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A49620 The voyage of Italy, or, A compleat journey through Italy in two parts : with the characters of the people, and the description of the chief towns, churches, monasteries, tombs, libraries, pallaces, villas, gardens, pictures, statues, and antiquities : as also of the interest, government, riches, force, &c. of all the princes : with instructions concerning travel / by Richard Lassels, Gent. who travelled through Italy five times as tutor to several of the English nobility and gentry ; never before extant. Lassels, Richard, 1603?-1668.; S. W. (Simon Wilson) 1670 (1670) Wing L465; ESTC R2418 265,097 737

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a hundred and thirty Bishops called by Nicolas the III with three great Saints S. Bernardin reformer of the Minorits S. Katharine the holy Virgin and Beatus Colombanus Institutor of the Order of the Iesuati a man of great learning and Sanctity with fiue good Popes to wit Alexander the III of the house of Bandinelli Pius II of the house of Piccolomini Paulus V of the house of Burgesi and Alander the VII of the house of Chisi And in fine it hath furnished the world with two champions in learning Ambrosius Politi or Catharinus who wrote learnedly against Luther and Erasmus and Adriano Politi who wrote against Ignorance by his learned Dictionary He that would know in particular the history of Siena let him read Orlando Maleuolto From Siena we went to Bon Conuento Tornieri San Quirico inconsiderable places vpon the rode and so to Radicofino a strong Castle vpon a high hill built by Desiderius King of the Longobards This is the last place of the Florentin state but not the least in strength Dineing here at the Great Dukes Inn at the bottom of the hill we went to lodge at Aquapendente which is some 12 miles off and the first towne of the Popes state This towne stands vpon a hill from which the waters trickling downe softly are sayd to hang there and giue it the name of Aquapendente Of late this towne is made a Bishops Seate by the Demolition of Castro and the remooual of the Bishops Seat from thence hither which happened vpon this occasion Castro was a towne belonging to the Duke of Parma Thither Pope Innocent the X. sent a good Bishop to gouerne that flock but the Bishop vpon his arriual being killed there the Pope sent Conte Vidman General then of the Church with order to demolish Castro and he himself transfered the Bishops seat from thence to Aquapendente and all this according to the Canon law which ordains that that Citie which kills its Bishop should be depriued of the Bishops seat euer after From Aquapendente we came to a little towne called San Lorenzo and not long after to Bolsena anciently called Vrbs Volsinensium Here it was that happened the famous Miracle in confirmation of the Real presence of Christs body and blood in the Blessed Sacrament which happened an 1263 and which gaue occasion to Pope Vrban the IV to command that the Feast of Corpus Christi should be kept holyday euer after The Miracle is related by Leandro Alberti the Camden of Italy and by learned Onuphrius Panuinus in the life of Vrban the IV. We passed also that morning by the side of the Lake of Bolsena in the midle of which is a little Iland in which Amalasuinta Queen of the Ostrogoths a woman of singular parts was miserably murthered by her nearest kinred Here 's also a little Conuent of Capucins Hauing passed along this Lake a great while we entered at last into a wood called anciently Lucus Volsinensium and now Bosco Helerno It was formerly a dangerous passage for Bandits but now its free from danger since Sixtus Quintus purged the Ecclesiastical State of that Vermin by makeing a Law that whosoeuer should bring in the head of a Bandit should haue pardon impunity recompence too of some hundred crownes wher vpon the Bandits soone destroyed one another From this wood we soone came to Montefiascone standing vpon a hill It s a Bishops Seat and famous for excellent Muscatello wine and this wine is famous for hauing killed a Dutchman here who drunk too much of it The story is true and thus A Dutchman of cōdition traueling through Italy sent his man before him alwayes with a charge to looke out in the Inns were the best Wine was there write vpon the Wall of the Inn the word EST that is to say Here it is The seruant comeing hither a little before his Master and finding the wine excellently good wrote vpon the Wall EST EST EST signifying thereby the superlatiue goodness of this wine The Master arriues lookes for his Mans hand-writing and finding three ESTS is ouer ioyed In he goes and resolues to lye there and he did so indeed for here he lyes still buryed first in wine and then in his graue For drinking too much of this good wine he dyed here and was buryed by his seruant in a Church here below the Hill with this Epitaph vpon his Tombe made by the same seruant Propter EST EST EST herus meus mortuus est It was here also that the gallantry of the braue Roman General Camillus appeared very much For while he was besieging this towne called then P●aliscum or Phalerii a treacherous schoolmaster hauing brought vnto him the chief of the yong youths of the towne whom he had deceitfully drawne vnto the Roman Camp vnder pretence of takeing the ayre a broad by which means Camillus might haue frighted their Parents to an vnworthy rendition the braue Roman who scorned to ouercome by any other way then that of Gallantry caused the schoole master to bee stripped his hands to be tyed behind his back and to be led into the towne againe with the little youths whipping him as he went till he had brought them home againe This nobleness of Camillus tooke the towne presently because it tooke with the townesmen who admireing the Romans Generosity submitted willingly to Camillus who had chosen rather to take towns By this owne Valour then by other mens iniquity Indeed as Valerius Maximus sayth it did not become Rome built by the sonn of Mars to take towns otherwise then Martially From Montesiascone we went downe the Hill by an easie descent vnto Viterbo This is an Episcopal Seat standing in a wholesome ayre and therefore called Viterbium as it where Vita Vrbium Here are excellent fountains of water and store of them but its pitty none of them runn with good wine to make a mends for the bad which are most of them Vini cotti The two factions here of the Gatti the Maganesi these standing for the Vrsini those for the Colonnesi ruined heretofore Viterbo ouer ouer againe In the Domo there are the tombes of 4 Popes as also in the Franciscans Church some tombes of Popes and of S. Rosa you see the body of that Saint yet entire though buryed aboue 100 years ago She lyes along in her tombe and is seen by the drawing of a curtain from before her Here 's an Academy of wits called Gli Ostinati to shew perchance that a man cannot be learned without obstinate labour and paynes Hence the Poët makes his learned man to be one who multum sudauit alsit and Persius tells vs that his delight was to grow pale with obstinate night study Velle suum cuique est c. At me nocturnis juuat impallescere chartis About a mile from Viterbo stands a neat Church and Conuent called Madonna del Querco and as farre
Creation that where Adam sowes that where the sheep drink that were Jacob saw the ladder that of the last Supper of Christ with his Apostles that where Moyses shews the Laws are all of the hand of Raphael Vrbin That of the Deluge of the adoration of the golden Calf are of the hand of Raphael dal Borgo That where Josue commands the Sun to stop that of Bersabee and the like are of the hand of Pierino del Vago That of the Chariot and some others are of the hand of Carauagio That of Moyses strikeing the Rock that of the iudgement of Salomon and some others are of the hand of Iulio Romano That of the Baptisme of Christ with other such like are of the hand of Pellegrino da Modena Yet because in all these pictures Raphael Vrbin giue either the designe or some touches this Gallery is called Raphaels Gallery indeed nothing but the diuine history it self can be finer then this painting of Diuine Raphael And it belongs onely to Rome to haue the Bible set out thus in its owne colours and if pictures be the best bookes for ignorant people who can say that the Bible is kept from the people here seing its painted and printed here in the most Vulgar tongue and knowne language pictures In a word Raphaels colours seemed to me to illustrate the text very much and to be an excellent Comment vpon the Holy scripture 7. From this gallery I was led into the great chamber where Constantins Victory ouer Maxentius is so rarely painted vpon the walls by Raphaels owne hand that this painting serues this chamber not onely for a rich Tapistry but also for an eternal Trophee to that Emperour The seueral postures here of men and horses all in confusion yet all in such due proportion make this picture in the judgement of Monsieur Poussin a famous painter the rarest thing in the world for designe In the other fellowing rooms there are diuers other rare peeces of the same hand as that of Attila and Pope Leo that of S. Peter in prison a peece much admired for the perspectiue of it That of the B. Sacrament that of the burning of the Borgo that of Aeneas carrying his Father Anchises out of the flames are of Raphaels hand The history of HoHeliodorus ouer the chimney is of the hand of Iulio Romano Raphaels scholler 8. Going vp from hence into the highest open gallerie you l finde it painted with Geographical Maps of the hand of Antonio da Varese The roof of it is also well painted by Pomerancio Paris Romano and Bronzini excellent painters all 9. Then comeing downe I saw the Sala Clamentina a noble roome The rare perspectiues in the roof and in one of the corners both of them expressing the armes of Clement the VIII are worth your attentiue consideration 10. Then the diuers Chambers of his Holyness hung all with Damask hangings in sommer and veluet hangings in winter are very neat In the Popes bed chamber I saw the graue picture of our Lady with her Sonne in her armes called Saint Mary Maior it s painted curiously vpon a white transparent stone three fingers thick and yet shewing the picture on both sides if held before the sun 11. The great roome guilt ouer-head where the Pope treats at dinner great Princes when they come to Rome 12. The old appartament of Pius Quintus with the great wodden bed or rather the little wodden chamber of Paulus Quintus 13. The rare peece of perspectiue ouer the dore of the long roome leading to the Gallery of Maps At the first looking vpon it you see nothing but certain types or figures of the Blessed Sacrament out of the old Testament but being placed directly vnder it and looking vpwards you see all the foresayd types contracted into the forme of a Calice and an hoast ouer it so shew that those old types and shadowes prefigured onely the body and blood of our Sauiour in the holy Sacrifice of the Altar 14. The long gallery of the Maps of Italy painted vpon the walls on both sides by Paulus Brillus a Flemming and others and that so distinctly that you see plainly euery State Prouince City Riuer Village Castle highway of Italy and where any famous battle was fought either in the Romans time or since A Gallery which I wish I had spent as many houres in as I spent dayes in going vp to Rome Diuers other Galleries there are in this house which I passe ouer in silence 14. But I cannot passe euer so the long Gallerie leading to the Beluedere in which is kept the Conclaue of all Popes in this one great roome fifty or thresecore Cardinals lodg and haue euery one two chambers one for himself and the other for his Conclauist Ex vngue Leonem you may judge by this what the whole house is or els by this what they assure you when they tell you that there are fiue thousand Chambers in that Pallace 15. From the middle of the foresayd Gallery you enter into the Vatican Library famous all the learned world ouer for hauing in it besides the Registers of the Roman Church the choycest manuscripts of rhe world in holy languages This Baronnius found who drew from hence notable succour for the maintaining of this Ecclesiasticall history against the Centuriators of Magdebourg who wanting these assured aymes and being otherwise wrongly biassed made faults in their history as many as their Centuries and as great as their Volumes The description of this Library hath been made by learned Angelus Rocca in Latin and by Mutius Pansa in Jtalian yet for the sactisfaction of my curious countrymen I shall say something of it First the roome is a vast long roome speading it self in the furter end into two wings of building which are all full of presses where the manuscripts are kept carefully from mice and rats and moist weather At the entrance into this Library you are let into a fair chamber full of desks for a dozen of writers who haue good stipends to copie out bookes in all languages and they are bound to be writeing so many houres in a morning Round-about this roome hang the Pictures of all the Cardinals that haue been Bibliothecarii since Sixtus Quintus his time Then entr●ng into the Library it self I saw the vast wide roome supported like a Church by great squar pillars about which are as many cupbord were the manuscripts are conserued On the wall on the right hand are painted in Fresco the General Councils of the Church with the Bible in the midst laying open vpon a stately throne and with the order and place of precedency obserued in them as also some notable accidents in Ecclesiastical history On the left hand are painted all the famous Libraryes anciently mentioned by authors and vpon the great pillars are painted the first Inuentors and promotors of learning This long roome spreads it self at last into two wings on
Maria Trasteuere the first Church built in Rome sayth Baronius and built there where anciently stood the Tabernae meritoriae where the maimed soldiers receiued their pittance dayly The Guilt roof and the two rowes of marble pillars do much beautify this Church Vnder the High Altar is yet seen the place where oyle yssued out as from a Fountain a little before our Sauiours birth as denounceing his birth to be at hand who was to be called Christus that is annointed In this Church lye buryed Cardinal Hosius a most learned Trent Father and Cardinal Campegius the Popes Legate in England in Henry the VIII time You see here the stone that was tyed about the neck of S. Calixtus Pope when he was throwne into a Well Here also you see great round stones which where hung at the fee● of the Martyrs to torment them The Conuent of Franciscan Fryer● called S. Francesco in Ripa Grand● is hard by where I saw the Chamber where great S. Francis lodged when he liued in Rome It s now turned into a Chappel In the Church there is an excellent picture of Piety made by Caraccio Here in the Church is the tombe of Beata Ludouica Mathei of the the third order of S. Francis I tooke the Ripa grande in my way and saw there the boates of marchandise which come to Rome from Ligorne Giuità Vechia Naples and other places and disembark their goods here From the Ripa I went to S. Cicilies Church built where her house was and where she was put to death for the Christian religion Vnder the High Altar of this Church is the tombe of this primitiue Saint with her statue in a couchant posture and iust as her body was found in Clement the VIII time wrapt vp in vayls stayned with blood and couered with a robe of gold The neat decoration before the High Altar with the syluer lamps burning before the Tombe of this Saint was the foundation of Cardinal Sfondrati At the end of this Church as you come in are seen yet the stoues in which S. Cicily was shut vp in her owne house to be stifled but that failing she was beheaded The stoues are yet entire and shewing the manner of the ancient stoues In the Church portch I found the Tombe of one Adam an English Bishop of London and Cardinal of this tittle who dyed in Rome an 1397. it hath these verses vpon it Artibus iste pater famosus in omnibus Adam Theologus summus Cardinalisque erat Anglia cui patriam titulum dedit ista Beatae Aedes Caeciliae morsque suprema Polum Not farre from this Church stands S. Chrysogonus his Church a neat Church repayred some yeares ago by Cardinal Burghesi The four pillars of the High Altar looke as if they were of sand and cristal petrifyed together On the left hand of the wall neare the great dore lyes buryed Robert Archbishop of York and titular of this Church but this was all I could learne out of the Tombstone Hauing thus wandered ouer the Trasteuere I made towards the I le of S. Bartholomew in which stands a good Hospital and a Conuent of Franciscans in whose Church reposeth vnder the High Altar in a faire porphyrie Tombe the body of S. Bartholmew Apostle This Ile was anciently called Insula Tiberina and it was first made by the corne of Tarquinius Superbus which being after his ejection out of the City pluckt vp by the rootes and throwne into the riuer by reason of the quantity of earth that stuck to the rootes stopped here where the water was low and this stoppage once begun all the mud of the riuer came afterwards to stop here too and so in time to forme a little I le in the midst of the riuer Going out of the I le by the bridge of four heads anciently called Pons Fabricius which ioynes this I le with the City I looked downe the riuer on my right hand to see the Pons Sublicius which Cocles alone defended against an army till the bridge was cut downe behind him which he perceiuing leapt into the riuer armed and swome safe to his fellow Citizens who were as glad to see him come off safe as to finde themselues safe It was called Pons Sublicius from the word Sublica in Latin which signifies great beams of wood of which it was made it was afterwards built of stone by Aemilius From this bridge the wicked Emperor Heliogabalus was throwne into the riuer and drowned with a great stone about his neck No sooner was I ouer this bridge but I saw on my left hand the great back dore of the Jewry for here the Iews liue all together in a corner of the towne and are locked vp euery night I entred into their Synagogues here which they call their schooles where they meet vpon Saturdays and sing and pray I wondered at first that they had learned no more manners in these their schooles then to enter into them to pray without either puting of hats lifting vp eyes or bending of knees to the Great Iehoua whom they rather feare then loue Moses going to him put of this shooes and I expected that these men should at least haue put of their hatts at the entrance into their Synagogues but they are Archclownes and their fowle towels at the entrance into their Synagogues told me as much I once saw a circumcision but it was so painfull to the child that it was able to make a man heartily thank God that he is a Christian And realy If the little child could speak and wish I beleeue he would wish him selfe the greatest curse in the world and to be a woman rather then a man vpon such termes I saw also a marriage here performed with many ceremonyes Returning out of the Jewry by the same gate I entred I saw on my left hand the Pallace of Princ Sauelli its built vpon the ruines of the Theater of Marcellus built by Augustus in honour of his Nephew Marcellus it was capable of fourscore thousand men Passing on I came to an ancient Church called Santa Maria in Cosmedin or in Schola Graeca where S. Austin before his conuersion taught Rhetorick In the portch of this Church stands a great round stone cut into the face of a man with a great wide mouth commonly called La bocca della Verità The mouth of Truth but this not being affirmed by the Mouth of truth I dare not beleeue it I rather beleeue it serued in some old building for a gutter spout I know truth may speake lowd and haue a wide mouth but he that takes euery wide mouth for the mouth of Truth is much mistaken The next Church I came to was Santa Maria Egyptiaca it was the Temple of the Sun and Iupiter This Church is neatly adorned with curious chanelled pillars It belongs to the Armenians who haue an Hospital also here