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B18452 Camden's Britannia newly translated into English, with large additions and improvements ; publish'd by Edmund Gibson ...; Britannia. English Camden, William, 1551-1623.; Gibson, Edmund, 1669-1748. 1695 (1695) Wing C359 2,080,727 883

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build an Hospital in the place of it for the maintenance of wounded and superannuated Soldiers which being begun by him was carried on by his Successor King James the second and is finisht and furnisht with all sorts of Necessaries and Conveniencies by their present Majesties 'T is indeed a Structure well suiting the munificence of its Royal Founders being more nobly accommodated with all sorts of Offices and adorned with more spatious walks and gardens perhaps than any Nobleman's house or College in the Kingdom h Hence our Author brings us to London London the capital city of England where he first give us an account of it's various names and etymologies of them to which I shall only add * Chron. Sax. that it was also call'd by the Saxons Lundone Lundune and Lundenburh and has another etymology given us of it's Latin name by the judicious Mr. Somner † Glossar ad X. Script who derives it from the British Llawn plenus frequens and dyn homo or din the same with dinas urbs civitas either of which joyned wit Llawn will signifie a populous place as London has always been i As to the original of the City tho' we have no certain account City bui●● it not being clear that there was any such place in Caesar's time and yet a great town of trade in Nero's as Tacitus witnesses doubtless it must be founded within that little compass of time between those Emperours and in all probability as the learned ‖ Orig. B●●t p. 43. Bishop of Worcester thinks about the time of Claudius and inhabited by the Romans and Britains together being a trading tho' not a military Colony as Camulodunum was from the very beginning But it flourish'd not long for in the very next reign of the Emperour Nero upon that grand revolt of the Iceni and Trinobantes under Boodicia his Lieutenant Suetonius Paulinus judging it not tenible and taking away from it to his aid the choicest of the Citizens it was quickly sack'd by the Britains and the remaining inhabitants barbarously massacred without any regard to sex or age So that I cannot so fully agree with our Author when he asserts that this has been a City vix unquam magnis calamitatibus conflictata Suffer'd several Calamities that scarce ever engag'd any great calamity For not only in it's infancy but when grown to a greater bulk in the year 839. in the reign of King Ethelwolf it was surprized by the Danes and the Citizens inhumanly butcher'd Quickly after in the year 851. it was again sack'd by the Danes the army of Beorhtwulf King of Mercia who came to it's defence being totally routed Again in the year 872. in the days of King Ethelred the Danes took it and winter'd in it And so again An. 1013. after a great fight with Swane King of Denmark who besieg'd it the Citizens were at last forc'd to admit him and his army to winter in it and to pay him such tribute as he demanded Lastly in the year 1016. it was twice besieg'd and so much streighten'd by Canutus that they were necessitated in fine to receive him into the city give him winter quarters and to buy their peace with a sum of money * Ch●●● Sax. 〈…〉 An●● Not to mention the grievous insults that were made upon it of later years by Wat Tyler and Jack Straw temp Rich. 2. An. 1381. of Jack Cade otherwise call'd by his followers John Mend-all An. 1450. temp Hen. 6. and the bastard Falconbridge temp Edw. 4. An. 1481. Nor has it suffer'd only by the sword it being much wasted by fire as ‖ Poly● Lib. ● Ranulph Higden tells us An. 983. And in the year 1077 in the days of William the Conquerour it was also consumed by so great a fire as had not happen'd to it as the Saxon Chronicle expresses it since it's foundation † Ch●●● Sax p ● Quickly after again in the same King's reign An. 1086. the Church of S. Paul was quite burnt down with the greatest and most splendid part of the City ‖ Stow's Survey p. 2●● Again in the year 1135. the first of King Stephen by a fire which began in Cannon-street near London-stone the City was consumed from thence to the Eastward as far as Aldgate to S. Paul's Church Westward and to the South as far as Southwark the bridge then of timber being quite burnt down It was afterwards rebuilt of stone and houses set upon it but within four years after it was finish'd An. 1212. upon occasion of a fire in Southwark whilst a multitude of people were passing the bridge either to extinguish or to gaze at it on a sudden the houses on the North end of the bridge by a strong South wind were set on fire So that the people thronging betwixt two fires could now expect no help but from the vessels in the river which came in great numbers to their assistance but the multitude so unadvisedly rush'd into them that they were quickly overset and the people drown'd and betwixt fire and water there perish'd above 3000 persons † G alt 〈…〉 L● D●n● 〈…〉 S. Also Feb. 13. An. 1033. a third part at least of the same bridge was again burnt down S●●w's 〈◊〉 p. ● 〈◊〉 of L●●don But the most dreadful fire that ever befell this great City was that which happen'd within our own memory viz. on Sunday Sept. 2. An. 1666. which beginning in Pudding-lane in three days time being driven by a fresh easterly wind consumed no less than 89 Churches the Guild-hall Hospitals Schools and Libraries 15 entire Wards of the 26 leaving 8 of the rest half burnt and miserably shatter'd In this compass were 400 streets and in them 13200 houses which cover'd no less than 436 acres of ground It destroying all on the Thames-side from that of Allhallows Barkin to the Temple Church and all along from the North-east walls of the City to Holburn-bridge and when all artificial helps fail'd it languish'd and went out of it self tho' amongst as combustible buildings as any it had burnt before In memory whereof near the place where the fire began is erected a magnificent Pillar somewhat resembling except the Imagery those of Trajan and Antonine at Rome of 202 foot high which equals exactly the distance of the Pillar from the place where the fire first began k In which Conflagration the magnificent Church of St. Pauls S Pa●l's did not escape the foundation whereof was laid so very large that as our Author notes tho' the whole revenues of the Bishoprick for 20 years together were given toward it by Richard Beaumes successor to Mauricius the first founder yet they seemed so little to advance the work that his successors and all others despaired of its ever being finish'd at least by private hands Wherefore they were forced to apply themselves to the bounty of all good people throughout the Realms both of England and Ireland as appears by
Canutus founded for Nuns who being expell'd within a little time in the year 1040. Leofrick Earl of Mercia enlarg'd it and in a manner built it a-new with so great a show of gold and silver to use Malmesbury's words that the walls of the Church seem'd too strait to contain the treasures of it It was very prodigious to behold for from one beam were scrap'd w Five hundred marks Malmesb. See Dugdale's Warwickshire 50 marks of silver And he endow'd it with so great revenues that Robert de Limsey Bishop of Lichfield and Chester remov'd his See hither as to the golden sands of Lydia that as the same Malmesbury hath it he might steal from the treasures of the Church wherewithall to fill the King's Coffers to cheat the Pope of his provisions and gratifie the Roman avarice However this See after a few years return'd back to Lichfield but upon these terms that one and the same Bishop should be stil'd Bishop of Coventry and Lichfield The first Lord of this City that I know of 〈◊〉 of ●●●try was Leofrick who being incens'd against the Citizens laid upon them very heavy taxes these he would by no means remit notwithstanding the great intercession of his Lady Godiva unless she would consent to ●ide naked thro' the most frequented parts of the city ●●50 which if credit may be given to tradition she perform'd ●egus having cover'd her body with her long dangling hair without being seen by any one and so freed her Citizens from many heavy impositions From Leofrick this City by Lucia his son Algar's daughter came into the possession of the Earls of Chester for she had marry'd Ranulph the first Earl of that name and the third of the family who granted the same Liberties to Coventry that Lincoln enjoy'd and gave a great part of the City to the Monks the residue of it and Chilmore their manour-house near the City he reserv'd to him and his heirs who dying and the inheritance for want of issue-male coming to be divided amongst the sisters Coventry by the death of the Earls of Arundel fell to Roger de Monte alto De monte Alto. or Monthault whose grandson Robert granted all his right for want of issue-male to Queen Isabel Mother of King Edw. 3. to hold during her life after her decease the remainder to John de Eltham brother of the King and to the heirs of his body begotten In default of such the remainder to Edward King of England and his heirs for ever For so you have it in a Fine the second year of Edward 3. But John of Eltham was afterwards created Earl of Cornwall and this place became annex'd to the Earldom of Cornwall from which time it hath flourish'd very much Several Kings gave it divers immunities and privileges especially Edward 3. who granted them the electing of a Mayor and two Bayliffs 11 And to build and embattle a wall about it and Henry 6. who having laid to it some of the neighbouring villages granted by his Charter For so are the very words of it That it should be an entire County incorporate by it self in deed and name distinct from the County of Warwick At which time in lieu of two Bayliffs he constituted two Sheriffs and the Citizens began to enclose it with very strong walls In these are very noble and beautiful gates at that which goes by the name of Gofford is to be seen a vast shield-bone of a Boar which you may believe that Guy of Warwick or Diana of the Groves which you please kill'd in hunting after he had with his shout turn'd up the pit or pond that is now called Swansewell-pool but in ancient Charters Swineswell As to the Longitude of this City it lies in 25 degrees and 52 scruples the Latitude in 52 degrees and 25 scruples Thus much of Coventry which yet that I may ingenuously acknowledge the person who furnish'd me with it you must know you have not from me but from Henry Ferrars of Badsley a person to be respected as for his birth so for his great knowledge in Antiquity and my very good friend who in this and other places courteously directed me and as it were gave me leave to light my candle at his s Near Coventry to the North are situated Ausley Ausley a castle heretofore of the Hastings Lords of Abergavenny and ww Brandon Brand Brand. of old a seat of the Verdons To the East is placed Caloughdon vulgarly call'd Caledon Caledon an ancient seat of the Barons Segrave Barons Segrave from whom it descended to the Barons de Berkley by one of the daughters of Thomas Mowbray Duke of Norfolk These Segraves from the time that Stephen de Segrave was Lord Chief Justice of England were Barons of this Realm and enjoy'd the inheritance of the Chaucumbs whose Arms from that time they assumed viz. Arms of the Segraves A Lion rampant Argent crowned Or in a shield Sable John the last of this family marry'd Margaret Dutchess of Norfolk daughter of Thomas de Brotherton and had issue Elizabeth who carry'd the honour of Marshal of England and title of Duke of Norfolk into the family of the Mowbrays Not far from hence is Brinkle Brinkle-castle where was an ancient castle of the Mowbrays to which belong'd many fair possessions lying round it but time hath swept away the very ruins of it t as also of the Monastery of Combe Combe-Abbey which the Camvils and the Mowbrays endow'd Out of whose ashes the fair structure of the Harringtons arose in this place As you go Eastward x Anciently writ Thester Over as being seated castward of Monks-kirby and call'd but lately Cester-over by the inhabitants Dugd. Warwicksh p. 60. Cester-over presents it self the possession of the Grevils of whom I have before made mention Near which Watling street a Military way of the Romans dividing this County to the North from Leicestershire passes by High-cross of which we have already spoken near Nonn-eaton which of old was call'd Eaton but Amicia the wise of Robert Bossu Earl of Leicester as Henry Knighton writes having founded a Monastery of Nuns here in which she her self was profess'd of that number from those Nuns it got the name of Non-Eaton And formerly it was of great fame for the piety of its holy virgins who being constant in their devotions gave a good example of holy living to all about them Near this stood heretofore Asteley-castle Asteley the chief seat of the family of the Asteleys 12 Out of which flourish'd Barons in the time of King Edward the first second and third Baron Aste●ey the heiress of which was the second wife of Reginald Grey Lord of Ruthin From him sprang the Greys Marquisses of Dorset some of whom lye interr'd 13 In a most fine and fair Collegiate Church which Thomas Lord Astley founded with a Dean and Secular Canons in the neat
naufraga Petri Ductorem in mediis expectat cymba procellis Now thy vast honours with thy virtues grow Now a third mitre waits thy sacred brow Deserted Wigorn mourns that thou art gone And Kent's glad sons thy happy conduct own Now Rome desires thee Peter wants thy hand To guide his leaky vessel safe to land This city was in all probability built by the Romans when to curb the Britains who dwelt beyond Severn they planted cities at convenient distances all along upon its east-bank just as they did in Germany on the south-side of the Rhine It is seated upon an easie ascent from the river over which lieth a bridge with a tower upon it It was anciently fenced with lofty Roman walls as an old parchment-roll informs us and hath to this day a good firm wall But its glory consists in its inhabitants who are numerous courteous and wealthy by means of the Cloathing trade in the neatness of its buildings the number of Churches and most of all in the Episcopal See which Sexuulfus Bishop of the Mercians placed here A. D. 680. building a Cathedral Church in the south part of the city which hath often been repair'd and by the Bishops and Monks hath been lengthened westward a little at a time almost to Severn side It is really a fair and magnificent Structure ennobled with the monuments of King John Arthur Prince of Wales and some of the Beauchamps A College also of learned men called Prebendaries no less famous than were formerly the Priory of Monks or College of Secular Priests here For in this Church presently upon its first foundation as in the other Abbies of England were placed married Presbyters Married Priests who govern'd those Churches a long time with great reputation for sanctity till Dunstan Archbishop of Canterbury in a Synod decreed Register of the Church of Worcester A. D. 964. That for the future all Religious men in England should lead a single life For then Oswald Bishop of this See who was a most zealous promoter of Monkery remov'd the Priests and plac'd Monks in their room which King Edgar attests in these words l The Convents both of Monks and Virgins were destroy'd and neglected all England over which I have determined to repair to the praise of God for the benefit of my own soul and to increase the number of the Servants of God of both sexes and accordingly I have already settled Monks and Nuns in seven and forty houses and resolve if Christ spare me life to do it that I will go on in the oblation of my devout munificence to God till I have made them up fifty the number of the years of Remission Wherefore at present that Monastery in the Episcopal See of Worcester which the reverend Bishop Oswald hath to the honour of Mary the holy mother of God enlarged and having expelled the Secular Clerks c. by my assent and favour bestowed on the religious servants of God the Monks I do by my royal Authority confirm to the said religious persons leading a Monastick life and with the advice and consent of my Princes and Nobles do corroborate and consign c. After some considerable time when through the incursions of the Danes and civil broils the state of this Church was so decay'd that in the place of that numerous company of Monks which Oswald founded here scarce 12 were left Wulfstan S. Wulstan who sate Bp. of this See about A. D. 1090. restor'd it and augmented the number of Monks to 50. and also built a new Church He was a mean scholar even in the account of that age but a person of such simplicity and unfeigned integrity and of a conversation so severe and strict that he was a terrour to ill men and beloved by all that were good insomuch that after his death the Church gave him a place in the Kalendar among the Saints Now after they had flourished in great wealth and power above 500 years King Hen. 8. expell'd these Monks and in their room placed a Dean and Prebendaries and founded a Grammar-school for the instruction of youth Close by this Church remain the bare name and ground-plot of the Castle Which as we read in William of Malmesbury's history of Bishops Ursus made Sheriff of Worcester by William 1. built in the very teeth of the Monks so that the grass took away part of their cemetery But this Castle through the injury of time and casualty of fire hath many years since been ruined The City also hath been more than once burnt down A. D. 1041. it was set on fire by Hardy-Canute who being enraged at the Citizens for killing his Huscarles so they call'd his Officers who collected the Danegelt did not only fire the City Marianus but also massacre all the inhabitants except such as escaped into Bevercy a small island in the river Nevertheless we find in the survey of William 1. that in the days of Edward the Confessor it had a great many Burgesses and was rated at xv hide-land and when the Mint went every Minter gave xx shillings at London for stamps to coin withall In the year 1113. a casual fire which consumed the Castle burnt the roof of the Church also During the Civil wars in K. Stephen's reign it was fired once and again but suffered most when that King took the City Anno 15 Steph. Re●●● which he had unadvisedly put into the hands of Walleran Earl of Mellent but at that time he could not carry the Castle m However it still rose out of the ashes with greater beauty and hath flourished under an excellent Government managed by two Bailiffs chosen out of 24 Citizens two Aldermen and two Chamberlains with a Common Council consisting of 48 Citizens more n As to the Geographical account of it it 's Longitude from the west Meridian is 21 degrees 52 minutes and hath the north pole elevated 52 degrees and 12 minutes o From Worcester taking its course westward the river passeth by Powick Barons of Powick anciently the seat of John Beauchamp whom K. Hen. 6. raised to the dignity of a Baron whose estate soon after heirs female carried to the Willoughbies of Broke the Reads and Ligons p Hence through rich and fragrant meadows it runs by Hanley Hanley formerly a Castle belonging to the Earls of Glocester and Upton Upton a noted market town where Roman Coins are frequently dug up Not far off on the right-hand Severn hath the prospect of Malvern Malvern hills hills hills indeed or rather great and lofty mountains for about seven miles together rising like stairs one higher than the other and dividing this County from that of Hereford On the top Gilbert de Clare Earl of Glocester did anciently cast up a ditch all along to part his lands from those of the Church of Worcester which ditch is still to be seen and is very much admired pp On the other side Severn and near the same distance
aloft that it seems I shall not say to threaten the sky but even to thrust its head into it And yet it harbours snow continually being throughout the year cover'd with it or rather with a harden'd crust † Nivium senio of snow of many years continuance And hence the British name of Kreigieu Eryreu and that of Snowdon Snowdon Hills in English both which signifie Snowy mountains so Niphates in Armenia and Imaus in Scythia as Pliny informs us were denominated from Snow Nevertheless these mountains are so fertile in grass that it 's a common saying among the Welsh That the mountains of Eryreu would in a case of necessity afford pasture enough for all the cattel in Wales I shall say nothing of the two lakes on the tops of these mountains in one of which there floats a wandring island and the other affords plenty of fish each whereof has but one eye lest I might seem to countenance fables tho' some relying on Giraldus's authority have believ'd both However that there are lakes and standing waters on the tops of these mountains is certain whence Gervase of Tilbury in his book entitl'd Otia Imperialia writes thus In the land of Wales within the bounds of Great Britain are high mountains which have laid their foundations on exceeding hard rocks on the tops whereof the ground is so boggy that where you do but just place your foot you 'll perceive it to move for a stones cast Wherefore upon a surprisal of the enemy the Welsh by their agility skipping over that boggy ground do either escape their assaults or resolutely expect them while they advance forward to their own ruin Joannes Sarisburiensis in his Polycraticon calls the inhabitants of these mountains by a new-coin'd word Nivi collinos of whom he wrote thus in the time of Henry 2. Nivicollini Britones irruunt c. The Snowdon-Britains make inroads and being now come out of their caverns and woods they seize the plains of our Nobles and before their faces assault and overthrow them or retain what they have got because our youth who delight in the house and shade as if they were born only to consume the fruit of the land sleep commonly till broad day c. a But let us now descend from the mountains to the plains which seeing we find only by the sea it may suffice if we coast along the shore That promontory we have observ'd already to be extended to the south-west is call'd in the several copies of Ptolemy Canganum Canga●●● Janganum and Langanum Which is truest I know not but it may seem to be Langanum seeing the inhabitants at this day call it Lhŷn Lhyn It runs in with a narrow Peninsula having larger plains than the rest of this County which yield plenty of Barley It affords but two small towns worth our notice the innermost at the bay of Pwlh heli Pwlh 〈◊〉 which name signifies the Salt Pool and the other by the Irish sea which washes one part of this Peninsula call'd Nevin Nevin where in the year 1284 the English Nobility as Florilegus writes triumphing over the Welsh celebrated the memory of Arthur the Great with Tournaments and festival pomp If any more towns flourish'd here they were then destroyed Vita G●fyd●●na●● when Hugh Earl of Chester Robert of Rutland and Guarin of Salop the first Normans that advanc'd thus far so wasted this promontory that for seven years it lay desolate From Nevin the shore indented with two or three promontories is continued northwards and then turning to the north-east passes by a narrow frith or chanel call'd Meneu ●neu or ●nat See ●irebe● which separates the Isle of Anglesey from the firm land Upon this Fretum stood the city Segontium ●●go●tium mention'd by Antoninus of the walls whereof I have seen some ruins near a small Church built in honour of St. Publicius 〈…〉 It took its name from a river that runs by it call'd to this day Seiont which issues out of the lake Lhŷn Peris wherein they take a peculiar fish not seen elsewhere call'd by the inhabitants from its red belly Torgoch ●●●goch Now seeing an ancient copy of Ptolemy places the haven of the Setantii ●ntii in this coast which other copies remov'd much farther off if I should read it Segontiorum Portum and should say it was at the mouth of this river perhaps I should come near the truth at least a candid reader would pardon my conjecture Ninnius calls this city Kaer Kystenydh and the author of the life of Grufydh ap Kynan tells us that Hugh Earl of Chester built a castle at Hén Gaer Kystenin which the Latin Interpreter renders The ancient city of the Emperour Constantine Moreover Matthew of Westminster hath recorded but herein I 'll not avouch for him that the body of Constantius the father of Constantine the Great was found here in the year 1283. and honourably interr'd in the Church of the new town by command of King Edward 1. who at that time built the town of Kaer'n Arvon out of the ruins of this city ●nar● a little higher by the mouth of the river in such a situation that the sea washes it on the west and north This as it took its name from its situation opposite to the island Mona so did it communicate that name to the whole County for thence the English call it Caernarvonshire This town is encompass'd with a firm wall tho' of a small circumference almost of a circular form and shews a beautiful castle which takes up all the west-side of it The private buildings for the manner of the Country are neat and the civility of the inhabitants much commended They esteem it a great honour that King Edward 1. was their founder and that his son Edward 2. the first Prince of Wales of English extraction was born there who was therefore stiled Edward of Caernarvon Moreover the Princes of Wales had here their Chancery their Exchequer and their Justiciary for North Wales In a bottom seven miles hence on the same Fretum lies Bangor ●gor or Banchor enclosed on the south-side with a very steep mountain and a hill on the north so call'd à choro pulchro or as others suppose quasi locus chori ●ee ● 〈◊〉 ●sh D. 〈◊〉 in word 〈◊〉 ●e● ●●i Pen●● or 〈◊〉 Ce● which is a Bishop's See and contains in it's Diocese 96 Parishes The Cathedral is consecrated to Daniel once Bishop thereof it 's no very fair building having been burnt by that most profligate Rebel Owen Glyn Dowrdwy who design'd no less than the destruction of all the Cities of Wales 'T was afterwards restored in the time of Henry 7. by the Bishop thereof Henry Deny but hath not yet recover'd it's ancient splendour 'T is now only a small town but was heretofore so considerable ●a G●●f that for it 's large extent it was call'd Bangor-vawr and
duties and therefore 't is not strange that a Colony should be converted into a Municipium But to what purpose is this nicety For the difference between those two words is not always precisely observ'd in the History of the Caesars but sometimes both Colonia and Municipium promiscuously apply'd to one and the same place Yet from the Coins before-mention'd I dare hardly affirm this Colony to have been planted here by Severus seeing Ptolemy 13 And Antonine himself tells us that in the time of the Antonines this was the station of the sixth Legion However we read that Severus Severus had his Palace here and that he died in this city with these words in his mouth The Common-wealth was disorder'd in all parts when I receiv'd it yet I leave it all in peace and good temper even to the Britains His Corps were also brought out after the Roman manner by the Souldiers and committed to the flames and the day solemniz'd with races by his sons and souldiers at a certain place under the town not far to the west near Ackham where stands yet a huge mount which Radulphus Niger tells us was in his time call'd Sivers from Severus His ashes were preserv'd in a golden Urn or a vessel of Porphyrite-stone and transferr'd to Rome where it was laid in the monument of the Antonines I must not forget to take notice that there stood a Temple dedicated to Bellona in this City for Spartian speaking of the City says That Severus coming into it Bellona's Temple and intending to offer sacrifice was first conducted to the Temple of Bellona by a mistake of an ignorant Augur And that it was then so happy as to have justice administred to it by that great Oracle of the Law Aemilius Paulus Papinianus Forcatulus has told us From this City the Emperours Severus and Antoninus upon a question arising about the sense of the Law dated their Rescript de Rei Vindicatione About a hundred years after the death of Severus Constantius Chlorus Fla. Val. Constantius sirnam'd Chlorus an excellent Emperour endow'd with all moral and christian virtues came to this City as the Panegyrist has it the Gods calling him hither as to the remotest part of the world Here he died likewise and was afterwards deified as appears by the old Coins And tho' Florilegus tells us that his Tomb was found in Wales as I have already observ'd yet I have been inform'd by credible persons that at the suppression of Monasteries in the last age there was found a Lamp burning in the vault of a little Chapel here and Constantius was thought to be buried there Lazius tells us that the ancients had an art of dissolving gold into a fat liquor and of preparing it so that it would continue burning in the Sepulchres for many ages Constantine the Great Constantius by his first wife Helena had issue Constantinus Maximus in Inscriptions stiled Romanae Urbis Liberator Quietis fundator and Reipublicae instaurator who here received the last gasp of his dying father and was immediately made Emperour The Souldiers as the Panegyrist says regarding rather the benefit of the State than their own private interests cast the robes upon him whilst he wept and clapt spurs to his horse to avoid the importunity of the army attempting at that instant to make him Emperour but at last his modesty gave way to the happiness of the State And therefore he exclaims at last O fortunate Britain now blessed above all Nations for having seen Constantine first Emperour Again Liberavit ille Britannias servitute tu etiam nobiles illic oriendo fecisti i.e. He rescued the Britains from slavery but thou hast enobled them by being born there For in the judgment of the learned Baronius and others this passage refers to the native Country of Constantine But I will not here repeat what I have already said From all this it may be inferr'd what figure Eboracum then made in the world seeing it was the Seat of the Roman Emperours Our own Historians tell us pp This account is not too well grounded See Fuller's Chur●h Hist A. D. 305. that it was made an Episcopal See by Constantius But that Taurinus the Martyr Bishop of the Eburovices or Eureux presided here I am not inclin'd with others Vincentii Speculum Historiale to believe for Vincentius by whom they were tainted with this errour would confute me with his own words When the Romans withdrew themselves and left Britain a prey to barbarous Nations such a weighty share of miseries fell to this City that towards the end of the Scotch and Saxon wars it was nothing but the mere fame and Echo of what it had been For when Paulinus preached Christianity to the Saxons of this Province it was reduced so low that the whole City could not afford so much as a small Church wherein to baptize King Edwin who in the year 627. rais'd a fabrick of wood for Divine Service and after that intending to build another of stone he had hardly laid the foundation but he died leaving the work to be finisht by his successor King Oswald From this time the City began to be great in Ecclesiastical affairs Pope Honorius sent it a Pall Scotland formerly subje●● to the Arch-bishop of York See in Scotland and it was made a Metropolitan City endowed with soveraignty not only over twelve Sees here in England but over all the Bishopricks of Scotland But Scotland hath disown'd her Prerogative many years since and she her self hath swallowed up several small inconsiderable Bishopricks hereabouts so that the whole Province is now reduc'd to the four Sees of Durham Chester Carlisle and Man or Sodor in the Isle of Man Egbert an Arch-bishop of this See who lived about the year 740. founded a noble Library The Library here these are the words of Malmsbury a Treasury and Cabinet if I may so express my self enrich'd with all Arts and Sciences Of which also Alcuinus of York who was Tutor to Charles the great the first Author of an Academy at Paris as also the great glory of this City makes mention of it in his Epistle to the said Charles the great Fl●ccus Alcuinus or Albinus flourish'd about 780. Give me such excellent and learned Books for Scholastick Divinity as I have seen in my own Country collected by the useful and pious industry of Egbert Arch-bishop And if it seem proper to your Wisdom I will send some of your own servants who may copy out of them such things as be necessary and so transport the flowers of Britain into France that this garden may no longer be confined to York but somethirg of that Paradise may be transplanted to q Here Alcuinus dy'd A. D. 780. and was buried in a s all Convent appendant to his Monastery of St. Martin's where he was Abbot Fuller's Worth p. 227. from Bale who ranks him the third English man for learning Tours
think m This reading should make it seem to be the ancient Whitern or Candida Casa in Galloway in Scotland being possibly a corruption for 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 i.e. White-houses Leucopibia Nennius Caer Lualid the ridiculous Welsh Prophecies The City of Duballus we Carlile and the Latins from the more modern name Carleolum For that Luguballia and Carlile are the same is universally agreed upon by our Historians n Caer in Welsh signifies a City and Caer-Luul Caer-Luel Caer-Lugubal as it was anciently writ are the very same with Caer-Leil or Caer-Luil the present appellation and import as much as the Town or City of Luul Luel or Lugubal But as to the Etymology good God! what pains has our Countryman Leland took about it and at last he 's driven upon this shift to fancy Ituna might be call'd Lugus and that Ballum came from Vallis a valley and so makes Lugu-vallum as much as a valley upon the Luge But give me leave also to produce my conjecture I dare affirm that the Vallum and Vallin were deriv'd from that famous military Vallum of the Romans which runs just by the City For Antoninus calls it Luguvallum ad vallum and the Picts-wall that was afterwards built upon the Wall of Severus is to be seen at Stanwicks a small village a little beyond the Eden over which there is a wooden bridge It pass'd the river over against the Castle where in the very chanel the remains of it namely great stones appear to this day Also Pomponius Mela has told us 〈◊〉 ●●gus ●hat they ●●gnify'd ●●ong the ●●cient Bri●●●ns and ●●als that Lugus or Lucus signify'd a Tower among the old Celtae who spoke the same Language with the Britains For what Antoninus calls Lugo Augusti is in him Turris Augusti so that Lugu-vallum both really is and signifies a tower or fort upon the wall or vallum Upon this bottom if the French had made their Lugdunum ●●gdu●●m signifie as much as a tower upon a hill and their Lucotetia Lucotetia or Lutetia in France An old Itinerary lately publish'd says that Lugdunum signifies a desirable mountain so the Ancients nam'd what we call Lutetia as much as a beautiful tower for the words import so much in the British possibly they might have been more in the right than by deriving the latter from Lutum dirt and the former from one Lugdus a fabulous King That this City flourish'd in the times of the Romans does plainly enough appear both from the several evidences of Antiquity they now and then dig up and from the frequent mention made of it by Roman Authors And even after the ravages of the Picts and Scots it retain'd something of it's ancient beauty and was reckon'd a City For in the year of our Lord 619. Egfrid King of Northumberland o See the Donation at large in Sim. Dunelm l 2. p. 58. gave it to the famous S. Cuthbert in these words I have also bestow'd upon him the City call'd Luguballia with the lands fifteen miles round it At which time also it was wall'd round The Citizens says Bede carry'd Cuthbert to see the Walls of the City and a Well of admirable workmanship built in it by the Romans At which time Cuthbert as the Durham-book has it founded a Religious-house for Nuns with an Abbess and Schools for the instruction of youth Afterwards being miserably destroy'd by the Danes it lay bury'd for about two hundred years in it's own ashes till it began to flourish again by the favour and assistance of William Rufus who built it a-new with a Castle and planted there a Colony first of the Flemings whom upon better consideration he quickly remov'd into oo North-Wales and the Isle of Anglesey Wales and then of English sent out of the south r Then as Malmesbury has it was to be seen a Roman Triclinium or dining-room of stone arch'd over which neither the violence of Weather nor Fire could destroy On the front of it was this Inscription Marii Victoriae Some will have this Marius to have been Arviragus the Britain others that Marius who was saluted Emperour in opposition to Gallienus and is said to have been so strong that Authors tell us he had nerves instead of veins in his fingers Yet I have heard that some Copies have it not Marii Victoriae but Marti Victori which latter may perhaps be favour'd by some and seem to come nearer the truth Luguballia now grown populous had as they write it's Earl or rather Lord Ralph Meschines or de Micenis from whom are descended the Earls of Chester and being about the same time honour'd with an Episcopal See by Hen. 1. had Athulph for it's first Bishop This the Monks of Durham look'd upon as an injury to their Church When Ralph say they Bishop of Durham was banish'd and the Church had none to protect it certain Bishops seis'd upon Carleil and Tividale and joyn'd them to their own Dioceses How the Scots in the reign of King Stephen took this City and Henry 2. recover'd it how Henry 3. Eversden committed the Castle of Carlile and the County to Robert de Veteri ponte or Vipont how in the year 1292. it was p The Chronicle of Lauercost is very particular in describing this lamentable Fire He that recorded the account was an eye-witness and says that the fire was so violent that it consum'd the villages two miles off as well as the Church Castle and the whole City and by his relation it should seem that the City was then much larger and more populous than at present it is burnt down along with the Cathedral and Suburbs how Robert Brus the Scot in the year 1315. besieg'd it without success c. are matters treated of at large in our Histories But it may be worth our while to add two Inscriptions I saw here one in the house of Thomas Aglionby near the Citadel * Deterioris seculi but not ancient DIIS MANIBV S MARCI TROIANI AVGVSTINANI * Tumulum TVM FA CIENDVM CVRAVIT AFEL AMMILLVSIMA CONIVX † Carissima KARISS To which is joyn'd the effigies of an armed Horseman with a Lance. The other is in the Garden of Thomas Middleton in a large and beautiful Character LEG VI VIC P. F. G. P. R. F. That is as I fancy Legio Sexta Victrix Pia Felix The interpretation of the rest I leave to others Andrew Harcla Earl of Carlisle Carlisle had only one Earl 15 Sir Andrew Andrew de Harcla whom Edward the second to speak from the Original Charter of Creation for his honourable and good services against Thomas Earl of Lancaster and his Adherents for subduing the King's Subjects who were in rebellion and delivering them prisoners to the King by the girding of a sword created Earl under the honour and title of Earl of Carleol But the same person afterwards prov'd ungrateful villanous and perfidious to
and holding there could not be three persons and one God Among other tenents he asserted that the blessed Virgin our Saviour's mother was an harlot that there was no resurection that the holy Scripture was a mere fable and that the apostolical See was an imposture and a groundless usurpation Upon these Articles Duff was convicted of heresie and blasphemy and was thereupon burnt at Hoggis green near Dublin on the Monday after the octaves of Easter in the year 1328. MCCCXXVIII On Tuesday in Easter-week Thomas Fitz John Earl of Kildare and Chief Justice of Ireland departed this life and was succeeded in the office of Justiciary by Frier Roger Outlaw Prior of Kilmaynan The same year David O Tothil a stout rapperie and an enemy to the King who had burnt Churches and destroy'd many people was brought out of the castle of Dublin to the Toll of the City before Nicholas Fastol and Elias Ashburne Judges of the King's-Bench who sentenc'd him to be dragg'd at a horse's tail through the City to the Gallows and to be hang'd upon a Gibbet which was after executed accordingly Item In the same year the Lord Moris Fitz Thomas rais'd a great army to destroy the Bourkeyns and the Poers The same year William Lord Bourk Earl of Ulster was knighted at London on Whitsunday and the King gave him his Seigniory Item This year James Botiller married the daughter of the Earl of Hereford in England and was made Earl of Ormond being before called Earl of Tiperary The same Year a Parliament was held at Northampton where many of the English Nobility met and a peace was renew'd between the Kingdoms of England Scotland and Ireland and confirm'd by marriages It was enacted also that the Earl of Ulster with several of the English Nobility should go to Berwick upon Tweed to see the marriage solemniz'd The same year after the solemnity of this match at Berwick was over Robert Brus King of Scots William Lord Burk Earl of Ulster the Earl of Meneteth and many other of the Scotch Nobility came very peaceably to Cragfergus whence they sent to the Justiciary of Ireland and the Council that they would meet them at Green Castle to treat about a Peace between Scotland and Ireland but the Justiciary and Council coming not accotding to the King's appointment he took his leave of the Earl of Ulster and return'd into his own Country after the Assumption of the blessed Virgin and the Earl of Ulster came to the Parliament at Dublin where he staid six days and made a great entertainment after which he went into Conaught The same year about the feast of S. Catharine the virgin the Bishop of Ossory certified to the King's Council that Sir Arnold Pour was upon divers Articles convicted before him of heresie Whereupon at the Bishop's suit Sir Arnold Poer by vertue of the King's Writ was arrested and clapt in the Castle of Dublin and a day was appointed for the Bishop's coming to Dublin in order to prosecute him but he excused himself because his enemies had way-laid him for his life So that the King's Council could not put an end to this business wherefore Sir Arnold was kept prisoner in the Castle of Dublin till the following Parliament which was in Midlent where all the Irish Nobility were present The same year Frier Roger Outlaw Prior of the Hospital of S. John of Jerusalem in Ireland Lord Justice and Chancellor of Ireland was scandalized by the said Bishop for favouring heresies and for advising and abetting Sir Arnold in his heretical practice Wherefore the Frier finding himself so unworthily defamed petitioned the King's Council that he might have leave to clear himself which upon consultation they granted and caused it to be proclaim'd for three days together That if there were any person who could inform against the said Frier he should come in and prosecute him but no body came Upon which Roger the Frier procured the King 's Writ to summon the Elders of Ireland viz. the Bishops Abbots Priors and the Mayors of Dublin Cork Limerick Waterford and Drogheda also the Sheriffs and Seneschals together with the Knights of the Shires and the better sort of Free-holders to repair to Dublin out of which six were chosen to examine the cause viz. M. William Rodyard Dean of the Cathedral-Church of S. Patrick in Dublin the Abbot of S. Thomas the Abbot of S. Mary's the Prior of the Church of the holy Trinity in Dublin M. Elias Lawles and Mr. Peter Willebey who convened those who were cited and examined them all apart who deposed upon their Oaths that he was a very honest faithful and zealous embracer of the Christian Faith and would if occasion serv'd lay down his Life for it And because his vindication was so solemn he made a noble entertainment for all them who would come The same year in Lent died Sir Arnold Pouer in the Castle of Dublin and lay a long time unburied in the house of the predicant Friers MCCCXXIX After the feast of the annunciation of the bless'd Virgin Mary the Irish nobility came to the Parliament at Dublin to wit the Earl of Ulster Moris Lord Fitz Thomas the Earl of Louth William Bermingham and the rest of the Peers where was a new peace made between the Earl of Ulster and my Lord Moris Fitz-Thomas and the Lords with the King's Council made an Order against riots or any other breach of the King's peace so that every Nobleman should govern within his own Seignory The Earl of Ulster made a great feast in the Castle of Dublin and the day after the Lord Moris Fitz-Thomas made another in S. Patrick's Church in Dublin as did also Frier Roger Outlaw Lord Chief Justice of Ireland on the third day at Kylmaynan and after this they went all home again The same year on S. Barnaby's eve Sir John Bermingham Earl of Louth was kill'd at Balybragan in Urgale by the inhabitants and with him his own brother Peter Bermingham besides Robert Bermingham his reputed brother and Sir John Bermingham son to his brother Richard Lord of Anry William Finne Bermingham the Lord Anry's Uncle's son Simon Bermingham the aforesaid William's son Thomas Berminghan son to Robert of Conaught Peter Bermingham son to James of Conaught Henry Bermingham of Conaught and Richard Talbot of Malaghide a man of great courage besides 200 men whose names are not known After this slaughter Simon Genevils men invaded the Country of Carbry that they might by their plunder ruin the inhabitants for the thefts and murders they had so often committed in Meth but by their rising they prevented the invasion and slew 76 of the Lord Simon 's men The same year also on the day after Trinity-sunday John Gernon and his brother Roger Gernon came to Dublin in the behalf of those of Urgale that they might be tried by the Common-law And on the Tuesday after S. John's-day John and Roger hearing the Lord William Bermingham was a coming to Dublin left
rich man died this year This Continuation following is took from a Manuscript Chronicle in the Hands of Henry Marleburgh MCCCLXXII SIr Robert Ashton being made Chief Justice came into Ireland MCCCLXXIII A great war between the English of Meth and O-Feroll with much slaughter on both sides Item John Lord Husse Baron of Galtrim John Fitz Richard Sheriff of Meth and William Dalton were in May kill'd by the Irish in Kynaleagh MCCCLXXV Died Thomas Archbishop of Dublin the same year Robert of Wickford was consecrated Archbishop of this see MCCCLXXXI Edmund Mortimer the King's Lieutenant in Ireland Earl of March and Ulster died at Cork MCCCLXXXIII A raging pestilence in Ireland MCCCLXXXV Dublin bridge fell down MCCCXC Died Robert Wikford Archbishop of Dublin Robe●t Waldebey Archbishop of Dublin of the order of the Austin Friers was translated also this year MCCCXCVII Died Frier Richard Northalis Archbishop of Dublin of the order of the Carmelites This year Thomas Crauley was consecrated Archbishop of Dublin Thomas Lord Burk and Walter Lord Bermingham cut off 600 of the Irish and Mac Con their Captain * Read Roger. Edmund Earl of March Lieutenant of Ireland with the assistance of the Earl of Ormond wasted the Country of O Bryn and knighted Christopher Preston John Bedeleu Edmund Loundris John Loundry William Nugent Walter de la Hide and Rober Cadel at the storming of a strong mannor-house of the said O Bryn MCCCXCVIII Forty English among whom were John Fitz Williams Thomas Talbot and Thomas Comyn were unfortunately cut off on the Ascension day by the Tothils On S. Margaret's day this year Roger Earl of March the King's Lieutenant was slain with many others by O Bryn and other Irish of Leinster at Kenlys in that province Roger Grey was appointed to succeed him in the office of Chief Justice On the Feast of S. Mark Pope and Confessor the noble Duke of Sutherey came into Ireland being made the King's Deputy Lieutenant thereof accompanied with the Archbishop of Dublin Thomas Crawley MCCCXCIX In the 23d year of King Richard being Sunday the very morrow after S. Petronil or Pernil the Virgin 's day King Richard arriv'd at Waterford with 200 sail At Ford in Kenlys within Kildare on the 6th day of this week two hundred of the Irish were slain by Jenicho and others of the English the next day the people of Dublin made an inroad into the Country of O Bryn cut off 33 of the Irish and took to the number of 80 men and women with their children prisoners The King came to Dublin this year on the fourth before the kalends of July and embark'd in great haste for England upon a report of Henry duke of Lancaster's being arriv'd there MCCCC At Whitsontide in the first year of King Henry IV. the Constable of Dublin-castle and several others engag'd the Scots at Stranford in Ulster which prov'd unfortunate to the English many of them being cut off and drown'd in that encounter MCCCCI In the second year of this reign Sir John Stanley the King's Lieutenant went over into England in May leaving Sir William Stanley to supply his office On Bartholomew-eve this year Stephen Scrope came into Ireland as Deputy to the Lord Thomas of Lancaster the King's Lieutenant The same year on the feast of S. Brice Bishop and Confessor Thomas Lord Lancaster the King's son being Viceroy of Ireland arriv'd at Dublin MCCCCII The Church of the Friers Predicants at Dublin was consecrated on the 5th of July by the Archbishop of this City The same day 493 Irish were slain by John Drake Mayor of Dublin assisted with the Citizens and the Country people near Bree where they gain'd a considerable victory In September this year a Parliament was held at Dublin Sir Bartholomew Verdon James White Stephen Gernon and their accomplices kill'd John Dowdal Sheriff of Louith in Urgal during this session MCCCCIII In the fourth year of King Henry IV. Sir Walter Beterley a valiant Knight then steward there with thirty more was kill'd in May. About the feast of S. Martin this year the King's Son Thomas went over into Enlgand leaving Stephen Scroop to officiate as his Deputy who return'd also on the first day of Lent into England after which the Lords of the Kingdom chose the Earl of Ormond Lord Chief Justice of Ireland MCCCCIV In the 5th Year of King Henry's reign died John Cowlton Archbishop of Armagh on the 5th of May and was succeeded by Nicholas Fleming The same year on S. Vitali's day a Parliament was held at Dublin by the Earl of Ormond at that time Chief Justice of the Kingdom where the Statutes of Kilkenny and Dublin and the Charter of Ireland was confirm'd Patrick Savage was this year treacherously slain in Ulster by Mac Kilmori his brother Richard being also given in hostage was murder'd in prison after he had paid a ransom of 200 marks MCCCCV In the 6th year of King Henry three Scotch Galleys two at Green Castle and one at Dalkey were taken in May with the Captain Thomas Mac Golagh The merchants of Tredagh entred Scotland this year and took hostages and booty The same year Stephen Scroop went into England leaving the Earl of Ormond to officiate as Justice during his absence In June this year the people of Dublin invaded Scotland entering it at S. Ninians where they gallantly behav'd themselves after which they made a descent upon Wales and did great hurt among the Welsh in this expedition they carried the shrine of S. Cubie to the Church of the Holy Trinity in Dublin Item This year on the vigil of the blessed Virgin died James Botiller Earl of Ormond at Baligauran during his office he was much lamented and succeeded by Gerald Earl of Kildare MCCCCVI In the seventh year of King Richard the Dublinians on Corpus Christi day with the assistance of the country people overcame the Irish and kill'd some of them they took three ensigns and carried off several of their heads to Dublin The same year the Prior of Conal in a battle with 200 well-arm'd Irish on the Plain of Kildare vanquish'd them by his great valour killing some and putting the rest to flight The Prior and his party were not above twenty such is the regard of Providence to those that trust in it The same year after the feast of S. Michael Scroop Deputy Justice to Thomas the King's son Viceroy of Ireland arriv'd here The same year died Innocentius VII succeeded in the chair by Gregory The same year on S. Hilaries-day a Parliament was held at Dublin which broke up in Lent at Trym Meiler Bermingham slew Cathol O Conghir in the latter end of February about the same time died Sir Geffery Vaux a valiant Knight of the County of Carlagh MCCCCVII A perfidious base Irishman call'd Mac Adam Mac Gilmori never christen'd and therefore call'd Morbi nay one that had been the ruin of forty Churches took Patrick Savage prisoner forc'd him to pay 2000 marks for ransom
perswasion and a well-grounded zeal let the world judge After so many testimonies Mr. Camden might very well say Epist 19● My Life and my Writings shall apologize for me and despise the reproaches of one Ibid. Who did not spare the most Reverend and Learned Prelates of our Church Epist 195. nor was asham'd to bely the Lords Deputies of Ireland and others of honourable rank In his Writings he was candid and modest in his conversation easie and innocent and in his whole Life eaven and exemplary He dy'd at Chesilhurst the ninth day of November 1623. in the 'T is by a mistake in his Monument 74. 73d year of his Age. Being remov'd from London on the nineteenth of the same Month he was carry'd to Westminster-Abbey in great pomp The whole College of Heralds attended in their proper habits great numbers of the Nobility and Gentry accompany'd and at their entrance into the Church the Prebends and the other Members receiv'd the Corps in their Vestments with great solemnity and conducted it into the Nave of the Church After the Funeral-Sermon preach'd by Dr. Sutton one of the Prebends they buried him in the South-Isle hard by the learned Casaubon and over against the ingenious Chaucer Over the place is a handsome Monument of white Marble with his Effigies to the middle and in his hand a Book with BRITANNIA inscrib'd on the Leaves Under this is the following Inscription QUI FIDE ANTIQUA ET OPERA ASSIDUA BRITANNICAM ANTIQUITATEM INDAGAVIT SIMPLICITATEM INNATAM HONESTIS STUDIIS EXCOLUIT ANIMI SOLERTIAM CANDORE ILLUSTRAVIT GUILIELMUS CAMDENUS A B. ELIZABETHA R. AD. REGIS ARMORUM CLARENTII TITULO DIGNITATEM EVOCATUS HIC SPE CERTA RESURGENDI IN CHRISTO S. E. Q. OBIIT AN. DNI 1623. 9 NOVEMBRIS AETATIS SUAE 74. M R CAMDEN's PREFACE I Think I may without the least scruple address the courteous Reader in the same words I made use of twenty years ago upon the first Edition of this Book with some very small additions The great Restorer of the old Geography Abraham Ortelius thirty years ago did very earnestly sollicit me to acquaint the World with Britain that ancient Island that is to restore Britain to its Antiquities and its Antiquities to Britain to renew the memory of what was old illustrate what was obscure and settle what was doubtful and to recover some certainty as much as possible in our affairs which either the carelesness of Writers or credulity of vulgar Readers had totally bereft us of A great attempt indeed not to say impossible to which undertaking as no one scarce imagines the Industry requisite so no one really believes it but he who has made the experiment himself Yet as the difficulty of the design discourag'd me on the one side so the honour of my native Country encourag'd me on the other insomuch that whilst I dreaded the task and yet could not decline doing what I was able for the Glory of my Country I found I know not how the greatest contrarieties Fear and Courage which I thought could never have met in one man in strict confederacy within my own Breast However by the blessing of God and my own Industry I set about the work full of resolution thought study and daily contrivance and at spare times devoted my self wholly to it I have made but a timorous search after the Etymology of Britain and its first Inhabitants nor have I positively asserted what admits of doubt for I very well know that the original of Countries are obscure and altogether uncertain over-run as it were with the rust of age and like objects at a great distance from the beholders scarce visible Thus the courses and mouths of great Rivers their turnings their confluence are all well known whilst their Springs for the generality lye hid and undiscover'd I have traced the ancient divisions of Britain and have made a summary Report of the States and judicial Courts of these flourishing Kingdoms of England Scotland and Ireland I have compendiously settl'd the bounds of each County but not by measure and examin'd the nature of the soil the places of greatest antiquity what Dukes what Earls what Barons there have been I have set down some of the most ancient and honourable Families for 't is impossible to mention them all Let them censure my performance who are able to make a true judgment which perhaps will require some consideration but Time that uncorrupted witness will give the best information when Envy that preys upon the living shall hold its peace Yet this I must say for my self that I have neglected nothing that could give us any considerable light towards the discovery of hidden Truth in matters of Antiquity having gotten some insight into the old British and Saxon Tongues for my assistance I have travell'd very near all over England and have consulted in each County the men of best skill and most general intelligence I have diligently perus'd our own Writers as well as the Greek and Latin ones that mention the least tittle of Britain I have examin'd the publick Records of this Kingdom Ecclesiastical Registers and Libraries Acts Monuments and Memorials of Churches and Cities I have search'd the ancient Rolls and cited them upon occasion in their own stile tho' never so barbarous that by such unquestionable evidence Truth might be restor'd and vindicated Yet possibly I may seem guilty of imprudence and immodesty who tho' but a smatterer in the business of Antiquities have appear'd a scribler upon the stage of this learned age expos'd to the various censures of wise and judicious men But to speak the truth sincerely the natural affection I have for my Country which includes the good will of all the glory of the British original and perswasion of Friends have conquer'd that shyness of mine and forc'd me whether I would or no against my own judgment to undertake a work I am so unfit to prosecute for which I expect on all sides to be attack'd with prejudice censure detraction and reproach Some there are who cry down the study of Antiquity with much contempt as too curious a search after what is past whose authority as I shall not altogether slight so I shall not much regard their judgment Nor am I wholly without reasons sufficient to gain the approbation of men of honesty and integrity who value the honour of their native Country by which I can recommend to them in these studies a great deal of pleasure and satisfaction of mind becoming men of breeding and quality But if there are such men to be found who would be strangers to Learning and their own Country and Foreigners in their own Cities let them please themselves I have not wrote for such humours There are others perhaps who will cavil at the meanness and roughness of my language and the ungentileness of my stile I frankly confess Neither is every word weigh'd in Varro's scale nor did I design to gratifie the Reader with a nosegay
Genium cujus te tibi reddit amor Foelix ipse suo libro foelicior ipsa Praeconem talem laudis habere tuae Plus loquar an sileam video tantum instar in ipso Quas Musas vocitem sed mea Musa sile Parcus amor loquitur major stupefactus adegit Mirari hoc tacitè nec scio solus opus In Britanniam à Guil. Camdeno illustratam F. Adarb Carmen PIctus atrox Hebridas glacialem Scotus Hibernem Moverat Attacotus Vararim Saxoque Visurgim Conjunctis armis animisque excindere gentes Subruere eximias cumulatis cladibus urbes Atque Britannorum nomen demergere bellis Ut tamen emergant quae sunt immersa ruinis Et decus antiquum rediviva Britannia cernat Ecce vetustatem Camdenius eruit omnem Magnarum rerum scrutatus magna sepulchra Submovit cineres nigrantes dispulit umbras Inque prius retrò studiis se contulit aevum Contulit atque decus patriaeque sibique labore In antiquam Camdeni Britanniam H.N.L. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 PRisca Britannorum delevit nomina Tempus Antiquas urbes exitióque dedit Cuncta triumphato Camdenus tempore reddit Ingenio priscum restituitque decus Ingenio cedat Tempus cedatque vetustas Ingenium majus Tempore robur habet Ad eundem ERrabat quaerens Antiqua Britannia lumen At Camdene tuam venit ut illa domum Invenit lumen mansit cupiensque poliri Hospes ait mihi sis qui mihi lumen eris I. W. BRITANNIA SI jactare licet magnorum munera divûm Sibique veris fas placere dotibus Cur mihi non videar fortunatissima tellus Digna est malis bona quae parùm novit sua Vltima lanigeris animosa est India lucis Suis superbus est Arabs odoribus Thuriferis gaudet Panchaia dives arenis Ibera flumen terra jactat aureum Aegypto faciunt animos septem ostia Nili Laudata Rheni vina tollunt accolas Laeta nec uberibus sibi displicet Africa glebis Haec portubus superbit illa mercibus At mihi nec fontes nec ditia flumina desunt Sulcive pingues prata nec ridentia Foeta viris foecunda feris foecunda metallis Ne glorier quòd ambiens largas opes Porrigit Oceanus neu quòd nec amicius ullâ Coelum nec aura dulciùs spirat plagâ Serus in occiduas mihi Phoebus conditur undas Sororque noctes blanda ducit lucidas Possem ego laudati contemnere vellera Boetis Vbi villus albis mollior bidentibus Et tua non nequeam miracula temnere Memphi Verùm illa major justiorque gloria Quòd Latiis quòd sum celebrata Britannia Graiis Orbem vetustas quòd vocârit alteru● A CATALOGUE OF SOME Books and Treatises Relating to the ANTIQUITIES of ENGLAND Topographical Surveys of England in general ANtoninus's Itinerary Notitia Occidentalis Imperii Robert of Glocester in his Chronicle of England MS. has given us the length and breadth of England Comment upon the Itinerary of Antoninus by Mr. Talbot MS. This was much improv'd by Dr. Caius of Cambridge and is now in Caius-College in 2 Volumes Comment upon the same Itinerary by Mr. Burton Leland's Itinerary MS. in the Bodleian Library several Transcripts whereof have been taken by Gentlemen of Curiosity Harrison's History of England printed in Holinshed's Chronicle Drayton's Polyolbion Fuller's Worthies of England Dugdale's Baronage of England Monasticon Anglicanum Templa Druidum Monumenta Britannica c. being large Collections and curious observations relating to the Antiquities of England in four Volumes MS. By Mr. John Aubrey Fellow of the Royal Society Blome's Britannia Wright's three years Travels and other Surveys of England printed since 1607. are little more than Extracts out of Mr. Camden BARKSHIRE A Discourse of the Antiquities of the Castle of Windsor and Chapel there in Mr. Ashmole's Order of the Garter BEDFORDSHIRE AN account of a strange Tempest of Wind Thunder and Lightning at Bedford Aug. 19. 1672. CAMBRIDGESHIRE THE History of the University of Cambridge since the Conquest by Dr. Thomas Fuller by way of Appendix to his Church-History of Britain In Sir William Dugdale's History of Imbanking are several things relating to the Fenny part of this Country The Antiquity of Cambridge by Dr. John Caius A MS. Treatise call'd ...... Cantabrigiensis MS. by Richard Parker Fellow of Caius-College in Cambridge 'T is mention'd in Fuller's Worthies pag. 159. Mr. Loggan a little before his death took the prospects of the publick buildings and Colleges in this University CHESHIRE SIR Peter Leicester's Antiquities of Cheshire 1673. An Answer to Sir Peter Leicester's Addenda or something to be added in his Answer to Tho. Manwaring by the said Sir Tho. 1673 4. A Description Historical and Geographical of Cheshire by Dan. King 1656. A Manuscript in the Herald's Office relating to the County of Chester by William Smith CORNWALL A Map of Cornwall by Mr. Norden for the perfecting whereof he took a journey thither Camden's Epist p. 72. A Survey of Cornwall by Richard Carew of Antony Esq 1602. The same Book with several Additions is now in the hands of Mr. Chiswell Historical Account of Cornwall by John Norden MS. in the hands of Dr. Gale The Laws and Customs of the Stannaries CVMBERLAND A Genealogical Account of the Families in Cumberland by Mr. Denton A Manuscript copy'd into several hands The Ecclesiastical History of Cumberland since the Foundation of the Bishoprick of Carlisle by Dr. Hugh Todd Prebendary of that Church and Fellow of University-College in Oxon. MS. Natural History of Cumberland in Dr. Plot 's method as to the main by Mr. Nicolson Arch-deacon of Carlisle MS. DERBYSHIRE A Collection of the Laws Liberties Customs c. of the several Mines and Miners in Derbyshire by Thomas Houghton Lond. 1687. 12o. The benefit of the ancient Baths of Buxton-wells by John Jones Med. 1572. Several Observations relating to Buxton-Wells in this County MS. A Description of a monstrous Giant discover'd by a certain Labourer in this County Publisht 1661. A Discourse upon the twelve Months fasting of Martha Taylor a famous Derbyshire Girl not far from Bake-well Publisht by John Reynolds 1669. The Wonders of the Peak written in Latin-Verse by Mr. Hobbes The Wonders of the Peak by Charles Cotton Esq in English Verse 'T is said he first wrote it in the Dialect of that County and made a Glossary to it but what became of it I know not The Liberties and Customs of the Lead Mines within the Wapentake of Wirksworth in the County of Derby by Edw. Manlow Esq 1653. DEVONSHIRE A Survey of Devonshire MS. by Thomas Risdon● who dy'd An. 1636. Wood's Athenae Vol. 1. pag 516. Collections out of the Records Deeds c. belonging to the Church of Exeter MS. by Mr. Pasmor The Antiquities and Description of the City of Exeter by John Hooker 1584. The same Book reprinted in Holinshed's Chronicle Exeter described and illustrated by Mr. Isaaks Of a considerable Load-stone dug out of the ground in
Devonshire weighing 60 pound c. Philosoph Transact Numb 23. 1666. DVRHAM THe Antiquities of the Cathedral Church of Durham collected out of ancient Manuscripts about the time of the Suppression and publisht by Jo. Davies of Kidwelly 1672. The Legend of St. Cuthbert with the Antiquities of the Church of Durham by B. R. Esq 1663. A short Treatise of an ancient Fountain or Vitriolin-Spaw near the City of Durham by E. W. Dr. of Physick 1675. Large Collections relating to the Antiquities of this Bishoprick were made by Mr. Mickleton a very excellent Antiquary ESSEX THe History of Waltham-Abbey by Dr. Fuller then Curate there Lond. 1655. fol. Printed at the end of his Church-History Survey of the County of Essex in a thin Folio MS. by John Norden now in the Library of Sir Edmund Turner 'T is said that Mr. Strangman of Hadley-Castle in Suffolk hath written the Antiquities of Essex It still remains in Manuscript but in what hands I know not A Description of Harwich and Dover-Court by Silas Tailor MS. Mr. John Ouseley Rector of Pantfield a person admirably well verst in the History of our Nation has spent many years in collecting the Antiquities of this County wherein he has been very much assisted by that hopeful young Gentleman Mr. Nicholas Zeakill of Castle-Hedingham who freely communicated the Copies of many publick Records and 't is his request to all who are possest of any Papers relating to Essex that they would likewise please to communicate them It is not long before the World may expect the Work if it meet with that encouragement from the Gentry which an Undertaking of this Nature may justly require GLOCESTERSHIRE THe Laws and Customs of the Miners in the Forest of Dean in the County of Glocester Lond. 1687. 12o. Proposals for printing the Antiquities of Glocestershire were publisht An. 1683. by Mr. Abel Wantner Citizen of Glocester and inhabitant of Minchin-Hampton in the same County He had been twelve years in the collecting but not meeting I suppose with answerable encouragement the Book remains still in Manuscript Annalia Dubrensia upon the yearly celebration of Mr. Robert Dover's Olympick-Games upon Cotswold hills written by 33 of the best Poets of that time Publisht 1636. The Military Government of the City of Glocester by John Corbet Publisht 1651. Certain Speeches made upon the day of the yearly Election of the Officers of the City of Glocester publisht by Jo. Dorne Esq Town-Clerk of the said City An. 1653. Collections relating to the Antiquities of this County were made by Judge Hales which are now I think in Lincolns-Inn-Library London among his other Manuscripts A Description and Draught of Pen-park-hall by Sir Robert Southwell Philosoph Transact Numb 143. 1682 3. A strange and wonderful Discovery of Houses under ground at Cottons-field in Glocestershire HAMSHIRE THe Antiquities and Description of Winchester with an Historical Relation touching several memorable Occurrences relating to the same with a Preamble of the Original of Cities in general Folio MS. by Mr. Trussel A Treatise of the Antiquities of the same City is written by Dr. Bettes MS. Some Remarkables concerning the Monuments in the ancient City of Winchester by Mr. Butler of S. Edmonds-bury The Lieger-Book of S. Crosse MS. in Vellam in the hands of Henry Worsley of Lincolns-Inn Esq HERTFORDSHIRE THe Antiquities of this County are now prepared for the Press by Sir Henry Chancey Kt. Serjeant at Law HVNTINGDONSHIRE HUntingdon-Divertisement or an Interlude for the general Entertainment of the County-feast held at Merchant-Tailors-hall June 30. 1678. Sir Robert Cotton made some progress towards a Survey of this County KENT PErambulation of Kent by William Lambert of Lincolns-Inn Gent. Lond. 1576. 1596. c. A brief Survey of the County of Kent by Richard Kilbourn Lond. 1657. 1659. Philpot's Survey of Kent Another Survey of this County was writ by Mr. Norden and is still in Manuscript The Monuments in this County are collected by John Wever in his Funeral Monuments The History of Gavelkind or the Local Customs of Kent by Mr. Somner An. 1660. The Forts and Ports in Kent by Mr. Somner with the Life of the Author by Mr. Kennet Publish't by Mr. James Brome Oxon. 1693. The Antiquities of Canterbury by Mr. Somner 4o. 1640. Mr. Somner's Vindication of himself about building the Market-house at Canterbury His Treatise about the Fish-bones found in Kent 4o. The Chronicle of Rochester wrote by Edmund Bedenham MS. Textus Roffensis a very ancient MS. belonging to that Church See a more particular account of it in Dr. Hickes's Catalogue MSS. at the end of his Saxon-Grammar Descriptio Itineris Plantarum investigationis ergo suscepti in agrum Cantianum 1632. Survey of the Monastery of Feversham by Tho. Southouse Lond. 1671. 12o. A Philosophical and Medicinal Essay of the Waters of Tunbridge by P. Madan M. D. 1687. LANCASHIRE MAnner of making Salt of Sea-Sand in Lancashire Ray's Northern-words pag. 209. The state of this County in respect of Religion about the beginning of King James 1. by Mr. Urmston MS. in the hands of Thomas Brotherton of Heye Esq Holingsworth's History of Manchester MS. in the Library there Borlaces Latham-Spaw LEICESTERSHIRE THe Antiquities of Leicestershire by William Burton Esq Fol. 1622. The late learned Mr. Chetwind of Staffordshire had a Copy of this in his possession with considerable Additions under the Author 's own hand A brief Relation of the Dissolution of the Earth in the Forest of Charnwood in one sheet 1679. LINCOLNSHIRE SIr William Dugdale's History of Imbanking gives a large account of several Fenns and Marshes in this County The Survey and Antiquities of the Town of Stamford in this County by Richard Butcher Gent. Publisht 1646. A Relation of the great damages done by a Tempest and Overflowing of the Tides in Lincolnshire and Norfolk 1671. MIDDLESEX NOrden's Survey of Middlesex Fitz-Stephens Survey of London The Customs of London Londonopula by James Howel Fol. The present state of London by De Laund 8o. Domus Carthusiana or the Foundation of the Charter-house by Samuel Herne Lond. 1677. Stow's Survey of London 1598. The City-Law translated out of an ancient MS. and printed 1647. Descriptio Plantarum in Ericete Hampstedi per Tho. Johnson in 12o. 1632. The Kings Queens and Nobility buried in Westminster-Abbey 1603. by Mr. Camden The same enlarged by Henr. Keepe 8o. History of S. Paul's by Sir William Dugdale 1658. Fol. The third University of England viz. London being a Treatise of all the Foundations of Colleges Inns of Court c. by Sir George Buck. 1615. Origines Juridici●les by Sir William Dugdale History of Tombs and Monuments in and about the City of London 1668. A Relation of the late dreadful Fire in London as it was reported to the Committee in Parliament 1667. Narrative of the Fire of London by Mr. Edward Waterhouse 1667. London King Charles's Augusta by Sylvanus Morgan A Poem 1648. Grant's Natural and Political Observations upon the Bills of
Mortality Foundation of the Hospitallers and Order of St. John of Jerusalem Fol. MONMOVTHSHIRE LAmentable News from Monmouthshire of the loss of 26 Parishes in a great Flood which hapn'd January 1607. Publish'd the same year The manner of the Wire-Works at Tinton in Monmouthshire Ray English words pag. 194. NORFOLK SEE Sir William Dugdale's History of Imbanking Of the lamentable Burning of East Derham in the County of Norfolk July 1. 1581. in verse black Letter publish'd 1582. History of the Norfolk-Rebels by Alexander Nevil a Kentish-man with the History of Norwich and a Catalogue of the Mayors Publish'd 1575. Norfolk's Furies or a View of Kitt's Camp with a table of the Mayors and Sheriffs of Norwich c. done out of Latin into English by R. W. 1615. The Antiquities of Norwich writ by Dr. Jo. Caius are mention'd by Dr. Fuller but still remain in Manuscript Norwich Monuments and Antiquities by Sir Thomas Brown M. D. a Manuscript in the hands of the learned Dr. More the present Bishop of Norwich Nashe's Lent-Stuff containing an account of the growth of Great Yarmouth with a Play in praise of Red-herring Publish'd 1599. A description of the town of Great Yarmouth with a Survey of Little Yarmouth incorporated with the Great c. in a sheet A Survey of Norfolk was taken by Sir Henry Spelman Knight in Latin and is still in Manuscript in the Bodleian-Library at Oxon. A relation of the damages done by a tempest and overflowing of the Tyde upon the coasts of Norfolk and Lincolnshire The West prospect of Linn-Regis a sheet Urn-burial or a discourse of the Sepulchral Urns lately found in Norfolk by Sir Thomas Brown 1669. Mercurius Centralis or a Discourse of Subterraneal Cockle Muscle and Oyster-shells found in digging of a Well at Sir William Doylie's in Norfolk by Tho. Lawrence A. M. in a Letter to Sir Tho. Browne 1664. NORTHAMPTONSHIRE HIstory of the Cathedral Church of Peterburrow by Simon Gunter Prebendary Publish'd with a large Appendix by Simon Patrick D. D. then Dean of this Church and now Bishop of Ely Fol. 1685. The Fall and Funeral of Northampton in an Elegy first publish'd in Latin since made English with some variations and addititions and publish'd An. 1677. The state of Northampton from the beginning of the Fire Sept. 20. 1675. to Nov. 5. in a Letter to a Friend 1675. Names of the Hides in Northamptonshire by Francis Tate MS. Wood's Athenae Vol. 1. p. 349. A Survey of this County is said to have been intended by Mr. Augustin Vincent Wood's Athenae vol. 1. p. 349. NORTHVMBERLAND A Chorographical Survey of Newcastle upon Tine by ..... Grey An. 1649. England's Grievances in relation to the Cole-trade with a Map of the river of Tine and the situation of the town and corporation of New-castle 1655. A Survey of the river Tine grav'd by Fathorne The Antiquities of the ancient Kingdom of Northumberland are now ready for the Press compil'd by Mr. Nicolson Archdeacon of Carlisle who designs shortly to publish the Book under this Title Norðanhymbraric or a description of the ancient Kingdom of Northumberland The work will consist of eight parts whereof he stiles the I. Northanhymbria or an account of the Bounds and natural History of the Country II. Northanhymbri the Original Language Manners and Government of the People III. Annales the Succession and History of the several Dukes Kings and Earls from the first institution of the Government down to the Conquest IV. Ecclesiastica Religious Rites observ'd by the Pagan Inhabitants before the establishment of Christianity together with the state of the Church and the succession of Bishops in it afterwards V. Literae Literati the state of Learning with a Catalogue of the Writers VI. Villare the Cities Towns Villages and other places of note in an Alphabetical Catalogue VII Monumenta Danica Danish Remains in the Language Temples Courts of Judicature Runic Inscriptions c. To the whole will be prefix'd a Prefatory Discourse of the condition these parts of the Isle were in upon and some time before the coming in of the Saxons wherein notice will be taken of many pieces of Brittish and Roman Antiquities never yet observ'd Large Collections have been made by Sir Robert Shafto relating to the Antiquities of the County of Northumberland Mr. Clavering of Callaly a very knowing Antiquary has also done great service to his native Country in this kind NOTTINGHAMSHIRE THE Antiquities of the County of Nottingham by Dr. Robert Thoroton OXFORDSHIRE MAnuscript History of Alchester in the hands of Mr. Blackwell History and Antiquities of the University of Oxford by Anthony à Wood fol. Twine's Vindication of the Antiquity of the University of Oxford Natural History of Oxfordshire by Dr. Robert Plot folio Survey of Woodstock by Mr. Widows Athen. Oxon. vol. 2. p. 119. Parochial Antiquities or the History of Ambrosden Burcester and other adjacent Towns and Villages in the North-east parts of the County of Oxford delivering the general Remains of the British Roman and Saxon Ages and a more particular account of English Memoirs reduc'd into Annals from 1 Will. Conq. to 1 Edw. 4. with several Sculptures of ancient and modern Curiosities 4o. By the Reverend Mr. White Kennet B. D. An account of an Earthquake in Oxfordshire Philosoph Transact Num. 10. p. 166. Num. 11. p. 180. A Relation of an Accident by Thunder and Lightning in Oxford Philosoph Transact Num. 13. pag. 215. RVTLANDSHIRE ANtiquities of Rutlandshire by Mr. Wright Folio SOMERSETSHIRE THE ancient Laws Customs and Orders of the Miners in the King's Forest of Mendipp in the County of Somerset London 1687. 12o. Proposals for a Natural History of Somersetshire have been publish'd by Mr. John Beaumont A Letter from Mr. Beaumont giving an account of Ookey-hole and other subterraneous Grotto's in Mendip-hills Philosoph Transact 1681. Num. 2. Ookey-hole describ'd An. 1632. Thermae Redivivae by Mr. John Chapman 1673. with an Appendix of Coriat's Rhimes of the Antiquities of the Bath Johnson in his Mercurius Britannicus hath given an account of the Antiquities of the Bath with a ground-plot of the City A Discourse of the several Bathes and hot waters at the Bath with the Lives and Characters of the Physicians that have liv'd and practis'd there Together with an Enquiry into the Nature of S. Vincent's Rock near Bristol and that of Castle Cary by Dr. Thomas Guidot Enlarg'd by the same hand with the addition of several Antiquities 1691. The Antiquities of the City of Bath collected in Latin by the same Author MS. STAFFORDSHIRE NAtural History of Staffordshire by Dr. Robert Plot. Fol. Genealogies of the Nobility and Gentry in this County MS. written by Mr. Erdswick and now in the collection of Walter Chetwind Esq who very much improv'd it SVFFOLK AN account of some Saxon Coins found in Suffolk Philosoph Transact Num. 189. 1687. WARWICKSHIRE THE Antiquities of Warwickshire by Sir William Dugdale WESTMORLAND THE Antiquities of Westmorland collected by Mr. Thomas Machel of
person still living had done the same in Oxford for the Northern Languages in general but that a sudden change of Affairs prevented him This place has been lately honour'd by giving the title of Marquess to the Right Honorable William Earl of Bedford now created Duke of Bedford This town has given several great Lawyers to the State as Sir John Glanvill a Judge Serjeant Glanvill his son and Sir John Maynard who was lately one of the Commissioners of the Great Seal of England Two miles from hence is Lamerton Lamerton parish in the Church whereof is an ancient monument of the Tremaines where may be seen the effigies or Nicholas and Andrew Tremaine twins alike in all lineaments suffer'd like pain tho' at a distance desir'd to sleep walk eat and drink together and were slain together at New-haven in France An. 1663. Nearer to the sea is Beare-Ferris Beare-Ferris so nam'd from the family call'd De Ferrariis anciently famous in this County In this parish there were Silver-mines in the reign of K. Hen. 6. which were lately re-enter'd by Sir John Maynard but have since been discontinu'd e From hence the river carries us down to Plimouth Plimouth mention'd by our Author as a town lately risen and a haven well fortify'd We may add that it had anciently but one Church till the 16 of Ch. 1. when a new one was erected and consecrated in the time of Ch. 2. Here is also a Royal Cittadel built by that King consisting of five regular Bastions and 165 guns The guns of the other fortifications added to these make up in all 253. There are two Docks begun in 1691. and finish'd in 1693. As Sir Francis Drake was born here so both he and Mr. Candish began their voyage from this town for discovery of the unknown parts of the world By his contrivance and his own proper chargo there was brought to this town a large stream from a great distance through many windings and turnings which is a great benefit to the Town carrying several Mills and serving for other common uses of the Inhabitants This place has been honour'd since Mr. Camden's time by giving the title of Earl to Charles Fitz-Charles natural son of K. Ch. 2. created July 29. in the 27th of that King f Eastward from hence is Modbery Modbery and of the Fortescues of Wimpston in that Parish was descended Chancellour Fortescue Author of the famous book De Laudibus Legum Angliae Between Modbery and Kings bridge there is a fair bridge over the river Avon about a quarter of a mile long At the mouth of the river stands S. Michael's Rock several acres over in which are to be seen the remains of an old Chappel This ancient Rhyme seems to refer to it Where Avon's waters with the sea are mixt St. Michael firmly on a rock is fixt Kings-bridge Kingsbridge is a pretty market town pleasantly situated and particularly deserves our notice for the benefaction of Mr. Crispin a late citizen of Exeter who founded here a Free-school and endow'd it Near which is Dodbrooke Dodbrooke singular for a custom of paying tithe to the Parson for a certain sort of liquor call'd White-Ale g The river Dert first runneth thro' Dertmore Dertmore a large Forest 20 miles long and 14 broad It was first made a Forest by K. John and had anciently in it many tinn-works It now yields pasture every summer to near 100000 sheep with a proportionable number of other cattle and supplies the North West and South with variety of pleasant rivers h Then to Totnes Totnes which in K. Charles the first 's time gave the title of Earl to George Lord Carew of Clopton son of Dr. George Carew Dean of Windsor Torr bay i Directly East-ward lies Torr-bay memorable for the landing of the Prince of Orange now K. William on the 5th of November An. 1688. Where we must not pass by Mary-Church being the first Church founded in this County according to tradition Near this bay is a remarkable well call'd Lay-well which ebbs and flows several times in an hour and bubbles up sometimes like a boiling pot the water as clear as crystal very cold in summer and never freezing in winter accounted by the neighbours to be medicinal in some fevers Farther up in the country is Moreley Mo●●ley remarkable for it's Church built upon this occasion In the time of Edw. 1. Sir Peter Fishacre Knight upon a controversie between him and the Parson of Woodley about tythes kill'd the Parson in a rage and being constrain'd to answer the same at Rome was by the Pope condemn'd to build this Church where he lies bury'd From hence towards Dertmore lies Wythicombe Wythicombe where in the 14 Car. 1. in a violent storm of thunder and lightning a ball of fire came into the Church in divine Service kill'd three persons wounded 62. turn'd the seats upside down c. the damages amounting to above 300 l. A like storm hapn'd at Crews Morthard Crews Morthard in this County An. 1689. which rent the steeple melted the bells lead and glass and nothing escap'd but the Communion Plate k Returning to the shore we meet with Teignmouth Teignmouth which as it formerly suffer'd by the Danes so was it of late burnt by the French l North-east from which is the river Ex upon it stands Tiverton Tiverton where Peter Blundell a Clothier built a free-school and endow'd it with a liberal maintenance for a s●hool-master and usher He gave also two fellowships and as many scholarships to Sidney College in Cambridge and one fellowship and two scholarships to Baliol College in Oxford for scholars bred up in this school m Upon the river Creden lies Kirton Kirton now no more famous for the Bishop of Exeter's house than it was in Camden's time for the College of Prebendaries For the house together with the mannour was alienated to the Killigrews so that now there do not remain the least footsteps of the Bishop's having any thing there except the name of a great meadow call'd My Lord's Meadow n The river Ex carries us to Exeter Exeter the Cathedral Church whereof our Author observes to have been enlarg'd by several hands 'T was for a long time no bigger than our Lady's Chappel An. 1112. William Warlewast Bishop of Exon. laid the foundation of the present Quire Two hundred years after Peter Quivell Bishop began the Nave of the present Church to which John Grandison Bishop made an Isle on each side An. 1450. Edmund Lacy Bishop built the Chapter-house and about the same time the Dean and Chapter built the Cloyster So that this Church was about 400 years in building and yet the symmetry of it such as one might easily imagine it the work of a single man The organ of this Church is accounted the largest in England the greatest pipe being 15 inches diameter which is two more than that of
quarries some such little miracles of sporting Nature And I have seen a stone brought from thence winded round like a serpent the head whereof tho' but imperfect jutted out in the circumference and the end of the tail was in the center u But most of them want the head In the neighbouring fields and other places hereabouts the herb Percepier ●ercepier grows naturally all the year round It is peculiar to England and one tastes in it a sort of tartness and bitterness 't is never higher than a span and grows in bushy flowers without a stalk It provokes urine strongly and quickly and there is a water distill'd out of it of great use as P. Poena in his Miscellanies upon Plants has observ'd w Scarce five miles from hence the river Avon parts Bristol in the middle ●●tow call d by the Britains Caer Oder Nant Badon i.e. the City Odera in Badon valley In the Catalogue of the Ancient Cities it is nam'd Caer Brito and in Saxon it is Brightstoƿ i.e. a famous place But a Amongst the rest Leland in his Comment upon the Cygnea cantio pag. 152. those who have affirm'd it to be the Venta Belgarum have impos'd both upon themselves and the world The City is plac'd partly in Somersetshire and partly in Glocestershire so that it does not belong to either having distinct Magistrates of it's own and being a county incorporate by it self It stands upon a pretty high g●ound between the Avon and the little river Frome what with walls and the rivers guarded very well for it was formerly enclos'd with a double wall It casts such a beautiful show both of publick and private buildings that it answers it's name and there are what they call Goutes in Latin Cloacae built in the subterraneous caverns of the earth to carry off and wash away the filth x so that nothing is wanting either for neatness or health But by this means it comes that Carts are not us'd here It is also so well furnish'd with the necessities of life and so populous that next to London and York it may justly claim a preeminence over all the cities in Britain For the trade of many nations is drawn thither by the advantage of commerce and of the harbour which brings vessels under sail into the heart of the city And the Avon swells so much by the coming in of the tide when the Moon descends from the Meridian and passes the place opposite that ships upon the shallows are born up 11 or 12 fathoms The citizens themselves drive a rich trade throughout Europe and make voyages to the remotest parts of America At what time and by whom it was built is hard to say but it seems to be of a late date since in all the Danish plunders it is not so much as mention'd in our Histories For my part I am of opinion it rose in the decline of the Saxon government since it is not taken notice of before the year of our Lord 1063. wherein Harald as Florence of Worcester has it set sail from Brytstow to Wales with a design to invade it In the beginning of the Norman times Berton an adjoyning farm and this Bristow paid to the King as 't is in Domesday book 110 marks of silver and the Burgesses return'd that Bishop G. had 33 marks ●●am of ●●●ster and 1 mark of gold y Afterwards Robert Bishop of Constance plotting against William Rufus chose this for a seat of war and fortify'd the little city with that inner wall I suppose part of which remains to this day z But a few years after the Suburbs began to enlarge on every side for on the south Radcliff where were some little houses belonging to the suburbs is joyn'd to the rest of the city by a stone-bridge which is so set with houses that you would not think it a bridge but a street This part is included within the walls and the inhabitants have the privileges of citizens There are hospitals built in all parts for the poor and neat Churches for the glory of God Amongst the rest the most beautiful is S. Mary's of Radcliffe without the walls into which is a stately ascent by a great many stairs So large is it the workmanship so exquisite and the roof so artificially vaulted with stone and the tower so high that in my opinion it goes much beyond all the Parish Churches in England I have yet seen In it the founder William Canninges has two honorary monuments the one is his image in the habit of a Magistrate for he was five times Mayor of this City the other an image of the same person in Clergy-man's habit for in his latter days he took Orders and was Dean of the College which himself founded at Westbury Hard by it is also another Church call'd Temple the tower whereof as often as the bell rings moves to and again so as to be quite parted from the rest of the building and there is such a chink from top to bottom that the gaping is three fingers broad when the bell rings growing first narrower then again broader Nor must we omit taking notice of S. Stephen's Church the stately tower whereof was in the memory of our grandfathers built by one Shipward 41 Aliàs B●rstaple a citizen and merchant with great charge and curious workmanship On the east also and north parts it was enlarg'd with very many buildings and those too included within the walls being defended by the river Frome which after it has pass'd by these walls runs calmly into the Avon making a quiet station for ships and a creek convenient to load and unload wares which they call the Kay Under this The marsh between the confluence of Avon and Frome is a champain ground which is set round with trees and affords a pleasant walk to the citizens Upon the south-east where the rivers do not encompass it Robert natural son to King Henry 1. commonly call'd Robert Rufus Consul of Glocester because he was Earl of Glocester built a large and strong Castle for the defence of his city a and out of a pious inclination set aside every tenth stone for the building of a Chappel near the Priory of S. James which he also erected just under the City He took to wife Mabil daughter and sole heir of Robert Fitz-Hamon who held this city in fealty of William the Norman This castle yet scarce finish'd was besieg'd by King Stephen but he was forc'd to draw off without doing any thing and the same person not many years after being prisoner there was a fair instance how uncertain the events of war are Beyond the river Frome over which at Frome-gate is a bridge one goes obliquely up a high hill of a steep and difficult ascent from whence there is a pleasant prospect of the City and haven below it This upon the top runs into a large and green plain shaded all along the middle with a double rank of trees
and d Canute is here put erroneously for Swain as is evident by the concurring testimony of Historians Canute the Dane damnify'd it very much by fire about A. D. 1003. w It recover'd it's ancient splendour when by the authority of a e Enacting A. 1076. that all Bishops Sees should be removed into great Towns out of Villages Synod and the munificence of William the Conqueror Herman Bishop of Shirburn and Sunning translated his seat hither and his immediate Successor Osmund built the Cathedral Church And the said William 1. after he had made the survey of England summon'd all the Estates of the Kingdom hither to swear Allegiance to him at which time as it is in Domesday book Salisbury gelded for 50 hides Money by weight and by tale and of the third penny the King had xx s. by weight and of the increase lx lb by tale This I observe because not only the Romans but also our Ancestors used to weigh as well as tell their money Not long after in the reign of Richard 1. f It should be Henry 3. by reason of the insolencies of the garrison-souldiers x 20 Against the Churchmen and the scarcity of water 21 The Churchmen first and then c. the inhabitants began to remove and seated themselves in a low ground which at the conflux of the Avon and the Nadder is as it were a rendezvous of many waters scarce a mile distant toward the south-east Of this removal Petrus Blesensis maketh mention in his g Epist 105. Epistles New Sarisbury for thus he describes Old Sarum It was a place exposed to the winde barren dry and solitary a Tower was there as in Siloam by which the inhabitants were for a long time enslaved And afterward The Church of Salisbury was a captive on that hill let us therefore in God's name go down into the level there the vallies will yield plenty of corn and the champagn fields are of a rich soil And of the same place the foremention'd Poet thus writes Quid domini domus in castro nisi foederis arca In templo Baalim carcer uterque locus A Church within a Camp looks just as well As th' ark of God in the vile house of Baal And thus described the place to which they descended Est in valle locus nemori venatibus apto Contiguus celeber fructibus uber aquis Tale creatoris matri natura creata Hospitium toto quaesiit orbe diu Nigh a fair chase a happy vale there lies Where early fruit the burden'd trees surprize And constant springs with gentle murmurs rise Not careful Nature o're the world could meet With such another for our Lady's seat As soon as they were removed that they might begin at the house of God Richard Poor the Bishop in a pleasant meadow before call'd Merifield laid the foundation of the great Church a stately pile of building y The which with it's h The tower and steeple from the floor of the Church is 410 foot high high steeple and double cross-isles by it's venerable grandeur strikes it's spectators with a sacred joy and was in 43 years space finished at great expence and dedicated A. D. 1258. in the presence of K. Henry 3. whereof that ancient Poetaster hath these not contemptible verses Regis enim virtus templo spectabitur isto Praesulis affectus artificumque fides The Prince's piety the Workman's skill The Bishop's care the stately pile shall tell But much better are the verses of the famous and learned Daniel Rogers Mira canam soles quot continet annus in unâ Tam numerosa ferunt aede fenestra micat Marmoreasque capit fusas tot ab arte columnas Comprensas horas quot vagus annus habet Totque patent portae quot mensibus annus abundat Res mira at verâ res celebrata fide † Dr. He●●● How many days in one whole year there be So many windows in our Church we see So many marble pillars there appear As there are hours thro'out the fleeting year So many gates as moons one year does view Strange tales to tell yet not so strange as true For they say this Church hath as many windows as there are days in the year as many pillars and pillasters as there are hours and as many gates as months On the south-side of the Church is the Cloyster as great and of as fine workmanship as any in England to which is adjoyn'd the Bishop's stately Palace on the north side stands apart from the Cathedral a very strong built and high Bell-tower This Church in a short time so increas'd in ornaments and revenues that it maintains a Dean a Chanter a Chancellor a Treasurer and 33 Prebendaries z all very well endow'd some of which whom they call Canons Resident have very good houses not far from the Church and all these are inclosed with a wall apart from the town Whilst the Bishop was building the house of God the Citizens in like manner with great forwardness founded the City settled the Civil government thereof supplied every street with a little rivulet of water and having obtained licence from Simon the Bishop to fortifie it they threw up a ditch on that side which is not defended by the river And to such splendour New-Salisbury arrived out of the ruines of Old-Sorbiodunum that presently after by the Royal Authority the High road into the West was turn'd thro' this town it became the second City in those parts being very populous abounding in plenty of all things especially fish and adorn'd with a very fine Council-house of wood which standeth in a spacious well-furnish'd Market-place But it hath nothing of which it can brag so much as of John Jewell late Bishop of this place the wonder of his age for Divinity and a strenuous defender of the Reformed Religion After this Old Sarum still decreasing was in the reign of Henry 7. wholly deserted so that now there scarce remaineth a turret of the castle yet for a long time after the inhabitants had left the town it was the seat of the Earls of Salisbury about which in the reign of Edward 3. there was a noted controversie 29 Edw. Term. ●lar For Robert Bishop of Sarum by vertue of a Writ which our Lawyers call Breve de Recto ● Duel a● out the Castle of ●ar●m or as others ●y● Shir●●● question'd the right of William Montaoute E of Sarum to this Castle The Earl answered he would defend his right by Combat q So on the day appointed the Bishop brought to the lists his Champion clad in a white garment to the mid leg over which he had a Surcoat of the Bishop's Coat of Arms there follow'd him a Knight carrying the spear and a Page the shield Presently after the Earl led in his Champion arrayed after the same manner accompanied by two Knights bearing white staves And just as the Champions were about to fight whilst they withdrew that
has been a long series of successors no less eminent for wealth and honour than for piety and devotion 5 But among others St. Swithin continues yet of greatest fame not so much for his sanctity as for the rain which usually falls about the feast of his translation in July by reason the Sun then is Cosmically with Praesepe and Aselli noted by ancient writers to be rainy Constellations and not for his weeping or other weeping Saints Margaret the Virgin and Mary Magdalen whose feasts are shortly after as some superstitiously credulous have believed and by a peculiar privilege are Chancellors to the Archbishop of Canterbury and Prelates of the Garter Some of these at great expence have beautify'd and enlarg'd this Church particularly Edington and Walkeling but above all Wickham who with incredible cost built the West part of the Church from the Choire a neat and curious piece of work in the middle of which between two pillars is his own monument The Church has been accordingly dedicated to new Patrons Amphibalus Peter Swithin and lastly to the Holy Trinity by which name it is at present call'd Among the Saxons it was in great repute for being honour'd with the Sepulture of some of their Kings whose bones were gathered by Richard Fox Bishop and put into little gilded Coffins which with their several Inscriptions he placed upon a wall that runs along the upper part of the Quire It was formerly call'd h Ealdan-Mynster Chron. Sax. Ealden-mynster i.e. the old Monastery or Minster to distinguish it from the more modern one i Niwan-Mynster Chron. Sax. Neƿan-mynster i.e. New Minster which King Aelfred founded and to build the Offices belonging to it bought of the Bishop a certain peice of ground for every foot whereof he paid one Mark according to the publick Standard This new College as well as the old one was first founded for marry'd Priests who were afterwards expelled by Dunstan Archbishop of Canterbury upon the miracle of a Cross speaking and condemning the Order and so Monks were brought into their room These two Monasteries had their walls so near one another that when they were singing in one the noise was a disturbance to the other upon which arose some quarrels between the two Societies that afterwards broke out into feuds This reason and another inconvenience of a great confluence of waters which ran down the streets from the West-gate and making a standing pool at this new Monastery did infect the air with unwholsome vapours caus'd the Church 200 years after it's first building to be remov'd into the northern suburbs to a place call'd Hide Hide-Abby where by the licence of Henry 1. the Monks built a large and beautiful Monastery which within a few years by the treachery of Henry of Blois Bishop of Winchester as a private little History of that place tells us was miserably burnt down in which fire was consum'd that famous Cross the gift of Canute the Dane that as some old Records deliver it cost him the yearly revenue of all England But the Monastery was raised again to a noble fabrick as the present ruines testifie and grew by degrees till that fatal period for the destruction of Monks For then this house was demolished and the other of St. Trinity which is the Cathedral Church upon ejection of the Monks had a new foundation of a Dean and 12 Prebendaries At the East-side of the Cathedral stands a spacious k It was built A. D. 1137. by Henry Bishop of Winchester Leiger-Book of St. Cross in the hands of Mr. Worsley palace of the Bishop's call'd Wolvesey fortify'd by several turrets almost surrounded by the river and reaching to the City-walls m In the south suburbs there is a neat College that answers it which William of Wickham Bishop of this See the greatest patron and encourager of Learning that was in England A College b●●●● by William of Wickham and whose memory shall be celebrated through all ages in the Monuments of Learning built for a publick school which affords great numbers of learned men both to Church and State In this are maintain'd gentilely a Warden 10 Fellows 2 Masters 70 Scholars l Particularly 3 Chaplains 3 Clerks an Organist 16 Choristers and the statutable servants with some others There are also other eminent buildings in this City most of them consecrated to religious uses which because time has destroy'd I have no mind to mention n tho' I cannot but take notice of that * Parthe●●●m St. Mary's Abby Nunnery or Monastery for Virgins which Aelfwide wife to King Alfred founded it having been so noble a piece of building as the ruines of it still shew and the place out of which Henry 1. Maud wife to Henry 1. took his wife Maud daughter of Malcolm King of Scots by whom the Royal families of the Saxons and Normans were united and by which means that Prince gain'd much on the affections of the English For she was great grand-daughter to Edmund Ironside by his son Edward The banished and a Lady not only endow'd with all the vertues becoming a Queen but more especially eminent for piety and devotion Whereupon this old Tetrastick was made in her commendation Prospera non laetam fecêre nec aspera tristem Aspera risus ei prospera terror erant Non decor effecit fragilem non sceptra superbum Sola potens humilis sola pudica decens Nor bless'd rejoyc'd nor when unhappy mourn'd To laughter grief and joy to fear she turn'd Nor beauty made her frail nor sceptres proud Humble tho' great and scarce more fair than good As to Guy Earl of Warwick so famous in story who in a single combat here conquer'd Colbrand that Danish † Typhoëus Giant and Waltheof Earl of Huntingdon beheaded in this place where afterward was the Chapel of St. Giles and as to the famous adjoyning Hospital of St. Cross founded by Henry de Blois Brother of King Stephen and Bishop of this City and farther endow'd by Henry de Beaufort Cardinal I shall say nothing of all these because a full relation is already given of them in our common Histories As to the Earls of Winchester Earls of Winchester to pass by Clito a Saxon who at the coming in of the Normans was depriv'd of this ancient honour King John made Saer Quincy Earl of Winchester The Quincy's Arms. whose Arms were * Baltheus militaris a Fesse with a † Lemniscus label of seven as I learn'd from his seal To him succeeded Roger his son who bore in a field Gules seven ‖ Rhombos Mascles voided Or. But he dying without Issue male the honour was extinct in him for he marry'd the oldest daughter and co-heir by a former wife of Alan Lord of Galloway in Scotland in whose right he was Constable of Scotland But by her he had only 3 daughters of whom the eldest was marry'd to William de Ferrariis Earl of
honour of the deceased party When the Roman Empire began to decline and barbarous nations made frequent incursions into their provinces then the British armies fearing they might be involv'd in the calamity of their Neighbours chose themselves Emperors first Marcus then Gratian both of whom they presently murder'd and lastly ●tura ●runt ●tantine 〈◊〉 chose ●●eror ●he sake 〈…〉 in the year 107. they * chose one Constantine purely for the sake of his name and against his own will in this city Caer Segont as Ninnius and Gervasius Dorobernensis tell us He setting sail from Britaine arrived at Bologne in France and got all the Roman forces as far as the Alps to joyn him defended Valence a city of Gaule with great resolution against the forces of Honorius the Emperor and set a garrison upon the † Rhine ●henum that was before defenseless He built several fortresses in the passages of the Alpes In Spain by the assistance of Constans his son whom from a Monk he had rais'd to the title of Augustus he was very successful and then sending letters to Honorius to beg pardon for his crime in suffering the soldiers to force upon him the Purple received back an Imperial Robe from that Emperour Buoy'd up with this he pass'd the Alpes with a design to march to Rome but hearing of the death of Alaric the Goth who had been a friend to his cause he retreated to Arles where he fixed the Imperial seat commanded the city to be call'd † after his own name ●tanti●●● and summon'd thither a solemn meeting of seven Provinces In the mean time Gerontius rais'd a faction against his Master and after he had traiterously slain Constans his son at Vienne in Gaule closely besieged Constantine the Father in Arles but while one Constantius sent by the Emperour Honorius was marching against him with an army Gerontius laid violent hands upon himself In the mean time Constantine being reduc'd to great necessity by the closeness of this siege and by some unhappy sallies of the garrison brought to despair he quitted his honour and that load of fortune and entring into the Church took upon him the Order of a * Priest ●●y upon which the city was presently surrendred and he led prisoner into Italy where he was beheaded with Julian his son whom he entitled the Noble 〈◊〉 enti●●e 〈◊〉 and Sebastian his brother The History of these affairs which is before deliver'd more at large I have here abridged from Zosimus Zosomen Nicephorus Orosius and Olympiodorus that truth may triumph over the vanity of those who by the help of their own invention have adulterated this story with their ridiculous and simple forgeries Our Historians report that in this city was the inauguration of our martial King Arthur and soon after the place was demolish'd either in the Saxon Wars or when Athelwolf in rebellion against King Edward his brother assisted by that crew of Danish Robbers destroy'd all this country as far as Basing-stoke Nothing now remains but the walls which though they have lost their coping and battlements seem to have been of a great height For by the rubbish and ruins the earth is grown so high that I could scarce thrust my self through a † passage which they call Onion's hole ●●gip●r● tho' I stoop'd very low The walls however remain in a great measure entire only some few gaps there are in those places where the gates have been and out of these very walls there grow Oaks of such a vast bigness incorporated as it were with the stones and their roots and boughs spreading so far round that they even raise an admiration in all that behold them In compass the walls contain about two Italian miles so that perhaps from the largeness of the place the Saxons call'd it Selcester that is a great city Sel what For Sel seems in their language to have signified great since Asserius Menevensis interprets the Saxon word Selwood by Sylva magna i.e. a great wood On the west-side of the walls where 't is a level there runs a long ridge cast up for defence of the place It includes about 80 acres of land a good and fat soil now divided into separate fields with a little grove towards the west and eastward near the gate a farm-house with a small Church of modern building in which while I search'd for ancient Inscriptions I found nothing but some Coats of Arms in the windows viz. in a field sable seven Fusils argent Bendwise as also in a field sable a Fesse between two cheverns Or and in a shield Or an eagle display'd with two heads gules Arms of the Blewets Bainards and Cusanz I find these last to be the Arms of the Blewets to whom this estate came after the time of William the Conquerour the second are the Arms of the noble family of Bainard of Leckham and the first is the Coat of the family of the Cusanz by whom this estate pass'd hereditarily from the Blewets to the Bainards But in the reign of William the Conquerour this was in the possession of William de Ow the Norman who being accus'd of treason appeal'd to a tryal of his innocence by Duel but being conquered he was by command of King William Rufus punish'd with the loss of his eyes and testicles The inhabitants of this place told me it had been a constant observation of theirs that tho' the soil here be fat and fertile yet in a sort of baulks that cross one another the corn never grows so thick as in the other parts of the field and along these they imagine the streets of the old city to have run Here are commonly dug up British tiles and great plenty of Roman Coins which they call Onion-pennies from one Onion whom they foolishly fancy to have been a Giant and an inhabitant of this city There are often found too some inscriptions which the ignorance of the Country-people has robb'd the world of There is only one brought up to London and placed in the garden of the honourable William Cecil Baron of Burghley and Lord High Treasurer of England which is this MEMORIAE FL. VICTORI NAE T. TAM VICTOR CONIUX POSVIT I shall not be positive as some others are that this was a monument in memory of Victorina who was called Mater Castrorum i.e. Mother of the Camp and who rais'd the Victorini son and grandson Posthumus Lollianus Marius and Tetricus Caesars in Gaule and Britain against Gallienus the Emperor But I have somewhere read that there were two Victors in Britaine and that both flourished at the same time one son of Maximus the Emperor the other * Praetorio Praefectus Praefect of the Guards to the same Emperor and mention'd by St. Ambrose in his Epistles But I dare affirm that neither of these was he who set up this monument in memory of his wife As there is one Roman military way that leads from hence directly southward
high taken down when half-dead and beheaded and the trunk of his body thrown into the fire a punishment too inhumane and but very seldom made use of in this kingdom Upon this his goods being confiscate King Edward the first frankly gave this Castle with the Hundred of Felebergh to 66 Sir Bartholomew Bartholomew de Badilsmer but he too within a short time forfeited both of them for Treason as I observed but just now 'T is a current report among the Inhabitants that Julius Caesar encampt here in his second expedition against the Britains and that thence it was call'd Julham as if one should say Julius's station or house and if I mistake not they have truth on their side For Caesar himself tells us that after he had march'd by night 12 miles from the shore he first encounter'd the Britains upon a River and after he had beat them into the woods that he encamp'd there where the Britains having cut down a great number of trees were posted in a place wonderfully fortify'd both by nature and art Now this place is exactly twelve miles from the sea-coast nor is there e're a river between so that of necessity his first march must have been hither where he kept his men encamp'd for ten days till he had refitted his fleet shatter'd very much by a tempest and got it to shore Below this town is a green barrow said to be the burying place of one Jul-Laber many ages since who some will tell you was a Giant others a Witch For my own part imagining all along that there might be something of real Antiquity couch'd under that name I am almost perswaded that Laberius Durus the Tribune Liberius D●rus the Tribune slain by the Britains in their march from the Camp we spoke of was buried here and that from him the Barrow was call'd Jul-laber y At five miles distance from hence the Stour dividing it's chanel runs with a violent current to Durovernum Durover●●m the chief City of this County to which it gives the name for Durwhern signifies in British a rapid river It is call'd by Ptolemy instead of Durovernum Darvernum by Bede and others Dorobernia by the Saxons Cant-ƿara-byrig i.e. the City of the people of Kent by Ninnius and the Britains Caer Kent i.e. the City of Kent by us Canterbury Canterbury and by the Latins Cantuaria A very ancient City and no doubt famous in the times of the Romans Not very large as Malmesbury says 67 Four hundred years since nor very little famous for it's situation for the fatness of the neighbouring soil for the walls enclosing it being entire for it's convenience for water and wood and besides by reason of the nearness of the Sea it has fish in abundance While the Saxon Heptarchy flourish'd it was the Capital city of the Kingdom of Kent and the seat of their Kings till King Ethelbert gave it with the Royalties to Austin 68 The Apostle as they call'd him Austin the English Apostle consecrated Archbishop of the English nation who here fix'd a seat for himself and Successors And tho' the Metropolitan-dignity with the honour of the Pall this was a Bishop's vestment What a Pal. is going over the shoulders made of a sheep's skin in memory of him who sought the Lost sheep and when he had found it lay'd it on his shoulders embroider'd with Crosses and taken off the body or coffin of S. Peter were settl'd at London by S. Gregory Pope yet for the honour of S. Augustine it was remov'd hither For Kenulfus King of the Mercians writes thus to Pope Leo. An. ●93 Because Augustine of blessed memory who first preach'd the word of God to the English nation and gloriously presided over the Churches of Saxony in the city of Canterbury is now dead and his body bury'd in the Church of S. Peter Prince of the Apostles which his Successor Laurentius consecrated it seemeth good to all the wise men of our nation that that city should have the Metropolitan honour where his body is bury'd who planted the true faith in those parts But whether the Archiepiscopal See and Metropolitical Dignity of our nation were settl'd here by the authority of the Wise men i.e. to speak agreeably to our present times by authority of Parliament or by Austin himself in his life time as others would have it 't is certain that the Popes immediately succeeding fixt it so firm that they decreed an Anathema and hell-fire to any one that should presume to remove it From that time 't is incredible how it has flourisht both by reason of the Archiepiscopal dignity and also of a School which Theodore the seventh Archbishop founded there And tho' it was shatter'd in the Danish wars and has been several times almost quite destroy'd by the casualties of fire yet it always rose again with greater beauty After the coming in of the Normans when William Rufus as 't is in the Register of S. Augustine's Abby gave the City of Canterbury entirely to the Bishops which they had formerly held only by courtesie what by the name of Religion and bounty of it's Prelates especially of Simon Sudbury who repair'd the walls it did not only recruit but altogether on a sudden rose up to that splendour as even for the beauty of it's private buildings to be equal to any city in Britain but for the magnificence of it's Churches and their number exceeds even the best of them Amongst these there are two peculiarly eminent Christs and S. Austin's both for Benedictine Monks As for christ-Christ-Church 't is in the very heart of the City and rises up with so much Majesty that it imprints a sort of a Religious veneration at a distance The same Austin I spoke of repair'd this Church which as Bede tells us had formerly been built by the Romans that were Christians he dedicated it to Christ and it became a See for his Successors which 73 Archbishops have now in a continu'd series been possess'd of Of whom Lanfrank and William Corboyl when that more ancient fabrick was burnt down rais'd the upper part of the Church to that Majesty wherewith it now appears as their Successors did the lower part both done at great charges to which the pious superstition of former ages contributed For numbers of all sorts both highest middle and lowest quality flock'd hither with large offerings to visit the Tomb of T. Becket Archbishop He was slain in this Church by the Courtiers for opposing the King too resolutely and warmly by asserting the Liberties of the Church was register'd on that account by the Pope in the Kalendar of Martyrs had divine honours pay'd him and was so loaded with rich offerings that gold was one of the vilest Treasures of his Shrine All says Erasmus who was an eye-witness shin'd sparkl'd glitter'd with rare and very large jewels and even in the whole Church appear'd a profuseness above that of Kings n At the
Dissolution the plate and jewels thereof fill'd two great chests each whereof requir'd eight men to carry them out of the Church Monast Angl. vol. 1. p. 18. So that the name of Christ to whom it was dedicated was almost quite laid aside for that of S. Thomas Nor was it so much fam'd for any other thing as the memory and burial of this man tho' it has some other tombs that may deservedly be boasted of particularly Edward Prince of Wales sirnam'd the Black a heroe for his valour in war a downright miracle and Henry 4. that potent King of England But King Henry 8. dispers'd all this wealth that had been so long in gathering and drove out the Monks in lieu whereof this christ-Christ-Church has a Dean Archdeacon 12 Prebendaries and 6 Preachers whose business it is to sow the word of God in the neighbouring places It had another Church below the city to the East which disputed preeminence with this St. Augustine's commonly St. Austen's known by the name of S. Austin's because S. Austin himself and K. Ethelbert by his advice founded it to the honour of S. Peter and S. Paul for a burying place both to the Kings of Kent and the Archbishops for it was not then lawful to bury in Cities it was richly endow'd and the Abbot there had a Mint granted him and the Privilege of coyning money Now as the greatest part of it lyes in its own ruines and the rest is turn'd into a house for the King any one that beholds it may easily apprehend what it has been Austin himself was bury'd in the Porch of it and as Thomas Spot has told us with this Epitaph Inclytus Anglorum praesul pius decus altum Hic Augustinus requiescit corpore sanctus The Kingdom 's honour and the Church's grace Here Austin England's blest Apostle lays But Bede o Tho' Bede may be otherwise very good authority yet here he certainly fails for the title Archiepiscopus occurring in it is a plain evidence that 't is of later date since that title could not be then in the Western Church nor was it allow'd commonly to Metropolitans as Mabillon and others have observ'd till about the ninth age See Stillingfleet 's Origin Britan. p. 21 22. who is better authority assures us that he had over him this much more ancient Inscription HIC REQVIESCIT DOMINVS AVGVSTINVS DOROVERNENSIS ARCHIEPISCOPVS PRIMVS QVI OLIM HVC A BEATO GREGORIO ROMANAE VRBIS PONTIFICE DIRECTVS ET A DEO OPERATIONE MIRACVLORVM SVFFVLTVS ET ETHELBERTHVM REGEM AC GENTEM ILLIVS AB IDOLORVM CVLTV AD FIDEM CHRISTI PERDVXIT ET COMPLETIS IN PACE DIEBVS OFFICII SVI DEFVNCTVS EST SEPTIMO KALENDAS IVNIAS EODEM REGE REGNANTE That is Here resteth S. Augustine the first Archbishop of Canterbury who being formerly dispatch'd hither by the blessed Gregory Bishop of Rome and supported of God by the working of miracles both drew Ethelberht with his kingdom from the worship of Idols to the faith of Christ and also having fulfill'd the days of his Office dy'd on the 7th of the Kalends of June in the same King's reign With him there were bury'd in the same porch the six Archbishops that immediately succeeded and in honour of the whole seven namely Austin Laurentius Mellitus Justus Honorius Deus-dedit and Theodosius were those verses engraven in marble SEPTEM SUNT ANGLI PRIMATES ET PROTOPATRES SEPTEM RECTORES SEPTEM COELOQVE TRIONES SEPTEM CISTERNAE VITAE SEPTEMQVE LVCERNAE ET SEPTEM PALMAE REGNI SEPTEMQVE CORONAE SEPTEM SVNT STELLAE QUAS HAEC TENET AREA CELLAE Seven Patriarchs of England Primates seven Seven Rectors and seven Labourers in heaven Seven Cisterns pure of life seven Lamps of light Seven Palms and of this Realm seven Crowns full bright Seven Stars are here bestow'd in vault below It will not be very material to take notice of another Church near this which as Bede has it was built by the Romans and dedicated to S. Martin and in which before the coming of Austin Bertha of the blood Royal of the Franks and wife of Ethelbert was us'd to have divine Service celebrated according to the Christian Religion As to the Castle which appears on the south-side of the City with it's decay'd bulwarks since it does not seem to be of any great Antiquity I have nothing memorable to say of it but only that it was built by the Normans Of the dignity of the See of Canterbury which was formerly very great I shall only say thus much that as in former ages under the Hierarchy of the Church of Rome the Archbishops of Canterbury were Primates of all England Legates of the Pope and as Pope Urban 2. express'd it as it were Patriarchs of another world so when the Pope's Authority was thrown off it was decreed by a Synod held in the year 1534. that laying aside that title Primate and Metropolitan of all England they should be stil'd Primates and Metropolitans of all England This dignity was lately possess'd by the most reverend Father in God John Whitgift who having consecrated his whole life to God and his utmost endeavours to the service of the Church dy'd in the year 1604. extremely lamented by all good men He was succeeded by Richard Bancroft a man of singular courage and prudence in matters relating to the establishment of the Church Canterbury is 51 degrees 16 minutes in Latitude and 24 degrees 51 minutes in Longitude xx After Stour has gather'd it's waters into one chanel it runs by Hackington Hackington where Lora Countess of Leicester a very honorable Lady in her time quitting the pleasures of the world sequester'd her self from all commerce with it to have her time entire for the service of God At which time Baldwin Archbishop of Canterbury began a Church in this place to the honour of S. Stephen and Thomas of Canterbury but the Authority of the Pope prohibiting it for fear it should tend to the prejudice of the Monks of Canterbury he let his design fall However from that time the place has kept the name of S. Stephens S. Stephens and Sir Roger Manwood Knight Lord chief Baron of the Exchequer a person of great knowledge in our Common Law to whose munificence the poor inhabitants are very much indebted was lately it's greatest ornament nor is his son Sir Peter Manwood Knight of the Bath a less honour to it at this day whom I could not but mention with this respect and deference since he is an encourager of virtue learning and learned men From hence the Stour by Fordich Fordich which in Domesday-book is call'd the little burrough of Forewich famous for it's excellent trouts passes on to Sturemouth 69 Which it hath now forsaken a mile and more yet left and bequeathed his name to it But now by Stoure-mouth runneth a brook which issuing out of S. Eadburgh's Well at Liming where the daughter to K. Ethelbert first of our
more remarkable by giving the title of Viscount Maidstone to the honorable family of the Finches Earls of Winchelsea Elizabeth wife of Sir Moyle Finch sole daughter and heir of Sir Thomas Heneage being first advanc'd to the dignity of Viscountess Maidstone July 8. 21 Jac. 1. with remainder to the heirs males of her body and for a fight which happen'd here June 2. 1648. between Sir Thomas Fairfax General for the Parliament and some Kentish Gentlemen who had taken arms in defence of King Charles 1. and posted themselves in this town Which they so well defended tho' unequal in number the streets being well man'd and the houses well lin'd within that General Fairfax with an army of near 10000 men could not gain it from them till 12 a clock at night it enduring no less than 3 assaults by storm with such obstinacy that the veteran soldiers confess'd whatever they got was by inches and dearly bought and that they had never met with the like desperate service during all the war Lamb. ●●mb p. ●6 At Maidstone and not below it a rivulet joyneth Medway which riseth saith Lambard at Bygon others at Ewell in a little wood less than a mile west of Lenham Lenham which I cannot allow to be the Aqua-Lena mention'd by our Author much rather should I think it to be the spring in the town call'd Streetwell perhaps from the Strata of the Romans that led hither heretofore which possibly too might give name to the Station here call'd Durolenum Burton's Comment 〈◊〉 the Itin. ● 213. it having the true distance in the Itinerary from Durobrovis or Rochester according to Aldus's copy which is 16 miles but not so from Durovernum or Canterbury which in all the copies I have yet seen is but 12 from Durolevum whereas it is distant from Lenham at least 16 and so suits not very well with our Author's assertion nor could I hear of any Roman Antiquities ever found hereabout to confirm his opinion The distances then disagreeing so much and no Antiquities appearing 't is plain there is little else left beside the similitude of names to support it What then if we should pitch upon Bapchild a place lying between Sittingbourn and Ospringe the ancient name whereof is Baccanceld afterwards contracted into Beck-child and now corruptly call'd Bapchild For as Dur denotes water so Bec in the Saxon answers that or at least the termination celd implying a pool will in some measure suit the old name But what is of more consequence in this matter is its being in the Saxon-times a place of very great note insomuch that Archbishop Brightwald An. 700. held a Synod at it Now 't is a general remark made by Antiquaries that the Saxons particularly fix'd upon those places where the Romans had left their Stations from whence at present so many of our towns end in Chester And even at this day here are the ruins of two old Churches or Chapels besides the parish-Parish-Church Moreover if the Roman-road betwixt the Kentish cities was the same with the present then Durolevum which by the by is only read Durolenum to reconcile it to Lenham must be somewhere about this Parish because no other place in the present road is of so agreeable a distance between the said Cities Now there cannot be a shorter cut between Rochester and Canterbury than that at present is unless one should level hills or travel through bogs and yet by this the distance between is about 25 miles the same with the Itinerary Iter. 2. 4. as also where Durolevum comes between 13 to it from Rochester and 12 from it to Canterbury makes exactly the same number That there are no visible remains of the old Road may be very well attributed to this that having been all along one of the most frequented Roads in England and us'd probably ever since the Roman works were made it is now levell'd with the adjacent earth and only serves for a good bottom The old Causey indeed between Canterbury and Lemanis does still in part remain and is call'd Stone-street being the common way into those quarters But then for these 1000 years that has been private and inconsiderable with respect to this other and the soil too may make a difference For that to Lemanis has a foundation all of natural rock and hard chalk and the adjoyning fields afford sufficient quantity of most lasting materials Whereas from Rochester to Canterbury the soil is of it self soft and tender and the neighbouring parts yield no such supply of durable materials As to it 's having been a constant road it may be thus made probable In Bede's time the distance between Rochester and Canterbury was * Pag. 116. Edit Wheel 24 miles and so some call it at this day 24 others 25. so that it could not be alter'd then In the 12th Century there was a Maison Dieu erected at Ospringe for the receiving Knights Templars coming into and going out of the Kingdom And † Poems pag. 54. Chaucer going in Pilgrimage to St. Thomas pass'd thro' Boughton to Canterbury as they still do However I can rather comply with our Author and be content that Lenham should pass for Durolenum than with ‖ Hist of Cant. p. 25. ●in p. 179 180. c. Mr. Somner or Mr. Burton who place it at Newington near Sittingbourn where 't is true many Roman Antiquities have been found yet being but 8 miles from Rochester and 17 from Canterbury 't is altogether out of distance on both sides But tho' no Antiquities appear at Lenham there is a thing exceeding remarkable mention'd on the Tomb of Robert Thompson Esq in the Church there who was grandchild to that truly religious matron Mary Honywood wise of Robert Honywood of Charing Esq She had at her decease lawfully descended from her 367 children 16 of her own body 114 grandchildren 228 in the third generation and 9 in the fourth her renown liveth with her posterity her body lyeth in this Church and her monument may be seen in Marks hall in Essex whe●e she died p The Medway having past Maidstone cometh to Aylesford Aylesford where the Britains not only defeated the Saxons as Mr. Camden tells us but whither also King Edmund Ironside pursu'd the Danes and slew many of them and thence drove them into Shepey where had he not been stop'd by the treachery of Duke Eadric he had finally destroy'd them Here also Radulphus Frisburn under the patronage of Richard Lord Grey of Codnor with whom he return'd from the wars of the Holy Land founded a house for Carmelites in Aylesford wood An. 1240 in imitation of those whose lives he had observed in the wilderness of Palestine † Pas de Script p. 345. 354. where they throve so well that quickly after in An. 1245. there was a general Chapter of the order held here in which John Stock so call'd from his living in a hollow tree was chosen General of the
call'd the Vineyard Vineyards and another on a rising hill by Oversbridge near Glocester where was a large house moted round belonging to the Bishop of Glocester built about the year 1351. by the Abbot of Glocester but 't was totally ruin'd in the late Civil Wars b The Custom of having forfeited Estates return'd them is now lost by desuetude for upon the strictest enquiries among understanding men it does not appear that 't is us'd o● claim'd in any part of this County c The present Forest of Dean ●ean forest contains about 30000 Acres the soil a deep clay fit for the growth of Oak The hills are full of Iron-ore which colour the several Springs that have their passage through them Here are several Fornaces for the making of Iron which by the violence of the fire becomes fluid and being brought to their forges are beat out into Barrs of various shapes The workmen are very industrious in seeking out the Beds of old Cinders which not being fully exhausted are burnt again in the furnaces and make the best Iron The Oak of the forest was so very considerable that 't is said to have been part of the Instructions of the Spanish Armada to destroy the timber of this place But what a foreign power could not effect our own Civil dissentions did for it went miserably to wrack in the Civil wars d The Aventon ●venton mention'd by our Author is at present call'd Alvington being a Chapel of Ease to Wollaston the estate of Henry Duke of Beaufort St. Brevial's-Castle is now ruin'd and serves as a prison for offenders in the Forest It has been always esteem'd a place of trust and honour and several of the Nobility have been Governours of it His Grace the Duke of Beaufort is Constable of the place Here it is that the Mine-Court Swain-Mote and Speech-Court are kept wherein are several old Customs of Pleading e By the river Wye lyeth Newland ●wland a large Parish standing in a pleasant plain where are vast Mine-pits of 60 or 70 foot deep and as large as a considerable Church Mr. Jones a Hamborow-Merchant erected here an Alms house for 16 poor men and women and gave a very good house and stipend to a Lecturer the Company of Haberdashers in London being Trustees North-west from hence is Westbury ●estbury a very large Parish reputed about twenty miles in compass f Our next guide is the Severn ●ern which runs in this County above 40 miles by land 't is in some places 2 or 3 miles over and yet the tyde floweth the whole length of the current as high as Tewkesbury It is remarkable that the tydes one year are largest at full Moon the next at the change and and that one year the night-tydes are largest the other the day-tydes g This river first goes to Tewkesbury ●wkes●y where but little of the Abbey remains saving only the Church which is now Parochial and had once a fair Spire upon it Mr. Fuller in his Church-History makes it a controverted point whether the Abbot of Tewkesbury had a voice in Parliament but by Bishop Godwin's Annals it appears he had one 1539. So that this County had four mitred Abbies Glocester Cirencester Tewkesbury and Winchcomhe The Corporation was dissolv'd by the Proclamation of King James 2. 1688. h At a little distance from hence is Deorhirst ●rhirst where Mr. Powell in the year 1675. dug up in his Orchard an old stone with this Inscription Odda Dux jussit hanc Regiam Aulam construi atque dedicari in honorem S. Trinitatis pro animâ germani sui Elfrici quae de hoc loco assumpta Ealdredus vero Episcopus qui eandem dedicavit 2 Idibus April 14. autem anno S. Regni Eadwardi Regis Anglorum i.e. Duke Odda commanded this Royal Palace to be built and to be dedicated to the Holy Trinity for the soul of his Cousin Elfrick which was parted from his body in this place But Ealdred was the Bishop who consecrated it on the second of the Ides of April and the 14th year of the reign of the Holy King Edward i Next is what our Author calls Oleaneag Olaniage in Saxon instead of Olanige for so our ancient Annals read it and makes it famous for the battle between Edmund and Canutus But general tradition will not allow this to be the place neither is it justify'd by any analogy between the old and new names Near Glocester betwixt Oversbridge and Maysemore there is an Island call'd to this day the Isle of Alney which one need not scruple to say was the very place of that action k From hence the Severn runs to Glocester Glocester in Saxon Gleaƿanceaster where the Castle mention'd by Mr. Camden is now the common Goal for Debtors and Felons The Monastery built there by Osrick being ruin'd and decay'd was repair'd by Beornulph King of the Mercians in the year 821. who chang'd the former institution into Seculars and they continued till Wulstan Bishop of Worcester plac'd Regulars there of the Order of St. Benedict in the year 1022. A learned Member of this Church has discover'd by some ancient Records that Ralph Willington and not the two mention'd by our Author built our Lady's Chapel and gave Lands to find two Priests for ever there The Offerings at King Edward's Tomb were very large for presently after his death so great a respect was paid to the memory of their injur'd Prince that the Town was scarce able to receive the Votaries that flock'd thither And the Register of the Abbey affirms that if all the Oblations had been expended upon the Church they might have built an entire new one from the very foundation The Tower is so neat and curious that several Travellers have affirm'd it to be one of the best pieces of Architecture in England Abbot Seabroke the first designer of it dying left it to the care of Robert Tully a Monk of this place which is intimated in thole two verses written in black Letters under the arch of the Tower in the Quire Hoc quod digestum specularis opusque politum Tullii haec ex onere Seabroke Abbate jubente The Whispering-place seems to be purely accidental for if one survey the out-side of the Church he will see that two parts of it were tackt on only as passages into a Chapel erected there l As for the City King John made it a Burrough to be govern'd by two Bailiffs and King Henry 3. who was crown'd here made it a Corporation On the south-side of the Abbey King Edward 1. erected a noble Free-stone-gate which is still call'd Edward's Gate it was repair'd by the last Abbot but almost demolisht in the late Civil wars K. Richard the third gave it his Sword and Cap of Maintenance and added the two Hundreds but after the Restoration of King Charles 2. they were taken away by Act of Parliament and the walls pull'd down because they had
publick spirit For this reason the present Chancellor of the University at the same time providing for the memorial of himself has in this Library erected a Statue of Sir Thomas Bodley that great friend and patron of Learning with this Inscription THOMAS SACKVILLUS DORSETTIAE COMES SUMMUS ANGLIAE THESAURARIUS ET HUJUS ACADEMIAE CANCELLARIUS THOMAE BODLEIO EQUITI AURATO QUI BIBLIOTHECAM HANC INSTITUIT HONORIS CAUSSA PIE POSUIT That is THOMAS SACKVIL EARL OF DORSET LORD HIGH TREASURER OF ENGLAND AND CHANCELLOR OF THIS UNIVERSITY PIOUSLY ERECTED THIS MONUMENT TO THE HONOUR OF SIR THOMAS BODLEY KNIGHT WHO INSTITUTED THIS LIBRARY In the Reign of Henry the Seventh for the better advancement of Learning William Smith Bishop of Lincoln built new out of the Ground Brazen-Nose-College ff which was b With Exhibitions for 13 Scholars An. 1572. well endow'd by the pious and good old man Alexander Nowell Dean of St. Pauls About the same time Richard Fox Bishop of Winchester founded Corpus-Christi-College gg After these Cardinal Wolsey Arch-bishop of York on the site of the Monastery of St. Frideswide began the most noble and ample Foundation of all others 15 For Professors and two hundred Students which King Henry 8. with addition of Canterbury-College did richly endow and gave it the name of christ-Christ-Church christ- christ-Christ-Church hh 16 Assign'd to a Dean Prebends and Students The same mighty Prince at the expence of his own Exchequer honored the City with an Episcopal See and the University with publick Professors And in our own age that the Muses might still be courted with greater favours Sir Thomas Pope Kt. and Sir Thomas White Kt. Citizen and Alderman of London have repair'd Durham and Bernard Colleges which lay almost buried in their own dust have enlarg'd their buildings endow'd them with lands and given them new names dedicating the former to the Holy Trinity ii this latter to St. John Baptist kk Queen Mary c The publick Schools at the time of Mr. Camden's writing ow'd their restitution to the piety and bounty of Queen Mary An. 1554. but the present fabrick in form of a stately Quadrangle was rais'd by the contribution of Sir Thomas Bodley and other Benefactors An. 1613. built from the ground the publick Schools And lately Hugh Price Dr. of Laws has happily laid a new foundation 17 With good speed and happy success as I wish call'd in honour of our Saviour Jesus-College ll These Colleges in number sixteen beside eight Halls mm all fairly built and well endow'd together with their excellent and useful Libraries do so raise the credit and esteem of Oxford that it may be justly thought to exceed all other Universities in the world nn Nor does it yield the precedence to any in Living Libraries for so with Eunapius I may term the men of profound learning nor in the admirable method of teaching all Arts and Sciences nor in excellent discipline and most regular government of the whole body But why this digression Oxford is very far from standing in need of a Panegyric having already gain'd the universal esteem and admiration of the world Nor would I by any means seem extravagant in the commendation of my mother University Let it suffice to say of Oxford what Pomponius said of Athens It is so eminent that there needs no pointing at it But by way of conclusion take this passage which begins the history of Oxford from the Proctor's book Chronicles and Histories do assure us that several places in different parts of the world have been famous for the studies of Arts and Sciences But of all such places of study among the Latins Oxford appears to be of the most ancient foundation to profess a greater variety of knowledge to be more firm in adhering to the Catholick Religion and to enjoy more good customs and greater privileges The Astronomers observe this City to be in twenty two degrees of longitude or distance from the fortunate Islands and in the northern latitude of fifty one degrees and fifty minutes 18 And thus much briefly of my dear Nurse-Mother Oxford As soon as Isis and Cherwell have joyn'd their * Besides this number valu'd at more than a thousand pound he gave 126 Volumes more in the year 1440. an in 1443. a much greater number with considerable additions at his death An. 1446. streams below Oxford the Isis with a swift and deeper current passes on to the south to find out the Tame River Tame which it seems long to have sought for Nor does it run many miles before the said Tame rising in the County of Bucks comes and joyns with it which river upon entrance into this County gives its own name to a Market-town of pleasant situation among rivers for the river Tame washes the north part of the town and two little brooks slide by it on the east and west sides This place has been in a flourishing condition ever since Henry Bishop of Lincoln in the reign of Henry 3. Claus 3 Hen. 3. brought the great road which lay before upon one side of the town through the middle of it Alexander that munificent Bishop of Lincoln Lord of this Manour to alleviate the publick odium he had contracted by his extravagant expences in building of Castles founded here a small Monastery And many years after the Quatremans a Family in former times of great repute in these parts built here an Hospital for the maintenance of poor people But neither of these foundations are at present to be seen though instead of them Sir John Williams Lord Williams of Tame Kt. advanced to the dignity of a Peer of this Realm by Queen Mary under the title of Baron Williams of Tame has here founded a beautiful School and an Alms-house oo 19 But this title soon determined when he left but daughters married into th● families of Norris a●d Wenman From hence the Tame runs near Ricot Ricot a neat seat which belong'd formerly to the Quatermans upon whose failure of issue male it was sold away by the Fowlers and Hernes till it came at last into the hands of the Lord Williams before-mention'd and by his daughter to the Lord Henry Norris Lord Norris whom Queen Elizabeth advanc'd to the dignity of a Peer by the title of Baron Norris of Ricot pp a person as well eminent for his honourable descent being deriv'd from the d Sir Edward Norris Knight marry'd Tridesaide younger daughter of Francis Viscount Lovel Lovels who were allied to most of the great families in England as more especially for his stout and martial sons whose valour and conduct are sufficiently known in Holland Portugal Bretagne and Ireland The next place visited by the Tame 20 Huseley where sometimes the names of Burentines fl●urished as at Chalgrave is e The same place we find in the Catalogue of the British-Cities call'd by Ninnius and Huntingdon Cair Dauri by Alfred of Beverley
Allies Yet afterward this City flourished again and grew to a very great eminency And I have seen several pieces of ancient money which in all probability were coined at this place with this Inscription TASCIA and on the reverse VER which that most inquisitive and learned Antiquary David Powel S. T. D. interpreteth to be the Tribute of Verulam Ta●c what magnifies For Tasc as he tells me in the British tongue signifies Tribute Tascia a Tribute-penny and Tascyd the chief Collector of Tribute But you may here if you please view the Coyn once more for I have given you a sight of it before Some will have it that these pieces were coyned before the coming in of the Romans But I am not of their mind For I have always thought them to have been the Tribute-money which the Romans as I observ'd before were wont every year to raise by Poll and by a Land tax together For before the Romans coming I can scarce think that the Britains ever coyned money And yet I am not unmindful of what Caesar writes of them They use saith he British mo●●● O●h●rs An●●●●● brass-money or rings of iron made to a certain weight where ancient Copies have Lanceis ferreis for which the Criticks have substituted Laminis ferreis i.e. Plates of iron But it would be impertinent here to repeat my former discourse upon this subject Let us therefore return to the business in hand Now as to Verulam no one thing ever reflected so much honour upon it as that once it brought forth St. Alban a man justly eminent for his piety and steadiness in the Christian Faith who when Dioclesian by all sorts of torments endeavoured the total extirpation of the Christian Religion with an invincible constancy of mind suffered Martyrdom the first man in all Britain For which reason he is called Our Stephen ●●●en the Martyr and the Protomartyr of Britain and Fortunatus Presbyter thus mentions him Albanum egregium foecunda Britannia profert And fruitful Britain holy Alban shews Also Hiericus a Frenchman who flourished 700 years since gives an account in verse of the same St. Alban's Martyrdom I● the Life of St. German and also how his Executioner was by a miracle stricken blind Millia poenarum Christi pro nomine passus Quem tandem rapuit capitis sententia caesi Sed non lictori cessit res tuta superbo Utque caput Sancto ceciderunt lumina saevo After a thousand sufferings for the Faith When judg'd at last to end them all with death The bloody Lictor did just heav'n surprise And as the Saint his head the villain lost his eyes In an old Agonal or History of his passion we are told that the Citizens of Verulam caused an account of his suffering to be expressed on a marble which they plac'd in their town walls as a publick disgrace to him and a terror to all Christians But afterwards when the blood of Martyrs had overcome the cruelty of Tyrants the Christians built a Church here to his memory which as Bede tells us was a piece of most admirable workmanship And now Verulam came to be so much reverenced for it's sanctity that An. Dom. 429. a Synod was here held upon occasion of the Pelagian Heresie which was spread a-new over this Island by Agricola son to Severianus a Bishop and had so generally infected the British Churches that to make good the Orthodox Faith they were forced to send into France for German Bishop of Auxerre and Lupus Bishop of Troies who confuting the heresie thereby rendred themselves very venerable to the Britains especially St. German as appears by the many Churches dedicated to him in this Island Particularly there is still standing near the walls of this ruined city a small Chapel that bears that Saint's name S. German's Chapel tho' otherwise but ill employed It stands just in the place where St. German preached to the people for which tradition we have the authority of some ancient Records of St. Alban's Church We are told farther by Constantius who lived at the same time in the life of St. German that he caused the Sepulchre of St. Alban to be opened and placed therein the Reliques of certain Saints that so they whom one heaven had received might also be laid in one sepulchre By the way I take notice of this that we may thence collect what was the custom of that Age. Not long after Verulam fell into the hands of the Saxons But Uther the Britain for his serpentine subtilty sirnam'd Pendrago with much difficulty after a very tedious siege recovered it After whose death it quickly fell again into the same hands For Gildas's words do plainly enough intimate that the Saxons in his days were possessed of this City God saith he hath lighted up unto us the most clear Lamps of his Saints whose burial-places as well as the places of their passion might excite in our souls a great fervour of divine love every time we had cast our eyes upon them if as a punishment to our great wickedness the Barbarians had not been suffered to rob us of them I particularly mean St. Alban at Verulam c. Verulam was now quite ruined by these wars when about the year of our Lord 793. Offa the most potent King of the Mercians founded just over against it in a place then called Holmehurst a very large and stately Monastery to the memory of St. Alban or as the Charter it self expresseth it unto our Lord Jesus Christ and to St. Alban the Martyr whose Reliques the divine Grace hath discovered as an hopeful pledge both of our present prosperity and also of our future happiness Presently hereupon together with the Monastery there grew up a town which from the Saint took the name of St. Albans St. Albans This King Offa and several other Kings of England his successors bestowed upon this Monastery very large possessions and obtained for it also from divers Popes very ample privileges I will here recite a passage to that purpose out of Florilegus that you may therein observe the extraordinary liberality of our Princes to the Church Thus therefore he The most mighty K. Offa gave to S. Alban the Protomartyr a town of the Royal Demesne which is distant about 20 miles from Verulam and is called † Perhaps Win●slow Uneslaw and many other lands round about it as may be seen in this K.'s Charter kept to this day in the said Monastery The immunities also and privileges of this Monastery are so large and peculiar that it is exempt from paying the Apostolical duty or tax to the Pope commonly called ‖ That is of every house a penny Romescot whereas neither the King nor the Archbishop nor any Bishop Abbot or Prior or any other person whatsoever in the whole Kingdom is exempted from this payment this alone is exempt Furthermore the Abbot or a Monk that acts as Archdeacon under him exerciseth Episcopal Jurisdiction over all
means they gain'd great esteem and respect from all hands by the bounty of Princes 27 Devout people had large possessions and much wealth and flourisht in great reputation for their piety 28 Yea and in the opinion both of the holiness of the men and of the place King Henry 3. c. Upon one of those Monuments the characters whereof are obscure I read Comes Pembrochiae and on the side M● eram ●●●tis M● multo● v●cerat arm●s The Statute concerning the Templars lands 17 Edw. 2. Many Noble-men were bury'd among them whose Images are to be seen in this Temple with their leggs across for so all those in that age were bury'd who had devoted themselves to the service of the Holy War or as those times worded it had taken up the Cross Among the rest were William 29 Marshal the elder a most powerful man in his time the father William and Gilbert the sons all Marshals of England and Earls of Pembroke 30 Upon William the elder his Tomb I some years since read in the upper part Comes Pembrochiae and upon the side this Verse Miles eram Martis Mars multos vicerat armis But 31 But in process of time when with insatiable greediness they had hoarded great wealth by withdrawing Tithes from Churches appropriating spiritual livings to themselves and other hard means their riches turned to their ruin For thereby their former piety was after a manner stifl●d they fell at jarr with other Religious Orders their professed Obedience to the Patriarch of Jerusalem was rejected envy among the common sort was pr●cured which hope of gain among the better sort so enkindled that in the year of our Lord 1312. this Order was condemn'd for Impiety and by authority of the Pope utterly abolisht However their revenues by Act of Parliament went to the Knights-Hospitalers of St. John of Jerusalem lest what was given upon a Religious design contrary to the Will of the Doners should be turn'd to other uses Notwithstanding it appears plainly by ancient Records that after the Templars were driven out this place was the seat of Thomas Earl of Lancaster and of that 32 Sir Hugh Spencer Spenser who was a great favourite of King Edward the second as afterwards of 33 Sir Aimer de Valentia or Valence Audomar de Valentia Earl of Pembroke and at last it was turn'd into two † Collegia Inns for Lawyers Concerning the other two I have met with nothing upon record only there is a Tradition that one of them was the habitation of the Lords Grey 34 Of Wilton the other of the Earls of Lincoln Near these between the New and Old Temple King Henry the third built a House of Converts for the maintenance of those who turn'd from Judaism to Christianity which afterwards King Edward 3. made a place for the Rolls and Records upon which account it is at this day call'd the Rowles The Rowles o These Suburbs run along in a continu'd set of buildings and the stately houses of some of the Nobility upon the Thames as far as Westminster The most considerable of them are ‖ ●ride-well St. Bridgid's-Well where King Henry 8. built a Palace for the reception of the Emperour Charles the fifth but now it is a house of Correction Buckhurst-house 35 Or Salisbury Court belonging sometimes to the Bishops of Salisbury 36 The White Friers or c. the house of the Carmelites the Temples before-mention'd 37 Then without the Barrs Essex-house built by the Lord Paget Arundel-house 38 Before call'd Hampton-Place Somerset-house built by Seimor Duke of Somerset Next to pass by the rest the Savoy so call'd from Peter Earl of Savoy who liv'd in it which Eleanor wife of Henry 3. bought of the Fraternity of * Montis Jo●●s Montjoy and gave to her son Edmund Earl of Lancaster whose posterity had it for a seat a good while till Henry the seventh made it a † Pauperib●● sacra● Hospital for the Poor 39 Worcester-house late Bedford-house Salisbury-house Durham-house built by Anthony Bec Bishop of Durham and Patriarch of Jerusalem 40 And thereby the only ornament of this part the Britain Burse built by the Earl of Salisbury and so nam'd of King James 1. York-house for so it has been call'd of late formerly 41 And Northampton-house now begun by Henry Earl of Northampton Bath house But what do I giving particular names to these † 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which do not belong to any one but as Fortune disposes of them Westminster W●●tmin●●er formerly above a mile distant is now by these Suburbs joyn'd so close to London that it seems to be part of it notwithstanding 't is a distinct City of it self and enjoys its own Magistrates and Privileges Once it was call'd Thorney from the thorns now Westminster from its westerly situation and the minster For 't is particularly eminent for that Church for its Hall of Justice and the King's Palace The Church's greatest honour is deriv'd from the inauguration and burial of our Kings in it Sulcardus affirms that there once stood in that place a Temple of Apollo and that it was thrown down by an Earth-quake in the time of Antoninus Pius Out of the ruins whereof Sebert King of the East-Saxons built another to St. Peter which being destroy'd by the Danes was re-edify'd and granted to a few Monks by Bishop Dunstan But afterwards King Edward sirnam'd the Confessor built it anew out of the tenth peny of all his revenues for a burying place to himself and a Monastery to the Benedictine Monks endowing it with lands dispers'd here and there through all England But hear a cotemporary Historian The devout and pious King has dedicated that place to God both for its nearness to the famous and wealthy city for its pleasant situation among fruitful grounds and green fields and for the nearness of that principal river which from all parts of the world conveys whatever is necessary to the adjoyning City But above all for the love he bore to the Prince of the Apostles whom he always reverenc'd with a singular zeal and veneration he made choice of that for the place of his sepulchre Then he order'd a noble structure to be begun and built out of the tenths of his whole revenue such a one as might become the Prince of the Apostles that after the transitory course of this life he might find a propitious God both upon account of his piety and his free offering of those lands and ornaments with which he designs to enrich it Whereupon the work thus nobly begun is successfully carry'd on without sparing for either present or future charges so it may be made worthy of and acceptable to God and the Blessed Apostle Peter Please also to take the form of this ancient building out of an old Manuscript The * Principa● area body of
much of Westminster which tho' as I observ'd is a City of it self and of a distinct Jurisdiction I have taken in along with London because it is so joyn'd to it by continu'd buildings that it seems to be but one and the same City Ho●burn On the west-side of the City the Suburbs runs out with another row of beautiful buildings namely Holborn or rather Oldburn 58 Wherein stood anciently the first House of Templers only in the place now called Southampton House wherein are some Inns for the study of the Common Law and a house of the Bishops of Ely becoming the State of a Bishop which they owe to John Hotham Bishop of that See under Edward 3. The Suburbs grew likewise on the north-side where Jordan Brisset a pious and wealthy man built an House for the Knights Hospitalers of S. John Ho●pitalers of S. John of Jerusalem that was afterwards improv'd into the stateliness of a Palace and had a very beautiful Church with a high tower so neatly carry'd up that while it stood 't was a singular ornament to the City At their first Institution 59 About the year 1124. and long after they were so humble while but poor that their † Governour was call'd Servant to the poor Servants of the Hospital at Jerusalem as that of the Templers Templ●●s who arose a little afte● The humble Minister of the poor Knights of the Temple 60 This religious Order was instituted shortly after Geoffry of Bollen had recover'd Jerusalem The Brethren whereof wore a white Cross upon their upper black garment and by solemn profession were bound to serve Pilgrims and poor people in the Hospital of St. John of Jerusalem and to secure the passages thither they charitably buried the dead they were continual in prayer mortified themselves with watchings and fastings they were courteous and kind to the poor whom they called their Masters and fed with white bread while themselves liv'd with brown and carried themselves with great austerity Whereby they purchased to themselves the love and li●ing of all sorts But what for their piety and bravery in war their condition came to be so much alter'd from this mean state by the bounty of good Princes and private persons that they even abounded in every thing For about the year 1240. they had nineteen thousand Lordships or Manours within Christendom as the Templers had nine thousand whose revenues here in England fell also afterwards to the Hospitalers M●tth Par. And this vast increase of revenues made them so effectual a passage to great honours that their Prior was reckon'd the first Baron of England and liv'd in great state and plenty till King Henry 8. by the instigation of bad Counsellors seis'd upon all their lands as he did also upon those belonging to the Monasteries which out of a pious design were dedicated to God's glory and by the Canons of the Church were to be expended upon the maintenance of Priests relief of the poor redemption of Captives and the repair of Churches Near this place where there is now a stately circuit of houses was formerly a rich House of the Carthusians C●●ter-h●●se built by 61 Sir Walter Many Walter Many of Hainault who got great honour by his service in the French War under Edward 3. And before that there was a very famous Church-yard which in that plague of London in the year 1349. had above fifty thousand men bury'd in it as appear'd by an Inscription in brass whereby it was convey'd to posterity t The Suburbs also which runs out on the north-west side of London is large and had formerly a watch-tower or military ‖ Praetentura fence from whence it came to be call'd by an Arabick name Barbacan Barbacan By the gift of Edw. 3. it became a seat of the Uffords G●leottus Martius from whom by the Willoughbies it descended to 62 Sir Peregrine Berty Peregrine Bertie Lord Willoughby of Eresby a person every way of a generous temper and a true martial courage Nor are the Suburbs that shoot forth towards the north-east and east less considerable in the fields whereof whilst I am upon this work there are digg'd up many sepulchral Vessels Seals and Urns with Coins in them of Claudius Nero Vespasian c. Glass Vials also with small earthen vessels wherein was a sort of liquid Substance which I should imagine to be either an oblation of wine and milk us'd by the Romans at the burning of their dead or those odoriferous Liquors mention'd by Statius Phariique liquores Arsuram lavêre comam And precious odours sprinkled on his hair Prepar'd it for the flames This was a place set apart by the Romans for burning and burying their dead being oblig'd by the Twelve Tables to carry them without the Cities and to bury them by the military high-ways 63 To put passengers in mind that th●y are as those were subject to mortality And thus much of the land-side of the City u But upon the river-side and the south part of it Borough of Southwark See Surrey p. 160. that large Borough of Southwark before-mention'd is joyn'd to the city with a bridge first built on wooden piles where formerly instead of a bridge they pass'd the water in a ferry Afterwards The Bridge in the reign of K. John they built a new one of free-stone and admirable workmanship with 19 Arches beside that which makes the * Versatilis Draw-bridge and so continu'd it all along like a street with most handsome buildings that it may claim a preheminence over all the bridges in Europe whether you look upon the largeness or beauty In this Borough of Southwark the things that have been remarkable are a noble Abbey for Monks of the Benedictine Order call'd Bermondsey erected formerly to our Saviour by Aldwin Child S. Saviour Citizen of London and a stately house built by Charles Brandon Duke of Suffolk Suffolk-house which was pull'd down again after it had been for a little time the delight of its Master There still remains the Hospital of S. Thomas St. Thomas Hospital repair'd or rather founded by the City of London for the lame and infirm and the Church of the Priory of St. Mary which because it is seated over the Thames is with respect to the City of London call'd a The learned Dr. Hicks in his Saxon Grammar has observ'd that the Church's name is not taken from it's being over the river but from standing upon the banks of it ofre in Saxon signifying a bank S. Mary Over-Rhe founded for 64 Black Canons Canons by William Ponte del Arche a Norman as also the house of the Bishops of Winchester built by William Gifford Bishop about the year 1107. for the use of his successors From this along the Thames-side there runs westward a continu'd line of houses in which compass within the memory of our fathers there
those days for making of brick and divers other Romans coins and vessels were found as Mr. Stow tells us belonging to their Sacrifices and Burials beside what he mentions Such as the Coins of Trajan and Antoninus Pius Lamps Lachrymatories Patinae and vessels of white earth with long necks and handles which I suppose must be the Gutti used in their Sacrifices † Survey p. 177. There were many Roman Coins also discover'd in the foundations of Aldgate when it was rebuilt in the year 1607. which were formerly kept in the Guild-hall ‖ Ibid. p. 121 But many more of all kinds since the late fire in the foundations of St. Paul's Church now rebuilding and in the making of Fleet-ditch which were carefully collected by Mr. John Coniers Citizen and Apothecary of London and are now many of them in the possession of the ingenious Mr. Woodward the present Professor of Physick in Gresham-College London Many Urns and Coins have been also met with in digging the foundations of the new buildings in Goodmans-fields as there daily are in many other places upon the like occasions especially in the Suburbs of the City w Southwark was 't is true Apr. 23. 1549. 4 Edw. 6. purchased of the King by the Lord Mayor Commonalty and Citizens of London for the sum of Six hundred forty seven pounds two shillings and a penny and annext to their City and erected immediately into a new Ward call'd the Bridg-ward without and was thenceforth to be esteemed within the government and correction of the Lord Mayors and other Officers of London and their Deputies The inhabitants were licensed to enjoy and use all such Laws and Privileges whatsoever within their Borough and Precincts as the Citizens of London did within their City * Stow's Survey p 442 443. Which possibly might move our Author to place its history here But it was not thereby remov'd out of Surrey as appears by the provisions of the King's Grant whereby care is taken that the Lord Mayor should do and execute all such things within the Borough as other Justices might within the County of Surrey and that he as Escheator within the Borough and Precincts should have power to direct Precepts to the Sheriff of Surrey for the time being † See more of this in Surrey x The Hospital of christ-Christ-Church founded Anno 1552. by King Edward the sixth as it stood in our Author's time maintain'd but 600 Orphans whereof part Boys and part Girls and both the children of Freemen of this City Since the Fund being uncertain depending as well upon the casual charity both of living and dying persons as upon its real Estate the number has been augmented and diminisht in proportion to the increase and decrease of that sort of Charity However it seldom now maintains less than 1000 annually nor is there reason to fear they will ever have fewer Here having run through the several Schools at 15 years they are put forth to a seven years Apprenticeship except some Boys of the best parts who are sent to the Universities and there also maintain'd for seven years which is the present state of King Edward's foundation Mathematical School To this there has been added another of late years stiled the New Royal Foundation of King Charles the second consisting of 40 Boys all wearing Badges appropriate to their Institution to be fill'd up successively out of such of the above-mention'd Children as have attain'd to a competency in fair writing and Latin learning Thence-forward they are instructed in the Mathematicks and Art of Navigation till they are 16 years of age at which time they are disposed of in a seven years Apprenticeship to the practice of Navigation Which Institution most highly charitable in it self and tending to the honour and safety of the Kingdom as well as the security and advancement of our Trade was founded the 19th of August Anno 25 Car. 2. Earls of MIDDLESEX Sir Lionel Cranfield Kt. Merchant of London having for his great abilities been first made Master of the Requests then of the great Wardrobe and after of the Wards and at last privy Counsellor upon the 19. of July 19 Jac. 1. was advanced to the degree of a Baron of this Realm by the title of Lord Cranfield of Cranfield in Bedfordshire and to the office and dignity of Lord high Treasure of England and by Letters Patents bearing date Sept. 2. 1622. 20 Jac. 1. to the Earldom of Middlesex Who by his second wife Anne daughter to James Bret of Howbey in the County of Leicester Esquire had issue four sons James Edward Lionel and William whereof James and Lionel succeeded him in the Honour but both dying without issue this Title descended to his eldest daughter Frances married to Richard Earl of Dorset and her issue and is accordingly now enjoyed by the Right Honourable Charles Earl of Dorset and Middlesex Lord Chamberlain of the Houshold and Knight of the Garter More rare Plants growing wild in Middlesex communicated by Mr. James Petiver Filicula saxatilis ramosa maritima nostras Raii Synops Hist Plant. Small-branch'd Stone-fern On many old walls in and about London as the Savoy Westminster Royal Garden c. Fungus spongiosus niger reticulatus doliolis vinosis adnascens Raii synops Mr. Doody's spung-like Mushrome In most vaults sticking to the wine casks Eruca sylvestris Ger. sylv vulgatior Park major lutea caule aspero C. B. tenuifolia perennis fl luteo J. B. Wild Rocket On old walls about this City frequently as on London-wall between Cripplegate and Bishopsgate the Charter-house c. plentifully Viscum Ger. vulgare Park baccis albis C. B. Quercus aliarum arborum J. B. Misseltoe On some trees at Clarendon house St. James's Nasturtium aquaticum amarum Park majus amarum C. B. Nasturtium aq fl majore elatius Raii syn Bitter Cresses On the Thames-bank between Peterborough-house and Chelsey Conserva reticulata Raii Hist Plant. append 1852. synops 15. Mr. Doody's netted Crow-silk In some ditches about Westminster and Hounslow-heath Bardana major Rosea Park 1222. lappa Rosea C. B. prodr 102. Rose Burdock This variety which Caspar Bauhine averrs to be found frequently about Leipsick I have observed near the Thames between Westminster and Chelsey Juncus caule triangulari Merr. Pin. 67. The three-corner'd Bulrush In the Thames between Peterborough-house and the Horse-ferry Westminster Cyperus rotundus litoreus inodorus J. B. rotundus inodorus Anglicus C. B. rotundus lito●eos Ger. rotundus litoreus inodorus Anglicus Park Round-rooted Bastard Cyperus Sagitta aquatica omnium minima Raii synops append 242. The least Arrow-head Observed by that most curious Botanist Dr. Plukenet to grow with the two last Salix minima fragilis foliis longissimis untrinqueviridibus non serratis Raii synops append 238. Dr. Sherard's Green Osier Amongst the Willows on the Thames side between Westminster and Chelsey Salix folio Amygdalino utrinque aurito corticem abjiciens Raii synops 216. Almond-leav'd
an honourable series of Earls and Lords are descended From hence passing through Earls-Coln so call'd by reason of its being the burying place of the Earls of Oxford where Aubry de Vere 24 In the time of King Henry 1. founded a small Convent and took himself a religious habit it goes on to Colonia which Antoninus mentions and makes a different place from Colonia Camaloduni Whether this Colonia Colonia be deriv'd from the same word signifying a Colony or from the river Coln let Apollo determine k For my part I am more inclin'd to the latter opinion since I have seen several little towns that adding the name of Coln to that of their respective Lords are call'd Earls-Coln Wakes-Coln Coln-Engain Whites-Coln This city the Britains call'd Caer Colin the Saxons Coleceaster and we Colchester Colchester 'T is a beautiful populous and pleasant place extended on the brow of an hill from West to East surrounded with walls and adorn'd with 15 parish-Parish-Churches besides that large Church which Eudo Sewer to Henry 1. built in honour of St. John This is now turn'd into a private house In the middle of the city stands a castle ready to fall with age Historians report it to have been built by Edward son to Aelfred when he repair'd Colchester which had suffer'd very much in the wars 25 And long after Maud the Empress gave it to Alberic Vere to assure him to her party But that this city flourish'd even more than ever in the time of the Romans abundance of their coins found every day fully evince l Though I have met with none ancienter than Gallienus the greatest part of them being those of the Tetrici Victorini Posthumus C. Carausius Helena mother to Constantine the Great Constantine and the succeeding Emperours The inhabitants glory that Fl. Julia Helena mother to Constantine the Great was born in this city daughter to King Coelus And in memory of the Cross which she found they bear for their arms a Cross enragled between four Crowns Of her and of this city thus sings Alexander Necham though with no very lucky vein Effulsit sydus vitae Colcestria lumen Septem Climatibus lux radiosa dedit Sydus erat Constantinus decus imperiale Serviit huic flexo poplite Roma potens A star of life in Colchester appear'd Whose glorious beams of light seven climats shar'd Illustrious Constantine the world's great Lord Whom prostrate Rome with awful fear ador'd The truth is she was a woman of a most holy life and of an unweary'd constancy in propagating the Christian Faith whence in old inscriptions she is often stiled PIISSIMA and VENERA-BILIS AUGUSTA Between this city where the Coln emptieth it self into the sea lyes the the little town of St. Osith the old name was * Cice by the Saxon Annals Chic Chic the present it receiv'd from the holy Virgin St. Osith S. Osithe who devoting her self entirely to God's service and being stabbed here by the Danish pyrates was by our ancestors esteem'd a Saint In memory of her Richard Bishop of London about the year 1120. built a Religious house and fill'd it with Canons Regular This is now the chief seat of the right honourable the Lords Darcy Barons Darcy of Chich. stiled Lords of Chich who were advanc'd to the dignity of Barons by Edward the sixth 26 When he created Sir Thomas Darcy his Councellor Vice-Chamberlain and Captain of the Guard Lord Darcy of Chich. m From hence is stretch'd out a vast shore as far as Nesse-point Nesse in Saxon Eadulphesness What was once found hereabouts let Ralph de Coggeshal tell you who wrote about 350 years ago In the time of King Richard on the sea-shore in a village call'd Edulfinesse were found two teeth of a Giant Giants of such a prodigious bigness that two hundred of such teeth as men ordinarily have now might be cut out of one of them These I saw at Cogshal and handled with great admiration Another I know not what Gigantick relique was found near this place in the beginning of Q. Elizabeth by the noble R. Candish I can't deny but there have been men of such extraordinary bulk and strength as to be accounted prodigies whom God as St. Austin tells us therefore produc'd in the world to show that comeliness of body and greatness of stature were therefore not to be esteem'd among the good things because they were common to the impious with the virtuous and religious Yet we may justly suspect what Suetonius hath observ'd that the vast joints and members of great beasts dugg up in other countries and in this kingdom too have been commonly term'd and reputed the bones of Giants Bones of Giants n From this point the shore runs back a little to the Stour's mouth famous for a sea-fight between the Saxons and Danes in the year 884. Here is now seated Harewich Harewi●● a very safe harbour as the name imports for the Saxon Hare-ƿic signifies as much as an haven or bay where an army may lye 27 The town is not great but well peopled fortified by art and nature and made more fencible by Queen Elizabeth The salt-water so creeketh about it that it almost insulateth it but thereby maketh the springs so brackish that there is a defect of fresh water whcih they fetch-some good way off o This is that Stour which parteth Essex and Suffolk and on this side runs by no memorable place only some fat pastures But not far from the spring of this river stands Bumsted which the family of the Helions held by Barony 28 From whom the Wentworths of Gosfield are descended And in those parts of this county which are opposite to Cambridgeshire lyes Barklow Barkl w. Old Ba●rows famous for four great Barrows such as our ancestors us'd to raise to the memory of those Soldiers that were kill'd in battel and their bodies lost But when two others in the same place were dugg up and search'd we are told that they found three stone Coffins and abundance of pieces of bones in them The Country-people have a tradition that they were rais'd after a battel with the Danes And the † Wall-wort or Dwarf-elder that grows hereabouts in great plenty and bears red berries they call by no other name but Dane's-blood Danes-blood denoting the multitude of Danes that were there slain Lower among the fields that look pleasantly with Saffron is seated g Call'd formerly Walden-burg and afterwards Cheping-Walden Walden Wald●● a market-town call'd thence Saffron-Walden 29 Incorporated by King Edward 6. with a Treasurer two Chamberlains and the Commonalty It was famous formerly for the castle of the Magnavils which now scarce appears at all and for an adjacent little Monastery 30 Founded in a place very commodious in the year 1136. Commonly call'd Ma●d●ville● in which the Magnavils founders of it lye interr'd Jeffrey de Magnaville was
and Thet are not very unlike 'T is now but thin peopled tho' pretty large and formerly a populous and famous place Besides other marks of it's Antiquity it shews a huge mote thrown up to a great height fortify'd with a double rampire and formerly too as they say with walls Some will have it to have been a work of the Romans but others are rather inclin'd to think it done by the Saxon Kings under whom it was in a flourishing condition for a long while But by the cruelty of Sueno the Dane who set it on fire in the year 1003. and that of the Danes who spoil'd it 6 years after it lost all it's dignity and grandeur To restore which Arfastus the Bishop remov'd his Episcopal See from Elmham to this place and his successor William spar'd neither cost nor pains for it's ornament so that under Edward the Confessor there were reckon'd in it 947 Burgesses And in the time of William the Conquerour it had 720 mansions whereof 224 stood empty and their chief Magistrate was stil'd Consul 1 Which name may intimate that it was a Roman town But when Herbert sirnam'd b Leasung in Saxon signifies a Lye or trick Losenga as being almost made up of lying and flattery the third Bishop that rais'd himself to this honour by ill arts and bribery had translated this See to Norwich it relaps'd as if come to it 's last period Nor did the Monastery of Cluniacks built there by his means make amends for the removal of the Bishop The house was built by Hugh Bigod as appears from what he says in his original Foundation-Charter I Hugh Bigod Steward to King Henry by his consent and the advice of Herbert Bishop of Norwich plac'd Cluniac-Monks in the Church of St. Mary lately the Episcopal See of Thetford which I gave them and afterwards founded them another more convenient without the village Then the greatest part of the City which had stood in the hither bank fell to decay by little and little but in the other part tho' that too fail'd very much about two ages since there were seven Churches besides three small Monasteries one whereof they say was built in memory of the English and Danes slain here For our Historians tell us that the most holy King Edmund a little before his death engag'd the Danes hard by for seven hours together not without vast loss on both sides and that at last they parted with equal success such effect had those frequent turns of fortune on both sides that it had made them altogether senseless NORFOLK By Robt. Morden The Yare has not run much towards the east till a little river Wentsum by others call'd Wentfar empties it self into it from the south Upon this near it's rise is a square entrenchment at Taiesborrough containing 24 Acres It seems to be an Encampment of the Romans possibly that which by the Chorographical Table publish'd by Mark Velser is call'd Ad Taum Higher up upon the same river formerly stood Venta Icenorum 〈◊〉 Ice●●m the most flourishing City of this People but now it has lost the ancient name and is call'd Caster ●●●●●r Nor need we wonder that of the three Ventae in Britain this alone should have lost it's name when it has lost it's very being For now setting aside the broken walls which in a square contain about 30 acres the marks where the buildings have stood and some Roman Coins which they now and then dig up there is nothing left h But in after-ages Norwich at three miles distance had it's rise out of this standing near the confluence of Yare and another anonymous river call'd by some Bariden which in a long course 11 By Fakenham which K. Hen. 1. gave to Hugh Capel and K. John afterward to the Earl of Arundel with it's dinted and winding banks comes this way by Attilbridge leaving Horsford ●●●sf●●d to the north where the Castle of William de Casinet or Cheney who in the reign of Hen. 2. was a chief man among the Nobility lies overgrown with bushes and brambles The Norwich ●●●wich above-mention'd is a famous City call'd in Saxon Norðƿic i.e. the northern bay or bosom if ƿic in Saxon signifies a bay or winding 〈◊〉 what ●●gn●f●es ●●●g the 〈◊〉 as Rhenanus has told us for here the river runs along with crooked windings or the northern Station if ƿic as Hadrianus Junius will have it signifie a secure Station where the houses are built close one to another or else the northern castle if ƿic as 12 Archbishop Alfrick the Saxon has affirm'd denote a Castle i But if I should imagine with some that Norwich were the same with Venta what were it but a downright renouncing Truth For it has no better title to the name of Venta than either Basil has to that of Augusta ●●●usta or Baldach to Babilonia ●●●co●● Namely as this latter rose upon the fall of Babilonia and the former upon that of Augusta just so our Norwich grew up long after the decay of the ancient Venta Which appears from it's British name in Authors Caer Guntum wherein as in the river Wentsum or Wentfar we find the plain remains of the name Venta For the name of Norwich does not appear in any Writer before the time of the Danish wars So far is it from having been built either by Caesar or Guiteline the Britain as some fabulous Authors tell you who swallow every thing that comes without either consideration or judgment However at present upon account of it's wealth populousness neatness of buildings beautiful Churches with the number of them for it has a matter of 30 Parishes as also the industry of it's Citizens Loyalty to their Prince and Civility to Foreigners it is to be reckon'd among the most considerable Cities in Britain It 's Latitude is 52 degrees 40 minutes the Longitude 24 degrees 55 minutes 'T is pleasantly seated long-ways on the side of an hill reaching from south to north a mile and a half the breadth of it is hardly half so much and towards the south it draws it self in as it were by little and little like a Cone It is fortify'd with walls that have a great many turrets and eleven gates on all sides except the east which the river defends with a deep chanel and steep banks after it has with it's winding reach wash'd the northern part where 't is made passable by four bridges In the infancy as it were of this City and the reign of King Etheldred a Prince of no manner of policy or conduct Sweno the Dane who invaded England with a great army first spoil'd and then burnt it Notwithstanding which it recover'd it self and as appears by the Conquerour's Survey-book in the reign of Edward the Confessor reckon'd 1320 Burgesses At which time to use the expression of that Book it paid 20 pound to the King and 10 to the Earl and beside that 20
nor burrow for that King requiring an account of the cities burrows and villages of this Shire Norwich was the only City return'd and Yarmouth and Lynne the only burrows possibly because such had only that name as sent Representatives to Parliament whereas that Privilege was not then granted to this place c Northeast from hence lyes Buckenham Buckenham which can scarce be suppos'd to come from bucken beach-trees as our Author imagines but rather from the great number of bucks with which the neighbouring woods may be easily suppos'd to have been well-stock d as at this day they do not altogether want them as for beeches they have few or none d In the time of Henry 3. it pass'd from the Earl of Arundel to the Tatsals for then upon default of heir-male this large estate was divided amongst daughters Since it came into the family of the Knivets Philip Knivet who in Sir Henry Spelman's time was the possessor had the title of Baronet conferr'd upon him but the ancient estate was very much gone to decay e From hence we pass into the Hundred of Forehowe so call'd from the four hills upon which are held their meetings as Sir Henry Spelman has observ'd and heah in Saxon is at this day high On the Southeast side thereof lyes Wimundham or Windham Windham sold by the last of the Knivets of that place to Henry Hobart Chief Justice of the Common Pleas. There is this Epitaph upon William de Albeney Butler to K. Henry 1. and founder of a Monastery of Black-Monks there Hunc Pincerna locum fundavit hic jacet illa Quae dedit huic domui jam sine fine tenet f At Depeham Depeham in the same Hundred is a Linden-tree of vast bigness mention'd and describ'd by Mr. Evelyn in his Sylva where he calls it Tillia Colossia Depemensis To the eye it stands over the other trees when view'd at a distance as a Giant to so many pigmies At the foot of it is a spring which petrifies sticks leaves and whatever falls into it South from hence is Attilburrough Attilborough a place if John Bramis a Monk of Thetford may be credited of great note and antiquity He will have it built and fortify'd by Atlynge a King of those parts and his evidence for it are two Copies of that History which he translated one in French and the other in old English But whatever credit this may deserve 't is certain that the termination burrough wherever it occurs denotes something of antiquity as a castle a fort or such like g Between this and Norwich is Carleton Carleton which our Author tells us was held upon condition of carrying a hundred herings bak'd in pies to the King wherever he was The town of Yarmouth by Charter is bound to send to the Sheriffs of Norwich these hundred herrings but they are to be bak'd in 24 pies or pasties and thence deliver'd to the Lord of the manour of East-Carlton who is to convey them to the King This is every year duly observ'd to this day and an Indenture drawn up the substance whereof is That upon delivery of these pies to the Lord of the manour he shall acknowledge the receipt and be obliged to convey them to the King I have seen a Copy of one made ten years since and the same is every year drawn up with the necessary alterations At a little distance Eastward is Castor Castor the famous Roman camp which agrees exactly with the description given by Polybius Vegetius and others concerning the Roman's ancient way of encampment The faces for the four gates are still manifestly to be seen The Porta Praetoria lookt toward the east opposite to which without the Porta Decumana and close by the river's side there still remain some ruins of a tower The walls enclosing the camp were of flint and very large bricks i From hence we are carried to Norwich Norwic● the original of which name seems plainly to be from the castle there For though it cannot be deny'd but ƿic as Mr. Camden observes signifies as well a bosom of the sea a station for ships and a village as a castle yet the circumstances seem here to determine it to the last sense For the initial North being a relative term must have something directly contrary to answer it whereas we meet with no bays or bosoms on the south-side but not above three miles south we find the remains of an ancient royal castle which still keeps some footsteps of antiquity in its name of Castor Now from hence the age of the town does in some measure appear For if it took its name from the castle 't is evident it must be of less antiquity The castle indeed one would imagine from the circular form of the ditch and vast compass of it to have been either Danish or Norman but that there must have been one earlier is clear both from the Saxon original and a charter of Henry 1. directed to Harvey first Bishop of Ely whereby that Church is absolv'd from all services due to the Castle of Norwich Now as Sir Henry Spelman very well observes such services could not be impos'd whilst the lands were in the hands of the Bishops Monks c. and by consequence must needs become due whilst in the hands of some secular owner and the last was Tombertus Governour of the Southern Girvii who bestow'd them upon his wife Aetheldreda foundress of the Monastery of Ely about the year 677. So that from hence it appears that the age of this castle reaches at least so low and perhaps much lower The reason why the Church-lands were exempt from services seems to be express'd in the Laws of Edward the second because the prayers of the Church ought to be look'd upon as more effectual than secular assistance The City is honour'd by making up one of the many titles of his Grace Henry Duke of Norfolk whose father was created by King Charles the second in the 24th of his Reign Earl of Norwich k From hence the river leads us to Redeham ●●●●●●m a small village upon the same river so call'd from the reeds growing in the marshy grounds thereabouts Here it was that Lothbroc the Danish Noble-man landed being by a sudden storm driven from his own coast whilst he was a hawking and finding entertainment at King Edmund's Court then at Castor liv'd there till he was murther'd by the King's huntsman Upon the news his sons though the murtherer had been sufficiently punish'd and with 20000 men to revenge the death of their father waste the whole kingdom of the East-Angles and on the 20th of Novemb. An. 870. barbarously murther the King of it By this account Redeham must be of elder date than Yarmouth because if this h●d been then built Lothbroc had no doubt stopt there for assistance and directions l At Yarmouth the river Thyrn likewise empties it self into the sea upon which stands Blickling
the Saxons died in this City and was here interr'd altho' he left commands to the contrary for he as 't is related by Ninnius Eluodugus's disciple hop'd and was fully perswaded that his Ghost would defend Britain from the Saxons if he should be buried on the Sea-shore But yet the Saxons after they had demolish'd this old Lindum first inhabited the South-side of the hill 11 At the foot whereof they built as it seemeth the gate yet standing compiled of vast stones and fortified it with the ruins of the former town afterwards they went down near the river built in a place call'd Wickanforde and wall'd it on that side where it was not guarded by the water At which time Paulinus as Bede Bede affirms preach'd the word of God in the Province of Lindesey and first of all converted the Governour of the city Lindcolnia whose name was Blecca with his whole family He built in this city a curious Church of stone the roof whereof is either fall'n down for want of repairing or beat down by force of some enemy for the walls are yet to be seen standing Afterwards the Danes won it twice by assault first when those pillaging troops took it from whom Edmund Ironside wrested it by force secondly when Canutus took it from whom 't was retaken by Aetheldred who on his return out of Normandy valiantly drove Canutus out of this town and beyond all expectation recover'd England which was very nigh lost In Edward the Confessor's reign there was in it as 't is set down in Domesday-book one thousand and seventy Inns for entertainment and twelve Lagemen having their Sac and Soc. 'T was indeed in the Norman times as Malmsbury relates one of the most populous cities of England and a mart for all goods coming by land and water for at that time there were taxed in it as 't is in the said Domesday-book Nine hundred Burgesses and many dwelling houses to the number of one hundred sixty and six were destroy'd for the castle with 74 more without the limits of the castle not by the oppression of the Sheriff and his Ministers but by misfortune poverty and fire William the first to strengthen it and to keep the Citizens in awe built a very large and strong castle on the ridge of the hill and about the same time Remigius Bishop of Dorchester to grace it transferr'd hither from Dorchester a little town in the farthest part of his Diocese his Bishop's See And when the Church erected by Paulinus was utterly decay'd The aforesaid R●migius bought in the very highest part of the city several houses with the ground thereto belonging near the castle that overtops all as Henry of Huntingdon notes with its mighty towers and built in a strong place a strong and fine Church dedicated to the Virgin Mary and endow'd it with 44 Prebends at which the Arch-bishop of York was very angry for he claim'd for himself the property of the ground This Church being disfigur'd by fire was afterwards repair'd as the said Henry mentions with very great art by Alexander that bountiful Bishop of Lincoln of whom the aforesaid William of Malmsbury speaks thus Seeing he was lookt upon as a prodigy by reason of his small body his mind strove to excel and be the more famous in the world and among other things a Poet of that age wrote thus Qui dare festinans gratis ne danda rogentur Quod nondum dederat nondum se credit habere Still with frank gifts preventing each request What is not yet bestow'd he thinks not yet possest And not only these two but Robert Bloet who was predecessor to Alexander and R. de Beaumeis Hugo Burgundus and their successors contributed to advance this work which was too much for one Bishop to its present state and grandeur The whole pile is not only very costly but indeed very beautiful and excellent for its workmanship especially that porch on the West-side which attracts and delights every beholders eye Altho' there be many tombs of Bishops and others in this Church yet the only ones worth our notice are that of brass in which the entrails of the most excellent Queen Eleanor wife to Edward the first 12 Who dy'd at Hardby in this Shire are interr'd and that of 13 Sir Nicholas Nicholas de Cantelupo with one or two belonging to the family of Burghersh also that of Katharine Swinford third wife to John of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster and mother of the Somerset-family with whom lyes buried her daughter Joan second wife to Ralph Nevill the first Earl of Westmorland who had many children by her The Diocese of the Bishops of Lincoln being of a far greater extent than that of the Bishops of Sidnacester who in the primitive Saxon Church presided in this County contain'd under it so many Counties that its greatness was a burden to it and altho' Henry the second took out of it the Diocese of Ely and Henry the eighth those of Peterborough and Oxford yet 't is still counted the largest Bishoprick in England both for jurisdiction and number of shires and contains no less than 1247 parish-Parish-Churches Many excellent Bishops have govern'd this See since Remigius but to be particular in reckoning them is beyond my design And therefore make no mention of Robert Bloet on whom King William Rufus set an amercement of 50000 pounds alledging that the Bishop's title to the city of Lincoln was defective ●●eden nor of that bountiful Alexander who was ever extravagantly fond of prodigious buildings nor yet of Hugo Burgundus who being canoniz'd had his corps carry'd to the grave as my Author says on the shoulders of King John and his Nobles out of respect and duty to God and the sainted Prelate I must not however omit mentioning two persons 〈◊〉 di●d ● ●233 the one Robert Grostest a better Scholar and Linguist than could be expected from the age he liv'd in ●atth Paris ●d an ●nymous ●t●rian an awe to the Pope a Monitor to the King a Lover of Truth a Corrector of Prelates a Director of Priests an Instructor of the Clergy a Maintainer of Scholars a Preacher to the People and a diligent Searcher of Scripture a Mallet to the Romanists c. The other is the most reverend Father Thomas Cooper very deserving both from the Common-wealth of Learning and from the Church whom I am bound always to honour for that he was the Master in whose School I must graetfully own I had my education The city it self also flourish'd for a long time being made by Edward the third a Staple ●he Staple as they call it that is a Mart for Wooll Leather Lead c. Tho' it cannot have reason to complain of great misfortunes yet it has been once burnt once besieged and that in vain by King Stephen who was there overthrown and taken prisoner and once taken by Henry the third defended then against him by his rebellious Barons who
Norman-writers Nichol and Mr. Thomas Twyne in his Breviary of Britain fol. 24. b. says he has observ'd the same many times in ancient Charters and Records of the Earls thereof written in the French-tongue And even as low as Edward the fourth's time William Caxton in his Chronicle entitl'd Fructus temporum pag. 141. and 295. calls it Nichol. I know none who remove the Roman Lindum from hence except Talbot who carries it to Lenton in Nottinghamshire which opinion we have consider'd in its proper place ‖ Itinerar p. 21. Leland tells us he heard say that the lower part of Lincoln-town was all marish and won by policy and inhabited for the commodity of the water è regione that this part of the town is call'd Wikerford and in it are 11 Parochial-Churches besides which he saw one in ruins The White-Fryers were on the west-side of the High-street in Wikerford * Pag. 22 That beyond old Lincoln much money is found in the North-fields What Mr. Camden has concerning the decay of this town wherein he says of 50 Churches are scarce left 18 he seems to have borrow'd from a hint of Leland's and if he had no other authority it seems to be deliver'd in terms too positive and general For Leland mentions it very tenderly and only says † Ibid. There goeth a common fame that there were once 52 parish-Parish-Churches in lincoln-Lincoln-city and the suburbs of it At a little distance from Lincoln is Nocton Nocton formerly a Religious-house where is a very magnificent seat lately built by Sir William Ellys Baronet At Wragby Wragby eight miles East of Lincoln the wife of one Charles Gays An. Dom. 1676. brought forth a male-child with two heads which liv'd some hours The mother of the child is still living and keeps an Inn in the town and the matter of fact can be attested by at least 100 people who saw it u Upon the little river Bane stands Horn-castle Horn-castle which evidently appears to have been a Camp or Station of the Romans as from the Castle which is Roman work so also from the Roman coins several whereof were found therein the time of Charles the first and some they meet with at this day tho' not so commonly in the field adjoyning The compass of the Castle was about 20 Acres which is yet plainly discernable by the foundation of the whole and some part of the wall still standing It is a Seigniory or Soke of 13 Lordships and was given by King Richard the second to the Bishop of Carlisle and his Successors for his habitation and maintenance when by the frequent incursions of the Scots he was driven from his castle of Rose in Cumberland and spoil'd of his revenues Three miles South-east from hence is Winceby Winceby where Octob. 5. 1643. was a battel fought between the King and Parliament the forces of the first commanded by Colonel Henderson and the Lord Widdrington those of the latter by Colonel Cromwell The fight scarce lasted an hour and the victory fell to the Parliament w At the meeting of the rivers Bane and Witham is Tatteshall Totteshall where in the front of the castle not long since were to be seen the Arms of the Cromwells the ancient Lords of it It afterwards came to be one of the seats of the Clintons Earls of Lincoln besides another at Sempringham which Mr. Camden mentions in this County x At a little distance from Bullingbrook is Eresby Eresby which gives the title of Baron to the Earl of Lindsey the third division of this County The first who enjoy'd this title o● Earl was Robert Lord Willoughby of Eresby crea●●● Nov. 22. in the second year of King Charles 1. He was son to that Peregrine Berty whom Catharine Baroness of Willoughby and Dutchess of Suffolk bore to Richard Berty while they made their escape into foreign parts in Queen Mary's persecution He was call d Peregrine eo quod in terra peregrina pro consolatione exilii sui piis parentibus à Domino donatus sit as the publick Register of Wesel in the Dutchy of Cleve where he was born expresses it At the request of the honourable Mr. Charles Berty Envoy extraordinary to the Electors and other Princes of Germany in his passage through that City the Burgomasters Aldermen and Counsellors took a copy of the evidences of his birth and Christening as they found it in their Register and presented it to him under the common seal of the City This Robert the first Earl Lord High Chamberlain of England was succeeded by his son and heir Mountague upon the restoration of Charles 2. made Knight of the Garter who dying in the year 1666. was succeeded by Robert his eldest son y A little above Bullingbroke stands Hareby Hareby eminent for the death of Queen Eleanor wife to King Edward 1. who being conveyed from thence to Westminster had a great many Crosses erected to her memory in several noted places This is the more observable because our Chronicles tell us she dy'd at a place call'd Hardby without giving us any hints where it stands z Hard by is Bollingbroke Bollingbroke whereof Oliver Lord St. John of Bletso was created Earl 22 Jac. 1. Dec. 28. and was succeeded by his grandchild Oliver St. John by Pawlet his second son Oliver Lord St. John the eldest being slain at Edge-hill fight At present the place gives the title of Earl to the right honourable Pawlet St. John aa More towards the sea lies Boston Boston where Mr. John Fox Author of the Acts and Monuments was born bb At Grimesby Grimesby were formerly three Religious-houses i.e. one Nunnery and two Monasteries and not far from the same coast between Salflet-haven and Louth is Salfletby memorable for its late Minister Mr. John Watson who was incumbent 74 years during which time as he himself reported it he buried the inhabitants three times over save three or four persons He had by one wife fourteen sons and three daughters the youngest now past the fiftieth year of his age In all this time he was a constant industrious Preacher except during his imprisonment for 40 weeks in Lincoln Gaol by Cromwell who put a Militia-Drummer in his place Since the present reign he was also suspended ab officio but considering his great age not à beneficio He dy'd in Aug. 1693. aged 102. cc Turning to the west towards the river Trent we meet with Osgodby Osgodby otherwise call'd Ostegobby and Osgoteby where Mr. Camden places the seat of St. Medardo and deduces it to the family of Ashcough But Mr. Dugdale has assur'd us that the whole is a manifest mistake that family belonging to another Osgodby in the same County about 30 miles south of this dd Directly towards Lincoln is Stow Stow. the Church whereof is a large building in the form of a cross and very ancient It was founded by Eadnoth a Bishop of Dorchester in Oxfordshire
heath a little beyond Wrauby in the way to Hull Rhamnus Salicis folio angusto fructu flavescente C. B. Secundus Clusii Ger. emac. primus Dioscoridis Lobelio sive litoralis Park Rhamnus vel Oleaster Germanicus J. B. Sallow-thorn On the sea-banks on Lindsey coast plentifully NOTTINGHAMSHIRE THE County of Nottingham borders upon that of Lincoln on the west but is of much less extent call'd by the Saxons a Snotingaham-scyre is it's name in our most ancient Saxon Records Snottengaham-rcyne by us Nottinghamshire bounded on the north by Yorkshire on the west by Derbyshire and in some parts by Yorkshire and on the south by the County of Leicester The south and east parts are enrich'd by that most noble river the Trent and the rivulets which run into it The west part is entirely took up with the forest of Shirwood which is very large This part because it is sandy the inhabitants call the Sand the other because it is clayish they call the Clay and thus have they divided their County into these two parts a The Trent The Trent in Saxon Tneonta which some Antiquaries of less note have call'd in Latin Triginta from its affinity with that French word which is used to signifie this number after it has run a long way 1 And receiv'd into it's chanel the river Soure running hither from the County of Leicester where it first enters into this County passes by Steanford Steanford where there are many b Whatever there was in our Author's time 't is not famous at present for either Roman or other Antiquity It 's greatest ornament is a Church lately repair'd and beautify'd at the charge of Thomas Lewes the present Patron thereof remains of Antiquity yet extant and many Roman Coyns found as I am informed and then by Clifton Clifton which has given both a seat and name to the ancient family of the Cliftons 2 Much enrich'd by one of the heirs of Cressy Then it receives the little river Lin River Lin. from the west which rising near Newsted i.e. a new place where formerly King Hen. 2. built a small Monastery now the seat of the Byrons Byrons an ancient family descended from Ralph de Buron who in the beginning of the Norman times flourish'd in great state both in this County and Lancashire it runs near Wollaton Wollaton where in this age Sir Francis Willoughby Kt out of ostentation to show his riches built at vast charges a very stately house both for splendid appearance and the curious workmanship of it After this it washes Lenton Lenton formerly famous for a Monastery built in honour of the Holy Trinity by William Peverel the natural son of King William the Conquerour at present only for the throng Fairs there Where on the other side almost at the confluence of the Lin and Trent and upon the side of a hill stands Nottingham Nottingham which has given name to this County and is the chief town in it the word being nothing but a soft contraction of Snottenga-ham For so the Saxons call'd it from the caves and passages under ground which the Ancients for their retreat and habitation mined under these steep rocks in the south part toward the little river Lin. Hence Asser renders the Saxon word Snottengaham Speluncarum domum in Latin and in British it is c See Florence of Worcester An. 890. Tui ogo bauc which signifies the very same namely a house of dens In respect of situation the town is very pleasant there lie on this side toward the river very large meadows on the other hills of easie and gentle ascent it is also plentifully provided with all the necessaries of life On this side Shirewood supplies them with great store of wood for fire tho' many burn pit-coal the smell whereof is offensive on the other the Trent serves them with fish very plentifully Hence this its barbarous verse Limpida sylva focum ‖ Trent Triginta dat mihi piscem Shirewood my fuel Trent my fish supplies To wind up all by its bigness building three neat Churches an incomparable fine market-place and a very strong castle the town is really beautiful The Castle stands on the west side of the city upon an exceeding steep rock in which very spot that tower is believ'd to have been which the Danes relying upon held out against the siege of Aethered and Alfred till without effecting any thing they rose and ‖ Vasa conclamarint retir'd For when the Danes had got this castle d His true name is Burhred Burthred King of the Mercians as Asser says e Florence of Worcester An. 890. tells us the same and the Mercians sent messengers to Aethered King of the West-Saxons and to Alfred his brother humbly intreating that they would aid them so that they might engage the foresaid army This request they easily obtain'd For the two brothers having drawn together a great army from all parts with as much dispatch as they had promis'd enter'd Mercia and march'd as far as Snottenga-ham unanimously desiring to fight them But when the Pagans refus'd to give them battel securing themselves in the castle and the Christians were not able to batter down the walls of the castle a peace was concluded between the Mercians and the Pagans and the two brothers return'd home with their forces Afterwards Edward the Elder built the village Bridgesford Bridgesford over against it and rais'd a wall which is now fallen quite round the city The only remains extant of it are on the west part A few years after this namely in Edward the Confessor's time as it is in Domesday there were reckon'd 173 Burgesses in it and † De duobus Monetartis from the two Mints there was paid forty shillings to the King Moreover the water of Trent and the Foss dike and the way towards York were all lookt after that if any one hinder'd ships from passing * Emendare habuit he might he amerc'd four pounds As for the castle which now stands there both the founder and the bigness of it make it remarkable For William the Norman built it to awe the English b by nature and art together it was so strong as William of Newburrow tells us That it seem'd invincible by any thing but famine provided it had but a sufficient garrison in it Afterwards Edward the fourth rebuilt it at great charge and adorn'd it with curious buildings to which Richard the third also made some additions Nor has it ever in any revolution undergone the common fate of great castles for it was never taken by down-right force Once only it was besieg'd and that in vain by Henry of Anjou at which time the garrison burnt down all the buildings about it 1175. Rog. Hoveden p. 307. It was once also taken by surprize by Robert Count de Ferrariis in the Barons war who depriv'd the citizens of all they
accounts of his Steward The Castle in the late Civil wars was demolish'd by those that had purchas'd it of the Parliament with design to make money of the materials q In the utmost Northern bound is Sutton-Colefield 〈◊〉 ●olefield where the Earls of Warwick had a Chase of great extent The market is now almost wholly disused and the Bishop of Exeter mention'd by our Author liv'd and dy'd here in the 103. year of his age r Next is Coleshill ●ol●shill where in an old foundation was lately dug up a Roman copper Coin of Trajan's and not far from it Blith ●●●h memorable for nothing but that it was purchas'd by Sir William Dugdale and was his place of residence when he compil'd that accurate and elaborate work his Antiquities of this County s We come next to Coventry Coventry the walls and towers whereof were demolish'd at the Restoration by command of King Charles 2. the gates only left standing by which one may guess at the strength and beauty of the former Edward 4. for their disloyalty took the Sword from the Mayor and seiz'd their Liberties and Franchises which they redeem'd for 500 marks In memory of Leofric who dy'd 13 of Edward the Confessor and Godiva his Countess their pictures were set up in the windows Trinity Church with this Inscription I Lurick for the love of thee Do set Coventry toll-free And a Procession or Cavilcade is still yearly made in memory of Godiva with a naked figure representing her riding on horse-back through the City They have a stately Cross built 33 Hen. 8. by Sir William Hollies sometime Lord Mayor of London for workmanship and beauty inferiour to few in England The City among other things is famous for the two Parliaments held in it the former in the 6 Hen. 4. call'd from the exclusion of the Lawyers Parliamentum indoctorum the latter in the 38 Hen. 6. from the Attainder of Richard Duke of York the Earls of Salisbury Warwick and March call'd by some Parliamentum Diabolicum Since our Author's time it hath afforded the title of Earl to George Villiers created Earl of Coventry and Duke of Buckingham 18. May 21 Jac. 1. in which honours he was succeeded by his son of the same name t From Coventry let us pass to Brinklow Brinklow famous for an ancient castle † Dugd. War p. 147 It is in all probability older than the Norman Conquest otherwise our publick Records or some other Authorities would certainly have taken notice of it If we should carry it back to the times of the Romans there are several circumstances which seem to justifie such a conjecture As the Saxons very often applying their Hleaƿ from whence our low comes to such places as were remarkable for the Roman Tumuli that there is an eminent tumulus upon which the Keep or Watch-tower of the castle did stand that it lies upon the Roman Fosse and is at a convenient distance from the Bennones u Passing hence northward to the river Anker on the western bank thereof we find Manceter Manceter confirm'd to be the ancient Manduessedum by divers coyns of silver and brass which have been by digging and plowing frequently brought to light w In the same Parish is Oldbury Oldbury a place of great antiquity as appears by a Quadrangular Fort containing seven acres of ground In the North-part of it there have been found several flint-stones about four inches in length curiously wrought by grinding or some such way The one end is shap'd like the edge of a Pole-ax and by Sir William Dugdale they are thought to have been weapons us'd by the Britains before the art of making arms of brass and iron They must have been brought hither for some extraordinary use because there are no flints to be found within 40 miles of the place One of them is now to be seen in Ashmole's Musaeum at Oxford x On the other side of the river northward Pollesworth lies Pollesworth where Sir Francis Nethersole a Kentish Gentleman and sometime publick Orator to the University of Cambridge at the instance of his Lady built a Free-school on the front whereof is this Inscription Soli Deo Gloria Schola pauperum Puerorum Puellarum He enseoft six Gentlemen and seven Divines in as much as amounted to 140 l. per annum at the least for a liberal maintenance of a School-master and School-mistress to teach the children of the Parish And what remain'd was to be employ'd in charitable uses such as he in his life time should think fit and in default of his own actually disposing of it left it to the discretion of his Trustees He likewise he built a fair house for the Vicar of Pollesworth y Farther North is Seckinton Seckinton which as it is memorable for the battel between Aethelbald and Beornred so I may further add that it took its name from that engagement secce in Saxon signifying battel and dun which afterwards was chang'd into ton a hill Scarce a furl●ng north of the Church is a notable fort and near it an artificial hill of 43 foot high Continuation of the EARLS Ambrose Dudley the last Earl dying in the year 1589. Robert Lord Rich of Leeze was created Earl of Warwick 16 Jac. 1. and soon after dying was succeeded by his son and grandson both Roberts Charles brother to the latter was next Earl who dying 24 Aug. 1673. left the honour to Robert Rich Earl of Holland his Cousin-german Which Robert was succeeded in both the honours by Edward his son and heir More rare Plants growing wild in Warwickshire Though I have lived some years in this County yet have I met with no peculiar local plants growing therein the more rare and uncommon are Cyperus gramineus miliaceus Ger. Millet-Cyperus-grasse mentioned in Essex Frequent by the river Tames-sides near Tamworth and elsewhere Cyperus longus inodorus sylvestris Ger. Gramen cyperoides altissimum foliis carina serratis P. Boccone Long-rooted bastard Cyperus In boggy places by the river Tame at Dorsthill near Tamworth Equisetum nudum Ger. junceum seu nudum Park foliis nudum non ramosum s junceum C. B. Naked Horse-tail or Shave-grass This species is more rare in England We found it in a moist ditch at Middleton towards Drayton It is brought over to us from beyond Sea and employ'd by artificers for polishing of vessels handles of tools and other utensils it is so hard that it will touch iron it self I am informed by my honoured Friend Mr. John Awbrey that it is to be found in a rivulet near Broad-stitch Abbey in Wiltshire plentifully That sort which grows common with us is softer and will not shave or polish wood much less iron Juncus laevis minor panicula glomerata nigricante call'd by those of Montpellier with whom also it is found Juncus semine Lithospermi Black-headed Rush with Gromil-seed In the same places with the Cyperus longus inodorus Gramen
designs took him off r In the late Civil wars being made a garrison it was almost ruin'd so that he left his project unfinish'd 22 And the old Castle defac'd The family of these Corbets is ancient and of great repute in this Shire and held large estates by fealty of Roger de Montgomery Earl of Shrewsbury about the coming in of the Normans viz. Roger Corbet the son held Huelebec Hundeslit Actun Fernleg c. Robert Corbet the son held lands in Ulestanston Corbet pranomen Rotlinghop Branten Udecot 23 And in later ages this family far and fairly propagated receiv'd encrease both of revenue and great alliance by the marriage of an heir of Hopton More to the south lies Arcoll Arcoll a seat of the Newports 24 Knights of great worship descended from the Barons Grey of Codnor and the Lords of Mothwy Knights and in its neighbourhood is Hagmond-Abbey Hagmond-Abbey which was well endow'd if not founded by the Fitz-Alanes Not much lower is pleasantly situated upon the Severn the Metropolis of this County risen out of the ruins of old Uriconium which we call Shrewsbury Shrewsbury and now a-days more softly and smoothly Shrowsbury Our Ancestors call'd it Scrobbes-byrig because the hill it stands on was well wooded In which sense the Greeks nam'd their Bessa and the Britains this city Penguerne that is the brow of Alders where likewise was a noble Palace so nam'd but how it comes to be call'd in Welsh Ymwithig by the Normans Scropesbery Sloppesbury and Salop and in Latin Salopia I know not unless they be deriv'd from the old word Scrobbes-berig differently wrested Yet some Criticks in the Welsh tongue imagine 't was call'd Ymwithig as much as Placentia from the Welsh Mwithau and that their Bards gave it that name because their Princes of Wales delighted most in this place It is situated upon a hill the earth of which is of a red-dish colour the Severn is here passable by two fair bridges and embracing it almost round makes it a Peninsula as Leland our Poet and Antiquary describes it Edita Pinguerni late fastigia splendent Urbs sita lunato veluti mediamnis in orbe Colle tumet modico duplici quoque ponte superbit Accipiens patriâ sibi linguâ nomen ab alnis Far off it's lofty walls proud Shrewsb'ry shows Which stately Severn 's crystal arms enclose Here two fair bridges awe the subject stream And Alder-trees bestow'd the ancient name 'T is both naturally strong and well-fortified by art for Roger de Montgomery who had it given him by the Conquerour built a Castle upon a rising rock i in the northern parts of this town after he had pull'd down about 50 houses whose son Robert when he revolted from King Hen. 1. enclos'd it with walls on that side where the Severn does not defend it k which were never assaulted that I know of in any war but that of the Barons against King John When the Normans first settl'd here 't was a well-built city and well frequented for as it appears by Domesday-book 25 In King Edward the Confessor's time it paid Gelt according to an hundred Hides In the Conquerour's time it paid yearly seven pounds c. it was tax'd 7 l. 16 s. to the King yearly There were reckon'd 252 Citizens 12 of whom were bound to keep guard when the Kings of England came hither and as many to attend him whenever he hunted which I believe was first occasion'd by one Edrick Sueona a Mercian Duke but a profligate villain who ſ An. Christi 1006. Flor. Wigorn. not long before had way-lay'd Prince Alfhelm and slain him as he was hunting At which time as appears by the same book there was t There are not now the least remains of any such custom a custom in this city That what way soever a woman marry'd if a widow she should pay to the King 20 shillings but if a virgin 10 shillings in what manner soever she took the husband But to return this Earl Roger not only fortify'd it but improv'd it much by other useful buildings both publick and private and founded a beautiful Monastery dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul and endow'd it liberally as he did likewise u The very marks of this Church are quite gone unless it was mistaken for St. Giles's yet standing in the same parish tho' ruinous and which some alledge was the ancient Parish-Church the Church-yard of it being yet their common place of burial St. Gregory's Church upon these conditions so a private history of this Monastery expresses it That when the Prebendaries thereof should die the Prebends should go to the Monks From which arose no small contest for the Prebendaries sons su'd the Monks to succeed their fathers in those Prebends and at that time Prebendaries and Clerks in England were not oblig'd to celibacy but it was customary for Ecclesiastical Benefices to descend hereditarily to the next of blood Prebends inheritable But this controversie was settled in Henry 1.'s reign That heirs should not inherit Ecclesiastical Benefices about which time laws were enacted obliging Clergy-men to celibacy Afterwards other Churches were here built and to pass by the Covents of Dominican Franciscan and Augustine Friers sounded by the Charltons Jenevills and Staffords there were two Collegiate Churches w Besides these there are two other parish-Parish-Churches within the walls St. Alkman's and St. Julian's erected St. Chads with a Dean and ten Prebendaries and St. Mary's with a Dean and nine minor Prebends At this day 't is a fine City well inhabited of good commerce and by the industry of the Citizens their Cloath-manufacture and their trade with the Welsh very rich for hither all Welsh commodities are brought as to the common Mart of both Nations It 's Inhabitants art partly English partly Welsh they use both Languages and this must be mention'd in their praise that they have set up 25 A School wherein were more Scholars in number when I first saw it than any School in England one of the largest Schools in England for the education of youth for which Thomas Aston the first Head-School-master a man of great worth and integrity provided by his own industry a competent Salary l 26 It shall not now I hope be impertinent to note that when divers of the Nobility conspir'd against King Henry 4. with a purpose to advance Edmund Mortimer Earl of March to the Crown as the undoubtful and right heir whose father King Richard the second had also declar'd heir-apparent and Sir Henry Percy call'd Hot-Spur then addressed himself to give the assault to Shrewsbury c. At this city when Henry Percy the younger rebell'd against Henry the fourth and was resolutely bent to attack its walls which that King had made exceeding strong by a turn of Fortune he was prevented and his measures broken in a trice for the King himself was suddenly at his
by the Britains Bonchor and Banchor by the Saxons Bancorna-byrig and Banchor B●●●or This place among many very good men is said to have produc'd that greatest and worst of hereticks Pelagius who perverting the nature of God's grace so long infested the Western Church with his pernicious Doctrine Hence in Prosper Aquitanus he is call'd Coluber Britannus Pestifero vomuit Coluber sermone Britannus The British Adder vented from his poys'nous tongue Which I mention for no other reason than that it is the interest of all mankind to have notice of such infections In the Monastery Bede says there were so many Monks that when they were divided into seven parts having each their distinct ruler appointed them every one of these particular Societies consisted of three hundred men at least who all liv'd by the labour of their own hands b If it be the best way of judging what arts the Romans taught the Britains from the Latin terms still retain'd in the Welsh tongue this inference of our Author seems to be confirm'd by that Languages affording no other name for Cheese then Caws whi●h looks like a manifest corruption of Cas●us But the same may be noted of all the other modern Languages of Europe Edilfred King of the Northumbrians slew twelve hundred of them b So say all our ancient Historians Only the publisher of King Aelfred's Life in his notes upon the Preface p. 7. has contracted the number into ●00 and contrary to the common cry of Antiquity unless the Ulster-Annals be on his side makes the battel to be fought in the year 613. which perhaps was after the death of Augustine the Monk for praying for the Britains their fellow Ch●istians against the Saxon-Infidels And here to digress a little upon the mention of these Monks M●●●● life the original of a Monastick life in the world proceeded from the rigorous and fiery persecutions of the Christian religion to avoid which good men withdrew themselves and retir'd into the Deserts of Egypt to the end they might safely and freely exercise their profession and not with a design to involve themselves in misery rather than be made miserable by others as the Heathens pretended Ru●●●● C●aud●● Itinera●● There they dispersed themselves among the mountains and woods living first solitarily in Caves and Cells from whence they were call'd by the Greeks Monachi afterwards they began as nature it self prompted them to live sociably together finding that more agreeable and better than like wild beasts to sculk up and down in Deserts Then their whole business was to pray and to supply their own wants with their own labour giving the over-plus to the poor and tying themselves by Vows to Poverty Obedience and Chastity Athanasius first introduced this Monastick way of living in the Western Church Whereunto S. Austin in Africk S. Martin in France and Congell as 't is said in Britain and Ireland very much contributed by settling it among the Clergy Upon which it is incredible how they grew and spread abroad in the world how many great Religious houses were prepared to entertain them which from their way of living in common were call'd Coenobia as they were also call'd Monasteries because they still retain'd a shew of a solitary life and there was nothing esteem'd in those times so strictly religious For they were not only serviceable to themselves but beneficial to all mankind both by their prayers and intercessions with God and also by their good example their learning labour and industry But as the times corrupted so this holy zeal of theirs began to cool Rebus cessere secundis as the Poet says Prosperity debauch'd them But now to return From hence-forward this Monastery went to decay for William of Malmsbury who liv'd not long after the Norman Conquest 〈◊〉 men●●'d by 〈…〉 was in 〈◊〉 says There remained here so many signs of Antiquity so many ruinous Churches so many turns and passages through gates such heaps of rubbish as were hardly elsewhere to be met with But now there is not the least appearance of a City or Monastery the names only of two gates remain Port-Hoghan and Port Cleis which stand at a mile's distance between them Roman coyns have been often found 〈◊〉 be●●●●●●re But here I must note that Bonium is not reckon'd within this County but in Flintshire a part of which is in a manner sever'd from the rest and lyes here between Cheshire and Shropshire b After the river Dee has enter'd this County it runs by the town Malpas or Malo-passus 〈◊〉 situate upon a high hill not far from it which had formerly a castle and from the ill narrow steep rugged way to it was call'd in Latin Mala platea or Ill-street for the same reason by the Normans Mal-pas and by the English in the same sense Depen-bache Hugh Earl of Chester gave the Barony of this place to Robert Fitz-Hugh ●●lo ●●day ●●us 〈…〉 In the reign of Henry the second William Patrick the son of William Patrick held the same of which race was Robert Patrick who forfeited it by outlawry Some years after David of Malpas by a Writ of Recognisance got a moiety of that town which then belong'd to Gilbert Clerk but a great part of the Barony descended afterwards to those Suttons that are Barons of Dudley and a parcel thereof likewise fell to Urian de S. Petro 〈◊〉 to 〈◊〉 commonly Sampier And from Philip a younger son of David of Malpas is descended that famous and knightly family of the Egertons 〈◊〉 who derived this name from their place of habitation as divers of this family have done viz. Cotgrave Overton Codington and Golborn But before I leave this place I must beg leave in this serious and grave subject to recite one pleasant story concerning the name of it out of Giraldus Cambrensis 〈◊〉 lib. 2. ●3 It happen'd says he in our times that a certain Jew travelling towards Shrewsbury with the Arch-Deacon of this place whose name was Peché that is Sin and the Dean who was call'd Devil and hearing the Arch-Deacon say that his Archdeaconry began at a place call'd Ill-street and reach'd as far as Malpas towards Chester the Jew knowing both their names told them very pleasantly be found it would be a miracle if ever he got safe out of this County and his reason was because Sin was the Arch-Deacon and the Devil was the Dean and moreover because the entry into the Arch-deaconry was Ill-street and the going forth again Malpas ●●ch From hence Dee is carried down by Shoclach where was formerly a castle then by Alford belonging formerly to the Arderns next by Pouleford where in Henry the third's reign 1 Sir Ralph Ralph de Ormesby had his castle lastly by Eaton the seat of that famous family the Grosvenours ●●enour i.e. grandis venator great hunter whose posterity now go corruptly by the name of Gravenor A little more upward upon
of Archenfeld whenever the Army marches forward against the Enemy by custom make the Avauntward and in the return homeward the Rereward As the Munow runs along the lower p●rt of this County The river Wye so the Wye with a winding course cuts it in the middle upon which in the Western bounds stands Clifford-castle Cliff●rd-Castle which William Fitz-Osborn Earl of Hereford built upon his own Waste these are the very words of Domesday-book but Ralph de Todeny held it Clivus fortis It is suppos'd that it came afterwards to Walter the son of Richard Punt a Norman for his sirname was de Clifford and from him the illustrious family of the Cliffords Earls of Cumberland are originally descended But in King Edward the first 's time Inq. 26 E. 1. John Giffard held it who married the heir of Walter Clifford Thence the Wye with a crooked and winding stream rolls by Whitney which has given name to a noted family next by Bradwardin-Castle that gave both original and name to the famous Thomas Bradwardin Archbishop of Canterbury who for the great variety of his studies and his admirable proficiency in the most abstruse and hidden parts of learning was in that age honour'd with the title of * The Profound D●ctor Doctor profundus At length it comes to Hereford the Metropolis of this County b How far that little Tract Arcenfeld reach'd I know not but the affinity between these names Ereinuc Arcenfeld the town Ariconium mention'd by Antonine in these parts and Hareford or Hereford Hereford the present Metropolis of this Shire have by little and little induc'd me to this opinion that they are every one deriv'd from Ariconium And yet I do not believe that Ariconium and Hereford were the same but as Basle in Germany has challeng'd the name of Augusta Rauracorum and Baldach in Assyria that of Babylon because as this had its original from the ruins of Babylon so that had its birth from those of Augusta so our Hariford for thus the common people call it had its name and beginning from its neighbour Ariconium as I am of opinion which at this day has no clear marks of a town having been destroyed as 't is reported by an Earthquake Only it still retains a slight shadow of the name being call'd Kenchester Kenchester and shews some ruins of old Walls call'd Kenchester Walls about which are often dug up stones of inlaid Checquer-work British bricks Roman coyns c. c But Hareford her daughter which carries more express remains of the name d stands eastward scarce three Italian miles from it amongst meadows extremely pleasant and corn-fields very fruitful encompass'd almost round about with rivers by an anonymous one on the north and west sides on the south by the Wye which hastens hither out of Wales It is supposed to have first sprung up when the Saxon Heptarchy was in its glory founded as some write by Edward the ●lder and indeed there is no mention of it more ancient For the Britains before the name of Hereford was known called the place Trefawith from Beech-trees and Henford from an Old way and the Saxons themselves Fern-leg of Fern. It owes if I mistake not it 's greatest encrease and growth to Religion and the Martyrdom of Ethelbert a King of the East-Angles who whilst in person he courted the daughter of Offa King of the Mercians was villanously way-laid and murmurder'd by Quendreda Offa's wife who longed more for the Kingdom of the East-Angles than to have her daughter honestly and honourably married He was hereupon registred in the Catalogue of Martyrs S 〈◊〉 M●●●● and had a Church here built and dedicated to him by Milfrid a petty King of the Country which being soon after adorn'd with a Bishop's See grew very rich first by the liberality of the Mercian afterwards of the West-Saxon Kings For they at length were possessed of this City as may be gathered from William of Malmesbury where he writes that Athelstan the West-Saxon forc'd the Princes of Wales in this City to comply with such hard conditions as to pay him tribute besides hounds and hawks 20 pound weight of gold and 300 pound of silver every year This city as far as I have observ'd by reading had never any misfortune unless it were in the year of our Lord 1055. when Gryffin Prince of South-Wales and Algar an Englishman rebelling against Edward the Confessor after they had routed Earl Ralph sacked the City destroy'd the Cathedral and carried away captive Leofgar the Bishop But Harold having soon quieted their bold rebellion fortified it as Floriacensis informs us with a broad and high Rampire Upon this account it is that Malmesbury ‖ Lib ● P●●●● writes thus Hereford is no great City and yet by the high and formidable ruins of its steep and broken Bulwarks it shews it has been some great thing and as it appears by Domesday book there were in all but 103 men within and without the walls The Normans afterwards built a very large and strong Castle on the east-side of the Cathedral along the river Wye the work as some report of Earl Miles but now ruin'd by time and falling to decay e Afterwards they wall'd the City about In the reign of King Hen. 1. was founded by Bishop Reinelm that beautiful Church now to be seen which his successors enlarged by adding to it a neat College and fine houses for the Prebendaries For besides the Bishop who has 302 Churches in his Diocese there are in this Church a Dean two Archdeacons a Praecentor a Chancellour a Treasurer and 28 Prebendaries I saw in it scarce any monuments besides those of the Bishops and I have heard that Thomas Cantlow the Bishop a person nobly born had here a stately and magnificent tomb who being canonized for his holiness wanted little of out-shining the Royal Martyr Ethelbert so great was the opinion of his piety and devotion f According to Geographers the Longitude of this City is 20 degrees 24 minutes Lat. 52 degrees 6 min. g The Wye has scarce gone three miles from this City when he intercepts the river Lug which having run with a rapid stream down from Radnor-Hills with a still course glides through this Province from the north-west to the south-east h At the first entrance it has a distant prospect of Brampton Brian a Castle which a famous family hence sirnam'd de Brampton Brampton Brian whose christian name was usually Brian held by a continual succession to the time of King Edward 1. then by female-heirs it came to R. Harley But it has a nearer view of Wigmore Wigmore in Saxon b Wigingamere in the Saxon Annals Wynginga-mere repair'd in ancient times by King Edw. the elder afterwards fortify'd with a Castle by William Earl of Hereford in the wast of a ground for so it is in Domesday book which was called Marestun in the tenure of Randulph de Mortimer from
title of Aber Gavenni upon which the majority of voices gave it the heir-male And when he had again proposed Whether the title of Baron Le Despenser Baroness le Despenser should be conferr'd on the female and her heirs they unanimously agreed to it to which his Majesty gave his Royal Assent And Edward Nevil was soon after summon'd to Parliament by the King 's Writ under the title of Baron of Aber-Gavenni And being according to the usual ceremony introduc'd in his Parliament-Robe between two Barons he was placed above the Baron de Audeley At the same time also the King's Patent was read before the Peers whereby his Majesty restored rais'd preferred c. Mary Fane to the state degree title stile name honour and dignity of Baroness le Despenser Baroness le Despenser and that her heirs successively should be Barens le Despenser c. But the question of precedency being proposed the Peers referr'd the decision thereof to the Commissioners for the office of Earl Marshal of England who sign●d their Verdict for the Barony of le Despenser This was read before the Peers and by their order register'd in the Parliament Diary out of which I have taken this account in short What ought not to be omitted is that John Hastings held this Castle by homage ward and marriage 6 Edw. 2. When it happens as we read in the Inquisition and if there should chance any war between the King of England and Prince of Wales he ought to defend the Country of Over-went at his own charges to the utmost of his power for the good of himself the King and Kingdom The second town call'd by Antoninus Burrium Burrium who places it 12 miles from Gobannium is seated where the river Byrdhin falls into Usk. 'T is call'd now in British by a transposition of letters Brynbiga for Burenbegi and also Kaer-ŵysk by Giraldus Castrum Oskae and in English Usk. Usk. It shews now only the ruins of a large strong Castle pleasantly seated between the river Usk and Oilwy a small brook which takes its course from the east by Ragland a stately castle-like house of the Earl of Worcester's and passes under it The third City call'd by Antoninus Isca Isca and Legio secunda seated on the other side of the river Usk and distant as he observes exactly 12 Italian miles from Burrium is c●ll'd by the Britains Kaer Lheion and Kaer Lheion ar ŵysk Kaer Lheion ar Wysk which signifies the City of the Legion on the river Usk from the Legio Secunda Augusta called also Britannica secunda This Legion instituted by Augustus and translated out of Germany into Britain by Claudius under the conduct of Vespasian to whom upon his aspiring to the Empire it prov'd serviceable and also secur'd him the British Legions was placed here at length by Julius Frontinus as seems probable in garrison against the Silures How great a City this Isca was at that time our Giraldus informs us in his Itinerary of Wales A very ancient city this was saith he and enjoy'd honourable privileges elegantly built by the Romans with * The c●●cuit ●f 〈◊〉 walls a●● 3 miles Enderoy brick walls There are yet remaining many footsteps of its ancient splendour stately palaces which formerly with their gilded Tiles emulated the Roman grandeur for that it was at first built by the Roman nobility and adorn'd with sumptuous edifices an exceeding high tower remarkable hot † An. 16●● hot ba●●s were d●●●ver'd 〈◊〉 S. Jul●a● the br●●● equilate●●ly squ●●● about 〈◊〉 inch t●● like th●● at S. A●●●● Mr. A●●● baths ruins of ancient temples theatrical places encompass'd with stately walls which are partly yet standing Subterraneous edifices are frequently met with not only within the walls but also in the suburbs aqueducts vaults and which is well worth our observation Hypocausts or stoves contriv'd with admirable artifice conveying heat insensibly through some very narrow vents on the sides Two very eminent and next to St. Alban and Amphibalus the chief Protomartyrs of Britannia major lye entombed here where they were crown'd with martyrdom viz. Julius and Aaron who had also Churches dedicated to them in this City For in ancient times there were three noble Churches here One of Julius the Martyr grac'd with a Quire of Nuns devoted to God's service another dedicated to St. Aaron his companion ennobled with an excellent order of Canons and the third honour'd with the Metropolitan See of Wales Amphibalus also teacher of St. Alban who sincerely instructed him in the Faith was born here This City is excellently well seated on the navigable river Usk and beautified with meadows and woods Here the Roman Embassadors received their audience at the illustrious court of that great King Arthur And here also the Archbishop Dubricius resign'd that honour to David of Menevia by translating the Archiepiscopal See from this City thither Thus far Giraldus But in confirmation of the antiquity of this place I have taken care to add some ancient Inscriptions lately dug up there and communicated to me by the right reverend Father in God Francis Godwin Lord Bishop of Landaff a lover of venerable antiquity and all other good literature In the year 1602. some labourers digging in a meadow adjoyning found on a checquer'd pavement a statue of a person in a short-truss'd habit with a Quiver and Arrows the head hands and feet broken off and also the fragment of an Altar with this Inscription of fair large characters about three inches long erected by Haterianus Lieutenant-General of Augustus and Propraetor of the Province of Cilicia 〈…〉 HATERIANVS LEG AVG PR PR PROVINC CILIC The next year was discover'd also this Inscription which shews the Statue before mention'd to have been of the Goddess Diana and that Titus Flavius Posthumius Varus perhaps of the fifth Cohort of the second Legion had repair'd her Temple a Id est Titus Flavius Postumius Varus quintae Cohortis Legionis Secundae Augustae Templum Dianae restituit T. FL. POSTVMIVS VARVS V. C. LEG TEMPL DIANAE RESTITVIT Also this votive Altar out of which the name of the Emperour * Geta seems to have been rased when he was deposed by his brother Antoninus Bassianus ●●e Phil. ●●ns 〈◊〉 1●5 and declared an enemy yet so as there are some shadows of the Letters still remaining b Id est Pro salute Augustorum nostrorum Severi Antonini Getae Caesarum Publius Saltienus Publii filius Maecia Thalamus ex hac gente aut tribu nempe Publ. Saltienus ortus est Praefectus Legionis secundae Augustae C. Vampeiano Luciliano Consulibus PRO SALVTE In printed Copies Claudius Pompeianus and Lollianus Avitus Coss An. Chr. 210. AVGG N. N. SEVERI ET ANTONINI ET GETAE CAES. P. SALTIENVS P. F. MAECIA THALAMVS HADRI PRAEF LEG II. AVG. C. VAMPEIANO ET LVCILIAN And this fragment of a very fair Altar the Inscription whereof might perhaps be thus supplied
IMP. M AURELIO ANTONINO AVC SEVER LVCII FILIO LEC. IIV VG P sic Together with these two fragments Centurio c This was lately in the School-wall at Kaêr Lheion but is now rased out † 7. VECILIANA d This is in the Garden-wall at Moin's Court but the first line VIII and this character 7. are not visible See Reines Syntag. Inscr pag. 977. VIII 7. VALER MAXSIMI f Here also about the time of the Saxon Conquest was an Academy of 200 Philosophers who being skill'd in Astronomy and other Sciences observ'd accurately the courses of the Stars as we are informed by Alexander Elsebiensis a very scarce Author out of whom much has been transcrib'd for my use by the learned Thomas James Tho. James of Oxford who may deservedly be stiled 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 as one that is wholly intent upon Books and Learning and is at present God prosper his endeavours out of a desire of promoting the publick good busily employ'd in searching the Libraries of England on a design that is like to be of singular use to the Commonwealth of Learning In the time of K. Henry 2. when Giraldus writ this City seems to have been a place of considerable strength For we find that Yrwith of Kaer Lheion a courageous Britain defended it a long time against the English forces till at last being over-power'd by the King he was dispossest of it But now a fair instance that Cities as well as Men have their vicissitude and fortune that is become an inconsiderable small town which once was of so great extent on each side the river that they affirm St. Gilian's the house of the honourable Sir William Herbert a person no less eminent for wit and judgment than noble extraction to have been in the city and in that place the Church of Julius the Martyr is said to have stood which is now about a mile out of the town From the ruins also of this City Newport Newport had its beginning seated a little lower at the fall of the river Usk. By Giraldus 't is call'd Novus Burgus It is a town of later foundation and of considerable note for a Castle and a convenient harbour where there was formerly some Military-way mention'd by Necham in these verses Intrat auget aquas Sabrini fluminis Osca Praeceps testis erit Julia Strata mihi Increas'd with Usk does Severn rise As Julia Strata testifies That this Julia Strata was a way we have no reason to question and if we may be free to conjecture it seems not absurd to suppose it took its name from Julius Frontinus who conquer'd the Silures Not far from this Newburgh saith Giraldus there glides a small stream call'd Nant Pènkarn passable but at some certain fords not so much for the depth of its water as the hollowness of the chanel and deepness of the mud It had formerly a ford call'd Rhŷd Penkarn now of a long time discontinued Henry 2. King of England having by chance pass'd this ford the Welsh who rely too much upon old prophecies were presently discouraged because their Oracle Merlinus Sylvester had foretold that whenever a strong Prince with a freckled face such as King Henry was should pass that Ford the British Forces should be vanquish'd During the Saxon Heptarchy this County was subject to the Mountain-Welsh call'd by them Dun-settan Dun set who were yet under the government of the West-Saxons as appears by the ancient Laws At the first coming in of the Normans the Lords Marchers grievously plagued and annoy'd them especially the above-mention'd Hamelin Balun Hugh Lacy Walter and Gilbert de Clare 1 Miles of Glocester Robert Chandos Pain Fitz-John Richard Fitz-Punt and c. and Brien of Wallingford To whom the Kings having granted all they could acquire in these parts some of them reduced by degrees the upper part of this County which they call'd Over-Went and others the low lands call'd Nether-Went Parishes in this County 127. ADDITIONS to MONMOVTHSHIRE a MYnydh Kader mention'd by our Author is the name of many Mountains in Wales thus denominated as Kader Arthur Kader Verwin Kader Idris Kader Dhinmael Kader yr Ychen c. which the learned Dr. Davies supposes to have been so call'd not from their resemblance to a Kàdair or Chair but because they have been either fortified places or were look'd upon as naturally impregnable by such as first impos'd those names on them For the British Kader as well as the Irish word Kathair signifying anciently a Fort or Bulwark whence probably the modern word Kaer of the same signification might be corrupted b Lhan Lhan properly signifies a Yard or some small Inclosure as may be observ'd in compound words For we find a Vineyard call'd Gwin-lhan an Orchard Per-lhan a Hay-yard Yd-lhan a Church-yard Korph-lhan a Sheep-fold Kor-lhan c. However as Giraldus observes it denotes separately a Church or Chapel and is of common use in that sense throughout all Wales probably because such Yards or Inclosures might be places of Worship in the time of Heathenism or upon the first planting of Christianity when Churches were scarce c That this Jeffrey of Monmouth as well as most other Writers of the Monkish times abounds with Fables is not deny'd by such as contend for some authority to that History but that those Fables were of his own Invention seems too severe a censure of our Author's and scarce a just accusation since we find most or all of them in that British History he translated whereof an ancient copy may be seen in the Library of Jesus-College at Oxford which concludes to this effect Walter Arch-Deacon of Oxford composed this Book in Latin out of British Records which he afterwards thus render'd into modern British We find also many of the same Fables in Ninnius who writ his Eulogium Britanniae about three hundred years before this Galfridus Arturius compos'd the British History As to the regard due to that History in general the judicious Reader may consult Dr. Powel's Epistle De Britannica Historia rectè intelligenda and Dr. Davies's Preface to his British Lexicon and ballance them with the arguments and authority of those that wholly reject them Near Monmouth stands a noble House built by his Grace Henry Duke of Beaufort call'd Troy the residence of his eldest son Charles Marquiss of Worcester who is owner of it and of the Castle and Manour of Monmouth settled upon him with other large possessions in this County by the Duke his father e The English names of Went-set Wentse● c. and Wents land have their origin from the British word Gwent whereby almost all this Country and part of Glocestershire and Herefordshire were call'd till Wales was divided into Counties But it seems questionable whether that name Gwent be owing to the City Venta or whether the Romans might not call this City Venta Silurum as well as that of the Iceni and that other of the Belgae
Gaul were built either by Duke Medus or Prince Olanus or that whilst it was building Sus mediatim lanata a Sow half clad with wooll was dug up should I not seem to grasp at clouds and trifles And yet the Italians tell all these stories of their Mediolanum But seeing it is most evident that all these were founded by people who spoke the same language for we have shewn already that the Gauls and Britains used one common tongue it seems highly probable that they had their denomination from one and the same original Now our Mediolanum agrees in nothing with that of Italy but that each of them are seated in a Plain between two rivers and a learned Italian has from thence derived the name of his Mediolanum for that it is seated media inter lanas Lana 〈◊〉 it sign●●●● which he interprets betwixt Brooks or small Rivers e 4 But this may seem over-much of Mediolanum which I have sought here and about Alcester not far off This County has dignified no Earl with its name and title till very lately An. 1605. King James created at Greenwich Philip Herbert a younger son of Henry Earl of Penbroke by Mary Sydney at one and the same time Baron Herbert of Shurland and Earl of Montgomery Earls of Montgomery as a particular mark of his favour and for the great hopes he conceiv'd of his virtuous qualifications The Princes of Powis Princes of Powys descended from Roderic the Great † Fro● Bledhyn 〈◊〉 Kynvy● Powel 〈◊〉 Lords of Powys possess'd this County with some others in a continued series till the time of Edward the second For then Owen the son of Grufydh ap Givenŵynwyn the last Lord of Powys of British Extraction for the title of Prince was discontinued long before left only one daughter call'd Hawis D. Pow●● who was married to 5 Sir John John Charlton an English-man the King's Valect and he thereupon created Earl of Powys by King Edward the second His Arms as I have observed in several places were Or a Lion rampant Gules 6 Which he receiv'd from his wife's Progenitors He was succeeded in this title by four Barons until the male-line became extinct in Edward who by Aeleanora daughter and one of the heiresses of Thomas Holland Earl of Kent had two daughters viz. Jane married to Sir John Grey and Joyce the wife of John Lord Tiptoft from whom descended the Barons Dudley and others Dupli Norm 6 Hen. 5. This Sir John Grey by his own martial valour and the munificence of King Henry the fifth receiv'd the Earldom of Tanquervil Earl of Tanquer●●● in Normandy to him and his heirs male delivering one Bassinet at the Castle of Roan yearly on St. George's day His son was Henry Lord Powys in whose Family the title of Powys continued honourable to Edward Grey who not long before our time died without lawful issue f There are in this County 47 Parishes ADDITIONS to MONTGOMERYSHIRE a KEvn Kaer Kevn Kaer tho' it be here mention'd lyes in the County of Meirionydh concerning which a Gentleman who has liv'd there many years adds this farther account The main Fort which was on the highest part of the hill was built quadrangularly and encompass'd with a strong wall and a broad ditch of an oval form excepting that towards the valley 't was extended in a direct line On the out-side of the great ditch next the river Dyvi the foundations of many Houses have been discover'd and on a lower Mount there stood a small Fort which may be supposed to have been built of bricks for that they find there plenty of them All the out-walls were built of a rough hard stone which must have been carried thither by water there being none such nearer than Tâl y Ganeg distant from this place about seven miles From the Fort to the water-side there 's a broad hard way of pitch'd pebles and other stones continued in a straight line through meadows and marsh-grounds which may be about two hundred yards long and ten or twelve in breadth It is very evident this Fort hath been demolish'd before the building of the Church of Penalht for that we find in the walls of that Church several bricks mixt with the stones which were doubtless brought thither from this place Roman Coyns have been found here since Mr. Camden's time particularly some silver pieces of Augustus and Tiberius and near the main Fort in a field call'd Kâe Lhŵyn y Neuodh i.e. the Court or Palace-grove a small gold chain was found about four inches long and another time a Saphire-stone neatly cut Some other things of less note have been discover'd in the same place as a very large brass Cauldron used since as a brewing vessel at Kae'r Berlhan several pieces of lead and some very odd Glasses of a round form like hoops which were of several sizes some of them being about twenty inches in circumference others much less c. These hoop-glasses were curiously listed of divers colours some of which being broke 't was observ'd that variety proceeded from Sands or Powders of the same colours inclosed in several Cells within the Glass b Kaer Sŵs ●●er Sws was anciently a town of considerable note as may be concluded from the street there and the lanes about it I cannot learn that any Roman coyns have been discover'd at this place however that it was of Roman foundation seems highly probable for that there have been lately besides some neat hewn stones for building several bricks dug up there of that kind we frequently meet with in such ancient Cities as were possess'd by the Romans It has had a Castle and at least one Church and is said to have been heretofore the seat of the Lords of Arwystli but how far this town extended seems at present altogether uncertain It has had encampments about it at three several places viz. First on the North-side on a Mountain call'd Gwyn-vynydh Secondly Eastward near a place call'd Rhôs dhiarbed in the parish of Lhan Dhinam where besides entrenchments there 's a very large Mount or Barrow And thirdly at a place call'd Kevn Karnedh about a quarter of a mile on the West-side of the town Moreover about half a mile Southward from this Kevn Kardnedh on the top of a hill above Lhan Dhinam Church there 's a remarkable entrenchment call'd y Gaer Vechan which name may signifie either the lesser City or the lesser Fortification but is here doubtless put for the latter c The stones on the top of Corndon-hill ●●rndon-●●●● whence 〈◊〉 call'd are no other than four such rude heaps as are commonly known on the Mountains of Wales by the name of Karneu and Karnedheu whereof the Reader may find some general account in Radnorshire And to me it seems very probable seeing these stones can in no respect be compar'd to a Crown that the name of Corndon is derived from this word Karn the singular of
Karneu with the addition of the English termination don signifying Mountain or Hill as in Snowdon Huntingdon c. which conjecture is much confirm'd when we consider there are many hills in Wales denominated from such heaps of stones as Karn Lhechart in Glamorganshire Karnedh Dhavidh Karnedh Higin and Karnedh Lhewelyn in Caernarvonshire with many more in other Counties d Tralhwn from Tre'r Lhyn is an Etymology ●●ymology 〈◊〉 the word ●●alhwn agreeable enough with the situation of this place otherwise I should be apt to suspect the word Tralhwn might be the name of a place near this pool before the town was built and that the town afterwards took its name from it For in some parts of Wales 't is a common appellative for such soft places on the Roads or elsewhere as travellers may be apt to sink into as I have observ'd particularly in the Mountains of Glamorganshire And that a great deal of the ground near this place is such is also very well known As for the Etymon of the appellative Tralhwn I suppose it only an abbreviation of Traeth lyn i.e. a Quagmire e Concerning the situation of the old Mediolanum ●ed●ola●●m our Author seems to discourse with that judgment and modesty as becomes the character he justly bears in the world and since his time I cannot learn that any Roman Monuments have been discover'd at either of the places he mentions that might remove his scruples and fully determine the position of that City His arguments for the agreeableness of the names of Mediolanum and Mylhin though he writes it Methlin are so valid that I know not what can be objected to them However it seems observable that we do not find it was customary among the Britains to prefix the word Lhan i.e. Church to the name of Roman Cities but if any word was prefixt 't was generally Kaer i.e. a Fort or Fence as Caer Lheion Kaer Went Kaer Vyrdhin c. And tho' we should allow the invalidity of this objection and suppose the word Lhan might be introduced in latter times yet considering that a learned and inquisitive Gentleman of this Town who amongst his other studies has always had a particular regard to the Antiquities of his Country has not in the space of forty years met with any Coyns here or other tokens of a place inhabited by the Romans nor yet discover'd the least signs that this town was anciently of any considerable note I think we cannot safely barely on account of its name and vicinity to the situation requir'd conclude it the old Mediolanum Therefore it seems convenient to have recourse to the situation assign'd this City by Dr. Powel before our Author writ his Britannia who in his learned Annotations on Giraldus's Itinerary * ‖ L 2. c. 4. assures us 't was not only the opinion of some Antiquaries that the ancient Mediolanum was seated where the village of Meivod stands at present but also that the same village and places adjoyning afforded in his time several such remarkable Monuments as made it evident there had been formerly a considerable town at that place This Meivod is seated about a mile below Mathraval on the North-side of the river Myrnwy and three miles Southward of Lhan Vylhin at the situation our Author requires At present there remains only a Church and a small village but several yet living have seen there the ruins of two other Churches I am inform'd that about a mile from the Church there 's a place call'd Erw'r Porth i.e. the Gate-acre which is supposed to have taken its name from one of the Gates of the old City and that in the grounds adjoyning to this village Cawsways Foundations of Buildings Floors and Harths are often discover'd by Labourers but whether any such Monuments as we may safely conclude Roman as Coyns Urns Inscriptions c. are found at this place I must leave to farther enquiry Meivod as Bishop Usher supposes is call'd by Nennius Cair Meguid and in other copies Cair Metguod but what the word Meguid or Metguod or yet Meivod or Mediolanum might signifie is hardly intelligible at present at leastwise I cannot discern that the modern British affords us any information concerning the origin of these names Mathraval mention'd here as formerly the seat of the Princes of Powys shews at present no remains of its ancient splendour there being only a small Farm-house where the Castle stood Lhan Vylhin is a market-town of considerable note first incorporated by Lhewelyn ap Grufydh Lord of Mechain and Mochnant in the time of Edward the second It 's govern'd by two Bailiffs chosen annually who besides other Privileges granted to the town by King Charles the second bearing date March 28. Anno Reg. 25. were made Justices of the Peace within the Corporation during the time of their being Bailiffs f The Lordship of Powys was afterwards purchased by Sir Edward Herbert second son of William Earl of Penbroke to whom succeeded his eldest son Sir William Herbert created Lord Powys by King James the first whom his son Percy succeeded in the same title But his son William was first made Earl of Powys by King Charles the second and afterwards Marquiss of Powys by King James Since Philip Herbert second son of Henry Earl of Penbroke was created Earl of Montgomery Earls of Montgomery 3 Jac. 1. May 4 the same persons have enjoy'd the titles of Penbroke and Montgomery and at present both are joyn'd in the right honourable Thomas Baron Herbert of Cardiff c. MEIRIONYDHSHIRE BEyond the County of Montgomery lies Meirionydhshire which the Britains call Sîr Veirionydh in Latin Mervinia and by Giraldus Terra filiorum Conani It reaches to the crooked bay I mention'd and is wash'd by the main Ocean on the west-side with such violence that it may be thought to have carried off some part of it On the south for some miles 't is divided from Cardiganshire by the river Dyvy and on the north borders on Caernarvon and Denbighshire Mountains ex●eeding high This County hath such heaps of mountains that as Giraldus observes 't is the roughest and most unpleasant County of all Wales 1 And Wales For the hills are extraordinary high and yet very narrow and terminating in sharp peaks nor are they thin scatter'd but placed very close and so eaven in height that the shepherds frequently converse from the tops of them who yet in case they should wrangle and appoint a meeting can scarce come together from morning till night a Innumerable flocks of sheep graze on these mountains nor are they in any danger of Wolves Wolves in England destroy'd which are thought to have been then destroy'd throughout all England when King Edgar impos'd a yearly tribute of three hundred wolves skins on † No Prince of this name in Wales An leg Idwal See Derbyshire and Yorkshire Ludwal Prince of these Countries For as we find in William of Malmesbury When he had
slow and easie and hence that slow river Araris in France takes its name Araris in Gaul That part of the Country where the head of this river lyes is call'd Craven Craven possibly from the British word Crage a rock for what with stones steep rocks and rough ways this place is very wild and unsightly In the very middle of which and not far distant from the Are stands Skipton Skipton hid as it were with those st●ep precipices lying quite round just like * Lateo Latium in Italy which Varro thinks was really so call'd from its low situation under the Appennine and the Alps. The town is pretty handsome considering the manner of building in these mountainous parts and is secured by a very beautiful and strong Castle built by Robert de Rumeley by whose posterity it came to be the inheritance of the Earls of Albemarle But being afterwards escheated as the Lawyers term it to the Crown Edward the second gave it with other large possessions hereabouts in exchange to Robert de Clifford ancestor to the Earls of Cumberland for some lands of his in the Marches of Wales q The Are having pass'd Craven is carried in a much larger chanel with pleasant fields on both sides by Kigheley from which the famous family of Kigheley Kigheley derive their name One of whom call'd h Sir Henry Kigheley was there interr'd but the date of his death is not legible Henry Kigheley procured from Edward the first for his manour here the privilege of a Market and Fair Libera Warrenn and a free Warren so that none might enter into those grounds to chase there or with design to catch any thing pertaining to the said Warren without the permission and leave of the said Henry and his Successors Which was a very considerable favour in those days and I the rather take notice of it because it teaches us the nature and meaning of a Free-Warren The male-issue in the right line of this family ended in Henry Kigheley of Inskip within the memory of this age the daughters and heiresses were married one to William Cavendish at this time Baron Cavendish of Hardwick the other to Thomas Worseley of Boothes From hence the river Are glides on by Kirkstall a famous Monastery founded about the year 1147. by Henry Lacy. And thence by Leedes ●●●●ds in Saxon Loydes which was made a royal village when Cambodunum was burnt down by the enemy now enriched by the woollen manufacture Here Oswy the Northumbrian routed Penda the Mercian to the great advantage says Bede of both people for it both secured his own nation from the inroads of the Pagans and was the occasion of converting the Mercians to the Christian Religion The very spot where this engagement was goes by the name of Winwidfield Winwidfield in our Historians I suppose deriv'd from the victory it self as when Quintilius Varus and his Legions were cut off in Westphalia the place of Action was called in High Dutch Winfield the field of Victory as the most learned and my most worthy friend Abraham Ortelius has well observed r The Country for some little way about it was formerly called by the old word h That is Ulmarium or Ulmetum a grove of Elms. Evasit autem ignem sc qui villam Regiam ad Donafeld penitus absu●psit Altare quia lapideum erat servatur adhuc in Monasterio Reverendissimi Abbatis Presbyteri Thrythwulfi quod in Sylva Elmete est Bede Eccl. Hist l. 2. c. 14. 'T is possible this Monastery might be plac'd at Berwick in Elmet See afterwards under the title Berwick in ●imet Elmet Elmet which Edwin King of Northumberland son of Ella brought under his own dominion Ninius by the conquest of Cereticus a British King An. Dom. 620. There is Limestone Limestone plentifully found he●e they burn it at Brotherton and Knottingley and at certain seasons convey it in great quantities for sale to Wakefield Sandall and Standbridge from thence it is sold into the western parts of this County which are naturally cold and mountainous and herewith they manure and improve the soil But leaving these things to the husbandmen let us return s The Calder above-mention'd is at last received by the Are near the union of them stands the little village Castleford Castleford but called by Marianus Casterford who tells us that the Citizens of York slew many of Etheldred's army pursuing them in a disorderly flight when he infested this Country for their treachery and breach of Leagues Yet the older name of this place is that in Antoninus where 't is called Legeolium Legeolium and Lagetium which among other remarkable and express remains of antiquity is confirmed by those great numbers of Coins called by the common people Sarasins-heads dug up here in Beanfeild a place near the Church and so called from the beans that grow there Also by the distance of it from Danum and Eboracum on each side not to mention its situation by a Roman way nor that Hoveden expresly calls it a City t The river Are now enlarged by the confluence of the Calder leaves Brotherton B●otherton on the l●ft where * His second wife Margaret Queen to King Edw. 1. took up as she was hunting and was brought to bed of her son i He was born June 1. An. Dom. 1300. having his Christian name from S. Thomas of Canterbury whom his mother in the extremity of her pain pray'd ●o for ease It is reported that the Nurse design'd for him was a French-woman whose milk he could not endure but that an English-woman b●ing brought he lik'd hers well enough Thomas sirnamed de Brotherton from this place who was afterwards Earl of Norfolk and Marshal of England Somewhat below this town the river Are is joyned by the Dan and then runs into the river Ouse On the right there is found a yellow marle A yellow Marle of such virtue that the fields once manur'd with it prove fruitful many years after From hence the river is still carry'd on not much wide of Pontfract or broken bridge commonly called Pontfreit Pontfreit which arose out of the ruins of Legcolium In the Saxon times the name of this town was Kirkby which was changed by the Normans into Pontfract T. de Castleford because of a broken bridge there The story is that there was a wooden bridge over this river there when William Archbishop of York and sister's son to King Stephen returned from Rome and that he was welcom'd here with such a c owd of people that the bridge broke and they fell into the river S. Guilielmus Eboracensis but the Archbishop wept and prayed so fervently that not one of them was lost u This town is sweetly situated and is remarkable for producing Liquorish and Skirworts in great plenty the buildings are neat and secured by a castle which is very stately
The Church of York was by the Princes of that time endow'd with many large possessions especially by Ulphus the son ●f Toraldus which I the rather note from an old b●ok that a strange way of endowing heretofore may be took notice of This Ulphus govern'd in the west parts of Deira and by reason of a difference like to happen between his eldest son and his youngest about the Lordships after his death he presently took this course to make them equal Without delay he went to York and taking the horn wherein he was wont to drink with him he fill'd it with wine and kneeling upon his knees before the Altar bestow'd upon God and the blessed S. Peter Prince of the Apostles all his Lands and Tenements This horn was kept there to the last age as I have been informed It would seem to reflect upon the Clergy if I should relate the emulations and scuffles which ambition has raised between the two Sees of York and Canterbury whilst with great expence of money but more of reputation they warmly contended for pre-eminence T. 〈◊〉 r This Controversie was determin'd in Arch-bishop Thoresby's time A. D. 1353. at the special solicitation of King Edward ● qui corpo●um animarum pericula considerans ac pacem quietem populi sui affectans dictos Archiepiscopos ad pacis concordiam invitavit Yet so as that the Arch-bishops of York might legally write themselves Primate of England Anglia Sacra par 1. p. 74. For as one relates it the See of York was equal in dignity tho' it was the younger and the poorer sister and this being raised to the same power that the See of Canterbury was and endowed with the same Apostolical privileges took it very heinously to be made subject by the decree of P. Alexander declaring that the Arch-bishoprick of York ought to yield to that of Canterbury and pay an obedience to her as Primate of all Britain in all her Constitutions relating to the Christian Religion It falls not within the compass of my design to treat of the Arch-bishops of this See many of whom have been men of great virtue and holiness 'T is enough for me to observe that from the year 625. when Paulinus the first Arch-bishop was consecrated there have succeeded in it threescore and five Arch-bishops The 〈◊〉 sixth A●●bish●p to the year 1606. in which D. Tobias Matthews Venerable for his virtue and piety for his learned eloquence and for his indefatigable industry in teaching was translated hither from the Bishoprick of Durham mm This City very much flourish'd for some time under the Saxon Government till the Danish storms from the North began to rush on and spoil'd its beauty again by great ruins and dismal slaughter Which Alcuin in his Epistle to Egelred King of the Northumbrians seems to have foretold For he says What can be the meaning of that shower of blood which in Lent we saw at York the Metropolis of the Kingdom near St. Peter's Church descending with great horrour from the roof of the North part of the House in a clear day May not one imagine that this forebodes destruction and blood among us from that quarter For in the following age when the Danes laid every thing they came at waste and desolate this City was destroy'd with continual sufferings In the year 867. the walls of it were so shaken by the many assaults made upon them that Osbright and Ella Kings of Northumberland as they pursued the Danes in these parts easily broke into the City and after a bloody conflict in the midst of it were both slain leaving the victory to the Danes who had retired hither Hence that of William of Malmesbury York ever most obnoxious to the fury of the northern nations hath sustained the barbarous assaults of the Danes and groaned under the miseries it hath suffered But as the same author informs us King Athelstan took it from the Danes and demolish'd that castle wherewith they had fortified it Nor in after-ages was it quite rid of those wars in that especially which was so fatal for the subversion of Cities But the Normans as they put an end to these miseries so they almost brought destruction to York For when the sons of Sueno the Dane arrived here with a fleet of two hundred and forty sail A●f●●● 〈◊〉 the 〈◊〉 of the 〈◊〉 Burle●● Treas●● of E●g● and landed hard by the Normans who kept garrison in two castles in the city fearing lest the houses in the suburbs might be serviceable to the enemy in filling up the trenches set them on fire which was so encreased and dispersed by the wind that it presently spread about the whole city and set it all on fire In this disorder and hurry the Danes took the town putting the Townsmen and the Normans to the sword with great slaughter yet sparing William Mallet and Gilbert Gant the principal men among them for a Decimation Deci●●●●on among the soldiers afterwards For every tenth prisoner of the Normans on whom the lot fell was executed Which so exasperated William the Conquerour that as if the citize●s had sided with the Danes he cut them all off and set the City again on fire and as Malmesbury says so spoiled all the adjacent territory that a fruitful Province was quite disabled and useless that the country for sixty miles together lay so much neglected that a stranger would have lamented at the sight of it considering that formerly here had been fine cities high towers and rich pastures and that no former inhabitant would so much as know it The ancient greatness of the place may appear from Domesday In the time of Edward the Confessor the City of York contained six Shires or Divisions besides the Shire of the Archbishop One was wasted for the castles in the five remaining Shires there were 1428 houses inhabited and in the Shire of the Archbishop two hundred houses inhabited After all these overthrows Necham sings thus of it Visito quam foelix Ebraucus condidit urbem Petro se debet Pontificalis apex Civibus haec toties viduata novisque repleta Diruta prospexit moenia saepe sua Quid manus hostilis queat est experta frequenter Sed quid nunc pacis otia longa fovent There happy Ebrauk's lofty towers appear Which owe their mitre to St. Peter's care How oft in dust the hapless town hath lain How oft it's walls hath chang'd how oft it's men How oft the rage of sword and flames hath mourn'd But now long peace and lasting joy 's return'd For in his days these troublesome times being followed with a long and happy peace this city began to revive and continued flourishing notwithstanding it was often marked out for destruction by our own Rebels and the Scotch Yet in King Stephen's time it was most sadly ruined again by a casual fire which burnt down the Cathedral St. Mary's Monastery and other Religious houses and also as 't is supposed that
Rhodes when the great Mahomet was worsted It is now in the hands of Mr. Ralph Thoresby of Leeds East from Knaresbrough stands Ribston-hall ●●●ston-●all the pleasant Seat of the Right Honourable Sir Henry Goodrick Baronet Ambassadour from King Charles the second to the King of Spain now Privy-Councellor and Lieutenant of the Ordnance of the Tower of London hh Another river call'd Ure must be our next direction carrying us to Rippon ●●ppon where in the Minster-yard is this modest Inscription for a two thousand pound Benefactor Hic jacet Zacharias Jepson cujus aetas fuit 49. perpaucos tantum annos vixit ii It brings us next to Burrowbridge ●●rrw●dge where the Pyramids call'd by the common people the Devil's Arrows are most remarkable That they are artificial we have the opinion of Mr. Camden and the Devil's Coits in Oxofrdshire confirm it which Dr. 〈◊〉 of ●f ●●th 〈◊〉 Plot affirms to be made of a small kind of stones cemented together whereof there are great numbers in the fields thereabout But whether our Author's conjecture of their being set up as Trophies by the Romans may be allow'd is not so certain A ●ct S●aff 〈◊〉 later Antiquary seems inclin'd to conclude them to be a British work supposing that they might be erected in memory of some battel fought there but is rather of opinion that they were British Deities agreeing with the Learned Dr. Stillingfleet and grounding upon the custom of the Phoenicians and Greeks Nations undoubtedly acquainted with Britain before the arrival of the Romans who set up unpolish'd stones instead of images to the honour of their Gods kk Hard by this is Aldburrow confirm'd to be the Is-urium Is urium of the Ancients from several Roman Coyns and chequer'd Pavements digg'd up there some of which are now in the Musaeum of the ingenious Mr. Thoresby But to be a little more particular upon the remains of Antiquity they meet with take the following account which is the substance of a Letter from Mr. Morris Minister of the place Here are some fragments of Aquiducts cut in great stones and cover'd with Roman tyle In the late Civil wars as they were digging a Cellar they met with a sort of Vault leading as 't is said to the river if of Roman work for it has not yet met with any one curious enough to search it it might probably be a Repository for the Dead The Coyns generally of brass but some few of silver are mostly of Constantine and Carausius tho' there are two of Maximian Dioclesian Valerian Severus Pertinax Aurelius and of other Emperours as also of Faustina and Julia. They meet with little Roman heads of brass and have formerly also found coyn'd pieces of gold with chains of the same metal but none of late About two years ago were found four signet polisht stones three whereof were Cornelians The first had a horse upon it and a stamp of Laurel shooting out five branches the second a Roman sitting with a sacrificing dish in one hand and resting his other on a spear the third a Roman if not Pallas with a spear in one hand wearing a helmet with a shield on the back or on the other arm and under that something like a quiver hanging to the knee the fourth of a purple colour has a Roman head like Severus or Antonine Several Pavements have been found about a foot under-ground and compass'd about with stones of about an inch square but within are little stones of a quarter that bigness wrought into knots and flowers after the Mosaick-fashion No Altars are met with but pieces of Urns and old Glass are common In the Vestry-wall of the Church is plac'd a figure of Pan or Silvanus in one rough stone nyched ll From hence the Ure or Ouse runs to York York in the Antiquities whereof our Author has been so particular that we have little to add This ancient and noble City might have had an agreeable light if Sir Thomas Widdrington a person accomplisht in all Arts as well as his own profession of the Laws after he had wrote an entire History of it had not upon some disgust prohibited the publication The original Manuscript is now in the possession of Thomas Fairfax of Menston Esq Near the Castle stands the shell of Clifford's Tower which was blown up the 24th of April 1684. In the year 1638. in a house near Bishop-hill was found this Altar which is now at the Duke of Buckingham's house in York I. O. M. DIS DEABVSQVE HOSPITALIBVS PE NATIBVSQ OB. CON SERVATAM SALVTEM SVAM SVORVMQ P. AEL MARCIAN VS PRAEF COH ARAM. SAC f. NCD mm Dr. Tobias Matthews was Archbishop of this place * Inscript of the Church of York whose wife Frances a prudent Matron daughter of Bishop Barlow a Confessor in Queen Mary's time was a great Benefactress to the Church bestowing upon it the Library of her husband which consisted of above 3000 Books She is memorable likewise for having a Bishop to her father an Archbishop Matthew Parker of Canterbury to her father-in-law four Bishops to her brethren and an Archbishop to her husband nn The Cathedral Church after it had been burnt down in K. Stephen's time by little and little reviv'd The Thoresby mention'd by our Author was a great benefactor to it and the 29th of July 1631. laid the first stone of the new Quire to which at 16 payments he gave so many hundred pounds besides many other less sums for particular uses towards c●●●ing on that work As he was Archbishop of 〈◊〉 so also was he Lord Chancellour of England and Cardinal Spelm. G● in Cancellarius which I the rather take notice of here because he is omitted by Onuphrius as the Inscription of his seal testifies S. Johis Sci P. ad vincula presbyteri Cardinalis The dimensions of this Cathedral were exactly taken by an ingenious Architect and are as follows   Feet Length beside the buttresses 524 ½ breadth of the east-end 105 breadth of the west-end 109 breadth of the Cross from north to south 222 breadth of the Chapter-house 058 ½ he●●ht of the Chapter-house to the Canopy 086 ½ height of the body of the Minster 099 height of the Lanthorn to the Vault 188 height to the top-leads 213 oo Southward from York is Nun-Apleton Nun-Apleton so call'd from a Nunnery founded there by the Ancestors of the Earls of Northumberland afterwards the seat of Thomas Lord Fairfax General of the Parliament-army who merits a memorial here upon account of the peculiar respect he had for Antiquities As an instance whereof he allow'd a considerable pension to that industrious Antiquary Mr. Dodsworth to collect those of this County which else had irrecoverably perish'd in the late wars For he had but just finish'd the transcript of the Charters and other Manuscripts then lying in St. Mary's tower in York before the same was blown up and all those sacred remains
mix'd with common dust * Fasti●●on pa●● p. 765. And when that garrison was surrender'd to the Parliament he took great care for the preservation of the publick Library and bequeathed to it many MSS. with the Collections aforesaid which of themselves † Ibid. p. 69● amounted to 122 Volumes at least pp Our next place upon the river is Selby part of which ancient and beautiful Church with half of the steeple fell down suddenly about 6 a clock on Sunday morning 30 March 1690. From hence our Author carries us to Escricke Escricke which gave the title of Baron to Sir Thomas Knivet He was Gentleman of the Privy-Chamber to King James 1. and the person intrusted to search the vaults under the Parliament-house where he discover'd the 36 barrels of gun-powder and the person who was to have fir'd the train qq Afterwards the Ouse passeth by Drax where the benefaction of Charles Read Esq a native of the place and Judge in Ireland ought not to be omitted He erected here a Hospital as also a School-house and endow'd them with 100 l. per an EAST-RIDING EAst-Riding East-Riding or the east part of Yorkshire a where the Parisi Parisi are seated by Ptolemy makes the second division of this County lying east of York The north and west sides of it are bounded by the winding course of the river Derwent the south by the aestuary of Humber and the north by the German Ocean That part of it towards the sea and the river Derwent is pretty fruitful but the middle is nothing but a heap of mountains called a Wold in Saxon signifies a large plain without woods Yorkeswold which signifies Yorkshire hills The river Derventio or as we call it Derwent rises near the shore and runs towards the west but then turns again towards the south and passes by Aiton and Malton which because they belong to the North-Riding of this County I shall reserve for their proper places As soon as the river has enter'd this quarter it runs near the remains of that old castle Montferrant Montferrant Historia Meauxensis which belonged formerly to the Fossards men of great honour and estates But William Fossard of this family being in ward to the King and committed to the guardianship of William le Grosse Earl of Albemarle enraged the Earl so by debauching his sister tho' he was then but very young that in revenge he demolished this castle and forced the noble young Gentleman to forsake his country Yet after the death of the Earl he recovered his estate and left an only daughter who was married to R. de Tornham by whom she had a daughter afterwards married to Peter de Malo-lacu whose posterity being enriched with this estate of the Fossards became very famous Barons b Not far from hence stands a place seated upon a bank of the river called Kirkham i.e. the place of the Church for here stood a College of Canons founded by Walter Espec a very great man whose daughter brought a vast estate by marriage to the family of the Rosses Next but somewhat lower upon the Derwent there stood a city of the same name which Antoninus calls Derventio Derventio and tells us it was seven miles distant from York The Notitia makes mention of a Captain over ‖ No●● Der●●●en●● the Company Derventienses under the General of Britain that lived here and in the time of the Saxons it seems to have been the Royal Village situated near the river Doreventio says Bede where Eumer that Assassin as the same Author has it pushed with his sword at Edwin King of Northumberland and had run him through if one of his retinue had not interpos'd and sav'd his master's life with the loss of his own Where this place is I could never have discover'd without the light I have received from that polite and accurate scholar Robert Marshall He shewed me that at the distance from York I mention'd there is a little town seated upon the Derwent called Auldby which signifies in Saxon the old habitation where some remains of antiquity are still extant and upon the top of the hill towards the river is to be seen the rubbish of an old castle so that this cannot but be the Derventio From hence the river flows through Stanford-bridge which from a battel fought there is also called Battle-bridge Ba●●●●-bridge c For here Harald Haardread the Norwegian who with a fleet of 200 sail had infested this Kingdom and from his landing at Richal had marched thus far with great outrage and devastation was encountred by King Harold of England who in a fair battel here slew him and a great part of his army and took so much gold among the spoil that twelve young men could hardly bear it upon their shoulders as we are told by Adam Bremensis This engagement was fought about nine days before the coming in of William the Conquerour at which time the dissolute luxury of the English seems to have foretold the destruction of this Kingdom b See the General part under the title Normans But of this we have spoke already THE EAST RIDING of YORKSHIRE by Robert Morden Cum patre Radulpho Babthorpe jacet ecce Radulphus Filius hoc duro marmore pressus humo Henrici sexti dapifer pater Armiger ejus Mors satis id docuit fidus uterque fuit The two Ralph Babthorps father and his son Together lye interr'd beneath this stone One Squire one Sew'r to our sixth Henry was Both dy'd i' th field both in their master's cause Now the Derwent with a larger stream glides on near Howden ●wden a market town remarkable not for it's neatness or resort but for giving name to the neighbouring territory which from it is called Howdenshire and not long since for having a pretty Collegiate Church of five Prebendaries to which a house of the Bishops of Durham is adjoyned who have a vast estate hereabouts Walter Skirlaw one of them who flourish'd about the year 1390. as we find in the book of Durham built a huge tall steeple to this Church that in case of a sudden inundation the inhabitants might save themselves in it Not far distant from hence is Metham ●●●m which gives a name and seat to the famous and ancient family of the Methams d The Ouse grown more spacious runs with a swift and violent stream into the Aestuary Abus ●tuary of ●s the name by which it is expressed in Ptolemy e but the Saxons 〈◊〉 and we at this day call it Humber 2 Whereof also the Country beyond it by a general name was call'd Northumberland and from it all that part of the country on the other side was in general termed Nordan humbria Both names seem to be derivatives from the British Aber which signifies the mouth of a river and was perhaps given to this by way of excellence because the Urus or Ouse with all those
but I should rather take it to be the Petrianae For that the Ala Petriana Petriana was quarter'd here is plain from the fragment of an old Inscription which one Vlpius Trajanus ‖ Emeritus a pensionary of the same Ala Petriana set up But take this and some others which I copy'd out here GADVNO VLP TRAI EM AL. PET MARTIVS * H●ply Faciendum procuravi● F P. C. ' D M. AICETVOS MATER VIXIT * Annot. A XXXXV ET LATTIO FIL-VIX A XII LIMISIVS CONIV ET FILIAE PIENTISSIMIS POSVIT D M FL MARTIO SEN IN * Possibly in Cohorte C CARVETIOR QVESTORIO VIXIT AN XXXXV MARTIOLA FILIA ET HERES PONEN * Du● CVRAVIT DM CROTILO GERMANVS VIX ANIS XXVI GRECA VIX ANIS IIII VINDICIANVS * Fratri filiae Titulum posuit FRA. ET FIL. TIT. PO. After Eden has receiv'd the Eimot n it hastens to the north along by little inconsiderable villages and Forts to the two Salkelds At Little Salkeld there is a circle of stones 77. in number each ten foot high and before these at the entrance is a single one by it self fifteen foot high This the common people call Long-Megg and the rest her daughters and within the circle are hh The heaps of stones in the middle of this monument are no part of it but have been gather'd off the plough'd-lands adjoyning and as in many other parts of the County have been thrown up here together in a waste corner of the field Both this and Rolrich-stones in Oxfordshire may seem to be monuments erected at the solemn Investiture of some Danish Kings and of the same kind as the Kongstolen in Denmark and Moresteen in Sweeden Whereof the Reader may see Discourses at large in Wormius's Mon. Dan. lib. 1. cap. 12. S. J. Steph. Not. ad Sax. Gram. p. 29. Messen Paraph. Theat Nobil Suec p. 108. and our Countryman Dr. Plot 's History of Oxfordshire p. 336 337 c. two heaps of stones under which they say there are dead bodies bury'd And indeed 't is probable enough that this has been a monument erected in memory of some victory From thence the Eden passes by Kirk-Oswald Kirk-Oswald dedicated to S. Oswald formerly the possession of that 11 Sir Hugh Hugh Morvil who with his Accomplices kill'd Thomas Archbishop of Canterbury in memory of which fact the sword he then us'd was preserv'd here for a long time then by Armanthwayte Armanthwayte the Castle of the Skeltons and Corby C●rby-Castle a Castle of the noble and ancient family of the Salkelds which was much enrich'd by marriage with the heir of Rosgil then by Wetherall Wethera●● formerly a little monastery belonging to the Abbey of S. Mary in York where one sees i These Caves are in a rock of difficult access two Rooms one within the other of about five or six yards square each They seem to have been cut out for some Hermits to lodge in being near the Abbey a sort of houses dug out of rock that seem to have been design'd * In p● gii 〈◊〉 Viro●i●● for an absconding place 12 In this dangerous Country next by Warwic which I take to be the old Virosidum where the sixth Cohort of the Nervii formerly kept garison along the Wall against the Picts and Scots In the last age there was built here a very strong stone-bridge at the expence of the Salkelds and Richmonds And so by Linstoc Linstoc a castle of the Bishops of Carlisle within the Barony of Crosby Crosby which Waldeve son of Earl Gospatrick and Lord of Allerdale gave to the Church of Carlisle The present name I fancy is contracted from Olenacum For that Olenacum Olenac●● where the Ala prima Herculea lay in garison against the Barbarians seems to have been along the Wall And now Eden ready to fall into the Aestuary receives two little rivers almost at the same place Peterill and Caude which from the south keep all along at an equall distance Upon the Peterill beside the Perrianae already spoken of is Greystock ●●eystock the Castle of a family which has been long famous deriving its original from one Ralph Fitz-Wolter Of whose posterity William de Greystock marry'd Mary daughter and coheir of Roger de Merley Lord of Morpath He had a son John who having no issue got leave of King Edward 1. to make over his estate to his 〈…〉 Cousin Ralph de Granthorpe son of William whose posterity for a long time flourish'd here in great honour 13 With the title of Lord Greystock But about the reign of Henry 7. that family ended and the estate came by marriage to the Barons of Dacre the heirs general of the last of whom were marry'd to 14 Philip Earl of Arundel and Lord William Howard two sons of Thomas Howard late Duke of Norfolk o Near the Caude besides the Copper-mines ●●pper-●●nes at Caudebeck is Highyate a Castle of the Richmonds p and a beautiful Castle of the Bishops of Carlisle call'd The Rose-Castle this seems to have been the old Congavata ●●ngavata where the second Coho●t of the Lergi were quarter'd for Congavata signifies in British a vale upon the Gavata now contracted into Cauda But I have not yet been able to mark out the express place where it was seated q Between the confluence of those rivers 〈◊〉 the ancient City Carlile has a delicate pleasant situation bounded on the north with Eden ●●en on the east with Peterill and on the west with Caude Also besides these natural fences it is arm'd with a strong stone wall a castle and a citadel 'T is of an oblong form from west to east upon the west is a pretty large castle which by the Arms appears to have been k It might be repair'd by Rich. 3. tho' 't is very improbable considering the affairs of his Reign but 't is certain it was built by Will 2. some hundred years before built by Rich. 3. Almost in the middle of the city stands the Cathedral Church the upper part whereof being newer is a curious piece of Workmanship l The Lower W. part is the parochial-Parochial-Church and as old as S. Cuthbert or Walter who came in with the Conquerour was a Commander in his Army rebuilt the City founded a Priory and turning Religious became himself the first Prior of it The Chancel was built by Contribution A. D. 1350 1 2 3 c. The Belfrey was rais'd and the Bells plac'd in it at the charge of William de Strickland Bishop A. D. 1401. but the lower is much more ancient On the east it is defended with a Citadel very strong and fortify'd with ●●griis ●●agna●●● several Orillons or Roundels built by K. Hen. 8. The Romans and Britains call'd this City Lugu-ballum ●●gu-●●●lum and Lugu-vallium or Lugu balia the Saxons as Bede witnesses Luel Ptolemy as some
King of England who also bestow'd Clavering in Essex upon his son Whereupon at the command of King Edward the first they took the sirname of Clavering Clavering leaving the old fashion of framing sirnames out of the Christian name of their Father for so anciently according to the several names of their Fathers men were call'd Robert * The Son Fitz-Roger Roger Fitz-John c. Part of this Inheritance fell by Fine and Covenant to the Nevils afterwards Earl of Westmoreland and another share of it to a daughter call'd Eve married to Th. Ufford from whose Posterity it afterwards descended hereditarily upon the Fienes Barons of Dacre But from the younger sons branch'd out the Barons of Evers the Evers of Axholme the Claverings of Calaly in this County and others In the Neighbourhood is Morwic Morwick which may also boast of its Lords whose Male-issue was extinct about the year 1258. The Inheritance was convey'd by daughters to the Lumleys Seymours Bulmers and Roscells Then the shore receives the river Alaunus Alaunus which having not yet lost the name whereby 't was known to Ptolemy is still briefly call'd Alne Alne On its banks are Twifford or Double-Ford where a Synod was held under King Egfrid w and z This is still the seat of the same Family William Collingwood Esquire the chief of his name being its present proprietor Eslington the seat of the Collingwoods men of renown in the wars as also Alan-wick Alnewick call'd by the Saxons Ealn-ƿic and now usually Anwick a Town famous for the victory obtain'd by the English wherein our brave Ancestors took William King of Scots and presented him a Prisoner to Henry the second 'T is defended with a goodly Castle which Malcolm the third King of Scotland had so straitned by siege that it was upon the very point of surrender when presently he was slain by a Souldier who stabb'd him with a Spear on the point whereof he pretended to deliver him the Keys of the Castle His son Edward rashly charging upon the Enemy to revenge his father's death was also mortally wounded and dy'd soon after This was formerly a Barony of the Vescies for Henry the second gave it to Eustachius Fitz-John Testa Navi●i father of William Vescie in Tenure of twelve Knights Services John Vescie returning from the Holy War first brought Carmelites Carme●●●● into England and built a Covent for them here at Holme a solitary place and not unlike to Mount Carmel in Syria x William the last of the Vescies Hist D●nesm made Anthony Bec Bishop of Durham Trustee of this Castle and the Demesn-lands belonging to it for the use of his natural son the only Child he left behind him But the Bishop basely betraying his trust alienated the Inheritance felling it for ready money to William Percie since whose time it has always been in the possession of the Percies From hence the shore after a great many Indentures passes by y Dunstaburge Dunstaburg a Castle belonging to the Dutchy of Lancaster which some have a Polyd. Virg. lib. 4. p. 80. mistaken for Bebban which stands further North and instead of Bebbanburg is now call'd Bamborrow Bambor●●● Our Country-man Bede speaking of this Castle 's being besieg'd and burn'd by Penda the Mercian says it had this name from Queen z Bebba Bebba but Florilegus or Matthew of Westminster tells us 't was built by Ida the first King of Northumberland who first fenc'd it with a wooden Empailure and afterwards with a Wall Take Roger Hoveden's description of it Bebba says he is a very strong City not exceeding large as containing about two or three acres of ground It has one hollow entrance into it which is admirably rais'd by steps On the top of a hill stands a fair Church and on the Western point is a Well curiously adorn'd and of sweet and clean water At present it is rather reckon'd a Castle than a City tho' of that extent that it rivals some Cities Nor was it look'd upon as any thing more than a Castle when King William Rufus built the Tower of Male-veisin Tower 〈◊〉 Male-v● over against it the better to engage the Rebel Mowbray who lurk'd here and at last stole off and fled A great part of its beauty was afterwards lost in the Civil Wars when Bressie the stout Norman who fought for the House of Lancaster dealt unmercifully with it Since that time it has been in a continual struggle with old Age and the Winds which latter has through its large windows drifted up an incredible quantity of Sea-sand in its several Bulwarks Near this is Emildon sometime the Barony of John le Viscont Viscoun● but Rametta the heir of the family sold it to Simon de Monfort Earl of Leicester aa In this Barony was born John Duns call'd Scotus Joh. Scot● Doct●r S●tiles 〈◊〉 A.D. 1●●● because descended from Scotish Parents who was educated in Merton-College in Oxford and became an admirable proficient in Logick and School-Divinity but so critically scrupulous that he darkned all religious Truths He wrote many things with that profound and wondrous subtlety tho' in an obscure and impolish'd stile that he won the name of Doctor Subtilis and had the new Sect of Scotists erected in his name bb He dy'd miserably Paul●● 〈◊〉 vius i● 〈◊〉 log D●●● being taken with an Apoplectick fit and too hastily buried for dead For Nature having too late wrought through the Distemper he vainly mourn'd for assistance till at last beating his head against the Tomb-stone he dash'd out his brains and so expir'd Whereupon a certain Italian wrote thus of him Quaecunque humani fuerant jurisque Sacrati In dubium veniunt cuncta vocante Scoto Quid quod in dubium illius sit vita vocata Morte illum simili ludificante strophâ Quum non ante virum vitâ jugulârit ademptâ Quàm vivus tumulo conditus ille foret What sacred Writings or prophane can show All Truths were Scotus call'd in doubt by you Your Fate was doubtful too Death boasts to be The first that chous'd you with a Fallacy Who lest your subtle Arts your life should save Before she struck secur'd you in the grave That he was born here in England I affirm upon the authority of his own Manuscript Works in the Library of Merton-College in Oxford which conclude thus Explicit Lectura Subtilis c. Here ends the Lecture of John Duns call'd Doctor Subtilis in the University b 'T was an usual thing in those days for the Oxford-Scholars to spend some time at Paris but our English-men as seldom then as they do now reap'd any great advantage by their French Education Hist Antiq. Oxon. Lib. I. an Ann. 1282. of Paris who was born in a certain Hamlet of the Parish of Emildun call'd Dunston in the County of Northumberland belonging to the House of the Scholars of Merton-Hall in
Trepidus rapid but most famous for as glorious a victory as ever the Scots obtained when Edward 2. King of England was put to flight and forc'd to save himself in a Boat and for the routing of as fine an Army as ever England sent out before that by the valiant conduct of King Robert Brus. Insomuch that for a year or two the English did not in the least disturb the Scots Ptolemy seems somewhere about Sterling to place his Alauna Alauna which was either upon Alon a little River that hath its influx here into the Forth or at Alway a seat of the Ereskins hereditary Sheriffs of all the County without the Borough f 'T is now an Earldom in the Family of the Alexanders But I have not yet read of any one honoured with the title of Earl of Sterling d Additions to the DAMNII a CLYDSDALE Cydsdale called also the Sheriffdom of Lanrick from the town of Lanrick where the Sheriff keeps his courts is bounded on the South-East with the Stewartry of Annandale on the South with the Sheriffdom of Dumfrise on the South-west with that of Aire on the North-west with that of Ranfrew on the North with that of Dumbarton on the North-east with that of Sterling on the East with that of Linlithgow a little to the South-east with that of Mid-Lothian 'T is in length about 40 miles in breadth where broadest some 24. and where narrowest 16 miles The countrey abounds with Coal Peets and Lime-stone but what turns to the greatest account are the Lead-mines belonging to Hopton not far from which after rains the country people find pieces of gold some of which are of a considerable bigness I suppose 't is the same place our Author has mentioned upon this account It is divided into two Wards the Overward and Netherward this hilly and full of heaths and fit for pasturage the other plain and proper for grain It is watered with the pleasant River of Clide which gives name to the shire it rises at Errick-hill and running through the whole County glideth by many pleasant seats of the nobility and gentry and several considerable towns till it fall into its own Firth at Dumbarton The great ornament of these parts is the Palace of Hamilton Hamilton the residence of the Dutchess of Hamilton * Theatrum Scotiae the Court whereof is on all sides adorned with very noble buildings It has a magnificent Avenue and a Frontispiece towards the East of excellent workmanship On one hand of the Avenue is a hedge on the other fair large gardens well furnished with fruit-trees and flowers The Park famous for its tall oaks is six or seven miles round and has the Brook Aven running through it Near the Palace is the Church the Vault whereof is the buryal-place of the Dukes of Hamilton Upon the East bank of Clyde stands Glasgow Glasgow † Ibid. in respect of largeness buildings trade and wealth the chief City in the Kingdom next Edinburgh The river carries vessels of small burthen up to the very tower but New-Glasgow which stands on the mouth of Clyde is a haven for vessels of the largest size Most part of the City stands on a plain and is almost four-square In the very middle of it where is the Tolbooth a very stately building of hewn-stone four principal streets crossing each other divide the city as it were into four equal parts In the higher part of it stands the Cathedral Church commonly called St. Mungo's consisting indeed of two Churches one whereof is over the other The Architecture of the pillars and towers is said to be very exact and curious Near the Church is the Archbishop's Castle fenc'd with a wall of hewn stone but it s greatest ornament is the College separated from the rest of the town by an exceeding high wall the precincts whereof are enlarged with some Acres of ground lately purchased and the buildings repaired and adorned by the care and prudent administration of the Principal the Learned Doctor Fall Roman-Highway Nor does this tract want some remains of Roman Antiquity For from Errickstone in the one end to Mauls Mire in the other where it borders upon Reinfraw there are evident footsteps of a Roman Causey or military way called to this day the Watlin-street This in some parts is visible for whole miles together and the people have a tradition that another Roman Street went from Lanrick to the Roman Camp near Falkirk At Lismehago a town in this shire was a Priory and Convent of the Monks of the order Vallis Caulium a sort of Cistercians founded by Fergus Lord of Galloway a Cell of Kelso b RANFREW Ranf●ew or Reinfraw is the next branch of the Damnii and is separated from the shire of Dumbarton on the West by the River Clyde which carries up ships of great burden for 10 miles On the East 't is joyned to the shire of Lanrick and on the West and South to the Sheriffdom of Aire It is in length twenty miles and in breadth eight but where broadest thirteen That part which lyeth near Clyde is pleasant and fertil without mountains only has some small risings but that to the South South-west and West is more barren hilly and moorish Our Author has observ'd this tract to be full of Nobility and Gentry who almost keep up a constant relation by marriage one with another The convenience of the Frith of Clyde the Coast whereof is all along very safe to ride in has caused good improvements in these parts At the West end of a fair Bay stand Gumrock Gumrock town and castle where there is a good road and a harbour lately contrived and a village is now in building More inward stands Greenock Greenock a good road and well built town of best account on all this Coast 'T is the chief seat of the herring-fishing and the Royal Company of Fishers have built a house at it for the convenience of trade Near this is Crawfird-Dyke Crawfird-Dyke where good houses are in building and a little more to the South New-work New-work where the town of Glasgow hath built a new port and called it Port-Glasgow with a large publick house Here is the Custom-house for all this Coast and the town of Glasgow hath obliged the Merchants to load and unload here But Pasly Pasly for antient Grandeur is the most considerable The Abbey and Church with fair gardens and orchards and a little Park for Fallow-deer are all enclosed with a stone-wall about a mile in circuit The Monastery here was of the Order of the Cluniacenses founded by Walter the second great Steward of King Malcolm the fourth The Chancel of the Church standeth yet where lye buried Robert 2. and his mother At this town there is a large Roman Camp the Praetorium is at the West end on a rising ground upon the descent whereof the town of Pasly stands This Praetorium
March Marr and Garioth Lord of Annandale and Mann was out-law'd by his brother James the 3. and after many struglings with the world and its troubles in the end as he stood by to see a Tournament at Paris he happen'd to be wounded by a splinter of a broken Lance and so died His son John the 4th Duke of Albany Regent likewise and made Guardian to K. James the 5. being charm'd with the pleasures of the French Court as having married a daughter and coheir of John Earl of Auvergne and Lauragueze died there without issue Whom out of respect and deference to the bloud Royal of Scotland Francis the 1. King of France honour'd so far as to allow him a place in France between the Archbishop of Longres Tily and the Duke of Alencon Peers of the Realm After his death there was no Duke of Albany till Queen Mary 11 In our memory conferr'd this honour upon Henry Lord Darley whom some few days after she made her Husband and K. James the 6. granted the same to his second son Charles an Infant now Duke of York These Parts are inhabited by a sort of people barbarous warlike and very mischievous commonly called Highland-men Highland-men who being the true race of the antient Scots speak Irish and call themselves Albinnich People they are of firm and compact bodies of great strength swift of foot high minded born as it were for the exercises of War or rather of robberies and desperately bent upon revenge They wear after the manner of the Irish † Plaids strip'd Mantles of divers colours with their hair thick and long living by hunting fishing fowling and stealing In war their armour is an iron head-piece and a coat of Mail their arms a bow barbed arrows and a broad back-sword And being divided into Families which they call Clanns what with plundering and murdering they commit such barbarous outrages Parliam 1581. that their savage cruelty hath made this Law necessary That if one of any Clann hath committed a trespass whoever of that Clann chances to be taken shall repair the damage or suffer death 12 Whereas the whole Clan commonly beareth feud for any hurt receiv'd by any one member thereof by excution of Laws order of Justice or otherwise PERTHSHIRE OUT of the very bosom of the Mountains of Albany issues the Tay The River Tay. the greatest river in all Scotland and rolls along thro' the fields till widening it self into a Lake full of Islands it there restrains its course After this kept within banks it waters Perth a large plentiful and rich country and receives the Amund a little River coming out of Athol This Athol Ath●l to make a little digression is infamous for Witches but a country fruitful enough having woody valleys where once the Caledonian Forest The Caled●nian Forest dreadful for its dark intricate windings for its denns of bears and its huge wild thick-maned bulls extended it self in former ages far and near in these parts As for the places herein they are of little account but the Earls are very memorable Thomas a younger son of Rolland of Galloway was in his Wife 's right Earl of Athol Earls of Athol whose son Patrick was murder'd at Hadington by the Bissets his Rivals and they immediately set the house on fire Chronicon Mailr●ss that it might be supposed he perished casually in the flames In the Earldom succeeded David Hastings who had married Patrick's Aunt by the mother's side whose son that David sirnamed of Strathbogy may seem to have been who a little after in the Reign of Hen. 3. of England was Earl of Athol married one of the daughters and heirs of Richard base son to King John of England and had a very noble Estate with her in England She bore him two sons John Earl of Athol who being very unsettled in his allegiance was hanged on a Gallows fifty foot high and David Earl of Athol who by a marriage with one of the daughters and heirs of John Comin of Badzenoth by one of the heirs of Aumar de Valence Earl of Pembroke got a mighty estate He had a son David who under King Edw. 2. was sometimes summoned to Parliament amongst the English Earls and being made under King Edward Baliol Lieutenant-General of Scotland was conquer'd by the valour of Andrew Murray and slain in a battle in Kelblen Forest in the year 1335. His son David had only two young daughters Elizabeth married to Tho. Percy from whom the Barons de Burrough fetch their original and Philippa married to Sir Tho. Halsham an English Knight Then fell the title of Athol to that Walter Stewart son to King Robert 2. who barbarously murder'd James 1. King of Scotland and was agreeably punished for that execrable piece of cruelty insomuch that Aeneas Sylvius then Pope Eugenius the 4th's Nuncio in Scotland is reported to have said That he could not tell whether he should give them greater commendations that revenged the King's death or punish them with a sharper censure of condemnation that polluted thems●lves with so heinous a Parricide After an interval of some few years this honour was granted to John Stewart of the house of Lorne son of James sirnamed the Black Knight by Joan the widow of King James 1. daughter of John Earl of Somerset and ‡ Nepti neice to John of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster whose Posterity enjoy it at this day a 'T is now a Marquisate in the Family of Murray Now the Tay by the Influx of the Almund being enlarged makes for Dunkell Dunkeld adorned by King David with an Episcopal See This upon account of the signification is lookt upon by most as a town of the Caledonians and they interpret it The hill of Hazles who will have it take the name from the Hazles of the Caledonian Forest * See ●he Additions B●r h. From hence the Tay takes its course by the ruins of Berth a little desolate City not forgetting what calamity it brought upon it in times past when with an impetuous torrent it overflow'd the pasture and corn grounds destroyed all the labours of the Husbandman and hurried headlong with this poor city a Royal infant and all the Inhabitants Instead whereof King William built Perth Perth much better situated which presently grew so rich that Necham who lived in that age made this distick upon it Transis ample Tai per rura per oppida per Perth Regnum sustentant istius urbis opes Great Tay through Perth through towns through country flies Perth the whole Kingdom with her wealth supplies But posterity hath named it from a Church founded in honour of St. John St. John's town St. J●hns Town And the English in the heat of the war between the Bruses and the Baliols fortified it with great Bulwarks which the Scots afterwards mostly demolished It is nevertheless a neat little City pleasantly seated between two Greens
bounded with the sea to the south with the water of North-Esk to the west with the Gransbain-hills and to the north with the River of Dee In length it is about twenty six miles or as some say twenty eight miles in breadth about twenty Upon the sea-coasts they have several convenient Crecks and some good harbours whereof Stone-hive is one of the best and for its greater safety the Earl Marshal who has a Salmon-fishing upon the north side of the harbour is now raising a Peer of stone Where the water of Cowy falls into the sea stands Cowy 〈◊〉 a free burgh Beneath the town are to be seen the ruines of a Castle built as 't is reported by Malcolm Kenmore who made the town a free Burgh On the Lands of Arduthie and Redcloak are some trenches to be seen cast up by the Danes at one of their Invasions made upon those parts and round the hill of Urie there is a deep ditch where the Scots encamped ●●tyr Dunnotyr-Castle stands upon a rock washed by the sea on three sides and joyned to the Land only by a narrow neck Towards the entrance of the Gate is a huge rock near forty ells high which one would think were always just ready to fall The Court is a large plot of green ground and the old buildings seven story high have exceeding thick walls It had once a Church which was demolished in the late Civil wars In the new buildings there are some rooms very stately and a Closet wherein is the Library of the family Within the Close there is a large Cistern about thirty cubits about Not far from this place is a dropping Cave where the water petrifies St. Padie's Church here is famous for being the burial place of St. Palladius ●●deen-● k ABERDEEN-SHIRE so called from the chief burgh in it contains the Countries or Marre Fourmanteen Garioch Strathbogie and that part of Buchan which lyeth south to the water of Ugie To the South it is bounded with the River Dee and the Gransbain mountains to the north-west and west it hath Bamf-shire and the river of Doverne to the east the Ocean and to the north part of Murray-Firth In length it 's about forty six miles and in breadth twenty eight The Inhabitants are generally very civil and polite They find here a spotted sort of Marble and much Slate and in the waters abundance of Pearls some of them very big and of a fine colour They have Deer in great abundance And the Eagles have their Nests upon the Craigs of Pennan Old Aberdeen 〈◊〉 Aber●●●●●●eatr ●a ● 28. is the Bishop's Seat and hath a Cathedral Church commonly call'd St. Machars large and stately built by several Bishops of this See In this Church was formerly a Library but about the year 1560 it was almost wholly destroyed so that now only the ruines remain The King's College so called from King James the fourth who assumed the Patronage of it is seated upon the south side of the town and for neatness and stateliness much exceeds the rest of the houses One side is covered with Slate the rest with Lead The windows of the Church wherein is a fine monument of Bishop Elphingston the Founder were formerly very remarkable for their painted glass and something of their ancient splendor still remains The Steeple besides others hath two bells of a very extraordinary bigness the top is vaulted with a double cross Arch above which is a King's crown having eight corners upheld by as many pillars of stone a round globe of stone with two gilded crosses closing the crown Hard by the Church there is a Library well stock'd with Books enlarged lately by those which Doctor Henry Scougal Professor of Divinity there and his Father Bishop of Aberdeen gave to it The College has a Primate or Principal a Professor of Divinity a Professor of the Civil Law a Professor of Physick a Sub-Principal who is also Professor of Philosophy three other Philosophy Professors and a Professor of the Languages New Aberdeen New Aberdeen * Theatrum Scotiae p. 29. about a mile from the Old as it is the Capital of the Sheriffdom of Aberdeen and the Seat of the Sheriff for tryal of causes so does it much exceed the rest of the Cities in the north of Scotland in bigness trade and beauty The air is wholsome and the Inhabitants well bred The Streets are paved with flint or a very hard sort of stone like it and the houses are very beautiful generally four Stories high or more which having for the most part Gardens and Orchards behind them make the whole City at a distance look like a Wood. In the High street there is a Church of Franciscans of free-stone begun by Bishop Elphingston and finished by Gavin Dumbar Bishop of the place The same Gavin built also a bridge of seven Arches over the river Dee about a mile from the City But the greatest ornament of this City is its College called the Mareshallian Academy as being founded by George Keith Earl Marshal in the year 1693 which the City of Aberdeen hath very much adorned with several additional buildings Besides a Primary-Professor who is called Principal it has four Professors of Philosophy one of Divinity and one of Mathematicks There is also a famous Library founded by the City supplied with Books by the benefactions of several learned men and well furnished with mathematical Instruments This College with that in the New Town make up one University called the University of King Charles Add to these the School-house founded by Dr. Dune which has one head Master and three Ushers and the Musick-School St. Nicholas's Church the Cathedral is built of Free-stone and covered with lead Formerly it was divided into three Churches the biggest was called the Old Church another the New Church and a third the arch'd-Arch'd-Church They have also an Alms-house for the maintenance of such Inhabitants as are old and poor with three Hospitals founded by several Persons The City is built upon three hills but the greatest part upon the highest and the outer parts are spread out upon the plain from whence there is an easie access by an ascent every way It had formerly a Mint as appears by silver Coins stamped there with this Inscription Urbs Aberdeae which are still preserved in the Closets of the curious At the West end of the City is a little round hill at the foot whereof there breaks out a fountain of clear water And in the middle another spring bubbles out called the Aberdonian-Spaw coming near the Spaw-water in the Bishoprick of Liege both in taste and quality Besides Aberdeen Kintor is a Burgh-Royal upon the Don and giveth title to the Earl of Kintor Kintor And Inerurie Inerurie erected into a Burgh-Royal by King Robert Bruce upon account of his having gain'd a signal victory at it Upon the South side of the water of Ugie stands Peterhead which has a Road
title of Earl of Wiltshire given by King H. the 6th to him and the heirs of his body but being Lord Deputy of Ireland as some others of this family have been and Treasurer of England he was banish'd by Edw. the fourth and soon after taken and beheaded His brothers were banished likewise and absconded John died at Jerusalem without children Thomas by the favour of H. the 7th had his attainder reversed and died in the year 1515 leaving two daughters Ann married to 10 Sir James James de S. Leger and Margaret the wife of William de Bullein who had issue 11 Sir Thomas Thomas Bullein made first Viscount of Rochfort and after Earl of Wilton and Ormond by King Hen. the 8th upon his marriage with Ann Bullein the Earl's daughter by her he had Elizabeth Queen of England whose memory will be ever sacred to the English After the death of Thomas Bullein 12 Without issue male Sir Pierce c. Peter or Peirce Butler a man of great power in Ireland and of the Earl's family who had been before created Earl of Ossery by K. Henry the 8th was now also preferr'd to the Earldom of Ormond He dying left it to his son James who by the daughter and heir of James Earl of Desmond had a son Thomas Earl of Ormond now living whose fidelity and loyalty has been render'd eminent by many tryals He has married his only daughter to Theobald Butler his Brother's son upon whom King James has lately conferr'd the title of Viscount Tullo As for the story of some Irish and those too Men turned into wolves such as would be thought creditable that certain men in these parts are every year converted into wolves 't is without question fabulous unless perhaps through excess of melancholy they may be affected with that distemper which the Physicians call 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 which will make them fancy and imagine themselves thus transformed As for those metamorphos'd Lycaones in Livonia so much talked of I cannot but have the same opinion of them Thus far we have continued in the Province of Mounster which Queen Elizabeth with great wisdom Presidents of Munster in order to advance the wealth and happiness of this Kingdom committed to the government of a Lord President that with one Assistant two Lawyers and a Secretary he might correct the insolencies of this Province and keep them to their duty The first President was Wartham St. Leger Kt. who was constituted in the year 1565 a man of great experience in the affairs of Ireland LAGENIA or LEINSTER THE second part of Ireland called by the inhabitants Leighnigh by the British Lein by the English Leinster by the Latins Lagenia and by the old Legends Lagen lies to the east entirely upon the sea bounded towards Mounster by the river Neor though in many places it reaches beyond it towards Conaught 't is bounded for a good way by the Shannon and towards Meath by its own limits The soil is rich and fruitful the air very warm and temperate and the inhabitants very near as civil and gentile in their mode of living as their neighbours in England from whence they are generally descended In Ptolemie's time it was peopled by the Brigantes Minapii Cauci and Blani From these Blani perhaps are derived and contracted those modern names Lein Leinigh and Leinster a At this day Leinster contains the Counties of Dublin Wicklow Wexford Caterlogh Kilkenny Kings-County Queens-County Kildare Meath West-Meath and Longford The whole Province is at present subdivided into the Counties of Kilkennigh Caterlogh Queens-County Kings-County Kildare Weisford and Dublin not to mention Wicklo and Fernes which either are already or will be added BRIGANTES or BIRGANTES THE Brigantes seem to have been seated between the mouth of the river Swire and the confluence of the Neor and Barrow called by Ptolemy Brigus And because there was an ancient city of the Brigantes in Spain called Brigantia Birgus now Barrow Florianus del Campo takes a great deal of pains to derive these Brigantes from his own country of Spain But allowing conjectures others may as likely derive them from the Brigantes of Britain a nation both near and populous However if what I find in some copies be true that these people were called Birgantes both he and others are plainly out for these take their denomination from the river a Now call'd Barrow Birgus about which they inhabit as the name it self may convince us These Brigantes or Birgantes Birgantes which you please peopled the Counties of Kilkenny Ossery and Caterlogh all watered by the river Birgus The County of KILKENNY THE County of Kilkenny is bounded on the west with the County of Tipperary on the east with the Counties of Weisford and Caterlogh on the south with the County of Waterford on the north with the Queens-County and on the north-west with the Upper-Ossery well beautified on all sides with towns and castles and more plentiful in every thing than any of the rest Near Ossery are those huge copling mountains Sleiew Bloemy which Giraldus calls Bladinae Montes of a vast height Bladin hills out of the bowels whereof springs the river Swire aforesaid as also the Neor and Barrow These descend in three several chanels but join in one before they fall into the sea which made the Ancients call them The three sisters The Neor commonly called the Neure in a manner cuts this County in two and when with a swift stream it has passed the Upper-Ossery the first Baron whereof was Barnabas Fitz-Patrick Upper-Ossery Barons of the Upper-Ossery raised to that honour by K. Edward the 6th and many forts on both sides it arrives at Kilkenny Kilkenny or as the word signifies the Cell or Church of Canic who was eminent for a pious and solitary life in this country The a It is now a City town is neat fair-built plentiful and by much the best midland town in this Island divided into the English-town and the Irish-town The Irish-town is as it were the suburbs where stands the said Canic's Church which hath both given name to the town and afforded a seat for the Bishops of Ossery The English-town is much newer built as I have read by Ranulph the third Earl of Chester wall'd on the west by Robert Talbot a noble man and fortified with a castle by the Butlers When the daughters of William Mareschal Earl of Pembroke made a partition of the lands among them 't is certain this fell to the share of the third sister married to Gilbert de Clare Earl of Glocester Lower down upon the same river stands a little fortified town called in English Thomas-town Thomas-town in Irish Bala-mac-Andan i.e. the town of Anthony's son both derived from the founder Thomas Fitz-Anthony an Englishman who flourished in Henry the third's time whose heirs are at this day Lords of the place Below this the river Callan Cal●an runs
of S. Patrick l. 2. rerum Anglicarum cap 26. and well supplied with fish from the river as it runs into the sea here famous for trade and for those sweet plains oaky woods and fine parks so entertaining about it Thus also William of Newborow Divelin a maritime City is the metropolis of Ireland it enjoys the benefit of a famous harbor and for trade and concourse of merchants rivals London It s situation is particularly pleasant and wholsome having hills on the south plains on the west and sea just the by it on the east and and the river Liffy on the north where ships ride safely Upon the river there are Kaies as we call them or certain works made to break the violence of the water For Caiare among the ancients signified to restrain Ad Auson lib. ● c. 22. check or hinder as the most learned Scaliger has observed Here the City wall well built of free stone begins fortified on the south with rampiers it has six gates which open into large suburbs on all sides The access on the south is by Dammes-gate near which stands the King's castle upon a rising well fortified with ditches and towers and provided with a good Arsenal built by Henry Loundres the Archbishop about the year 1220. In that suburb on the east side near St. Andrew's Church Henry the second King of England as Hoveden says caused a royal palace 22 Or rather banqueting-house to be built of smooth wattles very curious after the manner of this Country and here with the Kings and Princes of Ireland he kept a Chrstmas-day in great solemnity Over against it stands a fine College on the same spot where Alhallows Allhallows Monastery heretofore stood dedicated to the Indivisible and Holy Trinity endow'd with the privileges of an University by Queen Elizabeth of blessed memory Univ●rsity b gun and found●d in 1591 May 13. S ud n s ●dmi●ted in the year 1593. for the education of youth and lately furnished with a good Library which gives no small hopes that Religion and Learning will after a long exile return to Ireland formerly the seat of the Muses to which foreigners resorted as to the great Mart of liberal arts and sciences 1320. L. MS. of Baron Houth In the reign of Edward the second Alexander Bicknor Archbishop of Dublin having obtained from the Pope the privileges of an University for this place and instituted publick Lectures first began to recall them but this laudable design was broken by the turbulent times that followed The north gate opens towards the bridge which is arched and built of * F. vivo Saxo. free stone by King John who joyned Oustman-town to the City For here the Oustmanni which Giraldus says came from Norway and those Northern Islands setled according to our Histories about the year 1050. In this suburbs stood formerly the famous Church of S. Mary de Oustmanby for so 't is call'd in King John's Charter and also a House of Black Friers whither the King's Courts of Judicature were lately transferr'd On the west part of Dublin there are two gates Ormonds-gate and Newgate which is the common Gaol both leading to the longest suburb of this City named St. Thomas where stands also a noble Abbey of the same name called Thomas Court Thomas Court founded and endowed with large revenues by King Henry the second to expiate for the death of Thomas Archbishop of Canterbury On the south we enter by S. Paul's gate and that call'd S. Nicholas opening into S. Patrick's suburb where stands the Palace of the Archbishop known by the name of S. Sepulcher with a stately Church dedicated to S. Patrick very fine within for its stone pavements and arch'd roof and without for its high steeple 'T is uncertain when this Church was first built but that Gregory King of Scots about the year 890 came in pilgrimage to it is plain from the Scotch history Afterwards it was much enlarged by King John and made a Church of Prebends by John Comy Archbishop of Dublin which was confirmed by Coelestine the third Bishop of Rome in the year 1191. After that again Henry Loundres his successor in this See of Dublin augmented the dignities of the Parsonages P●rsonatuum as the words of the founder are and made it conformable to the immunities orders and customs of the Church of Salisbury At present it consists of a Dean a Chanter a Chancellor a Treasurer two Archdeacons and twenty two Prebendaries Stat. Parl. 18 Hen. 8. c. 15. the only light and lamp not to conceal a very noble Character which a Parliament of this Kingdom gave it of all pious and Ecclesiastical discipline and order in Ireland Here is also another Cathedral Church in the very heart of the City dedicated to the Holy Trinity but commonly call'd Christ's Temple Concerning it's foundation we have this passage in the Archives of that Church Sitric King of Dublin son of Ableb Count of Dublin gave a piece of ground to the Holy Trinity and to Donatus the first Bishop of Dublin to build a Church on in honour of the Holy Trinity and not only that but gold and silver also sufficient for that design and to finish the whole * Cur●● Church-yard This was done about the year 1012 at which time Lancarvanensis affirms that Sitric son of Abloie so he calls him flourished The work was begun by Donatus but carry'd on and finish'd by Laurence Archbishop of Dublin Richard Strongbow Earl of Pembroke commonly call'd Comes Striguliae whose tomb repair'd by 23 Sir Henry Henry Sidney Lord Deputy is to be seen here Robert Fitz-Stephens and Reimond Fitz-Girald On the south side of the Church stands the Town-hall built of square stone and call'd Tolestale Tol●stal● where Causes are try'd before the Mayor and where sessions and publick meeting of the Citizens are often held The City enjoys many privileges Formerly it was govern'd in chief by a Provost but in the year 1409 King Henry the fourth gave them the privilege of choosing every year a Mayor with two Bailiffs and of carrying a guilt sword before him Afterward King Edward the sixth changed these Bailiffs into Sheriffs There is nothing wanting to the grandeur and happiness of this City but the removal of those heaps of sand that by the flux and reflux of the sea are wash'd up into the mouth of the river Liffy and hinder great ships from coming up but at high water Thus much for Dublin the account whereof I confess to be mostly owing to the diligence and knowledge of James Usher Chancellor of S. Patricks whose variety of Learning and soundness of Judgment are infinitely beyond his years As for Robert Vere earl of Oxford whom Richard the second who was profuse in bestowing titles of honour made Marquiss of Dublin Ma●q●●●● of Dub●●● and afterwards Duke of Ireland I have took notice of him before and need not report it here
if these vices had not continued among them even till our times the right of succession had been more certain and neither the Gentry nor Commonalty so much stain'd with the blood and murther of their own relations about the right of inheritance nor the whole Kingdom so infamous among foreign nations upon this account But this falls not within the compass of my design This Archiepiscopal dignity had not been long instituted till it was again confirmed by Vivian the Pope's Legat so that the opinion of some who prefer the See of Armagh and make it more ancient than that of Canterbury pleading that in this respect it ought to have the upper seat in all General Councils is but vain and empty for Armagh is the younger sister by many ages And besides precedence in General Councils is never given according to the antiquity of Sees Lib. 1. of ●oly Ce●●monies S●●t 14. but all Prelates of what degree soever take place among their fellows according to their ordination or promotion During Vivian's abode in Ireland Armagh was reduc'd and subjected to the English by 43 Sir John Curcy John de Curcy who did little hurt to the Country but was very favourable to the Religious there and is said to have repair'd the Church which since our time was burnt together with the whole City by John O-Neal so that nothing remains at this day but some few watled cottages and the ruinous walls of the Monastery Priory and Archbishop's Palace Among the Bishops of this See the most eminent are S. Malachy the first that restrain'd Clerks from marrying in Ireland a man of great learning and piety in that age and who was no more tainted with the barbarity of the Country than Sea-fish with the saltness of the sea-water as S. Bernard who writ his life at large has told us Then Richard Fitz-Raulf commonly call'd Armachanus who wrote very sharply against the Friers Mendicants about the year 1355 abhorring that voluntary way of beggery in a Christian Near Armagh upon a hill are still visible the remains of an old Castle call'd Owen-Maugh which is said to have been the habitation of the King of Ulster More to the East lyes Black-water in Irish More i.e. great which is the boundary between this County and Tir Oen whereof we shall speak in its proper place In and about this County all the power and Interest is in the Mac Genises O-Hanlons O-Hagans and many of the family of the O-Neals who have distingush'd themselves by several sirnames The County of DOWN. NExt on the east lyes the County of Down very large and fruitful reaching as far as as the Irish sea bounded on the north with the Lough Eaugh or as it is called by a later name Logh-Sidney and on the south with the County of Louth from which it is separated by the river Newry Upon this river at its very entrance into the County a town of the same name was built and fortified since our memory by 44 Sir Nicholas Nicholas Bagnal Marshall of Ireland who by his excellent conduct did many memorable exploits here and and very much improved the County Not far from hence lyes the river Ban the less so called from the solitary mountains of Mourne from whence it rises and runs through the territory of a It is called Evaugh Eaugh belonging to the family of Mac Gynnis ●ac Gyn●●● who had formerly a sharp contest with the O Neals that tyranniz'd in Ulster 45 Whether they were vassals to O-Neal and whether c. whether they should find O Neals soldiers provision c. which kind of service they called Bonoghty It had also an Episcopal See at Dramore above which upon the bank of the b Lough-Neagth Lough Eaugh lye the territories of c Killulto Kilwlto and Kilwarny much incumber'd with woods and boggs Thus much of the inner parts Upon the coast the sea insinuates it self with so many chops and creeks and the Lough spreads it self so very much near Dyffrin a woody vale heretofore the inheritance of the Mandevils and since of the Whites that it makes two Chersoneses Lecal Lecal on the south and Ardes on the Aqui●●●e north Lecal is a rich soil the remotest part of Ireland to the east The utmost promontory in it is now called by the mariners S. John's Foreland The Pro●●●ory ●●nium but by Ptolemy Isanium which perhaps comes from Isa a British word signifying lowest In the very streights of it stands Dunum ●●●um a flourishing town taken notice of by that name in Ptolemy but not in its proper place 't is now call'd Down ●●●n is very ancient a Bishop's See and remarkable for the tombs of Patrick Patricks ●●●●chre Brigid and Columba who have this rhyming distich writ upon them Hi tres in Duno tumulo tumulantur in uno Brigida Patricius atque Columba pius One tomb three Saints contains one vault below Does Brigid Patrick and Columba show This monument of theirs is said to have been demolished by Leonard Gray Lord Deputy in Henry the eighth's time For certain upon his being accused of male-administration and found guilty the prophanation of S. Patrick's Church was among other things objected against him The Religious have contended as much about the burial-place of this S. Patrick as ever the Cities of Greece did about the native Country of Homer Those of Down will have it among them upon the authority of the verses aforesaid Those of Armagh fix it among them from that passage but now cited from S. Bernard The Monks of Glastenbury in England have challenged it and offer the Records and monuments of their Abbey to clear and make good their title And lastly the Scots some of them affirm him not only to be born near Glascow among them but buried there too 46 At Kirk-Patrick In this Down John Curcy a warlike Englishman and far more devout than generally soldiers are first setled the Benedictine Monks after he had reduc'd these parts and translated the Monastery of Carick which Mac Eulef King of Ulster had built in Erinaich near S. Finin Mac-Nell's Fountain into the Isle of Ynis-Curcy so called from him and by him well endow'd with lands and tenements Before that Endowment of Monastiries the Monks of Ireland like those anciently in Egypt whose order the pious Congellus that is as they interpret it A fair pledge brought into Ireland were wholly devoted to prayer and so industrious as not only to supply their own wants but those of others by the labour of their own hands But this like all humane institutions was but short liv'd their manners corrupted and riches by little stifled that piety which first gave them being in the world Robert Roberd de Mons de Immutatione Ordinis Monachorum Abbot of Molism in Burgundy took a great deal of pains to recover this ancient discipline persuading his disciples to live by
And on Sunday following being the next after the Nativity o● the blessed Virgin the Lord John Fitz-Thomas died at Laraghbrin● near Maynoth and was buried among the Friers-minors at Kildar● He is said to have been made Earl of Kildare a little befo●● his death His son and heir Thomas Fitz-John a very prude●● Man succeeded him After this we had News that the Castle of Cragfergus was surrender'd to the Scots upon condition the lives of the Garrison-Soldiers should be saved On the day of the exaltation of the holy Cross Conghor was stain together with Mac-keley and fifty Irish by William Lord Burk and Richard Bermingham in Conaught Item On the Monday before All-Souls-day many of the Scots were slain in Ulster by John Loggan Hugh Lord Bisset namely about 100 with double Arms and 200 with single Arms. The slain in all amounted to 300 besides the foot Afterward on the Eve of the Royal S. Edmund there hapned such a Storm of Wind and Rain as threw down many Houses beat down the Bell of Trinity-church in Dublin and did much mischief both by Sea and Land Item On the Eve of S. Nicholas the Lord Alan Stewart who was taken Prisoner in Ulster by John Loggan and the Lord John Sandale was carried to Dublin-castle This same year there came News from England of a dissention between the King and the Earl of Lancaster That they were for taking one another Prisoners and that the whole Kingdom was embroil'd about it This year also about the feast of Andrew the Apostle the Lord Hugh le Despencer and the Lord Bartholomew de Baldesmere Wigorniensis the Bishop of Worcester and the Bishop of Ely were sent to Rome to negotiate some important Business of the King 's for Scotland who return'd again into England about the feast of the purification of the blessed Mary Item The Lacies came to Dublin after the same feast and shew'd by an Inquisition that the Scots were not brought into Ireland by their means whereupon they were acquitted and had the King's Charter for protection and safety upon taking their Oaths to keep ●he Peace and do their utmost to destroy the Scots Item This year after the feast of Carnis privium the Scots ●arch'd privately as far as Slain with 20000 arm'd Men and ra●ag'd the Country though the Army of Ulster lay just before ●●em Afterwards on the Monday before the feast of S. Matthias the ●postle the Earl of Ulster was apprehended in S. Marie's Abby ●y the Mayor of Dublin viz. Robert Notyngham and carried to ●ublin-castle where he was long imprison'd and the Chamber where●● he was kept burnt and seven of the Earl's Attendants ●ain The same week in the Vigil of S. Matthias Brus took his ●arch towards Dublin at the head of his Army and hearing of the ●arl's Imprisonment turn'd off towards Cnok-castle which he en●●r'd and therein took the Lord Hugh Tirell with his Wife who ●as Baron of it and they were afterwards ransom'd That Night it was agreed by common consent among the Citi●ens of Dublin That S. Thomas's-street should be burnt down for ●ear of the Scots the flames whereof got hold of S. john's-John's-church ●nd burnt it down likewise with Magdalen-chappel all the Su●urbs of the City and S. Mary's-monastery The Church of S. Pa●rick was spoil'd by the said Villans Item Our Saviour's Church which belongs to the Friers-pre●icants was destroy'd by the Mayor and his Citizens and the ●●ones were converted to the building of a City wall which was ●ade of greater compass in the north part of the City above the ●ey for formerly the Walls ran just by the Church of S. Owen ●here we see a Tower beyond the Gate also another Gate in that ●treet where the Taverns are however the Mayor and Citizens ●ere afterwards commanded by the King of England to make ano●her Convent as formerly After the feast of S. Matthias Le Brus ●●derstanding that the City was fortified to receive him he march'd ●●wards Salmons-leap where Robert le Brus King of Scotland ●ith Edward le Brus the Earl of Morrey John Meneteth the ●ord John Stewart the Lord Philip Mountbray encamp'd them●elves and continued for four days during which they burnt part ●f the Village broke open the Church and rifled it and then ●arch'd towards Le Naas The Lacies notwithstanding their Oaths advis'd and conducted them and Hugh Lord Canon made ●adin White his Wife's Brother guide them through the Country ●o they came to Le Naas plunder'd the Village broke the Churches ●●d open'd the Graves in the Church-yard for hidden Treasure ●●d did many other Mischiefs during the two days they stay'd ●●ere After this they took their march towards Tristildermote ●●e second week in Lent and destroy'd the Friers-minors tak●●g away their Books Vestments and other Ornaments from ●ence they return'd to Baligaveran and so to Callan about the ●east of Pope Gregory without regarding the Village of Kil●enny At the same time Letters were brought by the Lord Edmund ●otiller Chief Justice of Ireland at that time and by the Lord Thomas Fitz-John Earl of Kildare the Lord Richard Clare the Lord Arnold le Pover and the Lord Maurice Fitz-Thomas to ●●ffer the Earl of Ulster to be mainpriz'd and set at liberty by the King 's writ but nothing was done at present in this Business The People of Ulster came afterwards in a great Body amount●ng to 800 and desir'd assistance from the King against the Scots Upon which the King's Banner was deliver'd to them But as soon as they got it they did more mischief than the Scots themselves they eat Flesh all the Lent and almost wasted the whole Country for which they were accurs'd both by God and Man Edmund * Pincerna Butler gave the Irish a great defeat near Trestildermot Item The same Edmund being now Chief Justice of Ireland defeated O Morghe at Balilethan The Scots under le Brus were now got as far as Limerick But the English in Ireland being drawn together in great Bodies to receive them at Ledyn they retreated privately in the night from Conninger Castle About Palm-sunday News came to Dublin That the Scots were at Kenlys in Ossory and that the Irish Nobility were at Kilkenny and had drawn a great Army together there to engage Le Brus. On the Monday following the King sent an Order to the People of Ulster to advance against the Scots under the command and conduct of Thomas Fitz-John Earl of Kildare whereupon they march'd forward Le Brus being then at Cashell from whence he mov'd to Nanath where he stay'd some time and burnt and wasted all the Possessions of the Lord Pincern MCCCXVII On Maundy Thursday the Lord Edmund Botiller Justiciary of Ireland the Lord Thomas Fitz-John Earl of Kildare for the King had conferr'd the jurisdiction and privileges of the Earldom of Kildare upon him Richard Clare with the Ulster-Army Arnold Pover Baron of Donnoyll Maurice Rochfort Thomas Fitz-Maurice and the Cauntons and their
and made ready to entertain the Conquerors whosoever they should be usually saying upon this occasion That it would be a shame if such Guests should come and find him unprovided It pleasing God to bless them with the Victory he invited them all to Supper to rejoice with him giving God the thanks for his success telling them He thought the things look'd as well upon his Table as running in his Fields notwithstanding some advis'd him to be saving He was buried in the Convent-church of the Friers-predicants of Coulrath near the river Banne Item The Earl of Ormond Chief Justice of Ireland went into England and Moris Fitz-Thomas Earl of Kildare was made Chief Justice of Ireland by a charter or commission after this manner Omnibus c. To all whom these Presents shall come greeting Know ye that we have committed to our faithful and loving Subject Moris Earl of Kildare the office of Chief Justice of our Kingdom of Ireland together with the Nation it self and the Castles and other Appurtenances thereunto belonging to keep and govern during our will and pleasure commanding that while he remains in the said office he shall receive the sum of five hundred pounds yearly cut of our Exchequer at Dublin Vpon which consideration he shall perform the said office and take care of the Kingdom and maintain twenty Men and Horse in arms constantly whereof himself shall be one during the enjoyment of the said commission In witness whereof c. Given at Dublin by the hands of our beloved in Christ Frier Thomas Burgey Prior of the Hospital of S. John of Jerusalem in Ireland our Chancellor of that Kingdom on the 30th of March being the 35th year of our reign Item James Botiller Earl of Ormond return'd to Ireland being made Lord Chief Justice as before whereupon the Earl of Kildare resign'd to him MCCCLXI Leonel son to the King of England and Earl of Ulster in right of his Wife came as the King's Lieutenant into Ireland and on the 8th of September being the Nativity of the blessed Virgin arriv'd at Dublin with his Wife Elizabeth the Daughter and Heir of William Lord Burk Earl of Ulster Another Pestilence happen'd this year There died in England Henry Duke of Lancaster the Earl of March and the Earl of Northampton Item On the 6th of January Moris Doncref a Citizen of Dublin was buried in the Church-yard of the Friers-predicants in this City having contributed 40 l. towards glazing the Church of that Convent Item There died this year Joan Fleming wife to Geffery Lord Trevers and Margaret Bermingham wife to Robert Lord Preston on S. Margaret's eve and were buried in the Church of the Friers-predicants of Tredagh Item Walter Lord Bermingham the younger died on S. Lawrence-day who left his Estate to be divided among his Sisters one of whose Shares came to the aforesaid Preston Item Leonel having arriv'd in Ireland and refresh'd himself for some few days enter'd into a War with O Brynne and made Proclamation in his Army That no Irish should be suffer'd to come near his Army One hundred of his own Pensioners were slain Leonel hereupon drew up both the English and the Irish into one body went on successfully and by God's mercy and this means grew victorious in all places against the Irish Among many both English and Irish whom he knighted were these Robert Preston Robert Holiwood Thomas Talbot Walter Cusacke James de la Hide John Ash and Patrick and Robert Ash Item He remov'd the Exchequer from Dublin to Carlagh and gave 500 l. towards walling the Town Item On the feast of S. Maur Abbot there happen'd a violent Wind that shook or blew down the Pinnacles Battlements Chimnies and such other Buildings as overtop'd the rest to be particular it blew down very many Trees and some Steeples for instance the Steeple of the Friers-predicants MCCCLXII In the 36th year of this King's reign and on the 8th of April S. Patrick's church in Dublin was burnt down through negligence MCCCLXIV In the 38th year of this reign Leonel Earl of Ulster arriv'd on the 22d of April in England leaving the Earl of Ormond to administer as his Deputy On the 8th of December following he return'd again MCCCLXV In the 39th of this reign Leonel Duke of Clarence went again into England leaving Sir Thomas Dale Knight Deputy-keeper and Chief Justice in his absencc MCCCLXVII A great feud arose between the Berminghams of Carbry and the People of Meth occasion'd by the depredations they had made in that Country Sir Robert Preston Knight Chief Baron of the Exchequer put a good Garrison into Carbry-castle and laid out a great deal of mony against the King's Enemies that he might be able to defend what he held in his Wife 's right Item Gerald Fitz-Moris Earl of Desmond was made Chief Justice of Ireland MCCCLXVIII In the 42d year of the same reign after a Parliament of the English and Irish Frier Thomas Burley Prior of Kylmaynon the King's Chancellor in Ireland John Fitz-Reicher Sheriff of Meth Sir Robert Tirill Baron of Castle-knoke and many more were taken Prisoners at Carbry by the Berminghams and others of that Town James Bermingham who was then kept in Irons as a Traytor in the castle of Trim was set at liberty in exchange for the Chancellor the rest were forc'd to ransom themselves Item The Church of S. Maries in Trim was burnt down by the negligent keeping of the fire in the monastery Item On the vigil of S. Luke the Evangelist Leonel Duke of Clarence died at Albe in Pyemont He was first buried in the city Papy near S. Augustin and afterwards in the Convent-church of the Austin Fryers at Clare in England MCCCLXIX In the 43d year cf this reign Sir Willium Windefore Knight a Person of great valour and courage being made the King's Deputy came into Ireland on the 12th of July to whom Gerald Fitz-Moris Earl of Desmond resign'd the office of Chief Justice MCCCLXX In the 44th year of this reign a Pestilence rag'd in Ireland more violent than either of the former two many of the Nobility and Gentry as also Citizens and Children innumerable died of it The same year Gerald Fitz-Maurice Earl of Desmond John Lord Nicholas Thomas Lord Fitz-John and many others of the Nobility were taken Prisoners on the 6th of July near the Monastery of Magie in the County of Limerick by O-Breen and Mac Comar of Thomond many were slain in the Fray Whereupon the Lieutenant went over to Limerick in order to defend Mounster leaving the War against the O-Tothiles and the rest in Leinster till some other opportunity This year died Robert Lord Terell Baron of Castle Knock together with his son and heir and his Wife Scolastica Houth so that the Inheritance was shared between Joan and Maud the sisters of the said Robert Terell Item Simon Lord Fleming Baron of Slane John Lord Cusak Baron of Colmolyn and John Taylor late mayor of Dublin a very
the celebrated Organ at Ulme This city gave birth to Henrietta Maria youngest daughter to K. Charles 1. to William Petre ●ho was Secretary and Privy-Counsellor to K. Henry 8. Edward 6. Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth and seven times Embassadour in foreign parts and lastly to Sir Thomas Bodley employ'd by Queen Elizabeth to several foreign Courts but especially famous for his founding the Publick Library in the University of Oxford call'd after his own name nn Thomas the last Earl of Exeter mention'd by our Author was succeeded by William his son and heir who dying without issue-male The Ea●●s continu'd left that honour to David Cecil Son of Sir Richard Cecil who was second son to Thomas Earl of Exeter This David was succeeded by John his son and heir and he by his son of the same name o At the confluence of Ex and Clist is Topesham Tophesha● an ancient town that hath flourish'd much by the obstructions of the river Ex. Several attempts have been made to remove these dammes but none so effectual as the new works in the time of King Charles 2. at the vast expence indeed of the City of Exeter but to such advantage that Lighters of the greatest burden come up to the city-key On the east of Exeter is a parish call'd Heavy-tree Heavy-t●●● memorable for the birth of Hooker the judicious Author of the Ecclesiastical Polity and of that great Civilian Dr. Arthur Duck. The next parish is Pinhoe Pinhoe remarkable for bringing forth the two Rainolds John and William brothers zealous maintainers both of the Reform'd and the Popish Religion in their turns Not far from hence is Stoke-Canon Stoke-C●non given by K. Canute to the Church of Exeter a representation of which gift was to be seen not long ago in a window of the Parish-Church there viz. a King with a triple Crown and this Inscription Canutus Rex donat hoc Manerium Eccles Exon. Four miles east of Exon we pass the river Clyst near which upon Clyst-heath Clyst-heath the Cornish rebels were totally defeated An. 1549. by John Lord Russel afterwards Earl of Bedford p Next is Honnyton Honny●●● where the market was anciently kept on Sundays as it was also in Exeter Launceston and divers other places till in the reign of K. John they were alter'd to other days Over the river Ottery is Vennyton bridge Vennyt●●-bridge at which in the time of Edw. 6. a battle was fought against the Cornish rebels q And upon the same river stands Budley Budley famous for being the birth-place of that great Statesman and Historian Sir Walter Rawleigh r From whence to the north east is Sidmouth Sidmou●● now one of the chiefest fisher-towns of those parts s And Seaton Seaton where the inhabitants formerly endeavour'd to cut out a haven and procur'd a Collection under the Great Seal for that purpose but now there remain no footsteps of that work t The river Ax passeth by Ford Ford. to which Abbey the Courtneys were great benefactours it is now in the hands of Edmund Prideaux Esq Baldwin Archbishop of Canterbury in the reign of K. Richard 1. was first Monk and then Abbot here Ax empties it self into the sea at Axmouth Axmo●●● formerly a good harbour for ships Several attempts have been made to repair this decay'd haven by the family of the Earles but all in vain u Crossing the country to the north-west we meet with Hartland Hart●●●● the possessions of which Monastery were confirm'd by Richard 1. with the grant of great immunities particularly of a Court holding plea of all matters saving life and member arising in their own lands In the time of Q. Elizabeth a Bill was preferr'd in the house of Commons for finishing that port Not far from this is Clovelly-harbour Clo●●●●● secur'd by a Piere erected at great charges by the Carys who have had their seats here from the time of Richard 2. 'T is now the most noted place in those parts for herring-fishing At a little distance lies Hole or South-hold S●●th-hold the native place of Dr. John Moreman Vicar of Maynhennet in Cornwall towards the latter end of Henry 8. memorable upon this account that he was the first who taught his Parishioners the Lord's Prayer Creed and ten Commandments in the English tongue By which we learn in how short a time that language has entirely prevail'd against the native Cornish w Upon the river Ock is Okehampton ●kehampton which as it had formerly 92 Knights fees belonging to it so it is at present a good market town incorporated by K. James 1. sends Burgesses to Parliament and gives the title of Baron to the family of the Mohuns More to the north lies Stamford-Courtney Stamford-Courtney where began a great insurrection in the time of K. Edward 6. by two of the inhabitans one of whom would have no Gentlemen the other no Justices of Peace x At a little distance is North-Tawton North-Tawton where there is a pit of large circumference 10 foot deep out of which sometimes springs up a little brook or bourn and so continues for many days 'T is taken by the common people as a fore-runner of publick sorrow as that Bourn in Hertfordshire call'd Woobournmore Directly towards the north upon the river Moule lieth South-moulton ●outh-●oulton an ancient town incorporate formerly call'd Snow-moulton when it was held by the Martyns by Sergeanty to find a man with a bow and three arrows to attend the Earl of Gloucester when he should hunt thereabouts x From hence to the south-west is Torrington ●●rrington call'd in old Records Chepan-Torrington an ancient Borough which sent Burgesses to Parliament But that privilege hath been long discontinu'd both here and in other places in this County It was incorporated by Queen Mary by the name of Mayor Aldermen and Burgesses and hath yielded the title of Earl to George Duke of Albemarle the great Restorer of K. Charles 2. as after him to Christopher his only son and since to Arthur Herbert the present Earl late Lord Admiral y The river goes next to Bediford ●ediford mention'd by our Author for it's bridge It is so high that a ship of 50 or 60 tunn may sail under it For which and for number of arches it equals if not exceeds all others in England 'T was begun by Sir Theobald Granvill and for the finishing of it the Bishop of the Diocese granted out Indulgences to move the people to more liberal contributions and accordingly great sums of money were collected This place hath been in the possession of the Granvills ever since the Conquest a family famous particularly for Sir Richard Granvill's behaviour in Glamorganshire in the reign of W. Rufus and another of the same name under Q. Elizabeth who with one ship maintain'd a sea-fight for 24 hours against 50 of the Spanish Galeons and at last yielded upon
Roman coins often dug up in it which they call Binchester-penies and for Roman Inscriptions one of which cut out thus in an Altar there I lately met with Of the Mother Goddesses see Lancashire In the year of Christ 236. Votum solvit lubens merito DEAB MATRIB Q. LO CL. QVIN TIANVS COS V. S. L. M. Another stone was lately dug up here very much defac'd with gaps which yet upon a narrow view shews this Inscription TRIB COHOR I. CARTOV MARTI VICTORI GENIO LOCI ET BONO EVENTVI I have read nothing else relating to it but what is mention'd in an old book That the Earls of Northumberland tore this with other villages from the Church when that cursed lust after gold swallow'd up the sacred revenues of the Church On the other side of the Were among the hills we see Branspeth-castle Branspeth-castle built by the Bulmers and by a daughter of Bernard Bulmer marry'd to Galfrid Nevill added with other great possessions to the family of the Nevills h A little lower the Were has many huge stones in the chanel of it never cover'd but when the river is overflow'd by rain upon these if you pour water and it mix and temper a while upon the stone it becomes thereupon saltish a thing to be effected no where else Nay at Butterby a little village when the river is shallow and fallen from those stones in the summer time Salt stones there bursts out of them a reddish salt water which grows so white and hard by the heat of the sun that they who live thereabouts take it up and use it for salt Now the river as if it design'd to make an island goes almost quite round the chief city of this County seated on a hill upon which account it was call'd Dunholm by the Saxons Dunhol● Durha● or D●●● For as we may infer from Bede they call'd a hill Dun and a River Island holme From hence the Latins call it Dunelm●m but the common name is very corruptly Durham The town stands high and is very strong but is of no great compass lying in a kind of oval form enclos'd quite round by the river except on the north part and fortify'd with walls besides In the south part almost where the river winds it self back again stands the Cathedral Church which with its spires and tower-steeple makes a fine show In the heart of the town stands the castle almost in the middle between two stone bridges the one upon the river on the east side the other on the west From the castle northward lies the market-place and S. Nicholas's Church from whence there shoots out a suburbs to the north-east for a good way within a winding of the river as likewise others on both sides beyond the river leading towards the bridges each of which has its particular and distinct Church The original of this town is not very ancient For when the Monks of Lindisfarn were disquieted in the Danish wars and forc'd by that people to wander up and down with the reliques of S. Cuthbert at last if we may believe it being admonish'd by an oracle they fix'd and settl'd here about the year of Christ 995. But take this relation from my Durham-Author himself All the people following the corps of our most holy father Cuthbert came to Durham a place strong by nature and scarce habitable enclos'd quite round with a very thick wood and in the middle only a small plain which they us'd to plough up and sow where Bishop Aldwin afterwards built a pretty large Church of stone The said Prelate therefore with the help of all the people and the assistance of Uthred Earl of the Northumbrians fell'd and grubb'd up all this wood and in a short time made the place habitable Lastly from the river Coqued to the very Tees there was no body but came in readily both to help forward this work and also afterwards to build the Church and till it was finish'd ceas'd not with great zeal to follow it The wood being thus routed up and every one as his lot fell having a house assign'd him the aforesaid Bishop out of zeal to Christ and S. Cuthbert began to build a handsome pretty large Church and endeavour'd with great application to finish it Thus far my Author i Not many years after those of the English who could not endure the Norman Empire trusting to the strength of this place made it the seat of war and gave William the Conquerour no small disturbance from it For Guilielmus Gemeticensis writes That they went into a part of the County inaccessible by reason of woods and waters building a castle with a strong rampire round it which they call'd Dunholm Out of this they made frequent sallies and kept themselves close there waiting for King Sueno the Dane's coming But things not happening as they had expected they took themselves to flight and William the Conquerour coming to Durham granted many privileges to secure and confirm the liberties of the Church and built the castle already mention'd upon a higher part of the hill which afterwards became a habitation for the Bishops and the Keys of it when that See was vacant by an old custom were wont to be hung upon St. Cuthbert's Sepulcher When this castle was new built William of Malmesbury who liv'd about that time gives us this description of the City Durham is a hill rising by little and little from one plain of the valley by an easie and slow ascent to the very top and notwithstanding by its rugged situation and craggy precipices the access to it be cut off on all sides yet lately they have built a castle upon the hill At the very foot and bottom of the castle runs an excellent river for fish especially Salmon Almost at the same time as that old book has it William de Carelepho the Bishop who resettled Monks here for their Cloisters had been every where subverted by the Danes having pull'd down that Church which Aldwin had built began another more stately which was finish'd by Radulph his successor and enlarg'd with other buildings by Nicholas Fernham the Bishop and Thomas Melscomb the Prior in the year 1242. A pretty while after that William Skirlaw the Bishop rais'd a neat building on the west part of the Church which they call Gallilee 〈◊〉 whither they transferr'd the marble tomb of Venerable Bede In which place Hugh de Puteaco formerly began a piece of building where Women these are the words of an old book might lawfully enter and those who might not personally take a view of the secrets of the holy places might nevertheless have some comfort from the view and contemplation of the Saints This same Bishop Ralph as our Historian relates converted all that space of ground between the Church and the Castle where many houses stood into a plain field lest the Church should either be defil'd by the dirt or endanger'd by the fire of the town
And although the city be naturally strong yet he increas'd both the strength and state of it by a wall for he built one all along from the Chancel of the Church to the tower of the castle which now begins by degrees to fall under the weight of age but never that I know of bore the brunt of an enemy For when David Brus King of Scots destroy'd all with fire and sword as far as Beaupark or Berepark ●epark which is a Park just under the city whilst Edward 3. ●346 was at the siege of Calis in France Henry Percy and William Zouch Archbishop of York with such troops as they could raise on a sudden encounter'd the Scots and charg'd them with that heat and bravery that they almost cut off the first and second battalions to a man took the King prisoner and put the third into such consternation that they fled with all the haste they could make their fear carrying them over the deepest precipices till they got again into their own country This was a remarkable engagement and to be reckon'd among the many bloody defeats we have given the Scots call'd by us The Battel of Nevill Cross For the greatest of the Scotch Nobility being slain here and the King himself taken they were forc'd to part with much ground hereabouts and yield up many Castles into our hands And this may suffice for Durham to which with the Reader 's leave I will add a distich of Necham's and an Hexastich of Jonston's and so conclude Arte situque loci munita Dunelmia salve Qua floret sanctae relligionis apex Hail happy Durham Art and Nature's care Where Faith and Truth at th' noblest height appear Vedra ruens rapidis modò cursibus agmine leni Seque minor celebres suspicit urbe viros Quos dedit ipsa olim quorum tegit ossa sepulta Magnus ubi sacro marmore Beda cubat Se jactant aliae vel relligione vel armis Haec armis cluit haec relligione potens Unequal Were as by her walls it runs Looks up and wonders at her noble sons Whom she gave life and now their death does mourn And ever weeps o'er Beda's sacred urn Let others boast of piety or war While she 's the care of both and both of her As for the Monks being turn'd out and twelve Prebendaries with two Archdeacons substituted in lieu of them as for the Prior's also being chang'd into a Dean I have nothing to say to them These are things sufficiently known to every body 1 And unwilling I am to remember how this Bishoprick was dissolv'd by a private Statute and all the possessions thereof given to Edward 6. when private greediness edg'd by Church-men did grinde the Church and withdrew match from God wherewith Christian piety had formerly honour'd God But Queen Mary repeal'd that Statute and restor'd the said Bishoprick with all the possessions and franchises thereof that God might enjoy his own It stands in 22 degr of Longitude and in 54 degr 57 min. of Latitude Beneath Durham not to omit this there stands eastward a very noble Hospital founded by Hugh * Pudsey an extraordinary rich Bishop and for some time Earl of Northumberland for Lepers and as Newbrigensis has it with great cost and expence yet upon some accounts not very honourable For to advance this charitable design he made use of his power to extort from other men when he was not willing to allow enough of his own to that work However he settled a very good allowance for maintaining sixty five Lepers besides Mass-priests From hence the Were is carry'd in a streighter course towards the north by Finchale Fin hale where in the reign of Henry 2. Godricus a man of ancient and Christian simplicity and wholly intent upon God and Religion led and ended a solitary life and was here buried in the same place where as William of Newburrow says he was wont in a fit of devotion to prostrate himself or to lye down in a fit of sickness This man grew into such admiration for this holy simplicity of his that R. brother to that rich Bishop Hugh Pudsey built a * Ecclesiola Chapel to his memory k Hence the Were runs by Lumley Lumley a castle with a Park quite round it the ancient seat of the Lumleys Barons Lumley who are descended from Liulphus a man of great Nobility in these parts in Edward the Confessor's time who married Aldgitha the daughter of Aldred Earl of Northumberland Of these Marmaduke took his mother's Coat of Arms in whose right he came to the rich inheritance of the Thwengs The Arms were In a field argent a fess Gules between three Poppinjays Vert whereas the Lumleys before that bore for their Arms Six Poppinjays argent in a field Gules For she was the eldest daughter of Marmaduke Thweng Lord of Kilton and coheir to Thomas Thweng her brother But Ralph the son of this Marmaduke was made the first Baron of Lumley by Richard 2. Which honour John the ninth from him enjoys at this day a man of accomplish'd virtue and integrity and now in his old age most honourable for all the ornaments of true nobility Opposite to this and not far from the river on the other side stands Chester upon the street Chester upon the street that is a castle or little city by the highway call'd in Saxon Concester d From an Altar found at Benwall in Northumberland 't is probable the Condercum was there that place being nearer ad Lineam Valli See Northumberland for which reason I have thought it the Condercum Condercum where upon the line of the Vallum the first wing of the Astures kept garrison in the Roman times as the Notitia tells us For it is but some few miles distant from the Vallum of which I shall treat hereafter The Bishops of Lindifarn liv'd retiredly here for 113 years with the body of S. Cuthbert in the time of the Danish wars In memory of which whilst Egelric Bishop of Durham was laying the foundation of a new Church there he digg'd up such a prodigious sum of money 2 Bury'd as 't is thought by the Romans that he left his Bishoprick as being now rich enough and so returning to Peterborough where he was Abbot before he made Causeys through the fens and did several other works not without very great expence Long after this Anthony Bec Bishop of Durham 3 And Patriarch of Jerusal●m founded a Collegiate Church a Deanry and seven Prebends here In this Church Baron Lumley but now mention'd plac'd the monuments of his ancestors all in order as they succeeded one another from Liulphus down to our own times which he had either pick'd up out of the suppress'd Monasteries or made new More inward and in the middle as it were of the triangle stands another small village lately noted for it's College with a Dean and Prebendaries in it founded by