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A30463 Some letters, containing an account of what seemed most remarkable in Switzerland, Italy, some parts of Germany, &c. in the years 1685 and 1686 written by G. Burnet, D.D. to the Hoble. R.B. ; to which is added, An appendix, containing some remarks on Switzerland and Italy, writ by a person of quality, and communicated to the author ; together with a table of the contents of each letter. Burnet, Gilbert, 1643-1715. 1688 (1688) Wing B5920; ESTC R21514 187,788 260

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Picture hangeth here at the upper end of the Plenipotentiary that negotiated the famou● Treaty of Nimmegen hath indeed set a pattern to the World which is done with such life that it may justly make others blush to copy after it since it must be acknowledged that if we had as perfect an account of the other Places as he hath given us of one of the least but yet one of the Noblest parcels of the Vniverse Travelli●g would become a needless thing unless it were for diversion since one findeth no further occasion for his curiosity in this Country than what is fully fa●issyed by his rare performance yet I cannot give over writing without reflecting on the Resistance that this Place made when so many other Places were so basely delivered up tho one do●h not see in the ●uins of the Fortificati●n here how it could make so long a resistance yet it was that that stem'd the tide of a progre●s that made all the World stand amazed and it gave a little time to the Dutch to recover themselves out of the constern●●io● into which so many blows that came so thi●k one 〈◊〉 another had struck them But then the World saw a change that tho ●t hath not had so much Incense given to it as the happy conjuncture of another Prince hath drawn after it with so much excess that all the topicks of flattery seem exhausted by it yet will appear to posterity one of the most surprizing Scenes in History and that which may be well matched with the recovery of the Roman State after the Battel of Canne When a young Prince that had never before born Arms or so much as seen a Campagne who had little or no Council about him but that which was suggested from his own thoughts and that had no extraordinary advantage by his Education either for Literature or Aff●irs was of a sudden set at the Head of a State and Army th●t was sunk with so many losses and that saw the best half of its Soil torn from it and the powerfullest Enemy in the World surrounded with a Victorious Army that was commanded by the best Generals that the Age had produced come within sight and settle his Court in one of its best Towns and had at the same time the greatest force both by Sea and Land that hath been known united together for its destruction When the Inhabitants were forced that they might save themselves from so formidable an Enemy to let loose that which on all other occasions is the most dreadful to them and to drown so great a part of their Soil for the preservation of the rest and to complicate together all the Miseries that a Nation can dread wh●n to the general consternation with which so dismall a S●e●e possessed them a distraction within doors seemed to threaten them with the last strokes and while their Army was so ill disciplined that they durst scarce promise themselves any thing from such feeble Troops after a Peace at Land of almost thirty Years continuance and while their chief Ally that was the most concerned in their preservation was like a great paralitick body ●iker to fall on those that it pretended to support and tho crush them than to give them any considerable assistance When I say a young Prince came at the Head of ●ll this the very prospect of which would have quite dampt an ordinary Courage he very quickly changed the Scene he animated the Publick Councils with a generous vigour he found them sinking into a feebleness of hearkning to Propositions for a Peace that were as little safe as they were honourable but he disposed them to resolve on hazarding all rather than to submit to such Infamous Terms His credit also among the Populace seemed to Inspire them with a new life they easily persuaded themselves that as one WILLIAM Prince of ORANGE had formed their State so here another of the same name seemed marked out to recover and preferve it It was this Spirit of Courage which he derived from his own Breast and Infused into the whole People as well as into the Magistracy that preserved this Country Something there was in all this that was Divine The publick Councils were again setled and the people were at quiet when they saw him vested with a full Authority for that time with Relation to Peace and War and concluded they were safe because they were in his hands It soon appeared how faithfully he pursued the Interest of his Countrey and how little he regarded his own He rejected all Propositions of Peace that were hurtful to his Country without so much as considering the Advantages that were offered to himself in which you know that I write upon sure grounds He refused the offer of the Soveraignty of its Chief City that was made to him by a solemn Deputation being satisfied with that Authority which had been so long maintained by his Ancestors with so much glory and being justly sensible how much the breaking in upon established Laws and Liberties is fatal even to those that seem to get by it He thus began his publick appearance on the Stage with all the disadvantages that a Spirit aspiring to true Glory could wish for since it was Visible that he had nothing to trust to but a good Cause a favourable Providence and his own Integrity and Courage● nor was success wanting to such Noble Beginnings for he in a short time with a Conduct and Spirit beyond any thing that the World hath yet seen recovered this S●ate out of so desperate a distemper took some Places by main force and obliged the Enemy to abandon all that they had acquired in so feeble a manner And if a raw Army had not always success against more numerous and better-trained Troops and if the want of Magazins and Stores in their Allys Country which was the chief Scene of the War made that he cou●d not Post his Army and wait ●or favourable circumstances so that he was sometimes forced to run to Action with a hast that his Necessitys imposed upon him yet the forcing of the beginnings of a Victory out of the hands of the greatest General of the Age the facing a greeat Monarch with an Army much inferior to his when the other was too cautious to hazard an ingagement and in short the forming the Dutch Army to such a pitch that it became visibly Superior to the French that seemed to have been sed with Conquests and the continuing the War till the Prince that had sacrificed the quiet of Eur●pe to his Gl●ry was glad to come and treat for a Pea●e in the Enemies Coun●ry and in this very place and to set all Engines on work to obtain that by the Mediation of some and the Jealousies of other Princes all these are such Performances that Posterity will be disposed to rank them rather among the Idea's of what an imaginary H●ro could do than with what could be really Transacted in so short a
do not aspire The Government is almost the same as at Bern and the Magistrate that is called the Advoyer at Bern is here called the Bourgomaster The revenue of the State is here justly accounted for so that the publick Purse is much richer than at Bern the Arsenal is much better furnished and the Fortifications are more regular There is a great trade stirring here and as their Lake that is 24. miles long and about two or three Broad supplies them well with provisions so their River carries their Manufacture to the Rhine from whence it is conveyed as they please One of their Chief Manufacturies is Crape which is in all respects the best I ever saw I will not describe the situation of the Town but shall content my self to tell you that it is extream pleasant the Countrey about it is Moun●anous and the Winters are hard for the L●ke freezes quite over only in some places the Ice never lies which is believed a mark that some Spr●ngs rise there which cause that heat so also in the Lake of Geneva tho it is never quite frozen yet great flakes of Ice lie in several parts but these are never seen in some parts of the Lake which is supposed to flow from the same cause But to return to Zurich one sees here the true ancient Simplicity of the Switzers not corrupted which Luxury or Vanity their Women not only do not converse familiarly with men except those of their near kindred b●t even on the Streets do not make any returns to the Civility of Strangers for it is only Strangers that put off their Hats to Women but they make no Courtisies and here as in all Switzerland Women are not saluted but the civility is expressed by taking them by the Hand There is one thing singular in the constitu●ion of Zurich that is their little Council consists of 50 persons but there sit in it only 25. at a time and so the two halves of this Council as each of them has his proper Bourgomaster have also the Government in their Hands by turns and they shift every six months at Mid-summer and at Christ-Mass The whole Canton is divided into nine great Bailiages and 21 Castellaneries in the former the Bailif resides Constantly but the Castellan who is also one of the gr●at Council has so little to do that he lives at Zurich and goes only at some set times of the year to do justice The vertue of this Canton has appeared signally in their adhering firmly to the antient Capitulations with the Fren●h and not slackening in any Article which has been done by all the other Cantons where mony has a Soveraign influence but here it has never prevailed They have converted ●he ancient Revenues of the Church more generally to pious Uses than has been done any where else that I know of They have many Hospitals well entertained in one as I was told there was 650 poor kept but as they support the real Charities which belong to such endowments so they despise that vain Magnificence of Buildings which is too generally affected elsewhere for theirs are very plain and one of the Government there said to me very sensibly That they th●ught it enough to maintain their Poor as Poor and did not judge it proper to lodge them as Prin●es The Dean and Chapter are likewise still continued as a corporation and enjoy the revenues which they had before the Reformation but if they subsist plentifully they labour hard for they have generally two or three Sermons a day and at least one the first begins at five a clock in the morning At Geneva and all Switserland over there are daily Sermons which were substituted upon the Reformation from the Mass. But the Sermons are generally too long and the Preachers have departed from the first design of these Sermons which were intended to be an explication of a whole Chapter and an exhortation upon it and if this were so contrived that it were in all not above a quarter of an hour long as it would be heard by the People with less Weariness and more profit so it would be a vast Advantage to the Preachers For as it would oblige them to study the Scriptures much so having once made themselves Masters of the practical parts of the Scripture such short and simple Discourses would cost them less pains than those more laboured Sermons do which consume the greatest part of their time and too often to very little purpose Among the Archives of the Dean and Chapter there is a vast Collection of Letters written either to Bullinger or by him they are bound up and make a great many V●lums in Folio and out of these no doubt but one might discover a great many particulars relating to the History of the R●formati●m For as Bullinger lived long so he was much esteemed He procured a very kind reception to be given to some of our English Exiles in Queen Maries Reign in particular to Sands afterwards Ar●h-Bishop of York to Horn afterwards Bishops of Win●hester and to Iewel Bishop of Salisbury He gave them lodgings in the Close and used them with all possible kindness and as they presented some Silver-Cups to the Colledge with ●n Inscription acknowledging the kind Reception they had ●ound there which I saw so they continued to keep a constant Correspondence with Bullinger after the happy re-establishment of the Reformation under Queen Elisabeth Of which I read almost a whole Volum while I was there Most of them contain only the general news but some were more important and relate to the Disputes then on foot concerning the Habits of the Clergy which gave the first beginnings to our unhappy Divisions and by the Letters of which I read the Originals it appears that the Bishops preserved the ancient Habits rather in compliance with the Queens inclinations than out of any liking they had to them so far they were from liking them that they plainly exprest their dislike of them Iewel in a Letter bearing date the 8. of February 1566. wishes that the Vestments together with all the other Remnants of Popery might be thrown both out of their Churches and out of the minds of the People and laments the Queens fixedness to them so that she would suffer no change to be made And in Ianuary of the same year Sands writes to the same purpose Contenditur de vestibus Papisti●is utendis vel non utendis dabit Deus his quoque finem Di●putes are now on foot concerning the Popish Vestments whether they should be used or not but God will put an end to those things Horn Bishop of Win●hester went further For in a Letter dated the 16th of Iuly 1565. He writes of the Act concerning the Habits with great regret and expresses some hopes that it might be repealed next Session of Parliament if the Popish Party did not hinder it and he seems to stand in doubt whether he should conform himself to it or not upon
towards the Altar he after a long address to it at last in a forced Transport took it in his A●ms and hugged it and kissed it But I observed that before he kiss'd it he seeing some dust on it blew it off very carefully for I was just under the Pulpit He entertained it with a long and tender Caress and held it out to the people and would have forced Tears both from himself and them yet I saw none shed But if the Sermon in the morning surprized me I wondred no less at two Discourses that I heard in one Church at the same time in the afternoon for there were two Bodies of men set down in different places of the Church all covered and two Laymen in ordinary habits were entertaining them with Discourses of Religion in a Cate●histical stile These were Consrairies and those were some of the more devout that instructed the rest This as I never saw any where else so I do not know whether it is peculiar to Milan or not My Conductor could not speak Latin and the Italian there is so different from the true Tuscan which I only knew that I could not understand him when he was ingaged in a long discourse so I was not clearly informed of this matter but I am apt to think it might have been some institution of C●rdinal Borromeos The Ambrosian Li●rary founded by Cardinal Frederick Borromeo is a very noble Room and wel furnished only it is too full of School-men and Canonists which are the chief studies of It●ly an● it hath too few Books of a more solid and useful learning One part of the disposition of the R●om was pleasant there is a great number of Chairs placed all round it at a competent distance from one another and to every Chair there belongs a Desk with an E●ritoire that hath Pen Ink and Paper in it so that every Man finds tools here for such extracts as he would make There is a little Room of Manuscripts at the e●d of the great Gallery but the Library-keeper knows little of them a great many of them relate to their Saint Charle● I saw some fragments of Latin Bi●les but none seemed to be above six hundred Years old there are also some fragments of Saint Am●roses W●rks and of Saint Ieroms Epistles that are of the same antiquity I was sorry not to find Saint Ambrose's Works inti●e that I might have seen whether the Books of the Sacraments are ascribed to him in ancient C●pies for perhaps they belong to a more modern Author It is true in these Books the Doctrine of a sort of a corporal presence is asserred in very high expressions but there is one thing mentioned in them which is stronger against it than all those Citations can be for it for the Author gives us the formal Words of the Prayer of Consecration in his time which he prefaces with some solemnity will you know how the change is wrought hear the Heavenly Words For the Priest saith c. But whereas in the present Canon of the Mass the Prayer of consecration is for a good part of it very near in the same Words with those which he mentions there is one essential difference for in the Canon they now pray that the Hosty may be to them the Body and Blood of Christ which by the way doth not agree too well with the notion of Transubstan●●●tion and approacheth more to the Doctrine of the Lu●herans whereas in the Prayer cited by that Author the Hosty is said to be The Figure of the B●dy and Blood of Christ here is the language of the whole Church of that time and in the most important part of the Divine Office which signifie●h more to me than a thousand Quotations out of particular Writers which are but their Private Opinions but this is the Voice of the whole Body in its Addresses to God and it seems the Church of Rome when the new Doctrine of the Corporal Presence was received saw that this Prayer of Consecration could not consist with it which made her change such a main Part of the Office. This gave me a curiosity every where to search for ancient Offices but I found none in the Abbey of St. Germains that seemed older than the times of Charles the Great so I found none of any great Antiquity in all Italy Those published by Cardinal Bona and since by P. Mabillon that were brought from Heidelberg are the most ancient that are in the Vatican but these seem not to be above eight hundred years old There are none of the ancient Roman Offices now to be seen in the Vatican I was amazed to find none of any great Antiquity which made me conclude that either they were destroyed that so the difference between Ancient and Modern Rituals might not be turned against that Church as an undeniable Evidence to prove the Changes that she hath made in divine Matters or that they were so well kept that Hereticks were not to be suffered to look into them But to return to the Ambrosian Library there is in it a Manuscript of great Antiquity tho not of such great consequence which is Ruffinus's Translation of Iosephus that is written in the old Roman hand which is very hard to be read But there is a deed in the curious Collection that Count Mascard● ha●h made at Verona which by the date appears to have been written in Theodosius's time which is the same sort of w●iting with the Manuscript of Ruffinus so that it may be reckoned to have been writ in Ruffinus his own time and this is the most valuable tho the least known Curiosity in the whole Library I need not say any thing of the curious Works in Christal that are to be seen in Milan the greatest quantities that are in Europe are found in the Alps and are wrought here but this is too well known to need any further inlargement It is certain the Alps have much Wealth shut up in their Rocks if the Inhabitants knew how to search for it But I heard of no Mines tha● were wrought except Iron Mines yet by the colourings that in many places the Fountains make as they run along the Rocks one sees cause to believe that there are Mines and Miner●ls shut up within them Gold has been often found in the River of Arve that runs by Geneva The last curiosity that I shall mention of the Town of Milan is the Cabinet of the Chanoine Settala which is now in his Brothers hands where there are a great many very valuable things both of Art and Nature there is a lump of Ore in which there is both Gold and Silver and Emeralds and Diamonds which was brought from Peru. There are many curious motions where by an unseen Spring a Ball after it hath rowled down through many winding descents is ●hrown up and so it seems to be a perpetual motion this is done in several forms and it is well enough disguised to deceive the vulgar
instead of ex●ressing any Displeas●●e against them recalled the Order that he had sent them The way from Heidelberg to Fra●kfort is for the first twelve or fifteen Miles the beautifullest piece of ground that can be imagined for we went under a ridge of little Hills that are all covered with Vines and from them as far as the eye can go there is a beautiful Plain of Corn-fields and Meadows all sweetly divided and inclosed with rows of Trees so that I fancied I was in Lombardy again but with this advantage that here all was not of apiece as it is in Lombardy but the Hills as they made a pleasant inequality in the prospect so they made the Air purer and produced a pleasant Wine The way near Darmstat and all forwards to Frankfort becometh more wild and more sandy There is a good Suburb on the South-side of the Main over against Frankfort which hath a very considerable Fortification there is a double Wall and a double Dit●h that goeth round it and the outward Wall as it is regularly fortified so it is faced with Brick to a consi●erable height The Town of Frankfort is of a great extent and seemed to be but about a third part less than S●rasburg The three Reli●ions are also tolerated there and tho the number of the Papists is very inconsiderable yet they have the great Church which is a huge rude building they have also several other Churches and some Co●ve●ts there There are several open Squares for Market places and the Houses about them look very well without Among their Archives they preserve the Original of the B●lla Aurea that which is shewed to Strangers is only a great Parchment writ in High Dutch but the Original is preserved with more Care and is in Latin yet since I made a short stay there I was not at the Pains of desiring to see it for that is not obtained without difficulty The Lutherans have here built a new Chur●h called St. Katherines in which there is as much painti●g as e●er I saw in any Popish Church and over the high Altar there is an huge carved Cru●ifix as there are painted ones in other places of their Church The Pulpit is extream fine of Marble of different co●ours very well polished and joyned I was here at Sermon where I understood nothing but I liked one th●ng that I saw both at Strasburg and here that at the end of Prayers there was a considerable interval of silence left before the conclusion for all peopl●s private Devotions In the House of their publick Discipline they retain still the old Roman Pistrina or H●nd-mill at which lewd Women are condemned to grind that is to drive about the Wheel that maketh the Milstones go There is a great number of Iews there tho their two Synagogues are very little and by consequence the Numbers being great they are very nasty I was told they were in all above twelve hundred The Women had the most of a tawdry Imbroidery of Gold and Silver about them that ever I saw for they had all Mantles of Crape and both about the top and the bottom there was a border above a hand breadth of Imbroid●ry The Fortification o● Frankfort is considerable ●heir Ditch is very b●oad and very full of Water all the Ba●●ions have a Countermine that runneth along by the brim of the Ditch but the Counterscarp is not faced with Brick as the Walls are and so in many places it is i● an ill condition the covered Way and Glacy are also in an ill case The Town is rich and driveth a great Trade and is very pleasantly scituated No● far from hence is Hockam that yieldeth the best Wine of those parts Since I took Frankfort in my way from Heidelb●rg to Mentz I could not pass by Worms for which I was sorry I had a great mind to see that place where Luther made his first appearance before the Empe●our and the Diet and in that solemn Audience express●d an undaunted Zeal for that Glorious Cause in which God made him such a blessed Instrument I had another piece of Curiosity on me which will perhaps appear to you somewhat ridiculous I had a mind to see a Pi●ture that as I was told is over one of the Popish Altar there which one would think was Invented by the Enemies of Transubstantiation to make it appear ridiculous There is a Windmill and the Vir●in throws Christ into the Hopp●r and he come● out at the Eye of the M●●n all in Waters which some Priests take up to give to the People This is so course an Emblem that one would think it too gross even for Lapland●rs but a man that can swallow Transubstantiation it self will digest this likewise Mentz is very nobly scituated on a rising ground a little below the conjunction of the two Rivers the Rhine and the Ma●n it is of too great a compass and too ill peopled ●o be capable of a great defence there is a Cittad●l upon the highest part of the Hill that commandeth the Town it is compassed about with a dry Ditch that is considerably deep The Walls of the Town are faced with Bri●k and regularly fortisied but the Counterscarp is not faced with Brick so all is in a sad condition and the Fortification is weakest on that side where the Elect●rs Palace is There is one side of a new Palace very nobly built in a regular Arch●tect●re only the Germans do still retain somewhat of the Gothick manner It is of a great length and the design is to build quite round the Co●rt and then it will be a very magnificent Pala●e only the Stone is red for all the Quarries that are upon the Rhi●e from Ba●il down to Co●lentz are of r●d stone which doth not look beautiful The Elec●or of Mentz is an absolute Prince his Subjects present Lists of their Magistrates to him but he is not tied to them and may name whom he will. The Ancient Demeasn of the Electorat is about ●orty thousand Crowns but the Taxes rise to about three hundred thousand Crowns so that the Subjects here are as heavily taxed as in the Palatinate The●e is twelve thousand Crowns a ye●r given the Elector for his privy Purse and the State bears the rest o● ●is whole expence It can Arm ten thousand Men and ●here is a Garrison of two thousand Men in Mentz this Elect●r hath three Coun●ils one he is Ch●●c●llour of the Empire consisting of three persons The other two are for the Policy and Iusti●e of his Principality He and ●is Chapter have Months by turns for the Nomination of the Prebends In the Month of Ianuary he names if any dyes and they chuse in the Room of such as dye in Fe●ruary and so all the year round The Pre●endaries or Dome-Heers have about three thousand Crowns a year a●iece When the E●ector dieth the Emperor sende●h one ●o see the Election made and he recommendeth one but ●he Can●ns may chuse whom