medled with any but the poor and that of the richer fort scarce four hundred were dead This causeth me to speak a word of Father Elzear of Nants a very worthy Person and his Comrade Father Portais both of the Capuchin Order and zealous Missionaries whom this Plague carried away The first was buried out of the City Cairo in a Field where the poor Copies are buried for whose Conversion he was intended To honour the Memory of his Vertues there is an Epitaph in Arab. and Latin upon a little Stone fixed upon his Grave and because I was well acquainted with him in my first Voyage which I made into Egypt by the Orders and Commands of Ernest Duke of Saxa-Gota in the Year 1664. I went to see his Grave and to repeat for the repose of his Soul and as a Testimony of my remembrance and esteem of his rare Qualities the Prayer De profundis A Journy to Gemiane WHen the time was come that the Copties observe the Festival of the Aparitions of the Saints at Gemiane because I had not seen it in my first Voyage I went from Cairo on Monday the 9th of May with a Servant of Monsieur de Tiger named Leonard that could Paint very well with several Copties who came in our Company because they had nothing to discharge the expence of this Journy We went aboard at Boulac and set sail for the Town of Mansoura where we landed the 12th of the same Month. The next day we left Mansoura taking a Boat for Diast a little Village scituate upon the West-side of Niltus for here all Travellers that go to Gemiane from Cairo are wont to land It stands about four hours journying from Mansoura At our landing we left our Boat and went by Land to Bossat inossára a little Mile distant from the River in the Land we spent there the Night and lodg'din the Church of S. George with several other Copties whom we found there who were bound also as well as we for Gemiane The 14th day very early we proceeded on towards the third branch of Nilus which begins as I have already said in the Description of this River at Sciobret il Yemen which it hath pass'd near the Town of Mohelle KebÃre or Great Mohelle and near Gemiane it discharges it self into the Sea at Brullos We march'd on into the Country and when we came to this Branch of the River we found several Boats ready to carry us with the Current to Gemiane where we landed about the Evening not without suffering many crosses and inconveniences because the Master of the Boat an Arabian was a wicked Rogue Gemiane is a famous Church of the Copties built in a large Champain very even and boundless to the Eye but very unfruitful in the Province of Garbie in the Isle of Delta It stands near the place where was anciently the City Degue called by the Copties Tekebi On the West it hath the Great Mohelle on the East the Branch of the River that enters into the Sea at Brullos and on the North the Mediteranean Sea This Church hath five and twenty Arches or Isles that yield at a distance a very beautiful Prospect though they be not in order nor equal in bigness The Church within is not yet finish'd and there is but one Chappel whited with Lime namely that where the supposed Apparition happens there is also but one Altar as in all other Churches of the Levant All the Iles or Arches serve to adorn the Church and to give light to it for in every one there is a Window and in some two The Chappel where the Apparition happens is on the North-side on the right hand as one enters in and over against the Door During three days I examin'd this Apparition and the causes from whence it proceeds as exactly as I could possibly and found it to be nothing else but the reflection of the Objects that went by the Church at a convenient distance which being carried into the Chappel by the Air through the two Windows that give light It represents over against upon the Wall the Shadow which is like the Object that goes by For Example when a Horse-man goes by there is to be seen upon the Wall in a confused manner a Shadow of a Man on Horse-back If it be a Woman that hath a Child in her Arms one may see the Shadow of that appearance and so is it with all other things Now the People being superstitious and of a dull apprehension not knowing how this happens fancy that the Saints appear to them They know and distinguish them according as they are painted in their Churches For Example when they see the Shadow that represents a Cavalier they say that it is S. George for the Copties as well as the other People of the East represent him as a Man on Horse-back killing a Dragon When they see a Woman carrying of an Infant in her Arms they say that it is the blessed Virgin because they see her thus represented in the Pictures of their Churches When they see the Shadow of a Man on foot of a reddish colour they say that it is S. Menna because they paint him with a red Habit. They distinguish the other Saints in the same manner They are so much bewitch'd with the fancy of the reality of these Apparitions that if any Person should offer to deny it he would be in danger to be knock'd on the head It is in vain to answer that the Shadows that appear in this Chappel cannot be formed by the reflection of the Objects because the Windows through which they come in are at the North-side of the Church which never enjoys the Sun-shine and that therefore they be true and real Apparitions To this I reply that it is not needful that the Church be enlighten'd on that side but it is sufficient that the Objects that pass by be enlighten'd Now if the Church had the light of the Sun on that side the brightness of the light would discover too plainly the Shadows and would take away all causes of admiration If any will say that some ingenious Person amongst them hath built this Chappel according to the Rules of the Optick Art to deceive the People with these Apparitions I desire him to take notice that the Copties are so ignorant that they know not what this Art is This Chappel as the other Churches hath been built in this manner without any design to cozen the World therefore this Reflection which they name Apparition of the Saints hath been discover'd by chance Experience hath taught me this in other Churches which have not been builded no more than this to deceive the World with vain Apparitions I have taken notice of it in the Church Bossat inossára where I was on the 13th of the same Month in the company of some Copties that were going to Gemiane There I saw the same Shadows which two days after at Gemiane they called S. George the Virgin Mary and
seen It is nothing but a plain Champain of Sand altogether unfruitful Every Franc is bound to pay at the entrance into Alexandria at the Gate of Rosetta three Para's half to the Beduins or Boemiens and half to the Janissaries because they are there upon the Guard At my first arrival at Alexandria on the 15th of the same Month I went to salute Monsieur Laurens Vice-Consul in this City for the French who exprest a great deal of civility to me and offered me his Table and a Chamber in his House but in regard I was recommended by Monsieur Brousson the Factor of the Levant Company to Monsieur Sabatery his intimate Friend and Factor there and in regard he had a convenient Lodging which he offer'd me to content them both I lodg'd with Monsieur Sabatery and made use of the Vice-Consul's Table all the time I staid at Alexandria I went next to visit an intimate Friend with whom I had an acquaintance in my first Voyage to Egypt he was called Komos Jean Arch-Priest of the Church of S. Mark of the Copties He is an understanding and an honest Man and hath informed me much concerning the affairs of Egypt I understood from the French Merchants of this City that their Fondego hath been built by the Grand Seignior's order for their Lodging and since their establishment in this City the Turkish Emperours were wont to pay to the French Consuls ever Year two hundred Crowns for the Reparations of this House but of late they don't see this Money The cause is not well known On the 16th of this Month I went to a Jews House with an intention to buy of him a curious Hieroglyphick Stone that stands at the Threshold of his Door It is about an Ell and a-half long and about a Foot broad of a Marble colour upon which are graven three lines of Hieroglyphick Letters in very small Characters which are to be read from the left hand to the right This Stone was desired by Monsieur Thevenot who endeavoured to buy it he offered as I was told thirty Piasters to this Jew for it but the other ask'd an hundred All the People of the Levant have this foolish Custome to raise the Price of their Commodities when they see that a Franc desires any thing though it were but a trifle the others desire makes them think it to be unvaluable they prize it therefore at such a rate that none dare meddle with it They are so simple to suffer the Commodity to lie upon their Hands and spoil rather than to sell it to a Franc at the same rate that they would give it to a Man of the Levant Nevertheless I expected that the Jew had chang'd his mind since that time I offer'd him the same Price that this Franc had offer'd before but when I saw that my offer render'd him more proud resolved in his first demand I never troubled him afterwards The Lodgings of the seventy Interpreters who Translated the Hebrew Bible into Greek are yet standing in this City almost entire with the Closets where they performed their Work The Turks have made a Mosque there which they name Giama il garbÃe or the Mosque of the Levant It is to be seen with Money Monsieur Brue chief Interpreter of the French Consul of Cairo hath gone in The 19th of June being Saturday I went to see the Salt-pits of the Grand Seignior which are out of the City near the Calitz or Channel of Cleopatra from whence they have their Fresh-water when the River runs over the Banks and near the Garden of a Moor often visited by the French Merchants which is call'd Gheit il chavagie or the Merchants Garden In these Salt-pits I have taken notice of two things very remarkable First that the Water of Nilus the sweetest Water and the freshest in the World makes a Salt not only whiter than ordinary but very excellent Secondly that this Salt hath the taste of Violets They that have the care of those Salt-pits cause a certain quantity of the River-water to run into the Salt-pits and sour or five days after the Water is turn'd into a Salt the most beautiful to the Eye afterwards they carry it in Baskets to dry in the Sun then it is fit to be sold Salt is also to be made of the Lake Sebaka named by the ancient Latins Palus Mareotis which is at the South-side of this City but its Water is naturally salt and its Salt is bitter when it is made therefore they neglect it This Lake proceeds from the River Nilus when it overflows the Waters there continue because they have no passage out It is not very deep but so large that from one side one cannot well see the other The Copties of Alexandria have in their Church of S. Mark a Picture of the Arch-Angel S. Michael drawn by S. Luke as report goes Monsieur Lucasole Chancellor of the French Nation in this City told me that the Venetians had carried away this Picture some time-since and sail'd with it five times out of the Haven but could not proceed on in their Voyage because they were stopt by an invisible Hand every time that they intended to sail away and could never depart till they had carried back the Picture The report of this Wonder being spread abroad in the City the Beduins or Boemiens as we call them took a resolution secretly to steal it away and sell it to the Francs Accordingly when they had broken open the Doors of the Church and pulled it down from the place where it stood they could not possibly get out with it so that they were also forc'd to put it up again in its place as the Venetians had done before where it remains still I have seen it Monsieur Lucasole told me that this is very true and that he himself was then at Alexandria I have read something concerning the Waters of the Cisterns of Alexandria in the Book of Monsieur de la Ch. that treats of the overflowing of the River Nilus That they become salt about the Months of April and May and that in the Night that the fruitful Dew falls they return to their former sweetness and increase besides with the Waters of the River I shall not offer to deny flatly a thing that may be true and which Monsieur Burattini cited by Monsieur de la Ch. saith hath been observ'd by several Persons But I dare say that in two several Voyages into Egypt and during my long abode at Alexandria in several seasons of the Year though I have observ'd as exactly as I could all things I never heard that the Waters of these Cisterns did become salt or that they did increase with the Waters of the River or that they did recover their former freshness and sweetness I have nevertheless wondred a little to taste them somewhat salt so that they seem not to come from so fresh a River This quality proceeds from the nitrous Earth which may be known by
Indies 4. Miski of the smell of Musk 5. Ascickrihan or the lovely Origanum Leblab is another Plant called by the Italians Convolvolo by the French Liseron and by the English Bengiar are our Beets Mentur otherwise named Chobeize are our Mallows Here are also Gilly-flowers Lillies and Roses of all colours and in abundance Merdekusch is our Marjoram Mersciénné Lisan-hammel is our Plantain Lisant Tor is our Bugloss Neane Mint Bamie and Meluchie are ordinary Pot-herbs in Egypt Amberboy is Amber Seseban is a tall Plant sown about the Sugar-Fields it serves instead of a Fence Sciebeh is Rue of Rome Cheschach is the Pavots Hendal or Colocinthis Helbe named by the French Fenugrec by the English They have a Proverb in Egypt that saith Blessed are the Feet that walk upon that Ground where the Helbe is sown They eat it raw and sodden Carrots called in Arab. Gissr are no bigger than Radishes Succory called in Arab. Hindibe Lettuce called Chas Melieh Pease Tormus are Lupins Bersim or Sinfoin Il Nile is Indigo Scich is Absynthium Ponticum Gabbar was an Herb that I found in abundance upon the Mountains near the Monastery of Abuhennis Homos gebeli are the wild Pease of the Mountains for they are like Pease Roiet gassal or Harts-Foot so called because it is like the Foot of this Animal and both are oily Selguem called by the Germans Rubsamen Zabuz Oats Saffron Simsim or the Sesame Heb-il-sode called Jugeolin Tabacco Rice Sugar Linni Coulangian called in Latin Gulange and in French Galangu Of Birds THE rarest Birds that I have seen in Egypt are these Sciamta is the biggest next to the Austrich It is so strong that some say it can carry up a Man into the Air. Next to these are the Eagles the Vultures named in Arab. Akab which are very big Gaddafs Havams Baz Heddahs Sakers Sciahins Bascieks Rachms all these are several sorts of Vultures Faulcons and Hawks There be also Mezaz and Begas otherwise called Gemel il Bahr or the River-Camel or the Pelican The Saksaks have a Bone strong and sharp at the joint of each Wing The Guinney-Hens Cranes Wild-Geese and many other Birds which are ordinary amongst us There are also many Austriches and chiefly in Desarts that lead to the Monastery of St. Anthony I have seen there Herds together I have read in an Arabian Manuscript called Giauharet innefisse a remarkable thing concerning the Austrich which I cannot pass over without publishing When it intends to Hatch its Egs it sits not upon them as other Birds but the Male and the Female Hatches them with their Eye only and when either of them hath need to seek for Food he gives notice to the other by crying and the other continues to look upon the Egs till it be return'd likewise when the other hath the same desire to seek about for Food he gives the same notice with the same shriek that its Companion might remain still to look upon the Egs till they be all Hatch'd For if they did but look off a moment the Egs would spoil and rot The Church of the Copies hath learn'd an excellent Custome from the Practice of this Bird They hang up a lighted Lamp between two Egs of an Austrich over against the Priests that officiate to advise them to be attentive about their Devotions that their Prayers might be more efficacious and might not lose their strength for want of attention It is now time to bring back my Reader to my Journal to Damietta where I left him that I might give him first a General Description of Egypt The Continuation of the Journal I Set Foot in Diametta the 18th day of Feb. 1672. where I abode till the 8th day of the next Month Sometimes lodging in the City sometimes in the Barque that had brought me because it was loaden with Wine for the Consul and French Merchants of Cairo And the Aga of the City would not suffer the Wine to be carried a-shore nor into the Haven until the Pacha had sent him an express Order to that purpose He dealt in this manner because the Grand Seignior had sent very strict and severe orders to forbid the Importation of Wines in all his Dominions And Because I was in the company of a Servant of the French Consul whom I could not leave with Civility because he could not understand the Arabian Tongue I was therefore ingaged to be his Interpreter by the Obligations that he had laid upon me in my Voyage For his and his Masters sake I abode with him till the orders were come and a Janissary to Guard the Wine to Cairo They loaded therewith two great Barques and we departed immediately for Damietta on Saturday the 8th of April and were at Boulac a Suburb of Cairo the Eve of Wednesday before Easter Here follows the most remarkable Passages and the Description of the Towns and Places which are from the Mouth of the River at Damietta as far as Grand Cairo as they lye in order As soon as we enter into the River from the Sea we find on the East-side at the Mouth an old Castle ruinated but small which as the Francs say was built by S. Lewis the French King when he had Damietta It is square and divided into four round Turrets upon which some Artillery have been planted to command the Passage and where a few Moors are upon the Guard A little further into the River stands a poor Village named Bogas or Mouth of the River because it is there scituated The Arabian word Bogas signifying so much In this Village dwell the Owners of the Germes being Long-Boats made to un-load Ships and draw them out of the Sands that guide and tow along the Ships that sail in or out of the River and discover to them the Banks of Sand which are very ordinary in this Road. In this Village is to be seen the Foundation of another square Fort the Walls whereof are not yet finish'd and never likely to be There are also here two Calitz or Artificial Channels full of the River-water all the year made on purpose to water the Fields About an hundred Paces from this Village on the other side is another Castle to command the Mouth so that the two Castles that are there planted for this purpose are not over against one another A Description of the City of Damietta DAmietta called by the Arabians Damiát a famous City of Egypt is scituate upon the East-side of Nilus about eight Miles from the Mouth Next to Cairo it is the greatest most beautiful the richest the most populous and the fullest of Merchants of all Egypt for the conveniency of Trade draws thither a great number of People form all parts of Turkie It is built upon the River Nilus in the form of an half Moon The Waves of this River that wash the Foundations of their Houses on that side and the great number of beautiful Mosques together with the Fleet of Ships and Barques that ride in
Damietta and entred into the Bogas or Channel of Boulac The clear Weather gave me the liberty to take notice of the separation of the two Branches of the River I found that the Branch that goes to Rosetta stretches it self to the North-East and that of Diametta to the North. In respect of this last Cairo stands to the South-East and its Castle to the South At this Bogas the two great Pyramides of Egypt are first discover'd They appear here to be equal though one is far higher than the other From this separation or division of Nilus as far as Boulac there is but an hour and a halfs travelling though Monsieur Thevenot tells us of six Leagues We landed at Boulac the Wednesday before Easter at Night I staid there till the next Morning and entred into Cairo about Noon At my entrance I paid a Crown at the Custome-house of Boulac which is an ordinary Tribute demanded of all Francs many years ago A Description of the City of Cairo MY design at first was to publish a large Description of all the Rarities of this great and famous City before I proceed on in my Journal But since I have considered that great Volumes are wont to nauseate rather than to delight the Reader chiefly in these days that Men are pleas'd with the reading of short and small Volumes I have therefore taken notice of those things only which other Travellers have omitted and could never know perfectly for want of an insight into the Arabian Tongue He that will know more may peruse the second Part of the Chottats of Macrizi The City of Cairo borrows the Name from the Planet Mars called by the Arabians Kaher which Name was given to it as saith the Serrúr an Arabian Historian because the Foundation of its Walls were laid when this Planet was in its ascent which hapned unhappily in this manner Giauher the General of Meez le dÃn allá one of the Cailiffs of Egypt having resolved to build a new City for the abode of his Lord in the Year 362 of the Hegira he gave orders to the Astronomers to observe the time of the rising of a good Star when the Foundation might be laid that the City might be the more happy and of a longer continuance The Astronomers accordingly encompassed about with Ropes all that space of Ground that was to be shut into the Walls tying to the Ropes a great many little Bells to give notice to the Builders when they were to cast the Foundation The signal was the sounding of the Bells which was to be given when they saw the rising of a good Star By chance it happen'd that a Crow pitch'd upon the Ropes that was stretch'd along when Mars was in its rising and with the motion of the Ropes caused the Bells to sound As soon as the Masons heard the signal given they cast all with one consent the Foundation which when the Astronomers had understood they declar'd by unlucky rising of Mars that govern'd at that Instant that the City should be one day taken by a Conqueror that should come out of Romania where Mars governs Which hath proved true about five hundred and threescore years after when Sultan Selim came from Constantinople the chief City of Romania and took not only the City but the whole Country and destroyed the Race of their Kings by hanging the last Though they conceived that this Star would prove unlucky they called the City nevertheless Kahera or Cairo as we name it in Europe which Name continues till this day This City is become very rich powerful and great by its Trade insomuch that of all the Cities of the Levant this alone hath deserv'd the name of Great It is scituate in a Champain very delightful at the Foot of a Mountain of Sand named in Arab. Gebel il mokattam or the Mountain cut through which stands on the East-side and incommodes the City because it deprives it of the benefit of the fresh Winds that blow from thence This City hath another inconveniency it is far from the River There is nothing in the World more delightful than to take a prospect of it from some eminent place for you might from thence view an infinite number of Houses which instead of Coverings have Turrets and see an innumerable company of Mosques with their various colours of differing Buildings intermingled and surrounded with Palm-trees and Gardens all which together represents a most beautiful Prospect It hath seven Gates The Names are 1. Bab zucile 2. Bab innassr 3. Bab il fetúb 4. Bab il Kántara 5. Bab isscia a rÃe 6. Bab issaade 7. Bab il mahrúk There are eight Lakes very large that belong to it 1. Birket ittemálgie 2. Birket inassrÃe 3. Birket ibn il ademe 4. Birket il fil 5. Birket il kar-a 6. Birket il ferrain 7. Birket il Ezbekie and 8. Birket il kassarin There is a Channel cut through this City from the West to the North-East called the Calitz of Cairo It is very ancient Ibn abd il hokm an Arabian Historian saith That Tarsis ibn Malia one of the Pharaoh's and as he believes the King that took the Wife of Abraham when he was in Egypt caused it first to be cut Since the Arabians conquer'd Egypt and took it from the Emperour Heraclius they have named it Calitz Emir il Muminin or The Channel of the Prince of the faithful because of Amru ibn Chottab the second Califf after Mahomet who was the first sirnamed The Prince of the faithful because he commanded Amru ibn ass to lead him as far as Colzim a Town scituate near the Red-Sea that he might convey the Provisions of Cairo as far as this City and from thence by the Red-Sea to Mecha where there was at that time a great want of Food It continued in this manner till the Year 150 of the Hegira when Ciafer il Mansur a Califf of Egypt of the Race of Abbas caused it to be stopt on that side which is towards the Sea Now it is called Calitz il Hakemi or the Calitz of Hakem because Hakem-be amr ille another Califf of Egypt caused this Channel which was decayed through the negligence of his Predecessors to be repaired It is called also Merachemi or the Calitz paved with Marble as we may see by some Passages of the Serrúr an Arabian History which I have brought with me from Egypt In my Relation of Egypt Printed in Italian at Paris 1671. I said that the Turks Copties and Jews open in their turns this Channel every Year but I understand since that this Office belongs only to the Soubaschi of Cairo who strikes the first three or four blows upon the Bank that hinders the River from entring into the Channel afterwards all that will work have liberty granted The Copies have but two Churches at Cairo one in the Street named Haret Zuele and the other in the Greek's Street The first is Dedicated to the Virgin Mary and was built by
City alone with the Janissary to see where the River Nilus goes into the Channel which answers to the Cisterns of Alexandria which I shall describe hereafter When I had fully viewed that which I desired I returned into the Town to my company that waited for me in the shade and all together we walk'd to the Tower of the Indians so called because of late there lodges some Indian Pilgrims We went into it and found its make very admirable We went next to the Tower of the old Custom-house or Douane so nam'd because when the Sea came to the Walls of the City on that side the Store-houses of the Customs were there But since the Sea is gone from thence the Gate is shut and the Custom-house is establish'd and settled in another place This Tower is very big supported within with four ranks of Pillars of red Stone Here are many Rooms fit for stores for lodgings and to put Salt in though much of it is now ruinated This was the last Tower that we saw in our Walk which continued four hours reckoning the time that we spent in viewing the Walls and climbing up to the Towers I return at present to the Channel by which the Cisterns are furnish'd with Water It is out of the Gate of Rosetta about six Foot high vaulted in the inside about a quarter of a Mile from the City It joins to the Calitz of Cleopatra that furnishes it with Water from the River Nilus from thence the Water runs to the Walls where it meets with another Conduit not fat from this Gate which Conduit or Channel is made so ingeniously that it furnishes all the Cisterns of the City with Water We must also take notice that though the Mouth of this Channel is as high as the rest almost the two thirds are wall'd from the top to the bottom so that there remains but a small hole where the Waters of the Calitz flow in as through a Window And because they are very salt the first three days and they would fill the Cisterns with slime and filth if the Water did enter in at that time freely To prevent this inconveniency they that have the care of the Water stop this hole and leave it so three days which being ended they go to the entry of the Channel followed by a crowd of People to unstop the hole and let in the Water to fill the Cisterns This day is a day of great rejoicing all over the City The City of Alexandria hath six Gates three are open namely that towards the South called Bab issidr that which is at the East named Bab irrascîd or the Gate of Rosetta that which looks to the North-East and is named the Sea-Gate The three Gates that are shut are that of the old Custom-house the green Gate called by the Arabs Bab il achdar and that of the old Haven I cannot positively affirm whether the Walls and the Gates that are now there be those that Alexander the Great caus'd to be builded or whether the Califfs have made them I imagin that the Califfs have erected them and not Alexander though many Travellers are of a contrary opinion Because there is no Greek Inscriptions to be seen but all Arab. Some are written in strange Characters others in the ordinary Arabian Character These Inscriptions speak of the Califf and Year when they were builded or re-edified The Gates being high where these Inscriptions were graven and the Letters artificially put with other works I could not distinguish nor read them 2. The manner of their building proves this truth for they are builded as the Gates of Cairo which were the work of the Califfs who have been there many Ages after Alexander the Great There are two Havens in Alexandria the one called the old Haven where Ships enter in with the Westerly Wind but now it is of no use but to secure the Vessels that sail from the East towards the West when the bad Weather obliges them to seek for shelter The other is called the new Haven there all the Ships arrive and where they now cast Anchor The Trade of the French Merchants in this City is the greatest that they have in all the Eastern Parts for there is no place in Turkie where so many French Ships come as into this Haven from the beginning of the Year 1672 to the Month of June there was no less than nineteen French Ships that came hither and in the Month of June I reckoned fourteen This is a considerable number but not to be compar'd with the number of Vessels that frequented this Haven heretofore For Monsieur Lucasole that did the Office of Chancellor of the French Nation told me that he remembers that there have been at Alexandria in one Year ninety-four French Ships Seeing that I am speaking of the French Trade in Egypt I shall for the satisfaction of the Merchants give here an exact account of all the Commodities that are carried from Egypt into Europe whether it be by the way of Marseilles or by that of Legorn or by Venice with their ordinary Price in the Year 1673. The Commodities that are ordinarily carried out of Egypt into Europe are Gums As of Benjoin whereof 110 Rotols cost 75 Piasters Bdellion whereof the Quintal costs 50 Piasters Arabic whereof 133 1. third of the Rotols of Cairo cost 6 Abukelbs Adragant whereof the Quintal of 110 Rotols costs 10 Piasters Lack whereof the Quintal of 110 Rotols costs 15 Piasters Turick whereof 130 Rotols cost 9 Abukelbs Myrrh of Ethiopia whereof 110 Rotols cost 40 Piasters Frankincense in tears whereof 110 Rotols cost 12 Piasters Storax Juices As Aloe Cicotrin whereof the Quintal costs 8 Piasters Called Epatick whereof 150 Rotols cost 28 Piasters Opium whereof the Quintal of 110 Rotols costs 120 Piasters Indigo named Serquis whereof 130 Rotols cost 70 Piasters Indigo of Bagdat is worth nothing Indigo of Balluder is likewise worth nothing Cassanad whereof the Quintal costs 5 Piasters Sugars in great Loaves whereof the Quintal costs 16 Piasters and a half In little Loaves whereof the Quintal costs 16 Piasters Sugar-candy costs 28 Piasters Sugar-soltani costs 28 Piasters Sorbet whereof the Quintal costs 20 Piasters Wood. As Sandal-wood costs 33 Piasters Citron-wood costs 25 Piasters Turbit-wood costs 30 Piasters Ebene-wood costs 41 Piasters Brasil-wood costs 28 Piasters Rinds of Trees As Cinamon of Conchi whereof 150 Rotols cost 60 Piasters Of Malabari cost 25 Piasters Of Zeilani cost 100 Piasters Fruits and Seeds As Cassia costs 20 Piasters Coco of Levant whereof 133 and one third Rotols cost 23 Piasters Coriander-seed whereof the Quintal costs 3 Piasters Coffee whereof the Quintal costs 25 Piasters Dates whereof the Quintal costs 3 Piasters Mirabolans Kebus whereof 150 Rotols cost 20 Piasters Sirnamed Balludri cost 23 Piasters Sirnamed Citrin cost 6 Piasters but are worth nothing Nutmegs whereof 110 Rotols cost 200 Abukelbs Nuts to vomit whereof 110 Rotols cost 7 Piasters Cardamum whereof the Quintal of 139 Rotols
foot of this Mountain In this place our Bark ran in the Sand and when the Boat-men were not able to free her the Janissaries that were with us forced all the other Travellers and Christians with Cudgels to leap over into the water to help them As soon as it was freed we proceeded on in our way and we began to discover the Caves of the Mountain which are at the East of Nilus and a little after the Mount of Birds called in Arabick Gebel Teir which is so equal from the top to the bottom about half a mile that it looks like a strait Wall built by hand rather than a Rock made thus by Nature which is a very delightful sight to Travellers The water of Nilus washes a great deal of it On the top of this Mountain is the Monastery of the Copties called Deir il baccur and a little further several Caves and the ruines if an Ancient Town Tuesday night we were in sight of Minie but our Vessel ran a-ground once more in the Banks of Sand so that the Boat-men could not free it before night and there it stopt till next day Wednesday in the morning whiles our Boat-men were busie in freeing the Boat I went to see the City of Minie scituate on the West of Nilus belonging to the Cascieflik of Behnese I went also into the Mosques without fear because I was cloathed in a Turkish Habit. When our Boat-men had freed the Bark they drew her up to Minie for we sail'd upwards there I went on board to go towards Melave About an hours sailing from Minie we began to discover on the top of the Mountain which lies at the East the Caves This in my judgment is the beginning of the Country of Thebes They are to be seen along the Mountain as far as Momfallot I counted four and thirty in a rank but the Mouths of the Caves were stopped up with Earth that was fallen in The same day about three a Clock in the Afternoon we pass'd by the Ruines of the Ancient City Insine leaving it at our left hand and at night we went to lie before Melave We sailed away on Thursday morning the second of March and we saw in our way many Caves in the Mountain which is at the East At Noon we left the great Channel of Nilus because there was but little water and we enter'd into one of its Branches which makes an Island by meeting again with the great Stream We pass'd before the Mouth of the River of Joseph of which I have spoken sufficiently in the description of Fium Friday morning the third day of the month we landed at Momfallot where I lodged in an House called Ocalet Emir Otman or the dwelling of Prince Otman which is in the Market-place It is an old dwelling much decayed and though there is another more beautiful and more commodious I would not lodge in it that I might not suffer the affronts of the Jamssaries and Spahins who lodg'd there and who would have insulted over me had they known me to be a Franc. Momfallot the abode of the Cascief of the Province is a very great and beautiful Town of Egypt scituate upon the banks of Nilus on the West-side in the middle Egypt There is made much Linen-cloth A great many Christian Copties live here but they have no Church The name of this Town signifies in Arabick the Exile of Lot because a certain Lot was banish'd thither by his Brother an ancient King of Egypt as the Copties say Over against on the other side of Nilus are the signs of an ancient Town I could never understand the name From Cairo to Benesuef there are two days journeys by Land and by water sometimes more sometimes less according to the wind from Benesuef to Minie are three days journeys by Land from Minie to Melave is a little days journey from Melave to Momfallot is a little more than a days journey chiefly when the Horse is not good and from Momfallot one may go and dine at Siut if one takes the morning In the Province of Momfallot they reckon one and fifty Towns six and thirty at the West side of Nilus and fifteen at the East which agrees not with the Relation of James Albert of Egypt who reckons up two hundred and seventeen In this he is mistaken Here are one and twenty Churches or Monasteries eleven at the West-side of Nilus namely Moharrak with that of the Abyssins near by The Church of the Angel Gabriel at Buk That of S. Theodore at Timsahte That of S. George at Ballot That of the Arch-Angel Raphael at Tetelie That of S. Philothea at Nemire That of the Arch-Angels Gabriel and Raphael at Benekelb That of S. Mercurius at Gauli That of the holy Virgin at Meessera That of S. John of Heraclea at Om il Kossur There are twelve at the East-side of Nilus namely the Church of S. Theodore Martyr S. John's Son at Bossra The Monastery of S. Menna sirnamed Thoumatourgos at The Church of the holy Virgin at and another at Maabde The Church of Mary Poctor at Gebravi another of the same Saint at Fadda That of the blessed Virgin at Bene mohammed That of S. George at Bene morr and three that are at Ibnub il hammam namely the Monastery of the blessed Virgin the Church of S. John the Baptist and that of Abufam il ghindi The 7th day of this Month I went about seven a Clock in the morning for Siut where I arrived about noon These are the Villages in the way 1. Mandara where several Ruines remain that bespeak it to have been a great Town 2. Hantaca 3. Gauli where are to be seen some ancient Ruines and an old Bridge to give passage to the River Nilus when it overflows the Country 4. Negghe where the Caravan commonly rests that comes from Dungala when it goes towards Cairo 5. Benehsein and a little further Coum Benehsein where is to be seen the Tomb of one called Sciech Iscander 6. Mongabat that new which is a very good Town at the West of Nilus and at the foot of the Mountain hard by old Mongabat but now ruinated At last we came to Siut which lies South-South-East from Momfallot When I was arrived at Siut I took two Chambers in the House called Occalet il hammam or the Bathing-house so named because it is over against a Publick Bathe and though it be but little it is pleasant and commodious A few days after I craved acquaintance with the Bishop of the City called Amba Joannes he is a very honest Man of a good life He made me know a certain Coptie named Muallim Athanasius the only Man of all the upper Egypt that understood his natural Tongue that is the Copties but I could not benefit my self much by him because he was deaf and about fourscore years of age nevertheless I had the satisfaction to behold that Man with whom the Copties Language will be utterly loft Siut called in
THE PRESENT STATE OF EGYPT Or A new RELATION OF A LATE VOYAGE INTO THAT KINGDOM Performed in the Years 1672. and 1673. By F. VANSLEB R. D. Wherein you have an exact and true Account of many Rare and Wonderful Particulars of that Ancient Kingdom Englished by M. D. B. D. LONDON Printed by R. E. for John Starkey at the Miter in Fleet-street near Temple-Bar 1678. TO THE READER Ingenuous Reader TO thee alone I recommend the perusal of this Journal which not only my self but some other judicious Persons have thought worthy to appear in our Tongue and amongst the Curioso's of our Nation The Author is well known to be a Man of Integrity and one that scorns to impose upon the World an untruth of which in this occasion nothing can tempt him to be guilty If therefore some Particulars look with a strange and unprobable Countenance be not so unsociable in thy perswasion as to reject whatsoever thou hast no demonstration to prove A ridiculous Humour and a pernicious Rule which tends to deprive us of the benefit of many Knowledges both in Divine and Humane Matters It is unlikely that such a Person of discretion and interest in the World as he is known to be should so much forget his reason as to subscribe his Name to such falshoods as may be easily discovered at Rome in the place of his ordinary abode I confess some Observations are trivial and ordinary but others will prove satisfactory to such worthy Souls as desire to know the passages of the World and Foreign Nations This Country of Egypt hath heretofore been the richest Magazin of Learning as well as of Provisions It hath flourished in all Manual Arts and the rarest Sciences No doubt but that there are yet to be seen some Monuments of the Primitive Grandeur and Learning of the ancient Inhabitants As therefore Vanslebius hath judg'd them worthy to be visited in his Travels and afterwards of this account which he gives in Print I think them not unworthy of thy knowledge which thou mayest perhaps improve in the interpretation of some obscure passages of holy Writ and for other purposes according to thy Profession Vale M. D. THE PRESENT STATE OF EGYPT OR A New Relation or Journal of the Travels of Father Vansleb through Egypt IN the Year 1671. about the 8th of May I was at Marseilles with an intention to sail again into Egypt for that purpose I found an opportunity the Ship the Three Kings Commanded by an Aged Captain named Artaut was ready to depart for Alexandretta I went aboard and set sail from the Port the 20th of the same Month strait towards Malta where we remained five days and after directed our Course to Lernica in the Island of Cyprus where the French Merchants make their abode on the Sea-side looking towards the South we arrived the 17th of June As soon as I set foot ashore I fell desperately sick of an ordinary Disease to all Strangers proceeding from the Infection of the Air that is an Enemy to them But my Distemper could not hinder me from going to Nicosia the chief City of the Island When I felt my Malady increasing every day and the rather through the dangerous Infection of the Plague which was then in the Island I resolved to be carried to Tripoli in Syria the nearest and most convenient Port where the French Nation hath a Consul Whilest I was at Nicosia Captain Artaut was departed with his Ship for Alexandretta and the 26th of June I went aboard another Ship in the Haven of Lernica and the next day with a favourable Wind we landed at Tripoli Though I had forsaken the infectious Island the disease of my body forsook me not but grew to that pass that I prepar'd my self as Christianity injoyns us to leave the World Nevertheless at the end of 35 days my distemper being weary to torment me suffer'd me to recover a little strength and though I was but weak I went aboard a Ship bound for Alepo the first of Septemb. arriv'd the 13th and abode there four Months About the last of Decemb. I went to Damascus where I remain'd a Month and from thence to Seyda where I was also two Months My purpose is not to give any account of the Curiosities of Lernica of Nicosia of Tripoli of Alepo of Damascus and of Seyda These Towns are sufficiently known to all the World by the many Relations already published of the Levant Countries Besides the shortness of the time of my abode there together with the inconveniency of a Quartan Feaver which kept me company sixteen Months suffered me not to inquire into any such matters I shall therefore in this Treatise give an account only of what Curiosities I have seen in Egypt where during the space of twenty Months I have had the leisure and opportunities to take a view of the most remarkable things with the greatest exactness and care imaginable which hath never been done of this famous and beautiful Country till now The 19th day of February 1672. I took Ship at Seyda a Town of Phoenicia to sail for Damietta in Egypt but a contrary Wind rose and brought us back to Seyda again where we remain'd till the 16th of March I went then aboard and met with a favourable Gale that drove us very happily to Bogas which lies at the Mouth of the River Nilus I think it convenient before we proceed to give a general account and description of Egypt that the things that I shall hereafter mention may better be understood A General Description of Egypt C Ham one of the three Sons of Noah had four Children Males Cus Misraim named by the Arabs Beidar Fut and Canaan Cus was the Father of the Abyssins Misraim of the Copties and Nubians Fut of the Africans and Canaan of the Syrians and their Neighbours Misraim after the Deluge as Macrisi an Arabian Historian saith pitcht upon Egypt made there his abode and left it and the Country as far as the farthest part of Africa to his Posterity He had likewise four Sons Ischemun Atrib Sá and Coptus unto whom he divided the Land of Egypt in four equal parts Coptus had all that tract of Land from Isvan to the City of Coptus to Ischemun he allotted the Country from that City to Menuf to Atrib he gave the Heart and middle of Egypt now called Delta and to Sá he appointed all the Continent from the Province of Beheire as far as Barbary They all builded Cities in their several Dominions calling them by their own Names We shall mention them in the sequel of this Discourse After the decease of their Father the four Brothers were at variance about the Soveraignty neither of them could endure a Partner At last they resolved to end their Controversies by a Battle which was to give the chief Command to the Victor Coptus the youngest overcame all the rest of his Brethren and was acknowledg'd by them as their Chief Lord. He chose the City
of Menuf or Memphis where his Father lived as his Royal Seat From this King Coptus all the Race of the Egyptians are now called Copties Likewise from this first King the Greeks have given the name of 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 to the Land of Egypt by changing the K into G which is the custom not only of this Language but also of the Arabian as may appear by the words Nekkade and Dunkala written in Arabian with a K and nevertheless they are pronounced in discourse Neggade and Dungala as if they were written with a G. They are the names of two Towns the one in the Upper Egypt and the other in Nubia The Moors and Copties Natural Inhabitants of the Country call it Massr from Misraim the Son of Cham and the Grand-child of Noah who first laid the Foundations of it after the Deluge And from the same Misraim the Turks have named it Missir and the Jews Eretz Misraim the Country of Misraim Egypt is scituate in Africa according to the common and ordinary Opinion nevertheless some of the Ancient Geographers have placed it part in Africa and part in Asia making the River Nilus as the Bounds between these two great parts of the World Egypt is bounded on the South with Nubia and the last City of Egypt is Isvan called by the Europeans Siene which is commanded by the Bay of Girge on the West it hath the Provinces of Vah and Barca and on the East are the Desarts that divide it from Palestina and on the North is part of the Mediterranean Sea It stretcheth it self in length from the City of Isvan to the Mouth of the River Nilus at Rosetta in a streight line that is from South to North about five hundred and threescore miles it is not possible to declare it precisely because they are not wont to measure the Country by Miles or by Leagues but by the Camels Journeys only I say here nothing but according to the Relation of the Authors that have examin'd it It is divided according to the accounts of the Divan or Treasury into three parts 1. Into Said or the Upper Egypt which begins at Sint and extends as far as Isvan 2. Into Vostani or the middle Egypt in respect of the Said and Cairo And 3. Into Bahri or Inferiour Egypt The middle begins at Gize a Village over against Boulac and reaches as far as Momfallon and the lower commenceth at Cairo and includes Alexandria and Damietta The Upper Egypt or that part of it which is habitable and useful is very narrow In the widest part a Horse in four hours may pass over it in some places it is not above three hours riding and the Country in both sides is wild sandy and hilly I cannot give an exact account of its wideness in the middle but yet I am perswaded it is not much larger nor wider than the higher part for being scituated between both Egypt begins to grow wider about Cairo it must needs follow that the middle is not much wider than the upper part unless it be about the Cascieflik of Fiúm where Egypt in the middle begins to be wider but yet I cannot give any exact account of it The Inferiour part is wider The Inhabitants reckon about 70 miles from Damietta to Alexandria the most Western-Town upon the Sea-Coast A Learned Person of this Age in a discourse concerning the causes of the Inundation of Nilus hath very well proved against the Ancient Philosophers that the lower Egypt hath always been and is not a new gift of Nilus He grounds his Opinion first upon Homerus who mentions the old City of Canopus which was at one of the chief entrances into Nilus from the Sea Secondly upon the testimony of Moses and David Ps 77. who have mentioned the City of Tanis where was Pharaoh's Court and where God performed great Wonders Egypt was always governed by Kings but the Royal Seats have not always continued the same for the Conquerours have altered them according to their pleasure The first Royal City as Macrisi saith was Amsus but the Waters of the Deluge having ruined it the Posterity of Noah built Menuf or Memphis which was the Seat of the Ancient Kings of the Race of Coptus till Nabuchodonozor had sack'd it When Alexander the Great had built Alexandria he made it the Principal City where all the succeeding Kings of the Greeks made their Residence for nine hundred years till the Arabians had taken Egypt and made Fostat Metropolis But when Giauher the General of Meez le Din-alla had built Cairo about the year of the Hegeira 362. he called it Dar il Memleke that is the Royal Seat which it hath been ever since Egypt hath been govern'd by three several sorts of Mahumetan Princes since the Arabians took it from the Greeks The first were named Omara Massr or Lords of Egypt without any other Title They were all Arabians and Successors of Amru ibn il Ass who was the first Conquerour and after to Abu il Fevares the last of that Race We reckon one hundred and twelve Princes of Egypt during the space of 337 Years seven Months and twenty Days Their Conquest happen'd about twenty years after the Hegeira and ended in the year 358. They all dwelt at Fostat Masser or thereabouts The second Race of the Arabians were called Caliphs They began to take that Title when General Abuhassein Giauher had built Cairo by the Order of Meez le Din-alba who was then Prince of Barbary and Conquer'd Egypt and took it from the Arabians Egypt was afterwards govern'd by its Caliphs about 108 Years 4 Months and 22 Days that is to the death of Adet le Din-alla who was the last and Eleventh Caliph The third sort named Sultans or Soldans succeeded immediately after of them there have been of four Nations The first who was the Posterity of a certain Eijub were called Sultans Curdes The second came from beyond the Seas were named Mamaluk Turks because they had been before Slaves and sold by the Merchants of Constantinople to the Kings of Egypt who caused them to be brought up and instructed in all Martial Discipline When the King was dead one of these Slaves was chosen to succeed in the Throne The third sort were stiled Mamaluks Circassians because they came originally from Circassia and were brought thither by the Merchants as the former and sold also as Slaves to the Kings of Egypt who caused them to be also train'd up as the former unto whom they succeeded in the Regal Dignity and Command The fourth sort who are now in possession are the Sultans of the Race of Ottoman who overcame the Circassian Sultans in the year 922. of the Hegeira for Sultan Selim Conquer'd this Kingdom in the year 1517. Egypt is inhabited at present by Copties Moors Arabians Turks Greeks Jews and Franks and other strange Nations but as they are not numerous they deserve not to be mentioned The Copties or Copts are the Natural
there is no heed to be taken of their words nor of their Oaths In a word they are very proper to be imployed in all evil actions my Conversation with men of that Nation of all sorts hath caused me to discover them to the bottom The Women of the Country are usually of a low stature of a brown Complexion all their Beauty consists in a lively eye their discourses are troublesome and their cloathing is not handsom The Wives of the better sort brought from other parts of Turkie are better bred and more pleasing in all respects Of the River Nilus THe discovery of the Springs of Nilus which hath caused so many Disputes amongst the Ancient Philosophers and for which some great Persons were at vast expences without any success seems to have been left to the Portugueses who have found them out in our Age. Father Telles a Jesuite saith in his History of Ethiopia printed at Lisbon That in the Kingdom of Gojam which is about 12 Degrees from the Equinoctial towards the West and in the Province of Sacahala inhabited by the Agaus in a Field of no great extent incompassed about with many high Mountains there is a little Lake over which one may cast a stone full of Bushes and low Trees whereof the Roots are so thick and intangled that in Summer one may walk upon them In the middle of this Lake are two great and deep Fountains very near together from hence issues out a clear water that runs under these Bushes and low Trees in two several Channels towards the East and about the distance of a Musket-shot they turn to the North about half a mile from thence there appears a great deal of water and a considerable River into which runs many other streams and about 15 miles from thence it receives another bigger water called Gema which loseth then its name a little farther turning towards the East it receives also two other considerable streams called Kelti and Branti near this place is the first fall of the River Not much farther in running towards the East it enters into the Lake of the Abyssins named Bahr Dembea or the Sea of Dembea when it is past through without mingling its waters with the waters of the Lake it receives many other Rivers very great and namely the River Tekeze near Egypt As soon as Nilus is out of the Lake Dembea it turns to the South-East leaving at the left hand the Kingdoms of Beg-amidr of Amhara of Voleca afterwards running to the South it hath upon the South-East the Kingdom of Sauva afterwards turning again to the East-North-East it hath on the South side Ganz Gafata and Bizamo and passeth through the Countries of Gonga and Gafre and a little farther by Fascalo then it enters into the Country of Funch or Nubia and from thence runs into Egypt as Father Telles affirms We must consider besides that when Nilus is fallen down the last Cataract near Isvan it runs from the South to the North very slowly and divides it self below Boulac into two great Branches the one meets the Sea at Rosetta and the other at Damietta This latter divides it self into another Current at Sciobret il yemen a Village scituate on the West-side of Nilus about half-way between Cairo and Damietta which runs into the Sea at Brullos Besides these three branches there is a fourth which is artificial and full of water but about thirty days of the year it begins at a Village called Latf on the West-side of Nilus in going to Rosetta about thirty miles from Alexandria where the waters of this Current run into the Sea therefore the Egyptians reckon it amongst the true Mouths of the River Nilus I know not whether besides these four there be any other as Herodotus and Strabo affirm for they reckon about seven But Egypt is much alter'd so that there is no appearance nor remembrance of the seven Cities where they were as they say When I was at Rosetta I enquir'd from the Inhabitants concerning this particular but they could not give me any account but only of these four Some told me that besides the great Current at Damietta there was another artificial Channel at Gaza where the waters did run into the Sea but I cannot believe it but if this were true Gaza is not in Egypt therefore it cannot be one of the seven Mouths of the River Nilus spoken of by the Ancient Geographers I could wish that some other curious Traveller would enquire them out and tell us the truth This is remarkable of Nilus 1. That it begins to increase and decrease on a certain day precisely 2. That when it first increaseth it grows green 3. That afterwards it appears red and 4. That it changeth its Channel sometimes The day in which it begins to increase is yearly the 12th of June of the Copties or the 17th day of our June on which day they observe the Feast of S. Michael the Arch-Angel on which day the drops fall Now these drops are nothing else according to the judgment of the Inhabitants but the Mercies and Blessings of God They believe on that day God sends the Arch-Angel S. Michael to cause the River to be fruitful This is the common Opinion of the people But the Learned say that these drops is a kind of a Dew which falls towards the last quarter of the night near the morning and which causeth the River to be fruitful purifies the Air from all the infection of Cumsin and gives strength and vertue to all things upon which it falls These drops are doubtless the only cause of the fruitfulness of Nilus this is easily seen for as soon as this Dew is fallen the water begins to be corrupt and to be of a greenish colour this colour increaseth more and more till the River appears as a Lake cover'd all over with Moss This colour is to be seen not only in its great Channel but also in all the Ponds and Branches that come from thence only the Cisterns keep the water pure Some years this green colour continues about 20 days and sometimes more but never above 40. The Egyptians call this time when the River is green il chad raviat for they suffer much because the water is corrupt without taste and unwholesome and that good water is very rare These drops or Dew purifies the Air for as soon as it falls the Plague ceaseth to be mortal none dies of it the Air is wholesome all Distempers cease and if any person grows sick he never dies This Dew gives life to every thing and when it falls upon the Wheat it causeth it to continue many years without corruption or worms and is far more nourishing than that Corn upon which it never falls For this cause they never house the Corn of the Grand Seignior in the Barns till this Dew is fallen upon it that it might keep the longer without worms The increase of the River proceeds from several causes the first and the
their Actions let them read the Arabian Historian named before which is very exact Of the Sangiac-Beys of Egypt IN Egypt as well as in other Countries subject to the Grand Seignior there are several Sangiac-Beys who be Governors of great Provinces They are so called in the Turkish Tongue from two words Sangiac which signifies an Ensign and Bey a Prince because when the Grand Vizier or the Pacha makes them he delivers into their hands an Ensign as a mark of their Dignity They that may pretend to this Dignity are the Agas of the Boulouks the Chieftains of the seven Orders of the Militia of Cairo and the Metferracas The greatest part of these Lords are MeltesimÃns or Farmers of the Provinces that they hold from the Divan at the rates mentioned in the Rolls heretofore some Beys have Farmed fourscore Villages or Towns They Lett these Villages to under Farmers and the usual Rent of every Town is known to every one chiefly to the MebascicrÃns or Scrivners of the Copties About twenty years ago this honour was purchas'd with the expence of twenty Purses or thirty This was called Chidmet il Sangiakie And as soon as any Person was made Bey the Divan did allow him half a Purse every Month as his Sallary and when he travell'd to any Place for the service of the Grand Seignior at his return to Cairo the Divan did give him half a Purse more for his Reward In that time these Beys wore in great Credit and Power for when they declar'd their opinion in the Divan the Pacha's were afraid to contradict them They did sometimes depose them when they did not amend their manners after a reproof They were wont to be six and thirty in Number But now they are a great deal less and are reduc'd to that condition that they are not much esteem'd This Honour now costs them fifteen Purses and their Allowance given to them by the Divan is one thousand Aspers every day So Aspers is 4 s. 6 d. Their Office is to Conduct the Hazna or Treasure of the Grand Seignior to Constantinople or to Command the Caravan that travels towards Mecha and to go to War when required Four of them are to watch always round about Cairo with a Company of Janissaries The first keeps Guard at AdelÃa where the way leads to Sues the second at Caraffa another at the second Bridge of the Calitz near its Mouth another watches at the old Cairo to prevent Tumults and Murders In the Year 1672 when I was at Cairo there were sixteen Beys here be their Names Sulfucar was Bey of Girge but he was cashier'd in the Month of September in this Year Jezbee was made Bey of Carge in his stead Mohammed Abu Sciaváreb or Mahomet with the great Whiskers Mohammed Abu-Gura Gazem Bey of Sues Juseph of Constantinople who was Emir-hag or Commander of the Caravan to Mecha Juseph of Cairo Delaver who carried the Grand Seignior's Treasure to Constantinople Mohammed il ghindi who had Rented Bébe Ali. Omar Hussein of Constantinople Canzo who was Serdar or Colonel Torna Mustapha the Cascief of Dekahlie Eivaz who had been Treasurer of Egypt Abdolla who was Treasurer this Year 1672 of all Egypt Of the Trees Plants and Birds of Egypt I Shall now speak something of the rarest Trees Plants and Birds of Egypt which are come to my knowledge for this belongs to the General Description of this Country I shall afterwards return to my Journal Of the Trees IN Egypt are to be found several Trees very rare which are not in Europe Lebaca is one which as the Copties Stories relate worshipped our Saviour Christ when he came first to Ischemunein a City scituate in the middle Egypt near Melave towards the North. This Tree is now very rare for I have not seen any in all my Travels The Hilélgie is a great Tree full of prickles I have seen one in the Monastery of Abuhennis scituate in the middle Egypt almost over against Melave I was told that it bears a Fruit like to yellow Dasies The Sycamore named by the Arabians Gomeize is one of the ordinary sort of Trees as also the Fig-tree which is of four sorts 1. The common Fig-tree 2. The Fig-tree of Fium 3. Of Europe 4. Avodlis The Palm-tree in Arab. Temer is one of the most vulgar Trees it bears above fifty differing sorts of Fruits There is also the Nebeca a kind of Gum-tree Zante which is called Acacia The Mastick I have seen too in the Monastery of St. Anthony Carobis Atles and Tamrhennes There is also a Tree called Seiials a wild kind of Acacia The Cinamon-tree named in Arab. Cheiiar Scembar The Pomgranate Orange-tree the Lemon-tree the Cedar the Quince-tree the Sefsafs a kind of Withy the Apricock tree the Almond-tree the Cypress-tree The Tree called Mocheits or Sebeste the Fruit whereof is good for Food and to make Glue The Tree called Alats the Myrhe the Fig-tree of Adam named in Arab. Mouz The Kebbads a Tree that bears Oranges of a strange bigness The Keffe Mariam or the holy Virgin 's Hand The Doum or the Gum-tree is a rare Tree in Egypt I have never seen but three in all my Travels one in the Monstery of St. Athanase distant from Siut about three hours travelling towards the South In this Tree are two things remarkable 1. That its Leaves burst forth only at the end of its Branches and in the thick Bunches 2. That they are so equal and even at the end of the Branches that to look upon them one would think that some have cut and even'd them with Scissers The Leaves are very thin and long and are like the Leaves of the Palm-tree The Body of this Tree hath many Branches of a considerable bigness from them proceed others of a lesser size every one is forked and the end of these Leaves appear in Bunches as we have said Of the Plants AMongst all the Curious Plants of Egypt I have taken notice of these following Belsen is a Plant or Herb that bears a Medicinal Grain good to heal Wounds Sabbara the Leaves whereof are very thick and full of sap there are two sorts the Male and the Female Vudne is like Purslan but its Leaves are very great and its taste is fourish and it 's eaten raw Sedab is Rue Filfil Garden-Pepper Gesalaht is a Plant that grows as big as a Tree Verdhomar is our Rosa asini Morian is called in Latin Halicacabus Kilu otherwise named Alcali Rabl is an Herb of a fragrant smell full of Oyl growing upon Hills Barnub is a Plant that contains a Powder that Dyers use I shall speak of it in the sequel of this Journal Here be also Jessemins both single and double Katife or the Virgins-Bower whereof there are two sorts the single and the other named in Arab. Katife Kodsi or the Virgins Bower of Jerusalem Rihan is our Origanum There are several sorts 1. Of Kodsi or Jerusalem 2. Sciami of Damascus 3. Hindi of the
the Haven yield a most delightful Prospect There are no Walls nor Fortifications only a round and very high Tower that stands at the end of the Town towards the Sea where there is neither Watch nor Ward nor Guns In this City there is great Trading in Linen Rice Coffee and Stuffs I was told that every year about five hundred Ships go out of this Haven small and great loaded with Rice for Turkie Here are made many beautiful sorts of Linen of all kinds and colours which are Transported to Foreign Countries Here is also a great deal of Fish salted The Mullet that are here pickled are highly esteem'd all over the Levant The Town is Governd by an Aga sent thither from the Pacha and therefore nam'd by the Turks Pachagasi or the Aga of the Pacha Besides his other Incomes he takes from every Tavern of Aqua-vitae ten Pora's in the City are a great many such Taverns From every Carache it being a little Ship he receives five Pora's and from greater Ships six and thirty and forty when they go out of the Port Besides many Casualties which amount to a great deal through his extortion as the manner of the Turks is for out of our Ship he took six Barrels of Cyprus-wine containing each six Metres and every Metre holding twenty Pots though this was not his due I had some difficulty to save from his greedy hands a Box of excellent Wine of the Country of Kesrovan The Souldiery and chiefly the Janissaries are very insolent There be but two hundred and about twenty Spahins Of the Christians the Grecks are the most numerous They be about two hundred Families and have a considerable Church Of the Copties there be about eight Families The Turks about a year since took Possession of their Church because they had not paid them a certain Tax that they had laid upon them There are no Francs that dwell there in the City for want of Trade because this Haven is at a little distance from all the Christian Countries and because they are settled at Rosetta which lies more convenient for them and nearer There is only a Chamber which the Franciscans of the holy Land have hired in the Apartment of the Greek Patriarch which is a little House very filthy yet they Lodge there when they pass to and fro from Jerusalem to Cairo The greatest Traffick in this City by Sea is of Wood and Timber which is Imported as well for Fewel as for the building of Houses and Ships for Wood is very scarce in Egypt chiefly in the Inferiour During my abode in this City I met with an old Ship-Captain by Religion a Maronite who told me that between this City and the Town of Bogas the River Nilus grew shallower every year and that he had taken notice that about fifteen years ago it was fifteen Cubits deep but now scarce fifteen Foot This proceeds from the Earth which the Water loosens from its sides and washes into the middle about the Mouth of the River there the Earth stops He gather'd from thence that it was to be fear'd that in this River great Ships would not be able one day to pass from the Mouth to Damietta The Town of Mansoura i. e. Victorious the abode of the Cascief of Dekahlie is a great and beautiful Town scituate upon the East-side of Nilus Its Houses are not builded as those of Damietta upon the Water but there is a large Street between them for to walk but because we Landed not then in that place I had not the opportunity to view it nor to give an exact Description of it I shall only say this of it That in this Town the French King S. Lewis was taken Prisoner by Sultan Saleh negm iddin eiiub ibn il Kamel All the particulars of the end and carrying on of this War are to be seen in the Macrizi and in Ibn Zulak I could wish these Histories of the Arabians were Translated into any known Languages for here are several remarkable Circumstances mentioned in them with which we are not acquainted Here are likewise many Verses full of Wit but Satyrical made then by the Moors upon the taking of S. Lewis and the conclusion of this War so happy for their Nation Between Damietta and Grand Cairo are to be seen upon the River side a prodigious number of Pigeon-houses which is here remarkable because there are not found so many in any other part of Egypt nor builded in the same manner These Pigeon-houses begin at Mitbedri a Village near Mansoura on the same side in sailing towards Cairo In one days Journey and a half I saw so many that I wondred at it for there is scarce a House in all the Villages but there is one or more Pigeon-houses At the Foundation the Walls are of Earth only and round on the top very spacious within full of Earthen Pots for the Pigeons Nests and without are many Poles for them to pitch on and rest themselves It is easie to judge whether the sight and Prospect of so many Pigeon-houses be not very delightful The Moors that were in our Boat told us that in these Villages fifteen Pigeons were commonly sold for one Para forty Para's make 4 s. 6 d. So that I reckon that about two hundred and forty Couples were sold for that Money Semennut is a great Town scituate on the West-side of Nilus in the Cascieftik of Garbie not far from Mohelle KabÃre or the great Mohelle It is built in a Triangular Form the lower part stretches it self along the River The Barques that sail towards Cairo are bound to stop here and pay Custome The Custome-house is built upon a Ship in the River at which the Vessels never stop above an hour In the middle Way between Diametta and Cairo is Mitgamr a very beautiful and large Town scituate upon the East-side of Nilus We landed and I found there many fair Houses and a spacious Bazar or Market-place where all manner of Provisions were to be sold Here are also a great many Christians of the Copties Over against Mitgamr that is on the West-side Nilus is Sitfe a beautiful and big Town belonging to to the Cascieftik of Mohelle KebÃre where we beheld a pursuit of some Peasants whom the Cascief of that Province chas'd They were come to demand a certain Tribute which he was wont to pay them and upon his denial of it they rose up in Arms against him But as soon as he had sent out the Spahins against them they ran all away These poor Caitiffs being on Foot and finding themselves followed by Horse-men that they might not fall into their hands they cast themselves in haste into the River to swim over six were unhappily drown'd before our Eyes In the upper Egypt is a Village named also Sitfe which I shall mention in another place The 12th of April about two a-Clock in the Afternoon we left one of the Branches of Nilus that leaves the main River and runs to
a renowned Physician named Zabulon He lived about two-hundred-seventy years before the Arabians became Masters of Egypt He is yet famous for his wonderful Riches They say that he hid them in a Well which is in the same Church and secur'd them with a Talisman that none might have them after his decease The Patriarch of the Copties House is joining to this Church The other in the Greek's Street is Dedicated to S. Barba It is but small and obscure I went to see it the 4th of November 1672. Heretofore they had many Churches and Monasteries and a Bishop in the Chandak an old Suburb of Cairo but now ruinated But now they have but two one Dedicated to the Arch-Angel Gabriel the other to the Abbot Mercurius sirnamed Roes Here the Copties of Cairo have a Burying-place Of the many Mosques at Cairo that which is called Giama ill assar is the richest and the greatest It was built by Giauher the first Founder of the City It is yet the Cathedral where the four Mouftis or Doctors of the Mahometan Law reside It is a Refuge for Offenders and a School for to teach the Law of Mahomet with its Revenues it entertains no less than eight hundred Persons of that Profession and receives for that purpose two thousand Ardebs of Corn from the Store-houses of the Grand Seignior and seven thousand more from other Benefactors There are four Mouftis at Cairo that borrow their Names from the four chief Sects of Mahemet 1. Of Sciaffeà 2. Of Maleki 3. Of Hambali 4. Of Hanefi They are all equal in Dignity because their Sects whereof they are the chief are likewise equal They have power to excommunicate the Pacha's when they attempt to do any thing against their Religion or their Mosques For Instance they excommunicated Pacha Ibrahim in the year 1672 because he offered to take away some of the Gifts and Rents belonging to the Mosques of Cairo By that means they hinder'd him from executing his sacrilegious design When the Excommunication prevails not they shut the Gates of this Mosque which causes the People to rise up in Arms and they never are quiet till they have kill'd the Offender In Cairo and in its Suburbs there are nine publick Shambles belonging to the Grand Seignior 1. That of HassenÃe which is the greatest 2. That of Haret Jehúd or of the Street of the Jews 3. That of Bab illuk or of the Whore's Quarter 4. That of the Lions Bridge 5. That of old Cairo 6. That of GÃze 7. That of Haret il sakkain 8. That of Telun 9. Two that are at Boulac whereof in one the Oxen are killed in the other the Sheep and Goats The Heads and the Skins of all the Beasts that are kill'd in these Markets unless it be of the Goats belong to the Grand Seignior out of this Custome he receives a great profit It is very true that in Cairo are seven differing Orders of the Militia Amongst these the Montrosses and Gunners are not reckon'd but only the Metferracas three Cornets of Spahins which be il Giúmulli il Tefakschi and il Cércassi The Janissaries the Chiaoux and the Azapes belong to them The Janissaries the Spahins the Azapes and the Gebegis are paid only every three Months but the Chiaoux and Metferracas the Jetams or Orphelins the Giavalis the Kescie and the Metkaeds receive their pay every Month without any delay A Description of Old Cairo OLD Cairo so called erroneously by the Francs is named by the Arabians Massr from Massr or Mizraim the Son of Cham and Grand-child of Noah that caused it to be built It is the ancientest City of Egypt next to Memphis after the destruction of this Old Cairo became the chief It is scituate on the East-side of Nilus over against the place where Memphis stood next to New Cairo It was heretofore a stately City but now it is almost all ruinated In the 18th year of the Hegira which is about 1033 years since that Amru ibn il ass General of Amru ibn Chottab a successor of Mahomet took this City John Mekaukes a noble Coptie was then Governour for the Emperour Heraclius When Amru had taken it he made Peace with Mekaukes upon condition that every Coptie should pay him and all his Successors two-pence a-year as a Tribute and that he should give entertainment for three days to all the Arabians that should pass through Egypt as may be seen more fully in the Macrizi This City hath been increas'd many times as the Conquerors and Lords of the Country did think convenient to pitch upon a more pleasant place for their abode The places where the Fostat the Cassr iscémma the Quarter of the Patriarch of the Copties Babylon Cateia the Caraff and others Fostat is a Greek Name which signifies a Tent of Goat-skins The Arabians name one side of Old Cairo thus because the Tent of Amru ibn il ass of this substance was planted there when he was busie in Conquering Egypt The same Amru caused it to be inclosed in with Walls after that he had taken the City of Alexdria he settled there his abode and that of his Successors Alexandria that had been the Royal City of the Greeks for about nine hundred years was then forsaken and the Fostat was the chief City of Egypt It continued so till Ahmed ibn Toulon built Cateia very near Fostat His Successors of his Race forsook it and settled themselves in Cateia But when this Race was extinct and Grand Cairo being built by Giauher as we have said the Califfs chose it for their abode causing Fostat to be burnt that the new City might be stronger and fuller of People and they left Cateia as we may see in Macrizi Cassr Isscémma is a Castle or Suburb inclosed with Walls near adjoining to Fostat built by Artaxerxes King of Persia Now only Christians inhabit there They have many Churches which we shall describe in this following Journal for I went to see them on the 18th day of July 1672. There are two differing Opinions concerning the Origine of this Name Some would have it written Cassr iggiama that is the Castle of the Assembly for they say that here the great Wits did meet to increase Learning but this Opinion is not well grounded Others write it Cassr isscémma this is likely to be the truest for I find it thus written by all Arabian Historians The Granaries and Store-houses of the Grand Seignior are adjoining to this Castle They are named by the Arabs Scióne The Provisions of Corn and other necessaries for the Food of the Malitia are here kept not only for the Malitia of Egypt but also for all the other Countries that depend upon Egypt And that this Corn might be better distributed there are four Aga's or Officers named in Arab. Agavat beta il ghelà l or Aga's of the Stores in the upper Egypt One dwells at Benesuef another at Minie the third at Momfallat the fourth at Girge Their Office is to gather up the
and the Old Testament written in the Ethiopian Language He and another of the same Nation named Peter of Constantinople went with this Pacha with an intention to get into their own Country I heard some time after that this Pietro was become a Mahometan at Sues to escape the Fire unto which he was condemn'd for striking a Moor. A Voyage to Rosetta ON Monday the last of May I went out of Cairo designed for Rosetta with the same Leonard who had been with me at Gemiane and a Nubian Slave that I had I went thither on purpose to spend there the time of the violent heats which are not so fierce in that City as at Cairo as also to see the Mouth of the River Nilus at that City and to satisfie a doubt that I had about the Water of MaadÃe for I knew not whether it was a Gulph or a Mouth of the River Nilus with an intention from thence to go to Alexandria to see its Curiosities We were four days going from Cairo to Rosetta an extraordinary long time because the winds Maltam or Maestraux that blow against those that go down the River opposed our Voyage The most remarkable Towns in this way are Fuva Sindiun Teirut Motubis and Tféni by the River side Fuva called by the Greeks Metelis and in the Copties Dictionary Messil is a very ancient great and considerable Town scituated upon the East-side of Nilus seven hours travelling from Resetta It s Territory is very delightful because of the pleasant Fields and Gardens round about It bears Fruits that are much esteem'd in all Egypt Geziret Iddahab or the Island of Gold is over against this City Heretofore the River was so deep from the Mouth as far as this Town that great Barques loaden were able to sail hither at that time the Custom-house was kept here But in time the River becoming here so shallow that the Barques being not able to come so far the Custom-house hath been since establish'd at Rosetta where it continues yet Sindiun and Teirut are two other Towns scituated upon the Banks of Nilus over against one another as are also Motúbis and Tféni the first stands on the East-side the other on the West-side At Rosetta I lodged with Monsieur Reynaud Vice-Consul of the French in this City he is a very honest Man He imployed all his credit to procure me the sight of the Curiosities round about For the information of all European Travellers I have taken notice that of late there is a Carrier set up at Rosetta who goes by Land to Damietta when any desires to travel that way which conveniency was not formerly for when any intended that Journey he was to run many hazards and inconveniences I had first design'd to go thither but instead of that Journey I went to visit the Monasteries of the Desart of S. Macarius where I expected more satisfaction I have long doubted whether the Waters of MaadÃe or the Pool that is half-way between Rosetta and Alexandria was a Branch of Nilus or else a Gulph of the Sea In another Relation of Egypt which I Printed in Italian at Paris in the Year 1671. I have said that it was a Branch of Nilus but since I have understood the truth that it was nothing but a Gulph or Pool for 1. Its Waters are very salt as far as Etku its uttermost bounds which Town as I conceive is the same with Motubis 2. This Water comes not from Nilus neither hath any Correspondency with this River True it is when Nilus overflows it becomes sweeter because of the mixture of the River's-water with the Water of this Gulph It retains this sweetness about two Months until Nilus leaves the Fields and as soon as the Tramontane or Westerly Wind blows the Waters of this Pool return to their wonted saltness and acrimony The 10th of June I went to the Mouth of the River Nilus about an hours sailing from Rosetta to take the Description of it I took notice that Nilus hath there two Branches or Mouths though they be reckoned but one That which runs into the Sea towards the East and is called the Easterly Mouth and that which runs into the Sea towards the West and is named the Westerly Mouth They take the first to sail to Brullos to Damietta to Seyda and Constantinople c and by this last they go to Alexandria and other Western Parts This separation proceeds from a low Island very small which stands in the middle of the River next to the Sea The Mouth of Nilus next to this City is Guarded with two Castles one stands at the East-side of the River and the other at the West That which is about a Mile and a half from Rosetta is square encompassed about with strong Walls built according to the old Model having four Towers In the middle is a high Dungeon to retreat at last One hundred fourscore and four Janissaries are there in Garison They lye every Night in the Garison but in the Day-time they have liberty to go into the City to work for their living It is furnish'd with threescore and fourteen Pieces of Cannon seven are of an extraordinary bigness The Aga that Commanded here in chief was a Spanish Renegado The other Castle is but a Mosque before it stands seven Pieces of Artillery on the Ground Here Commands also an Aga over a Company of Moors who examine all that go in or out of the City When I attempted to go out they came to my Boat and obliged me to return into the City again though the Janissary that was with me and well acquainted with them offered to answer for me They treated me in this manner for fear of a Pirat of Malta that sailed before the Haven at that time they were afraid that I had some intelligence with him to give him notice of some Ships that were ready to set sail loaden from Rosetta Nevertheless I had another opportunity to take the Description of this Mouth also It is now in the Closet of that Person of Quality who hath the others A Journy by Land from Rosetta to Alexandria THE 14th of June I went in the Evening from Rosetta towards Alexandria with a Moor recommended to me by the French Vice-Consul of this City We had two Mules to carry us for which I paid seventeen Meidins for the whole Journy About Midnight we came to the Water named by the Moors MaadÃe After a little stay in the Han or publick Inn we proceeded on in our Journey in a Moon-shining Night towards Alexandria where we arriv'd the next day about eight or nine a Clock From Rosetta to Alexandria there is ten hours travelling for a Horseman the most part of the way is along the Sea-Coast so that the Beasts have a long way their Feet in Water The Country is so even that there is no trouble for Travellers and unless it be the Han in the Mid-way there is neither Village nor Tree nor Grass to be
this Experiment if a piece of Earth about Alexandria be put in the hot Sun it will become white as Snow on that side that is towards the Sun Of the Pillar of Pompey and of the Caves that are near Alexandria not far from it THE 21st of June I went to see the Pillar of Pompey and other Rarities thereabouts in the company of Monsieur Truillard the Elder a French Merchant and of the Janissary that belongs to the Vice-Consul We went out at the Gate called Babissidr where this Pillar stands upon a little Hill towards the South When I drew near I took notice that it lean'd on one side whereas eight years before it stood very streight when I saw it The cause of this are the Arabians who out of a perswasion of some great Treasure hid under have digg'd and undermin'd it and have drawn out of its Foundation many great heaps of Stones that held it up this causeth it to lean a little on that side They had overthrown it had they not found at the bottom Stones of a fearful bigness and so great that neither they nor any body else was able to draw them out The Description and Dimensions of this Pillar are found in the Book of Monsieur Thevenot Therefore I say no more of it here because I will not stuff this Book with ordinary things mentioned before in other Travels After we had well viewed this Pillar we march'd along the Calitz as far as the place that is over against the City Walls to observe the Passage of the Waters We went with this design on the other side of the Calitz over the little Bridge that is near it When we came to the little Arches that are under the Walls through which the River enters into the City we made our observations and took next the way that leads to the Caves that are in the Fields at West-South-West of the Gate out of which we came and about a quarter of a League in our way towards the Lake Sebaca we came to the Caves having left at West-North-West a Mosque in a plain Field where was buried a certain Schech of the Moors called Sidi gams il gábbari At our entrance we went down a dozen steps into a very large Alley digg'd in the Rock but open a-top it may be the Vault is fallen by length of time In this Alley are fifteen great holes cut in the Rock in the fashion of great Gates seven are on the right hand and eight on the left through which Men enter into the Caves We went into four with our Torches lighted our Janissary before us we found round about the Walls in the firm Rock from the top to the bottom holes cut in the Rock very orderly and of a length and breadth fit to hold a Coffin Many of these Caves were cut to open a way to others This inconveniency we found there they were almost all fill'd up with Earth and Sand which caused us to kneel for the most part this did not hinder us from taking notice of that which was most remarkable Whiles we were in one at the end of the Alley one of our Company perceived with the light of his Tapers that one of the holes open'd a passage to another Cave which caused us to see whether there was not there any thing worthy of our notice Though the hole was but small and narrow we crept in upon our Bellies with our lighted Tapers and one after another we came to the other side where we sound one of the strangest and most curious Caves that we had ever seen It was greater more compleat and cleaner than any of the others built long and square and well Plaister'd with Lime at each side of the Wall which is the main Rock there are three ranks of holes like to those that we had seen in the former In the longer sides were fifteen in every rank plac'd one a top of the other in all they were forty-five The two ends or sides that were shortest had likewise three ranks and three holes at every rank nine in all They were all empty and clean and no ill scent in all the Cave unless it be in one hole where we saw the Skeleton of the Body of a Man dried up I conceive that the Learned may desire my judgment concerning these Caves and Holes and to what purpose they were made To this I answer that it is not easie to give a just account of them because Macrizi who hath spoken of all the remarkable things of Egypt makes no mention of these Caves Nevertheless it is easie to be seen that they could be for no other use but to bury and place the dead This may be gathered from the fashion of the holes which are just as long as high and as large as needs must to place a Bier or Coffin besides all the other Caves in Egypt were only for that purpose it is therefore very probable that this was for no other purpose let the Reader think what he pleaseth of them I do not deny but that they may have serv'd the Christians to meet together and pray God in secret for fear of the Heathens that persecuted them I find this Opinion in Seid ibn Patrik a Patriarch of Alexandria in his History p. 399. The Inhabitants of Alexandria name these Caves the Súk or the Market-place but there is no likelihood that they have been employed for that use The Rock in which they are cut is much eaten and consum'd by time the holes are likewise much decayed chiefly those that are nearest to the Door and in the open air They receive some light from above through little square holes that are made on purpose in the Vaults The 22th I went round the City to take notice of the Walls and Towers I went into six of the chief The first is that which is nearest to the French Fondego or French House before you come to Bab il achdar or the green Gate It is round and supported within with three ranks of Pillars of red Stone seven in every one Next to this Tower we went to the Gate of the old Haven which at present is walled in because this Haven is not frequented both are at the West-side of the City From this Gate we went to the Mosque of the seventy called Giama il garbis We went next by the old Castle of Alexandria named Borg Mustapha Pacha which serv'd heretofore to guard the old Haven at present there are three hundred Janissaries in Garison Till then we walk'd always towards the West but when we had left this Castle we turn'd towards the East and found next a great Tower where we got upon the Platform not by any steps but by a large way made sloping up Next to this Tower we came to Bab issidr out of which stands the Pillar of Pompey From thence we went to another called Bab irrascîd or the Gate of Rosetta along the Walls of the City I went out of the
be seen many Relicks of Antiquity as Capitals Antick Works Pillars of Marble broken In the Corn-market is to be seen a great Pillar entire laid upon the ground and a great Mill-stone both of a red stone and almost in all houses is to be seen something very remarkable for its antiquity Here is made much Linen for the house and Canvas to pack up the Commodities of the Country They have a great deal of Flax which yields a great benefit strak'd Linen is plentiful here and very good with which the Country-people cloath themselves The Leather of this Country is much esteem'd but chiefly the Blankets that are made here are the finest of the Levant and are carried all over the world Here are also made Sacks of Network of Cord to carry upon Camels Straw or dried Dung to burn or Stones or some such thing for they never use Carts This Territory is very fruitful and pleasant and all that grows here is of a better taste than in the other Provinces Here are Fields full of Rose-trees and Woods of Fig-trees which are not in other parts of Egypt The Gardens are full of all manner of Trees bearing Fruit as Pear-trees Orange-trees Lemon-tree Peach-trees Plumb-trees Apricock-trees and many others that are sent to be sold at Cairo which yields them a great profit In Fium only of all the Provinces of Egypt are Vineyards and in these Villages only in Fidimin where I have been in Nacalife Seliin Abukesa Agiamiin Gerrado and Tobhar They make Wine thus They press the Grapes either with their Feet or other wise into a great Earthen Vessel they put afterwards the new Wine into a Sack of course Linen and strain it into another Vessel from thence they draw it and secure it in Jars well pitch'd within which contain about twelve thousand Drams Now these Jars they place in the Sun during seven days leaving them open that the new Wine might purge it self they stop them afterwards with Palm-leaves and cover them close with Mud. They leave their Wine in this manner till they intend to drink it This Wine is not much esteemed of by the Francs because there remains so much dregs that come out into the Cup with the Wine but if they had but the art of clearing and clarifying the Wine it would be doubtless a very pleasant Wine for the Grapes are very sweet and pleasing to the taste I have not seen a Province in Egypt that is so much cut into Channels as this They all proceed from Josephs River and they are made to water the Fields with more ease and because this great number of Ditches would hinder men from travelling up and down were it not for the Bridges here be more than in any other part of Egypt They are all made with burnt Bricks and very strong The Tradition saith that they were builded in the days of the Pharaoh's and it is the opinion of the Copties that these Kings imployed the Israelites in making Bricks for these Bridges which is very probable for it is certain that almost an infinite number of men are needful to make such a prodigious quantity of Bricks This Province of Fium anciently had three hundred threescore and five Towns and Villages but now there be but threescore and two all the other have been swallowed up in the Lake Kern or destroyed by the tyranny of the Governours The Cascief dwells in the Town He pays now to the Pacha five and twenty Purses and five to his Kehaja or Lieutenant and to his Agas He pays for his Province two hundred purses in four payments The Divan of Cairo allows him three Cornets of Horse or Spahins to keep his Country unto whom he pays every six Months five and twenty Piasters which is but a small allowance so that they are but poorly clad and appear as so many Beggars rather than as the Souldiers of so great an Emperour The ancient Town of Arsinoe scituated near Fium on the North-East-side is now totally ruinated There remains nothing of it now but a great many Mountains very high raised with the ruines and rubbish of the Town They shew sufficiently that it was one of the greatest and most glorious Cities of Egypt The people of the Country call it Medinet Fares or the Town of the Persian but I could never understand the cause of this name They say that it was destroyed and burnt by Cats which the Enemies set into it when they had tyed Fire-brands at their Tails which scattered the fire into every corner of the City and burnt it to ashes The Copties call it in their Books Arsinoe and Pliny calls all that Province the Government of Arsinoe On the 24th of this Month I went to Fidintin a Village distant from Fium about two hours riding towards the West to visit the Bishop who was gone thither out of the Casciefs sight I was cloathed in a Turkish habit with a Janizary and a Negre well armed upon good Horses Our coming put the poor Bishop into such a fright that he thought himself already kill'd when he heard that three strange Horse-men ask'd for him He thought at first that we were some sent by the Cascief to do him an injury These poor people are become wonderful timerous through the continual tyranny of those Barbarians so that at the least motion they tremble and shake He was pretty well satisfied when I told him that I was a Franc come purposely to crave acquaintance with him He entertain'd us in a very poor dwelling invited us into his Parlour and treated us with very good Wine of the Country When we had spent some hours in conversation with him we went to see the Vines of that Quarter and in the Evening we return'd home to the City The 29th of the same Month I went to Bijamuh a Village about half a League from Fium towards the North to see an ancient thing the Body of a great Statue of a Gyant of a red Stone without Head or Arms standing upon a Basis This Statue is behind the Village in a great broad Road. I could never learn what it is because the Country-people have no Tradition of it and in the Histories of Egypt there is no mention made of it I have only learnt that the people of the Country call it the Statue of Pharaoh which I think not to be true because it is the custom of the Egyptians to entitle all things of an extraordinary bigness with the name of Pharaoh from a conceit they have that they were all Gyants The Basis of this Statue is square of hewn stones that are very great every stone hath two foot and a half in breadth and almost ten foot in length the fore-front hath five Perches in length that is about thirty foot Near this Basis five others stand in a Demi-circle but less and without any Statue upon them The Bishop inform'd me that heretofore in this Village was an Agiasma or Fountain of holy Water called
written underneath in Coptick Letters At the end of the Church Southward I saw a Cross cut in the Rock with a Greek Inscription in ancient Characters And upon the Walls of another Cave at a little distance from this Church and higher about the top of the Mountain I sound also another graven upon the Wall and near this two others which are all Epitaphs of Abbots there Interr'd I could not cause them to be put here because the Printer would not be at the charge of the Characters April the third being Monday in Easter Week I went to the ancient Town of Insine called in the Copties Dictionaries Antinoe and Thebes I went to see first the Tomb of Mahomet Bey a Bey of Girge about fourteen years ago When he took arms against Pacha Gaze he was defeated at Melave and his men forsook him he was taken and strangled His Tomb is out of the City in the common burying place and though there is nothing there extraordinary I was desirous to see it because he hath been and is yet in great reputation amongst the Inhabitants for his Justice and good Government which hath caused him to be lamented by all the Vpper Egypt When I had seen this Tomb I walked into the Town and the first thing that I took notice of as a great Antiquity was the Pillar of Marcus Aurelius It s bottom is above five foot the four uppermost are all even and the fifth below is adorned with carved leaves In the Basis is a Greek Inscription containing thirteen lines I saw near this Pillar the pieces of three others very much resembling this but broken down there was nothing of them standing but the Basis of one From the Pillar I went to see the Arch of Triumph which is almost all standing I took a delight to climb up to it by a little pair of Stairs winding up in the Wall of the Arch containing fifty steps or thereabouts I rested my self at the greatest Window which is upon the chief Vault where I had the satisfaction to discover all its ruines and the scituation of this Town heretofore so famous This Arch is alone and altogether separated from the other Ruines and about four paces from the River Nilus but for want of an Inscription none knows for whom and by whom it hath been rais'd It is not inrich'd with carved Works as those of Orange and Rome nevertheless it is one of the most beautiful that I have ever seen One of its fronts hath eight and forty foot in breadth and one of its sides four and twenty The great Vault in the middle which is between two little ones is about 16 foot broad and each of the two little ones seven foot The thickness of the Wall which is between the great and the little Vaults which is but one stone is of six foot and two inches The thickness which is between the little Vault and the outward Angle of the Arch is of five foot The front that looks towards Nilus is on the South-East side There is yet fourteen Pillars of Marble on the left hand of this Arch in a streight line towards the River some of them have their Capitals others have lost them some are joyned to the Huts of some Arabians that dwell there On the same side towards the Monastery of Abuhennis are to be seen three beautiful Pillars of Porphyry standing some of them have their tops a fourth lies along the ground near by In the Mosque of this Town is a Sciech or Saint whom the Arabians call Sciech Abade for whom they have a great Veneration for they believe him to have been a Mahometan but they are much deceived he was a Christian a Bishop of Isne he suffered Martyrdom at Isne They have called him Sciech Abade by an error which the Sir-name of this Bishop hath caused He was called Ammonius il Abed or the devout Ammonius The Arabians through a mistake of the word Abed making it a proper name whereas it is but an appellative have called him Sciech Abade His Reliques are kept in the Heikel of this Church which now is a Mosque I went afterwards to take a view of a magnificent Palace called by the Arabians Abulkerun or the horned Building because as I think the Pillars that are before this Palace have Capitals whereof the Angles are so great that they appear as so many Horns to the beholders which the word Kern signifies But when I had viewed so many old Reliques I was so weary that I returned to the Monastery and the rather because of the violent heat with an intent to return another day and examine all things more exactly Tuesday the fourth of April I went with my ordinary Guide to see the Vadigamus and the Caves that are there Vadigamus is a narrow Valley between two Mountains which are as high as one another and flat on the top This Valley is like a Bugle from whence I believe this Valley hath borrowed the name for the word Vadigamus signifies the Valley of the Bugle At the beginning it hath a large entrance which answers to a great sandy Plain which is at one side of the Monastery of Abuhennis It stretches it self Southwards about half an hours travelling over Afterwards it riseth by degrees to the top of the Mountains where it unites and joyns them and represents the bottom of a Sack On both sides of these two Mountains that face one another are two Ranks of Caves each Rank containing fifty Caves or thereabouts which make one hundred Caves upon each Mountain I enter'd into some of them that were so high that three long Pikes tyed to one another would not have reach'd to the top They are very large but without order within and uneven and not perfectly square I have wondered at the capricious designs of the Ancient Egyptians to make such wide Caves so high and so numerous yielding so little conveniency to the Inhabitants for they are made upon the steep Mountains of Sand far from Towns and Water digg'd in the dark and main Rocks If I had not perus'd the History of Said ibn Patrik who saith that the Pharaoh's Kings of Egypt imployed the Israelites in digging in these Mountains I should be of the opinion of the Country people who believe that all these Caves have been made by Devils who have been thereunto forced by Conjurers this Art having been always much practis'd in Egypt for one would think that it is not possible for men to make them and I dare say that when a Traveller hath seen all the Curiosities of Egypt if he hath not seen these Mountains and Caves of the Province of Thebes he hath seen nothing Wednesday the fifth of the Month I went again to Insine to look upon its Ruines with more exactness and chiefly upon the Pillars that stand before the Abulkerun on the North-west side There are in all four before the front of this Palace which heretofore was very magnificent but now there remains