publike houses built for the meeting of the Senate there be many in Germany which are very starely and among them that of Hamburg seemed to mee the fairest The Germans Low-countrimen and Sweitzers haue in each City publike houses where the Citizens meete to walke and for exercises as shooting in the peece and Crossebow and where they also drinke and feast together Those of Sweitzerland are lesse sumptuous for building but much more pleasant hauing trees within the boughes whereof they haue roomes or arbours built vpon the bodies of the trees whereof diuers containe three or foure Tables besides that water is drawne vp by pipes to the top of the tree for washing of glasses and like vses Among the Stables of Princes that of the Duke of Saxony at Dresden in Germany is the fairest of all other and a rare building for that purpose For Clocks that of Strasburg in Germany is most artificiall and to bee wondred at and is much to bee preferred before that of Lubeck or any other in the World In Italy there be many wonderfull ruines of old Theaters water Conduits and like monuments in many places but these ruines belong not properly to this discourse and there be few like built of late Onely the water Counduit at Rome newly built by Pope Sixtus Quintus is a Kingly worke And the Theater at Vicenza now standing and in vse for Comedies is faire and starely The Theaters at London in England for Stageplaies are more remarkeable for the number and for the capacity then for the building The Bridge at London is worthily to be numbred among the miracles of the world if men respect the building and foundation laid artificially and stately ouer an ebbing and flowing water vpon 21 piles of stone with 20 arches vnder which Barkes may passe the lowest foūdation being as they say packs of woll most durable against the force of the water and not to be repaired but vpon great fall of the waters and by artificiall turning or stopping the recourse of them Or if men respect the houses built vpon the bridge as great and high as those of the firme land so as a man cannot know that he passeth a bridge but would iudge himselfe to be in the streete saue that the houses on both sides are combined in the top making the passage somewhat darke and that in some few open places the Riuer of Thames may be seene on both sides In the second rancke is the bridge of our Lady at Paris in France The next place belongs to the bridge of Venice called Realto consisting of one but an high Arch and built partly of marble partly of freestone and to be ascended by many staires on both sides and hauing low shoppes vpon the ascents and on the top and for the building of the whole bridge being more stately then that of Paris In the fourth rancke is the bridge of Florence ouer the riuer Arno and for bare bridges hauing no buildings vpon them the bridge of Dresden in Germany and many other bridges in England in my opinion might be preferred before that of Florence had it not those houses built vpon it But the bridge of Rome called Sant ' Angelo is not worth the naming howsoeuer the Italians after their bragging manner haue made the same appeare famous to men that neuer saw it as likewise they haue spread the fame of the Roman Riuer Tyberis which at Rome and running vnder this bridge deserues rather to be accounted a little brooke or a ditch then a Riuer And as for the inundations thereof they are rather to be attributed to the narrownesse of the bed then the greatnesse of the Riuer onely increasing vpon the fall of raine or melted snow from the neighbour mountaines and making no Hauen at the very mouth where it enters into the Sea Surely howsoeuer the Italians were of old very magnificent in many things yet by obtruding their Latin tongue to all Nations they conquered they did likewise make them conceiue of euery spring brooke and porch as of the Worlds miracles And there be some among them at this day who in their sleeues laugh at Trauellers curiously searching after these Antiquities thus made famous by old Writers and who take pleasure to delude this their simplicity for such they esteeme it howsoeuer wee doe but by the way search after them hauing more profitable ends of our iournies into Italie There be some other bridges of exceeding length as those of Strasburg and Wien more knowne by the name of Vienna in Germany but they being onely built of timber and laid ouer with loose peeces of timber that vpon danger of Armies and inundations they may be more easily broken and built vp againe and so being nothing lesse then durable I doe onely here mention them The Goldsmiths shops at London in England being in diuers streetes but especially that called Cheapc-side are exceeding richly furnished continually with gold and siluer plate and Iewels The Goldsmiths shops vpon the bridges at Florence and Paris haue perhaps sometimes beene as richly or better furnished for the time or some nuptiall Feast of the Princes or like occasion with Plate and Iewels borrowed of priuate persons for that purpose but I may lawfully say setting all loue of my Countrey apart that I did neuer see any such daily shew any thing so sumptuous in any place of the World as in London I will not speake in this place of Churches and Academicall Colledges but referre them to their proper places where in the last Part I shall treat of Religion and Vniuersities Onely here it shall suffice in a word to say that the Churches in England and Colledges in the Vniuersities
thereof considering due circumstances are to be much admired and preferred before any in the World Munster affirmeth that the Romans built in Germany beyond the Riuers Danow Rheine more stately Cities then are to be seene in other parts thereof But for my part I would say that Nurnberg Dresden Brestawe the chiefe City of Silesia and the Cities vpon the Sea Coast towards the North called Hans stetten that is free Cities are much fairer and farre more magnificently built then those that he nameth The Cities within land excepting Ertford those of Hessen and some like which are built of timber clay and plaster or of durt and couered with tiles of wood are built of great polished and carued free stones foure or fiue stories high with an high roofe bearing windowes and couered with tiles Some of the foresaid Cities on the Sea Coast are built of free stone but for the most part of bricke and in the lower fore roome being commonly large they haue great dores like gates towards the streetes which being open by day expose to the eies of passengers the bright puter dishes and other like vessels of tin and brasse which vse to be set forth in the vpper end of that roome And not onely the priuate houses but the publike streetes are notable for clenlinesse vniformity and beauty The houses and buildings vpon the Alpes excepting some few Cities which are equall to the foresaid built within land as Insprucke lying in the way betweene Augsburg and Padoua are built much lower most commonly of freestone and couered with tiles of wood and for three parts of the yeere they are continually couered with snow and as through all Germany the casements of the windowes are little so in these parts they are much lesse so as a man can hardly put his head out of them and the windowes on the Inside are all to be shut close with woodden windowes they vsing all possible art to keepe the cold out and to retaine the heat of the stoaues within Noblemens Castles in Germany are for the most part answerable to the building of the Cities within Land but they shew more antiquity and are more built for strength then beauty And the more stately Pallaces of Cities and these Castles in some places as my selfe obserued at Augsburg but very rarely are couered with copper which Germany yeeldeth but neuer with leade whereof they haue none of their owne The building of houses in the Townes is for matter like to that of the Cities but lower and the Villages for the most part are built of timber clay and plaster or durt and couered with tiles of wood or the worst of them with straw In generall at the most frequented dores of euery house they haue ropes that men without by the ringing of a bell may be let in and those within may open the dores by the pulling of a roape without going to them and the dores likewise by waights are made to shut of themselues at the heeles of him that comes in without the helpe of any hand The windowes in generall are of a thicke glasse with little casements closed in wood not in iron which they seldome open that the stoaues may be kept warme To conclude Germany yeelds to no place in the World for the number or stately building of Cities yet so as respecting the greatnesse thereof it hath not so frequent and little distant Cities as Netherland and other lesse Dominions haue Among the Cities of Sweitzerland the building of Bern is most vniforme and faire being of freestone with arched Cloysters towards the streete as in some parts of Italy vnder which men walke drie footed after the greatest raine but most of the Cities as of the Townes and Villages are fairely built with timber clay and plaster and commonly are seated on the declining sides of Mountaines and hils Of the last sort are the houses of Boemerland saue that the wals and foundations are made of whole bodies of trees as they are cut downe euen couered with the bark and ioined together with clay and morter And these houses are generally couered with tiles of wood not with slates In the vnited Prouinces the houses are most of bricke aswell in Cities as in Villages and so vniforme as if they had all beene built at a time and by the same workemen The fronts of them towards the streetes are commonly narrow excepting some few that are broade and high and so are built inward in length with narrow windowes and nothing at all cast out from the wals and the roofes haue windowes for vse of the roomes being couered with tiles or peeces of wood in the same forme At Leyden and Delph the houses are built very high of many stories and the roofes are steepe and haue also windowes for vse At the Hage being a most pleasant Village where the States keepe their residence the building is like but the Castle in which Count Maurice dwelt and some few Gentlemens houses are built of freestone and in some outlanes many houses are couered with straw The wares of Merchants the vessels of tinne and brasse being kept most cleane and like ornaments lie open in the lowest and greatest roome by large dores to passengers view as I formerly said of the Cities on the Sea coast of Germany They build with very slender timber so as the new built threaten falling and vpon little force totter and shake The floares are paued with plaster boards being more costly and apt to take fire And these floares are daily cast ouer with sand to keepe them from durt onely by sweeping away the sand at night In the Kingdome of Denmarke there is onely one Citie compassed with walles called Kopenhagen in which as in the other little Cities Townss and Villages the houses of the Citizens are for the most part of timber clay and plaster seldome of freestone The Kings Castle there is built of free stone but with no magnificence His second Castle at Elsenure is very stately built of freestone and also strongly fortified to command one side of the straight sea where great tribute is exacted of all ships entring or going out of the Sound In Poland there be but few Cities for so large a Kingdome but the houses of them are built of free stone much like to the Inland Cities of Germany saue that in some places the houses are arched towards the streete like the Cloysters of Monasteries Some of the houses in the Villages are of timber clay and plaster but the greatest part of meere durt and couered with straw Few of the Noble mens houses are of free stone but the greater part of timber clay and plaster The Italians are exceeding rich in their owne commodities and by trafficke which the Gentlemen and Princes scorne not to vse and they spending little in house-keeping or apparrell all their pride is to build stately houses water Counduits Fountaines and to haue rich Iewels